I made the mistake of trying to drive my Golf at -38C, but didn't realise that my coolant had frozen. Ended up having to dismantle almost everything as you did just to reach a burst coolant hose. Couldn't have done it without your video, very much appreciated. Not a fun job, but your video certainly made it a lot easier.
Literally just finished doing this exact change with my dad. 1.5 days (we are not mechanics by any measure) but finally got there. Thank you so much for making this easy to follow video. You've saved me hundreds of pounds 🍻
Thanks for the very helpful video. I am thinking about carrying out this job as my car been slowly losing coolant over time for about 6M. Been pressure tested no leak found and block tested expansion tank a few times for signs of head gasket might of gone. Might be wrong here but I’m sure I recall you mentioning you’ve had past experiences working for the dealership. So completely off the chuff ask for help, but I’m at a loss with it. But I’ve been experiencing what seems to be fake overheating over last month prior to coolant loss and on a long motorway journey without fail when pull up outside house fans on full whack. Had the water pump, thermostat changed as apparently wasn’t retuning to expansion tank, but had no joy. Flush radiator/ system in case of blockage and then coolant sensor changed as wasn’t reading correctly. But still fake overheating(slight raise in coolant levels when in cabin temperature indicators reaching 110-120 mark for few moments then drops back to 90) all pipes feel hot and cold where meant to be, fan engaged and have been tested it operate. Mechanic seems to now think it might be a ECU software issue. Only other thing I’ve notice via live data on OBD says DPF last gen 45236.7 km (although engine was off) so might be wrong. There also a fail code on code for horn, so wondering if it’s a relay that has gone as sure seen a relay - main current that seems to control horn and radiator fan overrun etc. I at a loss where to turn and wondered have ever come across this before? Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
I'll be doing this plus the timing belt and a new EGR valve and cooler assembly on a 2012 jetta with the CFFB. Fun times. I have completely disambled a Peugeot 307 hdi the DW10BDET4 RHR engine and don't the T belt. Wasn't too hard
Great job, sorry for your fresh hand scars ... At the end, was this a remedy for coolant loss? I have similar situation, but on cabrio, which has 15 kg metal plate under engine (as its lacking the roof :) )
Had one of these for 5 years now i think. Sat for 2 yrs during covid, but once the suspension was changed (,failed mot with cracked spring the day before 1st lockdown 20 miles away from home, so it wasnt stopping there) and a new battery and service it was fine. Just failed it mot yesterday on minor things, wing mirror indicator being the big one !. Also developed a coolant leak on mot day as well which after checking i am diagnosing as oil filter housing, so this job will be done this weekend coming. Great vids. Ive also "cleaned" the dpf, so if you fancy a nasty job, enjoy trying to get that out on your driveway 😂
I’m hoping my DPF remains trouble free. I give it a good long run every week to allow it to regen under the correct conditions. Good luck with the oil filter housing!
@@autoknight747 DPF hack I've done on 2.0 CBAB, can be done on 1.6 DPF : disconnect clamp between turbo and dpf, slide clamp aside and in gap between turbo and dpf I slid plastic sheet, from an oil container, dpf need little push to make bigger gap and once in it is sealed from turbo. Then I removed oxygen sensor and I poured about 3 litres of ordinary household degreaser (stolen from wife's supplies) waited about 20 minutes, sensor has 3/4 bsp tread, ideal to rig garden hose fitting, so I run water trough DPF, to avoid the mess I catch all water on exhaust, first 30 liter bucket was pitch black, 4 one comes all clear. Then trough VCDS I told to ECU that new DPF is installed .
@@sladjankamberovic Excellent tip there and one to remember if I ever have problems. The exhaust tailpipe is as clean inside as a petrol car, so it must be retaining and processing the particulate quite well.
Had this thing fail for the 3rd time 😤 one advice: when you are flushing the coolant on those engines change the thermostat because it somehow stays open and the engine won't be able to get the 90°C
Thank you! I think I just went by feel with those bolts. The plastic housing does have metal inserts to prevent bolts from damaging it but I wouldn’t want to have gone too crazy with the tightening.
Hey great video, I’m just wondering in what way did you refill the coolant bottle. Did you need to use a coolant pressure vacuum to get the air out of the system and refill that way or..?
I did not drain the oil first, most will be in the sump but you will lose some when removing the housing. It is good to do an oil change after, just in case any dirt or coolant enters the oilway when removing the housing.
Bout to do same job when parts arrive tomorrow, a bit nervous for the oil dipstick. Any reason why u fitted in coolant and then ran the car a bit to get air out of system, then to change oil after? im just wondering if better to tap out oil, fill in new, and then fit in new coolant ? Thank you for this video!
Working on the cooling system requires the engine to be cold, whereas draining engine oil requires the engine to be warm/hot. I changed the oil due to the theoretical risk of a small amount of coolant entering oilways when the housing was removed from the block. Good luck and I hope it goes well!
I would never have got my hands in there without dismantling. When in doubt I always try to improve access rather than struggle and cause unnecessary frustration.
Felt your pain bro... wish we could all be wealthy enough to never get our hands dirty again.... but then again we would not remain as real men. So on we go. Got a quote for 800 quid clutch and flywheel on a fiesta. Thaught naff that. I was on the floor under me car with gearbox on me chest.....
Think this has just started failing on my Seat Leon 1.6 diesel. I’ve got coolant pooling on the 2 metal shelves below this housing. How much would you say a garage would charge to get this changed?
It’s hard to say as I don’t know the official Audi labour time for this component and all garages have different labour rates. Would probably be a case of phoning around. I’d check with Audi first as a benchmark.
Yeah, first thanks for making the video. My Polo 6R 1.6 TDI from 2010 is leaking oil like a motherfucker from this exact oil filter housing. Don't know if it is cracked, or if the gasket failed. Think I will let the garage deal with this one for me, don't want to mess with no cows... How many hours did this take you to do? Do you have any suggestions why my fine little car would start to leak, all of a sudden? Maybe clogged crank ventilation or something? I suspect the job might have been easier to do if you had removed the radiator..
@@the_hate_inside1085 The job would have taken a couple of hours if it wasn’t for filming/narrating etc which always drastically increases the times. I was a VW tech in the 90s and from memory VW started using a lot more plastic for coolant flanges and the like from mid to late 80s, I’m assuming to save money. These flanges are very prone to distortion, likely from repeated heat cycles. Sadly the use of plastics continued to increase. Not a terrible job to do though in the case of this. Radiator removal isn’t necessary to complete this.
Another excellent well explained process,never done this job on my 1.6 TDI CAYC,and hoping l never need to after watching this. If you need to clean the EGR pipe to the anti shudder valve in the future try spray type oven cleaner Mr Muscel it works very well and safe on stainless steel.Also like to ask was this the problem ref coolent loss,or was it maybee the EGR cooler and valve unit under the turbo? Have you ever come across this problem with Audi/VW? ruclips.net/video/dxirMtjr4tg/видео.html
Thank you! I used to use oven cleaner to clean the variable vane turbo on an A4 B6 with a PD engine that I used to own. It really cleared it and improved the performance. Those EGRs would clog up too and you’d end up with a severe restriction in air flow due to all the carbon. So far so good in terms of coolant loss. I still get the odd whiff of coolant though so I wouldn’t be surprised if the water pump might be seeping when I change it with the cambelt. I’ve heard about the silica bags in the reservoirs but not seen first hand any issues as a result. I’ll look out for them. Thanks for the link - I watched the video.
I made the mistake of trying to drive my Golf at -38C, but didn't realise that my coolant had frozen. Ended up having to dismantle almost everything as you did just to reach a burst coolant hose. Couldn't have done it without your video, very much appreciated. Not a fun job, but your video certainly made it a lot easier.
I feel you but I think you had the hardest time I was doing my gearbox at -1 in Yorkshire 2020
Literally just finished doing this exact change with my dad. 1.5 days (we are not mechanics by any measure) but finally got there. Thank you so much for making this easy to follow video. You've saved me hundreds of pounds 🍻
Thanks for the very helpful video. I am thinking about carrying out this job as my car been slowly losing coolant over time for about 6M. Been pressure tested no leak found and block tested expansion tank a few times for signs of head gasket might of gone. Might be wrong here but I’m sure I recall you mentioning you’ve had past experiences working for the dealership. So completely off the chuff ask for help, but I’m at a loss with it. But I’ve been experiencing what seems to be fake overheating over last month prior to coolant loss and on a long motorway journey without fail when pull up outside house fans on full whack. Had the water pump, thermostat changed as apparently wasn’t retuning to expansion tank, but had no joy. Flush radiator/ system in case of blockage and then coolant sensor changed as wasn’t reading correctly. But still fake overheating(slight raise in coolant levels when in cabin temperature indicators reaching 110-120 mark for few moments then drops back to 90) all pipes feel hot and cold where meant to be, fan engaged and have been tested it operate. Mechanic seems to now think it might be a ECU software issue. Only other thing I’ve notice via live data on OBD says DPF last gen 45236.7 km (although engine was off) so might be wrong. There also a fail code on code for horn, so wondering if it’s a relay that has gone as sure seen a relay - main current that seems to control horn and radiator fan overrun etc.
I at a loss where to turn and wondered have ever come across this before? Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
I gotta do this to my mk6 golf cayc, this vid just makes it a bit easier, i appriciate it, thanks buddy
Good job man! It's broken tall temperature?
I love Audi a3 8p 1.6 tdi ♥
I'll be doing this plus the timing belt and a new EGR valve and cooler assembly on a 2012 jetta with the CFFB. Fun times. I have completely disambled a Peugeot 307 hdi the DW10BDET4 RHR engine and don't the T belt. Wasn't too hard
Great job, sorry for your fresh hand scars ... At the end, was this a remedy for coolant loss? I have similar situation, but on cabrio, which has 15 kg metal plate under engine (as its lacking the roof :) )
No coolant loss since and I consider it fixed!
Had one of these for 5 years now i think. Sat for 2 yrs during covid, but once the suspension was changed (,failed mot with cracked spring the day before 1st lockdown 20 miles away from home, so it wasnt stopping there) and a new battery and service it was fine.
Just failed it mot yesterday on minor things, wing mirror indicator being the big one !. Also developed a coolant leak on mot day as well which after checking i am diagnosing as oil filter housing, so this job will be done this weekend coming. Great vids. Ive also "cleaned" the dpf, so if you fancy a nasty job, enjoy trying to get that out on your driveway 😂
I’m hoping my DPF remains trouble free. I give it a good long run every week to allow it to regen under the correct conditions. Good luck with the oil filter housing!
@@autoknight747 DPF hack I've done on 2.0 CBAB, can be done on 1.6 DPF : disconnect clamp between turbo and dpf, slide clamp aside and in gap between turbo and dpf I slid plastic sheet, from an oil container, dpf need little push to make bigger gap and once in it is sealed from turbo. Then I removed oxygen sensor and I poured about 3 litres of ordinary household degreaser (stolen from wife's supplies) waited about 20 minutes, sensor has 3/4 bsp tread, ideal to rig garden hose fitting, so I run water trough DPF, to avoid the mess I catch all water on exhaust, first 30 liter bucket was pitch black, 4 one comes all clear. Then trough VCDS I told to ECU that new DPF is installed .
@@sladjankamberovic Excellent tip there and one to remember if I ever have problems. The exhaust tailpipe is as clean inside as a petrol car, so it must be retaining and processing the particulate quite well.
Had this thing fail for the 3rd time 😤 one advice: when you are flushing the coolant on those engines change the thermostat because it somehow stays open and the engine won't be able to get the 90°C
Brilliant instructions! What did you torque the 8mm spline bolts please?
Thank you! I think I just went by feel with those bolts. The plastic housing does have metal inserts to prevent bolts from damaging it but I wouldn’t want to have gone too crazy with the tightening.
Hat off to you, that looked sooo tricky!..great work though.
Hey great video, I’m just wondering in what way did you refill the coolant bottle. Did you need to use a coolant pressure vacuum to get the air out of the system and refill that way or..?
Just slow and steady refilling with engine running and all air was expelled.
Good evening, very nice video !
I have to do the same operation on my vehicle, do we need to drain the oil first?
I did not drain the oil first, most will be in the sump but you will lose some when removing the housing. It is good to do an oil change after, just in case any dirt or coolant enters the oilway when removing the housing.
Thank you for the answer ;)@@autoknight747
Where do I purchase the G12 coolant ? I had bought one coolant at autozone saying it was compatible with my VW are those safe to use?
Bout to do same job when parts arrive tomorrow, a bit nervous for the oil dipstick. Any reason why u fitted in coolant and then ran the car a bit to get air out of system, then to change oil after? im just wondering if better to tap out oil, fill in new, and then fit in new coolant ?
Thank you for this video!
Working on the cooling system requires the engine to be cold, whereas draining engine oil requires the engine to be warm/hot. I changed the oil due to the theoretical risk of a small amount of coolant entering oilways when the housing was removed from the block. Good luck and I hope it goes well!
Would you not be able to do the job without taking the boost pipe and plastic pipe going to the throttle body?
I would never have got my hands in there without dismantling. When in doubt I always try to improve access rather than struggle and cause unnecessary frustration.
keep the videos coming auto knight its helping us save money N me T fix my audi a3 tdi,😁
does the oil filter housing comes with the a new oil radiator mounted? i have a skoda yeti 2.0 tdi 140ps my2009 thanks 🙏
Yes it came with the oil cooler.
My dad hate this problem with the water in audi a3
what do you use to grease the plastic part with the garnishes ?
If you are referring to the rubber seal, I used a light coating of red rubber grease.
@@autoknight747 tenks !!!
Felt your pain bro... wish we could all be wealthy enough to never get our hands dirty again.... but then again we would not remain as real men. So on we go. Got a quote for 800 quid clutch and flywheel on a fiesta. Thaught naff that. I was on the floor under me car with gearbox on me chest.....
my vw 1.6TDI(EA288) oil temp can reach 130，should I have to replace this as well
This was replaced due to oil leakage. That sounds a bit high for a diesel engine but difficult to know the cause without full diagnosis.
Head gasket
I did this job on an A3 TDI 2L, its v tricky... Audis are not mechanic friendly
Think this has just started failing on my Seat Leon 1.6 diesel. I’ve got coolant pooling on the 2 metal shelves below this housing.
How much would you say a garage would charge to get this changed?
It’s hard to say as I don’t know the official Audi labour time for this component and all garages have different labour rates. Would probably be a case of phoning around. I’d check with Audi first as a benchmark.
Yeah, first thanks for making the video. My Polo 6R 1.6 TDI from 2010 is leaking oil like a motherfucker from this exact oil filter housing. Don't know if it is cracked, or if the gasket failed. Think I will let the garage deal with this one for me, don't want to mess with no cows...
How many hours did this take you to do? Do you have any suggestions why my fine little car would start to leak, all of a sudden? Maybe clogged crank ventilation or something? I suspect the job might have been easier to do if you had removed the radiator..
@@the_hate_inside1085 The job would have taken a couple of hours if it wasn’t for filming/narrating etc which always drastically increases the times. I was a VW tech in the 90s and from memory VW started using a lot more plastic for coolant flanges and the like from mid to late 80s, I’m assuming to save money. These flanges are very prone to distortion, likely from repeated heat cycles. Sadly the use of plastics continued to increase. Not a terrible job to do though in the case of this. Radiator removal isn’t necessary to complete this.
Another excellent well explained process,never done this job on my 1.6 TDI CAYC,and hoping l never need to after watching this.
If you need to clean the EGR pipe to the anti shudder valve in the future try spray type oven cleaner Mr Muscel it works very well and safe on stainless steel.Also like to ask was this the problem ref coolent loss,or was it maybee the EGR cooler and valve unit under the turbo?
Have you ever come across this problem with Audi/VW?
ruclips.net/video/dxirMtjr4tg/видео.html
Thank you! I used to use oven cleaner to clean the variable vane turbo on an A4 B6 with a PD engine that I used to own. It really cleared it and improved the performance. Those EGRs would clog up too and you’d end up with a severe restriction in air flow due to all the carbon.
So far so good in terms of coolant loss. I still get the odd whiff of coolant though so I wouldn’t be surprised if the water pump might be seeping when I change it with the cambelt.
I’ve heard about the silica bags in the reservoirs but not seen first hand any issues as a result. I’ll look out for them. Thanks for the link - I watched the video.