Mercedes OM642 3.0L TurboDiesel V6 Teardown. This is Exactly How NOT To Treat Your Car!
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- If this is the first teardown you are finding, there are over 20 others I've done! Lots of LS's, A viper engine, rx8 rotary, and a couple SRT8 Hemi's to name a few. Check them out here • Blown Up Engine Tear D...
My name is Eric and I own and run a full service auto salvage business called Importapart located in the Saint Louis MO area. Part of our model is dismantling and selling parts from rare and niche market engines. If you're interested in buying parts from other engines I've torn down, email us at Importapartsales@gmail.com.
In this video, I tear down a Mercedes OM642 3.0L DOHC Turbodiesel V6. This engine comes in a ton of Mercedes models starting in the mid 2000's and even Sprinter vans, Jeep Grand Cherokee, and the Chrysler 300 in different parts of the world. This was the very first OM642 I've torn down and let me tell you, this engine tested my patience. Between not being able to use air and the condition of this particular engine, I didn't have as much fun as I normally do. I'll remember this teardown for ever. Now I just need to figure out how to clean all of this up.
As always, I appreciate all the comments, suggestions and event criticism on my videos. Thanks for watching and I'll catch you on the next one!
-Eric
You can say you have a like new, barely used oil fill cap.
and matching drain plug
New Old Stock!!!
Lol
and then some
Dipstick used once.
i have this same engine on my 2014 ML350 with 100K with zero issues. Love the torque and smoothness. The best car engine I have ever experienced. I change oil every 5K and use engine flush on every oil change. Every 25K miles I use two or three cheap engine oil changes to stop the oil change color (to black) as soon as you pore it in. Expensive Liqui Moly low ash oil is an absolute must for these engines. Every 50K miles - change fuel filter, engine air filer, PVC valve, few critical O rings and you are golden. Clearly this engine is not for 15K oil change type of folks. If you love to take care of your car, this engine will last forever. 500K in Sprinters is very common.
Hey I just did all the filters (L&R engine air, cabin air, fuel, oil), turbo inlet gasket, and a deep clean of the engine bay. I didn't do the PCV. I used Mobil 1 ESP since it meets 229.52 and might do another change after 5k (I think the interval was 7.5k or 10k previously) to get everything cleaned up in there. The dealership wants a small fortune for this kind of maintenance.
Which engine flush do you use and how long do you let it run in the engine?
@@LuckyChow LiquiMoly. 10 mins at idle. As per instructions.
It never fails to amaze me that people spend this kind of money on a car then neglect it like this.
@Scott Duffy That is a bullshit argument. Since when are you forced to go to a dealer for an oil change? Places like Jiffy Lube have the proper filters and oil to do simple services like oil changes on most brands sold in this country. I am a retired Euro- junk tech and can't tell how many times I heard shit like "I am too busy, or my car can go "X" miles on an oil service" or my favorite , " My Grandfather never changed his oil and his car lasted bullshit number of miles" Stupidity must be bliss now and that is why we have so many happy dumb asses around. OK with me I made a shitload of money off these clowns.
@@klesmer It takes a special kind of clown to insult the folks that pay you to do work.
Anyone that can afford to buy a car like this can afford to pay for services. It just goes to show you can have money and still be brainless.
@@buckstarchaser2376 klesmer is 100% correct. In my line of work I've done projects for many uber wealthy clients and it never ceases to amaze me the lack of common sense and high level of self-rightousness many of them have. I've literally walked away many times shaking my head wondering how they managed to get where they are. I have a long list of recognizable names that I wouldn't deem sharp enough to cross the street without having someone hold their hand and look both ways for them.
@@buckstarchaser2376 He isn't wrong. It is amazing how easy it is to change engine oil responsibly and cheap, hell I realistically in the future will do my oil changes by myself given the opportunity. Even the minimum amount of oil changes means the world to engine lifespan.
The example in the video is of people who don't even do that and run their car for months even years without an oil change. How can you defend against a specialist in the field, just because he is pointing out the obvious rather bluntly?
I have one of these engines in my Merc. I try and change the oil every 5000 miles. My mates are all like 'why do you bother doing it so frequently?' I will show them this video.
Thanks for this channel, it's great stuff!
Even sooner bruh
3000 miles ( 5000 km ) .
Factory recommendation is 16,000 km
@@davidzwicker9988 Don't fight us Dave . Every 5000kms if you want to see high kms from this engine .
At $160 per oil change, 5k miles sounds ok to me@@stewatparkpark2933
I had this engine in my 300c in Australia. Absolutely loved it. Economical to run 7 lt per 100 km, amazing torque. No maintenance issues.
@Ian Leckie How often did you get the oil changed?
Some folks recommending half the prescribed miles/kms, but that sounds pretty costly to me...🤔
@@comanchio1976 Every 5000 km is best .
@@comanchio1976 read the factory manual to be sure but a pretty safe range for most engines is anywhere from 3000-5000 miles
i have this engine in my grand Cherokee 11.7L/100km on highway. 15l/100km in town :(
@@emmettkeyser1110 well 90k miles is too much, overally these engines want to have a fairly new oil....problems occur when oil isn't changed.......I change every year to keep it going good as it has been suggested to me
29:30 the acoustic pads do make a difference. Most likely it’s there to help comply with drive-by ambient noise regulations in Europe as well as prevent certain frequencies from rattling other stuff nearby, or reduce the amount of diesel rattle from being amplified as it comes out of the bottom of the engine bay. Even the diesel fiesta in the UK have extra engine bay cladding to dampen the noise
That breaker bar almost met its match!
I know, that was insane! Like as if MB tried to use contact cement or superglue on the threads of the crank bolt
Aside from learning so much about these engines from this great host, I find the tear downs rather therapeutic. Thank you young man!
Those M-Series are made under contract for Mercedes in Alabama.
I am more impressed that this engine actual ran until the oil turned to pudding.
diesel engines are bulletproof like that and can take punishment that gasolines cannot take. that is why most commercial vehicles are diesels plus they produce serious amounts of torque
Mercedes makes very durable engines!!! An oil flush could have rescued this car one oil change before it died.
@@monunyabidness5949 Once it's this fouled, trying to flush it would clog up all the oil passages and pick-ups. You shouldn't rely on flush products, instead just change your damn oil religiously.
@@monunyabidness5949 that's a dubious proposition, moreso after 2015, given how their automotive engines are manufactured vs HD diesels. You don't have cylinder sleeves after 2015 (they use plasma arc coating instead) and the engine block and head is all cast aluminum.
What a great torn down video!. I have this same OM642 on my 2007 JEEP Commander CRD (made in Austria), with the swirl motor delete due to it's prone to fail (goes to limp mode) because of the oil leaking turbo admission pipe. I change the oil (10 qts.) every 10.000 km. (about 6.000 miles) with good Mobil 1 or Castrol 0w40 (European formula).
Now reaching 300.000 km. (about 186.000 miles).
You give me the chance to see the engine from a different perspective!.
Thank you !
@@vehicleinsanity52 maybe it varies. On my 2011 ML350 it is 8.0L (8.5qt)
no oil cooler leaks? mine is leaking now. need to take the air intakes off. A nice weekend job
@@vehicleinsanity52, mine with 10 qts. gets to the top of the oil stick...also the manual sais so
@@holoduke51a, I did it as a prevention due to the high mileage. Has to stop it a lot for a turbo change and exhaust manifold leak...mechanic working on that now
I love seeing these german engine teardowns! One engine I'd love to see torn down is the VW 5 cylinder 07K engine. And in fact, if you tear one down with a good AC compressor i might just have to buy it.
Yes!!!
I second that
Might want to swap your profile pic to kson
The flaps on the intake runners are similar to a variable length intake manifold design. By opening and closing the flaps, they adjust the swirl going into the intake ports, one position is better for high power, one is better for low end torque. It can also be used to control the pathway/flow for EGR depending on the engine.
The swirl motors are very common for failing on these as well. At least in. The WK Jeep variant, the CCV system separator inevitably becomes ineffective allowing raw oil into the intake tube at the turbo where it leaks into the turbo valley and soaks the swirl motor causing it's eventual failure.
@@t-yoonit Change the orange seal on the turbo yearly, that's the secret from my experience. Also, change the PCV valve and it's camshaft connector seal every 40-50k km and the issue with the flaps getting stuck is eliminated. No oil in the intake = less sticky stuff for the EGR soot to cling onto (and also less oil dripping on the flaps motor).
Sounds like a good way to get a run-away engine.
Did you eat your meat? HOW CAN YOU HAVE ANY PUDDING IF YOU DON'T EAT YOUR MEAT. 😎
Great teardown videos 😊
♪♫ we don't need no oil changes... ♪♫ we don't change the filters too...♪♫
@@billharris3650 🎶All in all, it's just another quart in the sump🎶
@@allenl9031 We don't need no sludge control...
You know, it wasn't until recently that I found out "Pink" was actually some guy's name, lol...
@@Backroad_Junkie Yes, but which one’s Pink?
The actuator is a variable length intake manifold,M.B. started using them on the 1st v-6 engines. I was a Master MB tech for 20 years, loved the OM617,602 and 603 motors,the ones after those started getting ridiculously complicated, so I got out of the car biz and switched to semiconductor manufacturing,best decision I ever made.Also the head bolts are torque to yield and a real fight to get loose. Not surprised you cut your hand, MB never breaks sharp edges, if you ever have to pull a back seat out,be careful, like grabbing a handful of razor blades. Great videos, love your channel.
What do you think of the OM606 engines?
How do you change from Mercedes Master tech to semiconductor manufacturing? 😮 Men has only one life and education takes time so Propst to you
At first I wondered how this video could be 38 minutes long. It all makes sense now. This is the content right here
Love your comments while tearing down engines. You have a personality that I can tell is good for this platform!!
The flaps induce turbulent flow. Since diesels use direct injection, the air needs to be turbulent so it "spins" inside the cylinder as it compresses. This is supposed to promote fuel mixing for a cleaner burn. That's also the point of the cups in the pistons.
Do you remember that “tornado air intake fuel saver system “ it was like a stationary propeller that you would stick into your engines intake and it would essentially spin the air for better fuel mileage, I had one in my b16 vetc hatchback and I was faster than other similar cars just the air “i would think “ would enter the engine more efficiently kinda like spinning water inside a water bottle to empty it faster , wish I would of kept it when I sold the car
@@jettyeddie_m9130 But you cant use those in turbo based engines, as the suction of turbo's and esp on a bi-turbo can be so immense it will tear all the peaces of plastic from the impellor inside of it and your done.
I think in some fiat engines the length of an intake is also changed during swirl flaps operation. Am I right?
VW tdi motors have a problem with the intake flap system failing, but they usually warranty repair it, unlike the cheap bastards at Audi.
@Jetty Eddie
Anyone who has done an objective review on those things has come to the same conclusion, they are worthless even in the best circumstances. In many cases they actually reduce power and fuel economy.
Just got a job in the parts department at my local MB dealership, been watching these engine teardowns to familiarize myself with some of the parts. Many thanks!
I own a w164 with OM642 engine for 3 years and have not had to replace anything in the engine except for two idle pulleys and alternator pulley. If you take care and use these cars to cover some miles not to get the groceries these are pretty reliable. The one you tore down I am sure the owner didnt know the car had an internal combustiom engine but thought he had an EV.
Soon you have to change fuel injector copper washers and ream injector hole bottoms
08 w164 and 08 x164 here. 350000km for w164 and 200000 for x164.
Original dpf
Only replaced
1. Oil cooler seal
2. Idler pulley
3. Alternator pulley
4. Injector seals
5. Glow plug module
6. Air suspension for x164
Except air suspension those cost me less than 1000 bucks for materials. Air suspension i replaced with life time warranty. Not mechanic but i do my own car maintance. This engine is good. Happy to have this car.
@@juhomaki-petaja I have 2016 Sprinter with this engine. Original engine had 680 000 miles before I had to replace it. I had no major problems with it. Just regular maintenance.
Wow, a whole 3 years... That's more than enough experience with an engine to have an opinion. Ive had an FRS for 8 years and not replaced any non maintenance parts. And its a poopy Subaru engine....
@@juhomaki-petaja Injectors are dry as a bone so no black death. Its much better on the om642 engine rather than the om646 which I had in my previous car and I had all injector copper washers replaced.
The benz diesels all had this issue, especially the heavier duty MLs. I was SO CLOSE to buying one with a bad engine until I talked to a rebuilder. He clued me in to the fact that these motors are designed to run so hot (note the oil pan diaper) that they cook the oil. They had something like 11 oil spec changes in the first few years of operation (while most motors were still in warranty). The turbo and the design just cook the light ends out of the oil leaving that thick black sludge behind. I'm willing to bet serious money that this motor had pretty regular oil changes (probably at a dealer). This type of failure was seen in vehicles as early as 80k miles.
That's rubbish. I've got one like this and it's perfectly clean inside after 200k miles. This has never seen an oil change.
@@demonbox666 in just going by what the rebuilder said. Many cars like this died while being maintained routinely by dealers
@@hybridorbital85 thing is they don't run that hot, they have 76°C thermostat and EGR cooled combustion for NOx suppression. More likely culprit would be extending already insane 20k miles long life oil change intervals, commercial vehicle owners are known for this because they want to save money and minimise downtime or using cheaper underspec oil.
If that’s the case, then one wants to use synthetic oil, change it frequently, and then dose with MMO just prior to changes?
@@dennisyoung4631 these should run on synthetic 5W30 in most climates unless used in very hot conditions then 10W40 or even 15W40. I wouldn't go more then 10k on one oil change.
They need to show this video in auto shops in high school. Even people who don’t know anything about engines can see that’s just wrong. Good PSA for oil changes.
I have taken apart Chevrolet small blocks back in the 80s in high school shop that had a lot of sludge. It really tended to collect in the oil drains in the heads. But nothing like this! This is the worst sludge I've ever seen anywhere.
@@JimBronson Likewise. That is incredibly disgusting, both the neglect and its result.
I own a 93 Mercedes’ 300d it has 208,500 miles. I pulled the motor out to rebuild because the head had to go to a machinist and it really needed just a overall freshen up the car sat for 11 years in a garage it leaked from about every gasket on the motor. But even when I was rebuilding the motor it wasn’t this sludgey it was really clean and the rod bearing were all mint same with the cam bearings. It just shows if you take care of a Mercedes diesel they are really good motors. Hoping to get the head back soon and get the motor back in.
Well that was a first for me. I've never been nauseated watching an engine teardown until now. Good job though.
Just imagine what that goop must smell like - mmmmmm slap it on your toast - beter than vegemite !
I was gagging from the my thoughts on what the burnt sludged up oil smelled like. I'm surprised how good the cooling system looked
This my favorite culinary channel.
I have ML280 2007 (less hp than 320) with almost 400k km in it. It runs smoothly, quiet and looks clean. I maintain it by the book. My goal is to hit at least 800k with it. 🙃
Nice video btw.
not the strongest engine but i think 800k is possible with good maintenance
by the book - you mean oil service interval every 25 k mls ? :)
I've got 2 of these engine in jeeps
An 07 and an 08. Once deleted and tuned they are one of the best SUVs out there! Incredible ifs running 6 bolt mains! And has a deep crank centerline. Similar to the old FE engines!
Yep, 08 Grand Cherokee Laredo CRD owner here. I axle swapped mine to 3.08 gears front and rear. Awesome Suv.
07 owner here!
Do you delete the EGR system or just the downpipe and tune out the EGR?
@@kennethwest780 tuning us all that's required for egr side of things. It does stay open about 5%. It's really insignificant at that point.
Holy sheet! It was like hopping 70 years into the future to Keith Richards autopsy. It would be interesting to know how many miles to engine gave before it died of abuse.
Keef embalmed himself years ago....
LOL!!
I'd say way under 100k. Never had an oil change, just oil added until it went poof.
I don't know why it's so therapeutic watching you tear down broken motors, but it's my new favorite thing.
I did an ej253, check out my other videos!
I don't know why I love these teardowns! I'm not a mechanic. Oh well! Thanks!
I think these teardowns make a lot of us GLAD we're not mechanics!
Most of the engines fail due to some lubrication issue - would really like to see you open the oil pumps to see the internal damage.
Thanks for doing this - super educational!
“I don’t know how difficult this is gonna be”
Fourty minute video runtime WITH some work pre-done says you probably found out. Rip. I hate the smell of used diesel lubricant and diesel fuel. Thanks for doing this so I didn’t have to. You should send a bottle of that sludge to Blackstone for the lulz.
They would open the package and then put me on a block list 😂
Want worse than used diesel lubricant and diesel fuel? Try high time turbines, never did get the smell out of those coveralls after a week of breaking down and canning J 79's to send back to GE.
@@I_Do_Cars Dewit.
This engine has been used in UK Emergency ambulances ( Sprinters). They are quite incredible , many covered 500.000 miles before being retired. Even then they can go on to do over a million miles if cared for no problem
Never seen an oil change done with a spoon and plate before another brilliant video take care keep safe
It is the close up that u are providing us that helps. Thanks a lot. I now can put my OM642 together after a crankshaft replacement.
Love these videos and note a number of the engines have failed due to lack of maintenance. I’m in 🇬🇧 and almost everyone I know sticks to manufacture oil change intervals most of which are 20k miles. My M5 gets oil/filter ever 5k miles, my wife’s Kia Sorrento every 10k or year rather than manufacture 20k or 2 years 😱and my diesel Ford Focus which I use as a driving instructor gets changed every 5k. It doesn’t cost the earth.
When my M5 was in a few months ago the dealer had an X5 in which was 3 years old with 60k+ which had NEVER been service. What was worse was that it had been supplied with BMW 5 year service plan. The owner could not be bothered to get it serviced.
Fascinating video 👍 I own an E-Class with the same OM642 engine but thanks to very regular maintenance it still runs as sweet as a nut after 106k miles, like a Swiss watch as they say. Seeing the results of neglect on the engine in this video will give me sleepless nights!!
If you drive a lot in the city, half your oil change interval. I know a guy with one of these, and were pour a bottle of seafoam into the engine and give it a good hard run before we dump the oil. He does mostly highway with his, so it's not bad. Very few issues.
@@ng-ht1vx that's true, I mainly change mine once every year cause it's been said that this engine likes new oil and problems occur when oil isn't changed.
You shall have bestowed upon you the title of "Gladiator", after such an epic battle, you deserve it, that was unreasonable at best.
I haven't figured out yet whether I love your stuff more for the mechanical aspect, or for your whit and whimsy, you are a funny guy!
Heh - I riffed on the "Gladiator" theme in my own comment before seeing yours. I guess a little blood must be spilled for our entertainment.
As a mercedes mechanic i can say that the OM 642 is pretty indestructible when good maintained.
Actually any mercedes engines are good besides the Renault ones and the OM 656 Straight six and OM 654 straigt four engines.
Edit while watching:
Do not lay down those diesel injectors.
They Absolutely MUST be stored in a standing position. If not it will be pretty impossible to bleed the air out. If you plan to reuse them.
Om642 is absolutely the worst engine I’ve ever worked on. And the most unreliable.
@@jaymc1244 i have 500K miles almost on my 2019 Sprinter. Only changed water pump and serpentine belt and oil changes. Original turbo and original injectors. The most unrealible? Really?
@@dariodjakovic1600 Do you run B20, or try to avoid it?
@@jaymc1244 чушь пишешь, нига
@rust_hunter_7867 why are new desiels bad? what's wrong with 654/656? Is new petrol straight 6 any good?
I love to see you take apart these engines, you do a really good job telling what failure points to look for.
When this engine is cared for it purrs like a kitten, barely sips fuel, and has loads of torque. Intake side and dpf do need cleaning every now and then, but it’s worth it. Love these.
Send the "oil" to testing labs just to see what they can tell! Also falling chunks of sludge made my day.
Nice work! I really enjoy these tear-downs. Very instructive, great learning experience. I'm stunned that people just refuse to change their oil.
Your videos are underrated, I always enjoy watching!
Don't worry about the missing turbo as the bearings on that will have been completely trashed given the state of the oil (if we can actually call it that).
As for inside of that block, it's like something out of a sci-fi movie where some alien black slime has invaded everything. I would not have believed it possible that an engine could ever work at all with all that gunk. It must have been several tens of thousands of miles since that engine had an oil change.
Absolutely riveting. A long video that went by quickly due to the highly entertaining content. Bravo young man. Bravo!
You have a wonderfully positive attitude in the face of the disappointments you find in these engines.
Eric: "I gotta get this engine apart."
Engine: "The f$%k you will."
Very interesting, that's in the top 5 worse sludge filled engine I've seen. It looks like some filled with Vegemite or Flex Seal.
Engine: "Hold my sludge"
Bovríl or MárMíté. Moré Liké
Looks like crater grease to me.
"Top five"
Do I even want to know about the other four?
Looked like 8 quarts of moly grease to me
We just rebuilt the 3.0L in a friend's R320. It didn't have any kind of sludge, and although the EGR had some crust in it, it was nowhere as bad as this. The #3 main spun ever so lightly, but the engine was as seized as the one you were messing with. Matter-of-fact, the part number on the bearing was still very much legible. Of all the engines we've rebuilt, this one is the first one we had to take a torch, hammer and chisel to get the bearing off the crank to have it ground. Rumor has it that the #3 main spinning and seizing is quite common, according to the shop that align-honed the block.
Another Saturday night with my engine teardown fam.
An old employer of mine justified the ignoring of oil changes on his truck because "diesel is the same as oil, you don't really have to bother changing it". Now I know what the inside of his engine looked like. Thanks for the tour.
It's scary there are people with thought processes and knowledge levels like that actually out there. Possibly in the lane next to you. Or doing a job where you need to rely on them.
Dang, I’m getting my oil changed early first thing Monday. Yikes. Love these tear down videos. Cheers ✌️🍺
May this video serves as a PSA for all students in driver's ed that regular maintenance is a part of driving.
I always wrapped a rag around the head gasket to keep from slicing my hand open. Love all of your videos.
Really interesting teardown. Very impressive how much chocolate fudge an OM642 can hold. As someone who's sliced fingers and hands on head gaskets, I feel your pain
As a MB dealer tech I have spent many hours over these engines. Wobble e-torx sockets became my best friend 😆. I’ve seen these engines sludge up on multiple occasions, usually boils down to lack of maintenance, or aftermarket places using the wrong oil.
What's the best oil to run to clean it up/keep it clean?
Mercedes recommends their own special oil or Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 Synthetic. Should meet MB standard MB 229.52 which is geared to minimize bad exhaust emissions. Oil change is 12.5 quarts of oil and a new filter. Can be DIY very easily.
Great tear down video! Nothing on a diesel "just comes off". 16:25
when people's PRIORITY is their PUBLIC IMAGE, nails, haircut, jewellery....... WHY WOULD THEY spend money on invisible maintenance on car??????
Would love to see an updated video on how clean you were able to get these parts
Maybe a future video, I don’t know how we are going to do that
@@I_Do_Cars throw them in a tub with 10 gallons of engine degreaser and pray?
Just sink them in fuel oil (or farm diesel, which you use in tractors etc.) and let them bath there for a week or two. On a working engine you can do engine flush with fuel oil before oil change and it definitely washes old deposit and sludge away.
@@I_Do_Cars Trans fluid?
@@I_Do_Cars Exorcism?
I've got one of these but I lost the whole EGR system and DPF. Also the mapping got lost so it doesn't throw any codes. I'm so forgetful in my advancing years.
Ok, that was far and away the nastiest tear down of all time. Dis freakin' gusting!
I have to wonder if whomever supplied that engine is now kicked back with the crew with a case of beer watching this video and laughing their asses off :D
Likely so!
It looks like someone serviced this car against the instructions and put mineral oil in it. MB diesels require a special low soot engine oil and of course, oil changes at minimum the service intervals.
@@dingdong2103 That’s a decent possibility. All these common rail diesels need specific oil. The older PD Volkswagen diesels would shit themselves if you used the wrong oil.
@@dingdong2103 more like filled it with roof tar
I've got this same exact motor! 14 ml350 Bluetec. The issue with these motors is Mercedes recommends 5w30 oil, in a diesel motor! And 10k mile oil changes. I uses 5w40 Rotella and change every 5k. 172k miles no issues.
I think 0 or 5W-30 is fine if you just change it every 5K.
@ericfranke1637 🤷♂️ i sold it at 200k miles. It had no issues, just felt it was time for a new owner
I really like your ads over most of the ones on YT. Keep up the shameless plugs, interesting to see what you have in stock!
I have one of these in my Sprinter van and the factory recommended interval is 30,000 kms, which is just insane. I change it at half the interval and still feel like that is long. I would not be surprised if this person actually followed the interval and this is what a high mileage one looks like.
you deserve a medal just for that teardown alone !
I have an E320 Bluetec and it was good to see the tear-down of the engine. Mine holds 9 qts of oil and I hope it doesn't look like that on the inside. I have 245k miles on it.
I look forward to your videos every Saturday night
My buddy owns a small garage, and he told me about the time he pulled an oil drainplug, and NOTHING came out. (According to the customer, he was "overdue" for his oil change.) He dropped the oil pan and scraped the "oil" out with a putty knife! I think he refilled it with waste oil, added an oil flush, and ran the motor in order to clean it out better, then drained it again to change the oil and filter.
These companies that think their engines can run for 10's of thousands of miles between oil changes are crazy!!
Change your oil my friends, It's cheap insurance.
Foe every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. In this case, the engine has likely run for 200,000+ miles without an oil change, with most internal parts not badly worn. That is proof that you CAN run long intervals between oil changes. However, I do not advocate that as a modus operandi, but there's also no need to panic and change oil every 5000. There are plenty of oil studies done which prove replenishing 1/3 of your oil periodically will keep the oil in spec.
@@einfelder8262 1st of all to "replenish" 1/3rd you'd have to drain out 1/3rd, unless the car burns a LOT of oil, 2nd is yea, the additive package would get a boost but your not removing any crap suspended in the oil or what settles to the pan bottom, we have no idea if this engine went 200,000 with the same oil but in any event the crank was shot as was every bearing in the thing, severely worn and now it would have to come out for replacement or rebuild. I still change mine every 2500, why?, I'm only driving 2.5 miles to work and back, engine rarely gets to full operational temps and the GM oil life monitor also says it's worn out at that point.
@@barryaiello3127 Well, we it didn't only go 15,000 miles. How? Just a guess. In your case you should be riding a bicycle to work, instead of polluting the earth with cold engine running and in all reality wasting oil. I'm glad you pointed out that 1/3 would need to be drained, else I would have oil running out of the top of the engine. I also didn't bother to say a filter change is needed with a 1/3 oil change, figured that would be obvious. That's how automatic transmissions last forever - change 1/3 oil and filter at 20,000 miles.
@@einfelder8262 I have an electric bike I ride all over, did 475 miles on it last year alone, problem with driving it to work is here in FL the afternoon brings vicious thunderstorms almost every day.
People who never change their oil dont deserve a drivers license.
This applies to transmission fluid aswell.
I've been waiting anxiously for this one. I have a Sprinter with this engine. Pretty sure my internals look better.
The oil had been changed alright...changed back into primordial crude 😂 that was epic! I love my 7.3 more with each emissions-teardown I see.
Google "La Breah Tar Pits"
I thought my 1997 Toyota Coaster 3B engine was dirty! It only had 519 thousand Ks on the clock, it dropped a pre-combustion chamber less than 2000ks after I bought it and destroyed what was indeed a very good engine. But this one really takes the cake! I have worked on diesel engines, Cat, Lister, Leyland, screaming Jimmys to name a few and have never seen anything like this one Eric, thanks for sharing this for us. Ted from down under.
The "throttle body" is a shut off valve when they turn the engine off to prevent the dieseling of a normal shut down
It's also for (or probably mainly used for) EGR producing a slight vacuum in the intake when the EGR is operating.
That is quite a teardown! My neighbor has a Mercedes, it looks like an older car and with a gasoline engine. Your teardowns give me the impression that the Mercedes engines are truly special.
Two sound effects would be nice: One to indicate, sell-able the other to indicate scrap/trash.
Great input
Hi Eric, Im Chris from Scotland, I just found your video and wanted to thank you for taking the time to invest in making the video, I have a weird oil leak at the front of my ML280 W164, but it seems to be coming from the behind the EGR intake pipe and your video on the strip down has helped. because it shows the stripping down of the front of the engine components. it is not from the oil cooler as I already dealt with that. as my serpentine belt shredded and the shreds got behind it and destroyed the Crankshaft Oil seal by getting in there. If you think it was hard betting the Crankshaft Nut off in the workshop you can imagine how hard it was getting it off with the engine in the car LOL best wishes for 2023 🙂
the smell when taking off those main caps on a diesel always knocks me over. its kind of like coffee thats been brewing on the stove for a month
oo oo that smell. Can't you smell that smell
Like the smell of my old mans Navy uniforms after a 6 month deployment.
642s are HARD to kill fr.
Its one of the most reliable and long lasting Mercedes Diesels its a shame they discontinued it honestly.
Look forward to your videos every week! Keep up the great work post more often!
FYI: to anyone reading this comment, WD-40 is a great option for cleaning up any super gunked up car parts. if you're interested in why, the WD-40 actually mixes with the (oil based) gunk and decreases the viscosity (ie: makes it more liquid) so that you can better clean whatever you are working on. It would have been very satisfying to see these heads saturated in some WD-40.... Love the channel btw!
I have seen some of your videos. I was so impressed that I subbed. Very good teardowns and descriptions of what you find. Keep up the great work. When I seen that breaker bar flex I thought man, this guy is going to eat concrete.
This engine needs to have oil changed every 5k miles. It was great to see this tear down and see an example of what not to do in terms of maintenance
Nice work, I enjoy your tear down videos and your well informed commentary. I have come to the conclusion that modern engines start as a good idea, but then, because of emission regulations and trying to squeeze out every last bit of power, the good idea turns to crap and they become over complicated, unreliable and basically unserviceable piles of crap. The would end up costing more to repair than to replace or scrap, which is sort of anti-environmentally friendly.
Not only the second time I have seen IDC show his swift adeptness with a slide hammer, but also about the coolest real-time demo of the law of the lever I think I have ever witnessed.
FYI don't use an extention when you have tight bolts, you loose uga duga power with every joint.
That and his lightweight chrome sockets. Weighted sockets would take bolts out with half the effort.
I’m trying for the record on oil change intervals myself. I’m currently at over 325,000 miles on Rotella T6 with OEM filter and bypass filtration changes avery 20,000 miles on a 1.87 million mile Cat C13.
No sludge, though. Just had to replace one injector (electrically failed) and all engine harnesses (oil intrusion), and inside the head was spotless.
Don't bin those intakes! Clean them really good and resell them. They are extremely valuable.
Edit 1: Those flaps in there are called the swirl flaps. They do get deleted most of the time in areas that don't have testing.
Edit 2: you didn't pull the oil cooler in the valley, those are well known to seep coolant into the oil and make that Jello you're finding. You can tell if it was ever services by the color of the orings in the bottom. Orange is OEM, blue or purple are for the fixed ones.
id say bin everything mercedes lol
After all that abuse and oil starvation, that crankshaft is still usable after cleaning and polishing. Mercedes diesel crankshafts are legendary, virtually indestructible
The om642s are just average engines. I would like to see one OM613 or OM648 straight 6s teardown videos. Hands down one of the best Direct injected diesels that mercedes have made. They dont have as much problems as om642. 2010+ year om642 problems are: Oil cooler seals (can lead to crankbearing damage), Streched chain, PCV, failing NOx and temp sensore, VGT mechanism, dozen of adblue related stuff etc. Om648 common problems when they reach high-mileage are just turbo,injectors, flaps and motormounts and EGR. Sometimes crankshaft position sensor or PCV. Overall OM613/648 is much better than OM642s. Nice video! The production of OM642 was necessary because the OM648 didnt meet the emission requirements and diesel effiency requirements for the new emission standards.
The exact motor that powers my 2019 Sprinter 3500XL Class B RV. So I'll enjoy the video. They must detune them a bit for the sprinter @ 185HP 325/TQ. The thing is these engines can be good for 300-500K without cracking open the block. With proper care, of course. The thing is the mfg calls for 20k between oil changes, at least in the Sprinters.
20k intervals on a commercial vehicle will not get you to 300k miles, or km for that matter
@@andrewgarcia3136 Perhaps, however, that's the recommended service intervals as put forth by the manufacturer. Also, keep in mind that my RV is not operating in a commercial situation. None the less I believe your comments are valid to some degree. I'd suggest that 10K changes are probably better, but I'm not sliding under the thing and dropping 13 quarts of dirty diesel, nor is paying the dealer $280 bucks for an oil change worth it either. I won't own this thing beyond 40-100K anyhow.
The chunky sludge pudding are the souls of many Tesla model 3s laid to rest
10 years is what people are getting out of their Tesla battery packs, and it only costs $18,000 to replace them. EVs need to come a lot further when we have to switch completely over
Reminds me of when I tore apart an old Honda 750-4 motorcycle engine. It too had never had an oil change, and the top end got so sludged the cam bearings starved and froze, snapping the cam shaft. The thing still ran on two cylinders because half the cam still turned.
"Throttle Plates" are only found on Emissions Equipped Diesels, and are only used under EGR activation to help draw exhaust gasses through the system.
There are some that use a throttle plate for anti shutter.
@@alexstromberg7696 My Volvo S60 has one for just that purpose, it makes a noticeable difference when you shut off the engine. My previous car was a V70 with the older version of the engine that came without a throttle.
@@Jeroen74 almost all engines have one.
Mercedes uses a lot of plastic parts in areas that get very hot. Sure it is cheaper but the plastic crumbles after a short time. It gets so hot in the engine the oil will turn to vapor. I would never own another diesel. By the time I get a DPF issue fixed I could have thousands invested only to have to fix again because of poor engineering.
I loved this cos I’ve got one in my Jeep GC
The swirl motors always seize up even in well looked after engines (removed mine) these engines burn dirty at best of times but this one was something to behold! I have a catch can in mine now to help keep the intakes clean.
6000 miles is a good oil change interval whatever the car manufacturers say. Longer oil change intervals became a sales argument at some point. DPF regeneration and carbon contaminate the oil. It would have been interesting to see an oil analysis of this sludge!
no later than 10 k km in om642.
Great video and very informative for those of us driving a vehicle with this Mercedes OM642 3.0L DOHC Turbodiesel V6.
congrats on having over 50,000 subscribers!!!
Thanks!!!
I have this engine in my MB CLS 350 CDI. 265 HP, 620 NM or 456 ft lbs, 0-60 in 6 sec. 150 mph (tested in one country ;)
That's the new cutting-edge "instant oil" system. Just add kerosene and it reconstitutes and unseizes.
They call it JiT oiling. Kinda like “Just in Time” manufacturing, but now for when your car needs oil.
Just made the oil change myself in my R 320 CDI 2007 after 5000 miles, and everything perfect,
Spent a few years working on those engines at the truck leasing company I work for. Hate those engines with a passion, regardless how we stuck to the manufacturer maintenance schedule they sludge up bad. That engine can only survive on full synthetic and cut the intervals in half, and the ones with the least sludge are the ones that spend 90% on highway. I feel sorry for every fool that thinks buying a mercedes or buy anything mercedes has their hands in is a quality buy, All they are buying is the name because quality ended at the end of the 80s early 90s.
When the EGR cooler fails this is the freaking result inside the engine of a emissions control diesel engine.
I’d agree, the twilight days of German engines passed by 2010. I’d almost say the same for all ICEs’. But I do believe the highest quality engine still being made- are coming out of Japan.
@@Bmizzzle1 Agree totally re best engines coming from Japan, and I say this as the owner of three German cars!
1# killer are stupid emissions systems like EGR
@@alouisschafer7212 EGR isn't even needed anymore. SCR systems work way better, and ditching the EGR makes DPFs work better too. But people are too lazy to fill the DEF tank, so manufacturers still use some EGR to reduce DEF consumption.
I have the same engine in my S Class, when I open my oil filler cap and look inside everything looks shiny and new .....and my car was built in 2006....regular oil changes and a bit of seafoam every oil change and good for probably 1,000.000 miles if you look after it and drive it nicely 😀 👍...oh BTW mine has only done 47,000 miles....its still in its run in period...🤣😂