For anyone curious, I ended up changing the timing chain thinking it was stretched! The culprit was the tensioner, not the chain! Chain was in perfect condition and barely stretched. Guides we're barely worn either.
I was thinking about changing mine because I hear wining moise from my pump asked around guys which worked on these and they said it's fine it is the sound they do.. ok 50k later still running nice but the tensioner I could probably do with... I was thinking the timing chain also because it doesn't start in click more like in 2 if cold then 4. But when hot always first so I don't know and fault code free all glow plugs new so maybe the tensioner... Anyway thanks for sharing great work.
First of all thank you very much for sharing knowledge, for the need to be able to identify and solve the problem. I own a Mercedes-Benz W220 320cdi and mine makes a hammer very similar to the video you previously published. Can you publish a new video of how the engine was working after tightening the gas screw of the diesel pressure pump? Greetings from Portugal
MBDieselFreak possible fuel leak and egr system needs cleaned. The og owner was pissed that the MB dealership only offered him 1.6k for trade in. So he decided to basically give it away to someone who would appreciate. It was on Craigslist for 4 hrs when I scooped her up. My friend actually picked up for me because he was closer to it. I’m driving all day tomorrow to go pick her up. I’ve never been more excited!
That'd be awesome, definitely looking forward and just subscribed. My OM648 barely has 250k miles and I hope it too will make it to 440k. Just did the injector seals and now on to find out why it will crank but not start for a long time in cold weather.
Blackjack666 first thing I would check is to make sure your glow plugs are getting nice and hot, and that none of them are burned out. Check each one of them for continuity, and make sure the glow plug controller is the OE Benz branded product. There is not a single aftermarket glow plug controller that works for our om648.
Blackjack666 glow plug control module? That's almost 100% guaranteed to be your problem. Check out mbdirectparts(.com) for OEM parts. They have the best prices I've seen for OE parts
OMG, thank you SO much for the heads up! I’ve only just bought a V221 2008 S320 CDi, it’s done 206,000 klms here in Australia. I traded in my beloved 2004 S220 S350, still only had 90,000 klms on the odometer! The 221, is just that much better all round....one day I’ll buy a V222 S400 with the straight 6 and 9 speed. I’ll need to dream for a fair few years though! Good to know the chain is still good. So it was the chain tensioner that failed. Perhaps I should change that when I change the oil cooler gaskets soon. I’ve been able to stop the leak for now with some good seal conditioner. I used AT-205 for the rear seal on the old S220, but needed to keep using it every oil change. I used some other stuff on the diesel. So would you suggest I also change my tensioner? I will also change all pulleys, alternator bearings etc, exchange the AC compressor as well, that way it should be good for another 200,000 klms.
Hey man! I think i have the exactly same problem as u. If i let my car on idle for a while its starts with this hard knockin noise. Just last week after i hooked it up to STAR computer we noticed the fuel pressure wasnt about right. So after some testing and listening i pulled out the connector to the diesel pressure valve and the engine went quiet as before. After seeing this video i wonder how do i reach to that loosened bolt? Do i have to remove the pump to reach that bolt or do i need to move more stuff? Would be grateful for an answer. Thanks! / Mike
how difficult was it to do it?i am considering getting one of those to install in a small Sea Ray 19 from which i just sold the original 3.0 Mercruiser of.For a boat,is it best to eliminate(remove) the swirl flaps? or set them always open?are they plastic like on some BMtroubleUs that swallow the flaps?
I'm kinda paranoid now... Question: Is this the only way to check it and tighten if needed? Could i see anything by removing the fuel pump and having a peek inside? Have a feeling that i'd have to yank all injectors etc in order to remove the valve cover and hence looking for a easier way :)
Have you encountered a fuel leak in your High pressure fuel pump? It Might be that I just need to tighten some housing bolts down on the pump. Any thoughts?
Austinboeboston an external leak? No I havent, but that is a common problem. It's probably leaking from one of the internal seals, they break down from age. You can get rebuild kits for our pumps.
MBDieselFreak I’m going to first try And just tighten the FP case. Apparently the FP case can just come loose after 300k+ miles. At least it’s Super common on the 2.7 sprinters w/ similar Bosch HPFP.
I attempted a reseal on my high pressure fuel pump on my 2005 E320 CDI at 295000 miles and the leak did not stop. Could have been the ball bearings in the aluminum housing leaking..I could not figure out how to replace them (they did come in the seal kit). I just bought a Bosch reman pump from autohausaz.com ($950)
@@kidwithaviolin Can confirm, have had a couple of Sprinters with this HPFP diesel leak. Remove pump, re-tighten bolts, replace. 426k and counting on the van it first happened to.
How do the CDIs handle biodiesel which is prevalent in IL? I just turned in my leased BMW 535d and it was an issue finding straight diesel locally, reasonably priced. Most gas stations only carry the 5-20% bio blends which the manufacturers shun and recommend 5% max. Luckily it was less of an issue because I worked near a Shell that sold 5% but it was a hassle in the city.
I think mercedes recommended no more than 5% for the om648. It's been awhile since I read about it but I remember thinking that wasn't worth fooling with bio. I did for a time burn about 30% veg oil with no issues.
We didnt disasembled everything, only parts that needed to to away in order to check rod on those flaps. And rod had no free movement ... (Pardon my english, i dont know how to explain technical stuff in english very well ... )
falatalane the thing to double check is to make sure the end of the linkage that connects to the electrical motor, IS actually connected. It's very common for that metal ball socket linkage to come disconnected, and for the swirl flaps to get stuck in the closed position.
Hi I have a 2005 CDI with 226,000 miles I was driving got off the highway my car went to limp mode then died popped the hood my air intake box has melted, air filter and MAF sensor also melted is this an egr issue or turbo issue?
For anyone curious, I ended up changing the timing chain thinking it was stretched!
The culprit was the tensioner, not the chain! Chain was in perfect condition and barely stretched. Guides we're barely worn either.
Also the 4 small bolts on the back of the pump works themselves lose and you'll see the pump leaking when so. These need loctite and retorque
I was thinking about changing mine because I hear wining moise from my pump asked around guys which worked on these and they said it's fine it is the sound they do.. ok 50k later still running nice but the tensioner I could probably do with...
I was thinking the timing chain also because it doesn't start in click more like in 2 if cold then 4. But when hot always first so I don't know and fault code free all glow plugs new so maybe the tensioner...
Anyway thanks for sharing great work.
Did you have to remove the cylinder head for changing the chain guides ?
so it was the sprocket bolt and the tensioner? ?
First of all thank you very much for sharing knowledge, for the need to be able to identify and solve the problem. I own a Mercedes-Benz W220 320cdi and mine makes a hammer very similar to the video you previously published. Can you publish a new video of how the engine was working after tightening the gas screw of the diesel pressure pump? Greetings from Portugal
I came here from
LegitStreetCars
Me too
Just came here to say, that engine is in beautiful shape for its age. Well done
And milage! 453k miles as of this morning!
@@MBDieselFreak time to change the fuel pump
Nice man that’s awesome! Good work. I just got an 05 cdi with 309k. Original owner. 1200 bucks. I’m so stoked!
kidwithaviolin wow! That's a low price.
Anything wrong with it?
MBDieselFreak possible fuel leak and egr system needs cleaned. The og owner was pissed that the MB dealership only offered him 1.6k for trade in. So he decided to basically give it away to someone who would appreciate. It was on Craigslist for 4 hrs when I scooped her up. My friend actually picked up for me because he was closer to it. I’m driving all day tomorrow to go pick her up. I’ve never been more excited!
You're going to love it!!! Just remember, do all the maintence yourself!
Thanks a lot for your videos and the explanations, especially noise causes and timing chain checks, they've been a great help for fixing my E320 CDI.
Blackjack666 no problem! I plan on expanding this channel soon and documenting all the maintence I do on my CDI and Bluetec! :)
That'd be awesome, definitely looking forward and just subscribed. My OM648 barely has 250k miles and I hope it too will make it to 440k. Just did the injector seals and now on to find out why it will crank but not start for a long time in cold weather.
Blackjack666 first thing I would check is to make sure your glow plugs are getting nice and hot, and that none of them are burned out. Check each one of them for continuity, and make sure the glow plug controller is the OE Benz branded product. There is not a single aftermarket glow plug controller that works for our om648.
Thanks a lot for the tip, I'll do that. Just ordered a new control module as that threw a fault code in DAS.
Blackjack666 glow plug control module? That's almost 100% guaranteed to be your problem.
Check out mbdirectparts(.com) for OEM parts. They have the best prices I've seen for OE parts
OMG, thank you SO much for the heads up! I’ve only just bought a V221 2008 S320 CDi, it’s done 206,000 klms here in Australia. I traded in my beloved 2004 S220 S350, still only had 90,000 klms on the odometer!
The 221, is just that much better all round....one day I’ll buy a V222 S400 with the straight 6 and 9 speed. I’ll need to dream for a fair few years though!
Good to know the chain is still good. So it was the chain tensioner that failed. Perhaps I should change that when I change the oil cooler gaskets soon. I’ve been able to stop the leak for now with some good seal conditioner. I used AT-205 for the rear seal on the old S220, but needed to keep using it every oil change. I used some other stuff on the diesel.
So would you suggest I also change my tensioner?
I will also change all pulleys, alternator bearings etc, exchange the AC compressor as well, that way it should be good for another 200,000 klms.
Hey man! I think i have the exactly same problem as u. If i let my car on idle for a while its starts with this hard knockin noise. Just last week after i hooked it up to STAR computer we noticed the fuel pressure wasnt about right. So after some testing and listening i pulled out the connector to the diesel pressure valve and the engine went quiet as before. After seeing this video i wonder how do i reach to that loosened bolt? Do i have to remove the pump to reach that bolt or do i need to move more stuff? Would be grateful for an answer. Thanks! / Mike
Thanks for doing these videos. Which oil do you use? Mobil 1, Liqui-Moly or ?
Howdy,
Big fan. I wanted to pick your brain. Btw I lived in Michigan too for 4 years
Thanks
8-10k km oil changes with a 5w40 oil (amsoil esp 5w40 European oil) and ceratec. I run amsoil engine flush every second oil change.
how difficult was it to do it?i am considering getting one of those to install in a small Sea Ray 19 from which i just sold the original 3.0 Mercruiser of.For a boat,is it best to eliminate(remove) the swirl flaps? or set them always open?are they plastic like on some BMtroubleUs that swallow the flaps?
I'm kinda paranoid now... Question: Is this the only way to check it and tighten if needed? Could i see anything by removing the fuel pump and having a peek inside? Have a feeling that i'd have to yank all injectors etc in order to remove the valve cover and hence looking for a easier way :)
You can definitely check by just removing the pump! Just check to see if that bolt in there is tight
That's great news for me.Thank you so much for the quick reply, much appreciated.
Have you encountered a fuel leak in your High pressure fuel pump? It Might be that I just need to tighten some housing bolts down on the pump. Any thoughts?
Austinboeboston an external leak? No I havent, but that is a common problem. It's probably leaking from one of the internal seals, they break down from age. You can get rebuild kits for our pumps.
MBDieselFreak I’m going to first try And just tighten the FP case. Apparently the FP case can just come loose after 300k+ miles. At least it’s Super common on the 2.7 sprinters w/ similar Bosch HPFP.
I attempted a reseal on my high pressure fuel pump on my 2005 E320 CDI at 295000 miles and the leak did not stop. Could have been the ball bearings in the aluminum housing leaking..I could not figure out how to replace them (they did come in the seal kit). I just bought a Bosch reman pump from autohausaz.com ($950)
@@kidwithaviolin Can confirm, have had a couple of Sprinters with this HPFP diesel leak. Remove pump, re-tighten bolts, replace. 426k and counting on the van it first happened to.
How do the CDIs handle biodiesel which is prevalent in IL? I just turned in my leased BMW 535d and it was an issue finding straight diesel locally, reasonably priced. Most gas stations only carry the 5-20% bio blends which the manufacturers shun and recommend 5% max. Luckily it was less of an issue because I worked near a Shell that sold 5% but it was a hassle in the city.
I think mercedes recommended no more than 5% for the om648. It's been awhile since I read about it but I remember thinking that wasn't worth fooling with bio. I did for a time burn about 30% veg oil with no issues.
And how you fixed that rought idle ? I have exacly the same problem, but my flaps look ok ...
falatalane you checked the actual linkage for the swirl flaps?
We didnt disasembled everything, only parts that needed to to away in order to check rod on those flaps. And rod had no free movement ... (Pardon my english, i dont know how to explain technical stuff in english very well ... )
falatalane the thing to double check is to make sure the end of the linkage that connects to the electrical motor, IS actually connected. It's very common for that metal ball socket linkage to come disconnected, and for the swirl flaps to get stuck in the closed position.
Hi I have a 2005 CDI with 226,000 miles I was driving got off the highway my car went to limp mode then died popped the hood my air intake box has melted, air filter and MAF sensor also melted is this an egr issue or turbo issue?
Ever figure out what causes it ?
@@zenjamin6262 turbo
Guides are cracking also.
What oil do you recommend for these CDI engines?
CT 415 any oil that meets MB specs for this engine. Total, lubro-moly, Mobil-1, pentosin all make quality oil
Do you happen to know the torque spec for the valve cover bolts?
Slate Construction no I can't remember, you'd have to look it up in WIS.
Is a lifetime you don't have to do nothing no replacement required on timing chan gosh that's why is now broke is because they Fuked up is
What was the nosie
6k oil is done.... stop this long life nonsens 😅