I understand the technical data and reasons behind the different films, but the graphics really help to give me a different perspective and deeper understanding. Thank you!
Such an informative Video, thanks for that. As someone who makes his own prints as a hobby I still try to figure out what actually influences the final look of the photos, and this helps a lot with knowing what different kinds of film do. My current ranking is the following: - proper exposure: if something is underexposed or completely overexposed you're not going to fix it in printing - developer: seems to have a big influence on the grain that appears in the final picture - film speed: higher speed films seem to get more grainy - the type of film: that surprised me, but it seems to make a way smaller difference than I thought before, the biggest thing that I noticed is that formapan films seem to have very little shadow detail, but otherwise all the other factors seem to have a way bigger impact. Soo, that's my experience so far, if anybody has a good tip im happy to hear it :D
I love your technical descriptions and how you are able to convey them in a clear and concise way. I also admire the knowledge you have acquired with your vast experience and your willingness and ability to share it with the world. Thank you for sharing!
Love this info! Thanks for sharing it concisely and without cliche jazzy keyboard/drums soundtrack that all film folks seem to use in videos! :) Cheers!
I've been shooting film since I was a kid in the 90s and I definitely learned somethings. Thanks for taking the time to research this beast of a subject. Your presentation was great!
Amazing video! Very well put together! I have found that Fomapan 100 can be shot perfectly fine from 50-3200 ASA- in fact, up to 800 ASA, I had a hard time differentiating them from 100 exposed shots!
Thank you very much for your informative videos! They are incredibly useful not only for beginners but also for more experienced photographers as they help to get deeper understanding of film emulsions.
Wow, this video was wonderfully researched! I really like your presentation style and the lengths you went to find answers about the sigma grain haha! Your channel is great!!
Great great video with trusted information! About the fixing times, I also noticed that tabular grain films usually require much more time than classic grain films. But, on the other hand, Tri-X takes much more time than Fomapan 200. So, other factors must also play a role when it comes to fixing times. I'm looking forward to watching new videos from you!
Thanks Lina this is super informative for understanding these different films. I did a side by side comparison with my Bronica GS-1 with film backs loaded with FP4 and Delta 100, shot the same scenes and developed in parallel. Results were almost identical. But shooting Deltas more casually outdoors I lose a lot more frames to exposure range problems so I don't use them regularly. Also if I want no grain and max sharpness, I just go digital!
If you want no grain, you could shoot a super-low ISO film. CMS 20 from Adox in Adotech developer has such tiny grain, it's impossible to focus with the enlarger :)
Great video Lina, I'm gonna have to watch it again, there is a lot of interesting information in here. Also, I love your t-shirt, where did you get it?
thank you so much. never heard of tabular grain before, i thought it was tubular grain as in hollow cylinders and not at all did i consider that they were the same as t-grain
One of the things I still wish is that you could get the Fuji Acros II in sheet films. I'm really used to shooting Foma 100 sheets and dealing with the reciprocity failure, but Acros II saves so much time because you don't have to compensate as much for reciprocity. It's like magic. I do close up scenes indoors, often with available light and more bellows draw. The combination of smaller aperture and bellows factor means I have some long exposures on many films.
"Fuji is cryptic", this made me laugh. But like Marshall McLuhan once said: "Mud gives the illusion of depth". This applies so much to big film marketing.
Thanks for your emphasis on getting reliable information, even at the expense of your self-embarrassment, which is funny - and, let's be honest - most of us have made plenty of such errors repeating hearsay. Glad to see a new video from you here; I don't follow the social media (can you tell I'm old?). My info is that the rebound in film photography continues strong, which is gratifying. Best wishes to you.
If you don't have social media, it can be an indicator of age... or just a very good balanced life! And yes, I'm amazed I actually did believe this nonsense.
@@linabessonova True confessions of what we have all believed at some point (as, presumably, adults) would unfortunately become a viral phenomenon, best left alone. At least some of us can say, we learned our lesson. THAT'S what should go viral.
Thanks for this very useful video. I never realised Fomapan 200 was a t-grain film. Makes me wonder why everything shot with it still looks like sandpaper soaked in bilge water.
this is brilliant and very helpful, thank you so much. I'm curious about your shirt though! where did you get it? did you make it? I would love to get one.
One of your best ever. Maybe the best. Questions: How about the difference between classical and T grain as far as pushing and as far as Stand Developing? I’d be interested in knowing that.
Hi Lina, it is an amazing educational video! I'm doing a tiny part of my research on the chemistry of black-and-white photographic film in my thesis, and I can't find nowhere reliable sources regarding the tabular grain emulsion in B&W film negative. Do you maybe mind sharing a few of them? Thank you!
Heyy! All my sources were basically Kodak, Fuji and other photo companies' patents from Google Scholar, and also some photography magazines which published news and articles in the 80s-90s. Just search for "tab grain" "tabular grain" "kodak T-max' "T grain" etc on Google Scholar, and you'll find a lot of information. It's extremely scattered out though. Took me several months to read through all of it and get a somewhat clear picture - which is still, I believe, not complete.
Very informative, thank you. I want to try some experiments with off camera flash with portraits, and after some research, I think I will try some Ilford delta 100, in the beginning in 35, if I like the results probably even in 120. In your opinion what is a really good developer for Delta 100? I already have HC-110, but I want to try something new. I have heard really nice things about Adox XT-3, that is basically XTOL, but a lot better and less a pain to mix. What do you think about it? But if you have an even better suggestion, I'm listening thank you :)
Delta 100 is my one love! But I do not like it in Xtol/XT-3, because the film is already pretty flat, and Xtol makes it basically even softer. I process it in Adox FX-39, my favorite developer ever. You should absolutely try it!
It’s ironic. T-grain is cheaper to produce, yet both Delta and Tmax are pricier than classic grain emulsions. Great and very informative video! Tbh I knew most of that but you managed to conclude all that knowledge into digestible and easy to understand summary ;)
Great video, Lina, but.. I miss so much the example photos taken with the each of the discussed films!!! It would be a way better if you show it additionaly to the explanation. Just an advice for the next video..
@linabessonova does film grain only become visible in too low and too high lighting.if the lighting conditions are moderate wil you not notice any grain as long as you don't magnify the image.
I do not have 100% info whether Ilford makes the Acros emulsions, or coats them, or only finishes into cassettes. But if they were to make Fuji Acros, they could.
I understand the technical data and reasons behind the different films, but the graphics really help to give me a different perspective and deeper understanding. Thank you!
Such an informative Video, thanks for that. As someone who makes his own prints as a hobby I still try to figure out what actually influences the final look of the photos, and this helps a lot with knowing what different kinds of film do. My current ranking is the following:
- proper exposure: if something is underexposed or completely overexposed you're not going to fix it in printing
- developer: seems to have a big influence on the grain that appears in the final picture
- film speed: higher speed films seem to get more grainy
- the type of film: that surprised me, but it seems to make a way smaller difference than I thought before, the biggest thing that I noticed is that formapan films seem to have very little shadow detail, but otherwise all the other factors seem to have a way bigger impact.
Soo, that's my experience so far, if anybody has a good tip im happy to hear it :D
Thank you for providing good quality information that is easy to digest. Definitely helps me make better, wise decisions with my own photography.
You're most welcome!
I love your technical descriptions and how you are able to convey them in a clear and concise way. I also admire the knowledge you have acquired with your vast experience and your willingness and ability to share it with the world. Thank you for sharing!
For beginners or not. You did some amazing research. :)
Thank you!
You took what could be an overly technical subject about film and not only made it understandable but fun to watch as well. Thanks, Lina.
Thank you for watching! Happy that my love for technical subjects can be useful!
@@linabessonova where can i buy that shirt. For a friend
You did some amazing research on this. Thank you for such a wonderful informative video.
Thank you for the support!
You should take up teaching, Lina. You're very good at taking what can be heavy subjects and making them fun and informative. Great video!! :)
Thank you Carl! I love teaching a lot
Love this info! Thanks for sharing it concisely and without cliche jazzy keyboard/drums soundtrack that all film folks seem to use in videos! :) Cheers!
Great episode!! Saves me the time of figuring it out myself...LOL Happy shooting!! Love your channel.
Thank you! I am doing stuff that I wish I had when I was starting !
The best summary and explanation of the difference between tabular and core-shell I've ever seen/read 👏👏👏
I've been shooting film since I was a kid in the 90s and I definitely learned somethings. Thanks for taking the time to research this beast of a subject. Your presentation was great!
Happy you enjoyed it!
This is a great series of videos. Looking forward to more!
A very well-researched and informative video. You obviously did your homework. Nicely done.
Weeks... even months of homework!
Incredibly good information explained very, very well! Thanks for this! Great video!
Thank you!
Amazing video! Very well put together! I have found that Fomapan 100 can be shot perfectly fine from 50-3200 ASA- in fact, up to 800 ASA, I had a hard time differentiating them from 100 exposed shots!
Fomapan 100 is a classical grain film, so it gotta be flexible! Actually I feel that Foma films are really underrated
Thank you very much for your informative videos! They are incredibly useful not only for beginners but also for more experienced photographers as they help to get deeper understanding of film emulsions.
Happy you enjoyed it!
Very informative and knowledgeable video, as always. Thanks! And now I need that t-shirt
Thank you! And T shirts, at some point, I will print them for sale :)
This is the best video of all the photography videos.
Very nice informative video Lina! I had to share this to my Facebook page!
Thanks for sharing! :)
Terrific video, packed with well researched content. I learnt plenty despite shooting film for many years !
Happy you liked it!
Wow I appreciate the deep dive into film tech. I thought I was the only with this type interest. Great content
Wow, this video was wonderfully researched! I really like your presentation style and the lengths you went to find answers about the sigma grain haha! Your channel is great!!
Thank you so much! It took long to research, but it was a lot of fun too!
Great great video with trusted information! About the fixing times, I also noticed that tabular grain films usually require much more time than classic grain films. But, on the other hand, Tri-X takes much more time than Fomapan 200. So, other factors must also play a role when it comes to fixing times. I'm looking forward to watching new videos from you!
(Redirect from your latest interview posted by Ilford China)
This is an amazing video and resolve many of my doubts !
In "The Film Developing Cookbook" by Bill Troop and Steven Anchell on pg.12 and 16 they list Foma 200 under mixed grain.
which is quite probably what it is, by all indications. Foma itself claims it to be tabular, but yeah, probably not 90% like Tmax
For beginners or not, always nice to see you being passionate about what you do 😁 What do you shoot the most lately?
Kodak T-Max 400 for a work project (construction sites), Delta 100 for personal work, and HR-50 to generate content for Adox :)
Thank you for this great serie so far!
Great explanation and lovely graphics too! I am hoping for a long series of these videos ;-)
Thank you! Every video takes A LOT of work - so I hope to continue, but next episode won't be soon!
You’re awesome!! These film instruction videos are great!
Thank you!
Thanks Lina this is super informative for understanding these different films. I did a side by side comparison with my Bronica GS-1 with film backs loaded with FP4 and Delta 100, shot the same scenes and developed in parallel. Results were almost identical. But shooting Deltas more casually outdoors I lose a lot more frames to exposure range problems so I don't use them regularly. Also if I want no grain and max sharpness, I just go digital!
If you want no grain, you could shoot a super-low ISO film. CMS 20 from Adox in Adotech developer has such tiny grain, it's impossible to focus with the enlarger :)
@@linabessonova True, good point.
Excellent! Really informative, and charmingly communicated.
How good was that! Keep this series going!
greatfull Lina, good explanation!
love it Lina
Hi Janosch, happy you liked it! HP5 or Tri-X are both incredibly flexible. I just happened to have more experience with HP5!
Great video Lina, I'm gonna have to watch it again, there is a lot of interesting information in here. Also, I love your t-shirt, where did you get it?
Happy you liked it! T-shirt, I designed myself :) Probably I should make a few for sale
@@linabessonova You should definitely publish it in a place like Threadless that ship worldwide.
Well done! So much information and great comparisons
This was great! Hope you make more videos like this
thank you so much. never heard of tabular grain before, i thought it was tubular grain as in hollow cylinders and not at all did i consider that they were the same as t-grain
Great video Lina was asking myself the same question a couple of weeks ago :))
A much needed video!
This video is incredible! Very informative.
Very great video, Amazing. More videos like this. Saludos de México 🙏🏽
Thank you!
I enjoy your style of presenting
omg I learned SO much from this video! You got yourself a new sub 🥰!
One of the things I still wish is that you could get the Fuji Acros II in sheet films. I'm really used to shooting Foma 100 sheets and dealing with the reciprocity failure, but Acros II saves so much time because you don't have to compensate as much for reciprocity. It's like magic. I do close up scenes indoors, often with available light and more bellows draw. The combination of smaller aperture and bellows factor means I have some long exposures on many films.
I have one pack of 4x5 Acros from probably seven years ago... Extra nice film indeed!
Great video and information. For 35mm film scanning, which gives the best results: Epson V600, Plustek 8200iai or using a DSLR?
"Fuji is cryptic", this made me laugh. But like Marshall McLuhan once said: "Mud gives the illusion of depth". This applies so much to big film marketing.
Ah, you're quoting my university crush!
Great and informative video!
Have a good week!
Thank you, you too!
Thanks for your emphasis on getting reliable information, even at the expense of your self-embarrassment, which is funny - and, let's be honest - most of us have made plenty of such errors repeating hearsay. Glad to see a new video from you here; I don't follow the social media (can you tell I'm old?). My info is that the rebound in film photography continues strong, which is gratifying. Best wishes to you.
If you don't have social media, it can be an indicator of age... or just a very good balanced life!
And yes, I'm amazed I actually did believe this nonsense.
@@linabessonova True confessions of what we have all believed at some point (as, presumably, adults) would unfortunately become a viral phenomenon, best left alone. At least some of us can say, we learned our lesson. THAT'S what should go viral.
This is a great vid! Thanks and I'm a subscriber now.
Excellent video!
Thanks for this very useful video. I never realised Fomapan 200 was a t-grain film. Makes me wonder why everything shot with it still looks like sandpaper soaked in bilge water.
this is brilliant and very helpful, thank you so much. I'm curious about your shirt though! where did you get it? did you make it? I would love to get one.
One of your best ever. Maybe the best. Questions: How about the difference between classical and T grain as far as pushing and as far as Stand Developing? I’d be interested in knowing that.
Hi Lina, it is an amazing educational video! I'm doing a tiny part of my research on the chemistry of black-and-white photographic film in my thesis, and I can't find nowhere reliable sources regarding the tabular grain emulsion in B&W film negative. Do you maybe mind sharing a few of them? Thank you!
Heyy! All my sources were basically Kodak, Fuji and other photo companies' patents from Google Scholar, and also some photography magazines which published news and articles in the 80s-90s. Just search for "tab grain" "tabular grain" "kodak T-max' "T grain" etc on Google Scholar, and you'll find a lot of information. It's extremely scattered out though. Took me several months to read through all of it and get a somewhat clear picture - which is still, I believe, not complete.
@@linabessonova Thank you so much! ❤ In the meantime, I found some articles, however, the search is still ongoing and I truly appreciate your advice!
Very informative, thank you. I want to try some experiments with off camera flash with portraits, and after some research, I think I will try some Ilford delta 100, in the beginning in 35, if I like the results probably even in 120. In your opinion what is a really good developer for Delta 100? I already have HC-110, but I want to try something new. I have heard really nice things about Adox XT-3, that is basically XTOL, but a lot better and less a pain to mix. What do you think about it? But if you have an even better suggestion, I'm listening thank you :)
Delta 100 is my one love! But I do not like it in Xtol/XT-3, because the film is already pretty flat, and Xtol makes it basically even softer. I process it in Adox FX-39, my favorite developer ever. You should absolutely try it!
@@linabessonova Thank you for your reply. I will give FX-39 a go then :)
Ive got a cool looking analog camera and a beard ! Sounds like I missed my chance to impress you !
:) :)
It’s ironic. T-grain is cheaper to produce, yet both Delta and Tmax are pricier than classic grain emulsions. Great and very informative video! Tbh I knew most of that but you managed to conclude all that knowledge into digestible and easy to understand summary ;)
Great video, Lina, but.. I miss so much the example photos taken with the each of the discussed films!!! It would be a way better if you show it additionaly to the explanation. Just an advice for the next video..
@linabessonova does film grain only become visible in too low and too high lighting.if the lighting conditions are moderate wil you not notice any grain as long as you don't magnify the image.
Great video!!
Great talk
Excellent. Thank you
pls continue with color film grain
А что скажете о плёнке Rollei?
Immensely helpful, Thanks!
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏❤️
I'm almost certain today's Acros 100 is made by llford with their emulstion making machines and thus bound to core-shell
I do not have 100% info whether Ilford makes the Acros emulsions, or coats them, or only finishes into cassettes. But if they were to make Fuji Acros, they could.
I didn't realise foma200 was tabular! (it is s pretty great film).
I want that T shirt! 😄
Yeah, 2 Nikon!
Half blue hair is an improvement. Perhaps in a few years you’ll reach potential.
Hahaha, the Tmax has T-shaped grain, I was told that 30 years ago to me. Seems to be a popular myth.
I would add, Tabular films are not good for difficult/uncontrolable lighting situations; like street photography.
That's right! This also goes with latitude, but you're right, I could've been more explicit about that
Nothing like trix exposed at 200 iso and developed one shot d76 1to1
Watch out Lina, leaning over the chemical trays can turn your hair blue.
Mom, can we have Tmax 400 at home?
No, son, we have Tmax at home
*Tmax at home = Fomapan 200*
Как из Инстаграмм ушёл, так и потерял тебя.