Great video for a simple quick clean up of a spot as you said it is a quick for a simple fix not a masterpiece show car. I'm sure if you wanted you could have put a rust converter over the bare then some self etching primer body filler then the other. But then you would have had to call it more than a simple repair LOL great job Toyota would be proud keeping another great vehicle lasting longer
Best comment so far. Some people are commenting as if I cut corners on restoring a 69 Camaro. It's just a Toyota Camry with almost a quarter-million miles that I bought for $500. I used rust inhibitor on my nicer vehicle repairs - See my TSX or 85 Toyota vids for that. This Camry is just a cheap daily here in Ohio, where road salt eats vehicles from the underside.
6th Gear Garage good work! anyway, i have a question. what is the process if im going to apply some rust converter after the bare metal? im just confuse of what is next to apply after treating the rust with rust converter. thankyou
@@carlolicuanan719 I would follow the instructions of the specific product you use., as there are different types of converters. Some you can prime over, and continue the body work.
@@6thGearGarage As a Camry person with a modified Camry, it's not just a Camry :p lol, also would prefer my Camry over the Camaro. That said, a good quick repair doesn't need to be perfect, just enough to stop the rust from growing.
@@matthewfarrell317 Thanks, I agree. With the high miles and being an ohio car that sees road salt, a spot returning above the windshield is the least of my worries. Around here cars rot underneath faster than they rust on the surface. I'm happy to make the exterior look better and get a few more years out of it.
Hi Mate, a few improvements that will assist you and your viewers. Once you have sanded all the flaky rust away, always use a rust converter to neutralize the active rust before putting filler over the top as it will de-laminate in a few years otherwise. Something like phosphoric acid will work perfectly and is cheap. Once you use wax and grease remover/ prepsol, don't touch with bare hands (like you did before etch primer) as this will transfer grease from your fingers and hands and could cause 'fish eyes' in your paint.
I have never figured out what you're supposed to do with phosphoric acid after it has done its job. Do I just leave it there or am I supposed to wipe it off and if yes then with what?
Yeh wash it off with water after its been on for 30 mins or so, or as long as possible before it dries, (otherwise it'll dry with phosphoric acid crystals on it, which will eat away at the metal if left there long term because its acidic.) Then dry with hot air asap, then paint asap after that.@@Sceme1991
I'm 76. Was in auto body repair many years ago. You've made a complete seamless representation of the steps needed to address the issue at hand. Thank you, Paul in Canada
The '89 Toyota is rusting like crazy and I can't afford a body shop. This is a great vid! Nothing but the facts. No crazy lead-in chat, no music, just good instructions and visual details! Mahalo!
I have a rust bubble like yours on my hood. This was a truly excellent tutorial. I learned more in just the first 3 minutes (yes, I checked!) than I did watching several other videos on here. I now have the confidence & knowledge to tackle my hood. I can't emphasize enough how much this has helped! Might even make a video when I repair it in the spring. Thank You!
Thanks my friend. It takes guys like you to encourage guys like me who don’t have a bunch of confidence or know how to see even a small job through. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos. From Nova Scotia, Lester
The major issue with this is when you showed the pit u said to use spot putty, to the left is rust. The dark black/brown is rust. Wire brush won't get rid of it all. Only sand blasting or use a rust reformer or acid. You can do all the nice work and paint but not worth the time and money when rust bleeds through in 3 months. I use Ospho. I know this because I did this when I was a young man restoring a 72 VW Bug. I did same as you and it rusted through in 6 months. Then a girl filling with gas day after I repainted, pump didnt kick off and my new paint job bubbled from the gas. So 3rd times was a charm. I learned from a grumpy old man that if you do a great job on prep you can paint with a spray cans and still look good! Gotta get rid of all that rust. Even if you don't see it, rust will be at the bottom of those tiny pits. If it was there it will be there until you use sand, acid etc Use whatever you want but use it and have it 100% rust free. Other than that it was a good video. I'm not breaking your balls I just want your work to hold up and be as good as it can. Even a newbie if following all the steps can get any job dam near perfect. We're judged by our work. And we all make mistakes.
Great job! Bought a 2013 Sierra. Has this problem on the roof as well. I was going to spend $1000 to have a shop repair it but you convinced me to do it. Thanks for sharing. You saved me and my family a ton of cash!
If brown was still there in pits that means you left rust. It will be back again. Use rust converter at bare minimum, then epoxy paint. Then fill it. Then paint it.
@@dharm3974 I'm not an expert but I have placed filler over rust converter after a light sand. No issues to date. I do see a lot of debate around the whether you should prime before you fill, or fill before you prime. All experts, all different opinions. I typically prime first just to be sure but I wouldn't like to say that its the only way. I 100% agree with PaddleDodC5 though, there is certainly a risk of recurring rust. Doing 'something' is better than having to do it again.
@@mikebennett938 Thanks for the advice, man. I'm new to body/paint work of any kind so trying to figure it out. But I agree, seems like if you're going to go through all the work of repairing it you may as well do it as good as possible.
@@dharm3974 I'm reasonably new to it as well, although I am getting more confident. I can pull out dents, apply filler properly and paint. I've painted whole cars. I've even custom made whole panels and welded them in. It's fun :). The only real advice I can give is practice, practice, practice! Start small and examine your mistakes, then try again. It's ok to not be perfect, I'm certainly not. I think there is one professional who says it really well on youtube, it's only paint! if you get it wrong, sand it off, try again. If you can afford it and have the space, go and buy the biggest piece of crap you can find and practice on it. Hopefuly it's a piece of crap you can enjoy long term though. Happy tinkering :)
@@dharm3974 I just found this, finally someone who actually shows why primer needs to go first and what will happen if you don't: ruclips.net/video/kgDRPeM7Obw/видео.html
@Max When you own a $10,000 car you don't want a $10,000 paint job friend. 🤣 No one can afford professional body shops. If it wasn't for insurance companies you guys wouldn't have a job.
If you're going to use body filler to make the repaired area smooth you may as well remove those blackened areas - because that is where the rust will come back from. I'd use a Dremel to drill out the blackened areas and sneak in some epoxy and fibre-glass underneath the area to give a string surface for the filler to bond to. I've done the type of repair shown in this video and the rust always starts to re-bubble after 12 months.
Agreed. Rust is automotive cancer. If you leave anything behind, it's going to grow and create the same damage within a year or a little more. The Dremel tool gives you the same ability and precision of a dentist's drill to remove all visible spots of oxidation (just as the dentist treats a cavity). Apply two coats of a rust converter to treat the specs of oxidation which may not even be visible to the naked eye and allow the converter to convert for at least 24 hours before proceeding to filler. I repaired three similar rust spots in 2004 on my 1999 GMC Safari van and they have never reappeared.
After applying the body filler I wouldn’t go back with a 80 grit. I’d just hit it with a 150 grit and bring it down smooth, then spot filler. Then 500 grit, followed by 800 or 1000 grit.
Very helpful. Got a few rust bubbles on my f150 which is 14 years old so I’m not wanting to pay someone to fix something so simple. I’ll most likely be giving this a try this weekend. Thank you for the help.
Thank you for your helpful DIY tips. I've got over a decade of professional certified hand spraying under my belt for airplanes. Tips like these on a used daily driver and to have it coming out looking good for not a lot of money is what I look for. Sure beats touch up paint in a tube..lol! I have several cars/trucks and both foreign and domestic. I always liked my VW's for a fun, sporty, daily driver. I own 2 as of now. My nicest one is one I searched for. It is a 2009 Jetta GLI 2.0 turbo manual shift in top condition. My second is a 2010 Jetta SEL 2.5 with a DCT trans and every option you can think of. I found it down south needing work, but in great overall condition. Just some normal scratches and a small rust bubble on each fender. It had average miles of just over 90K, but the owners neglected oil changes, and probably the right oil for that matter. The inside of the engine was filthy and it was out of time from a stretched timing chain. I made a deal with them and trailered it home to fix back up as a DD. If the interior wasn't like brand new and being the top of the line SEL package I would of passed on it. Not to mention the body was in very good shape for the year. I decided to source a used engine instead because of the gunky build up in the engine from negligence. I found a matching 25,000 mile engine in clean like new condition for $700..Wished I could find a 2.0 Turbo for that kind of money. Well anyway I decided to get the matching DCT that came with that engine as well for an additional $500. All said and done I have under 3K total in the car and it looks, drives, and runs like a brand new car. If you have the know how and take your time you can save a lot of cash. Plus they are a nice car too. Man I was surprised as how strong that inline NA 5 cylinder turned out to be. I let my son drive it and drag race my GLI at the local track in the 1/4 mile..He actually pulled me through the 1/8th and I barely ran him down at the 1/4...I was impressed for just a daily driver that also looks cool and handles and drives great. Well worth the $3k and my time...sorry for the book..its videos like yours that help us diy'ers the most. thanks.
You should wait a few weeks before waxing. The paint needs that time to fully "cure". You dont want to seal the paint to soon as it needs to breathe until hard. Not a bad for a quick repair though. One good trick to get a level finish is to make the first primer coat very light, sand very lightly with a block sander. The low spots will show the primer. Thin coat of spot putty over those low areas, sand smooth. Thin primer coat and light block sand. ect.
Really clear instructions, probably one of the best I’ve seen. Can I just say, leave the lacquer to cure for 24 hours before polishing, it’s still soft before then and might not polish up as well
You can use a Dremel tool to remove the rust on small areas and apply a rust converter to pitted areas before priming and adding filler. Always apply your primer both before and after adding any filler. Also if the surface is smooth without any pitting or bare metal exposed you can usually paint over the converted rust directly.
That’s amazing. For a few rattle cans, that is a great job. I’m about to fix some spots I just found on my 17 tundra and haven’t done body work or paint in 20 years. I didn’t know there were spray cans of match paint. Thank you.
Good video for a 500 car. Try using clear blender to blend in the edges of the clear coat. It comes in a can also. It won't leave an edge of the new clear on old paint. Nice job
Very good video. Biggest mistake i make is in the spraying. Definately light dusting with the spray can is way to go. takes longer and time consuming waiting for the drying but the results are a waste of time spraying to heavily. Lots of light coats is best. Lighter and more often the better.
Finally, someone who did this THE RIGHT WAY!! Everyone else misses the clear coat step, and instead, they just use wax... My question to them is , what do you do when the wax wears off? They also didn't feather it in like you did. The difference is like night and day!
That's a darn nice looking car for a $500 "beater". Great job on the rust repair. I never had any luck with clear coat, and now I think I know what I was doing wrong.
Great video but you should have used rust converter before the filler, and when you have finished painting you need to leave it at least 4 weeks before applying any waxes or sealants to let the paint 'gas out'.
I did this kinda work on my Tercel when I was a kid. The Tercel had too much rust for me to want to complete the whole body. What I did do, I didn’t use clear coat and it looked pretty nice. I didn’t protect the plastic or the glass... learned that the hard way 😂 fun times. Now I take meticulous care of my car and don’t let it start rusting Or having mechanical problems.
I always s love reading all the Monday morning quarterbacking on these types of repairs. This guy done a good job on an inexpensive car. Get over it people!
But all that work only produced mediocre results. Better to do the right way, it'll only come back and this what we get when we buy used cars at used car dealers. Quick, unreliable, and temp fixes that look good at the dealership, but once you get them home.... 1 month later you have the same issue.
Great video! This kind of thing always amazes me after everything is done, and how close you can get to making it look good with comparatively minimal effort and cost!
Thanks for this. When you own a GMC Sierra, you learn a lot about rust bubbles. What I find amazing is that it took just 4 years from the factory for my truck to get a rust bubble. It's 2020, IMO, cars shouldn't rust for a very long time. Mini has a 10 year warranty on rust because the chassis and metal panels are all dip coated. The rest is plastic. Anyway, thanks for the video, have some bubbles to bust. Gonna skip the buffing because it's truck and I don't care about a full finish.
Great DIY video, BUT, I can almost guarantee you that the rust is starting from the seam underneath the windshield urethane, rock chips never bubble up like that unless they're 10-20 years old. Once the rust eats enough of the metal under the urethane, you'll get a leaky windshield in the rain and that will cause major floor pan rust. This is all caused by poor windshield installation and the installer not using a primer before they lay the bead of urethane. I totally get that it's a cheap car but just keep that in mind for future reference, or if anyone else is attempting to do this they should note that it's not a permanent repair. It's about $100 to have your windshield removed, many glass companies will come to your house and do it, and you can follow the same steps in this video for fixing any rust under there MINUS the body filler, just remove the rust and leave the metal pitted, the urethane takes the shape of the metal so any imperfections are okay to leave. Then body fill any necessary areas ASIDE from the seam, primer and paint the entire repair area and have the windshield PROPERLY installed again.
Classified When you spend $5000. for one you worry about crap like that, but when you spend five hundred you don't worry about anything. Not questioning you, but insurance cost more than the car's worth. That's how you live way under budget and don't sweat the little shit. If it doesn't purr like you want, fk it, just call the junk yard and look for another $500. ride. :-D
Bent Nickel I get that, but people will be doing this on nice vehicles thinking they’re doing a good job. It’s important that they know it is not a permanent fix, not really a fix at all. Kind of like slapping a fender flare over a rusted wheel well. Might as well fix it properly before you’ve got rust holes if you plan on keeping the vehicle. For the work involved, having the glass pulled isn’t anything more than $100 on your part, you won’t even be doing the work and you can fix it right that way.
I’m about to feather the paint lines and put on some clear coat! Thank you for the guidance. I was happy with the limited scope because my goal is to have the undercarriage and body last longer than the motor. That is not easy to do on salty winter roads, but now I’m more dangerous with this job in my car repair repertoire. 😎
I just had my Body Shop do this same repair. They couldn't get the windshield edge without removing the glass so we are gonna do that next and just replace it.
Thank you! I had some paint chipping on my roof and rear quarter panel. With your tutorial, I was able to fix it. However, my result was far from perfect-the blend was noticeable. For some reason, the new paint looks darker at the blend (the color code is correct). I think I might have messed up with the clear coat. Still, the paint doesn’t chip anymore, so that’s already a good result.
This was an excellent quality repair. Quality means adherence to specification, so while it may not be a top spec repair, it was well executed to meet that spec.
@@ScandiSledder8000 if there are any pits, rust will come back. I sanded the edges of a metal door last december, used some filler on the pits and bumps and applied 2 coats of anticorrosive primer, and 2 of color (no clear since it was a door). it is now september and rust came back in the same areas. This time will try some metal conditioner. some primer and then the filler.
Really appreciate you sharing this. I currently have this issue on my car in a number of spots. I was quoted $1,500 for repairs and needless to say the idea of just slapping a glob of sealing glue or the like felt like a cheap alternative. Though I knew I wanted something that would actually fix my car, not just be a "duct tape" fix. This is exactly what I needed to see so I can feel confident to fix my car on my own... or convince my friend who actually works on cars to try something new. Out of curiosity, if you had to ball park the cost of your tools and supplies for this job, where would you hit at? Seeing if I can save up money to budget for this. I assume it will be less than $1,500.
I would guess maybe $100 for materials. I have links to the products used in the description if you wanted to price them out. It's absolutely worth trying it yourself!
What I dont get is why people dont treat the metal before covering it with filler. I found a rust inhibitor liquid that I spray on the exposed metal and then proceed to fill it up. No bubbles come back, ever.
Dude, YOU ARE A SAINT! We were recently ripped off by a Gypsy "Dent Fixer". These assholes come down to S. Florida when the snow birds ( winter residents) return. They spot a car with dents and get our attention, pull over where they offer a Deal on fixing the dents ..Immediately, at where ever we can both pull over into a parking lot. Then they proceed to do a terrible job and are paid, and off into the wind. My elderly female neighbor was hit yesterday to the tune of $900, yes that's $900 !! and the job was pure crap. Now she is stuck with looking for someone to fix the Gypsy body man's bad job. By the way we live in a mobile home community for 55 years + and as he was working another Gypsy drove by with flyers for roofing work. I heard them speak briefly in a language unknown to me. Previously , thinking Ritchie the Gypsy body man was Latino because of his dark skin, I spoke to him in Spanish and he admitted he didn't know Spanish. Anyway Ritchie quickly stopped the roofer from communicating and pushed him to drive quickly away. Since I was a retired roofer and told Ritchie as much, Ritchiie told me to throw the flyer away as the roofer was no good. Then I remarked that the roofer must have been a Gypsy and Ritchie agreed. I finally put it all together, why Ritchie said he had a rental pickup truck thereby leaving his business cards in his truck which was being fixed. I believe if he gave anyone a card he could be arrested for doing business w/o a license, a serious offence here in S. Fla since after Huge Hurricane "Andrew" destroyed much in 1985 where so many lost big money to Gypsy roofers. Now I feel I should try to track down Ritchie and get money returned for my neighbor. If you readers don't know much about Gypsy's , study them. Pure inbred bandits.
this is awesome people always tell me if one spot of my car is messed up paint the whole car because that spot would look newer than the whole car but I'm like I think they trying to get over and make me spend more money because you can make it match the whole car's paint old paint and you just proved it is possible thank you
Very Nicely Done Sir!! Thanks for Sharing!! You may consider yourself to be an ordinary Guy who is putting out simple information but, In my eyes, you illustrate and communicate just as good if not better then those who consider themselves to be more to the professional side of the business. Thanks again! Please continue to put out the GOOD STUFF!!
great video ! exsplained well . just a tip after your ready to start priming wet the gardge floor or drive way .youll be suprised how much dust that will knock down .then do everything as you exsplained making sure the floor stays wet if you go for coffee between coats.
An easy way of spraying less primer is order small fan pattern spray can tips. You can order them from most graffiti shops online. It's helped me a ton
Thanks. I'm not planning to go into all the detail you did and I couldn't care less what my Caravan will look like afterward, but I just wanted a way to make sure that when I cover it up with Tremclad or whatever, that the rust wouldn't "bleed" back through. We bought our 2016 Caravan last summer and the dealership (or previous owner) had covered up some chipped paint with some sort of paint, and rust is now coming through. I see i have to make sure I sand down to the BARE METAL and make sure all the rust is gone, before I even attempt to paint. Thanks!
@@6thGearGarage I tried that on a previous vehicle, but the rust still came through. So I'm thinking grinding away all the rust is what will make the difference.
Thanks man! Saves me taking my almost dead car in yet again! I had the opposite problem, I could only move forward. I had to do some yoga pose just to sit in the car!
Can you give a brand and exact name? I searched "epoxy rust removal spray" and some "krylon rust protector spray came up". I have corroseal, is that what your talking about?
I've been hating my paint job lately and scared as hell to take the many rust spots/bubbling paint down to bare metal. This video gives me a little more confidence that just maybe I could do a decent enough job. I have a 2006 Scion xB that i love, except the exterior condition. Great video and thanks for posting it. I'm trying to learn about video editing as well and am thinking this would be a great video for me to attempt. If ANYONE has a step or two that he missed or absolutely nailed, please let me know. I'm now sort of excited to try this. Thanks man. Excellent video
@@6thGearGarage first and foremost thanks for responding to my comment. I appreciate that. Second of all I don't know much about paint on cars so I really couldn't answer that question, but I do have a ton of rock chips on the hood and I've got a big rust spot on my driver side door from where the paint got scratched and was never taken care of. On top of that I've noticed above my windshield I have a lot of small bubbling paint areas so I can only assume that rust is forming underneath there.
@Jacob T. If thats a why? Your hands are naturally oily, if you touch the clean surface it can contaminate the surface and cause the paint or primer to lift or have whats called fish eye.
I've been doing body work probably longer than you have been alive. You can't just sand rust and put body fill over it! to properly remove rust it MUST be sandblasted. The pits still have rust in them and will keep working, you will see your work start to bubble in a short time. I get it a lot of people don't have access to a sand blaster so the least that should be done before adding your body fill is to use a "sealer-rust converter" which in some cases doubles as a primer, it isn't a perfect scenario but it will buy some extra time for your repair.
would it be possible to sand the areas down, cover them and bring them to a shop to sandblast, than take back and prep it for them to paint? I just recently bought a car and wanna make it nice, and I'm hoping to find ways to do this sort of thing the right way but cheaper. I don't plan on doing cosmetic repairs soon though, so if that's not possible than I will live
@@Lysergic_ I think that’s why he used self etching primer it’s a rust preventing coat basically but it doesn’t fully seal that’s why you use the prime filler after
Great video for a simple quick clean up of a spot as you said it is a quick for a simple fix not a masterpiece show car.
I'm sure if you wanted you could have put a rust converter over the bare then some self etching primer body filler then the other. But then you would have had to call it more than a simple repair LOL great job Toyota would be proud keeping another great vehicle lasting longer
Best comment so far. Some people are commenting as if I cut corners on restoring a 69 Camaro. It's just a Toyota Camry with almost a quarter-million miles that I bought for $500. I used rust inhibitor on my nicer vehicle repairs - See my TSX or 85 Toyota vids for that. This Camry is just a cheap daily here in Ohio, where road salt eats vehicles from the underside.
6th Gear Garage good work! anyway, i have a question. what is the process if im going to apply some rust converter after the bare metal? im just confuse of what is next to apply after treating the rust with rust converter. thankyou
@@carlolicuanan719 I would follow the instructions of the specific product you use., as there are different types of converters. Some you can prime over, and continue the body work.
@@6thGearGarage As a Camry person with a modified Camry, it's not just a Camry :p lol, also would prefer my Camry over the Camaro.
That said, a good quick repair doesn't need to be perfect, just enough to stop the rust from growing.
@@matthewfarrell317 Thanks, I agree. With the high miles and being an ohio car that sees road salt, a spot returning above the windshield is the least of my worries. Around here cars rot underneath faster than they rust on the surface. I'm happy to make the exterior look better and get a few more years out of it.
Hi Mate, a few improvements that will assist you and your viewers. Once you have sanded all the flaky rust away, always use a rust converter to neutralize the active rust before putting filler over the top as it will de-laminate in a few years otherwise. Something like phosphoric acid will work perfectly and is cheap.
Once you use wax and grease remover/ prepsol, don't touch with bare hands (like you did before etch primer) as this will transfer grease from your fingers and hands and could cause 'fish eyes' in your paint.
Thank you for the advice!
very helpful thanks
I have never figured out what you're supposed to do with phosphoric acid after it has done its job. Do I just leave it there or am I supposed to wipe it off and if yes then with what?
@@Sceme1991 Just wash it off with warm water, that's at least what was recommended in the bottle I used.
Yeh wash it off with water after its been on for 30 mins or so, or as long as possible before it dries, (otherwise it'll dry with phosphoric acid crystals on it, which will eat away at the metal if left there long term because its acidic.) Then dry with hot air asap, then paint asap after that.@@Sceme1991
I'm 76. Was in auto body repair many years ago. You've made a complete seamless representation of the steps needed to address the issue at hand. Thank you, Paul in Canada
PS: If you don't care for the video then prepare to pay $100 per hour for a local body shop to do it (minimum 5-6 hrs). From me, Paul Ross
The '89 Toyota is rusting like crazy and I can't afford a body shop. This is a great vid! Nothing but the facts. No crazy lead-in chat, no music, just good instructions and visual details! Mahalo!
Minor rust repair & painting just got a whole lot less intimidating, thank you!
I have a rust bubble like yours on my hood. This was a truly excellent tutorial. I learned more in just the first 3 minutes (yes, I checked!) than I did watching several other videos on here. I now have the confidence & knowledge to tackle my hood. I can't emphasize enough how much this has helped! Might even make a video when I repair it in the spring. Thank You!
how did your repair go?
@@HavokBWR he died :(
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4 ruclips.net/video/lbb4xwYj19g/видео.html
How to get saved
@@FallenLions Dam rust kills us all!!
@@jasonchristopher2977 so true. may he rest in peace. im also taking the journey to repair my rust spots on my hood and other things
Thanks my friend. It takes guys like you to encourage guys like me who don’t have a bunch of confidence or know how to see even a small job through. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos. From Nova Scotia, Lester
The major issue with this is when you showed the pit u said to use spot putty, to the left is rust. The dark black/brown is rust. Wire brush won't get rid of it all. Only sand blasting or use a rust reformer or acid. You can do all the nice work and paint but not worth the time and money when rust bleeds through in 3 months. I use Ospho. I know this because I did this when I was a young man restoring a 72 VW Bug. I did same as you and it rusted through in 6 months. Then a girl filling with gas day after I repainted, pump didnt kick off and my new paint job bubbled from the gas. So 3rd times was a charm.
I learned from a grumpy old man that if you do a great job on prep you can paint with a spray cans and still look good! Gotta get rid of all that rust. Even if you don't see it, rust will be at the bottom of those tiny pits. If it was there it will be there until you use sand, acid etc Use whatever you want but use it and have it 100% rust free. Other than that it was a good video. I'm not breaking your balls I just want your work to hold up and be as good as it can. Even a newbie if following all the steps can get any job dam near perfect. We're judged by our work. And we all make mistakes.
Thank you for the advice!
I've watched this video like 10 times already while fixing up my project car. Great video tutorial, thank you for putting this together.
Great job! Bought a 2013 Sierra. Has this problem on the roof as well. I was going to spend $1000 to have a shop repair it but you convinced me to do it. Thanks for sharing. You saved me and my family a ton of cash!
Glad it helped
If brown was still there in pits that means you left rust. It will be back again. Use rust converter at bare minimum, then epoxy paint. Then fill it. Then paint it.
Does filler adhere to rust converter better than bare metal?
@@dharm3974 I'm not an expert but I have placed filler over rust converter after a light sand. No issues to date. I do see a lot of debate around the whether you should prime before you fill, or fill before you prime. All experts, all different opinions. I typically prime first just to be sure but I wouldn't like to say that its the only way. I 100% agree with PaddleDodC5 though, there is certainly a risk of recurring rust. Doing 'something' is better than having to do it again.
@@mikebennett938 Thanks for the advice, man. I'm new to body/paint work of any kind so trying to figure it out. But I agree, seems like if you're going to go through all the work of repairing it you may as well do it as good as possible.
@@dharm3974 I'm reasonably new to it as well, although I am getting more confident. I can pull out dents, apply filler properly and paint. I've painted whole cars. I've even custom made whole panels and welded them in. It's fun :). The only real advice I can give is practice, practice, practice! Start small and examine your mistakes, then try again. It's ok to not be perfect, I'm certainly not. I think there is one professional who says it really well on youtube, it's only paint! if you get it wrong, sand it off, try again. If you can afford it and have the space, go and buy the biggest piece of crap you can find and practice on it. Hopefuly it's a piece of crap you can enjoy long term though. Happy tinkering :)
@@dharm3974 I just found this, finally someone who actually shows why primer needs to go first and what will happen if you don't: ruclips.net/video/kgDRPeM7Obw/видео.html
Amateurs tip: Wet the floor down when painting to reduce dust contamination.
@Max advice for you...let amateurs do the work themselves if they want.
@Max When you own a $10,000 car you don't want a $10,000 paint job friend. 🤣 No one can afford professional body shops. If it wasn't for insurance companies you guys wouldn't have a job.
Your a Genius . Thanks !
Parked in building basement which gets one cleaning each year. This tip is useful for me. Thanks Peter.
@Max advice for advisors....let the humble amateurs throw in the toupence worth 🤷♂️
If you're going to use body filler to make the repaired area smooth you may as well remove those blackened areas - because that is where the rust will come back from. I'd use a Dremel to drill out the blackened areas and sneak in some epoxy and fibre-glass underneath the area to give a string surface for the filler to bond to.
I've done the type of repair shown in this video and the rust always starts to re-bubble after 12 months.
No need for that. Just use a rust inhibitor like POR15 on it.
Agreed. Rust is automotive cancer. If you leave anything behind, it's going to grow and create the same damage within a year or a little more. The Dremel tool gives you the same ability and precision of a dentist's drill to remove all visible spots of oxidation (just as the dentist treats a cavity). Apply two coats of a rust converter to treat the specs of oxidation which may not even be visible to the naked eye and allow the converter to convert for at least 24 hours before proceeding to filler. I repaired three similar rust spots in 2004 on my 1999 GMC Safari van and they have never reappeared.
in sweden we do spot blasting only took 5 minutes then the rust will not come back
@@chrisgraham2904what rust converter do you use for car metal?
@@chrisgraham2904 wouldn't etch primer also prevent rust from coming back?
After applying the body filler I wouldn’t go back with a 80 grit. I’d just hit it with a 150 grit and bring it down smooth, then spot filler. Then 500 grit, followed by 800 or 1000 grit.
Very helpful. Got a few rust bubbles on my f150 which is 14 years old so I’m not wanting to pay someone to fix something so simple. I’ll most likely be giving this a try this weekend. Thank you for the help.
That was an outstanding, clean, and to the point video.
Thank you for your helpful DIY tips. I've got over a decade of professional certified hand spraying under my belt for airplanes. Tips like these on a used daily driver and to have it coming out looking good for not a lot of money is what I look for. Sure beats touch up paint in a tube..lol! I have several cars/trucks and both foreign and domestic. I always liked my VW's for a fun, sporty, daily driver. I own 2 as of now. My nicest one is one I searched for. It is a 2009 Jetta GLI 2.0 turbo manual shift in top condition. My second is a 2010 Jetta SEL 2.5 with a DCT trans and every option you can think of. I found it down south needing work, but in great overall condition. Just some normal scratches and a small rust bubble on each fender. It had average miles of just over 90K, but the owners neglected oil changes, and probably the right oil for that matter. The inside of the engine was filthy and it was out of time from a stretched timing chain. I made a deal with them and trailered it home to fix back up as a DD. If the interior wasn't like brand new and being the top of the line SEL package I would of passed on it. Not to mention the body was in very good shape for the year. I decided to source a used engine instead because of the gunky build up in the engine from negligence. I found a matching 25,000 mile engine in clean like new condition for $700..Wished I could find a 2.0 Turbo for that kind of money. Well anyway I decided to get the matching DCT that came with that engine as well for an additional $500. All said and done I have under 3K total in the car and it looks, drives, and runs like a brand new car. If you have the know how and take your time you can save a lot of cash. Plus they are a nice car too. Man I was surprised as how strong that inline NA 5 cylinder turned out to be. I let my son drive it and drag race my GLI at the local track in the 1/4 mile..He actually pulled me through the 1/8th and I barely ran him down at the 1/4...I was impressed for just a daily driver that also looks cool and handles and drives great. Well worth the $3k and my time...sorry for the book..its videos like yours that help us diy'ers the most. thanks.
You should wait a few weeks before waxing. The paint needs that time to fully "cure". You dont want to seal the paint to soon as it needs to breathe until hard. Not a bad for a quick repair though. One good trick to get a level finish is to make the first primer coat very light, sand very lightly with a block sander. The low spots will show the primer. Thin coat of spot putty over those low areas, sand smooth. Thin primer coat and light block sand. ect.
Really clear instructions, probably one of the best I’ve seen. Can I just say, leave the lacquer to cure for 24 hours before polishing, it’s still soft before then and might not polish up as well
Thank you and absolutely on letting the clear cure for 24 hrs.
You can use a Dremel tool to remove the rust on small areas and apply a rust converter to pitted areas before priming and adding filler. Always apply your primer both before and after adding any filler. Also if the surface is smooth without any pitting or bare metal exposed you can usually paint over the converted rust directly.
Filler should generally be applied to bare metal
While you CAN paint directly over converted rust/bare metal, it is better to etch prime it first.
Holy cow that is ALOT of steps and a very specific and extensive set of materials for just a 2 inch piece of rust!
D L yep, gotta fix it before it gets bigger
6th Gear Garage But don’t get me wrong, it looks like you did it right and a very good job. Thank you for posting this
Geez I can’t believe you did that in your garage. That was incredible
Thanks!
This guy knows what he’s doing. Not as easy as he makes it seems people
I have this same thing happening on my car, going to try the same repair and hope it blends in as well as yours
That’s amazing. For a few rattle cans, that is a great job. I’m about to fix some spots I just found on my 17 tundra and haven’t done body work or paint in 20 years. I didn’t know there were spray cans of match paint. Thank you.
You can get them at most parts stores, or I've even seen them on ebay/amazon.
Good video for a 500 car. Try using clear blender to blend in the edges of the clear coat. It comes in a can also. It won't leave an edge of the new clear on old paint. Nice job
Exactly! I was thinking the same thing
Best DIY paint video. I love they way you didn’t mask the entire car lol seems more reasonable than some other videos
Yeah it's really not needed with lacquer aerosol paint. its overspray turns into dust and doesn't stick to everything like a urethane paint does.
Very good video. Biggest mistake i make is in the spraying. Definately light dusting with the spray can is way to go. takes longer and time consuming waiting for the drying but the results are a waste of time spraying to heavily. Lots of light coats is best. Lighter and more often the better.
100% It's easy to go too heavy on the coats.
Finally, someone who did this THE RIGHT WAY!! Everyone else misses the clear coat step, and instead, they just use wax... My question to them is , what do you do when the wax wears off? They also didn't feather it in like you did. The difference is like night and day!
he didn't use a rust converter on the bare metal before filling over! that'll rust through in no time
Great demo! I think you made it look easy to novice DIY'ers. We frequently do these types of touch ups on some of our cheaper cars!
100% agreement!! - I never buy a new car. The one I have now cost me £450 and is still going 3 years on ..,,👍🏻
I’d never ever take my car to you. You guys are horrible at what you do
That's a darn nice looking car for a $500 "beater". Great job on the rust repair. I never had any luck with clear coat, and now I think I know what I was doing wrong.
Thanks 👍
Great video but you should have used rust converter before the filler, and when you have finished painting you need to leave it at least 4 weeks before applying any waxes or sealants to let the paint 'gas out'.
snake oil, doesnt work
@@EazyDuz18 what is snake oil?
Good, easy to understand clip, not boring narration like most videos, great video from KaapStaad in Suid Afrika
For what it is I would say thats pretty well done.
I did this kinda work on my Tercel when I was a kid. The Tercel had too much rust for me to want to complete the whole body. What I did do, I didn’t use clear coat and it looked pretty nice. I didn’t protect the plastic or the glass... learned that the hard way 😂 fun times. Now I take meticulous care of my car and don’t let it start rusting Or having mechanical problems.
I always s love reading all the Monday morning quarterbacking on these types of repairs. This guy done a good job on an inexpensive car. Get over it people!
But all that work only produced mediocre results. Better to do the right way, it'll only come back and this what we get when we buy used cars at used car dealers. Quick, unreliable, and temp fixes that look good at the dealership, but once you get them home.... 1 month later you have the same issue.
I never had seen a video like this before! Professional level! Thanks for share! Now, you have more a brazilian follower!
Great video! This kind of thing always amazes me after everything is done, and how close you can get to making it look good with comparatively minimal effort and cost!
One of the best dupli color jobs I’ve seen !
Nice fix! I like that Q-Tip idea too.
Thanks for this. When you own a GMC Sierra, you learn a lot about rust bubbles. What I find amazing is that it took just 4 years from the factory for my truck to get a rust bubble. It's 2020, IMO, cars shouldn't rust for a very long time.
Mini has a 10 year warranty on rust because the chassis and metal panels are all dip coated. The rest is plastic.
Anyway, thanks for the video, have some bubbles to bust. Gonna skip the buffing because it's truck and I don't care about a full finish.
Let me guess... you live in Ohio or Michigan?
@@6thGearGarage Pennsylvania. They chemical treat a 1/4" of snow. 🤣
A detail oriented DIY video that didn't make me cringe. Thank you.
Gorgeous job sir. Really shows how taking the time to make sure each step is done flawless is worth it.
Thank you very much!
Thank you 10k times being disabled I can't afford the "professional" job, but you made me confident I can do it myself. Love.
I really like how this video simplifies something that can be very intimidating
Great DIY video, BUT, I can almost guarantee you that the rust is starting from the seam underneath the windshield urethane, rock chips never bubble up like that unless they're 10-20 years old. Once the rust eats enough of the metal under the urethane, you'll get a leaky windshield in the rain and that will cause major floor pan rust. This is all caused by poor windshield installation and the installer not using a primer before they lay the bead of urethane. I totally get that it's a cheap car but just keep that in mind for future reference, or if anyone else is attempting to do this they should note that it's not a permanent repair.
It's about $100 to have your windshield removed, many glass companies will come to your house and do it, and you can follow the same steps in this video for fixing any rust under there MINUS the body filler, just remove the rust and leave the metal pitted, the urethane takes the shape of the metal so any imperfections are okay to leave. Then body fill any necessary areas ASIDE from the seam, primer and paint the entire repair area and have the windshield PROPERLY installed again.
Thanks for the advice!
Classified When you spend $5000. for one you worry about crap like that, but when you spend five hundred you don't worry about anything. Not questioning you, but insurance cost more than the car's worth. That's how you live way under budget and don't sweat the little shit. If it doesn't purr like you want, fk it, just call the junk yard and look for another $500. ride. :-D
Bent Nickel I get that, but people will be doing this on nice vehicles thinking they’re doing a good job. It’s important that they know it is not a permanent fix, not really a fix at all. Kind of like slapping a fender flare over a rusted wheel well. Might as well fix it properly before you’ve got rust holes if you plan on keeping the vehicle. For the work involved, having the glass pulled isn’t anything more than $100 on your part, you won’t even be doing the work and you can fix it right that way.
I’m about to feather the paint lines and put on some clear coat! Thank you for the guidance. I was happy with the limited scope because my goal is to have the undercarriage and body last longer than the motor. That is not easy to do on salty winter roads, but now I’m more dangerous with this job in my car repair repertoire. 😎
@@lscanlon9908 don’t forget to apply fluid film if you’re driving it in salt!
I just had my Body Shop do this same repair. They couldn't get the windshield edge without removing the glass so we are gonna do that next and just replace it.
I will definitely follow your instructions when i start doing some work on my rust bucket passat 😁
This was an very informative and well executed video! Nice work! Thanks!
Thanks! I’m gonna really need that since my Uncle gave me his Acura RSX. He wasn’t very good at taking care of the car.
Very helpful. Noticed some rust in my mitsubishi lancer. Will DIY soon. Watching from the Philippines. Subscribed. 🙂
Evo?
So helpful thx! Bought a budget car with a gnarly rust spot on the roof. I'm gonna use this advice!
Pretty good deal, 3$ for 10 nuggets and a large french fries.
Thanks for the video ;)
Thank you! I had some paint chipping on my roof and rear quarter panel. With your tutorial, I was able to fix it. However, my result was far from perfect-the blend was noticeable. For some reason, the new paint looks darker at the blend (the color code is correct). I think I might have messed up with the clear coat. Still, the paint doesn’t chip anymore, so that’s already a good result.
Often the original factory paint will fade and get lighter from years of sun.
Even tho alot of the processes were not done to auto body industry standards , I'm very suprised by your outcome and kinda impressed. Nice.
I really enjoyed that video! I am a DIYer and it just popped up in my feed. But guess what? Now I’m a subscriber!
This was an excellent quality repair. Quality means adherence to specification, so while it may not be a top spec repair, it was well executed to meet that spec.
One of the better videos I have watched.
Very well presented.
You didn't throw those nugget coupons out, did you?
lo!!!
most american comment you can find in this comment section
Thanks for the video! Repaired a rust spot using your detailed method. Worked out amazing!
Pro tip. Always apply an anti corrosive application to bare metal before applying any filler.
Filler can go directly on bare metal
Tought filler could go strait on metal?
@@ScandiSledder8000 if there are any pits, rust will come back. I sanded the edges of a metal door last december, used some filler on the pits and bumps and applied 2 coats of anticorrosive primer, and 2 of color (no clear since it was a door). it is now september and rust came back in the same areas. This time will try some metal conditioner. some primer and then the filler.
Thanks very much for the tips, I'm doing up a campervan with lots of rusty chips,
Kieran from Ireland
Really appreciate you sharing this. I currently have this issue on my car in a number of spots. I was quoted $1,500 for repairs and needless to say the idea of just slapping a glob of sealing glue or the like felt like a cheap alternative. Though I knew I wanted something that would actually fix my car, not just be a "duct tape" fix.
This is exactly what I needed to see so I can feel confident to fix my car on my own... or convince my friend who actually works on cars to try something new. Out of curiosity, if you had to ball park the cost of your tools and supplies for this job, where would you hit at? Seeing if I can save up money to budget for this. I assume it will be less than $1,500.
I would guess maybe $100 for materials. I have links to the products used in the description if you wanted to price them out. It's absolutely worth trying it yourself!
inspired! great job brother, i love how you didnt have to use a clear coat blender or ax2 clear... so much easier this way. im about to attempt.
What about a 2k primer before the body filler?
Also if there is rust underneath the sheet it needs to be removed and treated as well
amazing job, nicely done. Making a $500 car look like a much more expensive one is awesome and a great way to prolong the life of a vehicle.
Chris fix 2.0
Lol
Looks good dude
Hey guys 6th gear garage here!
Funny because one time I said "Hey Guys..." in an intro and later realized it sounded like a Chris Fix vid. He's the diy master, love his vids!
Finally, a solid solution and not a hack. Thank you.
What I dont get is why people dont treat the metal before covering it with filler. I found a rust inhibitor liquid that I spray on the exposed metal and then proceed to fill it up. No bubbles come back, ever.
This! Every video on YT...they put filler on exposed metal. In one year rust will be back.
Dude, YOU ARE A SAINT! We were recently ripped off by a Gypsy "Dent Fixer". These assholes come down to S. Florida when the snow birds ( winter residents) return.
They spot a car with dents and get our attention, pull over where they offer a Deal on fixing the dents ..Immediately, at where ever we can both pull over into a parking lot. Then they proceed to do a terrible job and are paid, and off into the wind.
My elderly female neighbor was hit yesterday to the tune of $900, yes that's $900 !! and the job was pure crap. Now she is stuck with looking for someone to fix the Gypsy body man's bad job. By the way we live in a mobile home community for 55 years + and as he was working another Gypsy drove by with flyers for roofing work. I heard them speak briefly in a language unknown to me. Previously , thinking Ritchie the Gypsy body man was Latino because of his dark skin, I spoke to him in Spanish and he admitted he didn't know Spanish.
Anyway Ritchie quickly stopped the roofer from communicating and pushed him to drive quickly away.
Since I was a retired roofer and told Ritchie as much, Ritchiie told me to throw the flyer away as the roofer was no good. Then I remarked that the roofer must have been a Gypsy and Ritchie agreed. I finally put it all together, why Ritchie said he had a rental pickup truck thereby leaving his business cards in his truck which was being fixed.
I believe if he gave anyone a card he could be arrested for doing business w/o a license, a serious offence here in S. Fla since after Huge Hurricane "Andrew" destroyed much in 1985 where so many lost big money to Gypsy roofers.
Now I feel I should try to track down Ritchie and get money returned for my neighbor.
If you readers don't know much about Gypsy's , study them. Pure inbred bandits.
I haven't heard of this scam, thanks for the heads up!
That was a really helpful video. Thank you for the list of tools.
this is awesome people always tell me if one spot of my car is messed up paint the whole car because that spot would look newer than the whole car but I'm like I think they trying to get over and make me spend more money because you can make it match the whole car's paint old paint and you just proved it is possible thank you
Looks perfect. I need to do the same for my Jeep TJ which has several rust spots bubbles
Yo facts same with my TJ
Yep, a few
On top of my driver side fender. I think it might be a design flaw.
Very Nicely Done Sir!! Thanks for Sharing!! You may consider yourself to be an ordinary Guy who is putting out simple information but, In my eyes, you illustrate and communicate just as good if not better then those who consider themselves to be more to the professional side of the business. Thanks again! Please continue to put out the GOOD STUFF!!
Thanks, will do!
Thanks for the great video! Would you recommend applying a second coat of self-etching primer before moving on to the filler primer?
Yes you can apply a second coat if the first coat did not completely cover.
great video ! exsplained well . just a tip after your ready to start priming wet the gardge floor or drive way .youll be suprised how much dust that will knock down .then do everything as you exsplained making sure the floor stays wet if you go for coffee between coats.
very nice job. every time i start a repair the whole car ends up in primer...
So it's not only me that does so many small repairs that have to shoot the whole car.The best thing is I do this on every car lol
An easy way of spraying less primer is order small fan pattern spray can tips. You can order them from most graffiti shops online. It's helped me a ton
This comment is underrated
I'm feeling this urge
Thanks. I'm not planning to go into all the detail you did and I couldn't care less what my Caravan will look like afterward, but I just wanted a way to make sure that when I cover it up with Tremclad or whatever, that the rust wouldn't "bleed" back through. We bought our 2016 Caravan last summer and the dealership (or previous owner) had covered up some chipped paint with some sort of paint, and rust is now coming through. I see i have to make sure I sand down to the BARE METAL and make sure all the rust is gone, before I even attempt to paint. Thanks!
Yep,grinding it down is important. You can also apply a rust converter before primer/paint for an extra piece of mind that the rust won't come back.
@@6thGearGarage I tried that on a previous vehicle, but the rust still came through. So I'm thinking grinding away all the rust is what will make the difference.
Can I get one of those 10 Pc. Chicken nugget vouchers please?
Thanks man! Saves me taking my almost dead car in yet again! I had the opposite problem, I could only move forward. I had to do some yoga pose just to sit in the car!
3:36 If you'd use some epoxy rust-removal spray now, the repair would last much longer..
Can you give a brand and exact name? I searched "epoxy rust removal spray" and some "krylon rust protector spray came up". I have corroseal, is that what your talking about?
Absolut super erklärt und gezeigt. Wenn ich das irgendwann machen muss, gucke ich das Video erneut👍👍👍
I just did 20 spots just like this on my Subaru 2011 Impreza.... Took 3 days total...
How is it holding up?
Awwww Budd! Super impressive! Seriously. I have the same issue on a quarter panel. Im going for it . You've erased my paint match questions.
Good tutorial however would it be worth adding a rust cure solution before filler to prevent tiniest rust spot returning?
Yes. On a nicer vehicle with lower miles, it would be worth it.
I've been hating my paint job lately and scared as hell to take the many rust spots/bubbling paint down to bare metal. This video gives me a little more confidence that just maybe I could do a decent enough job. I have a 2006 Scion xB that i love, except the exterior condition. Great video and thanks for posting it. I'm trying to learn about video editing as well and am thinking this would be a great video for me to attempt. If ANYONE has a step or two that he missed or absolutely nailed, please let me know. I'm now sort of excited to try this. Thanks man. Excellent video
Ive noticed that scions seem to get chips easily. It makes me wonder if there are paint quality issues or if the paint was applied thin in general.
@@6thGearGarage first and foremost thanks for responding to my comment. I appreciate that. Second of all I don't know much about paint on cars so I really couldn't answer that question, but I do have a ton of rock chips on the hood and I've got a big rust spot on my driver side door from where the paint got scratched and was never taken care of. On top of that I've noticed above my windshield I have a lot of small bubbling paint areas so I can only assume that rust is forming underneath there.
Never touch the surface after you have cleaned it!
@Jacob T. If thats a why? Your hands are naturally oily, if you touch the clean surface it can contaminate the surface and cause the paint or primer to lift or have whats called fish eye.
Really nice repair I'm going to do this on my old 1969 Impala which is in good shape except for some Rust spots
And, after a year, it's back :-)
Thanks bro I never learned anybody work only mechanical stuff now it’s time for me to do all the bodywork myself.😅
Body work is fun, just messy!
I've been doing body work probably longer than you have been alive. You can't just sand rust and put body fill over it! to properly remove rust it MUST be sandblasted. The pits still have rust in them and will keep working, you will see your work start to bubble in a short time. I get it a lot of people don't have access to a sand blaster so the least that should be done before adding your body fill is to use a "sealer-rust converter" which in some cases doubles as a primer, it isn't a perfect scenario but it will buy some extra time for your repair.
would it be possible to sand the areas down, cover them and bring them to a shop to sandblast, than take back and prep it for them to paint? I just recently bought a car and wanna make it nice, and I'm hoping to find ways to do this sort of thing the right way but cheaper. I don't plan on doing cosmetic repairs soon though, so if that's not possible than I will live
@@Lysergic_ I think that’s why he used self etching primer it’s a rust preventing coat basically but it doesn’t fully seal that’s why you use the prime filler after
Thank God for RUclips! Awesome vid.
Simple good straight forward ! Thx
The Q-tip and tape trick was pretty smart
Thanks, I try to keep it simple.
Nice job !
Nice work! Now I’m going to try this on my son’s car.
Go for it!
Great looking 👍🏻 thanks for sharing this and merry Christmas 🎄
Great video. I'm going to try this on my yukon XL back door area on tue fender where the paint is bubbling.
500$ car huh, I'll take 10