That’s good feedback to hear thank you, we have little things we want to improve but think this could allow us to get back to weekly posting along with our normal videos
Straight to the point videos are always appreciated but there's still a lot of stuff in this video that's unrelated to brake squeal. You don't need to bleed the brakes, torque the rotors, adjust the levers, or grease the pistons. Those are different things that you'd cover as part of a full brake service but unrelated to the squealing. All you actually need to to do stop squealing is sand and clean the rotors, and replace pads if they're contaminated with oil. That's it - nothing else.
Thanks Lee. This video is timely for me. I had the fluid changed recently and my brakes are squealing like crazy. I’m excited to try your methods and fix my brakes. Best to you!
I had the absolute worst brake squeal with a set of Shimano 105s on my road bike-so bad it could wake the dead. My local bike shop couldn't fix it (they can normally fix anything), and resurfacing the rotors and replacing the pads, as shown in this video, did not fix the issue for me. I was finally put out of my misery when someone broke into my garage and nicked my bike, so now it's someone else's problem!
@@statom985I came here to write a similar message. I was going to say, when you are dead, I am sure that bike will come by the cemetery and wake you up, then you can get your bike back.
This is what works for me: Make sure you clean the inside of the brake caliper as well, and that it isn't leaking brake oil onto the pads. Then, a good trick is to clean the pads with dish soap/washing up liquid, then sand them with 240 grit sandpaper (make sure to only rub the pad once on the sandpaper - meaning not rubbing it on an area of sandpaper you have already rubbed it on - this can recontaminate the pad). Finally, clean the pads with dish soap again before reinstalling. For the disc, rub it with brake cleaner first, then sand with 240 grit sandpaper, then brake cleaner again. Don't forget to bed in the brakes before riding again. If you experience repeated problems, ask a good bike mechanic to check if the disc and brake caliper are well aligned. If not, he/she can face the brake mounts to take this source of the problem out. If it still persists, try burning the discs to take out contamination. If none of this works, you might need to replace both discs and pads, even though it feels like such a waste.
This works well, but I've found that a 3M metal finishing pad works even better and doesn't remove pad material. I cut them into small, single-use squares, and they're pennies per square. It takes about 15 seconds of scrubbing per pad. 95% of the time that is enough. However, if the pads are really fouled, I soak the pads in boiling water and dish washing liquid for five minutes, and it seems to work a little better . I've never had a pad so fouled that these techniques didn't work.
Sandpaper is a bad idea because it sheds bits and these get stuck in the pads - you want to use the emery cloth. Other than that I would just emerge everything in brake cleaner, let it work its magic and then clean everything (rubbing pad against pad without emery cloth does wonders too).
@@mcplutt he applied it all the way to the edge of the pad, the grease will end up on disc and on braking surface when you insert/remove the wheel since you'll never be able to put the wheel in perfectly straight when installing, especially the rear wheel when you also need to deal with the derailleur and chain.
Squealing disc brakes annoy the hell out of me and it is pretty embarrassing when your bike screams every time you brake down a long, steep, technical descent. As you showed the fix is very easy and gives super-satisfying results
This channel gave me so much confidence on being able to service and change components on my own road bike. I'd quite like to see a video on Front and Rear Derailleur setup in depth, I recent had to change my crank, and the front derailleur needed adjusting, I conceded defeat in the end and took to a local bike shop to get it adjusted.
Very helpful. I have a short bike commute to work but my Boardman CX has screaming discs randomly and it's always one of those 'must get that sorted...at some point' tasks. Will have a close look at the discs and pads and see how confident I feel about tackling it myself
Great video! I brought my GF’s new bike home from the shop yesterday - I took the front wheel off for ease of transport, and then had to spend 1 hour resetting and then recentering the brakes - the brakes had closed in making it impossible to put the tyre back on. ‘Twas a lot of work to sort, but satisfying - and a relief - to get everything back in order. Was interested in watch an absolute pro at work. Seems that disc brakes are a LOT more work than rims.
you do need to clean the pads regularly - but the slightest bit of rain will bring back the squeal. Never needed to sand the rotor - only need to clean them. Have found that drying the pads after cleaning makes a difference - put mine in the airing cupboard for an hour or so. Basically, these pads are high maintenance as they are open to all the elements - if you are on the road then all the oils and rubbish on the road will find their way into them.
Good work solving the problem. I never managed to get get the squeal out of my rear disc brake and I thought it was due to oil from the chain splattering onto the rear disc brake. I did manage to fix the front disc brake squeal by installing a disc brake pad compound carbon ceramics. Carbon ceramics does rub up the surface of the disc brake anyway.
I just bought a bike from a colleague at work which has squeaky breaks. I was not looking for this video but it was on my feed, which is strange. Anyway, you've made this look really easy. I now have the confidence to go ahead and somehow mess this all up when I do it myself and my local bike mechanic can now make some money fixing my mistakes 🤣🤣😂😂
Awesome video from an awesome channel. Love your videos. Never any negativity or click baity annoyingness. Even if that's a word 😂😂 One thing though, should the new pads and renewed discs not need bedding in again? Short or long videos, keep them coming. Love your channel guys. ❤ And that orange Trek. What a beautiful colour.
Discs in general don’t need bedding in as much as most people thing but some cases can so it really depends on your personal results. Thanks for your kind support🧡⚙️
I enjoyed the content of this one! I’m looking forward to more! I’ve always wondered why we have the front and rear brake handles switched over here in the USA. Watching you brake through me off a bit at first haha
Actually it's only in the UK that the brakes are set this way - the front is the right hand and the rear the left hand. In the rest of the world it's the other way around.
A little off the subject but I have a KTM motor cycle with disc brakes and I can get a good impression of a HGV with the rear brake. Its a matter of getting the natural frequency of the disc and the brake pressure just right so the whole assembly squeals loudly. Eventually the brake disc will crack due to induced natural frequency being hit regularly.
Hello Lee, why complain about the sound 😂 Everyone gets out of your way 😂😂 Thanks for the advice and my evening entertainment. Greetings to the UK and I will be here next week again. 👍🌞😘🍀
Those brakes sound like one of those dodgy vids 'from the group chat' that you accidently open in the middle of Sainsburys 🤣 Great video, really appreciate the expertise 👍
I recently bought a new Giant Defy Ultegra throughout. I couldnt get either end to stop screeching, pads out disc brake cleaned, rotors and pads both wet and dried. Thought I'd solved it, NOT. Even after a thorough bedding in the front was screeching again today!. Checked pads today, both glazed again and front pads had noticable chunks missing! Now changed pads for Noah &Theo. I'm hoping that they now might bed in! If not going to dab a bit of copper grease on pad rears to avoid resonance!
I have four pot brakes on my bikes and have found its worth checking they are all moving as they should. One set in particular had one very active and one very sluggish piston.
@claudiofiero8523 There's a Park tool video on how to clean brake pistons. Right at the end, after lubricating and exercising the pistons they mention balancing the caliper between active & slow pistons. Same goes for 4-pot ones, it's just super fiddly trying to get everything balanced. I nearly threw a set out in frustration.
I found that if you continue to have noise most likely it is a slow leak of brake fluid containing the pads, usually where the 2 half's of the caliper seal, which causes it to glaze the pad and disk. My go-to method instead of chemicals is heat. 20-30 seconds with a propane or butane torch with pads sitting on a brick will burn off any oils, too long and you will overheat the glue used to bond the pad. A light scuff on the rotors, and if the pad is glossy a light scuff of the pad with sand paper. Been doing it for years works every time, chemicals don't get the oils out of the pad and the noise comes back.
@@Bikespeeds with all your experience Lee, how about a work out what's creaking video? To help people identify noises and what might be the cause. Would be really useful for so many
I never thought it was the rotor score. I was more suspicious of the road grime. And I also thought it's important to clean both the rotor and the pads at the same time, vs. try the pads then the rotor, when you end up contaminating the other. I've accepted that emery cloth on the pads is part of routine maintenance, and checking for a caliper leak on the backing plates. I've had success with baking parts in the oven like a pizza with good results, but it takes more effort, I just use it for extreme contamination. Rotating the wheel while pinching the rotor is what I've frequently done, but you've inspired my to try for perfection. Maybe it is like a record player, and those grooves are playing a tune? We'll see. Couldn't hurt. I like the idea.
I worked at a bike shop before and I had a customer with brakes that squealed, so he decided to put some lube on the rotors. It certainly stopped the Squealing and the braking. Needed new rotors and pads.
I had the same on my bike front only took the rotor of sand it down clean pads etc good to go for one ride then it came back so changed rotor and done away with resin pads And it has been perfect since then
Remove pads, wire brush, spray IPA and wipe. If you feel like Gordon Ramsey, give them a super quick going over with a blow torch to burn off anymore contamination. Same for discs but no need to brush. Works like a charm and no need to be sanding either
We often get calls from people that have had brakes in shops and the squealing comes back relatively quickly. The biggest issue with modern brakes tends to be earther they are leaking or the bike is not being maintained correctly. Modern brakes are super light and do tend to pick up damage. Things like improper cleaning or getting carried away with oils are also common culprit for squealing brakes. Incidentally Copper grease is not the best idea and I know a few rands that will tell you absolutely do not use it. They will also tell you not to use most commensal brake cleaners as they can contain chemicals knows to give issues.
Using a random brake cleaner directly on calipers is a great way to dry out your seals prematurely to the point of cracking in the near future. Won't ruin them instantly as it evaporates rather quickly but when it will you won't even remember the cause. Brake cleaner formula is not standard and varies greatly (and is different compared to carburetor cleaner as well), so does rubber, plastic and paint compatibility. There usually is a warning right on the can, or at least a guidance to test it yourself before use on each material other than bare metal. Electrical contact cleaner is usually recommended instead.
Something to mention is that metallic pads squeal easily and squeal a lot. Semi metallic and organic generally don't squeal in my use case. I prefer semi metallic because I feel it performs better than organic with cable brakes
I've found that none of those causes are the reason for squealing brakes. The pads where the real problem. The image of the pads tell the story. They has a lip of raised pad that was not making contact with the disk. Those lips come together and stop the pad from making full pressure contact with the disk, much like when you lightly run run your finger around the rim of a wine glass. You set up a slight vibration that feeds into a resonance. On friends that have had squeaky brakes I've simply scraped off the lip and instantly the squealing brakes are no more. The same occurs if you fitt new pads. I have come across one instance where the dis didn't have the same torque on all six screws half were less that half the torque on 3 or 4 screws. This also allowed the disc to resonate, setting them to the same torque solved that problem.
I enjoy these Video's even though I have done many bike repairs and services. I would like to see a more in-depth look at Di2 servicing and software updating as I have no experience of electronic gear shifting. Many thanks.
My Avid brakes squealed like hell, regardless of cleaning or type of pads. Last three bike had , Shimano Deore,XT and SLX with either organic or sintered pads and very little to no noise at all, except in the wet but not really annoying.
@@OurnameisLegion66 that's dictated by the placement of the clutch which has to be on the left, otherwise you'd have to operate the throttle and clutch with one hand at the same time...
Can you use brake cleaner for cars it says it's non-chlorinated?? And since nobody talks about this what grit of sandpaper do you recommend for the rotor and the pads??
If they are brand new and loud, they weren’t bedded-in properly. You may be able to bed them in if they are still new enough. Plenty of videos on how to do a good bedding. Once the brakes “bite” silently, they are ready.
Thank you for the video Curious, when you were showing how to sand the rotor down to remove the grooves did you take the rotor out or spin it around so that you could sand the other side? The other issue was that you were refilling the brake mineral oil but the top new one was green and the old one was golden in color, would you not have pushed through fully by allowing the new green oil to fully replace the golden one? Thank you
Great video! Weird question: if a bike gets these scoremarks on the disc and lets say its a fairly new bike, will the repair be covered by warranty if i get it repaired at the bikeshop i bought it at? or is it a "usual" wear on the disc?
Yeah, yeah! Been there done that, many, many times! The noise is back within hours or days - unless you replace the pads and maybe the rotors too. Tektro has the worst brakes, linear or disc! Try Shimano....a lot less problems.
I always thought that one of the biggest selling points of these tiny discs over the far larger disc of a rim was that they could never squeal. The only reason that I would use these is if I was still riding sew ups.
Thank you for the video. Could it be the brake rotor alone that would cause squeaks? I have changed my brake pads and clean the rotor with brake cleaner and I still get squeaking mostly when I pulled the brake levers hard
I find that you just never contaminate your brake pads with cleaners. I don't do this even on my motorcycles, on my mountain bikes I pull the pads out and wash them out with acetone. When you do this do not scrub or clean your rotors, you do not want to remove the beded in in brake pad material, this is the same on motorcycles. Obviously in this video somebody did not keep an eye on their brakes. I have found that sometimes when a brake pad gets contaminated there's no fixing it and you just got to replace them. Mountain bike brakes are way harder to maintain than motorcycle and they will always make more noise. This is the biggest maintenance issue on mountain bikes next would be keeping the chain and your gears clean.
I really would not use brake cleaner without gloves and if you do it regularly, without ventilation. Not sure if stuff used with bikes is a bad as the ones with cars, but...
I'm liking this format of video gets straight to the point and short enough to watch without fast forwarding.
That’s good feedback to hear thank you, we have little things we want to improve but think this could allow us to get back to weekly posting along with our normal videos
Straight to the point videos are always appreciated but there's still a lot of stuff in this video that's unrelated to brake squeal. You don't need to bleed the brakes, torque the rotors, adjust the levers, or grease the pistons. Those are different things that you'd cover as part of a full brake service but unrelated to the squealing. All you actually need to to do stop squealing is sand and clean the rotors, and replace pads if they're contaminated with oil. That's it - nothing else.
Straight to the point?!? Almost a full minute of squeaky brake noises at the start!
Thanks Lee. This video is timely for me. I had the fluid changed recently and my brakes are squealing like crazy. I’m excited to try your methods and fix my brakes. Best to you!
I had the absolute worst brake squeal with a set of Shimano 105s on my road bike-so bad it could wake the dead. My local bike shop couldn't fix it (they can normally fix anything), and resurfacing the rotors and replacing the pads, as shown in this video, did not fix the issue for me. I was finally put out of my misery when someone broke into my garage and nicked my bike, so now it's someone else's problem!
😂
sooooo, look for the squeaking bike and it might be yours
@@statom985I came here to write a similar message. I was going to say, when you are dead, I am sure that bike will come by the cemetery and wake you up, then you can get your bike back.
Funny ha ha or are you funny peculiar? Not helpful at all
@@davidpayne8413 Check your pulse, dude!
This is what works for me:
Make sure you clean the inside of the brake caliper as well, and that it isn't leaking brake oil onto the pads. Then, a good trick is to clean the pads with dish soap/washing up liquid, then sand them with 240 grit sandpaper (make sure to only rub the pad once on the sandpaper - meaning not rubbing it on an area of sandpaper you have already rubbed it on - this can recontaminate the pad). Finally, clean the pads with dish soap again before reinstalling.
For the disc, rub it with brake cleaner first, then sand with 240 grit sandpaper, then brake cleaner again.
Don't forget to bed in the brakes before riding again.
If you experience repeated problems, ask a good bike mechanic to check if the disc and brake caliper are well aligned. If not, he/she can face the brake mounts to take this source of the problem out. If it still persists, try burning the discs to take out contamination.
If none of this works, you might need to replace both discs and pads, even though it feels like such a waste.
This works well, but I've found that a 3M metal finishing pad works even better and doesn't remove pad material. I cut them into small, single-use squares, and they're pennies per square. It takes about 15 seconds of scrubbing per pad. 95% of the time that is enough. However, if the pads are really fouled, I soak the pads in boiling water and dish washing liquid for five minutes, and it seems to work a little better . I've never had a pad so fouled that these techniques didn't work.
Sandpaper is a bad idea because it sheds bits and these get stuck in the pads - you want to use the emery cloth. Other than that I would just emerge everything in brake cleaner, let it work its magic and then clean everything (rubbing pad against pad without emery cloth does wonders too).
Sandpaper is okay to use if you use a finer grit like 240 on the pads and 400 on the rotor@@hughjanus7354
That copper grease on pads bro... what a great way to recontaminate discs and pads after you'd just finished degreasing them.
I really thought this feeble was debunked decades ago.
But otherwise the bloke was spot on.
Couldn’t agree more
So how would that contaminate anything?
@@mcpluttCooper is reactive to other metals, use a ceramic paste if needed.
@@mcplutt he applied it all the way to the edge of the pad, the grease will end up on disc and on braking surface when you insert/remove the wheel since you'll never be able to put the wheel in perfectly straight when installing, especially the rear wheel when you also need to deal with the derailleur and chain.
Squealing disc brakes annoy the hell out of me and it is pretty embarrassing when your bike screams every time you brake down a long, steep, technical descent. As you showed the fix is very easy and gives super-satisfying results
Hopefully it helps!🧡
MTX Red racing pads. Problem solved. Forever
Nice job as always, still on rim brakes myself so none of these problems !
Yawn
Rim Brake users are like vegans...they tell you theyre using rim brakes every chance they get 😂😂😂😂
@@TheJanvicgwaps got a bargain on my last bike, possibly because it was rim brakes.
@@groupocompacto it's just a comment, why are you getting triggered ?
Me too🧡
Really enjoy this straight to the point maintenance format with a load of tips, really helps us home mechanics out!
Thank for the kind feedback!🧡
This channel gave me so much confidence on being able to service and change components on my own road bike. I'd quite like to see a video on Front and Rear Derailleur setup in depth, I recent had to change my crank, and the front derailleur needed adjusting, I conceded defeat in the end and took to a local bike shop to get it adjusted.
Thanks for watching! We’ll bare it in mind 🧡
Very helpful. I have a short bike commute to work but my Boardman CX has screaming discs randomly and it's always one of those 'must get that sorted...at some point' tasks. Will have a close look at the discs and pads and see how confident I feel about tackling it myself
Lol! 🧡⚙️
Great video! I brought my GF’s new bike home from the shop yesterday - I took the front wheel off for ease of transport, and then had to spend 1 hour resetting and then recentering the brakes - the brakes had closed in making it impossible to put the tyre back on. ‘Twas a lot of work to sort, but satisfying - and a relief - to get everything back in order.
Was interested in watch an absolute pro at work.
Seems that disc brakes are a LOT more work than rims.
Good job! Sounds like you did the right thing🧡
When I've serviced my brakes, I also use IPA on cotton buds, and clean out all the disc holes... they hold loads of muck
I would put the whole rotor in the ultrasonic. And then brake cleaner.
Yes the holes are a good contamination point
Just smash the rotor with brake cleaner. Nobody has time to clean out 50000 holes individually 😂😂
What a waste of beer...
@@graymcmic1419 came here to say that. Thank you.
you do need to clean the pads regularly - but the slightest bit of rain will bring back the squeal. Never needed to sand the rotor - only need to clean them. Have found that drying the pads after cleaning makes a difference - put mine in the airing cupboard for an hour or so. Basically, these pads are high maintenance as they are open to all the elements - if you are on the road then all the oils and rubbish on the road will find their way into them.
Brakes that squeal like a stuck pig are much more effective than the polite 'ting' of a bell at scattering dawdling walkers!
I'm keeping the squeal.
Good work solving the problem. I never managed to get get the squeal out of my rear disc brake and I thought it was due to oil from the chain splattering onto the rear disc brake. I did manage to fix the front disc brake squeal by installing a disc brake pad compound carbon ceramics. Carbon ceramics does rub up the surface of the disc brake anyway.
Great video. Wish I have a bike shop near me that was so insightful and diligent. Cheers!
Thanks for watching!🧡
Glad he took my advice to bring it you lee , top job 👌
🧡💪🏼
@@Bikespeeds you've got another recommendation I've sent your way tomorrow with a cube stereo for a full service 👍
Great video, I followed your instructions to remedy the squealing issue on my gravel bike with great results!
Wow that’s great to hear!🧡
Excellent format. I've good squealing brakes on my Trek Neco so this just what I needed! Thankyou.
Good to hear! Hope this helped 🧡⚙️
I just bought a bike from a colleague at work which has squeaky breaks. I was not looking for this video but it was on my feed, which is strange. Anyway, you've made this look really easy. I now have the confidence to go ahead and somehow mess this all up when I do it myself and my local bike mechanic can now make some money fixing my mistakes 🤣🤣😂😂
Lol! Best of luck with them!🧡
Now my breaks are quiet, thanks for the tip 👍
Good to hear!🧡
This is the best Channel on RUclips 🎉. Thanks for al your work to help us at home to get better with bikes 🙏🙏
Really kind thank you!🧡⚙️
Awesome video from an awesome channel. Love your videos. Never any negativity or click baity annoyingness. Even if that's a word 😂😂
One thing though, should the new pads and renewed discs not need bedding in again?
Short or long videos, keep them coming. Love your channel guys. ❤
And that orange Trek. What a beautiful colour.
Discs in general don’t need bedding in as much as most people thing but some cases can so it really depends on your personal results. Thanks for your kind support🧡⚙️
Pretty anoying sound! Thanks for the tip, Lee! God bless.
Wasn’t fun to edit lol🧡
I enjoyed the content of this one! I’m looking forward to more! I’ve always wondered why we have the front and rear brake handles switched over here in the USA. Watching you brake through me off a bit at first haha
Actually it's only in the UK that the brakes are set this way - the front is the right hand and the rear the left hand. In the rest of the world it's the other way around.
A random UK thing!🧡
@@YavorM-Yash OZ and NZ too. Over there it's a legal requirement to have them setup incorrectly (trigger warning).
Amazing as always Bikespeeds 😁
Thanks very much Alex!🧡⚙️
A little off the subject but I have a KTM motor cycle with disc brakes and I can get a good impression of a HGV with the rear brake. Its a matter of getting the natural frequency of the disc and the brake pressure just right so the whole assembly squeals loudly. Eventually the brake disc will crack due to induced natural frequency being hit regularly.
Hello Lee, why complain about the sound 😂 Everyone gets out of your way 😂😂 Thanks for the advice and my evening entertainment. Greetings to the UK and I will be here next week again. 👍🌞😘🍀
Thanks Maik! Lol🧡
Those brakes sound like one of those dodgy vids 'from the group chat' that you accidently open in the middle of Sainsburys 🤣 Great video, really appreciate the expertise 👍
Lol!🧡
I recently bought a new Giant Defy Ultegra throughout. I couldnt get either end to stop screeching, pads out disc brake cleaned, rotors and pads both wet and dried. Thought I'd solved it, NOT. Even after a thorough bedding in the front was screeching again today!. Checked pads today, both glazed again and front pads had noticable chunks missing! Now changed pads for Noah &Theo. I'm hoping that they now might bed in! If not going to dab a bit of copper grease on pad rears to avoid resonance!
How did it go?🧡
I have four pot brakes on my bikes and have found its worth checking they are all moving as they should. One set in particular had one very active and one very sluggish piston.
Hi, how did you solve this one? The inner piston of my rear brake moves a bit less than the outer one, even after a bike mechanic tuneup
@claudiofiero8523 There's a Park tool video on how to clean brake pistons. Right at the end, after lubricating and exercising the pistons they mention balancing the caliper between active & slow pistons. Same goes for 4-pot ones, it's just super fiddly trying to get everything balanced. I nearly threw a set out in frustration.
I found that if you continue to have noise most likely it is a slow leak of brake fluid containing the pads, usually where the 2 half's of the caliper seal, which causes it to glaze the pad and disk. My go-to method instead of chemicals is heat. 20-30 seconds with a propane or butane torch with pads sitting on a brick will burn off any oils, too long and you will overheat the glue used to bond the pad. A light scuff on the rotors, and if the pad is glossy a light scuff of the pad with sand paper. Been doing it for years works every time, chemicals don't get the oils out of the pad and the noise comes back.
This is the right way to do it 👌
Get that squeek out, nice work and some great tips to get rid of the noise. Liking the mix of the content
Thanks, more of everything coming!🧡
@@Bikespeeds with all your experience Lee, how about a work out what's creaking video? To help people identify noises and what might be the cause. Would be really useful for so many
I never thought it was the rotor score. I was more suspicious of the road grime. And I also thought it's important to clean both the rotor and the pads at the same time, vs. try the pads then the rotor, when you end up contaminating the other. I've accepted that emery cloth on the pads is part of routine maintenance, and checking for a caliper leak on the backing plates. I've had success with baking parts in the oven like a pizza with good results, but it takes more effort, I just use it for extreme contamination. Rotating the wheel while pinching the rotor is what I've frequently done, but you've inspired my to try for perfection. Maybe it is like a record player, and those grooves are playing a tune? We'll see. Couldn't hurt. I like the idea.
Has a vintage rider lol I’m loving the channel looking forward to your other content 👍👌
We do have more vintage bikes on the way but find a bike rough but not ruined locally is not super common!🧡⚙️
@@Bikespeeds 👍👌
I believe this is the first video of yours I've ever watched where you didn't align the tire logo with the valve stem!! LOL!!
This is an example of our “day to day” work where a customer just wants a problem solved and we solve it🧡
Great video. I use piece of tape on backside of brake pad to inhibit rust.
Sandpaper disc on a cordless drill works a treat for re-surfacing the rotor
I bought a pair of Clark’s-Clout disc brakes and they just squill all the time, so thanks for the advice I’m going to sort it out tomorrow 😁👍
Hopefully this helped!🧡
I worked at a bike shop before and I had a customer with brakes that squealed, so he decided to put some lube on the rotors. It certainly stopped the Squealing and the braking. Needed new rotors and pads.
Lol!🧡⚙️
😂😂😂😂😂😂
Always learning from your videos cheers
Thanks as always!🧡
Yes, greasing pads did stop squealing and stopped stopping
Excellent video. Thanx
And after all that you will need to bed the pads in to get some pad material on the rotors.
Then they squeel again
Not if you bed the pads in correctly
I had the same on my bike front only took the rotor of sand it down clean pads etc good to go for one ride then it came back so changed rotor and done away with resin pads
And it has been perfect since then
Good, clear
Great video.
Would you not quickly loosen, re-centre and tighten the calipers whilst the bike was on the stand?
We actually did and it was the one thing we chose not to film lol🧡⚙️
YOU DA MAN!!!
Love it, now I finally understand!
Thanks for watching Andy!🧡⚙️
Great video - what grade emery paper would you use for the discs?
120 Grit🧡⚙️
Excellent job Lee
Thanks for your support Darren!🧡
Remove pads, wire brush, spray IPA and wipe. If you feel like Gordon Ramsey, give them a super quick going over with a blow torch to burn off anymore contamination. Same for discs but no need to brush. Works like a charm and no need to be sanding either
We often get calls from people that have had brakes in shops and the squealing comes back relatively quickly. The biggest issue with modern brakes tends to be earther they are leaking or the bike is not being maintained correctly. Modern brakes are super light and do tend to pick up damage. Things like improper cleaning or getting carried away with oils are also common culprit for squealing brakes. Incidentally Copper grease is not the best idea and I know a few rands that will tell you absolutely do not use it. They will also tell you not to use most commensal brake cleaners as they can contain chemicals knows to give issues.
great info, great presentation!
one note for the editor: the sibilance is pretty extreme. might need to filter the audio in future videos.
Noted thank you!🧡
Using a random brake cleaner directly on calipers is a great way to dry out your seals prematurely to the point of cracking in the near future.
Won't ruin them instantly as it evaporates rather quickly but when it will you won't even remember the cause.
Brake cleaner formula is not standard and varies greatly (and is different compared to carburetor cleaner as well), so does rubber, plastic and paint compatibility.
There usually is a warning right on the can, or at least a guidance to test it yourself before use on each material other than bare metal. Electrical contact cleaner is usually recommended instead.
Something to mention is that metallic pads squeal easily and squeal a lot. Semi metallic and organic generally don't squeal in my use case. I prefer semi metallic because I feel it performs better than organic with cable brakes
Good job 👍
Thank you!🧡
I've found that none of those causes are the reason for squealing brakes.
The pads where the real problem. The image of the pads tell the story. They has a lip of raised pad that was not making contact with the disk. Those lips come together and stop the pad from making full pressure contact with the disk, much like when you lightly run run your finger around the rim of a wine glass. You set up a slight vibration that feeds into a resonance.
On friends that have had squeaky brakes I've simply scraped off the lip and instantly the squealing brakes are no more. The same occurs if you fitt new pads.
I have come across one instance where the dis didn't have the same torque on all six screws half were less that half the torque on 3 or 4 screws. This also allowed the disc to resonate, setting them to the same torque solved that problem.
I enjoy these Video's even though I have done many bike repairs and services. I would like to see a more in-depth look at Di2 servicing and software updating as I have no experience of electronic gear shifting. Many thanks.
We’ll bare it in mind! Thanks for watching!🧡⚙️
Shouldnt use emery cloth, 240 grit sand paper is what is recognised and recommended.
My Avid brakes squealed like hell, regardless of cleaning or type of pads. Last three bike had , Shimano Deore,XT and SLX with either organic or sintered pads and very little to no noise at all, except in the wet but not really annoying.
People have said that a lot in the comments about avid!🧡⚙️
Nice and Elegant job :)
Thank you🧡
Maybe I missed it, but checking if the calipers were centered and I don't know if you guys used a "bed-in" machine? We have at our local bike shop.
What grade of emery cloth do you use, ie how fine/coarse?
We use 120🧡⚙️
Great informative video. Do you need to "bed" the new pads in? Thanks, Dave
Yes. Because the rotors have been sanded you have to treat them like they are brand new.
Depends on the bike entirely, some do some don’t it’s luck of the draw 🧡
Very good video.
Thanks very much!🧡⚙️
Great job-- also, in America, rear brakes are always on the right . First time I’ve seen rear in the left.
Opposite way round in the UK! Don’t go over the bars! 😂
America and majority of the world... Whatever you do try not to argue about which is right and which is wrong.
Motorcycles also have the front brake on the right.
@@OurnameisLegion66 that's dictated by the placement of the clutch which has to be on the left, otherwise you'd have to operate the throttle and clutch with one hand at the same time...
Hi ,very nice video,,which grit sand paper you used ?
120 Grit🧡⚙️
Can you use brake cleaner for cars it says it's non-chlorinated?? And since nobody talks about this what grit of sandpaper do you recommend for the rotor and the pads??
Very good!
Mine are brand new, the whole bike. Loud AF.
Same
If they are brand new and loud, they weren’t bedded-in properly. You may be able to bed them in if they are still new enough. Plenty of videos on how to do a good bedding. Once the brakes “bite” silently, they are ready.
Since the rotors were cleaned and new pads were installed would you have to bed everything in again?
Yes.
What grit sandpaper? I switched to wax on the chain but I live in Southern California and don't ride rain so that might not be best where you are.
120 Grit!🧡
Great job buddy 👍🇬🇧👍🇬🇧
Thank you Leslie!🧡⚙️
31 years of riding, never had that issue with my rim brakes. But!!!
40 years as a professional mechanic....surly you fib. Ha Ha 😮
Thank you for the video
Curious, when you were showing how to sand the rotor down to remove the grooves did you take the rotor out or spin it around so that you could sand the other side? The other issue was that you were refilling the brake mineral oil but the top new one was green and the old one was golden in color, would you not have pushed through fully by allowing the new green oil to fully replace the golden one? Thank you
It did actually push all the way through but didn’t really show, so we did completely change the fluid and did both sides of the pad 🧡
Great video! Weird question:
if a bike gets these scoremarks on the disc and lets say its a fairly new bike, will the repair be covered by warranty if i get it repaired at the bikeshop i bought it at? or is it a "usual" wear on the disc?
This is usual wear and tare 🧡
Yeah, yeah! Been there done that, many, many times! The noise is back within hours or days - unless you replace the pads and maybe the rotors too. Tektro has the worst brakes, linear or disc! Try Shimano....a lot less problems.
I always thought that one of the biggest selling points of these tiny discs over the far larger disc of a rim was that they could never squeal. The only reason that I would use these is if I was still riding sew ups.
If I may ask, what grid sand paper do you guys use to sand the discs?
120 Grit🧡
@@Bikespeedsthank you!!
Looks like GCN is watching your channel too 😂😎
We noticed…😂
How much did that cost?
Good job! What grit is the sand paper you used?
120 Grit🧡⚙️
Can I ask sir what spray you use to clean like you used here in this video? Thanks for reply
It is available on www.bikespeeds.com/shop 🧡
Thank you for the video.
Could it be the brake rotor alone that would cause squeaks? I have changed my brake pads and clean the rotor with brake cleaner and I still get squeaking mostly when I pulled the brake levers hard
It could be anything it’s very hard to say without being there listening!🧡
It would be better if you used a small sanding block in order to get a flat surface.
Curious about the bottle set up for the bleed. Can you suggest where to buy? Amazon perhaps. Cheers
This is just a random trade set we bought from a supplier! Sorry🧡
@@Bikespeeds Thanks.
My brakes only squeal in the rain, is it caused by the same issues and could be fixed the same way? Or is there something else going on?
No, the rain will always cause that
Merci!
Thank you Denis!🧡⚙️
#BikeSpeeds Please tell us what type of sand paper did you use for brake rotors.
120 Grit🧡⚙️
Something different 👌
More of this sort of thing coming in between our normal videos!🧡⚙️
No bedding in the pads after??
I kinda like my loud brakes on my road bike as it helps cars know I'm there
Is that something UK special that mt200s have metal pistons instead of the usual plastics?
I didn’t know it wasn’t normal but yes they’re mostly metal🧡⚙️
👍🏼brilliant
Thank you again Paul🧡
What brand of green fluid are you filling? Thanks !
www.bikespeeds.com/product-page/cyclo-mineral-oil-brake-fluid 🧡
New sub.Tom in Dublin
Thanks Tom!🧡⚙️
I find that you just never contaminate your brake pads with cleaners. I don't do this even on my motorcycles, on my mountain bikes I pull the pads out and wash them out with acetone. When you do this do not scrub or clean your rotors, you do not want to remove the beded in in brake pad material, this is the same on motorcycles. Obviously in this video somebody did not keep an eye on their brakes. I have found that sometimes when a brake pad gets contaminated there's no fixing it and you just got to replace them. Mountain bike brakes are way harder to maintain than motorcycle and they will always make more noise. This is the biggest maintenance issue on mountain bikes next would be keeping the chain and your gears clean.
I really would not use brake cleaner without gloves and if you do it regularly, without ventilation. Not sure if stuff used with bikes is a bad as the ones with cars, but...
Blessings, what weight sandpaper to be used ?
120 grit 🧡⚙️
What grade is the emery cloth?
120 Grit!🧡
@@Bikespeeds can it be used on pads too or is it just for the rotors?