Thanks for another great video, Stephen. This guy makes the best instructional videos of this type on RUclips. I would like to thank him for the time and patience he has extended to me.
Who is ready to check their diesel fuel injectors for good operation, and then give them a nozzle clean? This is the new version of this video, and I’ve included some great extras that were suggested to me by you guys! If you do the leak-off test, and you find that the amount of diesel in each vial is vastly different, or if the amounts are a lot different to what you see in the video - then you should remove your injector/s and send them off for a professional rebuild using genuine Bosch parts, and a re-calibration (you will need to re-code your injectors after). If the leak-off test shows that there are no issues with the injector's high pressure ball valve then you may want to go on to clean the injector nozzles, to make sure that no blocked holes are causing a bad spray pattern. Your engine will continue to run reasonably ok with one, two, or even three blocked nozzle holes, but the resulting bad spray pattern will eventually cause wear on your engine's cylinder walls. It is the slow death of your engine. By doing this service every 100,000 miles, you can help your engine last much longer! Here is a breakdown of the chapters in this video: 0:38 Corrected Subtitles are now available for all Steven B Tuner videos 1:02 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing - Vehicle Preparation 1:47 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Get to the Injectors 2:31 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Remove Injector Connections 3:55 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Connect Test Equipment 5:41 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Run Leak Off Test 7:13 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Are the Injectors Good? 7:46 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Removal Tips 10:02 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Disassemble Injectors 13:36 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Inspect Dirty Nozzle 14:09 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Ultrasonic Clean the Nozzles 15:06 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Inspect the Ultrasonic Cleaned Nozzle 15:44 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Pressure Washer Clean the Nozzles 16:34 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Re-assemble the Injectors 19:01 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Injector Installation Tips, Reaming and Cleaning 20:56 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Febi Bilstein Special High Temperature Ceramic Grease
Hello again Steven . Picture says 1000 words. During this video @ 10:20 , with your left hand you touch the injector, this is the part of the injector I mean when I say sleeve/shaft with the O-Ring on it too, this shaft can slide up and down(no side to side movement) 10-15mm on 2 of my injectors but other 2 soild. Any help appreciated thanks from Leon.
@@ay7pre Hi, the nozzle cleaning has just brought the injectors back to how they were when they were calibrated, so there is no coding as long as you put them back in the same cylinder, and keep the parts for each injector together throughout the whole process.
Thank you for your help in making this video. I removed my 4 bosh injectors from my opel corsa diesel and cleaned the nozzles using an ultrasonic cleaner like you did. The car is running much smoother now. The acceleration is very smooth. My car has 290k km. Thanks again
@@StevenBTuner Hello, i have a n57 engine with 105k miles, it runs perfect no rough idling, no smoke nothing runs like new, but there is only one and only one issue, when i take the engine cover off i can see wetness around 3 out of my 6 injectors. Does this indicate bad seal o rings(copper ones)or is it something more serious ? Thank you in advance your answer would help me a lot !!
@@Flatwaterkayakpm yes, you have a small leak around the injectors. You will need to remove them and replace all copper washers. First I would recommend cleaning the area and observe it for a week just to make sure that it is not a spillage of oil before you start.
Hi, your videos are well presented and easy to follow and understand. They encourage DIY mechanics like me to have a go at doing our own refurbs and repairs, etc, and also save ££££’s. Thank you!
good stuff just pulled mine i have about 6mm of carbon on the tips.. might be why it was smoking (12v cummins ppump mechanical injectors) , you must moonlight as a radio DJ with that voice hahah
10:45... I always thought that these had to be as tight as could as the tension of the spring inside was regulated by the thickness of the shims... you know the shims, usely 2 per while calibrating the tension of the spring. 20:34 I insert a sharp wooden dowel in there to block the chamber hole and blow compressed air around to get the carbon out holding the dowel. and I glue th washer with some grease to keep it from falling down.
Hi, Steven! The video was really good! I would like to add some tips from my own experience: 1. After the disassemble of the fuel injectors, I recommend to put them vertically in a jar with concentrated drain cleaner and leave them in the jar for 2 hours but be careful, the level of the drain cleaner needs to not exceed the middle of the injectors (this will help with the opening of the thread and it helps clean the deposit much easier). 2. As the solution that I use in the ultrasonic cleaner device is concentrated drain cleaner and for the rinsing I use isopropyl alcohol. 3. After you assemble the components of the injector, before you thread it, put a small amount of thread blocker (this is going to help with possible future loses of fuel). Keep going with the awesome videos!
Hi Lenard, what do you mean "drain cleaner"? Any specific type of it? (Hungarian is OK as well). Thread blocker you mean a thread locker, like Loctite? What exact type do you use? Thank you your answer in advance!
@@mihalym.6876 Hi Mihaly , drain cleaner = pure liquid sodium or potasium hidroxide . (lugos oldat amit a Lidl lehet kapni,amit a viz lefolyok kidugaszolasahoz hasznalnak.Ami fontos hogy fojekony oldat legyen. Loctite is ok. (A menetett jo egy csep Loctite-al leblokolni, de ha lehet elote zsiroldo szerel letakaritani,peldaul fekrendszer takarito spray-el )
An easy test you can do if u experience hard starting is to just simply remove the connectors and return line from the injectors and crank the engine, there should be NO leakage coming from the injectors, any diesel leaking from an injector doing this test is a bad injector and needs to be checked. Great vid :D Edit: this test is obviously only viable if the high pressure pump and rail is generating pressure to the injectors
As many others have already mentioned these are great videos, well done. Cleaned my N47 BMW DPF after viewing a few of your videos and great results. I did used a pressure washer as well which appears to get some extra ash out. Checked DPF with camera after and no damage. Now very low back pressure and performance restored to like new. Many thanks.
I worked in a diesel injector factory for 11 years building and testing injectors. 100s of thousands of them. The moment you disassemble them you throw all the calibration off. If you are lucky the opening ( operating ) pressure may just be off by 1 or 2 bar. If you are not lucky it can be a lot more. Maybe 10 bar or more.
Hi, great information to know! Is it top end or bottom end disassembly that effects the calibration more? I was always led to believe that it was the top end rebuilds that cause the most calibration issues, so it would be great to hear from someone with first-hand experience.
If you can do something for the n54 injectors you would have a video like no other. cleaning them and recharging the piezo crystal in car.. only index 11 or 12.. Just an idea lol
Nice video, done this few times... Exact, good, and right procedure. Just one very very important note: Never ever ever never under no circumstance EVER REUSE!!!!!!! copper washer!!!!! Always buy NEW and ORiGINAL washers before this procedure. And don't forget to clean injector hole like shown in this video. Especially bottom part where your Cooper washer sits... Good joob man, liked, subscribed. I am glad you got rid of, mouth sounds from your earlier videos... Good job jebeno mljackanje :)
Oh no! I haven't seen one - could be worth buying an old injector on ebay or personally visiting a Bosch service center to see if they might take pity on you and have some parts knocking around in the back of a drawer...
Hello! Wonderful to find a good video for such a specific car. My N47 has 225,000 miles or 362k Kilometer. I’m getting ready to do a lot of major servicing including this. However I’m lacking a good set of tools for proper cleaning. I see that a completely new set of injectors OEM is fairly expensive but actually cheaper and easier to get than all of the equipment needed to properly clean. Would it be worth it to go ahead and replace all the injectors?
Hi, thanks for watching! There is absolutely nothing wrong with putting in new injectors, especially if you are planning to keep the car for a long time. Your biggest challenge might be getting them to come out - so definitely get the engine really warm before you start the job.
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad you appreciate the detail :-) There is no need to re-code as this job takes the injectors back to match the calibration that is written on them. If the top end is disassembled then they will need to be re-calibrated. Clearing any fuel trim adaptations isn't a bad idea though.
Great video! If the leak off test shows excessive amounts coming out of 1 or more injectors can the top of the injector be stuck open? I ask because after running bad fuel with sediment I only get good fuel pressure when I cap off the injectors. Thanks
Great video although I have a question. You started off with a leak test and then serviced the injectors. What happens if an injector failed you initial testing - would your servicing demonstrated here have rectified the failed injector and put back into service?
Hi, if the leak off test fails then the top end will need new parts and the calibration values will have to be re-created. I should mention that having perfect calibration values is not always essential for good running and that there are many folk who have re-built the top end themselves. Be aware that it is a risk, and make your choice :-)
Hi, you can get top end parts too. It will change the calibration, but many folk have done it and found that the engine ECU will compensate enough to provide smooth running.
The copper washer should be heated up with a propane torch and inserted into the water. The washer softened in this way and will lie nicely and seal the injector.
Pinch off leak line rather than running the line open into a containsr. The fuel is coming from the pressure relief valve and with the leak line pinched the PRV spill-off will find its proper way back to the fuel tank.
If you have one or more injectors with a high volume would that be enough to cause the overflow line to fail ? I've experienced this recently on a BMW 335d with the M57 engine.
Are you having a low pressure issue? I'm having that issue and injector 4 goes over the acceptable range and wondering if that could be the cause of the problem
I have this issue, I seem to have some sort of pressure in the return/overflow line as it seperates and leaks the excess diesel into the engine bay. At first the return hose would pop off at a t-piece, further away from the rail. After tightening that, its now popping off above the the injectors. What did you guys find was the cause. I have the N57D
Thank you so much, this video is great. I'm thinking of cleaning my BMW injectors myself thanks to you. I have one question tho, my 330D E46 has around 335 000 km and I know one of my injector is not great. I got the DDE warning sometime and I fix it with injector cleaning stuff poured in the fuel tank and it's working for some time but I feel that my engine isn't happy at low RPM. So my question is, do I have to test out the injectors if I plan to clean them all ? I don't have a lot of money otherwise I would buy new ones but I figured that the all cleaning kit (Injector removal kit + the ultrasonic cleaner) would be way way cheaper (around 120 euro). Do you think it's a good idea ? Thanks
Hi, thanks for watching! The leak-off test is mainly to test the top end of the injectors and the ultrasonic/pressure cleaning is to sort out the nozzle end. If you have over 100,000kms on the car then there is a good chance that there are one or more nozzle holes that are blocked and if your injectors have never been removed in 335,000kms then there are going to be lots of blocked holes. My thinking is that if there is a failure in the leak off test then there is no point doing any cleaning as the best course of action is to send the whole lot off for professional rebuilding or replacement. A small ultrasonic cleaner is great, as injector parts aren't very big.
Hi Steven, I don’t have the option to warm up the engine I cannot start the engine because of a possible timing chain noise which I am concerned about.
Hi, you will find out pretty quickly if they are stuck in tight due to carbon or corrosion, and a lot of cars don't have problems with either - so you could be fine.
One thing to say about cleaning injector holes in the head. DO NOT REAM if not necessary! PLUG THE HOLE while cleaning! So there is injector plugs ( a bronze/copper tip shaped like the injector tip with a threaded hole in the back). You push the plug deep in the hole and un-thread the rod leaving the plug in the injector hole. Then there is a fine brass wirebrush with a sleeve. Yo insert the wirebrush with the sleeve covering the bristles, then retract part of the sleeve to expose the bristles inside the injector hole on the flat surface and give it some twists to wirebrush the hole. Then with compressed air an a long tip you blow out all the gunk from the wirebrushing (the brass plug will still be seated and prevent any gunk entering the engine). Remove the plug by threading the rod on the back of the plug and pull the plug. Repeat for every cylinder. Reaming is needed if after wirebrushing there is pitting and score marks that could not be sealed by the copper washer. Reaming is quite bad, but as last resort may work. By reaming the injector will seat deeper in the chamber and can create a LOT of side effects. One of the worst side effects will be cracking the piston head because the diesel spray may wet the top of the piston causing a sharp cooling before ignition because the injector tip is much closer to the piston. I have a whole set of iveco truck pistons all of them have 5 cracks in the omega chamber of the piston aligning with the 5hole injection pattern. That truck head was reamed several times and the injector was sitting 3mm deeper than intended. those 3mm made this cracking possible. And by cracking i mean deep cracks and in several pistons even blown chunks of the omega chamber with huge loss of pressure under the piston creating major problems in the oiling system and PCV leading to runaway diesel engines and may blow up the turbo from improper oiling with contaminated oil and aerated oil from the huge crank pressure. All of this for 3mm of ream in a 120mm bore engine for a truck. In a passenger car tolerances are much higher (for the much smaller bore and stroke) and 1mm might create similar problems. So do not ream! and if you do, compensate with a thicker copper washer to sit the injector tip at precisely the right height!
@@StevenBTuner you're welcome. Congrats on all the content you do. I will actually clean my dpf based on your content. I actually am very close to the field of automotive beeing phd automotive enginer working at a prestigious automotive engineering university with many colaboration including Bosch diesel injection training center, zf, castrol and plenty others. I say this not to boast myself, but just to have a bit of perspective about my background as it do matters sometimes where the information is coming from.
Mine is a VW Polo 1.2 tdi i bought brand new back in December 2011, clocked 1lac 24 thousand kms , with all the services from authorised VW workshop. Am I also required to clean the injectors? As the company engineers donot recommend to open the injectors unless it is giving any trouble
Hi, there are a few of factors to consider with this kind of maintenance. Is it only necessary if you think you will have the car long enough to get the benefit of the extra work. If you want your engine and injectors to make it to 500k kms plus then keeping the nozzles clean is necessary, but if you expect to sell the car at 200k kms or send it to the scrapyard at 300k kms then there is no reason to do the extra work.
Well spotted! I had a close look at that, and it turned out to be small insect - it must have crawled into the tube before I connected it up. They are annoying little things that get everywhere for a week or so every year, and I have another one that has made its way into my computer monitor between the outside surface and the LCD, so it looks like a dead pixel.
yes thank you. seems though allot of the products are out of stock. Do you have a link for your video on injector coding ? did you have to code after the cleaning ?
Hi, cleaning the injectors should bring them back closer to their original calibration values. It seems it is time for me to go through and correct those Amazon links!
Hi, there is a definite downside to using any kind of normal grease/Vaseline etc, and that is that you then have to get rid of all of it out of there too. I find that vacuuming it up is a lot quicker than fiddling around with more paper towel and solvents trying to get the grease out, and there will always be something that falls in to the hole regardless. Any leftover normal grease or Vaseline will carbonize with the extreme heat, and you risk permanently sticking your injector in place.
@@StevenBTuner but you don't really want carbon going down the bore either and you could even use the white heat resident paste instead of Vaseline if your that worried.
Hi Steven. Very nice and detail video. Did you tested leak off test after injector tips cleaning? Did injector with bigger back flow gets normal value now? And one extra question. If i have correction -2.5, 0.4, 2.5, and 0.6. What injector is bad 3rd or 1st?
Hi, if the car is running smoothly with those values then none of them are all that bad. They are only really 'bad' when they can't be corrected for any more.
Steven, you're amazing. I have a 2010 BMW 316d LCI and at least 1 injector is dodgy, putting the yellow "drive slowly" light on. I saw white smoke, smelling of diesel, from the exhaust. I was frightened of the injectors at £1200 ($1600) the set. Not any more, thanks to you. I owe you, mate. Brilliant.
@@StevenBTuner I've just removed 1 injector (twice). I bought a used replacement for £25 and I'll see how it goes now. I had to remove the replacement because I was too tight to buy a new copper washer. Once annealed, it's OK now. You've been a massive help to me and I'm grateful.
@@StevenBTuner Update later. I did still have a problem. Fuel starvation on high loads. Bought a leak-off kit and a second hand injector. The test showed the "new" injector (cheap ebay buy) hardly leaked back whereas the old ones filled 30ml in a minute at tickover. Off to ebay for more. So much fuel leaking back that the high pressure rail pressure was low. My old injectors did 137,000 miles / 220,000km. Very grateful for your help.
Hi, got a question.. If i want to replace old nozzles to new ones.. then do i have to do chip tune or (recalibration) again? engine m57d25 (256d1).. I dont exactly know if fuel conumption is caused by nozzles so much but.. when i drive 90km/h i got like 8l/100km but when i drive 120km/h i have 5l fuel consumption Thank you.
Hi, the new nozzles on their own should help bring the injector back toward its original calibration value - although of course there is likely to be a bit of wear on the other components too. Plenty of folk change all sorts of parts in the injector without an issue as the car will compensate for small changes - although there is never going to be a guarantee!
Hi. I also drive the M57 engine with the BOSCH solenoid valve injectors. In the event that I decide to "only" clean the injectors using the ultrasonic bat, would it still be necessary to enter the resulting changed adaptation values into the control unit? Because I don't have a measurement report. It's clear when it comes to refurbished ones. There is the measurement report with current values. Or do the cleaned injectors learn themselves? Grüsse aus Deutschland
Hi! I did your dpf trick with succes some time ago, and now I also did the injector cleaning thing. The engine runs so much better (260k km)! However I didn't dare to take the things apart but cleaned the nozlles with Tickopur T13 in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner. Now I have a special question that I hope you can answer. I torqued a bolt, that presses the connector down, a bit too tight by mistake. Only about 5 or 6 degrees. The clams in my engine (PSA HDI2.0) tend to break, it is said, so... Do I need to install that injector again or will it be fine? Of course I used a new fastener.
Well done on all of the great cleaning! Ultrasonic cleaning the injectors externally should do 90% of the job - and keep everything happy for quite a few years. The hold down method is pretty delicate, so it is not difficult to damage something. If you didn't run the engine then it shouldn't be necessary to take the injector back out to check the sealing.
Hi, you could also put the injector in a jar that is part filled up with gasoline, so that the tip is covered. Then put the jar into an ultrasonic cleaner filled with water. The ultasonic waves have no trouble passing through the jar, and you don't to use much gasoline - and there isn't much mess to clean up. A toothbrush and lots of scrubbing will also do some good.
@@StevenBTunerwhat i finally did is use a dremel soft brush. It worked well and got rid from all the carbon stuck on the tips of the injectors. Thanks
Just finished my first DIY cleaning of fuel injectors for a Volvo S60 2.4d. Result? The leek back test cam out with I:1, I:2, I3 having the same level of fuel in the return pipe, I:4 and I:5 are ~35% lower than the previous three injectors. I also have white smoke comming out of the exhaust and the engine doenst run smothly on idling, there is also a lot of shaking in the car and engine itself. Would you recommend on going back and re-cleaning them using a ultrasonic cleaner? I should also add I only managed to clean injectors 2 and 5. I wasn't able to unscrew the other three.. Note: The reason I was cleaning them was because the cam cover gasket was leaking and I had to take them out either way. Noticed a lot of soot in the ports so I went with the flow and cleaned them together with the EGR etc. Thanks in advance! :)
Hi, having different levels in the leak-off test is a strong indication that things aren't too good with the injectors. The car likes having the injectors closely matched, so it is always going to be best to clean them all the same amount. Also, double check all electrical connections to make sure all injectoers are firing.
Absolutely brilliant video, . You have tought me so much and i have enjoyed every single second of it. Thank you, thumbs up and subscribed. ****************
The sleeve nut on the bottom of the engine can be EXTREMELY tight. I used an 15mm AF deep six-point socket and 600mm breaker bar. The extra length gives better control but it was glad of it.
Hi, if you don't do any nozzle cleaning then they will probably last 300,000 or so. With nozzle cleaning every 100,000kms...well, I'll have to let you know when they die!
Hi Steven, pls could you help with this code thrown by my ford ranger 2.2l 2015. P062d - the Ranger cranks but no injector spray and no start. I've tried to check the injector drivers on the vehicle computer, I find it difficult to identify the "injector drivers" Hope to hear from you on this, thank you
Hi, that is a very unspecific kind of error and can be a blown fuse, a wiring fault or an ECU issue. It could take a while chasing wires around to get to the bottom of that one.
I used a 1/4 drive socket fitted backwards on the extension to clean the injector hole. Find one that’s a good fit. Ideally measure do it’s same diameter as the injector end. I stock on some self adhesive abrasive to clean the metal and lubricated it with WD40. Helps the filings to stick. Vacuum the hole clean, check and redo if necessary.
Nice video thank you. What size spanner is that? Im trying to clean my audi a4 tdi injectors but 15mm is too small and 16 too big. tried imperial sizes too but cant find. Thinking it might be some special spanner? Thank you
Hi, I used a standard metric spanner as far as I remember...but it was a while ago now. I hope you can get a tool that works for you as that is one tight connection!
Thank you perfect video I will try.. Over the weekend, I'm trying to make a extractor tool, any chance to find out the OD of the injector so I could make attachment to take the injector out, also does 40hz ultrasonic cleaner will be good enough? You could pick them up for £30 on ebay?
Hi, thanks for the kind comment! If you made a tool that had two flat claws that were spaced 26.1mm apart, it might be quite good at grabbing the injector under the metal head section. A 40 Kilohertz ultrasonic cleaner is perfect, and for injector parts as they don't need to be very large. All the best with the job!
G'day mate, this might be completely irrelevant but I was wondering about your comment on removing the solenoid would lose all calibration. I am in Australia and driving a Ford Ranger with Continental injectors, to get the 5th injector out, you remove the solenoid so it fits under the dash (straight 5 cylinder). My question is, does your comment reflect on all CRD injectors or is this a specific type that you are referencing? I am asking as I have done injector nozzle clean on all cylinders but seems to be running even rougher than before. All injectors have been placed back in same cylinder. Any way, let me know as I am struggling to find information online and came across your vid! Buy a ranger and do these videos on them!
Hi, I haven't done enough testing with solenoid removal to say one way or the other with any certainty - but there are guys that scribe everything and do it all up so that everything lines up again and say that they have absolutely no issues at all. All assumes that there is no problem to start with of course - did you also do a leak-off test on the injectors?
@@StevenBTuner ah righto thanks for the quick reply. I haven’t done a leak off test yet. What does this prove? I’m just confused as all I did was clean the nozzles and now it runs rougher! Cheers mate
@@thejarrah Hi, the leak-off test is to test the top end of the injectors for good operation - and that is usually where the problem lies if the vehicle is running badly. Clogged nozzle holes don't cause rough running until all of them are blocked, as more fuel gets pushed out of the un-blocked holes (over time this ruins your cylinder walls though). By unblocking the holes completely you might have highlighted the issues with the top end. It isn't a bad idea to do the leak-off test first so you know whether the injectors need to be replaced or sent off for a full professional rebuild.
@@StevenBTuner cheers mate, that was what I was thinking after they started running rough afterwards. I had a fuel return line come off briefly while running, and there was a lot of diesel, A LOT! I have already purchased a second hand set with low Ks on them so hopefully these will sort my issue. Thanks again for your reply.
Hi Steven, awesome video! You encouraged me to give my injectors a nice cleaning too after 320.000km and some beginning „smoke issues“ But before: how was the result of your work? All injectors still running?
Hi, it is on my list! Injectors can be a very real problem to get out, but fortunately the injectors in BMW engines seem to come out easier than most. The number one trick is to get the engine nice and hot before you start the removal, as the alloy head expands at twice the rate of the steel injectors, so it ensures that the injectors aren't clamped in metal to metal. However that doesn't make the job much fun for those fingertips...
What did you want to mix? Carbon clogging in the injector tip is difficult to shift with anything that you add to your tank as the cleaning solution would have to pass by the blockage to do the cleaning, but it can't because the flow is stopped.
Thanks for the amazing video! Question: only 2 of the 4 injectors I stripped down had the magnet in them. Is this normal? Perhaps the magnet was added in a revision?
Hi, not all variants have the shim, but you would usually expect to have all the type in the same engine. Just make sure it didn't escape to the workshop floor if it was there!
Hi, thanks for watching! I suspect that if you make some scribed lines when taking everything apart and then use them to re-assemble things then calibration shouldn't be effected. Putting in new parts is likely to change things though. How much things change is not something I've tested yet, and there are many folk that have claimed that their cars run fine without the correct calibration values, which could well be the case as older types of injectors never had such a thing.
I would check the solenoid on the valve is working and sealing, by using a 9 volt battery you can just use carb cleaner sprayed into the injector well probably be enough to clean it anyway without dismantling
Hey Steven, I am having trouble with a nozzle, that won't close, I have cleaned it pretty thoroughly, have you ever experienced that? And in that case, what did you do about it? BR Jeppe
Hi, you need a full rebuild kit so that you can replace the parts in the top end of the injector too if you are brave, or of course send it to a company that can do a full refurbishment for you.
Hello, i have a n57 engine that runs absolutely with zerro issues. The only problem is that when i take my engine cover off i can see wetness around 3 out of my 6 injectors. What does this mean ? Just bad seal o rings (copper ones) or is it something else ?
That is a mystery for sure! There is a lot of compression pressure pushing against the copper washers so you would expect gases and soot rather than liquid fuel to get past if they are failing. I would look very carefully at signs that the fuel is leaking from the fuel rail or connections to the injectors. You might need to use a strong magnifier and a bright light to find the source, while the engine is running.
Thanks for another great video, Stephen. This guy makes the best instructional videos of this type on RUclips. I would like to thank him for the time and patience he has extended to me.
:-) :-)
Who is ready to check their diesel fuel injectors for good operation, and then give them a nozzle clean? This is the new version of this video, and I’ve included some great extras that were suggested to me by you guys!
If you do the leak-off test, and you find that the amount of diesel in each vial is vastly different, or if the amounts are a lot different to what you see in the video - then you should remove your injector/s and send them off for a professional rebuild using genuine Bosch parts, and a re-calibration (you will need to re-code your injectors after). If the leak-off test shows that there are no issues with the injector's high pressure ball valve then you may want to go on to clean the injector nozzles, to make sure that no blocked holes are causing a bad spray pattern. Your engine will continue to run reasonably ok with one, two, or even three blocked nozzle holes, but the resulting bad spray pattern will eventually cause wear on your engine's cylinder walls. It is the slow death of your engine. By doing this service every 100,000 miles, you can help your engine last much longer!
Here is a breakdown of the chapters in this video:
0:38 Corrected Subtitles are now available for all Steven B Tuner videos
1:02 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing - Vehicle Preparation
1:47 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Get to the Injectors
2:31 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Remove Injector Connections
3:55 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Connect Test Equipment
5:41 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Run Leak Off Test
7:13 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Are the Injectors Good?
7:46 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Removal Tips
10:02 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Disassemble Injectors
13:36 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Inspect Dirty Nozzle
14:09 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Ultrasonic Clean the Nozzles
15:06 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Inspect the Ultrasonic Cleaned Nozzle
15:44 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Pressure Washer Clean the Nozzles
16:34 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Re-assemble the Injectors
19:01 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Injector Installation Tips, Reaming and Cleaning
20:56 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Febi Bilstein Special High Temperature Ceramic Grease
Hello again Steven . Picture says 1000 words.
During this video @ 10:20 , with your left hand you touch the injector,
this is the part of the injector I mean when I say sleeve/shaft with the O-Ring on it too, this shaft can slide up and down(no side to side movement) 10-15mm on 2 of my injectors but other 2 soild.
Any help appreciated thanks from Leon.
thank you for the time you take to put all this details in here, it really makes a difference
@@ay7pre You're most welcome!
I wanted to know, after you clean the injectors, do you have to code them so that the engine will start again? or it just starts and runs as before?
@@ay7pre Hi, the nozzle cleaning has just brought the injectors back to how they were when they were calibrated, so there is no coding as long as you put them back in the same cylinder, and keep the parts for each injector together throughout the whole process.
Great information
Hi just noticed, the part of the injector with the o-ring, is this shaft/ sleeve suppose to move/slide 10-15mm up or down thanks much appreciate
Thank you for your help in making this video. I removed my 4 bosh injectors from my opel corsa diesel and cleaned the nozzles using an ultrasonic cleaner like you did. The car is running much smoother now. The acceleration is very smooth. My car has 290k km. Thanks again
Great job!
@@StevenBTuner Hello, i have a n57 engine with 105k miles, it runs perfect no rough idling, no smoke nothing runs like new, but there is only one and only one issue, when i take the engine cover off i can see wetness around 3 out of my 6 injectors. Does this indicate bad seal o rings(copper ones)or is it something more serious ? Thank you in advance your answer would help me a lot !!
@@Flatwaterkayakpm yes, you have a small leak around the injectors. You will need to remove them and replace all copper washers. First I would recommend cleaning the area and observe it for a week just to make sure that it is not a spillage of oil before you start.
Hi, your videos are well presented and easy to follow and understand.
They encourage DIY mechanics like me to have a go at doing our own refurbs and repairs, etc,
and also save ££££’s.
Thank you!
Glad to help!
Great video. Easy to understand and many tips for people who doing this the first time. Great job. Thank you.
Welcome!
Thanks Steven, I found your videos amazing - it gives a little confidence to do it yourself. Bless you.
I'm glad they help you out!
good stuff just pulled mine i have about 6mm of carbon on the tips.. might be why it was smoking (12v cummins ppump mechanical injectors) , you must moonlight as a radio DJ with that voice hahah
Hi, good work! It could be a good idea to check the rest of the intake system for nasty buildups too.
10:45... I always thought that these had to be as tight as could as the tension of the spring inside was regulated by the thickness of the shims... you know the shims, usely 2 per while calibrating the tension of the spring. 20:34 I insert a sharp wooden dowel in there to block the chamber hole and blow compressed air around to get the carbon out holding the dowel. and I glue th washer with some grease to keep it from falling down.
Hi, thanks for sharing those great tips to make the job a bit easier!
Hi there
Can you help and show me where EGR valve location on 2015 ml 250 Bluetec
Thank you so much
Hi, Steven!
The video was really good! I would like to add some tips from my own experience:
1. After the disassemble of the fuel injectors, I recommend to put them vertically in a jar with concentrated drain cleaner and leave them in the jar for 2 hours but be careful, the level of the drain cleaner needs to not exceed the middle of the injectors (this will help with the opening of the thread and it helps clean the deposit much easier).
2. As the solution that I use in the ultrasonic cleaner device is concentrated drain cleaner and for the rinsing I use isopropyl alcohol.
3. After you assemble the components of the injector, before you thread it, put a small amount of thread blocker (this is going to help with possible future loses of fuel).
Keep going with the awesome videos!
Hi, thanks for sharing that great information!
Hi Lenard, what do you mean "drain cleaner"? Any specific type of it? (Hungarian is OK as well). Thread blocker you mean a thread locker, like Loctite? What exact type do you use? Thank you your answer in advance!
@@mihalym.6876
Hi Mihaly , drain cleaner = pure liquid sodium or potasium hidroxide . (lugos oldat amit a Lidl lehet kapni,amit a viz lefolyok kidugaszolasahoz hasznalnak.Ami fontos hogy fojekony oldat legyen. Loctite is ok.
(A menetett jo egy csep Loctite-al leblokolni, de ha lehet elote zsiroldo szerel letakaritani,peldaul fekrendszer takarito spray-el )
An easy test you can do if u experience hard starting is to just simply remove the connectors and return line from the injectors and crank the engine, there should be NO leakage coming from the injectors, any diesel leaking from an injector doing this test is a bad injector and needs to be checked. Great vid :D
Edit: this test is obviously only viable if the high pressure pump and rail is generating pressure to the injectors
this is almost the best video I have seen to this theme - thank you. Very helpful also for an Merc W163 270 cdi
I'm glad to hear that it helps you out!
Hi can you tell me what cleaning fluid did you use in the ultrasonic cleaner please
Hi, thanks for watching! It is carburettor cleaner.
As many others have already mentioned these are great videos, well done.
Cleaned my N47 BMW DPF after viewing a few of your videos and great results. I did used a pressure washer as well which appears to get some extra ash out. Checked DPF with camera after and no damage. Now very low back pressure and performance restored to like new.
Many thanks.
Thanks, and great to hear that your DIY DPF clean worked well!
the DPF video was gold
I worked in a diesel injector factory for 11 years building and testing injectors.
100s of thousands of them. The moment you disassemble them you throw all the calibration off. If you are lucky the opening ( operating ) pressure may just be off by 1 or 2 bar. If you are not lucky it can be a lot more. Maybe 10 bar or more.
Hi, great information to know! Is it top end or bottom end disassembly that effects the calibration more? I was always led to believe that it was the top end rebuilds that cause the most calibration issues, so it would be great to hear from someone with first-hand experience.
Do you have to use new o rings when you re-install , as well as silicone grease ?
If you can do something for the n54 injectors you would have a video like no other. cleaning them and recharging the piezo crystal in car.. only index 11 or 12..
Just an idea lol
Hi, thanks for watching, and for the great idea - it will feature in a future video.
Is it necessary to take out the injectors , can't we perform this job with Liqui Moly Diesel Purge ?
A comparison between running straight diesel purge vs. ultrasonic nozzle cleaning would be a great test! I'll add it to my list.
@@StevenBTuner which cleaning process is better , when will u make a comparison video ?
Nice video, done this few times... Exact, good, and right procedure. Just one very very important note:
Never ever ever never under no circumstance EVER REUSE!!!!!!! copper washer!!!!! Always buy NEW and ORiGINAL washers before this procedure. And don't forget to clean injector hole like shown in this video. Especially bottom part where your Cooper washer sits... Good joob man, liked, subscribed.
I am glad you got rid of, mouth sounds from your earlier videos... Good job
jebeno mljackanje :)
Thanks for watching, and for noticing the improvements!
best video,thank you,the ultrasonic in video is 3-10-30L?
Hi, in the vid it is a 10.
20:15 a bertter way is to block the inside hole with a plastic/wood with the correct size and blow some compressed air to remove everithing outside.
A great idea!
Yes, or a long tapered punch!
400 euro for one injector on my Toyota avensis diesel I bought the whole car for 1460
Hi, that is pretty normal for a lot of cars, which is why some preventative maintenance is very worthwhile.
@@StevenBTuner got one in a breakers yard for 50 all soted
Excellent detailed procedure with easy to follow narrative. A++++
Glad you enjoyed it!
best assembly video, thank u very much
You are most welcome!
Great educational videos!
Hey man I lost one of the very small spacers(@12:14) any way I can get a part number for the internal pieces to reorder?
Oh no! I haven't seen one - could be worth buying an old injector on ebay or personally visiting a Bosch service center to see if they might take pity on you and have some parts knocking around in the back of a drawer...
@@StevenBTuner had a feeling so thanks alot for the help brother
Hello! Wonderful to find a good video for such a specific car. My N47 has 225,000 miles or 362k Kilometer.
I’m getting ready to do a lot of major servicing including this. However I’m lacking a good set of tools for proper cleaning. I see that a completely new set of injectors OEM is fairly expensive but actually cheaper and easier to get than all of the equipment needed to properly clean. Would it be worth it to go ahead and replace all the injectors?
Hi, thanks for watching! There is absolutely nothing wrong with putting in new injectors, especially if you are planning to keep the car for a long time. Your biggest challenge might be getting them to come out - so definitely get the engine really warm before you start the job.
Wow what a perfectly detailed job !!! Do you need to recode it? They definitely going to spray more than before...or at least clear adaptations?
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad you appreciate the detail :-) There is no need to re-code as this job takes the injectors back to match the calibration that is written on them. If the top end is disassembled then they will need to be re-calibrated. Clearing any fuel trim adaptations isn't a bad idea though.
So helpfull vedio thank you
Most welcome 😊
Great video! If the leak off test shows excessive amounts coming out of 1 or more injectors can the top of the injector be stuck open? I ask because after running bad fuel with sediment I only get good fuel pressure when I cap off the injectors. Thanks
Hi, it could certainly have something jammed in there causing the issue.
Great video although I have a question. You started off with a leak test and then serviced the injectors. What happens if an injector failed you initial testing - would your servicing demonstrated here have rectified the failed injector and put back into service?
Hi, if the leak off test fails then the top end will need new parts and the calibration values will have to be re-created. I should mention that having perfect calibration values is not always essential for good running and that there are many folk who have re-built the top end themselves. Be aware that it is a risk, and make your choice :-)
@@StevenBTuner can top end be serviced or that means needs new injector ?
Hi, you can get top end parts too. It will change the calibration, but many folk have done it and found that the engine ECU will compensate enough to provide smooth running.
Excellent work.
I tried using injector cleaner directly on the nozzles but it is not effective.
The only way is your dismantling method 👍👍
They are stubborn little carbon deposits for sure!
This is just my cup of tea.
Lots of knowledge shared there good video.
Thanks 👍
The copper washer should be heated up with a propane torch and inserted into the water. The washer softened in this way and will lie nicely and seal the injector.
Hi, if the mating location is clean and smooth then there should be no issue with the washers provided from Bosch.
Only if you want to reuse them. Nowadays its not necessary.
Pinch off leak line rather than running the line open into a containsr. The fuel is coming from the pressure relief valve and with the leak line pinched the PRV spill-off will find its proper way back to the fuel tank.
Great idea!
If you have one or more injectors with a high volume would that be enough to cause the overflow line to fail ? I've experienced this recently on a BMW 335d with the M57 engine.
I would say that it is unlikely that high flow injectors on their own would cause that issue.
Are you having a low pressure issue? I'm having that issue and injector 4 goes over the acceptable range and wondering if that could be the cause of the problem
I have this issue, I seem to have some sort of pressure in the return/overflow line as it seperates and leaks the excess diesel into the engine bay. At first the return hose would pop off at a t-piece, further away from the rail. After tightening that, its now popping off above the the injectors. What did you guys find was the cause. I have the N57D
Thank you so much, this video is great. I'm thinking of cleaning my BMW injectors myself thanks to you.
I have one question tho, my 330D E46 has around 335 000 km and I know one of my injector is not great. I got the DDE warning sometime and I fix it with injector cleaning stuff poured in the fuel tank and it's working for some time but I feel that my engine isn't happy at low RPM.
So my question is, do I have to test out the injectors if I plan to clean them all ? I don't have a lot of money otherwise I would buy new ones but I figured that the all cleaning kit (Injector removal kit + the ultrasonic cleaner) would be way way cheaper (around 120 euro). Do you think it's a good idea ?
Thanks
also, can I buy the small 3L ultrasonic cleaner ? or do I need a bigger one ?
or I can use my pressure washer
Hi, thanks for watching! The leak-off test is mainly to test the top end of the injectors and the ultrasonic/pressure cleaning is to sort out the nozzle end. If you have over 100,000kms on the car then there is a good chance that there are one or more nozzle holes that are blocked and if your injectors have never been removed in 335,000kms then there are going to be lots of blocked holes. My thinking is that if there is a failure in the leak off test then there is no point doing any cleaning as the best course of action is to send the whole lot off for professional rebuilding or replacement. A small ultrasonic cleaner is great, as injector parts aren't very big.
Do you teach me to repair diesel injector, I will be pleased
the torque is 50 foot pounds for the top
Good job. Really helpful video. Tnx Steven
Hi, glad you like it!
Hi Steven, I don’t have the option to warm up the engine I cannot start the engine because of a possible timing chain noise which I am concerned about.
Hi, you will find out pretty quickly if they are stuck in tight due to carbon or corrosion, and a lot of cars don't have problems with either - so you could be fine.
One thing to say about cleaning injector holes in the head.
DO NOT REAM if not necessary!
PLUG THE HOLE while cleaning!
So there is injector plugs ( a bronze/copper tip shaped like the injector tip with a threaded hole in the back). You push the plug deep in the hole and un-thread the rod leaving the plug in the injector hole. Then there is a fine brass wirebrush with a sleeve. Yo insert the wirebrush with the sleeve covering the bristles, then retract part of the sleeve to expose the bristles inside the injector hole on the flat surface and give it some twists to wirebrush the hole. Then with compressed air an a long tip you blow out all the gunk from the wirebrushing (the brass plug will still be seated and prevent any gunk entering the engine). Remove the plug by threading the rod on the back of the plug and pull the plug. Repeat for every cylinder.
Reaming is needed if after wirebrushing there is pitting and score marks that could not be sealed by the copper washer. Reaming is quite bad, but as last resort may work. By reaming the injector will seat deeper in the chamber and can create a LOT of side effects. One of the worst side effects will be cracking the piston head because the diesel spray may wet the top of the piston causing a sharp cooling before ignition because the injector tip is much closer to the piston. I have a whole set of iveco truck pistons all of them have 5 cracks in the omega chamber of the piston aligning with the 5hole injection pattern. That truck head was reamed several times and the injector was sitting 3mm deeper than intended. those 3mm made this cracking possible. And by cracking i mean deep cracks and in several pistons even blown chunks of the omega chamber with huge loss of pressure under the piston creating major problems in the oiling system and PCV leading to runaway diesel engines and may blow up the turbo from improper oiling with contaminated oil and aerated oil from the huge crank pressure. All of this for 3mm of ream in a 120mm bore engine for a truck. In a passenger car tolerances are much higher (for the much smaller bore and stroke) and 1mm might create similar problems.
So do not ream! and if you do, compensate with a thicker copper washer to sit the injector tip at precisely the right height!
Excellent points - thankyou for taking the time to write such a detailed comment!
@@StevenBTuner you're welcome. Congrats on all the content you do. I will actually clean my dpf based on your content. I actually am very close to the field of automotive beeing phd automotive enginer working at a prestigious automotive engineering university with many colaboration including Bosch diesel injection training center, zf, castrol and plenty others.
I say this not to boast myself, but just to have a bit of perspective about my background as it do matters sometimes where the information is coming from.
I see your problem injector 5 and 6 is not working
You are the first to spot that important issue! :-) :-)
@@StevenBTuner lol
Tnx watching your videos from baguio city philippines
Thanks for watching! :-)
Thanks a lot. Keep up what you doing.
Thanks, will do!
Mine is a VW Polo 1.2 tdi i bought brand new back in December 2011, clocked 1lac 24 thousand kms , with all the services from authorised VW workshop. Am I also required to clean the injectors? As the company engineers donot recommend to open the injectors unless it is giving any trouble
Hi, there are a few of factors to consider with this kind of maintenance. Is it only necessary if you think you will have the car long enough to get the benefit of the extra work. If you want your engine and injectors to make it to 500k kms plus then keeping the nozzles clean is necessary, but if you expect to sell the car at 200k kms or send it to the scrapyard at 300k kms then there is no reason to do the extra work.
@@StevenBTuner perfect 👍👍🙏🙏
It will be similar operation on a mk7 golf?
Great video.
Hi, you will have to look up the part numbers for your car to see if the injectors are of a similar type.
thanks for so much detailed video !
You're welcome!
Do you know the torque spec on the M6 flange nuts that hold the injector clamps down?
6:11 isn't that a black moving debris in the lower tube, fuel filter is not working correctly, illuminate for me if I am wrong?
Well spotted! I had a close look at that, and it turned out to be small insect - it must have crawled into the tube before I connected it up. They are annoying little things that get everywhere for a week or so every year, and I have another one that has made its way into my computer monitor between the outside surface and the LCD, so it looks like a dead pixel.
@@StevenBTuner it's ok, the priority is for the dead pixel ^o^, but great video, good continuation
Если вы искали тут русский комментарий
Стоит пояснить почему надо использовать _только_ ультразвук или мойку высокого давления.
Отличное видео
Great Video! I have a X5 2009 M57 engine. Do you have links for the tools ?
Hi, there are Amazon links in the description.
yes thank you. seems though allot of the products are out of stock. Do you have a link for your video on injector coding ? did you have to code after the cleaning ?
Hi, cleaning the injectors should bring them back closer to their original calibration values. It seems it is time for me to go through and correct those Amazon links!
You need this!!!
Seems a bit more complicated than spark plugs replacement. Thanks for the great video.
Tip of the day! If you put some Vaseline on the seat cutting tool the carbon stick to the Vaseline and a lot less if any will drop in side.
Hi, there is a definite downside to using any kind of normal grease/Vaseline etc, and that is that you then have to get rid of all of it out of there too. I find that vacuuming it up is a lot quicker than fiddling around with more paper towel and solvents trying to get the grease out, and there will always be something that falls in to the hole regardless. Any leftover normal grease or Vaseline will carbonize with the extreme heat, and you risk permanently sticking your injector in place.
@@StevenBTuner but you don't really want carbon going down the bore either and you could even use the white heat resident paste instead of Vaseline if your that worried.
Fantastisk video
Glad it helped you out!
Super!! 👍👍 Vielen Dank aus Deutschland. Eine wirklich gute Anleitung. Top!
Hi Steven. Very nice and detail video. Did you tested leak off test after injector tips cleaning? Did injector with bigger back flow gets normal value now? And one extra question. If i have correction -2.5, 0.4, 2.5, and 0.6. What injector is bad 3rd or 1st?
Hi, if the car is running smoothly with those values then none of them are all that bad. They are only really 'bad' when they can't be corrected for any more.
Steven, you're amazing. I have a 2010 BMW 316d LCI and at least 1 injector is dodgy, putting the yellow "drive slowly" light on. I saw white smoke, smelling of diesel, from the exhaust. I was frightened of the injectors at £1200 ($1600) the set. Not any more, thanks to you. I owe you, mate. Brilliant.
Hi, there still might be something terminal with your injectors - but it is good to have the knowledge to check and correct everything you can.
@@StevenBTuner I've just removed 1 injector (twice). I bought a used replacement for £25 and I'll see how it goes now. I had to remove the replacement because I was too tight to buy a new copper washer. Once annealed, it's OK now. You've been a massive help to me and I'm grateful.
@@seankirby2580 Great to hear that it all worked out - well done!
@@StevenBTuner Update later. I did still have a problem. Fuel starvation on high loads. Bought a leak-off kit and a second hand injector. The test showed the "new" injector (cheap ebay buy) hardly leaked back whereas the old ones filled 30ml in a minute at tickover. Off to ebay for more. So much fuel leaking back that the high pressure rail pressure was low. My old injectors did 137,000 miles / 220,000km. Very grateful for your help.
@@seankirby2580 Hi, sounds like you are on the right track!
Hi, got a question..
If i want to replace old nozzles to new ones.. then do i have to do chip tune or (recalibration) again? engine m57d25 (256d1).. I dont exactly know if fuel conumption is caused by nozzles so much but.. when i drive 90km/h i got like 8l/100km but when i drive 120km/h i have 5l fuel consumption
Thank you.
Hi, the new nozzles on their own should help bring the injector back toward its original calibration value - although of course there is likely to be a bit of wear on the other components too. Plenty of folk change all sorts of parts in the injector without an issue as the car will compensate for small changes - although there is never going to be a guarantee!
Hi. I also drive the M57 engine with the BOSCH solenoid valve injectors. In the event that I decide to "only" clean the injectors using the ultrasonic bat, would it still be necessary to enter the resulting changed adaptation values into the control unit? Because I don't have a measurement report. It's clear when it comes to refurbished ones. There is the measurement report with current values. Or do the cleaned injectors learn themselves?
Grüsse aus Deutschland
Hi, the cleaning should bring them back closer to the values they had when they were first installed. The engine ECU adapts for variances.
exellent
Hi, thanks for watching!
Hi! I did your dpf trick with succes some time ago, and now I also did the injector cleaning thing. The engine runs so much better (260k km)! However I didn't dare to take the things apart but cleaned the nozlles with Tickopur T13 in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner.
Now I have a special question that I hope you can answer. I torqued a bolt, that presses the connector down, a bit too tight by mistake. Only about 5 or 6 degrees. The clams in my engine (PSA HDI2.0) tend to break, it is said, so...
Do I need to install that injector again or will it be fine? Of course I used a new fastener.
Well done on all of the great cleaning! Ultrasonic cleaning the injectors externally should do 90% of the job - and keep everything happy for quite a few years. The hold down method is pretty delicate, so it is not difficult to damage something. If you didn't run the engine then it shouldn't be necessary to take the injector back out to check the sealing.
that was a stunning vid pal what great content
Thanks!
Excellent! A clear articulate explanation.
Welcome!
Very good demonstration Steven well done
:-)
This wayyyy to scary for an amateur like me. What about submerge the tip of it in some gasoline and and gentle brush with a tooth brush? Good?
Hi, you could also put the injector in a jar that is part filled up with gasoline, so that the tip is covered. Then put the jar into an ultrasonic cleaner filled with water. The ultasonic waves have no trouble passing through the jar, and you don't to use much gasoline - and there isn't much mess to clean up. A toothbrush and lots of scrubbing will also do some good.
@@StevenBTunerwhat i finally did is use a dremel soft brush. It worked well and got rid from all the carbon stuck on the tips of the injectors. Thanks
I gently brush them with a copper wire wheel on the bench grinder. 😆
@@jancloddlafront9185don’t do that, you may damage the holes in the nozzle.
Just finished my first DIY cleaning of fuel injectors for a Volvo S60 2.4d. Result? The leek back test cam out with I:1, I:2, I3 having the same level of fuel in the return pipe, I:4 and I:5 are ~35% lower than the previous three injectors. I also have white smoke comming out of the exhaust and the engine doenst run smothly on idling, there is also a lot of shaking in the car and engine itself. Would you recommend on going back and re-cleaning them using a ultrasonic cleaner?
I should also add I only managed to clean injectors 2 and 5. I wasn't able to unscrew the other three..
Note: The reason I was cleaning them was because the cam cover gasket was leaking and I had to take them out either way. Noticed a lot of soot in the ports so I went with the flow and cleaned them together with the EGR etc.
Thanks in advance! :)
Hi, having different levels in the leak-off test is a strong indication that things aren't too good with the injectors. The car likes having the injectors closely matched, so it is always going to be best to clean them all the same amount. Also, double check all electrical connections to make sure all injectoers are firing.
You are a Legend Steve
Thanks once more
Thanks!
Absolutely brilliant video, . You have tought me so much and i have enjoyed every single second of it. Thank you, thumbs up and subscribed. ****************
:-) :-)
Not sure why, but when I watch this video I get the: "How To Uninstall McAfee Antivirus" vibes.
Haha!
The sleeve nut on the bottom of the engine can be EXTREMELY tight. I used an 15mm AF deep six-point socket and 600mm breaker bar. The extra length gives better control but it was glad of it.
Certainly is!
Is there a recommended milage to replace diesel injectors?
I have met few mechanics in Australia who recommend injectors replacement at 150,000 kms.
Hi, if you don't do any nozzle cleaning then they will probably last 300,000 or so. With nozzle cleaning every 100,000kms...well, I'll have to let you know when they die!
Hi Steven, pls could you help with this code thrown by my ford ranger 2.2l 2015. P062d - the Ranger cranks but no injector spray and no start. I've tried to check the injector drivers on the vehicle computer, I find it difficult to identify the "injector drivers"
Hope to hear from you on this, thank you
Hi, that is a very unspecific kind of error and can be a blown fuse, a wiring fault or an ECU issue. It could take a while chasing wires around to get to the bottom of that one.
I used a 1/4 drive socket fitted backwards on the extension to clean the injector hole. Find one that’s a good fit. Ideally measure do it’s same diameter as the injector end. I stock on some self adhesive abrasive to clean the metal and lubricated it with WD40. Helps the filings to stick. Vacuum the hole clean, check and redo if necessary.
Excellent tip!
Nice video thank you. What size spanner is that? Im trying to clean my audi a4 tdi injectors but 15mm is too small and 16 too big. tried imperial sizes too but cant find. Thinking it might be some special spanner? Thank you
Hi, I used a standard metric spanner as far as I remember...but it was a while ago now. I hope you can get a tool that works for you as that is one tight connection!
Thank you perfect video I will try.. Over the weekend, I'm trying to make a extractor tool, any chance to find out the OD of the injector so I could make attachment to take the injector out, also does 40hz ultrasonic cleaner will be good enough? You could pick them up for £30 on ebay?
Hi, thanks for the kind comment! If you made a tool that had two flat claws that were spaced 26.1mm apart, it might be quite good at grabbing the injector under the metal head section. A 40 Kilohertz ultrasonic cleaner is perfect, and for injector parts as they don't need to be very large. All the best with the job!
G'day mate, this might be completely irrelevant but I was wondering about your comment on removing the solenoid would lose all calibration. I am in Australia and driving a Ford Ranger with Continental injectors, to get the 5th injector out, you remove the solenoid so it fits under the dash (straight 5 cylinder). My question is, does your comment reflect on all CRD injectors or is this a specific type that you are referencing? I am asking as I have done injector nozzle clean on all cylinders but seems to be running even rougher than before. All injectors have been placed back in same cylinder. Any way, let me know as I am struggling to find information online and came across your vid! Buy a ranger and do these videos on them!
Hi, I haven't done enough testing with solenoid removal to say one way or the other with any certainty - but there are guys that scribe everything and do it all up so that everything lines up again and say that they have absolutely no issues at all. All assumes that there is no problem to start with of course - did you also do a leak-off test on the injectors?
@@StevenBTuner ah righto thanks for the quick reply. I haven’t done a leak off test yet. What does this prove? I’m just confused as all I did was clean the nozzles and now it runs rougher! Cheers mate
@@thejarrah Hi, the leak-off test is to test the top end of the injectors for good operation - and that is usually where the problem lies if the vehicle is running badly. Clogged nozzle holes don't cause rough running until all of them are blocked, as more fuel gets pushed out of the un-blocked holes (over time this ruins your cylinder walls though). By unblocking the holes completely you might have highlighted the issues with the top end. It isn't a bad idea to do the leak-off test first so you know whether the injectors need to be replaced or sent off for a full professional rebuild.
@@StevenBTuner cheers mate, that was what I was thinking after they started running rough afterwards. I had a fuel return line come off briefly while running, and there was a lot of diesel, A LOT! I have already purchased a second hand set with low Ks on them so hopefully these will sort my issue. Thanks again for your reply.
@@thejarrah All the best in getting everything back to 100% good again!
very good video!
Can the same be done with CDI injectors of mercedes?
My vito has done 300.000 km
Hi, those injectors are almost identical to those in the video, so everything should be pretty similar. All the best with the job!
Hi Steven, awesome video! You encouraged me to give my injectors a nice cleaning too after 320.000km and some beginning „smoke issues“
But before: how was the result of your work? All injectors still running?
Hi, it is now coming up to 100,000 kms since I did that job - so I probably should do another leak off test to make sure everything is still good.
At the start you removed the electrical connector from the 1st injector only. Any reason why only from the first one?
Thank you! Very instructive. But I don't think I will be refurbishing my injectors myself.
I understand, it's not for everyone...
Steven Turner, Why is your Ultrasonic cleaner so loud? They operate at 40khz which is above human hearing, so why?
Hi, this is an older and cheap model with annoying 20kHz transducers. It works well enough remove dirt and small animals.
Hi Steven, really great explanation!!
Do you know if Mercedes CDI Injectors are similar?
Hi, thanks for watching! They are very similar - the leak off test and nozzle clean should work essentially the same way.
Do you have a video of removal and replacement of injectors on this model (looking for info on 2014 x35d engine)
Thanks
Hi, it is on my list! Injectors can be a very real problem to get out, but fortunately the injectors in BMW engines seem to come out easier than most. The number one trick is to get the engine nice and hot before you start the removal, as the alloy head expands at twice the rate of the steel injectors, so it ensures that the injectors aren't clamped in metal to metal. However that doesn't make the job much fun for those fingertips...
Great video. Question if I mix 6 oz to 20 gal of diesel, will it eventually clean my injectors? Thanks
What did you want to mix? Carbon clogging in the injector tip is difficult to shift with anything that you add to your tank as the cleaning solution would have to pass by the blockage to do the cleaning, but it can't because the flow is stopped.
Thanks for the amazing video! Question: only 2 of the 4 injectors I stripped down had the magnet in them. Is this normal? Perhaps the magnet was added in a revision?
Hi, not all variants have the shim, but you would usually expect to have all the type in the same engine. Just make sure it didn't escape to the workshop floor if it was there!
hi, this tutorial is also for bmw 320d e46 1999, direct injection? Thank you bro!
Hi, everything in this vid should apply to your E46 too.
Hi Steve, 8:52 can you please explain why/how the precise calibration is affected when removing the solenoid? Thanks
Hi, thanks for watching! I suspect that if you make some scribed lines when taking everything apart and then use them to re-assemble things then calibration shouldn't be effected. Putting in new parts is likely to change things though. How much things change is not something I've tested yet, and there are many folk that have claimed that their cars run fine without the correct calibration values, which could well be the case as older types of injectors never had such a thing.
I very much enjoyed your video, one of the best & I was totally glued all through the process, can't wait to see the next video. ❤❤❤😊
Glad you liked it!
Thank You Steven i report back to You of my progress with my Skoda Superb 2011
All the best with the job!
Hello I fit refurbished injectors.and given my new imei number.and can't to write new code? I not understand why not give. Bmw f10 525d
Hi, that's not what you want! I can only recommend using a different diagnostic unit.
I would check the solenoid on the valve is working and sealing, by using a 9 volt battery you can just use carb cleaner sprayed into the injector well probably be enough to clean it anyway without dismantling
Hi, a good tip!
awesome steven! been wondering what type of cleaning liquid you are using in the sonic Cleaner?
Hi, it is called "carburettor cleaner" and it is specifically for ultrasonic cleaners.
@@StevenBTuner awesome! Thanks for the info and great content. Your earned a sub.
I have to replace my cylinder head cover gasket tomorrow (B47 engine), and came across this video ( thank you) to clean the injectors too!
You are most welcome, and all the best with the job!
Hey Steven, I am having trouble with a nozzle, that won't close, I have cleaned it pretty thoroughly, have you ever experienced that? And in that case, what did you do about it?
BR
Jeppe
Hi, you need a full rebuild kit so that you can replace the parts in the top end of the injector too if you are brave, or of course send it to a company that can do a full refurbishment for you.
Hello, i have a n57 engine that runs absolutely with zerro issues. The only problem is that when i take my engine cover off i can see wetness around 3 out of my 6 injectors. What does this mean ? Just bad seal o rings (copper ones) or is it something else ?
That is a mystery for sure! There is a lot of compression pressure pushing against the copper washers so you would expect gases and soot rather than liquid fuel to get past if they are failing. I would look very carefully at signs that the fuel is leaking from the fuel rail or connections to the injectors. You might need to use a strong magnifier and a bright light to find the source, while the engine is running.