I have been a manufacturing specialist with Rolls-Royce aero for 45 years. Nothing impresses me with engineering any more I’ve seen it all! However I have to say this video is absolutely bloody marvellous well done thank you very much!
Hi, just wanted to say thanks very much for the feedback. I feel very humbled to receive a comment like this from someone with your background and experience! It makes me feel encouraged to continue to try to produce high quality content. :-)
Revive My Ride What a lovely reply thank you. It was a pleasure to watch, very simple explaination. I was particularly impressed with the finish you got on the seats after cutting with such a rudimentary tool, and coating it with cutting compound was a good idea to keep the swarf out of the cylinder! You are a proper engineer! Good luck buddy.
Just the way it should be done very few mechanics do it like this when I was a mechanic finishing in the 90s I carried out repairs with the same proficiency well done brother your a dying breed ,I’d trust you on my Mercedes any time ,hats off to you.👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video! I’ve got a video coming up on Mercedes front coil springs and will be going for a similar style of information delivery 👍
99% of all youtubers should learn from U how to make a video. I have to thank u for making this very good video. It is informativ and pleasent to watch - neither did I get any stressydrom. Just fantastic how easy U make it.
This is the best technical video with clear explanation for injector removal I’ve ever watched on RUclips. Thanks for your time and effort. Subscribed 👍
Just following your instructions to a 'T' as one of my injectors from my Merc GL320 CDI has the 'Black Death.' Fantastic lesson at a perfect speed for a first timer down here in Adelaide, Australia. Thank you so very much - I've subscribed, thank you.
An excellent video, well presented. However, two issues, firstly there was no mention about which way around the copper washer goes. The domed surface faces the injector. The second issue is in the way the copper washer is fitted. If you rely on the friction fit to the injector tip, as you lower the assembly into the hole, if the washer falls off it can turn in the bore and end up the wrong way around. I use a long thin cable tie, slide the copper washer up the cable tie and lower into the hole until the tip of the plastic has entered the cylinder. Release the copper washer and it will end up in place facing the correct way. Remove the cable tie and you can then lower the injector into the hole and continue with the assembly.
Hi, thanks for your comment and the extra info! I did research the topic of the washer. Info was hard to find but everything I found said that it could be fitted either way up. I did all 6 of mine, so some were bound to be a mix of dome shape up and down but I haven’t seen any issues… I don’t suppose there is any information that you can link to is there? If not, no worries I’ll take your word for it, you seem to have experience! Thanks, Phil
Hi, I have the official Merc workshop manual and there is no info given. Rightly or wrongly, I decided to fit the domed end of the copper washer onto the alloy head rather than the injector. I've not had any issues. The logic being, I'd rather the rounded, or domed face of the copper washer come into contact with the aluminium seat thus minimising the risk of the copper washer causing any localised deformation of the alloy seating face. Even though I know the cooper washer is softer than the aluminium head. Also, pressure = force divided by area. The marginally smaller the area (due to the rounded rather than square sheared edge of the copper washer), the greater the sealing pressure on the copper washer for the same bolting force. I didn't have to recut my seats as they looked in very good condition. So, I figured if there was any minor irregularities in the alloy seat, the copper washer would have a marginally greater pressure on it to 'flow' into them and in theory a better chance of sealing. That said, it probably doesn't make any real difference! I've not had any issues since. I'll note the orientation next time I remove a set of injectors. I have to do that soon to replace the rocker / valve cover on my W447 - which is annoying!
I'm about to change my air filters, when I do I shall be inspecting my injectors. If clear of black death I'll still inspect every 5000 miles. Thanks for a very clear concise video.
Thanks for your comment! Sounds like a good plan! Best not to mess with the injectors unless you have to, the seals may never fail and there is always the risk of accidentally causing a problem when doing this king of work.
Hi George, thanks for your comment, glad you liked the video! Just a favour to ask - I have actually introduced music on my later videos, although I try to keep it in the background most of the time. If you have time, would be interested to hear what you think about the music in them - annoying? or ok? Thanks!
This is a great video; just the right amount of detail and I with no knowledge of cars could follow along. Alas… this issue is exactly what I have at this time. I have a query I hope viewers may answer - I have a 2007 2.2 diesel E class, 152000 miles on the clock. I live in Scotland. I had the car in for an MOT last month and whilst having the MOT work done the mechanic also diagnosed an issue with an injector that was producing the ‘hiss hiss’ sound. I have to say I never noticed any big issues with the car's engine/overall performance prior to the visit. He installed a single new injector and I understand washers too but on return of the car to me the car was vibrating noticeably whilst an idle. I took the car back, he performed more work and the roughness subsided for about 3 weeks only for the roughness to return yesterday. I recall him telling me the injector was difficult to remove. From watching this video I have just had a look at the injector/cyclinder head area. I can clearly see heavy black wet deposits and clearly see and feel the ‘hiss hiss’. The injectors were very easy to locate. The replacement injector is ( i think) not clamped down with a torx screw... whereas the other 3 injectors are. Video of my car - ruclips.net/video/ip99tlKHf_o/видео.html I will clean the area up today and give the car to the mechanic tomorrow. The car drives ok, I did 2 50 mile trips ok before noticing a repeat of the fault and this video but other symptoms are the rev counter wavers at idle and the vibration (annoying as hell !) when idle. There are no warning lights on dashboard BTW. Can anyone comment on what has resulted in the ‘hiss hiss’ returning after 3 weeks and what the mechanic must do from here on to fully resolve the issue ? I also understand from comments that the new injector must also be coded ? I do not know if coding was done as I only discovered this aspect last night. I recall the mechanic telling me that if the injector was worn it can have an effect on it's alignment with the cylinder head which could result in the repair job outweighing the value of the car… comments please ? £500 paid so far (ex MOT work) so I am keen to get this issue fixed at no further cost to me. Thanks all.
Lets start with a huge THANKS&GRATITUDE 🤗 Hands down the best mechanic walkthrough I've seen! I'm actually so impressed that I can't even express myself.... all the positive good words in the dictionary go to you my man😇
Thank you so much for your kind words!! I'm speechless! Feedback like this makes the hard work that goes into the videos worth it! Cheers and best wishes, Phil
I have a T1N Sprinter that is now slightly over 100k miles. I have not inspect under the cover yet but thinking that sooner or later I will need to perform out this cured work. Thanks for putting the time and care in making this video. It is the best out there in clarity.
As others have said, a great video, thank you! I have a problem though that I'm hoping someone on here may be able to answer. I have the same engine (installed in a Merc 320 CDI, 2008). All has gone well so far with my injector seal replacement, but I'm now stuck at the seat-cutting/reaming stage. The video clearly shows the use of a 17mm flat cutting head, and other references I've found (not that there are many) also recommend the use of the 17mm flat cutter. However, in my case, the 17mm cutter appears only to be making its mark on the very outer surface of the seat, as if the actual injector seat is a 15mm diameter face inset a few mm below a 17mm bore. (at 17:41 in the video, you can see what appears to be a raised 'ring' surrounding the main circular area of the seat). From what I've read, only light pressure is required on the cutting tool, but I've applied more pressure more times than I'm now comfortable with, and still the cutter does not appear to be making contact with the primary face of the seat. I've tried the 15mm cutter and this does appear to make full contact with the seat face, so perhaps my seat is in fact 15mm? The only problem I have with that is that the copper washer is known to be 15mm in diameter, so surely this tolerance is too tight? Surely the 15mm washer should fit into a 17mm seat, thereby allowing the washer to expand as the hold-down clamp stretch-bolt is tightened? Any thoughts, anyone? Should I perservere with the 17mm cutter or are some of these engines equipped with injectors that use 15mm seats rather than 17mm?
Hi, hopefully others will see your message and contribute their experience too. However your comment has jogged my memory. Somewhere in the comments someone else mentioned using a smaller cutter for the reason you describe. Also, I cut a couple of seats on my car (didn’t show them all) and I’m pretty sure on one one of them, the casting near the bottom about 10mm above the seat was a little narrow for the 17mm cutter, maybe by about 1mm? I was very patient with the cutter and persevered with it. I kept cleaning the debris off of the blade and applying more grease. Eventually the cutter took a small “skim” out of the casting in the bore which allowed it to reach down to the seat. I then cleaned up the seat with the cutter as normal. Hope that helps and the description made sense!
@@ReviveMyRide Hi, great to see your comprehensive reply, many thanks! Yes, the issue you describe is exactly what I found with this injector bore (thankfully I only had to do one). Your description of your own experience, coupled with your comment that you'd read about someone else needing to use a smaller cutter gave me some reassurance. In the end, I reasoned that the injector had come out of the existing bore and therefore it should be happy being returned to a bore of the same diameter, so I stuck with the 15mm cutter. I also used the Honda-manufactured copper washer that you suggested (and also recommended by other DIY enthusiasts). In my case, the extra thickness of this washer (when compared with the Mercedes original) served to compensate for the material I had to remove from the injector seat (see below), so this was a good call. I'm now pleased to report complete success with ths job, so many thanks again for making and posting such an informative video. Incidentally, the seat of my actual injector had been eroded by the blowback gasess, so in addition to cutting the bore seat I also had to reface the injector as well! (If anyone is iinterested in how I did this, please ask/comment and I'll explain). This took some effort, especially bearing in mind the need to keep the injector face level and flat. I was actually on the point of replacing the injector, but I changed my mind when I learned that new/replacement injectors need to be CODED to the car's ECU! I now understand why this is, but it's a fact of which, until now, I was ignorant. So please bear this in mind if you go down the replacement route. Obviously a garage can do the coding (at additional cost) and I understand that some of the newer, high-end code readers can also code injectors. If the coding isn't done, anything from poor runnning to the car failing to start can occur, so it's an essential step. It also applies if you swap the positions of the existing injectors as they are coded for their positions as well as their individual operating characteristics.
@@willcram8350 hi, thanks for your reply above, all really interesting stuff! Good work refinishing the sealing face on the injector! None of mine were damaged but I had heard that it can happen, most people replace the injector but as you say, apart from the cost of a new injector, that then introduces the need for coding etc. One thing I didn’t know (and thanks for sharing) was the implications of not coding. I thought it led to a slight loss of running performance (minor trimming of the fuelling due to injector calibration) not that it could cause non start and other significant problems. I actually had another viewer asking me about coding and non start on FB, so I forwarded on the info you shared! Anyway, good work and happy days that you got it all sorted! 😎🙌👍 thanks, Phil
@@willcram8350 hi! Thank you for your input on seat cutting and productive discussion with the author! Would really love to read how you re-surfaced the injector seat. Thanks.
This is a tricky one! I also have found a few different methods and torque levels for these bolts. All I can suggest is find the info source that you trust and go with it. What I will say is that the bolts break very easily, personally I will be trying less torque next time, maybe the 7Nm + 2x 45deg as you suggest. Cheers, Phil
Thank you very much! Good luck with the work, hopefully the carbon deposits aren’t too bad on yours, clean up is the time consuming part of the job. Cheers, Phil
@ReviveMyRide did an oil change four weeks ago. It was clean, only noticed smoke coming out of the engine the other day, and was shocked a pool of black goo all over the first injector leaking to the second looks like a mess got four cans of carbon cleaner. 😳
Hi @richbrett7268 Thanks for the kind comment! I wouldn't let the leaking fuel injection issue put you off of these cars. The OM642 is a fantastic engine apart from this small issue. If tackled early (just check it from time to time), it's actually quite an easy fix... Cheers, Phil
I found that a spray can of starting fluid with one of those little red extension tubes was very helpful to clean the debris out of the bolt hole that holds the injector down. Then another can of compressed air blows the starting fluid out. It made the bolt hole extremely clean and prevented the bolt from bottoming out to soon and affecting the torque pressure.
Thank you so much! Question though, I assume the injector face where it sits on the seal needs to be perfect? Mine has a slight groove for about 30 degrees around. And although it's better now, it's still chuffing. Also what size cutting tool do you use for these? Lastly, what is it that keeps the injector held down TIGHT, just that little wishbone? Thank you sir.
Hi, The seat damage will almost certainly be causing you problems. I used a flat 17mm cutter but it did shave a tiny amount of material from the bore walls down near the bottom (probably because it is a cast part). Yes, just the little "wishbone" bracket holding down the injector but please take special note of the part in the video where I am clearing out the threaded hole for the bolt that holds it down. If there is debris in there, the bolt won't go down fully. Check the description for the part number for the Honda seal, these work better than the Merc ones. Also, if you are going to remove it again, ideally you need a new bolt. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
just come across your channel - looking at getting a C Class Coupe for my wife - had heard horrible things about the 'Black death' and the costs to solve - you have just put my mind at rest and I know now what to look for and how to solve if necessary. Great work - keep it up
Thanks for your comment and glad that the video was helpful! I think they are great cars and as long as you are aware of this issue, then you can keep an eye on it and if necessary, catch it and fix it early before it becomes a big issue. cheers!
Great! I do make a small commission from purchases from the link but the real reason the links are there are to help people out with the exact tools they need. Glad they helped you out 👍 Cheers, Phil
As a qualified diesel fitter I find your video very informative with great explanation on not just how it is done but also why you need to do it that way. Lots of videos dont tell people the "why" part. Also a lot of videos show the job being performed with shifters and tools that can end up with other issues due to them not really being the best choice. Yes, not everyone has the right tools and like you have shown, researching ahead and buying thr right tools helps avoid disasters. This is why for most people workshops are too expensive due to the outlay and overhead costs being so large. You have managed to give a great tutorial for novices on how to perform the job without causing further damage. Well done mate. A lot of people will benefit from your efforts. Cheers
Leanne Krosch, really appreciate your comments! I'm always interested in trying to cover what tools are required and why. As you say, a lot of people (diy) will do this job as a one off, so I try to find cost effective specialist tools. Hopefully people can watch the video and decide if they want to tackle the job or send it to a specialist such as yourself. Thanks!
@norfolkbushmanandfriends791 That's great to hear! Appreciate the comment! 👍😎 BTW, I have an E350 cabriolet that I fixed up from salvage, If you didn't see it the videos are on my channel. Great car!
Thank you very much for this video, I have issues with exhaust smell inside my E320 Bluetec, checked injectors and sure one of them is leaking fumes inside engine bay. There is not much carbon build up around injectors, hope I'll be able to replace those washers. I'm going to check more of your videos because they are very informative, thank you again!
Thanks for the comment! If it is leaking injector seals, then you are right to tackle them early, the job gets much more difficult once the carbon build up starts. Glad you are enjoying the vids :-)
I'm really sorry about that! Thanks for letting me know, I will go check the link! The problem is that Amazon keeps delisting the tools and then I have to go find another one. Originally, I was linked to the exact tool I used, so I knew it worked! Glad you liked the video and thanks for your comment!
MASSIVE thanks! Thanks for taking the time and effort to produce this video. Now I can keep on driving my beloved 'BRUTUS' because you've teached me how to fix my leaky fuel injector.
Just watched your video. Very, very well presented👍🏻. If I could be so bold as to maybe add a tiny tip to your great thread cleaning bolt, I would recommend applying a thin coat of grease to the slot. This helps to hold any debris collected. Another point that may or may not be important is in using a thicker sealing washer. Will using a thicker washer "lift" the injector by an amount that may cause issues in the fuel delivery? I doubt it myself but just thought I'd put that question out there. Many thanks again for your time and trouble making this informative video.
Thank you, some very good comments there! Yep, great idea about the grease on the “thread cleaning tool”. I’m pretty sure that is exactly what I did but may not have mentioned it in the video, so thanks for highlighting it! Slightly thicker injector seal - many people in the Merc community have been using this exact washer for quite a while now, so I would go so far as to say it is “proven”. It’s particularly useful if you have had to skim the seat with a cutting tool. Thanks for your contribution! 👍
Hi and thank you for a great channel and yes my injectors are playing up at 97000 miles on my E250 cdi bluefficiency, ime going to investigate with your help 👍👍👍
Thank you! Yes, sounds like a good idea, the earlier you tackle it the better. If early enough, less carbon clean up and often no need to recut seats 👍 cheers, Phil
Terrific video, watching you do this with your tips throughout has given me new confidence to tackle this myself, Mercedes would probably want a $1000 AUD, I can probably get it done for half that with some new tools and self-esteem, thanks for sharing, from Aussie down under.
Thanks for your comment, it's music to my ears and the reason why I try to go into such detail in the video! Also, great to have a message from down under! Take your time with it and if you have any Q's pop them on here and I'll try to help if I can! Thanks, Phil
Great video, helpful and covered all the points, I have been told that if possible to spray some wd40 or brake cleaner around the injectors to help removal and if sludge is really bad oven cleaner to loosen that sludge
Thank you! Yes, I’ve heard that all of those products do work 👍 One thing I would have been keen to try is starting the job with a warm engine. The heat stays around for quite a while and apparently makes a big difference to getting the injectors out. Just be careful not to touch anything hot! Cheers, Phil
Thanks for the DIY description_Video : fantastic, and happiness here on the 2005- E220CDI 329000 km, and thanks for links to the tools ! Cheers from Norway !
Hi @cat1stevens nice to have a viewer from Norway! Thank you for your kind comments, glad you liked the video 👍 329,000km! That's almost 200,000 miles (sorry we are slow to catch on with metric for driving distances in the UK 😂) Best wishes for many more happy miles in your Mercedes! These are good cars with good engines and transmissions... Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide have had 2 changes on the circuit-board on the AT, as i managed to brake a pin, when i changed the adapter, for the controlcable during oilchange , and back in 2016, i had to repair the ECU: Thanks to Steven Lewis :ruclips.net/video/kynXjan7O0Q/видео.html (computer-error-that was solved using BDM-100)
@@cat1stevens That is one of the risks when doing planned maintenance, it is possible to intrude problems. Glad you got it sorted, will check out your links for future reference 👍 cheers, Phil
Hi, great videos as always, followed the instructions in your gearbox video made the job easier than I expected, just a quick question the feed from the fuel rail to the injector will that be pressurised ? Will it normal therefore to have some residual fuel come out of the connector? Will make sure the battery is disconnected
Hi, yes, if the engine has been running recently, it will be pressurised and it is very high pressure at the injector too. This does dissipate quickly once the joint is cracked though. I left the car overnight before starting the job and there was no pressure there. I know a lot of people advocate doing this job with a warm engine as it makes the injectors easier to remove, so it must be possible to undo the fuel connection if the car has been running recently, just be careful and maybe wear gloves as a precaution. Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thank you for your reply, I’m going to tackle this job this weekend, cylinder 2 is flagging up on my diagnostic reader, the cars presenting with a rough idle, going to switch the injector with one of the others to diagnose whether it’s the injector or maybe the wiring or ecu. Wish me luck. Thank you again, your a legend all your videos are very informative
Hi, you can just replace the bad one, it should be quite obvious but tbh, I did all of mine in the theory that if one had gone, the others wouldn’t be far behind. Also, the longest part of the job is getting the injector out (if there is carbon around it) and cleaning up around where you’ve had a leaking injector. On injectors where the seal hasn’t started leaking yet, you will change them very quickly. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Thank you for the video, had mine done today and for my surprise, the middle right injector didn’t even have a washer. Only thing I didn’t have was the hammer puller so I used WD40 and a rocking movement to get them out. Did all 6. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Augusto Barale thanks for your comment, glad the video helped give you some information. Weird that a washer was missing! Yes, you are correct if you are patient and the injectors aren't stuck too badly, you can remove them exactly as you described :-)
Nice video, thank you. My om642 only has 70k km and still looks prestine, but I like to have all the parts in stock for future endeavors... just one silly question, why not use one of the old bolts as your cleaning bolt? I just state that because most complete kits only come with the 6 bolts. Cheers 🍺
Hello, this is nothing to do with i njectors, but your channel is so easy to understand and precise, i was wondering if you could give me some advice regarding my e220 2007 mercedes, the parking brake seems to have come out, as in it seems not be connected to anything, prior to this, it always seemed a bit reluctant to release, i know its a long shot but you seem very clued up, thank you
Hi Charles, as it happens the release mechanism sticks on my Merc too but thankfully it still works (for now). If the mechanism fails, then it is usually due to one of the cables. Depending on your problem: If it is the release lever that feels like it is doing nothin then it could be cable item 190 in the attached diagram but in this case, the parking brake would stay on and you would struggle to get the car to move. nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/fg/211006/64u/42/145/ OR if it is the pedal that is failing to set the parking brake (the pedal just goes down with little or no resistance), it is most likely to be cable item 80. However, please note that if the left rear (Item 230) or right rear (item 240) cables fail you might feel some resistance but not as much as normal because just one side of the parking brake is operating. I hope this makes sense and is of use to you! If you decide to purchase a new cable, please double check part numbers before ordering and it is worth checking with the Mercedes dealers because they are generally very helpful and surprisingly competitive on prices for some parts. It would be great to hear how you get on if you have time to message back! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Good afternoon Phil, first of all let me wish you a happy and healthy new year, thank you for your response, l am not much good with mechanics, but after seeing your videos it might be worth having a look at the park brake system if it isnt too complicated,, i will let you know the outcome thanks again
I have a Jeep Crd 3.0 V6 with the Merc motor (OM642) and this is a problem I have only the right side head, my vehicle struggles to start and is underboosting and heavy on fuel. I hope this is the solution. I bought the vehicle at a bargain price and if this is the fix, I'd be sooo happy. The video was really really helpful! Great job!
great video!! I am having difficulty figuring out which tool will work with my car - 2008 GL 320. Are all Mercedes diesels the same? What car were you working on specifically?
Thanks! 🙂 The car featured in the video was a W209 2007 CLK 320 cdi. The engine is the OM642. On the wiki page for this engine, it lists the usages and years and you car is listed! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_OM642_engine Hope that helps. Thanks, Phil
Did you have to re learn the ecu for the new injectors? Mercedes says that we have to and if we do would it be okay to drive it to them if they aren’t learned into the system?
Hi, I reused the existing injectors, so I didn't run into this problem. I've never replaced a Mercedes injector, so haven't run into this problem before. I suspect that you may know more about this than I do but here is a link where a few MB forum members are talking about the coding. forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/do-cdi-injectors-need-programming.32558/ Apparently, coding is to optimise the injector to run with the ECU, it doesn't mean that it won't run at all. On separate posts I have read about plenty of owners who have fitted injectors without coding them it, just monitored engine performance and fuel economy but its a personal choice.... Thanks, Phil
Hi @jun2611 you are right to be cautious. If you can get the injector out without the slide hammer than that is always the best solution: make sure the engine is warm to soften the carbon, twist it from side to side and pull by hand. But, if it is big time stuck stuck, which can happen, then it's gotta come out to fix the problem. Usually the injector comes out intact, if it breaks, then you need to put a new one in but somehow, you need to get it out so you can clean up the seal seat and fit a new washer etc. Cheers, Phil
Hi Geoff, Sorry for the slow reply! Yes, I think you should use a thin coat of grease on the outside of the injector body (not essential though!). At 17:50 in the video, I apply some copper grease BUT you have to be careful to keep the grease away from the seal. Ceramic grease is actually the best grease to use. Thanks, Phil
thank you for the video….my c320 is suffering from “black death” on one cilinder. In the video around 19:40 you tighten the bolt with 8 NM and the you tighten it again with two times 90 degrees…why? I mean wat is the use of starting off with 8 NM and followed by 2 times 90 degrees? Thanks for explaining
Thank you for great video and links to the tools ! I just got a call yesterday from a customer with the 3.0 diesel in a Jeep Cherokee that's leaking " blow by " around the injectors so I suspect this is the problem .
Glad the video helped you! Yep, as you say, sounds like it might be leaking injector seals. Be interesting to hear how you get on if you have time to drop a message later... Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide The engine had 4 cylinders leaking pretty bad and two thinking about it . Got the injectors pulled and ports cleaned up with some make shift tools we threw together . Replaced all 6 copper washers and the Jeep is running great on the test drive . ruclips.net/video/lY46G7Cnivo/видео.html Thanks again !
@@cranerigging3604 Thanks for sharing a video of the work that you are doing! Great to see the homemade tools that you put together and it looks like they worked really well! Keep up the good work!
Great video I have a 2008 GL 320 with 135000 miles No issues yet thank goodness When you cut the seat, I assume that there was nothing preventing dirt from going into the engine ...
Hi, thanks for your comment! You are doing the right thing to keep an eye on it and to only intervene if you see a problem developing. It may never happen on your vehicle! You are correct that during the seat recutting process, there is a risk of cuttings falling into the cylinder. I minimised this by using a cutting compound both to improve the cutting quality but also to capture the swarfe. I didn't let the cutter blades get too full either and withdrew the tool regularly, cleaned away the cuttings and reapplied with new cutting compound several times. Cheers, Phil
Great video = dumb question but if I have a couple of leaky injectors, do I need to replace them or just replace the seals? My logic says I just need to replace the seals.
Don't worry, it's not a dumb question at all! You just have to replace the seals. You can check the bottom face of the injector where the seal sits to make sure it is ok but 99.9% of the time it is fine because it is made of stainless steel and is much, much, harder that the Aluminum head that it is seating in. Sometimes you need to recut the seat in the head though...
Very well done mate and hello from Eastern Canada. One injector just started to leak on my 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK. I hear a poofing noise and smell the gases inside the passenger area. I bought the 6-bolt and 6-seal kit from IDParts $24.95 US and the ceramic grease. I'm going to use one of the old bolts for the thread cleaning tool. They will all get replaced. The Rocal cutting compound is an excellent product we use it at my shop for thread cutting, a little bit goes a long way. A bit toxic so use with care. Thanks again.
Great to hear from a viewer from Canada! Sounds like you know what you are doing but glad you found the video useful! Good idea to chance all of the seals once one has failed and they are super easy to change if there is no carbon build up. Hope it all goes smoothly for you! Thanks, Phil
Very good contribution. Only with the "Nissan" sealing ring part number a small error. The correct number is Honda 16472RBDE00. Best regards from Germany
Hi, Thanks very much for raising this point, you are absolutely right regarding the part number! I will need to amend in in the video description above!
A very hard , Black Tar-Like substance has appeared around the nearest injector, since 3 months ago , on my 2010 313cdi Mercedes Sprinter van 😳 .... it was " chuffing " initially, but that's stopped for some reason - How urgent would you see it needs attention ? Love your videos , very clear and informative 👍 Thank You.
Hi Don, chances are that you will be ok for a while (say a few months) if you keep an eye on it but that black tar is the problem. It is what makes the repair time consuming and costly. Also, the "seat" at the bottom of the injector bore becomes damaged with time and that is why you have to re-cut them. If you catch it early, often the seat is ok and only the copper washer needs to be changed. The sooner you catch it, the easier the work is. Probably it started "chuffing" but now the tar is muffling the sound and it has become a slow creep. Although I didn't show it in the video, I changed all of the copper washers (all six injectors) on my car. On the ones, where there was little or no tar, it was a doddle and I changed the washers very quickly. You have done well to spot it early, so that it will be a faster and easier repair. Hope this helps!
Don, thanks for your feedback, glad you liked the video. I am in the middle of a house move right now but have some footage for videos that I hope to upload in the New Year! Thanks!
Hi i have just discovered this problem with 1 of my injectors on my cls320cdi and will be having a go at doing this repair now thanks for your video 🙂👍
Hi again I done it all repaired now she runs great thanks been a while since I wanted to do them because had other issues like swirl flap motor fail and turbo actuator fail but all working and fixed thanks 👍
@@dandicey764 Great work! Even with instructions, it's still quite a technical job 👍 Glad to hear it is all sorted and you're back on the road. Thanks for the update. 🙂 Cheers, Phil
Hi to my subscribers! I hope you like this video and find it interesting and informative. I hope this is my best video yet, please let me know if you agree! Constructive feedback and comments gratefully received. As always, if you have any questions, just ask and I will do my best to answer it!
Thanks a lot for the step by step AND especially listing the parts needed! Just ordered the Nissan washers from UK since I figured the whole reason the seals failed initially because of the original Mercedes washers. No point of buying the same MB ones and redo this repair in the future...
Thanks for your comment! Yep, 3 years since the repair and still going strong on mine! Just to confirm, they are "Honda washers part number is 1647RBDE00), I'm sure you already know that, just mentioning it for others! I said Nissan in the video but in the description the make & part number is correct. Honda washers are a little softer, so will accommodate any imperfections in the sealing surfaces better, they are also just a little thicker, which is good if you have had to recut a seat. Hope the repair goes well for you! 👍
@@ReviveMyRide my bad ,wanted to say Honda washers (not Nissan). Of course, it's a strange sensation when you pay 50$ for 6 washers and ship them across the world 😂 but again I think it's the core component in this repair.
Little update after completing this repair. Ironically the hardest part for me was disconnecting/reconnecting the fuel return (leak) line and actually keeping the plastic retainers in one piece. Unfortunately I broke couple retainers because of the carbon deposits around the plastic and because of how fragile they are once they ve been compromised by the "black death". Ordered a new leak line.
@@ilusha55 Thanks for the update, sounds like you are making good progress! Actually, those return line clips are quite tricky and yes, if the carbon has gotten around them then it can make them brittle too. So, new part on the way and then you should be good to go. Be warned, priming the fuel system can be time consuming too! If you have issues with it, check out the comments, there should be one pinned to the top with some instructions. 👍
Can the copper seal be the only fault and the injector is fine??My c-class 320 cdi one of my injectors is making a chuffing noise so there's definetly an air leak. No black carbon yet just light dampness from the diesel on the clamp.
Hi @robbocop33r12 Yes, the vast majority of the time, the problem is just the copper seal and from the symptoms you describe above, it definitely sounds like that is your problem. If you strike quickly before carbon builds up etc, you will do the job in half the time compared to if you have to do all of the labour intensive clean up! Also, you are unlikely to need a slide hammer type injector removal tool and probably not a seat cutting tool either. Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Got the injector leak early i think,only problem i had was releasing the fuel return black plastic clip!Got the injector out ok,there's a little ridge in the copper washer where it must have been leaking! I've had the car a month or so and only fault is if you're doing say 60mph and really floor it,eml light instantly comes up,low fuel pressure p0089,which i suppose a leaking injector would do. Today is the first time though the injector started chuffing noise,must have been slowly leaking worse and worse.
@@robbocop33r12 Good work with the injector seal! 👍 I never got the P0089 fault, with mine. Worth keeping an eye on it, I personally don't think the fault code was due to a leaking injector seal. There are a few things that can cause the P0089 fault, with the most likely one being a faulty fuel regulator. Fingers crossed it goes away and stays away though, sometimes they do! Cheers, Phil
When you have a leak is it possible to have a DTC? I have 2 fault codes, P2013 and P2031. I think injector 1 is leaking but it’s hard to tell if it’s the injector or the return line. Not to brag or anything but my car is in really good shape, Injector 1 might be leaking( or the return line). The foam was a bit dirty, the rail is super clean. When it’s running I can’t see any leak( I know it’s high pressure) I can hear a slight sound . The car has 114k miles. I wonder if I go ahead and replace the injector seals and return lines , will the check engine light go away?! Hmm Please advise. Thank you and Happy New Year. P.S I know it’s a 4 year old video and probably nobody will reply… I’m giving it a shot
Hi @marcelcovaci9922 Yes, although I haven't had it myself, I have heard from other owners that a fuel leak or a leaking fuel injector seal has triggered dtc's before. From your description, I think there is a good chance that one or more of your fuel injector seals are leaking. Sounds like you have caught it early and therefore, they will be much easier for you to change 👍 At that mileage, often the seals have started to fail already, so yours have done pretty good. If you DIY it, it's actually quite inexpensive to fix. Thanks, Phil
I have a 2011 e350 with a 265hp om642. I just checked the injectors after 250000km and found no leak😊. Does the latest evolution has this black death problem solved?
You’re doing the right thing checking 👍 as far as I know, they never changed the design but for whatever reason, you do come across cars that never experience the issue. Cheers, Phil
Mate you mentioned Nissan bolt as alternate but in description you given Honda ? Which one is correct , also can we use any chemicals to clean bore if we don’t have tools like ego or carbon cleaner spray
Hi, it’s a Honda alternative copper seal, part number should be in description. Up to you regarding cleaning materials, Seafoam works good. If you use something else, Just be mindful that the head is aluminium and that some may get into the cylinder if you use copious amounts of liquid, so use it sparingly and ideally use something to clock the bottom of the injector bore. cheers, Phil
That little return line plastic clip you took off mines was a pig to take off,how hard do you have to push to put it back on?Mines doesn't seem to go on as easily as i thought,don't want to break it.
@bobbaxter952 It's been a while since I did the job, I know I found the collar very tight to undo, so I used a spanner underneath it so that I could get even pressure lifting the collar up. I think when I pushed the collar back down, I used the same technique. From memory, if the collar doesn't want to go down, then it is because the fitting isn't fully pushed down onto the injector. Try removing it and refitting it, when you refit it, keep firm pressure downwards on the fitting and push the collar down at the same time. The collars are very stiff in moving both up and down and I was worried about breaking them too but got away with it. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Hi, as long as the injector doesn't look damaged and didn't get damaged during removal, especially on the sealing face where the copper seal sits, then you are fine to reuse it. In extreme black death cases where the injectors are almost welded in with the carbon, they often get badly damaged during removal, hence you will see a lot of info out there about replacing them. Cheers, Phil
Done that job Today. Just one injector for now, C350 so 5 more to go [ i sorta know they have a few leaks [cooler seals] . Years since i did owt like that. Did it with my 25yr old lad. Hes an engineer you know, he is ya know. knows everythin he does [Will see] . I cracked on i hadn't a clue, which i hadnt. Black death like ive never seen it , ya could chisel it out. My lad give up a few times. Went in for a warm . Apart from me breaking a clip or two. Had i watch your excellent video first. I wouldn't have broke them. We shall finish Tomorrow,see if he cottons on . Pffff, engineer my a..e....Lol. Great video, thanks so much for making and sharing fella. Go ta top at class lad.
Hi Brian, I think this is my favorite comment ever! Glad you liked the video and that it helped some. Good to see that you are getting stuck in! AND fantastic that you are working with your son on it. I work with my Dad sometimes, he's a good mechanic and I'm an engineer, so we have a similar dynamic going on! 😂
Hi, my understanding is that normally the EDC light is due to a fuel supply issue: fuel leak, fuel pump issue, blocked fuel filter etc. Also, I imagine (but don't have first hand experience of this) a bad fuel injector that is allowing too much fuel to pass. However, I don't think that "Black Death / leaking fuel injector seal", which is when combustion gases escape from the cylinder would cause the EDC light. BUT, many people get the EDC light after working on black death because they then have fueling problems, maybe from a leaking joint on the fuel rail or the diesel system isn't fully primed after completion of the work. Hope that helps! Phil
That’s a good question! I never worried about this but the car had been off all night before I started working on it the following day. I think if you felt concerned, you could carefully crack loose the nuts on the metal pipes that lead to each of the injectors.
Happy to let you sort out my Mercedes V Class black death if you want to make another video! Seriously, could you do this work for me? What would you estimate the cost to fix it? Cheers Simon.
Hi Simon, I really appreciate you trusting me to work on your car but I'm sorry, I don't have the liability insurances etc to work on other peoples cars. Hopefully the video has given you a good idea of what is required to do the job but the cost will depend on how bad the problem is: If all six injectors need to be resealed. If they have been leaking for a while and the injectors are now stuck in the head etc. You can get a good idea of how bad the problem is by removing the engine cover and having a good look for carbon build up around the injectors. As with everything, try to find a garage that is recommended by others and get a few quotes. Hope this helps and good luck getting your car sorted!
thank you for your video, and i have a problem my 2008 E320 BlueTEC was working great until that day on 2019 & from that day the engine stopped working, no one know what is the problem, even Mercedes Service Center didn't know how to solve the problem. so what do you suggest please? I have Mercedes star C4 & C6 now just I got them to diagnose the car. the engine crank, after diagnose i found that no pressure in the fuel rail which not allow the engine to start. and you are very expert in Mercedes engine. looking for your response please. best regards
Hi, as I'm sure you know, the fuel rail gets supplied by the high pressure fuel pump that is on the front of the engine. But the high pressure pump itself is fed from a fuel pump near the tank. Also, a blocked fuel filter can starve the pump and cause this problem. I haven't tackled this problem myself but: engine cranks but won't start (due to low fuel pressure) is fairly common problem and you will find a lot of videos on it and they will take you through the process. Here is one example of a video on it, you may be able to find one on your specific model too: ruclips.net/video/RAYp8l2Q250/видео.html Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thank you so much for your response & support, yes I have changed both of them and the fuel filter besides the crank sensor, nothing. Now I am going to the workshop to make diagnostics, I am thinking to make a video on this problem.
@@mrnourbaha HI, I'm not sure why I didn't think of this earlier but if you have fixed the original problem (Let's say it was the filter or sensor), then these engines and fuel rails are very sensitive to air locks / fuel priming. You will see in the comments on the Black Death video, lots of people having problems priming the car to start it after changing the fuel filter or a fuel injector. It might be worth you trying this: Ensure the fuel tank has enough fuel in it (put extra from a portable container if required), jack up the rear of the car, so that it is higher than the engine, crank to start the car a few times over about a 10mins time period, allow the starter motor to cool down / charge the battery, then try again. You my have to do this quite a few times but it will prime the fuel rail and may cure your low fuel pressure problem if it is just an airlock. Two things to be careful of: 1) If supporting the rear of the car using a jack only, be careful of it falling, ideally support it with axle stands too 2) Be very careful if you loosen any joints near the fuel injector or high pressure fuel pump, high pressure fuel leaks can be dangerous, don't put your hands near this areas when cranking / running the engine. If you do a video, drop me a link, would be interested to watch it! Thanks, Phil
To answer your point about why this is common: this happens to all Direct injection diesels regardless of manufacturer, made since approx 2006. To comply with euro emissions legislation, car manufacturers introduced stricter EGR and DPF measures but, crucially didn't fit oil catch cans. This meant that there was lots of blowback carbon and oil floating around the intake and fuel systems. A decent oil catch can will prevent this from happening again - I've fitted on on my BMW (sorry lol) 2008 5 series and have exactly the "Black Death" that you refer to - loud ticking and, on inspection really hard carbon deposits around the top of 3/4 injectors. I have a video on the catch can - have done another better one which is going up next week. Hth
Hi Jonathan, thank you for sharing your experience but I just have a question based on what you wrote. My understanding is that the Mercedes diesel is susceptible to the injector seal (copper at the bottom of the injector) deteriorating and that this is due to a suboptimal clamping system used on these engines. Are you saying that oily emissions recirculating through the intake (EGR system) contributes to premature failure of the seal? Or are you talking about a different phenomenon? Thanks!
New Subscriber Im re-seating the bosch injectors on my 2.2 mercedes vito after dealing with the black death, my question is,,, What size reaming tool should I use to recut the injector seat please ? Thanks in advance
Hi, I used a 17mm flat reamer to recut the seat on my car. I tried to look up the fuel injector for your Vito, so I could see if it is the same as the one for my car but no luck, as the site I use to check part numbers was playing up. However, if you measure the external diameter at the bottom of your injector (where the copper seal sits), this should tell you what size reamer you need. The reamer kit I used is in the description and there were a few different sized ones in the kit. Hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more questions and good luck with the work!
Thanks the video, I hv Mercedes printer 315 CDI 2008 model done 390.000Km Have an issue with smokie and fuel smell. smoke come randomly sometime big smoke sometime just a litle bit even sometime no smoke at all. before that I did replace cooper washer only 1 injector, also 3 months ago done DPF cleaning. need your advise. Thanks heaps.
Hi, happy to help if I can! Just to be clear, is the smoke and fuel smell coming from the engine bay and you smell it coming through the air vents into the car? If so, as you say, this may be linked to a fuel injector seal problem. If the smoke is coming out of the exhaust, that is a different issue entirely! Usually, if an injector seal is leaking, then you can see which one it is by inspecting and looking for carbon deposits building up around the fuel injector itself. If you have had 1 seal replaced, then the chances are the others aren't far behind. I recently did another follow up video that shows in much more detail exactly how to inspect and what to look for. I think the first step is for you to do the inspection. The video is here, hope it helps! ruclips.net/video/7weS1vQ_1OI/видео.html Thanks, Phil
Hi, I have a few ideas: 1) It is possible that there is dirt down the hole that the clamp / retaining bolt screws down into, this would stop it from tightening down as far as it needs to and therefore not compress the copper washer / seal enough. (don't be tempted to over tighten the bolt as there is a risk of punching through the bottom of the screw hole). 2) Did you use a Nissan copper seal (part number in vid description)? These are a little thicker and a little softer, so provide a better seal. 3) Is it possible that the seat at the bottom of the injector hole is dirty or scratched? If so, you can polish it up with some fine emery cloth on a stick. Or that the sealing face on the bottom of the injector is dirty or scratched? 4) Sorry to ask this one but did you replace the clamping bolt with a new one when you did the job? If not, it is possible that the old one is stretched and is now too long, not compressing the seal etc. Hope this helps!
How does the seal cutting tool work? I mean does it take off only the dirty or does it groove the injector seating as well? Would a dremel spinning wire brush work as well? Also did you remove the protective washer that you put earlier to prevent dirt falling into the cylinder while cleaning the injector washer seat? Thanks.
Hi, the cutting tool can be used just to clean up the seat a little bit or to recut it by taking more material off. However, if the seat just needs to be cleaned up a little, then I recommend using a piece of fine emery cloth (fastened in place by some double sided tape) to the bottom of a length of wood (similar to a broom handle but smaller diameter). Seat cutting should only be done if the seat is badly damaged and always done with caution taking off the minimum amount of material to make the seat good again. If the seat is cut too deep, there is a risk that the new seal won't be compressed enough to seal properly. I would be careful of a Dremel wire brush, you are correct that the washer that is sealing the seat needs to be removed to clean up the seat or to recut it, therefore, there is a risk of wire from the brush getting into the cylinder. Hope this helps!
I know there is very little difference but my understanding is 7 mm Then 90 + 90, not 8 mm 90+90. I also have read that the Honda copper seals are good to use too.
I enjoyed the video. I have a 2010 blutec that starts fine when cold. After 10 min of driving it throws a low rail pressure code and starves for fuel and dies. If I then let the fuel pump re pressure up then it starts again. But, soon as I give it gas it dies. I have replaced the fuel filter, tank pump, and high pressure pump. No difference. Could an injector leak enough when warm to cause these symptoms? I do not have any of the carbon build up on my injectors. Car has 75k miles. Thanks for any suggestions.
Hi, sorry for the slow reply. I haven't come across this problem before personally, so I did some reading. You have already tackled the things most likely to be causing the problem. You are right that when the leaking injector "black death" gets bad enough, then the car will struggle to start / run but I really don't think this is your problem as you would definitely see the carbon build up in the engine bay and even start getting some fumes in the cabin. There is another kind of injector fault where fuel leaks into the cylinders but this would cause rough running and excessive smoke. I know you have replaced the in tank pump and filter but the only things I can suggest are testing the pressure that you are getting from it by introducing a pressure gauge after the in tank pump near the filter. If you haven't already seen it, check out this thread where they talk about min fuel pressure before and after the filter near the tank www.benzworld.org/threads/p0087-fuel-rail-system-pressure-too-low.2446665/ The other suggestion is that there is some talk about a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail failing / becoming faulty. Hope this helps!
Thanks a lot for the vid! Helped me out big time, will have to do this to my car. I have just one injector leaking slightly, and not nearly as bad as in this example, but will probably change all the seals while i am at it as preventive maintenance. Any tips on cleaning the injectors themeselves? Thanks again
Hi, glad the video has helped you and thanks for your comment! :-) There are videos on RUclips, where people have shown how to build a DIY fuel injector cleaning rig and run cleaning solutions through their injectors. This can help the injectors go back to supplying fuel in a mist, rather than as a stream and give better combustion. Be careful though, running the cleanser through your injectors can cause a flammable atmosphere, so you need to be aware and takes steps to prevent a fire. I haven't tried this myself but it is one of the things I am interested in doing on my Merc!
Great documentation. I suppose the 220cdi engine will have to be done in a similar fashion. I’m having exhaust fumes in the cabin at standstill and have noticed the pfft sound at idle.
Hi Ole, yes, from your description, it definitely sounds like a leaking injector seal. I just checked the diagrams and some of the part numbers are slightly different between the two engines but the clamp and seal arrangement looks very similar. Please be aware that the clamp and securing screw for your engine is a different part number but the seal itself is the same. I recently carried out a 2yr inspection following the repair I did on my car, with good results :-) It's not that difficult to do if you take your time and take a methodical approach. Inspection video if you want to check it out (but it is on the v6 engine again) ruclips.net/video/7weS1vQ_1OI/видео.html Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide I did the old “mechanic’s stethoscope” aka a tube in the ear test yesterday and clearly the #1 cylinder from the right front wheel is making the noise, the other three are quiet. I’ll order parts and a sliding hammer, just in case today. There’s no black stuff to be seen yet, we may have caught it very early. Thanks for your videos and reply. I’ll post my findings and results. I’ll send you videos and pictures if you find them useful for your channel. PS: i did. watch your follow-up video. Great results on that one ☝️
@@olewurtz7625 Hi, yes, great idea, I haven't used the mechanics stethoscope method for a while but it can be very effective! Yes, if you don't mind and have the time, it would be great to see your results. Hope the work goes well, sounds like you know what you are doing! 👍
@@ReviveMyRide I finally manned up and went for the offending injector (seal). I should have bought a seal cutting tool in advance. Buy from Amazon and you can return, if unused. But I didn’t, so no I have to see if a local tool supply shop has one tomorrow, because my wife needs the car running by Tuesday and Amazon’s earliest delivery is Wednesday. I’ve taken some pictures, where can I send them to you ? PS: I’m pretty sure I need to refinish the seat. I have matching traces of blow through on the seat and the washer. Don’t you think so ?
@Ole Wurtz Yeah, it can be difficult if you need the car running and this type of work can be time consuming! If you have inspected the seat (and cleaned it with a bit of emery cloth) and you can see tracks or damage in the seat, then you are right, you will need to recut it. But when you do, take your time and cut out the minimum of material required to get the seat clean again. I'm happy to look at pictures, but sometimes it is difficult to tell from a photo. Thanks, Phil
Hi, thanks for your question! I cleaned up the sealing face of the injector with some fine emery cloth prior to refitting, just to make it key in to the new copper washer better. The sealing faces on the injectors are steel, so it is very rare for them to be damaged, as opposed to the head which is much softer, with it being aluminium and hence, they sometimes need to be recut. No, the injectors are all still sealed perfectly, almost 2 years and 30k miles since this video was done. Hope this helps! Thanks, RMR
Thanks for your message, good luck with sorting out the problem with yours. If you have any questions as you work through it, let me know and I will help if I can!
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@@lewismugambi8714 Hi, from the info you provided, I am assuming your car is a C class W204. I just had a look and your car still uses the same fuel injector as mine does (mine is a CLK C209 320 cdi 2007). So, you should be able to use the same seat cutter as I did. The one you need is the 17mm flat reamer. They often sell them in kits (see this link for info - amzn.to/338zKeb ), if you read the info on Amazon, the one you need is described as "17mm x 17mm Flat Reamer for Delphi/Bosch injectors (BMW/PSA/Renault/Ford)" but you may be able to just pick up the one you need separately if you shop around. Hope this helps! Thanks, Phil
Hi @igorocchipinti1671 Really sorry, I made an error in the video. It is definitely a Honda seal and the part number in the description is correct. BTW, mine are still going strong since I made this video several years ago... Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRideHi Phil, I would like to ask you if you recommend opening the injectors to clean them as I have seen done in many tutorials or is this something that should be done exclusively by professionals? Thanks in advance, Igor
@@igorocchipinti1671 hi, I’ve seen some of those videos too! In principle, it’s a really good idea because in older diesel cars, the injectors stop giving a “mist” pattern and you get a “jet” of fuel instead = less fuel economy and the car smokes under heavy acceleration. So, depending on your level of diy skill, I would say yes, you could build a rig to push cleaning fluid through the injectors and it would be a big improvement BUT the biggest risk is creating a flammable atmosphere due to the product that is coming through the injectors. If in any doubt best to use a professional cleaning company. Hope this helps a bit, it is something I would attempt but I would do a lot of research first. Thanks, Phil
Hi, no, I'm pretty sure that the engine / ECU doesn't know there is a problem unless it gets very severe and starts to cause running / starting issues. Not sure what the fault code would be at this point. As you say, it really is a case of waiting for the symptoms. You can keep an eye on it by periodically removing the engine cover and having a look for carbon deposits near the fuel injectors. Some people just decide to replace the injector seals at 80 - 100k miles. Personally, I would do the periodic check, the engine cover pops off really easily and you would probably only need to check a couple of times a year. Hope that helps!
Hi @Josue-rd5gt I think from one of your other comments, you got this sorted and bought a set of torx bits. I'm not 100%, I "think" it was T30, let me know if I was right! 😂
Hi, Sorry, I said the wrong name in the video, it is actually a Honda fuel injector seal. Here's the info: Honda diesel fuel injector seals (copper washers) part number is 1647RBDE00 UK link: tidd.ly/2J2kDMD USA: Not sure where to buy these in USA but you could try the Honda main car dealers If you prefer to use the MB fuel injector seal, the part number is: A6110170060 Thanks, Phil
That’s a really good question Yuri! If I’m honest, I don’t know for sure but as I have an engineering background I can speculate: it could be, the softer the better in terms of getting a seal, in which case annealing is a great ideas (I do this all of the time to reuse oil pan plug washers if I have forgotten to buy one!). However, it could be that the washer manufacturers have considered this and have rolled and stamped the copper to achieve a certain hardness. In which case, annealing would be counter productive. Personally, I wouldn’t anneal the washers because of this unknown. But if you try it, just keep inspecting regularly and drop me a message about it! Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Great Video and Very motivational. My car was parked just because of this since last year ( i really loved this diesel) After i watched your video i decided to fix everything and i did as i learned from you that take time and be patience with everything ordered all the parts and Tools needed or you recommended. I just finished everything and i made sure everything is up to its standard as you explained. Now car is not starting i try to start is couple of times to take the air out of fuel system. Car doesn't start now , before it was running and battery is good as well. Any recommendations?? What i look into next ?
Hi, it sounds like you did everything right. Sometimes the diesel can take a like of priming, and especially if you have changed all of the seals and therefore, all of the injectors have been disconnected. The best thing you can do is to charge up your battery again and try again by turning the key to run the fuel pump for a few seconds and then then turn it back off again. Do this at least half a dozen times and then try again cranking to start. Here is a link that will give you extra info about this problem, it is very common: forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/bleeding-fuel-after-pipe-pump-repair-w210-e320-cdi.128019/ Just one extra thing to add. If you follow the advice in the link to loosen a connection near the injector a little and to crank the car (to bleed the fuel through), don't go anywhere near the engine with your hands etc while you are cranking / running the engine , the fuel is under very high pressure and a very fine spray of fuel can easily cut your skin. Hope this helps, please let me know how you get on! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thank You so much for your prompt response, i can't thank you much after reading the thread you shared i find out the possible cause it was the air in the system in my case my car was in the my garage due to a little incline it was nose up so i jacked it up from behind, fuel tank was around a quarter tank i put more fuel to half the tank and battery was all drained due to cranking again and again and so put the battery on a charger and left the car for a day. Next day came back did the self air out sequence few times with and then very first times when i cranked it started. Woow great I can't thank you much with your help i was able to revive my ride and now i have confidence in it. In this process i also put new fuel filter, new air intake seals and also new air filters .
@@tayyabir5873 Great work Reviving Your Ride! Glad you got it sorted out and will now be back on the road! Thanks for your comment above, it's really great to hear back from you and to know you got it fixed. 😁
Thanks a lot !! Very well explained, if all tutorials were like yours it would save humanity. I just have a problem with the first connectors you remove, the one you remove at 3:34 I can not connect it back all the way in, and the one at 3:42 I just can't get it out. I see the little gray thing on the left of it, I pull it, but no matter how hard I pull it won't come out. Am I doing it wrong? Or is it seized (230000km car, never been removed) Thanks!! :)
Hi defalt, thanks for your comment, glad you liked the video! To be honest, the electrical connectors can be difficult and take some time to remove, especially if they haven't been off for a while. The first one at 3:34 is the mass air flow meter. For this one, you have to squeeze the sides of the clip (nearest to where the wires are) pretty hard. There is a plastic tab / lever on both sides and both of these need to disengage for the clip to come off. Sometimes it helps to push the connector a little further on while squeezing before trying to pull it off. I sometimes use some wide opening pliers to squeeze the connector tabs but you have to be careful not to damage them! For the second one, at 3:42, you also need to squeeze this hard but the focus is on the "grey piece" which you squeeze inwards towards the wires. One other idea I have got is a little bit of silicone spray may help. I hope this helps, it is actually quite hard to describe how it is done!
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I have been a manufacturing specialist with Rolls-Royce aero for 45 years. Nothing impresses me with engineering any more I’ve seen it all! However I have to say this video is absolutely bloody marvellous well done thank you very much!
Hi, just wanted to say thanks very much for the feedback. I feel very humbled to receive a comment like this from someone with your background and experience! It makes me feel encouraged to continue to try to produce high quality content. :-)
Revive My Ride What a lovely reply thank you. It was a pleasure to watch, very simple explaination. I was particularly impressed with the finish you got on the seats after cutting with such a rudimentary tool, and coating it with cutting compound was a good idea to keep the swarf out of the cylinder! You are a proper engineer! Good luck buddy.
Spot on comment best vid on this subject.Why because of the small tips that will help to complete the job. Thanks
Yes yes me too, I'm an engineer for NASA 😂
Just the way it should be done very few mechanics do it like this when I was a mechanic finishing in the 90s I carried out repairs with the same proficiency well done brother your a dying breed ,I’d trust you on my Mercedes any time ,hats off to you.👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Very informative and good calm speaking voice. No silly talk. Great video. Will watch you again.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video! I’ve got a video coming up on Mercedes front coil springs and will be going for a similar style of information delivery 👍
99% of all youtubers should learn from U how to make a video. I have to thank u for making this very good video. It is informativ and pleasent to watch - neither did I get any stressydrom. Just fantastic how easy U make it.
viking1ur, thank you for the kind comments, much appreciated! :-)
This is the best technical video with clear explanation for injector removal I’ve ever watched on RUclips. Thanks for your time and effort. Subscribed 👍
Hi Ahmet, thank you so much for your comment! Glad you liked the video and great to have you as a subscriber! Thanks, Phil
Just following your instructions to a 'T' as one of my injectors from my Merc GL320 CDI has the 'Black Death.' Fantastic lesson at a perfect speed for a first timer down here in Adelaide, Australia. Thank you so very much - I've subscribed, thank you.
Great to have a viewer and new subscriber from Aus! I love it out that way... Glad the video is helping you 👍😎 cheers, Phil
An excellent video, well presented. However, two issues, firstly there was no mention about which way around the copper washer goes. The domed surface faces the injector. The second issue is in the way the copper washer is fitted. If you rely on the friction fit to the injector tip, as you lower the assembly into the hole, if the washer falls off it can turn in the bore and end up the wrong way around. I use a long thin cable tie, slide the copper washer up the cable tie and lower into the hole until the tip of the plastic has entered the cylinder. Release the copper washer and it will end up in place facing the correct way. Remove the cable tie and you can then lower the injector into the hole and continue with the assembly.
Hi, thanks for your comment and the extra info! I did research the topic of the washer. Info was hard to find but everything I found said that it could be fitted either way up. I did all 6 of mine, so some were bound to be a mix of dome shape up and down but I haven’t seen any issues… I don’t suppose there is any information that you can link to is there? If not, no worries I’ll take your word for it, you seem to have experience! Thanks, Phil
Hi, I have the official Merc workshop manual and there is no info given. Rightly or wrongly, I decided to fit the domed end of the copper washer onto the alloy head rather than the injector. I've not had any issues. The logic being, I'd rather the rounded, or domed face of the copper washer come into contact with the aluminium seat thus minimising the risk of the copper washer causing any localised deformation of the alloy seating face. Even though I know the cooper washer is softer than the aluminium head.
Also, pressure = force divided by area. The marginally smaller the area (due to the rounded rather than square sheared edge of the copper washer), the greater the sealing pressure on the copper washer for the same bolting force.
I didn't have to recut my seats as they looked in very good condition. So, I figured if there was any minor irregularities in the alloy seat, the copper washer would have a marginally greater pressure on it to 'flow' into them and in theory a better chance of sealing. That said, it probably doesn't make any real difference! I've not had any issues since.
I'll note the orientation next time I remove a set of injectors. I have to do that soon to replace the rocker / valve cover on my W447 - which is annoying!
Quite a more in depth procedure -seat refurbishing and keeping the dirt out than most. Thanks
Thanks for your comment! Glad you liked the video :-)
RUclips doesn't get better than this fine man. Big thumbs up
Thank you for the comment, much appreciated! :-)
I'm about to change my air filters, when I do I shall be inspecting my injectors. If clear of black death I'll still inspect every 5000 miles.
Thanks for a very clear concise video.
Thanks for your comment! Sounds like a good plan! Best not to mess with the injectors unless you have to, the seals may never fail and there is always the risk of accidentally causing a problem when doing this king of work.
Well done, no annoying music, great explanation. Looking forward to more videos.
Hi George, thanks for your comment, glad you liked the video! Just a favour to ask - I have actually introduced music on my later videos, although I try to keep it in the background most of the time. If you have time, would be interested to hear what you think about the music in them - annoying? or ok? Thanks!
You deserve tumb up, excellent video, excellent job, thanks you publish it
Thanks very much for the kind comment, really appreciate it! 👍😎
This is a great video; just the right amount of detail and I with no knowledge of cars could follow along. Alas… this issue is exactly what I have at this time.
I have a query I hope viewers may answer - I have a 2007 2.2 diesel E class, 152000 miles on the clock. I live in Scotland. I had the car in for an MOT last month and whilst having the MOT work done the mechanic also diagnosed an issue with an injector that was producing the ‘hiss hiss’ sound. I have to say I never noticed any big issues with the car's engine/overall performance prior to the visit.
He installed a single new injector and I understand washers too but on return of the car to me the car was vibrating noticeably whilst an idle. I took the car back, he performed more work and the roughness subsided for about 3 weeks only for the roughness to return yesterday. I recall him telling me the injector was difficult to remove.
From watching this video I have just had a look at the injector/cyclinder head area. I can clearly see heavy black wet deposits and clearly see and feel the ‘hiss hiss’. The injectors were very easy to locate. The replacement injector is ( i think) not clamped down with a torx screw... whereas the other 3 injectors are.
Video of my car - ruclips.net/video/ip99tlKHf_o/видео.html
I will clean the area up today and give the car to the mechanic tomorrow. The car drives ok, I did 2 50 mile trips ok before noticing a repeat of the fault and this video but other symptoms are the rev counter wavers at idle and the vibration (annoying as hell !) when idle.
There are no warning lights on dashboard BTW.
Can anyone comment on what has resulted in the ‘hiss hiss’ returning after 3 weeks and what the mechanic must do from here on to fully resolve the issue ? I also understand from comments that the new injector must also be coded ? I do not know if coding was done as I only discovered this aspect last night.
I recall the mechanic telling me that if the injector was worn it can have an effect on it's alignment with the cylinder head which could result in the repair job outweighing the value of the car… comments please ? £500 paid so far (ex MOT work) so I am keen to get this issue fixed at no further cost to me. Thanks all.
Lets start with a huge THANKS&GRATITUDE 🤗
Hands down the best mechanic walkthrough I've seen! I'm actually so impressed that I can't even express myself.... all the positive good words in the dictionary go to you my man😇
Thank you so much for your kind words!! I'm speechless! Feedback like this makes the hard work that goes into the videos worth it! Cheers and best wishes, Phil
Every word here is what I can say as well. How I wish I had such a mechanic!
I have a T1N Sprinter that is now slightly over 100k miles. I have not inspect under the cover yet but thinking that sooner or later I will need to perform out this cured work. Thanks for putting the time and care in making this video. It is the best out there in clarity.
As others have said, a great video, thank you! I have a problem though that I'm hoping someone on here may be able to answer.
I have the same engine (installed in a Merc 320 CDI, 2008). All has gone well so far with my injector seal replacement, but I'm now stuck at the seat-cutting/reaming stage. The video clearly shows the use of a 17mm flat cutting head, and other references I've found (not that there are many) also recommend the use of the 17mm flat cutter. However, in my case, the 17mm cutter appears only to be making its mark on the very outer surface of the seat, as if the actual injector seat is a 15mm diameter face inset a few mm below a 17mm bore. (at 17:41 in the video, you can see what appears to be a raised 'ring' surrounding the main circular area of the seat). From what I've read, only light pressure is required on the cutting tool, but I've applied more pressure more times than I'm now comfortable with, and still the cutter does not appear to be making contact with the primary face of the seat.
I've tried the 15mm cutter and this does appear to make full contact with the seat face, so perhaps my seat is in fact 15mm? The only problem I have with that is that the copper washer is known to be 15mm in diameter, so surely this tolerance is too tight? Surely the 15mm washer should fit into a 17mm seat, thereby allowing the washer to expand as the hold-down clamp stretch-bolt is tightened?
Any thoughts, anyone? Should I perservere with the 17mm cutter or are some of these engines equipped with injectors that use 15mm seats rather than 17mm?
Hi, hopefully others will see your message and contribute their experience too. However your comment has jogged my memory. Somewhere in the comments someone else mentioned using a smaller cutter for the reason you describe. Also, I cut a couple of seats on my car (didn’t show them all) and I’m pretty sure on one one of them, the casting near the bottom about 10mm above the seat was a little narrow for the 17mm cutter, maybe by about 1mm? I was very patient with the cutter and persevered with it. I kept cleaning the debris off of the blade and applying more grease. Eventually the cutter took a small “skim” out of the casting in the bore which allowed it to reach down to the seat. I then cleaned up the seat with the cutter as normal. Hope that helps and the description made sense!
@@ReviveMyRide Hi, great to see your comprehensive reply, many thanks! Yes, the issue you describe is exactly what I found with this injector bore (thankfully I only had to do one). Your description of your own experience, coupled with your comment that you'd read about someone else needing to use a smaller cutter gave me some reassurance. In the end, I reasoned that the injector had come out of the existing bore and therefore it should be happy being returned to a bore of the same diameter, so I stuck with the 15mm cutter.
I also used the Honda-manufactured copper washer that you suggested (and also recommended by other DIY enthusiasts). In my case, the extra thickness of this washer (when compared with the Mercedes original) served to compensate for the material I had to remove from the injector seat (see below), so this was a good call. I'm now pleased to report complete success with ths job, so many thanks again for making and posting such an informative video.
Incidentally, the seat of my actual injector had been eroded by the blowback gasess, so in addition to cutting the bore seat I also had to reface the injector as well! (If anyone is iinterested in how I did this, please ask/comment and I'll explain). This took some effort, especially bearing in mind the need to keep the injector face level and flat. I was actually on the point of replacing the injector, but I changed my mind when I learned that new/replacement injectors need to be CODED to the car's ECU! I now understand why this is, but it's a fact of which, until now, I was ignorant. So please bear this in mind if you go down the replacement route. Obviously a garage can do the coding (at additional cost) and I understand that some of the newer, high-end code readers can also code injectors. If the coding isn't done, anything from poor runnning to the car failing to start can occur, so it's an essential step. It also applies if you swap the positions of the existing injectors as they are coded for their positions as well as their individual operating characteristics.
@@willcram8350 hi, thanks for your reply above, all really interesting stuff! Good work refinishing the sealing face on the injector! None of mine were damaged but I had heard that it can happen, most people replace the injector but as you say, apart from the cost of a new injector, that then introduces the need for coding etc. One thing I didn’t know (and thanks for sharing) was the implications of not coding. I thought it led to a slight loss of running performance (minor trimming of the fuelling due to injector calibration) not that it could cause non start and other significant problems. I actually had another viewer asking me about coding and non start on FB, so I forwarded on the info you shared! Anyway, good work and happy days that you got it all sorted! 😎🙌👍 thanks, Phil
@@willcram8350 hi! Thank you for your input on seat cutting and productive discussion with the author! Would really love to read how you re-surfaced the injector seat. Thanks.
I retorq 7Nm and two 45 degrees, but you doing 8Nm and two 90, where is right answer?
This is a tricky one! I also have found a few different methods and torque levels for these bolts. All I can suggest is find the info source that you trust and go with it. What I will say is that the bolts break very easily, personally I will be trying less torque next time, maybe the 7Nm + 2x 45deg as you suggest. Cheers, Phil
Thank you. I have to do one on the Jeep Grand cherokee wj, and this video is the best one I've ever seen. You're a very good instructor, teacher .
Thank you very much! Good luck with the work, hopefully the carbon deposits aren’t too bad on yours, clean up is the time consuming part of the job. Cheers, Phil
@ReviveMyRide did an oil change four weeks ago. It was clean, only noticed smoke coming out of the engine the other day, and was shocked a pool of black goo all over the first injector leaking to the second looks like a mess got four cans of carbon cleaner. 😳
Great information well put together. Thank you from someone considering an ML 350 cdi with about 80k miles. 2010 manufacture year.
Hi @richbrett7268 Thanks for the kind comment! I wouldn't let the leaking fuel injection issue put you off of these cars. The OM642 is a fantastic engine apart from this small issue. If tackled early (just check it from time to time), it's actually quite an easy fix... Cheers, Phil
I found that a spray can of starting fluid with one of those little red extension tubes was very helpful to clean the debris out of the bolt hole that holds the injector down. Then another can of compressed air blows the starting fluid out. It made the bolt hole extremely clean and prevented the bolt from bottoming out to soon and affecting the torque pressure.
Hi Dennis, this is a really good tip! Thanks for sharing! :-) Cheers, Phil
Thank you so much! Question though, I assume the injector face where it sits on the seal needs to be perfect? Mine has a slight groove for about 30 degrees around. And although it's better now, it's still chuffing.
Also what size cutting tool do you use for these?
Lastly, what is it that keeps the injector held down TIGHT, just that little wishbone?
Thank you sir.
Hi, The seat damage will almost certainly be causing you problems. I used a flat 17mm cutter but it did shave a tiny amount of material from the bore walls down near the bottom (probably because it is a cast part). Yes, just the little "wishbone" bracket holding down the injector but please take special note of the part in the video where I am clearing out the threaded hole for the bolt that holds it down. If there is debris in there, the bolt won't go down fully. Check the description for the part number for the Honda seal, these work better than the Merc ones. Also, if you are going to remove it again, ideally you need a new bolt. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
just come across your channel - looking at getting a C Class Coupe for my wife - had heard horrible things about the 'Black death' and the costs to solve - you have just put my mind at rest and I know now what to look for and how to solve if necessary. Great work - keep it up
Thanks for your comment and glad that the video was helpful! I think they are great cars and as long as you are aware of this issue, then you can keep an eye on it and if necessary, catch it and fix it early before it becomes a big issue. cheers!
I have yet to do mine? but a nice clear video for instriction purposes, well done!.
Cheers! 👍😀
Thank God for Amazon in the same day delivery. I just ordered what I was missing from Amazon using your links.
Great! I do make a small commission from purchases from the link but the real reason the links are there are to help people out with the exact tools they need. Glad they helped you out 👍 Cheers, Phil
As a qualified diesel fitter I find your video very informative with great explanation on not just how it is done but also why you need to do it that way. Lots of videos dont tell people the "why" part. Also a lot of videos show the job being performed with shifters and tools that can end up with other issues due to them not really being the best choice. Yes, not everyone has the right tools and like you have shown, researching ahead and buying thr right tools helps avoid disasters. This is why for most people workshops are too expensive due to the outlay and overhead costs being so large. You have managed to give a great tutorial for novices on how to perform the job without causing further damage. Well done mate. A lot of people will benefit from your efforts. Cheers
Leanne Krosch, really appreciate your comments! I'm always interested in trying to cover what tools are required and why. As you say, a lot of people (diy) will do this job as a one off, so I try to find cost effective specialist tools. Hopefully people can watch the video and decide if they want to tackle the job or send it to a specialist such as yourself. Thanks!
I've used your video in the past to change injectors on a ML270
I'm about to do it again on my E350
Thankyou very much 👍👍👍
@norfolkbushmanandfriends791 That's great to hear! Appreciate the comment! 👍😎 BTW, I have an E350 cabriolet that I fixed up from salvage, If you didn't see it the videos are on my channel. Great car!
@@ReviveMyRide I had mine re mapped, the difference in torque & power are amazing 👍👍
@@norfolkbushmanandfriends7916 I'm super interested in this! But, it's my wife's car now that it's done and she says it is fast enough 😭
Nice one bud this is by far the best video I’ve seen explaining the Black Death and how to sort it,thank you
Thanks very much for your message and I’m glad you found the video useful! Thanks, Phil
Thank you very much for this video, I have issues with exhaust smell inside my E320 Bluetec, checked injectors and sure one of them is leaking fumes inside engine bay. There is not much carbon build up around injectors, hope I'll be able to replace those washers. I'm going to check more of your videos because they are very informative, thank you again!
Thanks for the comment! If it is leaking injector seals, then you are right to tackle them early, the job gets much more difficult once the carbon build up starts. Glad you are enjoying the vids :-)
Btw the reamer kit you recommended did not include a 15mm x 17mm flat reamer that my ml320 cdi needed.. I am still thankful for the video!
I'm really sorry about that! Thanks for letting me know, I will go check the link! The problem is that Amazon keeps delisting the tools and then I have to go find another one. Originally, I was linked to the exact tool I used, so I knew it worked! Glad you liked the video and thanks for your comment!
MASSIVE thanks! Thanks for taking the time and effort to produce this video. Now I can keep on driving my beloved 'BRUTUS' because you've teached me how to fix my leaky fuel injector.
Hi Michael, thanks very much for your kind comments, really pleased the video helped you! Cheers, Phil
Just watched your video. Very, very well presented👍🏻. If I could be so bold as to maybe add a tiny tip to your great thread cleaning bolt, I would recommend applying a thin coat of grease to the slot. This helps to hold any debris collected. Another point that may or may not be important is in using a thicker sealing washer. Will using a thicker washer "lift" the injector by an amount that may cause issues in the fuel delivery? I doubt it myself but just thought I'd put that question out there. Many thanks again for your time and trouble making this informative video.
Thank you, some very good comments there! Yep, great idea about the grease on the “thread cleaning tool”. I’m pretty sure that is exactly what I did but may not have mentioned it in the video, so thanks for highlighting it! Slightly thicker injector seal - many people in the Merc community have been using this exact washer for quite a while now, so I would go so far as to say it is “proven”. It’s particularly useful if you have had to skim the seat with a cutting tool. Thanks for your contribution! 👍
Hi and thank you for a great channel and yes my injectors are playing up at 97000 miles on my E250 cdi bluefficiency, ime going to investigate with your help 👍👍👍
Thank you! Yes, sounds like a good idea, the earlier you tackle it the better. If early enough, less carbon clean up and often no need to recut seats 👍 cheers, Phil
Terrific video, watching you do this with your tips throughout has given me new confidence to tackle this myself, Mercedes would probably want a $1000 AUD, I can probably get it done for half that with some new tools and self-esteem, thanks for sharing, from Aussie down under.
Thanks for your comment, it's music to my ears and the reason why I try to go into such detail in the video! Also, great to have a message from down under! Take your time with it and if you have any Q's pop them on here and I'll try to help if I can! Thanks, Phil
Very clear and easy to follow video. Well done.
Thank you for the kind comment, much appreciated! Cheers, Phil
Way above my own skill set but good to know what my local garage are doing to my W639 V6 3L CDi right now!! Great video
Thanks very much for the positive feedback :-)
Great video, helpful and covered all the points, I have been told that if possible to spray some wd40 or brake cleaner around the injectors to help removal and if sludge is really bad oven cleaner to loosen that sludge
Thank you! Yes, I’ve heard that all of those products do work 👍 One thing I would have been keen to try is starting the job with a warm engine. The heat stays around for quite a while and apparently makes a big difference to getting the injectors out. Just be careful not to touch anything hot! Cheers, Phil
Thank you 😊 I’m not diesel specialist so I know what tool is needed to buy for it ))
Happy to help!
Thanks for the DIY description_Video : fantastic, and happiness here on the 2005- E220CDI 329000 km, and thanks for links to the tools ! Cheers from Norway !
Hi @cat1stevens nice to have a viewer from Norway! Thank you for your kind comments, glad you liked the video 👍 329,000km! That's almost 200,000 miles (sorry we are slow to catch on with metric for driving distances in the UK 😂) Best wishes for many more happy miles in your Mercedes! These are good cars with good engines and transmissions... Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide have had 2 changes on the circuit-board on the AT, as i managed to brake a pin, when i changed the adapter, for the controlcable during oilchange , and back in 2016, i had to repair the ECU: Thanks to Steven Lewis :ruclips.net/video/kynXjan7O0Q/видео.html (computer-error-that was solved using BDM-100)
@@cat1stevens That is one of the risks when doing planned maintenance, it is possible to intrude problems. Glad you got it sorted, will check out your links for future reference 👍 cheers, Phil
Hi, great videos as always, followed the instructions in your gearbox video made the job easier than I expected, just a quick question the feed from the fuel rail to the injector will that be pressurised ? Will it normal therefore to have some residual fuel come out of the connector? Will make sure the battery is disconnected
Hi, yes, if the engine has been running recently, it will be pressurised and it is very high pressure at the injector too. This does dissipate quickly once the joint is cracked though. I left the car overnight before starting the job and there was no pressure there. I know a lot of people advocate doing this job with a warm engine as it makes the injectors easier to remove, so it must be possible to undo the fuel connection if the car has been running recently, just be careful and maybe wear gloves as a precaution. Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thank you for your reply, I’m going to tackle this job this weekend, cylinder 2 is flagging up on my diagnostic reader, the cars presenting with a rough idle, going to switch the injector with one of the others to diagnose whether it’s the injector or maybe the wiring or ecu. Wish me luck. Thank you again, your a legend all your videos are very informative
@@yasarilyas6081 No probs at all! Sounds like you are pretty handy with the tools. Enjoy the work and hope you resolve the issue 👍 Cheers, Phil
thanks for the video. Do I need to change all injectors or do i look for the leaking ones?
Hi, you can just replace the bad one, it should be quite obvious but tbh, I did all of mine in the theory that if one had gone, the others wouldn’t be far behind. Also, the longest part of the job is getting the injector out (if there is carbon around it) and cleaning up around where you’ve had a leaking injector. On injectors where the seal hasn’t started leaking yet, you will change them very quickly. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Thank you for the video, had mine done today and for my surprise, the middle right injector didn’t even have a washer. Only thing I didn’t have was the hammer puller so I used WD40 and a rocking movement to get them out. Did all 6. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Augusto Barale thanks for your comment, glad the video helped give you some information. Weird that a washer was missing! Yes, you are correct if you are patient and the injectors aren't stuck too badly, you can remove them exactly as you described :-)
Nice video, thank you. My om642 only has 70k km and still looks prestine, but I like to have all the parts in stock for future endeavors... just one silly question, why not use one of the old bolts as your cleaning bolt? I just state that because most complete kits only come with the 6 bolts. Cheers 🍺
Hello, this is nothing to do with i njectors, but your channel is so easy to understand and precise, i was wondering if you could give me some advice regarding my e220 2007 mercedes, the parking brake seems to have come out, as in it seems not be connected to anything, prior to this, it always seemed a bit reluctant to release, i know its a long shot but you seem very clued up, thank you
Hi Charles, as it happens the release mechanism sticks on my Merc too but thankfully it still works (for now). If the mechanism fails, then it is usually due to one of the cables. Depending on your problem: If it is the release lever that feels like it is doing nothin then it could be cable item 190 in the attached diagram but in this case, the parking brake would stay on and you would struggle to get the car to move.
nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/fg/211006/64u/42/145/
OR if it is the pedal that is failing to set the parking brake (the pedal just goes down with little or no resistance), it is most likely to be cable item 80. However, please note that if the left rear (Item 230) or right rear (item 240) cables fail you might feel some resistance but not as much as normal because just one side of the parking brake is operating. I hope this makes sense and is of use to you! If you decide to purchase a new cable, please double check part numbers before ordering and it is worth checking with the Mercedes dealers because they are generally very helpful and surprisingly competitive on prices for some parts. It would be great to hear how you get on if you have time to message back! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Good afternoon Phil, first of all let me wish you a happy and healthy new year, thank you for your response, l am not much good with mechanics, but after seeing your videos it might be worth having a look at the park brake system if it isnt too complicated,, i will let you know the outcome thanks again
@@charlesalderson9738 Sounds good! I haven't looked at this system myself, so I'm not sure how easy it is to access and work n. Good luck with it!
I have a Jeep Crd 3.0 V6 with the Merc motor (OM642) and this is a problem I have only the right side head, my vehicle struggles to start and is underboosting and heavy on fuel. I hope this is the solution. I bought the vehicle at a bargain price and if this is the fix, I'd be sooo happy.
The video was really really helpful! Great job!
Thanks and glad you liked the video! Good luck with sorting your car out!
great video!! I am having difficulty figuring out which tool will work with my car - 2008 GL 320. Are all Mercedes diesels the same? What car were you working on specifically?
Thanks! 🙂 The car featured in the video was a W209 2007 CLK 320 cdi. The engine is the OM642. On the wiki page for this engine, it lists the usages and years and you car is listed! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_OM642_engine Hope that helps. Thanks, Phil
Did you have to re learn the ecu for the new injectors? Mercedes says that we have to and if we do would it be okay to drive it to them if they aren’t learned into the system?
Hi, I reused the existing injectors, so I didn't run into this problem. I've never replaced a Mercedes injector, so haven't run into this problem before. I suspect that you may know more about this than I do but here is a link where a few MB forum members are talking about the coding. forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/do-cdi-injectors-need-programming.32558/ Apparently, coding is to optimise the injector to run with the ECU, it doesn't mean that it won't run at all. On separate posts I have read about plenty of owners who have fitted injectors without coding them it, just monitored engine performance and fuel economy but its a personal choice.... Thanks, Phil
If I remember correctly that’s a piezo injector, n u use a slide hammer to pull it out??
Hi @jun2611 you are right to be cautious. If you can get the injector out without the slide hammer than that is always the best solution: make sure the engine is warm to soften the carbon, twist it from side to side and pull by hand. But, if it is big time stuck stuck, which can happen, then it's gotta come out to fix the problem. Usually the injector comes out intact, if it breaks, then you need to put a new one in but somehow, you need to get it out so you can clean up the seal seat and fit a new washer etc. Cheers, Phil
Some people say you should grease the injector before installation ..good idea?
Hi Geoff, Sorry for the slow reply! Yes, I think you should use a thin coat of grease on the outside of the injector body (not essential though!). At 17:50 in the video, I apply some copper grease BUT you have to be careful to keep the grease away from the seal. Ceramic grease is actually the best grease to use. Thanks, Phil
thank you for the video….my c320 is suffering from “black death” on one cilinder. In the video around 19:40 you tighten the bolt with 8 NM and the you tighten it again with two times 90 degrees…why? I mean wat is the use of starting off with 8 NM and followed by 2 times 90 degrees?
Thanks for explaining
Thank you for great video and links to the tools !
I just got a call yesterday from a customer with the 3.0 diesel in a Jeep Cherokee that's leaking " blow by " around the injectors so I suspect this is the problem .
Glad the video helped you! Yep, as you say, sounds like it might be leaking injector seals. Be interesting to hear how you get on if you have time to drop a message later... Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide The engine had 4 cylinders leaking pretty bad and two thinking about it . Got the injectors pulled and ports cleaned up with some make shift tools we threw together . Replaced all 6 copper washers and the Jeep is running great on the test drive . ruclips.net/video/lY46G7Cnivo/видео.html
Thanks again !
@@cranerigging3604 Thanks for sharing a video of the work that you are doing! Great to see the homemade tools that you put together and it looks like they worked really well! Keep up the good work!
@@ReviveMyRide Thank You ! It went better than expected .
Great video
I have a 2008 GL 320 with 135000 miles
No issues yet thank goodness
When you cut the seat, I assume that there was nothing preventing dirt from going into the engine ...
Hi, thanks for your comment! You are doing the right thing to keep an eye on it and to only intervene if you see a problem developing. It may never happen on your vehicle! You are correct that during the seat recutting process, there is a risk of cuttings falling into the cylinder. I minimised this by using a cutting compound both to improve the cutting quality but also to capture the swarfe. I didn't let the cutter blades get too full either and withdrew the tool regularly, cleaned away the cuttings and reapplied with new cutting compound several times. Cheers, Phil
Thank you for your reply
I will definitely keep an eye on things ..😊
Great video = dumb question but if I have a couple of leaky injectors, do I need to replace them or just replace the seals? My logic says I just need to replace the seals.
Don't worry, it's not a dumb question at all! You just have to replace the seals. You can check the bottom face of the injector where the seal sits to make sure it is ok but 99.9% of the time it is fine because it is made of stainless steel and is much, much, harder that the Aluminum head that it is seating in. Sometimes you need to recut the seat in the head though...
Very well done mate and hello from Eastern Canada. One injector just started to leak on my 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK. I hear a poofing noise and smell the gases inside the passenger area. I bought the 6-bolt and 6-seal kit from IDParts $24.95 US and the ceramic grease. I'm going to use one of the old bolts for the thread cleaning tool. They will all get replaced. The Rocal cutting compound is an excellent product we use it at my shop for thread cutting, a little bit goes a long way. A bit toxic so use with care. Thanks again.
Great to hear from a viewer from Canada! Sounds like you know what you are doing but glad you found the video useful! Good idea to chance all of the seals once one has failed and they are super easy to change if there is no carbon build up. Hope it all goes smoothly for you! Thanks, Phil
Very good contribution. Only with the "Nissan" sealing ring part number a small error. The correct number is Honda 16472RBDE00. Best regards from Germany
Hi, Thanks very much for raising this point, you are absolutely right regarding the part number! I will need to amend in in the video description above!
Are all the injectors the same for all cdi models of the w211 model, mined a e220 cdi?
A very hard , Black Tar-Like substance has appeared around the nearest injector, since 3 months ago , on my 2010 313cdi Mercedes Sprinter van 😳 .... it was " chuffing " initially, but that's stopped for some reason -
How urgent would you see it needs attention ?
Love your videos , very clear and informative 👍
Thank You.
Hi Don, chances are that you will be ok for a while (say a few months) if you keep an eye on it but that black tar is the problem. It is what makes the repair time consuming and costly. Also, the "seat" at the bottom of the injector bore becomes damaged with time and that is why you have to re-cut them. If you catch it early, often the seat is ok and only the copper washer needs to be changed. The sooner you catch it, the easier the work is. Probably it started "chuffing" but now the tar is muffling the sound and it has become a slow creep. Although I didn't show it in the video, I changed all of the copper washers (all six injectors) on my car. On the ones, where there was little or no tar, it was a doddle and I changed the washers very quickly. You have done well to spot it early, so that it will be a faster and easier repair. Hope this helps!
Don, thanks for your feedback, glad you liked the video. I am in the middle of a house move right now but have some footage for videos that I hope to upload in the New Year! Thanks!
great video. I'll try the job on my Jeep Gd Cherokee next weekend. It will help me a lot.
Hope it goes well for you! 👍
Hi i have just discovered this problem with 1 of my injectors on my cls320cdi and will be having a go at doing this repair now thanks for your video 🙂👍
Good luck with it and let me know if you have any questions along the way and I’ll help if I can! 👍
Hi again I done it all repaired now she runs great thanks been a while since I wanted to do them because had other issues like swirl flap motor fail and turbo actuator fail but all working and fixed thanks 👍
@@dandicey764 Great work! Even with instructions, it's still quite a technical job 👍 Glad to hear it is all sorted and you're back on the road. Thanks for the update. 🙂 Cheers, Phil
This video saved me a trip to the mechanic. Definitely worth buying the parts and injector puller kit.
Really glad the video helped you! Thanks for the comment! 🙂
Hi to my subscribers! I hope you like this video and find it interesting and informative. I hope this is my best video yet, please let me know if you agree! Constructive feedback and comments gratefully received. As always, if you have any questions, just ask and I will do my best to answer it!
Thanks a lot for the step by step AND especially listing the parts needed!
Just ordered the Nissan washers from UK since I figured the whole reason the seals failed initially because of the original Mercedes washers. No point of buying the same MB ones and redo this repair in the future...
Thanks for your comment! Yep, 3 years since the repair and still going strong on mine! Just to confirm, they are "Honda washers part number is 1647RBDE00), I'm sure you already know that, just mentioning it for others! I said Nissan in the video but in the description the make & part number is correct. Honda washers are a little softer, so will accommodate any imperfections in the sealing surfaces better, they are also just a little thicker, which is good if you have had to recut a seat. Hope the repair goes well for you! 👍
@@ReviveMyRide my bad ,wanted to say Honda washers (not Nissan).
Of course, it's a strange sensation when you pay 50$ for 6 washers and ship them across the world 😂 but again I think it's the core component in this repair.
@@ilusha55 No probs, I made the same mistake! Yep, I would always recommend the Honda injector seals!
Little update after completing this repair. Ironically the hardest part for me was disconnecting/reconnecting the fuel return (leak) line and actually keeping the plastic retainers in one piece. Unfortunately I broke couple retainers because of the carbon deposits around the plastic and because of how fragile they are once they ve been compromised by the "black death". Ordered a new leak line.
@@ilusha55 Thanks for the update, sounds like you are making good progress! Actually, those return line clips are quite tricky and yes, if the carbon has gotten around them then it can make them brittle too. So, new part on the way and then you should be good to go. Be warned, priming the fuel system can be time consuming too! If you have issues with it, check out the comments, there should be one pinned to the top with some instructions. 👍
Thanks for the video mate. Resealing the injectors on my van, grateful for some online help.
Glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for your comment and good luck with the work!
Can the copper seal be the only fault and the injector is fine??My c-class 320 cdi one of my injectors is making a chuffing noise so there's definetly an air leak.
No black carbon yet just light dampness from the diesel on the clamp.
Hi @robbocop33r12 Yes, the vast majority of the time, the problem is just the copper seal and from the symptoms you describe above, it definitely sounds like that is your problem. If you strike quickly before carbon builds up etc, you will do the job in half the time compared to if you have to do all of the labour intensive clean up! Also, you are unlikely to need a slide hammer type injector removal tool and probably not a seat cutting tool either. Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Got the injector leak early i think,only problem i had was releasing the fuel return black plastic clip!Got the injector out ok,there's a little ridge in the copper washer where it must have been leaking!
I've had the car a month or so and only fault is if you're doing say 60mph and really floor it,eml light instantly comes up,low fuel pressure p0089,which i suppose a leaking injector would do.
Today is the first time though the injector started chuffing noise,must have been slowly leaking worse and worse.
@@robbocop33r12 Good work with the injector seal! 👍 I never got the P0089 fault, with mine. Worth keeping an eye on it, I personally don't think the fault code was due to a leaking injector seal. There are a few things that can cause the P0089 fault, with the most likely one being a faulty fuel regulator. Fingers crossed it goes away and stays away though, sometimes they do! Cheers, Phil
When you have a leak is it possible to have a DTC? I have 2 fault codes, P2013 and P2031. I think injector 1 is leaking but it’s hard to tell if it’s the injector or the return line. Not to brag or anything but my car is in really good shape, Injector 1 might be leaking( or the return line). The foam was a bit dirty, the rail is super clean. When it’s running I can’t see any leak( I know it’s high pressure) I can hear a slight sound . The car has 114k miles. I wonder if I go ahead and replace the injector seals and return lines , will the check engine light go away?! Hmm
Please advise. Thank you and Happy New Year.
P.S I know it’s a 4 year old video and probably nobody will reply… I’m giving it a shot
Hi @marcelcovaci9922 Yes, although I haven't had it myself, I have heard from other owners that a fuel leak or a leaking fuel injector seal has triggered dtc's before. From your description, I think there is a good chance that one or more of your fuel injector seals are leaking. Sounds like you have caught it early and therefore, they will be much easier for you to change 👍 At that mileage, often the seals have started to fail already, so yours have done pretty good. If you DIY it, it's actually quite inexpensive to fix. Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRidethank you sir. I will order the parts and I have the tools, I’ll do it myself. Your video is very helpful.
Thank you for replying!
@@marcelcovaci9922 No probs at all, hope the work goes well for you! 👍
I have a 2011 e350 with a 265hp om642. I just checked the injectors after 250000km and found no leak😊.
Does the latest evolution has this black death problem solved?
You’re doing the right thing checking 👍 as far as I know, they never changed the design but for whatever reason, you do come across cars that never experience the issue. Cheers, Phil
Mate you mentioned Nissan bolt as alternate but in description you given Honda ? Which one is correct , also can we use any chemicals to clean bore if we don’t have tools like ego or carbon cleaner spray
Hi, it’s a Honda alternative copper seal, part number should be in description. Up to you regarding cleaning materials, Seafoam works good. If you use something else, Just be mindful that the head is aluminium and that some may get into the cylinder if you use copious amounts of liquid, so use it sparingly and ideally use something to clock the bottom of the injector bore. cheers, Phil
That little return line plastic clip you took off mines was a pig to take off,how hard do you have to push to put it back on?Mines doesn't seem to go on as easily as i thought,don't want to break it.
@bobbaxter952 It's been a while since I did the job, I know I found the collar very tight to undo, so I used a spanner underneath it so that I could get even pressure lifting the collar up. I think when I pushed the collar back down, I used the same technique. From memory, if the collar doesn't want to go down, then it is because the fitting isn't fully pushed down onto the injector. Try removing it and refitting it, when you refit it, keep firm pressure downwards on the fitting and push the collar down at the same time. The collars are very stiff in moving both up and down and I was worried about breaking them too but got away with it. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Is it necessary to replace the injector itself? Or cleaning and replacing the copper washer and bolt is enough?
Hi, as long as the injector doesn't look damaged and didn't get damaged during removal, especially on the sealing face where the copper seal sits, then you are fine to reuse it. In extreme black death cases where the injectors are almost welded in with the carbon, they often get badly damaged during removal, hence you will see a lot of info out there about replacing them. Cheers, Phil
Done that job Today. Just one injector for now, C350 so 5 more to go [ i sorta know they have a few leaks [cooler seals] . Years since i did owt like that. Did it with my 25yr old lad. Hes an engineer you know, he is ya know. knows everythin he does [Will see] . I cracked on i hadn't a clue, which i hadnt. Black death like ive never seen it , ya could chisel it out. My lad give up a few times. Went in for a warm . Apart from me breaking a clip or two. Had i watch your excellent video first. I wouldn't have broke them. We shall finish Tomorrow,see if he cottons on . Pffff, engineer my a..e....Lol. Great video, thanks so much for making and sharing fella. Go ta top at class lad.
Hi Brian, I think this is my favorite comment ever! Glad you liked the video and that it helped some. Good to see that you are getting stuck in! AND fantastic that you are working with your son on it. I work with my Dad sometimes, he's a good mechanic and I'm an engineer, so we have a similar dynamic going on! 😂
Very great video. Thank you. I got one injector from my G300cdi having the same problem. Is that related to the EDC light on? The car runs a bit lump.
Hi, my understanding is that normally the EDC light is due to a fuel supply issue: fuel leak, fuel pump issue, blocked fuel filter etc. Also, I imagine (but don't have first hand experience of this) a bad fuel injector that is allowing too much fuel to pass. However, I don't think that "Black Death / leaking fuel injector seal", which is when combustion gases escape from the cylinder would cause the EDC light. BUT, many people get the EDC light after working on black death because they then have fueling problems, maybe from a leaking joint on the fuel rail or the diesel system isn't fully primed after completion of the work. Hope that helps! Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thanks for the tips. Will try to look at that issue.
it would be useful if you could show us what piece you used for the seat cutter tool as in what mm
Do you need to depressurize the system before removing fuel lines to injectors?
That’s a good question! I never worried about this but the car had been off all night before I started working on it the following day. I think if you felt concerned, you could carefully crack loose the nuts on the metal pipes that lead to each of the injectors.
Happy to let you sort out my Mercedes V Class black death if you want to make another video! Seriously, could you do this work for me? What would you estimate the cost to fix it? Cheers Simon.
Hi Simon, I really appreciate you trusting me to work on your car but I'm sorry, I don't have the liability insurances etc to work on other peoples cars. Hopefully the video has given you a good idea of what is required to do the job but the cost will depend on how bad the problem is: If all six injectors need to be resealed. If they have been leaking for a while and the injectors are now stuck in the head etc. You can get a good idea of how bad the problem is by removing the engine cover and having a good look for carbon build up around the injectors. As with everything, try to find a garage that is recommended by others and get a few quotes. Hope this helps and good luck getting your car sorted!
thank you for your video, and i have a problem my 2008 E320 BlueTEC was working great until that day on 2019 & from that day the engine stopped working, no one know what is the problem, even Mercedes Service Center didn't know how to solve the problem.
so what do you suggest please?
I have Mercedes star C4 & C6 now just I got them to diagnose the car.
the engine crank, after diagnose i found that no pressure in the fuel rail which not allow the engine to start.
and you are very expert in Mercedes engine.
looking for your response please.
best regards
Hi, as I'm sure you know, the fuel rail gets supplied by the high pressure fuel pump that is on the front of the engine. But the high pressure pump itself is fed from a fuel pump near the tank. Also, a blocked fuel filter can starve the pump and cause this problem. I haven't tackled this problem myself but: engine cranks but won't start (due to low fuel pressure) is fairly common problem and you will find a lot of videos on it and they will take you through the process. Here is one example of a video on it, you may be able to find one on your specific model too: ruclips.net/video/RAYp8l2Q250/видео.html Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thank you so much for your response & support, yes I have changed both of them and the fuel filter besides the crank sensor, nothing.
Now I am going to the workshop to make diagnostics, I am thinking to make a video on this problem.
@@mrnourbaha HI, I'm not sure why I didn't think of this earlier but if you have fixed the original problem (Let's say it was the filter or sensor), then these engines and fuel rails are very sensitive to air locks / fuel priming. You will see in the comments on the Black Death video, lots of people having problems priming the car to start it after changing the fuel filter or a fuel injector. It might be worth you trying this: Ensure the fuel tank has enough fuel in it (put extra from a portable container if required), jack up the rear of the car, so that it is higher than the engine, crank to start the car a few times over about a 10mins time period, allow the starter motor to cool down / charge the battery, then try again. You my have to do this quite a few times but it will prime the fuel rail and may cure your low fuel pressure problem if it is just an airlock. Two things to be careful of: 1) If supporting the rear of the car using a jack only, be careful of it falling, ideally support it with axle stands too 2) Be very careful if you loosen any joints near the fuel injector or high pressure fuel pump, high pressure fuel leaks can be dangerous, don't put your hands near this areas when cranking / running the engine. If you do a video, drop me a link, would be interested to watch it! Thanks, Phil
To answer your point about why this is common: this happens to all Direct injection diesels regardless of manufacturer, made since approx 2006. To comply with euro emissions legislation, car manufacturers introduced stricter EGR and DPF measures but, crucially didn't fit oil catch cans. This meant that there was lots of blowback carbon and oil floating around the intake and fuel systems. A decent oil catch can will prevent this from happening again - I've fitted on on my BMW (sorry lol) 2008 5 series and have exactly the "Black Death" that you refer to - loud ticking and, on inspection really hard carbon deposits around the top of 3/4 injectors. I have a video on the catch can - have done another better one which is going up next week. Hth
Hi Jonathan, thank you for sharing your experience but I just have a question based on what you wrote. My understanding is that the Mercedes diesel is susceptible to the injector seal (copper at the bottom of the injector) deteriorating and that this is due to a suboptimal clamping system used on these engines. Are you saying that oily emissions recirculating through the intake (EGR system) contributes to premature failure of the seal? Or are you talking about a different phenomenon? Thanks!
New Subscriber Im re-seating the bosch injectors on my 2.2 mercedes vito after dealing with the black death, my question is,,, What size reaming tool should I use to recut the injector seat please ? Thanks in advance
Hi, I used a 17mm flat reamer to recut the seat on my car. I tried to look up the fuel injector for your Vito, so I could see if it is the same as the one for my car but no luck, as the site I use to check part numbers was playing up. However, if you measure the external diameter at the bottom of your injector (where the copper seal sits), this should tell you what size reamer you need. The reamer kit I used is in the description and there were a few different sized ones in the kit. Hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more questions and good luck with the work!
Thanks the video, I hv Mercedes printer 315 CDI 2008 model done 390.000Km Have an issue with smokie and fuel smell. smoke come randomly sometime big smoke sometime just a litle bit even sometime no smoke at all. before that I did replace cooper washer only 1 injector, also 3 months ago done DPF cleaning. need your advise. Thanks heaps.
Hi, happy to help if I can! Just to be clear, is the smoke and fuel smell coming from the engine bay and you smell it coming through the air vents into the car? If so, as you say, this may be linked to a fuel injector seal problem. If the smoke is coming out of the exhaust, that is a different issue entirely! Usually, if an injector seal is leaking, then you can see which one it is by inspecting and looking for carbon deposits building up around the fuel injector itself. If you have had 1 seal replaced, then the chances are the others aren't far behind. I recently did another follow up video that shows in much more detail exactly how to inspect and what to look for. I think the first step is for you to do the inspection. The video is here, hope it helps! ruclips.net/video/7weS1vQ_1OI/видео.html Thanks, Phil
I have replaced the seal 3 times now on the same injector in the last year... any advice as to why this problem keeps occurring? Great video!
Hi, I have a few ideas: 1) It is possible that there is dirt down the hole that the clamp / retaining bolt screws down into, this would stop it from tightening down as far as it needs to and therefore not compress the copper washer / seal enough. (don't be tempted to over tighten the bolt as there is a risk of punching through the bottom of the screw hole). 2) Did you use a Nissan copper seal (part number in vid description)? These are a little thicker and a little softer, so provide a better seal. 3) Is it possible that the seat at the bottom of the injector hole is dirty or scratched? If so, you can polish it up with some fine emery cloth on a stick. Or that the sealing face on the bottom of the injector is dirty or scratched? 4) Sorry to ask this one but did you replace the clamping bolt with a new one when you did the job? If not, it is possible that the old one is stretched and is now too long, not compressing the seal etc. Hope this helps!
How does the seal cutting tool work? I mean does it take off only the dirty or does it groove the injector seating as well? Would a dremel spinning wire brush work as well? Also did you remove the protective washer that you put earlier to prevent dirt falling into the cylinder while cleaning the injector washer seat? Thanks.
Hi, the cutting tool can be used just to clean up the seat a little bit or to recut it by taking more material off. However, if the seat just needs to be cleaned up a little, then I recommend using a piece of fine emery cloth (fastened in place by some double sided tape) to the bottom of a length of wood (similar to a broom handle but smaller diameter). Seat cutting should only be done if the seat is badly damaged and always done with caution taking off the minimum amount of material to make the seat good again. If the seat is cut too deep, there is a risk that the new seal won't be compressed enough to seal properly. I would be careful of a Dremel wire brush, you are correct that the washer that is sealing the seat needs to be removed to clean up the seat or to recut it, therefore, there is a risk of wire from the brush getting into the cylinder. Hope this helps!
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer.
Very thorough and no shortcuts taken. Well done and thankyou!
Thanks for your comment Brian! Glad you liked the video 👍
Great job, I have looked at so many just to see one part as how to remove and you showed a lot that i needed to know, Cheers
Thanks for your comment, really pleased that the video has helped you! :-)
I know there is very little difference but my understanding is 7 mm Then 90 + 90, not 8 mm 90+90. I also have read that the Honda copper seals are good to use too.
I enjoyed the video. I have a 2010 blutec that starts fine when cold. After 10 min of driving it throws a low rail pressure code and starves for fuel and dies. If I then let the fuel pump re pressure up then it starts again. But, soon as I give it gas it dies. I have replaced the fuel filter, tank pump, and high pressure pump. No difference. Could an injector leak enough when warm to cause these symptoms? I do not have any of the carbon build up on my injectors. Car has 75k miles. Thanks for any suggestions.
Hi, sorry for the slow reply. I haven't come across this problem before personally, so I did some reading. You have already tackled the things most likely to be causing the problem. You are right that when the leaking injector "black death" gets bad enough, then the car will struggle to start / run but I really don't think this is your problem as you would definitely see the carbon build up in the engine bay and even start getting some fumes in the cabin. There is another kind of injector fault where fuel leaks into the cylinders but this would cause rough running and excessive smoke. I know you have replaced the in tank pump and filter but the only things I can suggest are testing the pressure that you are getting from it by introducing a pressure gauge after the in tank pump near the filter. If you haven't already seen it, check out this thread where they talk about min fuel pressure before and after the filter near the tank www.benzworld.org/threads/p0087-fuel-rail-system-pressure-too-low.2446665/ The other suggestion is that there is some talk about a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail failing / becoming faulty. Hope this helps!
Get your injectors bench tested they might have internal leak
Thanks a lot for the vid! Helped me out big time, will have to do this to my car. I have just one injector leaking slightly, and not nearly as bad as in this example, but will probably change all the seals while i am at it as preventive maintenance. Any tips on cleaning the injectors themeselves? Thanks again
Hi, glad the video has helped you and thanks for your comment! :-) There are videos on RUclips, where people have shown how to build a DIY fuel injector cleaning rig and run cleaning solutions through their injectors. This can help the injectors go back to supplying fuel in a mist, rather than as a stream and give better combustion. Be careful though, running the cleanser through your injectors can cause a flammable atmosphere, so you need to be aware and takes steps to prevent a fire. I haven't tried this myself but it is one of the things I am interested in doing on my Merc!
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks for the reply :) Have a nice day
Great documentation. I suppose the 220cdi engine will have to be done in a similar fashion. I’m having exhaust fumes in the cabin at standstill and have noticed the pfft sound at idle.
Hi Ole, yes, from your description, it definitely sounds like a leaking injector seal. I just checked the diagrams and some of the part numbers are slightly different between the two engines but the clamp and seal arrangement looks very similar. Please be aware that the clamp and securing screw for your engine is a different part number but the seal itself is the same. I recently carried out a 2yr inspection following the repair I did on my car, with good results :-) It's not that difficult to do if you take your time and take a methodical approach. Inspection video if you want to check it out (but it is on the v6 engine again) ruclips.net/video/7weS1vQ_1OI/видео.html Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide I did the old “mechanic’s stethoscope” aka a tube in the ear test yesterday and clearly the #1 cylinder from the right front wheel is making the noise, the other three are quiet. I’ll order parts and a sliding hammer, just in case today. There’s no black stuff to be seen yet, we may have caught it very early. Thanks for your videos and reply. I’ll post my findings and results.
I’ll send you videos and pictures if you find them useful for your channel.
PS: i did. watch your follow-up video. Great results on that one ☝️
@@olewurtz7625 Hi, yes, great idea, I haven't used the mechanics stethoscope method for a while but it can be very effective! Yes, if you don't mind and have the time, it would be great to see your results. Hope the work goes well, sounds like you know what you are doing! 👍
@@ReviveMyRide I finally manned up and went for the offending injector (seal).
I should have bought a seal cutting tool in advance. Buy from Amazon and you can return, if unused. But I didn’t, so no I have to see if a local tool supply shop has one tomorrow, because my wife needs the car running by Tuesday and Amazon’s earliest delivery is Wednesday.
I’ve taken some pictures, where can I send them to you ?
PS: I’m pretty sure I need to refinish the seat. I have matching traces of blow through on the seat and the washer. Don’t you think so ?
@Ole Wurtz Yeah, it can be difficult if you need the car running and this type of work can be time consuming! If you have inspected the seat (and cleaned it with a bit of emery cloth) and you can see tracks or damage in the seat, then you are right, you will need to recut it. But when you do, take your time and cut out the minimum of material required to get the seat clean again. I'm happy to look at pictures, but sometimes it is difficult to tell from a photo. Thanks, Phil
Great Help . I have a Mercedes van , but the principle is the same !
Don Walker thanks for your comment and glad you found the video useful! :-)
Someone failed to turn the cutter on the seating face of the injector. Have you had to re-do this yet due to leaks there?
Hi, thanks for your question! I cleaned up the sealing face of the injector with some fine emery cloth prior to refitting, just to make it key in to the new copper washer better. The sealing faces on the injectors are steel, so it is very rare for them to be damaged, as opposed to the head which is much softer, with it being aluminium and hence, they sometimes need to be recut. No, the injectors are all still sealed perfectly, almost 2 years and 30k miles since this video was done. Hope this helps! Thanks, RMR
Thanks for your time buddy, got mine to do ASAP and this will help me lots...
Thanks for your message, good luck with sorting out the problem with yours. If you have any questions as you work through it, let me know and I will help if I can!
💥I JUST Bought a STOLEN Recovered Salvage Project Car! - MERCEDES E CLASS Convertible. Check out the VID Series Here 👉 ruclips.net/video/pfP6n5jcfAI/видео.html
Hello,nice video there,what seat cutter should i use on my Mercedes c200 CDI engine? Year of manufacture is 2010
@@lewismugambi8714 Hi, from the info you provided, I am assuming your car is a C class W204. I just had a look and your car still uses the same fuel injector as mine does (mine is a CLK C209 320 cdi 2007). So, you should be able to use the same seat cutter as I did. The one you need is the 17mm flat reamer. They often sell them in kits (see this link for info - amzn.to/338zKeb ), if you read the info on Amazon, the one you need is described as "17mm x 17mm Flat Reamer for Delphi/Bosch injectors (BMW/PSA/Renault/Ford)" but you may be able to just pick up the one you need separately if you shop around. Hope this helps! Thanks, Phil
Great video!!! I went to the link for the copper seal you say is from Nissan, but it links to a Honda seal. Are they the same?
Hi @igorocchipinti1671 Really sorry, I made an error in the video. It is definitely a Honda seal and the part number in the description is correct. BTW, mine are still going strong since I made this video several years ago... Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRidethanks a lot!
@@ReviveMyRideHi Phil, I would like to ask you if you recommend opening the injectors to clean them as I have seen done in many tutorials or is this something that should be done exclusively by professionals? Thanks in advance, Igor
@@igorocchipinti1671 hi, I’ve seen some of those videos too! In principle, it’s a really good idea because in older diesel cars, the injectors stop giving a “mist” pattern and you get a “jet” of fuel instead = less fuel economy and the car smokes under heavy acceleration. So, depending on your level of diy skill, I would say yes, you could build a rig to push cleaning fluid through the injectors and it would be a big improvement BUT the biggest risk is creating a flammable atmosphere due to the product that is coming through the injectors. If in any doubt best to use a professional cleaning company. Hope this helps a bit, it is something I would attempt but I would do a lot of research first. Thanks, Phil
Will there be a DTC (trouble code) telling you an injector is bad, or is it simply waiting for the symptoms to occur?
Hi, no, I'm pretty sure that the engine / ECU doesn't know there is a problem unless it gets very severe and starts to cause running / starting issues. Not sure what the fault code would be at this point. As you say, it really is a case of waiting for the symptoms. You can keep an eye on it by periodically removing the engine cover and having a look for carbon deposits near the fuel injectors. Some people just decide to replace the injector seals at 80 - 100k miles. Personally, I would do the periodic check, the engine cover pops off really easily and you would probably only need to check a couple of times a year. Hope that helps!
Thank you for this video - obviously a great mechanic!
Thank you! tbh I'm always learning too! Appreciate your comment!
Nice video. Helped me a lot with my 2006 ml320.
thanks for your message! Great the the video has helped you! 👍😀
What size was the torx socket for removing the injector clamp?
Hi @Josue-rd5gt I think from one of your other comments, you got this sorted and bought a set of torx bits. I'm not 100%, I "think" it was T30, let me know if I was right! 😂
Do you have a cross reference for the Nissan copper washers?
Hi, Sorry, I said the wrong name in the video, it is actually a Honda fuel injector seal. Here's the info: Honda diesel fuel injector seals (copper washers) part number is 1647RBDE00
UK link: tidd.ly/2J2kDMD
USA: Not sure where to buy these in USA but you could try the Honda main car dealers
If you prefer to use the MB fuel injector seal, the part number is: A6110170060
Thanks,
Phil
Thank for this gem! I'm considering replacing my OM 606 . This helps a lot in considering replacing it.
Thanks for your kind comment! Glad the video helped you 🙂
Great video! Is there a reason why I should not anneal the copper washer prior to installing?
That’s a really good question Yuri! If I’m honest, I don’t know for sure but as I have an engineering background I can speculate: it could be, the softer the better in terms of getting a seal, in which case annealing is a great ideas (I do this all of the time to reuse oil pan plug washers if I have forgotten to buy one!). However, it could be that the washer manufacturers have considered this and have rolled and stamped the copper to achieve a certain hardness. In which case, annealing would be counter productive. Personally, I wouldn’t anneal the washers because of this unknown. But if you try it, just keep inspecting regularly and drop me a message about it! Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Just to add, if you decide to DIY the repair, I have a video showing how to do it step by step, you’ll find it on my channel! 👍
I saved a couple hundred bucks not going to a mechanic. I now own some new tools. And I gained a skill. Productive weekend.
Sounds like you did some good work there! Thanks for the feedback! :-)
Great Video and Very motivational.
My car was parked just because of this since last year ( i really loved this diesel)
After i watched your video i decided to fix everything and i did as i learned from you that take time and be patience with everything ordered all the parts and Tools needed or you recommended.
I just finished everything and i made sure everything is up to its standard as you explained.
Now car is not starting i try to start is couple of times to take the air out of fuel system.
Car doesn't start now , before it was running and battery is good as well.
Any recommendations??
What i look into next ?
Hi, it sounds like you did everything right. Sometimes the diesel can take a like of priming, and especially if you have changed all of the seals and therefore, all of the injectors have been disconnected. The best thing you can do is to charge up your battery again and try again by turning the key to run the fuel pump for a few seconds and then then turn it back off again. Do this at least half a dozen times and then try again cranking to start. Here is a link that will give you extra info about this problem, it is very common: forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/bleeding-fuel-after-pipe-pump-repair-w210-e320-cdi.128019/ Just one extra thing to add. If you follow the advice in the link to loosen a connection near the injector a little and to crank the car (to bleed the fuel through), don't go anywhere near the engine with your hands etc while you are cranking / running the engine , the fuel is under very high pressure and a very fine spray of fuel can easily cut your skin. Hope this helps, please let me know how you get on! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thank You so much for your prompt response, i can't thank you much after reading the thread you shared i find out the possible cause it was the air in the system in my case my car was in the my garage due to a little incline it was nose up so i jacked it up from behind, fuel tank was around a quarter tank i put more fuel to half the tank and battery was all drained due to cranking again and again and so put the battery on a charger and left the car for a day.
Next day came back did the self air out sequence few times with and then very first times when i cranked it started.
Woow great
I can't thank you much with your help i was able to revive my ride and now i have confidence in it.
In this process i also put new fuel filter, new air intake seals and also new air filters .
@@tayyabir5873 Great work Reviving Your Ride! Glad you got it sorted out and will now be back on the road! Thanks for your comment above, it's really great to hear back from you and to know you got it fixed. 😁
Thanks a lot !! Very well explained, if all tutorials were like yours it would save humanity.
I just have a problem with the first connectors you remove, the one you remove at 3:34 I can not connect it back all the way in, and the one at 3:42 I just can't get it out. I see the little gray thing on the left of it, I pull it, but no matter how hard I pull it won't come out. Am I doing it wrong? Or is it seized (230000km car, never been removed)
Thanks!! :)
Hi defalt, thanks for your comment, glad you liked the video! To be honest, the electrical connectors can be difficult and take some time to remove, especially if they haven't been off for a while. The first one at 3:34 is the mass air flow meter. For this one, you have to squeeze the sides of the clip (nearest to where the wires are) pretty hard. There is a plastic tab / lever on both sides and both of these need to disengage for the clip to come off. Sometimes it helps to push the connector a little further on while squeezing before trying to pull it off. I sometimes use some wide opening pliers to squeeze the connector tabs but you have to be careful not to damage them! For the second one, at 3:42, you also need to squeeze this hard but the focus is on the "grey piece" which you squeeze inwards towards the wires. One other idea I have got is a little bit of silicone spray may help. I hope this helps, it is actually quite hard to describe how it is done!
very good ,very clear instructions ,thank you.
Thanks for your comment & glad you liked the video! :-)