I create negatives in the camera, whether it's platinum, gelatin silver, or copperplate photogravure (which requires a positive transparency) ... I was fortunate to learn all the controls required before computers were even talked about. I've even done everything without any electricity at all.
The printing world is completely new to me, but I believe it's the last step in the photo process so I'm trying to print more this year. This video was quite technical for me but it was absolutely brilliant, loved watching the process. edit: I'll go as far to say this has been the best video I've watched on RUclips for a long time.
Fascinating. It goes to show what can be achieved at home with the time, proper kit, patience, and some know-how. Baby steps for me for now. Get to grips with just editing and printing to an inkjet printer. I bought the Canon 100s 2 years ago....to my chagrin. I haven't really done anything since I bought it. The first (and only) print then was darker than expected compared to that displayed on a calibrated screen .
Great video and I am starting to learn about Palladium. I have a question: why did you say that the pure black in the tset strip is the right exposure time? I am not sure if I followed this aspect. Thanks so much for your time and great video. Cheers
Hi Ian I really enjoyed your video! I’ve just ran out of pictorico and it’s impossible to get hold of any in the uk at the minute. Is the fotospeed transparency the same as the pictorico or will I need to make some adjustments to the printer setting? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks Matt
Hi Ian, This was a wonderful video to see for a hybrid photographer like myself. I own a Canon Pro100 dye based photo printer and have heard that this is unsuitable for contact printing alternative processes. It makes fantastic positive prints, btw. I saw in another comment that you are using “pigment inks” in this printer? Could you elaborate? Thanks
Ian, thanks for this video...I've been waiting for this since your last video. Just wondering if you had any issues making your negative with your Canon printer? I've read that the Canon doesn't do well in this regard. Any thoughts? Also what do you do with your chemistry when you're done?
Thanks buddy. Yeah i think the canon does well, the pigment inks help as well. In term of my chemistry, they are all reusable, the developer actually improves with age, like a fine wine 👍👍
I’ve got a stupid question to do with the digital negative, why do we bother flipping it horizontally? The negative is transparent, can’t you just flip it the correct way after printing? Am I missing something obvious here? 😅
Good video, Ian. One thing I have learned with this process is to decide on your workflow and then stick to it. For example, I use a single clearing tray which is 30g each of EDTA and bisulfite in a litre of water. Sadly palladium is now getting too expensive to make this process affordable for home users (mainly because the supply is controlled by a single country so it's in their interest to keep the price high) so I have started to research kallitypes which are closely relate.
and printing "free money" by sleepy Joe is making it worse. the dollar has on value. plenty of metals in the USA, but the whiny NIMBYs won't allow mining therefore pushing the mining to countries that exploit people and destroy the environment. Thank a Democrat!!
Hi Ian, I tried your process today to calibrate the UV box that I have built following the Tim Layton tutorial. I tried that with the Bostick & Sullivan starting kit (7 drops Palladium Solution #3 , 7 drops Ferric Oxalate Solution #1 and 2 drops 5% Sodium Platinum Solution Na2) then my starting time was 2 minutes and 12 steps of 20 seconds. The graduation of grey is very different from yours in the video. The part of paper not covered by the Picto sheet comes out full black very quickly (from the third step till the end) and I have same black on the other side with maybe 6 minutes exposure time, but every thing looks really dark, even the other steps. My graduation is from dark to black, not from grey to black. What could you suggest as new testing times or maybe also chemistry change ? Of course I can now try to create my first negative to make a first real print but I presume that it would be better to have previously correctly calibrated my box. Thanks a lot by advance for your answer.
I recommend calibrating with a 50step test wedge, ideally printed with your digital negative system of choice. My exposures printing from original (in camera Large Format) negatives range anywhere from 90 seconds to 20 minutes. Printing from digital negatives should be fairly consistent, but generally only a few minutes. My digital negatives from standard color inkjet were around 3 minutes. Negatives from Piezography Digital Negatives end up at 5 minutes. I offer one-on-one pt/pd workshops at my lab - Hidden Light. Feel free to reach out!
The uneven black edges around the print look really cool too
Nice presentation! Taking a platinum/palladium class tomorrow and you've given me a great head start!
Your print has a cooler tone than other platinum prints on youtube which seem warmer. I really like the cooler tone you achieved with your image.
Many thanks 🙏🙏👍
I create negatives in the camera, whether it's platinum, gelatin silver, or copperplate photogravure (which requires a positive transparency) ... I was fortunate to learn all the controls required before computers were even talked about. I've even done everything without any electricity at all.
Excellent job with the video very informative I also like the English accent nice one Cyril!
The printing world is completely new to me, but I believe it's the last step in the photo process so I'm trying to print more this year. This video was quite technical for me but it was absolutely brilliant, loved watching the process.
edit: I'll go as far to say this has been the best video I've watched on RUclips for a long time.
Thank you for the kind words Robbie, its a bit of a niche process but its thoroughly enjoyable. 👍👍🙏
Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge in such a pleasant fashion.
I just came across this video. Nice presentation, especially for folks like me that are just getting started! Thank you
Many thanks 🙏🙏👍
Fascinating. It goes to show what can be achieved at home with the time, proper kit, patience, and some know-how. Baby steps for me for now. Get to grips with just editing and printing to an inkjet printer. I bought the Canon 100s 2 years ago....to my chagrin. I haven't really done anything since I bought it. The first (and only) print then was darker than expected compared to that displayed on a calibrated screen .
Thanks Brian, yes I always increase my exposure, contrast and saturation a little for my prints, otherwise they will come out darker than expected 🙏👍👍
Thanks for taking the mystery out of this process.
Really excellent summary. Cheers!
Excellent - this will happen here.......thank you
Wonderful! Thanks Mark 👍👍🙏
Brilliant Ian, very interesting and informative.
Glad you enjoyed it 🙏🙏👍
Thank you. This is so fascinating.
Thanks Ian, very interesting.
Glad you enjoyed it Rodg 👍👍
Fascinating! Well done, Ian.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍👍🙏
Thank you very much Ian
Great tutorial, thank you
Great video and I am starting to learn about Palladium. I have a question: why did you say that the pure black in the tset strip is the right exposure time? I am not sure if I followed this aspect. Thanks so much for your time and great video. Cheers
Hi Ian
I really enjoyed your video!
I’ve just ran out of pictorico and it’s impossible to get hold of any in the uk at the minute.
Is the fotospeed transparency the same as the pictorico or will I need to make some adjustments to the printer setting?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Matt
Love it! Subscribed!
Hi Ian,
This was a wonderful video to see for a hybrid photographer like myself. I own a Canon Pro100 dye based photo printer and have heard that this is unsuitable for contact printing alternative processes. It makes fantastic positive prints, btw. I saw in another comment that you are using “pigment inks” in this printer? Could you elaborate?
Thanks
Ian - very nice!
Many thanks! 👍👍
Ian, thanks for this video...I've been waiting for this since your last video. Just wondering if you had any issues making your negative with your Canon printer? I've read that the Canon doesn't do well in this regard. Any thoughts? Also what do you do with your chemistry when you're done?
Thanks buddy. Yeah i think the canon does well, the pigment inks help as well. In term of my chemistry, they are all reusable, the developer actually improves with age, like a fine wine 👍👍
@@ian_worth are the chemicals toxic if inhaled??
What glass do you use for printing frame, as I understand it most available glass comes with some uv protection in them?
Amazing!!! I only have one question... Can I use D76 as a developer?
no and the chemicals are shockingly expensive now. thank a democrat for that!!
where see you platinum palladium landscapes ?
I’ve got a stupid question to do with the digital negative, why do we bother flipping it horizontally? The negative is transparent, can’t you just flip it the correct way after printing? Am I missing something obvious here? 😅
Where are links to products talked about?
Is it possible to use the sun to expose like cyanotype?
Yes it is. It's something I would like to experiment with 👍👍
Irving Penn’s cigarettes are platinum prints
1000 years on a paper ? 😉
а без компьютера никак? херня это только что бы лайки получать...
I’d just love to know which cretin (come forward, out yourself!) disliked this. And why.
There's always one, LOL 👍👍
Kind of like a .... thousand year Reich?
why am I looking at this guy's face for almost the entire video? and I still have no idea what he's talking about,
Good video, Ian. One thing I have learned with this process is to decide on your workflow and then stick to it. For example, I use a single clearing tray which is 30g each of EDTA and bisulfite in a litre of water.
Sadly palladium is now getting too expensive to make this process affordable for home users (mainly because the supply is controlled by a single country so it's in their interest to keep the price high) so I have started to research kallitypes which are closely relate.
Thanks for sharing Your tips! 🙏🙏😊
and printing "free money" by sleepy Joe is making it worse. the dollar has on value. plenty of metals in the USA, but the whiny NIMBYs won't allow mining therefore pushing the mining to countries that exploit people and destroy the environment. Thank a Democrat!!
@@jackjones6910 You clearly have no idea why the price of palladium is so high. I suggest you go do some research before posting this BS.
Hi Ian, I tried your process today to calibrate the UV box that I have built following the Tim Layton tutorial. I tried that with the Bostick & Sullivan starting kit (7 drops Palladium Solution #3 , 7 drops Ferric Oxalate Solution #1 and 2 drops 5% Sodium Platinum Solution Na2) then my starting time was 2 minutes and 12 steps of 20 seconds. The graduation of grey is very different from yours in the video. The part of paper not covered by the Picto sheet comes out full black very quickly (from the third step till the end) and I have same black on the other side with maybe 6 minutes exposure time, but every thing looks really dark, even the other steps. My graduation is from dark to black, not from grey to black.
What could you suggest as new testing times or maybe also chemistry change ? Of course I can now try to create my first negative to make a first real print but I presume that it would be better to have previously correctly calibrated my box. Thanks a lot by advance for your answer.
I recommend calibrating with a 50step test wedge, ideally printed with your digital negative system of choice. My exposures printing from original (in camera Large Format) negatives range anywhere from 90 seconds to 20 minutes. Printing from digital negatives should be fairly consistent, but generally only a few minutes. My digital negatives from standard color inkjet were around 3 minutes. Negatives from Piezography Digital Negatives end up at 5 minutes.
I offer one-on-one pt/pd workshops at my lab - Hidden Light. Feel free to reach out!