Thank you so much. Videos like these have enabled me to fix my sisters dryer and now my parents. The guy came out to fix my parents dryer & as soon as they see an elderly person the rip off begins. They know that a 90-year-old is most likely not capable of diagnosing what’s wrong with the dryer and fixing it. The guy came out twice charged him over $300 and said if he had to come back again it would be another $300. They can buy a brand new dryer for that!! It ended up being the wire came disconnected like in your video. My parents can’t afford to keep paying the guy to come out so thank you for your help!
That's awesome to hear that you were able to fix it for them & avoided the large over charge of some scammer. This is the reason I make these videos to help people out in the trade, or home owners & diy'ers who have enough know how with watching a video. Thanks for watching usastrongwoman & Subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
Thanks - I just watch this video and it helps me figure out the problem much more quickly -- I just got a call from my godson's parents saying they're dryer didn't work and it was a GE and it was the exact same problem burnt out purple wire.I usually keep all that kind of wiring stuff in my truck but recently I cleared it out so I headed over to Lowe's and bought a nice female connector and I bought some electrical wire nuts and I had a piece of nice wire in my truck. I cleaned the hell out of the mail terminal with emory cloth- got it nice and shiny.it was kind of a oxidized from the heat I got it nice and clean and put a little dialectic grease on it and put the new connector on it and it's working great again . Thanks again great video
Awesome!! Glad the video helped out & from the way you explained how you made the repair you should be good to go. Thanks for watching Peter & make sure you subscribe to the channel 👍
This was the exact issue I had with my GE Dryer not heating. I stripped and crimped the purple cable and it is working again. Thank you for this video!
My wonderful GE HD DRYER stopped working, motor was seized with lint. Cleaned every last bit of lint, motor worked perfectly. Intermittent heat, checked 240 socket 240v ok, while running could hear dedicated circuit breaker in box making static noise, jiggled breaker heat came on instantly. Replaced breaker, thanks again 👍
Nice video. I was always taught you do not twist the wires your putting in a connector. If the crimp is proper, the straight wires will be split between both rolled crimps.
@@TheVidCheesey I've seen people do it either way. Whatever you prefer, as long as it gets the job done. I don't believe either is right or wrong. Thanks for watching & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Thanks for the video. I have a new GE dryer… bought it 16 months ago so just out of warranty. It had the exact same problem. The wire looked identically melted and the lead came disconnected.
@@Hablizel I really appreciate that Hablizel. I'm glad the video helped you out. Thanks for watching & help support the channel by subscribing & hit that thumbs button on the video 🛠️👍
Great video. My dryer must be newer, so getting the top off was more of a pain. The issue was almost exactly the same. My spade connector was still attached but the wire was melted in half. Clearly there is an issue here with so many people reporting the exact same thing.
When can you come over? GE repair coming to hopefully fix this same issue a 3rd time in Tampa Fl. First repair, put the cable on backwards, a week later back , puts new cable on the correct way, adds other parts, Question, why can't that cable not just clip in, rather screw in? It has a hole?
Aloha Rich... (and our Latin lurker, et al.) * * * Purchased all the tools; removed the top and front; pulled it out from the wall far enough to unplug it... Preliminary inspection didn't reveal any broken/loose wires... * * * I'm ready to turn the breaker on and test the voltages from the oulet... ... except I have a three-prong plug, not the four-prong as depicted in most videos I've seen... What are the voltages for the three-prong outlet...? * * * AND what's next IF no broken wires are discovered... ? * * * Until that time. . .
It's hard for me to say what type of outlet & what type of voltage you would have without me seeing it in person, & I don't want to give you the wrong information when I never saw it, so I really can't say what it is, or what it should be. What is the issue? No heat but dryer still turns on? Or dryer won't turn on at all?
It would have been a perfect video if you would have also shown checking the other reasons it isnt heating. But this is a good video for pointing out a flaw in the design of this machine.
Next time I have one apart I will do that. The purpose of this video was to just show the issue & how to fix it. Thanks for watching Jim & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
I'm also working as a apartment maintenance tech and starting to see this on our GE dryers. I had success with one repair as you've shown in the video just re crimping the connector, but I am working on another one now where I may need to splice The Wire. If you were to have to extend that wire what specs would I need to pay attention to replacing the wire? (Unsure if there is anything "special" with Appliance wires) Do you think you would just connect with a butt splice crimpers connector and maybe heat shrink over it?
I've had to do that before as well. I bought a roll of 14awg wire from Johnstone supply. They sell it in black, red or green. It's MTW wire (Machine Tool Wire). You can make a splice & use a high temp connector or ceramic wire nut. I've never tried a regular butt connector with heat shrink but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Hope that helps Mike & subscribe to the channel 👍
Aloha Rich... (and our favorite Latin lurker, et al.)... (wink) * * * Superb tutorial on the wire and the checking of continuity before and after the repair... I like it. * * * Now, I have the Model number and Serial Number of the dryer in question... are those pieces of information any help to determining what sort of innards I could expect to uncover when I pull the whole thing apart? Our symptom is no heat... I will check the output of the supply outlet - I just returned from a trip, during which time I flipped a few electrical hogs OFF when we left. * * * Additionally, I may NOT need to shut off the power to the dryer IF there isn't anyone here to start it, correct...? (LOL) ... now that would be a great dryer; one that starts itself when it detects wet clothes... (LOL) * * * Great tutorial... * * * 𝑩𝒐𝒓𝒏 𝒐𝒏 𝑽𝒂𝒍𝒍𝒆𝒚 𝑰𝒔𝒍𝒆, 𝑯𝒐𝒎𝒆 𝒏𝒐𝒘 𝑵𝒐𝒓𝒕𝒉 𝑪𝒂𝒓𝒐𝒍𝒊𝒏𝒂; 𝑨𝒍𝒐𝒉𝒂 𝒚'𝒂𝒍𝒍... * * * Until that time...
It's 14 gauge wire. You can get some from Lowe's or home depot. You want 14 AWG MTW (which stands for Machine Tool Wire) which is used in appliance wiring & many other things. Just make sure you sand down the terminal on the heating element real good before you put the new wire connector on it. Otherwise it will happen again. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Techomatic & subscribe to the channel 👍
Good job. Only i wouldnt lean over a rotating drum or stand too close ... Yeooowww!!! Careful around 220v. My model is 120v, ran perfectly 1995-2023 until a fuse blew. Good for another 28 years?
A jacket string got caught in the drum and I had to yank it out hard and after it stopped heating and it sounds as if the drum is loose. What do you think it is? It's pretty new still. TIA
It's hard to say without seeing it in person obviously but when you pulled the string the drum could have moved & caused the heating element to short out to itself or caused the drum to not sit properly on the top bearing. You will have to unplug it & take it apart to see what you find out. Hope that helps & Thanks for watching Claudia & Subscribe to the channel 👍
There's a 30 Amp fuse on the back where the cord hooks up to the terminal block & there's a thermal fuse/cut off located on the top right side of the heating element housing. You would need to remove the lid, front panel & take the drum out to access the thermal fuse. I would check the 30 amp fuse first since it's very easy to access. Thanks for watching Trenten & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
14 AWG is the wire size. So any connector in the range of 14 AWG -20 AWG. Thanks for watching Thomas & make sure you subscribe to the channel it helps out a lot. 👍
I have another video on the belt itself. If you go to my playlist & click on the appliance repair videos it's the second video down from the top. Hope it helps out. Thanks for watching problemsulfer & subscribe to the channel 👍
Hey this worked great for me and the dryer had heat again...until after using the dryer 4 times in one day and it happened burned again . Why do you think this might be?
The terminal (the metal piece that the wire slides onto) needs cleaned. If it's not shiny silver it will happen again. I had this happen before as well. You need to take a piece of sand cloth and sand it really good on the front & back so it's shiny silver. Also when you cut the wire to install a new connector on the end, the copper wire needs to be shiny copper. If it's dull, you need to cut it back further until you get to copper. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Kyla & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Same problem here. Wire burnt right off. GE should do a recall on these dryers. This issue is a fire hazard. Bad connection and excess lint is a dangerous combination. I would like to know if anyone has had a fire due to this issue.
@@chrisdaley2200 Haven't seen a fire from this issue but have seen this issue several times. Thanks for watching Chris & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
I've had that happen before as well. Normally when that happens it's due to the terminal on the heating element having corrosion on it & cut back more of the wire until you get to clean copper wire & use a butt connector to attach the new wire to where you cut off the old section & use a piece of heat shrink over the butt connector. Clean the terminal on the heating element real good with a piece of emery cloth or sand paper & you should be good to go. Ever since I did that on a dryer that the same thing happened again I haven't been back to it & it's been over a year now. Thanks for watching Zapper & subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
@@lastdon25 Sounds good. Just make sure to cut the wire back far enough to where the copper is shinny after you strip the coating off if it's not cut it back further. Get the wire from Lowes or home depot it's 14 Gauge AWG Stranded THHN Wire. You can get a roll of it for like $15-$30. Get butt connectors for 14 AWG wire & shrink wrap to go over the butt connector along with emery cloth to clean up the terminal on the heating element. You want that terminal to be shinny silver on both sides but you won't be able to see the back side of it cuz of the dryer cabinet but just clean it real good. Good luck 👍
That is known as a female spade connector or crimp connector. You gotta have the correct one rated for high temp. Thanks for watching Kats Kreations & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Yes the thermal cutoff switch is a common failure, u can jump out the switch and see if the dryer turns on. If so, then that's your issue. Good luck Matty 💪
This would be much better video if you would show testing the thermostats, the motor switch (the other end of the wire you fixed) all the video on here misses that along with the timer switch. these are the 3 things the guide tells one to test
I agree if I was looking for the issue. But once I saw what the issue was thats what the video was about. I will make a video in the near future going over the components inside an electric dryer & what symptoms would occur & what to check for those symptoms. Thanks for watching Larry 👍
Definitely hard to say without seeing it in person, but some things you can check is the wires going to the element to make sure none of them are burnt on the ends. On the right side of the element the purple wire is known for getting hot & melting off the connection. Also make sure your outlet is putting out 240 volts. Cuz if the breaker is bad & only putting out 120 volts to the outlet the motor will still run but it won't turn the element on which the dryer won't have any heat. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Jennifer & subscribe to the channel 👍
If a fuse failed it wouldn't heat at all after repairing the wire. The reason the wire melted was due to a bad wire connection on the heating element. After cleaning the terminal on the heating element & crimping on a new terminal everything is working properly & has been ever since. This was the case in my video, so different situations could have different failures, but if your wire is melted it's from a bad connection & corroded terminal. You will need to clean the terminal real good with some emery cloth or sand paper & crimp on a new high heat terminal. Thanks for watching Putt'n Around Outdoors & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@isaiahgreenfield2037 The resident who rents that apartment has it off. I was just there to fix the issue, it wasn't my personal dryer. Thanks for watching 👍
I would bet it's gas if you're saying there's a sticker on the front that says nat gas. But you can lean over the top of the dryer & look behind it to see what kind of cord & outlet it has. If the cord & outlet looks like a regular cord & outlet it would be a gas dryer. You should also see either a small yellow or small silver flex gas line going to the bottom of the dryer on the back. If your dryer is electric you should just see a large power cord going into a large 240 volt outlet. Don't be confused with the dryer vent hose which both the gas & electric dryer will have & that's a large 4 inch silver vent hose that will be at the bottom middle of either dryer. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching Tiesha & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Delicate is a lower heat setting. If you have a infrared thermometer check the temperature inside the dryer before turning it on, then run it for 2 or 3 minutes & check the temperature again. If the temperature went up & it's consistent each time after checking it, I would say it's cause delicate is a lower heat setting. Thanks for watching Jen & Subscribe to the channel 👍
No because the dryer drum bearing mounts into the back panel of the dryer, & it would be alot more work & take 3 times as long (that's even if you could properly do it that way). Thanks for watching No Name & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Any tip on restring the heater elements. Can’t seem to get the connection leads through the ceramic holders as I’m removing it. I can cut the old ones but getting the new one threaded through 🤷♂️
@@NoName-be5ir No problem! I have always bought the replacement element with the housing. It's cheaper to buy the element with the housing than it is to buy the element itself. Sorry I don't have any tips on restringing the element as I have never done it on the GE dryers. I've done them on the Whirlpool stackable dryer, but the element is really small & easy to do.
@@ApartmentMaintenance took a few min to figure it out but I had to bend the small top tabs on the connection leads on the heating element coils. Then try fit through the ceramic holders so you can then work them around and out. On The new coil I again bent the top small tab on both sides to fish them threw the round ceramic holders. The part store only had the coil in stock for $20.00 but had to order the complete heating coil unit which is $125.00 After getting it all back together I turned it on and every spun correctly which for my first time taking a dryer that far apart I was relieved. Lol.. But still no heat.. some reason I checked the breaker and it was tripped. Still allowing power to turn on. 🤔 I flipped it off waited a few seconds and flipped it back on and , yep heat on the dryer. Thanks for your video that gave me the courage to even try this. Thanks again
Would be great to see where else the connection could be an issue. Because this wasn’t the issue for me. Where the source of the energy of wires supposed to look like
There could be an issue anywhere. You would just have to look over your wiring. Is your dryer running but not heating? Or not doing anything at all ? Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 👍
Check out the other video in my playlist on appliance repairs & the belt replacement video is the 2nd video down. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching bro 👍
Element is fine, it's from corrosion on the terminal from a loose connection. Cleaned up terminal on element & crimped a new connector on the wire & it has been fine ever since the video was posted 9 months ago. Thanks for watching Mow59 & Subscribe to the channel 👍
It was difficult to get the camera in there to be able to see it properly. But there's a belt tensioner pulley in there that you push down and slide the belt off then you can remove the drum. It's the same for reinstalling the belt. Sorry about that. Thanks for watching Holly & subscribe to the channel 👍
Yes I agree, but I don't have a solder iron at work. I didn't record it but I cleaned up the terminal on the heating element to prevent this from happening again. Thanks for the feedback & watching Chris! Subscribe to the channel 👍
My questiin is does anyone know why these wires burn? Can't find a definitive answer anywhere. I guess the American consumer just settles for this crap now.
Loose connection generates heat & then causes the terminal to get too hot which also melts the wire. Basically an issue from the manufacturer & you are correct that the consumer is stuck with the issue when it happens. Thanks for watching WTLowery82 & subscribe to the channel 👍
Yeah it will continue to happen if you don't clean the terminal on the element really well. I had one melt the wire twice as well & learned the hard way lol. But it's been fine ever since. Use Emory cloth to sand down the terminal until it's shiny on both sides & the edges & you will be fine. Thanks for watching Adam & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Great observation! I realized that when editing the video, so far no issues though & it's been quite a few months. Thanks for watching Allbbrz & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Yep! I've worked on both over the years & whirlpool is definitely easier to get to the element by far. Thanks for watching Khuma & subscribe to the channel 👍
Thank you so much. Videos like these have enabled me to fix my sisters dryer and now my parents. The guy came out to fix my parents dryer & as soon as they see an elderly person the rip off begins. They know that a 90-year-old is most likely not capable of diagnosing what’s wrong with the dryer and fixing it. The guy came out twice charged him over $300 and said if he had to come back again it would be another $300. They can buy a brand new dryer for that!! It ended up being the wire came disconnected like in your video. My parents can’t afford to keep paying the guy to come out so thank you for your help!
That's awesome to hear that you were able to fix it for them & avoided the large over charge of some scammer. This is the reason I make these videos to help people out in the trade, or home owners & diy'ers who have enough know how with watching a video. Thanks for watching usastrongwoman & Subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Thank You for the response. I will subscribe.
Thank You again.
@@usastrongwoman1 No problem! & Thank you as well.
Bruh, this was the exact problem with my dryer. I fixed the connection and was deemed king of the house by my wife. Thanks for saving me some $$
@@acousticloopmusic3018 Niceeeeee!! 🤣 Glad the video helped you out. Thanks for watching & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Thank you I'm going to try fix mine now too.
@@eric3282-q4q Good luck on your repair!
@@eric3282-q4q Good luck on your repair! 🛠️👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance thank you much
Thanks - I just watch this video and it helps me figure out the problem much more quickly -- I just got a call from my godson's parents saying they're dryer didn't work and it was a GE and it was the exact same problem burnt out purple wire.I usually keep all that kind of wiring stuff in my truck but recently I cleared it out so I headed over to Lowe's and bought a nice female connector and I bought some electrical wire nuts and I had a piece of nice wire in my truck. I cleaned the hell out of the mail terminal with emory cloth- got it nice and shiny.it was kind of a oxidized from the heat I got it nice and clean and put a little dialectic grease on it and put the new connector on it and it's working great again . Thanks again great video
Awesome!! Glad the video helped out & from the way you explained how you made the repair you should be good to go. Thanks for watching Peter & make sure you subscribe to the channel 👍
Thank you for replying and Thanks Again !! I am subscribed and will share with friends .
@@Peter-do5ht Appreciate that!
This was the exact issue I had with my GE Dryer not heating. I stripped and crimped the purple cable and it is working again. Thank you for this video!
No problem! Glad the video helped out David. Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 👍
Good explanation, my dryer isn't even 6 months old, and this is the last GE ever. Ill research for the best next time
Appreciate that. Thanks for watching Had It All & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Gosh , I could not put the belt tried for hours watching other videos then I found yours and able to put the drum back. Big thank you
Glad the video helped out. Thanks for watching S Qaz & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Had the same problem with the same model dryer, bought new
No problem! Thanks for watching & Subscribe to the channel D 👍
My wonderful GE HD DRYER stopped working, motor was seized with lint. Cleaned every last bit of lint, motor worked perfectly. Intermittent heat, checked 240 socket 240v ok, while running could hear dedicated circuit breaker in box making static noise, jiggled breaker heat came on instantly. Replaced breaker, thanks again 👍
Awesome! Glad to hear you got everything figured out. Thanks for watching tcmits3699 & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Nice video. I was always taught you do not twist the wires your putting in a connector. If the crimp is proper, the straight wires will be split between both rolled crimps.
@@TheVidCheesey I've seen people do it either way. Whatever you prefer, as long as it gets the job done. I don't believe either is right or wrong. Thanks for watching & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Thanks for the video. I have a new GE dryer… bought it 16 months ago so just out of warranty. It had the exact same problem. The wire looked identically melted and the lead came disconnected.
Yep, it was a loose or bad connection. Glad the video helped out. Thanks for watching blackburst1 & subscribe to the channel 👍
May God richly bless you for this video. You saved me several hundred dollars.😁
@@Hablizel I really appreciate that Hablizel. I'm glad the video helped you out. Thanks for watching & help support the channel by subscribing & hit that thumbs button on the video 🛠️👍
Great video. My dryer must be newer, so getting the top off was more of a pain. The issue was almost exactly the same. My spade connector was still attached but the wire was melted in half. Clearly there is an issue here with so many people reporting the exact same thing.
Yeah definitely something that is causing it. Thanks for watching Brian & subscribe to the channel 👍
Thank you for the video I just had one burn out like that a couple weeks ago
No problem & Thanks for watching Thomas 👍
When can you come over? GE repair coming to hopefully fix this same issue a 3rd time in Tampa Fl. First repair, put the cable on backwards, a week later back , puts new cable on the correct way, adds other parts,
Question, why can't that cable not just clip in, rather screw in? It has a hole?
Wow, hopefully they get everything fixed properly for you. Thanks for watching psfgtech & subscribe to the channel 👍
Aloha Rich... (and our Latin lurker, et al.)
* * *
Purchased all the tools; removed the top and front; pulled it out from the wall far enough to unplug it...
Preliminary inspection didn't reveal any broken/loose wires...
* * *
I'm ready to turn the breaker on and test the voltages from the oulet...
... except I have a three-prong plug, not the four-prong as depicted in most videos I've seen...
What are the voltages for the three-prong outlet...?
* * *
AND what's next IF no broken wires are discovered... ?
* * *
Until that time. . .
It's hard for me to say what type of outlet & what type of voltage you would have without me seeing it in person, & I don't want to give you the wrong information when I never saw it, so I really can't say what it is, or what it should be.
What is the issue? No heat but dryer still turns on? Or dryer won't turn on at all?
It would have been a perfect video if you would have also shown checking the other reasons it isnt heating. But this is a good video for pointing out a flaw in the design of this machine.
I appreciate the constructive criticism, it only helps me create better videos in the future. Thanks for watching Tim & subscribe to the channel 👍
Awesome video. My GE dryer had exactly the same issue.
Glad the video helped out! Thanks for watching Manticore978 & subscribe to the channel 👍
Good However wished you showed how to check the other 3 sensors around the pancake
Next time I have one apart I will do that. The purpose of this video was to just show the issue & how to fix it. Thanks for watching Jim & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
I'm also working as a apartment maintenance tech and starting to see this on our GE dryers. I had success with one repair as you've shown in the video just re crimping the connector, but I am working on another one now where I may need to splice The Wire. If you were to have to extend that wire what specs would I need to pay attention to replacing the wire? (Unsure if there is anything "special" with Appliance wires) Do you think you would just connect with a butt splice crimpers connector and maybe heat shrink over it?
I've had to do that before as well. I bought a roll of 14awg wire from Johnstone supply. They sell it in black, red or green. It's MTW wire (Machine Tool Wire). You can make a splice & use a high temp connector or ceramic wire nut. I've never tried a regular butt connector with heat shrink but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Hope that helps Mike & subscribe to the channel 👍
Aloha Rich... (and our favorite Latin lurker, et al.)... (wink)
* * *
Superb tutorial on the wire and the checking of continuity before and after the repair... I like it.
* * *
Now, I have the Model number and Serial Number of the dryer in question... are those pieces of information any help to determining what sort of innards I could expect to uncover when I pull the whole thing apart?
Our symptom is no heat... I will check the output of the supply outlet - I just returned from a trip, during which time I flipped a few electrical hogs OFF when we left.
* * *
Additionally, I may NOT need to shut off the power to the dryer IF there isn't anyone here to start it, correct...?
(LOL) ... now that would be a great dryer; one that starts itself when it detects wet clothes... (LOL)
* * *
Great tutorial...
* * *
𝑩𝒐𝒓𝒏 𝒐𝒏 𝑽𝒂𝒍𝒍𝒆𝒚 𝑰𝒔𝒍𝒆,
𝑯𝒐𝒎𝒆 𝒏𝒐𝒘 𝑵𝒐𝒓𝒕𝒉 𝑪𝒂𝒓𝒐𝒍𝒊𝒏𝒂;
𝑨𝒍𝒐𝒉𝒂 𝒚'𝒂𝒍𝒍...
* * *
Until that time...
Thanks for watching Earl J & Subscribe to the channel 👍
What would you do if you ran out of wire? What gauge wire could you use? Or what other options is there?
It's 14 gauge wire. You can get some from Lowe's or home depot. You want 14 AWG MTW (which stands for Machine Tool Wire) which is used in appliance wiring & many other things. Just make sure you sand down the terminal on the heating element real good before you put the new wire connector on it. Otherwise it will happen again. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Techomatic & subscribe to the channel 👍
Good job. Only i wouldnt lean over a rotating drum or stand too close ... Yeooowww!!! Careful around 220v. My model is 120v, ran perfectly 1995-2023 until a fuse blew. Good for another 28 years?
Appreciate the feedback & Thanks for watching Abe Lincoln & Subscribe to the channel if you're not already 👍
A jacket string got caught in the drum and I had to yank it out hard and after it stopped heating and it sounds as if the drum is loose. What do you think it is? It's pretty new still. TIA
It's hard to say without seeing it in person obviously but when you pulled the string the drum could have moved & caused the heating element to short out to itself or caused the drum to not sit properly on the top bearing. You will have to unplug it & take it apart to see what you find out. Hope that helps & Thanks for watching Claudia & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Hey boss where is the thermal fuse located on these ge dryers?
There's a 30 Amp fuse on the back where the cord hooks up to the terminal block & there's a thermal fuse/cut off located on the top right side of the heating element housing. You would need to remove the lid, front panel & take the drum out to access the thermal fuse. I would check the 30 amp fuse first since it's very easy to access. Thanks for watching Trenten & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Thanks for your video. My GE dryer is brand new, but before I used it, I had to call for repairs.
Great GE product. Not
Thanks for watching Tom & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Do you know what size female crimp connector to replace this with?
14 AWG is the wire size. So any connector in the range of 14 AWG -20 AWG. Thanks for watching Thomas & make sure you subscribe to the channel it helps out a lot. 👍
Thank you. It was just my circuit breaker. Not enough juice.
Nice! Glad you figured it out. Thanks for watching LOZUPONEJ & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Great video Rich! Nice fix.
Thanks Lex 👍
He has kickass tools
Only buy good tools 💪 Thanks for watching Amanda & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Worked perfectly 😅
@@zia-son18lucero70 Glad the video helped out. Thanks for watching & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
and how do you get the belt off? I guess I missed that part...
I have another video on the belt itself. If you go to my playlist & click on the appliance repair videos it's the second video down from the top. Hope it helps out. Thanks for watching problemsulfer & subscribe to the channel 👍
Hey this worked great for me and the dryer had heat again...until after using the dryer 4 times in one day and it happened burned again . Why do you think this might be?
The terminal (the metal piece that the wire slides onto) needs cleaned. If it's not shiny silver it will happen again. I had this happen before as well. You need to take a piece of sand cloth and sand it really good on the front & back so it's shiny silver. Also when you cut the wire to install a new connector on the end, the copper wire needs to be shiny copper. If it's dull, you need to cut it back further until you get to copper. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Kyla & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Thanks so much, if it happens again, I'll try this!
@@kylamurray7378 Sounds good 👍
Same problem here. Wire burnt right off. GE should do a recall on these dryers. This issue is a fire hazard. Bad connection and excess lint is a dangerous combination. I would like to know if anyone has had a fire due to this issue.
@@chrisdaley2200 Haven't seen a fire from this issue but have seen this issue several times. Thanks for watching Chris & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Question I had the same problem as you. I fixed the wire replace. But it burned out again. Anything else it could be ?
I've had that happen before as well. Normally when that happens it's due to the terminal on the heating element having corrosion on it & cut back more of the wire until you get to clean copper wire & use a butt connector to attach the new wire to where you cut off the old section & use a piece of heat shrink over the butt connector. Clean the terminal on the heating element real good with a piece of emery cloth or sand paper & you should be good to go. Ever since I did that on a dryer that the same thing happened again I haven't been back to it & it's been over a year now. Thanks for watching Zapper & subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance thank you I appreciate your feedback and taking the time to respond back. I will definitely try this out!
@@lastdon25 Sounds good. Just make sure to cut the wire back far enough to where the copper is shinny after you strip the coating off if it's not cut it back further. Get the wire from Lowes or home depot it's 14 Gauge AWG Stranded THHN Wire. You can get a roll of it for like $15-$30. Get butt connectors for 14 AWG wire & shrink wrap to go over the butt connector along with emery cloth to clean up the terminal on the heating element. You want that terminal to be shinny silver on both sides but you won't be able to see the back side of it cuz of the dryer cabinet but just clean it real good. Good luck 👍
Awesome video. Thanks!
Appreciate that Harold. Thanks for watching & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Nice job and video like always
Thanks for watching Donnie 👍
What is the tip piece that you replaced called?
That is known as a female spade connector or crimp connector. You gotta have the correct one rated for high temp. Thanks for watching Kats Kreations & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Very informative. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching Shawn 👍
You need to change the slinky hose in the back there is still not enough airflow through that dryer
Thanks for watching es350 👍
I feel like I gotta replace the thermal cut off switch or thermal fuse????
Yes the thermal cutoff switch is a common failure, u can jump out the switch and see if the dryer turns on. If so, then that's your issue. Good luck Matty 💪
Whats the part number for the connector I need that but can’t find it
What connector are you talking about Osmar? Thanks for watching 👍
So how do you take the drum/belt off? You didnt show that part
Push the idler arm down & slide the belt out of the way. Thanks for watching Justin & subscribe to the channel 👍
Great vid
Appreciate it. Thanks for watching nomad13ify & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
This would be much better video if you would show testing the thermostats, the motor switch (the other end of the wire you fixed) all the video on here misses that along with the timer switch. these are the 3 things the guide tells one to test
I agree if I was looking for the issue. But once I saw what the issue was thats what the video was about. I will make a video in the near future going over the components inside an electric dryer & what symptoms would occur & what to check for those symptoms. Thanks for watching Larry 👍
My ge hotpoint dryer willn’t heat up got a new heat element and new thermostats and still will not heat up any idea
Definitely hard to say without seeing it in person, but some things you can check is the wires going to the element to make sure none of them are burnt on the ends. On the right side of the element the purple wire is known for getting hot & melting off the connection. Also make sure your outlet is putting out 240 volts. Cuz if the breaker is bad & only putting out 120 volts to the outlet the motor will still run but it won't turn the element on which the dryer won't have any heat. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Jennifer & subscribe to the channel 👍
A nice video and all but you seem to have glossed over taking the belt off and the drum out
Thanks for watching B 👍
I also needed to see that!
How do you unhook belt from pulley?
It's hard to do if you can't see it.
Thank you otherwise for a very helpful video!
Great job
Appreciate that Young Buck Texan. Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
I have this problem. How do you know that a safety fuse didn't also fail as well and by just fixing this it will happen again
If a fuse failed it wouldn't heat at all after repairing the wire. The reason the wire melted was due to a bad wire connection on the heating element. After cleaning the terminal on the heating element & crimping on a new terminal everything is working properly & has been ever since. This was the case in my video, so different situations could have different failures, but if your wire is melted it's from a bad connection & corroded terminal. You will need to clean the terminal real good with some emery cloth or sand paper & crimp on a new high heat terminal. Thanks for watching Putt'n Around Outdoors & Subscribe to the channel 👍
What’s the buzzer sound like this dryer
Not sure what you're talking about? Thanks for watching Isaiah 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance why you turn end of cycle signal off
@@isaiahgreenfield2037 The resident who rents that apartment has it off. I was just there to fix the issue, it wasn't my personal dryer. Thanks for watching 👍
Good stuff
Thanks for watching Bob 👍
I'm having trouble telling is mine is gas or electric it don't have the peep hole like the gas models but the sticker on the front says nat gas.
I would bet it's gas if you're saying there's a sticker on the front that says nat gas. But you can lean over the top of the dryer & look behind it to see what kind of cord & outlet it has. If the cord & outlet looks like a regular cord & outlet it would be a gas dryer. You should also see either a small yellow or small silver flex gas line going to the bottom of the dryer on the back. If your dryer is electric you should just see a large power cord going into a large 240 volt outlet. Don't be confused with the dryer vent hose which both the gas & electric dryer will have & that's a large 4 inch silver vent hose that will be at the bottom middle of either dryer. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching Tiesha & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Mine heats on "cotton" setting but not on "delicate" setting. Any suggestions?
Delicate is a lower heat setting. If you have a infrared thermometer check the temperature inside the dryer before turning it on, then run it for 2 or 3 minutes & check the temperature again. If the temperature went up & it's consistent each time after checking it, I would say it's cause delicate is a lower heat setting. Thanks for watching Jen & Subscribe to the channel 👍
What model number is this dryer?.
GE Model # GTX18ESSJ0WW Thanks for watching Homeguest Unton 👍
Can this be done from just taking the back off?
No because the dryer drum bearing mounts into the back panel of the dryer, & it would be alot more work & take 3 times as long (that's even if you could properly do it that way). Thanks for watching No Name & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance thanks for your quick response and advice . 👍🏻
Any tip on restring the heater elements. Can’t seem to get the connection leads through the ceramic holders as I’m removing it. I can cut the old ones but getting the new one threaded through 🤷♂️
@@NoName-be5ir No problem! I have always bought the replacement element with the housing. It's cheaper to buy the element with the housing than it is to buy the element itself. Sorry I don't have any tips on restringing the element as I have never done it on the GE dryers. I've done them on the Whirlpool stackable dryer, but the element is really small & easy to do.
@@ApartmentMaintenance took a few min to figure it out but I had to bend the small top tabs on the connection leads on the heating element coils. Then try fit through the ceramic holders so you can then work them around and out. On The new coil I again bent the top small tab on both sides to fish them threw the round ceramic holders.
The part store only had the coil in stock for $20.00 but had to order the complete heating coil unit which is $125.00
After getting it all back together I turned it on and every spun correctly which for my first time taking a dryer that far apart I was relieved. Lol.. But still no heat..
some reason I checked the breaker and it was tripped. Still allowing power to turn on. 🤔 I flipped it off waited a few seconds and flipped it back on and , yep heat on the dryer.
Thanks for your video that gave me the courage to even try this. Thanks again
Would be great to see where else the connection could be an issue. Because this wasn’t the issue for me. Where the source of the energy of wires supposed to look like
There could be an issue anywhere. You would just have to look over your wiring. Is your dryer running but not heating? Or not doing anything at all ? Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 👍
Sorry about the late comment...but mine failed in the EXACT same place.
Yeah it's a common issue. Hope the video helped you out. Thanks for watching Wood_butcher & subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
Had same issue last week
Wow, crazy! Thanks for watching Cheney 👍
The most important part is missing, belt off and even more so belt back on. I tried a few times then threw the whole dryer in the trash.
Check out the other video in my playlist on appliance repairs & the belt replacement video is the 2nd video down. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching bro 👍
test element to ground???
Element is fine, it's from corrosion on the terminal from a loose connection. Cleaned up terminal on element & crimped a new connector on the wire & it has been fine ever since the video was posted 9 months ago. Thanks for watching Mow59 & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Didn't say anything about the belt to get the drum out??!!
It was difficult to get the camera in there to be able to see it properly. But there's a belt tensioner pulley in there that you push down and slide the belt off then you can remove the drum. It's the same for reinstalling the belt. Sorry about that. Thanks for watching Holly & subscribe to the channel 👍
❤❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks for watching oralwayne7273 & subscribe to the channel 👍
Best to solder the purple wire...this way it's wont be a problem anymore...
Yes I agree, but I don't have a solder iron at work. I didn't record it but I cleaned up the terminal on the heating element to prevent this from happening again. Thanks for the feedback & watching Chris! Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance BTW: Great video...
My questiin is does anyone know why these wires burn? Can't find a definitive answer anywhere. I guess the American consumer just settles for this crap now.
Loose connection generates heat & then causes the terminal to get too hot which also melts the wire. Basically an issue from the manufacturer & you are correct that the consumer is stuck with the issue when it happens. Thanks for watching WTLowery82 & subscribe to the channel 👍
Same thing happen to mine twice
Yeah it will continue to happen if you don't clean the terminal on the element really well. I had one melt the wire twice as well & learned the hard way lol. But it's been fine ever since. Use Emory cloth to sand down the terminal until it's shiny on both sides & the edges & you will be fine. Thanks for watching Adam & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
yoou should have cleaned up the rust on the heater connector
Great observation! I realized that when editing the video, so far no issues though & it's been quite a few months. Thanks for watching Allbbrz & Subscribe to the channel 👍
That connection should have been a soldered
Thanks for watching Robert 👍
Wow ge you need to take the drum to get to the element wow whirlpool is better simple to fix
Yep! I've worked on both over the years & whirlpool is definitely easier to get to the element by far. Thanks for watching Khuma & subscribe to the channel 👍
Starting dosen't work
Try the test I preform in the video to see if your belt is broke. Thanks for watching Jim & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Sheesh, they could of at least removed their clothes. Anyways, nice job
Haha very true! Thanks for watching Ryan 👍
Don't buy g.e..I use to work their..there's alot of quality holds. They go through alot of employees.
Appreciate the feedback David. Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 👍
i dont need intro music dude. My top dont take off. U skip it in ur video rendering it useless.
Thanks for watching MrTeko75