Great help. Thanks. It would be very usefull to have a condensed summary of the workflow. I am not sure what is the role of the hardener. Is applied along with the gelatin or as a replacement of the stop bad. Something I am missing in the video
Not to sound daft but is the separate gelatin coating 100% necessary for every coating, or just for the concete? The emulsion itself is gelatin and a few other videos don't show any extra prep work for other surfaces - just direct emulsion coating.
Sometimes on some papers and some materials gelatin isn't necessary. It really really depends on the material. I've printed both with and without, and I like how the emulsion spreads with a gelatin layer more. It's so super cheap, it can totally be used a lot. Just 20 extra minutes really
Good video. I'm working on making prints on stone. It turns out I'm basically following your steps but have had trouble with getting an even emulsion coating. The last tests I did I had added several coats of emulsion in order to get an even coat. Can you make the coating too thick? I'm using a foam brush. Perhaps I should use a standard paint brush?
Thanks for sharing your process, the results look great. How do you make sure the contrast of your negatives fits to the emulsion? Did you specifically develop the construction side negatives for printing on PWE?
You can control (to an extent) with the developer, having it a bit stronger/more diluted. Generally all my photos for some reason fit the emulsion just perfect :) Rollei has a variable-grade emulsion, but I have not tried it yet because I'm quite happy with my results so far
A very interesting video and the idea of using concrete for the base material is a fitting idea for your work for sure. I must comment that if you kind of like this process but would like more control of adjusting the image as you go then be sure to look into the Wralings Oil Print process. The only real toxic part of the Wralings process is the potassium dichromate sensitizer solution but this can also be applied in subdued light before it dries and then is really sensitive primarily to the UV range of light. For reference checkout Quinn Jacobson's videos. This is very similar to Bromoil but simpler to my mind at least.
Hi Lina I said you some mesages at your instagram chanel I wish you answer me because I think you can to help me to resolve some problem of one of my enlargers Thanks
Yeah Lina’s back 😊😊👏🏾👏🏾
😘I'm always here... just with very rare appearances 😅
This is great. I've been looking at coating some different surfaces and this has a lot of very useful information.
I have making photographs on my ceramic work and really appreciate your post. Especially the adhesion test for your emulsion! Super helpful!
Very nice video with great information. Thank you
It's very reassuring when you tell us the things that went wrong for you as well. This is a really cool process, but pretty involved
Oh I have things going wrong literally every day. I could make a video a week about all the fails :)
Thanks for sharing! Fantastic photo project on construction
Thank you!
Great job you are doing!
thanks!
Great help. Thanks. It would be very usefull to have a condensed summary of the workflow. I am not sure what is the role of the hardener. Is applied along with the gelatin or as a replacement of the stop bad. Something I am missing in the video
Amazing work, thank you! May I ask, what developer do you use or recommend?
Nice, I have been thinking about mounting on aluminum ACM panels it might be a good fit for direct emulsion.
Not to sound daft but is the separate gelatin coating 100% necessary for every coating, or just for the concete? The emulsion itself is gelatin and a few other videos don't show any extra prep work for other surfaces - just direct emulsion coating.
Sometimes on some papers and some materials gelatin isn't necessary. It really really depends on the material. I've printed both with and without, and I like how the emulsion spreads with a gelatin layer more. It's so super cheap, it can totally be used a lot. Just 20 extra minutes really
Good video. I'm working on making prints on stone. It turns out I'm basically following your steps but have had trouble with getting an even emulsion coating. The last tests I did I had added several coats of emulsion in order to get an even coat. Can you make the coating too thick? I'm using a foam brush. Perhaps I should use a standard paint brush?
Yes, you can make the coating too thick. It's better to have two very thin layers. Try a Hake brush! (goat hair)
Thanks for sharing your process, the results look great. How do you make sure the contrast of your negatives fits to the emulsion? Did you specifically develop the construction side negatives for printing on PWE?
You can control (to an extent) with the developer, having it a bit stronger/more diluted. Generally all my photos for some reason fit the emulsion just perfect :) Rollei has a variable-grade emulsion, but I have not tried it yet because I'm quite happy with my results so far
A very interesting video and the idea of using concrete for the base material is a fitting idea for your work for sure.
I must comment that if you kind of like this process but would like more control of adjusting the image as you go then be sure to look into the Wralings Oil Print process. The only real toxic part of the Wralings process is the potassium dichromate sensitizer solution but this can also be applied in subdued light before it dries and then is really sensitive primarily to the UV range of light. For reference checkout Quinn Jacobson's videos. This is very similar to Bromoil but simpler to my mind at least.
Hi Lina I said you some mesages at your instagram chanel I wish you answer me because I think you can to help me to resolve some problem of one of my enlargers Thanks
Probably better asking for help on a public photo forum. Doubt she has time to help individuals.
@@karlmatthias2698 YES I did that but have nor result And Lina have in her labo the same enlarger so that i ask her Thanks Karl for your comment