@@samedigirl Thanks so much for letting me know! I have amended the link and here it is for you again if you are still interested in watching! ruclips.net/video/HV0XCpN76cg/видео.html
Thanks! Good idea to check it because if your are starting to get Black Death, it is much easier to fix if you catch it early (carbon deposits on top of the engine makes it much more difficult and time consuming).
@@ReviveMyRide I've just come in from checking my injectors, luckily they are all very dry and clean. Trying to work out what could be the starting issues? It's a 2006 CLK 320 CDI. Starting from cold takes a good 10 seconds, then blows out smoke from the exhaust for a few seconds. It start straight away once it's been started. I've put a brand new battery in, new glow plugs and a new glow plug relay, still no joy. Trying to work out what it could be? The only fault showing on my cheap code reader is a front 02 sensor, but wouldn't have thought that would cause starting issues. Thanks again for the great video. I have subscribed 🙂
@@Leo-the-lion1974 Hi, actually, my car does this too. My personal view is that it is an old car and the injectors are no longer doing a "mist", more of a "stream" of fuel, which is more difficult to ignite. I don't have much experience with fuel injector cleaning additives, so can't comment / recommend one. Removing and sending the injectors away for cleaning "may" fix the problem. Smoke on start up is unburnt fuel. Since the car doesn't start straight away, the injectors keep giving a squirt but the fuel doesn't get burnt because the engine hasn't started. Eventually it does start and burns off all of the excess fuel within the first 10 secs or so... Thanks for subscribing, great to have you onboard! 😊
Thanks! I haven't bled the entire fuel system from the tank all of the way to the injectors before, just what you saw in the video. I have found that once you have completed the work that you are doing on the fuel system, if you turn the ignition on (but don't start the car) you will hear the main pump (at the tank) run to prime the system. If you repeat this process a few times, that goes a long way to priming the fuel system. Then, you need to prime the high pressure fuel pump and fuel rail. This can be more tricky and often involved cranking the engine a lot until it eventually starts. Take care not to overheat the starter motor (let it rest some) and be prepared to keep charging the battery but eventually you will get it. Some owners say a full fuel tank (fill it up before you start the work) and jacking up the rear, so the tank is higher also helps. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
It's E10 on mine. I did this check today which was okay when I put penetrant on my glow plugs and changed the fuel filter. When replacing the centre part of the airbox make sure the orange gasket is okay and not deformed. Use silicone spray to lubricate it. Nip up the julibee clip too, not tight, just snug to prevent the inlet plastic cracking when sliding back onto the turbo.
When im doing the service ill obviously check the injectors on both side, see what the situation is ?? Thanks for the heads up and another item to check !!
From what I have read, the ECU programming is about optimising the set up of the injectors but the engine will run. Sorry, never tried it though. Also, sorry to send you another link but I found this one really interesting because they were talking about the numbers on the side of the injectors (if it is the same, it is a straight swap with no coding) and on certain engines, they are also plug and play. Seems you need someone with STAR diagnostics and I imaging it would be possible to get someone mobile that will come to you. Hope that helps some! forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/c220-cdi-injector-flow-rate-markings.157434/ Thanks, Phil
Thanks! I see you have watched both vids. I produced the 2nd one 2yrs after my initial fix, to show that the "fix" was still working. Also I have hopefully improved lighting, video quality etc... 👍
Both the videos give excellent information. Thank you. In your list of tools I notice that in this video the slide hammer is a cheaper one and less comprehensive than the first. Just as good as each other for this job? Also I was wondering the pros and cons of taking all the injectors out and servicing them, ultrasonic cleaning etc. Any views or just do the bare necessity? Many thanks.
Hi @johncochrane544 Thanks for the great questions! Slide Hammers: The problem is that Amazon sellers delist items so frequently that I often have to check my links and put a new tool in. So, the link from the first video "may" be the actual tool I used. Later one probably not but the key thing is, it needs to have the right adaptor and thread size to go onto the injector. So, as it is a tool that you won't use very often, unless the reviews are awful (and they shouldn't be if I have linked to them!) I would go with the cheapest tool that will do the job. Injector cleaning: Our cars are getting old now and the injectors probably aren't doing the nice spray pattern that they used to do: Evidence is lots of smoke during heavy acceleration (unburnt diesel) and probably loss of power and economy. The injectors almost certainly will just keep going but if the car is a long term keeper for you and the prices aren't too extortionate, then injector cleaning could be a good idea! Caveat: I have never sent injectors away myself, I just changed all of the injector seat seals as shown in the video. Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Many thanks for your reply. Fortunately it appears I was jumping the gun and fearing the worse as I could see some black stuff around the soundproofing. After removing air filters etc it turned out to be oil from the small pipe just before turbo. The car failed its mot on emissions and the garage replaced the fuel filter and filled it with injector cleaner to clean injectors and duly passed on retest which is why I was thinking of taking them all out and cleaning them. I also fancied an ultrasonic but that will now have to wait as I will just use some diesel purge next time my tank is low.
@@johncochrane544 makes sense! I’m not sure I would fancy taking the injectors out unless I was sure it was required. I’ve heard the additives can do a pretty good job. 👍
@@ReviveMyRide I don't know if you have done the ignition reset - turn ignition to second position - turn fan, radio etc off,, press accelerator to floor, turn ignition off leaving key in place, release accelerator and wait for at least 2 minutes until all whirring cuts off in dashboard go for a run. Seems to reset throttle, gearbox etc made a big difference to my car.
Cheers for the comment! Good to see there are a few of us that are keeping an eye on this on our cars. Sounds like your GL 320 is well looked after! Thanks, Phil
How easy is it to replace the fuel leak off pipes. Mine need replacing and I'm waiting for the new ones to arrive. Is it much of a job or should I get it done by a mechanic?
@captainbimble Always a difficult question to answer because it depends on your skill level and safety net. Skill: If you can do a brakes job, then you should be able to do the leak offs (but of course it will be something new for you). The fittings are easy to break, also once done you should give the engine a run for a while, then turn it off and look for leaks. This can be a bit of a pain but if you leave the cover and foam insulation off, you should be able to see any leaks. Safety net: if you were really, really stuck, is there someone who would help you out as a one off favour? (usually in exchange for some beer 😁friend of a friend). Hope that helps some with your decision! Just to add, if you haven't watched it already, this vid of mine shows removal and refitting of the leak off connections as part of the overall work going on. ruclips.net/video/HV0XCpN76cg/видео.html Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks for the quick reply. I've done things like brake changes before no problem so I think I'll give it a go myself. Will let you know how I get on. Cheers , Lee
@@captainbimble I think you will get on ok! Any questions at all, please just ask and I’ll help if I can! Good luck with it and yes, would be great to hear how you get on with it! 👍
I am unsure whether the beginnings of Black Death are coming from a compromised copper seal or a faulty return diesel fuel line fitting. I haven't removed the injector yet, but the fitting for the diesel return looks bent and possibly has been leaking. Is this a possibility? Any means to rule it out before going further?
Hi, the return line is effectively a diesel leak, so the residue will be oily and never really anything more than that. Black Death however, is burnt combustion gases and will start to form a thick tar like substance, that can even start to go quite hard (Once heated and cooled quite a few times) and thick. I imagine that at the very early stages they look similar but if you are pretty sure there is a problem with the return line, maybe replace that and then continue to monitor it. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks, Phil. I was able to remove the one injector (middle passenger side) that is clearly at fault, but there might also be an issue with the rear passenger side injector (don't know how these are numbered). A slide hammer was required, and I had to cut away part of a nearby engine compartment piece that is not critical. There will definitely not be clearance to remove the rear injector with a slide hammer without major removal of nearby engine components. My model is a 2014 with the OM 642.820 engine, a bit different than the one shown in your video. Any suggestions for removing an injector that will not have clearance for a slide hammer, short of purchasing a hydraulic removal tool?
@@deandel6184 Yes, a couple of ides for you! Sorry, both of these will l be a PITA for you because they involve putting he car back together first! 1) Run the engine until it is pretty warm and then do the work straight away to get access to the back fuel injector. I have had LOTS of comments where people say to do this, the heat softens the black death and often makes it possible to remove the injector without a slide hammer. 2) Ideally done with no.1 above. Back off the screw on the injector retaining clamp by 3-4mm and then run the engine, the combustion pressure "may" push the injector away slightly and once it is on its way, you should have more luck. Turn the engine off, undo the clamp and then use a twisting motion to free up and pull the injector up by hand. Both of the above suggestions are for the more experienced mechanic but you sound pretty handy. However, proceed with caution (especially on option 2 above) and if in any doubt best not to do it. Hope that helps! Phil
Put it all back together and it runs smoothly; will observe to see whether additional black death accumulation occurs. Would not have attempted without your video! Did notice an oily leak coming from the top of a component located at the front of the engine on the left side. It has a hose that runs toward the back of the engine compartment and enters the rear wall. Don't know what the component is, and wondering whether there's a way for me to send an image
![Chino Pacas - Smith (ft. Junior H & Fuerza Regida) [Video Visualizador Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BVK6k56X30Y/mqdefault.jpg)
THIS VID MAY INTEREST YOU! *If you find the dreaded BLACK DEATH, this video will show you how to FIX IT :-) ruclips.net/video/wIHaPlfZI34/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/kpVRJJbARnM/видео.html Here's what I found
This link takes you elsewhere.
@@samedigirl Thanks so much for letting me know! I have amended the link and here it is for you again if you are still interested in watching! ruclips.net/video/HV0XCpN76cg/видео.html
Your guide for removing the different pieces , was a step by step procedure was Brilliant , so helpful 👍
Thanks so much! Really appreciate the comment 👍☺️
Very usefull information. Thanks a bunch.
You're welcome! Glad you liked the vid 👍
Brilliant and informative video. Now I know how to check my 2006 CLK 320 CDI.
Thanks! Good idea to check it because if your are starting to get Black Death, it is much easier to fix if you catch it early (carbon deposits on top of the engine makes it much more difficult and time consuming).
@@ReviveMyRide I've just come in from checking my injectors, luckily they are all very dry and clean. Trying to work out what could be the starting issues? It's a 2006 CLK 320 CDI. Starting from cold takes a good 10 seconds, then blows out smoke from the exhaust for a few seconds. It start straight away once it's been started. I've put a brand new battery in, new glow plugs and a new glow plug relay, still no joy. Trying to work out what it could be? The only fault showing on my cheap code reader is a front 02 sensor, but wouldn't have thought that would cause starting issues. Thanks again for the great video. I have subscribed 🙂
@@Leo-the-lion1974 Hi, actually, my car does this too. My personal view is that it is an old car and the injectors are no longer doing a "mist", more of a "stream" of fuel, which is more difficult to ignite. I don't have much experience with fuel injector cleaning additives, so can't comment / recommend one. Removing and sending the injectors away for cleaning "may" fix the problem. Smoke on start up is unburnt fuel. Since the car doesn't start straight away, the injectors keep giving a squirt but the fuel doesn't get burnt because the engine hasn't started. Eventually it does start and burns off all of the excess fuel within the first 10 secs or so... Thanks for subscribing, great to have you onboard! 😊
Looks like you did a good thorough job for it not to reoccur. Cheers Phil
Thanks Steve, yeah, I was pleased to see that there was no reoccurrence!
Thanks for sharing. How do you bleed the complete fuel system on the Bluetec?
Thanks! I haven't bled the entire fuel system from the tank all of the way to the injectors before, just what you saw in the video. I have found that once you have completed the work that you are doing on the fuel system, if you turn the ignition on (but don't start the car) you will hear the main pump (at the tank) run to prime the system. If you repeat this process a few times, that goes a long way to priming the fuel system. Then, you need to prime the high pressure fuel pump and fuel rail. This can be more tricky and often involved cranking the engine a lot until it eventually starts. Take care not to overheat the starter motor (let it rest some) and be prepared to keep charging the battery but eventually you will get it. Some owners say a full fuel tank (fill it up before you start the work) and jacking up the rear, so the tank is higher also helps. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
It's E10 on mine. I did this check today which was okay when I put penetrant on my glow plugs and changed the fuel filter. When replacing the centre part of the airbox make sure the orange gasket is okay and not deformed. Use silicone spray to lubricate it. Nip up the julibee clip too, not tight, just snug to prevent the inlet plastic cracking when sliding back onto the turbo.
Thanks for sharing your tips! Sounds like you like to stay hands on with your car, which is great! Cheers, Phil
When im doing the service ill obviously check the injectors on both side, see what the situation is ??
Thanks for the heads up and another item to check !!
No probs! Yep, best to check if you are working in that area anyway. If you catch them early, they are really easy to fix.
Did you have to relearn the ecu for the new injectors? Mercedes recommends it and im wondering if i can drive it to them after i put new ones in?
From what I have read, the ECU programming is about optimising the set up of the injectors but the engine will run. Sorry, never tried it though. Also, sorry to send you another link but I found this one really interesting because they were talking about the numbers on the side of the injectors (if it is the same, it is a straight swap with no coding) and on certain engines, they are also plug and play. Seems you need someone with STAR diagnostics and I imaging it would be possible to get someone mobile that will come to you. Hope that helps some! forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/c220-cdi-injector-flow-rate-markings.157434/ Thanks, Phil
Thanks for the attention to detail. Great video!
Thanks! I see you have watched both vids. I produced the 2nd one 2yrs after my initial fix, to show that the "fix" was still working. Also I have hopefully improved lighting, video quality etc... 👍
Both the videos give excellent information. Thank you.
In your list of tools I notice that in this video the slide hammer is a cheaper one and less comprehensive than the first. Just as good as each other for this job?
Also I was wondering the pros and cons of taking all the injectors out and servicing them, ultrasonic cleaning etc. Any views or just do the bare necessity? Many thanks.
Hi @johncochrane544 Thanks for the great questions! Slide Hammers: The problem is that Amazon sellers delist items so frequently that I often have to check my links and put a new tool in. So, the link from the first video "may" be the actual tool I used. Later one probably not but the key thing is, it needs to have the right adaptor and thread size to go onto the injector. So, as it is a tool that you won't use very often, unless the reviews are awful (and they shouldn't be if I have linked to them!) I would go with the cheapest tool that will do the job. Injector cleaning: Our cars are getting old now and the injectors probably aren't doing the nice spray pattern that they used to do: Evidence is lots of smoke during heavy acceleration (unburnt diesel) and probably loss of power and economy. The injectors almost certainly will just keep going but if the car is a long term keeper for you and the prices aren't too extortionate, then injector cleaning could be a good idea! Caveat: I have never sent injectors away myself, I just changed all of the injector seat seals as shown in the video. Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Many thanks for your reply. Fortunately it appears I was jumping the gun and fearing the worse as I could see some black stuff around the soundproofing. After removing air filters etc it turned out to be oil from the small pipe just before turbo. The car failed its mot on emissions and the garage replaced the fuel filter and filled it with injector cleaner to clean injectors and duly passed on retest which is why I was thinking of taking them all out and cleaning them. I also fancied an ultrasonic but that will now have to wait as I will just use some diesel purge next time my tank is low.
@@johncochrane544 makes sense! I’m not sure I would fancy taking the injectors out unless I was sure it was required. I’ve heard the additives can do a pretty good job. 👍
@@ReviveMyRide I don't know if you have done the ignition reset - turn ignition to second position - turn fan, radio etc off,, press accelerator to floor, turn ignition off leaving key in place, release accelerator and wait for at least 2 minutes until all whirring cuts off in dashboard go for a run. Seems to reset throttle, gearbox etc made a big difference to my car.
@@johncochrane544 I’ve heard about this before but never tried it. Sounds really interesting and easy to do! Will have to give it a try… 👍
Great info…I do check my GL 320 ..
Cheers for the comment! Good to see there are a few of us that are keeping an eye on this on our cars. Sounds like your GL 320 is well looked after! Thanks, Phil
Just leave foam covers off then you can inspect it anytime you want all theyre there for is a little bit of noise suppression
That's a really good tip! I never thought about leaving them off. Thanks for sharing 👍
How easy is it to replace the fuel leak off pipes. Mine need replacing and I'm waiting for the new ones to arrive. Is it much of a job or should I get it done by a mechanic?
@captainbimble Always a difficult question to answer because it depends on your skill level and safety net. Skill: If you can do a brakes job, then you should be able to do the leak offs (but of course it will be something new for you). The fittings are easy to break, also once done you should give the engine a run for a while, then turn it off and look for leaks. This can be a bit of a pain but if you leave the cover and foam insulation off, you should be able to see any leaks. Safety net: if you were really, really stuck, is there someone who would help you out as a one off favour? (usually in exchange for some beer 😁friend of a friend). Hope that helps some with your decision! Just to add, if you haven't watched it already, this vid of mine shows removal and refitting of the leak off connections as part of the overall work going on. ruclips.net/video/HV0XCpN76cg/видео.html Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks for the quick reply. I've done things like brake changes before no problem so I think I'll give it a go myself. Will let you know how I get on. Cheers , Lee
@@captainbimble I think you will get on ok! Any questions at all, please just ask and I’ll help if I can! Good luck with it and yes, would be great to hear how you get on with it! 👍
I am unsure whether the beginnings of Black Death are coming from a compromised copper seal or a faulty return diesel fuel line fitting. I haven't removed the injector yet, but the fitting for the diesel return looks bent and possibly has been leaking.
Is this a possibility? Any means to rule it out before going further?
Hi, the return line is effectively a diesel leak, so the residue will be oily and never really anything more than that. Black Death however, is burnt combustion gases and will start to form a thick tar like substance, that can even start to go quite hard (Once heated and cooled quite a few times) and thick. I imagine that at the very early stages they look similar but if you are pretty sure there is a problem with the return line, maybe replace that and then continue to monitor it. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks, Phil. I was able to remove the one injector (middle passenger side) that is clearly at fault, but there might also be an issue with the rear passenger side injector (don't know how these are numbered). A slide hammer was required, and I had to cut away part of a nearby engine compartment piece that is not critical. There will definitely not be clearance to remove the rear injector with a slide hammer without major removal of nearby engine components. My model is a 2014 with the OM 642.820 engine, a bit different than the one shown in your video.
Any suggestions for removing an injector that will not have clearance for a slide hammer, short of purchasing a hydraulic removal tool?
@@deandel6184 Yes, a couple of ides for you! Sorry, both of these will l be a PITA for you because they involve putting he car back together first! 1) Run the engine until it is pretty warm and then do the work straight away to get access to the back fuel injector. I have had LOTS of comments where people say to do this, the heat softens the black death and often makes it possible to remove the injector without a slide hammer. 2) Ideally done with no.1 above. Back off the screw on the injector retaining clamp by 3-4mm and then run the engine, the combustion pressure "may" push the injector away slightly and once it is on its way, you should have more luck. Turn the engine off, undo the clamp and then use a twisting motion to free up and pull the injector up by hand. Both of the above suggestions are for the more experienced mechanic but you sound pretty handy. However, proceed with caution (especially on option 2 above) and if in any doubt best not to do it. Hope that helps! Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Great ideas! Will let you know ...
Thanks so much.
Put it all back together and it runs smoothly; will observe to see whether additional black death accumulation occurs. Would not have attempted without your video!
Did notice an oily leak coming from the top of a component located at the front of the engine on the left side. It has a hose that runs toward the back of the engine compartment and enters the rear wall. Don't know what the component is, and wondering whether there's a way for me to send an image
make a video about fuel injectors flow test...
Thanks, that's a good idea! A flow test and injector clean might be a good idea for my CLK 👍
Hello Phil do you have an email. I would like to send you video of my 0M642 making adapting noise? trying to find out what it may be?
Hi, please go ahead! The easiest way may be for you to upload it to RUclips and then send me the link. My email is: Revive.Ride@Gmail.com Thanks, Phil
I used to love diesel engines.
It’s not the end of the world, very good engine apart from this issue…
@@ReviveMyRide I wasn't just referring to this engine.