Reaming is a bit harsh if done too enthusiastically, id soften with brake cleaner and use a suitable wire brush on an electric drill to remove the carbon, then vacuum it out. Always use OEM seals or genuine.
Many thanks for that. I am thinking about changing my own injectors on my Ford ecoblue engine, but as the injectors have been letting by I am wondering how I might clean the port itself?
Hello George. Great Videos, very intuitive and easy to follow. Many thanks for the content and your time. I recently replaced my rocker arms, camshafts, camshaft carrier, fuel overflow line and fuel return line. I Followed the ISTA manual to the T. I did not however ream the bottom of the injector wells. All the new parts mentioned were installed while piston 1 was on TDC. Timing was registered using a timing kit. Both intake and exhaust gears were matched up with the marks accordingly. I reassembled all the components but now the car cranks but doesn't turn on. The Camshaft sensor did get exposed to a degreaser and water unknowingly as it was on the valve cover and forgot to remove it prior to the bath. Do you think this is the cause of the car not turning on? It cranks once and stops it doesn't keep cranking to start. Could it be air in the fuel system or is the camshaft sensor cutting the system off to avoid more issues. I have 2014 535D N57 Engine.
That's exactly the problem i ran into... replaced the seals and washer ring.... and a diesel flows from the injection clamp... drill tap set is in the post.☆Happy new year ☆
What if some carbon drops in the hole (and in the cilinder), is that a (huge?) problem ? And with the reaming-kit..? -> What about the little shavings this tools makes..?
Regarding the grease you put at the end of the reaming tool: Won't some of the grease go into the cylinder and clog the injector nozzle when you put it back in? Do you have to use a heat resistant grease?
Iv found black oil around my coil plug tops wonder if the oil cap would leak into the groves and down to the plugs If I need new copper washers can I do this with the engine in still
I've done this now thank you. I was wondering, there is a small amount of carbon around the inside area of the bore(not the bottom) I tryed cleaning it but it's stuck on. Would this be a problem leaving it on as I don't want to risk trying to scrap it off and damage in bore
Wouldn’t worry too much but clean what you can with brake cleaner and a rag.. The bore doesn’t need to be spot on as the seal and o-rings seal it anyway
Alright mate followed every step of this exactly as you’ve done it but Iv got a problem with the claw that holds the injector down snapping anychance you know why this is happening
Hi George, ive done the new manifold after watching your video. Very helpful. I have a big problem, itemoved the fuel metal pipes just to be able to access the cables. Now ive stuck them and bled the pipes. Car is still delay starting. Tends to crank up as if somethings wrong on the fueline.
@@GeorgeAusters the car does fire, instead of firings like normal seems to take 4 seconds longer but car does fire and i can drive it but feels like 1second slower on acceleration when trying to floor it from 30mph to 50mph. Mpg felt fine doesnt seem to be draining like crazy did 80mile trip yesterday and only used 40miles of fuel. Wife is furious with me. Lol
@@ThiloK9 it was the crankshaft sensor, it stopped working, when i was bleeding the fuel line on the injectors. It created misfires and burning fuels slow on acceleration and delay on start up, once that was changed, it came back to life. I also changed the camshaft sensor, since both crankshaft sensor and cam work together to sinq the timing chain.
Hello.. I have damage on the cylinder head where the injectors are sitting. The damage came when I was taking out a stuck coper washer. Will this method solve my issue? I think I will have to scrub a bit more from the cylinder head. Thanks for the help!
Very clear instructions, however, I have a 97 xj Cherokee 2.5 td with no. 1 injector sensor issue (turbo cuts out at 2000 rpm) so I need to remove it, check the t resistance and fit a replacement, would you have any tips for this, will I need a removal tool ? Never done this before 😬
@@GeorgeAusters I suppose they're thinking that taking a few thou off the seat would impact the pressure applied to the injector by the clamp and bolt. It's a pertinent question, but I can't see it being an issue. I'd probably go 5 degrees more on the bolt on a heavier cut personally to be sure but, thinking about it more, because of the way injectors are generally held in by spring tension from the clamps, it should be relative right down to the torque and angle requirements.
I cut the seats and replaced the copper washers on my bmw n47 engine and one is still leaking. What should I do next? Edit: I was running out of ideas so I swapped the injector with another and now they are all sealing. Also gently tightened the injector clamp, tapped the clamp and injector with a copper hammer and finally torqued to 25nm
Is the purpose of teeming simply to remove carbon or to resurface the block that contacts the seal? In other words would a scotch pad adhered to a wooden dowel work as well? Also are there any seals which are more durable than the OEM seals. How do you clean the hold down bolt shaft threads? Great videos!
@@Trenscendent Many engines have one M8 stud holding two injectors! These absolutely have to be replaced. The Fiat type look very weak to my mind. It makes me wonder if high tensile studs would do a better job and why the factory uses the special bolts..
@@GeorgeAusters If the injector seat is clean and unmarked. you really should not need to recut the surface. A close look with a USB inspection camera "borescope" might be worth doing.
Hi buddy I have a 2008 mk4 mondeo 1.8 tdci and one injector port was leaking it had that like sticky toffee substance I got the injector out do you know what size of Reem it would be for cutting it out. Also how did you make up the wee attachment to get down into it for the hoover cheers buddy nice work.
Thanks for the video, followed the instructions, refitted reconditioned injectors, new copper washers, seals at the top of the tubes but now have no compression, engine cranks but sounds like there is no compression. If you remove the oil filler cap you get atomised diesel coming out. don't know what to try next.
Hi could you tell me are you removing any of the aluminium seat material? Or just carbon deposits on the seats? I had the black death occur on one of my injectors about a year ago, I cleaned up the seat with scotch bite on the end of a Screwdrier, as I didn't have the reaming tool and about a year later it's leaking again! Do I need to cut and remove seat material?
That ceaning tool. Can i do this while the engine is in the car. Also whats the type of tool i will need to pull the fuel injectors out. Im selling the car this year. But want to sort some things out. I saw your common problems with n47 video and so far most of it is to do with high miles and time for egr cleaning so and so.
it would be clever to make a tool that hooks up to the air compressor and the cutter will have a nipple that goes into the cylinder and the air pressure will blow the cuttings up out of the injector hole as the seat is being cut
Hi Boss Do you know if after removing injectors you will have to reprgramm them to ecu ? Ford transit 2.0 tdci , fifa, 2004, 125 h Just wanna rmove injectors and have a look at them / clean them which i can manage but i wont manage configuring it all with scanner and laptop Cheers mate.
@@GeorgeAusters Ty vm. Will then remove one , clean it ,put it back and then do all of them 1 by one as i have heared that some cars require you pairing injectors back to ecu via scanner and laptop if you have them all removed. Plan is to see them , clean them, maybe ordering some parts if they are leaking . Exited to try it
Copper grease is only good for when both metals are the same. That head is aluminium if I'm not mistaken. You are better of using ceramic grease it's heat resistant upto 1400 degrees.
@@mariolourenco5885 I've used a copper/carbon high temperature anti seize paste to great effect. It's worked really well between stainless and aluminium and on exhaust studs. It should be more than enough on a diesel injector. Having got one to deal with right now, I'm sure coating the injector all the way down would have prevented the problem happening.
@@Dave5843-d9mdo you apply grease on the whole injector as well before installing so it can come out easy and not rust? He doesnt show how to clean the actual injector or do you just wipe it and spray with carb cleaner only without brass brush to clean injector body and tip?
hi..just, an idea maybe to magnetize milling cutter every time you cut a seating aswell as grease.belt and braces job..Very informative and encouraging video and save people loads .Retired ex workshop machinist.
They should simply pull out. A strong solvent might help on some stuck injectors but the only sure way is a proper jacking tool or slide hammer to pull them out. It's a shame the injectors are not made with threaded lugs for jacking bolts.
If you have the black death problem and the injector is stuck then run the engine to get it hot and this should help to twist it back and fourth to break the black glue
I had the black death problem. I could not pull out the injector. I had a call out mechanic come to the car. He released the holding down bolts and ran the engine and got it hot and after removing the fuel connector twisted the injector and was able to release it without any pulling tool
I then decided to remove the other three injectors returning them to the same position as each injector has been previously programmed to the ECU. I cut several lengths of cane and glued different grades of emery paper to the end and rotated them on the seat to clean them. This had been suggested in another RUclips video some 7 years ago and the car has done some 70,000 miles since without attention to the seals and a total of 218,000 on original injectors on a 2009 Ford focus estate 1500 diesel. My 2012 Ford Focus C-max 1600 diesel is having its fourth injector replaced at 62,000 miles. I read many others with this model have also had to replace the injectors at low mileage
@@GeorgeAusters I am getting the smell in the cabin and also dirty looking around the injector. Not sure what the clicking noise is then 🤔. Happens when I rev past 2k and when I de-acceleration. Were the injectors hard to remove?
Don't think my mechanic did this just pickup up my 1.6tdi vw caddy. Fuel and oil filled all the top of Injectors leaking down engine now have oil pool. 😔 Once sitting it seem to drain back down. Injector 1
wrap a screwdriver a cloth and spray with carburetor cleaner and clean your injector wells than using very expensive tools that may damage your injector wells.
Thought it was a wham bam thing, now I know I need a injector well reaming kit.
Thx for this!
Reaming is a bit harsh if done too enthusiastically, id soften with brake cleaner and use a suitable wire brush on an electric drill to remove the carbon, then vacuum it out. Always use OEM seals or genuine.
I've used a wood dowel with a dab of valve grinding compound on it, the seats came out beautifully.
Thanks! The Grease tip was a great one.
Hello! Great video! I haver that tolo to reseat the injectors. Does anyone know wich One i choose for a Mitsubishi Colt VI 1.5 DID?
Many thanks for that. I am thinking about changing my own injectors on my Ford ecoblue engine, but as the injectors have been letting by I am wondering how I might clean the port itself?
best thanks for the instructions. Which grease is supposed to be used? Thanks.
Any multipurpose grease
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks mate. i thought it would be some special Injector grease.
Hello George. Great Videos, very intuitive and easy to follow. Many thanks for the content and your time. I recently replaced my rocker arms, camshafts, camshaft carrier, fuel overflow line and fuel return line. I Followed the ISTA manual to the T. I did not however ream the bottom of the injector wells. All the new parts mentioned were installed while piston 1 was on TDC. Timing was registered using a timing kit. Both intake and exhaust gears were matched up with the marks accordingly. I reassembled all the components but now the car cranks but doesn't turn on. The Camshaft sensor did get exposed to a degreaser and water unknowingly as it was on the valve cover and forgot to remove it prior to the bath. Do you think this is the cause of the car not turning on? It cranks once and stops it doesn't keep cranking to start. Could it be air in the fuel system or is the camshaft sensor cutting the system off to avoid more issues. I have 2014 535D N57 Engine.
That's exactly the problem i ran into... replaced the seals and washer ring.... and a diesel flows from the injection clamp... drill tap set is in the post.☆Happy new year ☆
What if some carbon drops in the hole (and in the cilinder), is that a (huge?) problem ?
And with the reaming-kit..? -> What about the little shavings this tools makes..?
Hi, could you tell me please wich cutter to use flat or angle cutter for mercedes om646
Hi I receipted my one and put new washer and cleaned out but for some reason I still have a leak do u no why this could be thank u 🙏🏻
Regarding the grease you put at the end of the reaming tool: Won't some of the grease go into the cylinder and clog the injector nozzle when you put it back in? Do you have to use a heat resistant grease?
Iv found black oil around my coil plug tops wonder if the oil cap would leak into the groves and down to the plugs If I need new copper washers can I do this with the engine in still
What size chopper washers do you use bro
Hi George from canada I'm a trucker I'm having raw unburnt fuel out me stacks, and a load machine gun sound on me caterpillar 3406e any thoughts?
I've done this now thank you. I was wondering, there is a small amount of carbon around the inside area of the bore(not the bottom) I tryed cleaning it but it's stuck on. Would this be a problem leaving it on as I don't want to risk trying to scrap it off and damage in bore
Wouldn’t worry too much but clean what you can with brake cleaner and a rag.. The bore doesn’t need to be spot on as the seal and o-rings seal it anyway
Do the seals have a position or makes no difference?
Alright mate followed every step of this exactly as you’ve done it but Iv got a problem with the claw that holds the injector down snapping anychance you know why this is happening
Hi George, ive done the new manifold after watching your video. Very helpful.
I have a big problem, itemoved the fuel metal pipes just to be able to access the cables. Now ive stuck them and bled the pipes. Car is still delay starting. Tends to crank up as if somethings wrong on the fueline.
Make sure they’re all tight and then keep cranking til it fires
@@GeorgeAusters the car does fire, instead of firings like normal seems to take 4 seconds longer but car does fire and i can drive it but feels like 1second slower on acceleration when trying to floor it from 30mph to 50mph. Mpg felt fine doesnt seem to be draining like crazy did 80mile trip yesterday and only used 40miles of fuel.
Wife is furious with me. Lol
@@QuattroBajeena
Did you figure it out?
@@ThiloK9 it was the crankshaft sensor, it stopped working, when i was bleeding the fuel line on the injectors. It created misfires and burning fuels slow on acceleration and delay on start up, once that was changed, it came back to life. I also changed the camshaft sensor, since both crankshaft sensor and cam work together to sinq the timing chain.
How do you know when to stop turning with the seat cutter tool
I recently bought a 3.0 V6 mercedes and just discovered the leaking injectors .
Just need to remove the carbon, can remove a small amount of aluminium but no need to really
Hello.. I have damage on the cylinder head where the injectors are sitting. The damage came when I was taking out a stuck coper washer. Will this method solve my issue? I think I will have to scrub a bit more from the cylinder head. Thanks for the help!
What was your solution?
I carried out this procedure and it worked just fine, thank for showing how it's done.
It's easy when you know how.
Very clear instructions, however, I have a 97 xj Cherokee 2.5 td with no. 1 injector sensor issue (turbo cuts out at 2000 rpm) so I need to remove it, check the t resistance and fit a replacement, would you have any tips for this, will I need a removal tool ? Never done this before 😬
Can this not be done under the bonnet? I don't really wanna take the engine out
Should run the reamer on the bottom of the injectors as well
Yeah not a bad idea!
I tried it after seeing a video few month ago, mine were really bad after doing one turn with the ream on the injector I could see they wasn’t flat
Hi, most of the carbon fall in when I have the injectors removed... how can I clean inside the piston ? Thanks
I would say it's not important. :)
Don't worry about the carbon - it'll find its way out :)
What happens if grease enters the engine?
Has anyone tried Viton sealed "Dowty" washers? They easily handle hydraulic pressures and Viton is more than capable in a cylinder head.
What grease did you use standard multipurpose grease? Thanks
Yes, any non metallic grease is fine really
@@GeorgeAustersbrilliant thank you
@@GeorgeAusters do you this this method does a good job with the grease, and the grease is fine if it falls into cylinder?
thank you very much.
On a BT 50 is it the same?
my washer ain't coming out. what did you use to remove the copper washer?
lag screw
That work well for aluminum heads. Do you know of a injector seat cutter kit that work on cutting cast iron heads and where i can get one?
This will work fine. You’re not trying to cut the head much, more just clean it
@@GeorgeAustersjust make sure you can see the metal seat clean , is really all you need to do.
What you called that tools??
One of my injectors is blown, on my x5 3.0 2008 m57 engine. I will order a used one off eBay, I was wondering if I would need to code it to my vehicle
Yes you will
Would you increase the thickness of the new copper washer?
No why?
@@GeorgeAusters I suppose they're thinking that taking a few thou off the seat would impact the pressure applied to the injector by the clamp and bolt.
It's a pertinent question, but I can't see it being an issue. I'd probably go 5 degrees more on the bolt on a heavier cut personally to be sure but, thinking about it more, because of the way injectors are generally held in by spring tension from the clamps, it should be relative right down to the torque and angle requirements.
I cut the seats and replaced the copper washers on my bmw n47 engine and one is still leaking. What should I do next?
Edit: I was running out of ideas so I swapped the injector with another and now they are all sealing. Also gently tightened the injector clamp, tapped the clamp and injector with a copper hammer and finally torqued to 25nm
I replaced my cooper seals in my touareg TDI 2016 as preventive maintenance, and now I have black death in 1 cylinder, any recommendation?
Did you reuse the injector hold down bolts or use new ones? I am currently doing this and on ISTA it does not mention using new bolts.
Original ones
Can you tell me where I can buy this tool
Linked in description
more videos e46 320d,M47 ,please...greetings from Serbia
Where can I buy reseat tools in Namibia
Linked in the description
Is the purpose of teeming simply to remove carbon or to resurface the block that contacts the seal? In other words would a scotch pad adhered to a wooden dowel work as well? Also are there any seals which are more durable than the OEM seals. How do you clean the hold down bolt shaft threads? Great videos!
Mainly to remove the carbon and make sure it has a clean seat
Always ALWAYS replace the hold down bolts. They're stretch bolts and can only be torqued down once. Definitely buy a set of brand new ones.
@@Trenscendent Many engines have one M8 stud holding two injectors! These absolutely have to be replaced. The Fiat type look very weak to my mind. It makes me wonder if high tensile studs would do a better job and why the factory uses the special bolts..
@@GeorgeAusters If the injector seat is clean and unmarked. you really should not need to recut the surface. A close look with a USB inspection camera "borescope" might be worth doing.
Hi buddy I have a 2008 mk4 mondeo 1.8 tdci and one injector port was leaking it had that like sticky toffee substance I got the injector out do you know what size of Reem it would be for cutting it out. Also how did you make up the wee attachment to get down into it for the hoover cheers buddy nice work.
Get the reaming kit in the description and that should cover you. I just taped a smaller pipe to the vacuum👍🏻
It seems out of stock I'll check other links tha k you for your help and keep the great videos coming 😊
Hi! What brand you used for the washers?
Bosch only
Thanks for the video, followed the instructions, refitted reconditioned injectors, new copper washers, seals at the top of the tubes but now have no compression, engine cranks but sounds like there is no compression. If you remove the oil filler cap you get atomised diesel coming out. don't know what to try next.
Are your hold down bolts tightening up? The holes fill up with crap and doesn't let the bolts seat properly
What if your engine doesnt have washers like my iveco?
Tapered cutter. Be thorough in cleaning, but careful not to damage mating surfaces.
W211 e220 cdi shall i use 17x17 angled reamer?
Thank you for this video!
You are so welcome
EXCELLENT thanks
Hi could you tell me are you removing any of the aluminium seat material? Or just carbon deposits on the seats? I had the black death occur on one of my injectors about a year ago, I cleaned up the seat with scotch bite on the end of a Screwdrier, as I didn't have the reaming tool and about a year later it's leaking again! Do I need to cut and remove seat material?
In theory there’s no need to remove material but doesn’t hurt to remove a tiny bit. Do you replace the injector seals?
very good video make more... your very clear in your videos and helpful big thankyou!
That ceaning tool.
Can i do this while the engine is in the car.
Also whats the type of tool i will need to pull the fuel injectors out.
Im selling the car this year. But want to sort some things out.
I saw your common problems with n47 video and so far most of it is to do with high miles and time for egr cleaning so and so.
What do you mean by Black Death?
Excellent presentation and very helpful 👍
What are the type of injectors are on these engines? Bosch or Siemens?
Bosch
Cheers George 🤙🏼
What engine is this? m47?
N47
Thanks pal
Is this the n47 engine?
Yes
Nc Lods, Solid infos injectors reseat
Thanks
It is possible that seat is minor air leaks then car won't start bcoz my car wont start
it would be clever to make a tool that hooks up to the air compressor and the cutter will have a nipple that goes into the cylinder and the air pressure will blow the cuttings up out of the injector hole as the seat is being cut
I use grease to lift the cuttings, best way to do it
Yep that’s exactly what I did👍🏻
Gris in swedish is Pig :)
Im not sure that helps.. But now you know
great video pal
Hi Boss
Do you know if after removing injectors you will have to reprgramm them to ecu ?
Ford transit 2.0 tdci , fifa, 2004, 125 h
Just wanna rmove injectors and have a look at them / clean them which i can manage but i wont manage configuring it all with scanner and laptop
Cheers mate.
Not if you’re just reinstalling them no
@@GeorgeAusters Ty vm.
Will then remove one , clean it ,put it back and then do all of them 1 by one as i have heared that some cars require you pairing injectors back to ecu via scanner and laptop if you have them all removed.
Plan is to see them , clean them, maybe ordering some parts if they are leaking .
Exited to try it
@@GeorgeAusters will bleeding air be required after reinstalling injectors ?
Any other steps please?
Great video, What type of grease to you use, does it matter?? Cheers
Something heat resistant like copper grease
Copper grease is only good for when both metals are the same. That head is aluminium if I'm not mistaken. You are better of using ceramic grease it's heat resistant upto 1400 degrees.
@@GeorgeAusters One type that is very sticky !
@@mariolourenco5885 I've used a copper/carbon high temperature anti seize paste to great effect. It's worked really well between stainless and aluminium and on exhaust studs. It should be more than enough on a diesel injector. Having got one to deal with right now, I'm sure coating the injector all the way down would have prevented the problem happening.
@@Dave5843-d9mdo you apply grease on the whole injector as well before installing so it can come out easy and not rust? He doesnt show how to clean the actual injector or do you just wipe it and spray with carb cleaner only without brass brush to clean injector body and tip?
hi..just, an idea maybe to magnetize milling cutter every time you cut a seating aswell as grease.belt and braces job..Very informative and encouraging video and save people loads .Retired ex workshop machinist.
Not sure a magnet would do much on an aluminium head 😅
Thanks a lot man!
What did you use to take out the injectors? Is a special tool needed? Link?
Gabriel Alexandru Cisma Watch my video stripping down n47 engine👍🏻
They should simply pull out. A strong solvent might help on some stuck injectors but the only sure way is a proper jacking tool or slide hammer to pull them out. It's a shame the injectors are not made with threaded lugs for jacking bolts.
If you have the black death problem and the injector is stuck then run the engine to get it hot and this should help to twist it back and fourth to break the black glue
I had the black death problem. I could not pull out the injector. I had a call out mechanic come to the car. He released the holding down bolts and ran the engine and got it hot and after removing the fuel connector twisted the injector and was able to release it without any pulling tool
I then decided to remove the other three injectors returning them to the same position as each injector has been previously programmed to the ECU. I cut several lengths of cane and glued different grades of emery paper to the end and rotated them on the seat to clean them. This had been suggested in another RUclips video some 7 years ago and the car has done some 70,000 miles since without attention to the seals and a total of 218,000 on original injectors on a 2009 Ford focus estate 1500 diesel. My 2012 Ford Focus C-max 1600 diesel is having its fourth injector replaced at 62,000 miles. I read many others with this model have also had to replace the injectors at low mileage
be nice to see a leak off test on this engine
Is there any symptoms of this apart from fuel coming back up? Would "ticking" "clicking" be a symptom?
Carbon coming past your injectors, diesel fumes inside the cabin. Don’t think ticking is directly related to the injector seals
@@GeorgeAusters I am getting the smell in the cabin and also dirty looking around the injector. Not sure what the clicking noise is then 🤔. Happens when I rev past 2k and when I de-acceleration. Were the injectors hard to remove?
If it's dirty round the carbon then there is a good chance the seal is gone. They can be hard to remove so i'd recommend using a slide hammer
a puffing sound, yes a ticking aswell from the cylinder not performing 100%
Yes it would.
Merry christmas
Merry Christmas to you too Deundre!
Thanks mate.. Very informative video as im looking forward to clean my injectors seat.. 👍👍
Loss of comp fkn nightmare
Don't think my mechanic did this just pickup up my 1.6tdi vw caddy. Fuel and oil filled all the top of Injectors leaking down engine now have oil pool. 😔
Once sitting it seem to drain back down. Injector 1
very good informative.
Cheers Colin!
Merry christmas from korea^^
South Korea I’m assuming? Merry Christmas to you!
wrap a screwdriver a cloth and spray with carburetor cleaner and clean your injector wells than using very expensive tools that may damage your injector wells.
Yeah don't use expensive tools designed for the job, use rudimentary tools instead, lots safer 😂🤦🏻♂️
@@Flash81_ the money saved on the seating reamer can be used to buy a set of head skimming screwdrivers,
Superb video, but the peace crap at the end is Fucking annoying lol
I’ve stopped it now👍🏻
Great video very informative peace!
Awesome