This is straight up awesomely done and awesomely edited content! I can actually feel the differences in the improvements via your hand gestures. I dont own a MK I but I did just order a MK II, the ad was kind of a mix mash of MK I and MK II pics, but its supposed to be a MK II. Now I will be able to tell the difference for sure. Thanks again!
Picked up an amazing condition TX16s with the carbon fiber look faceplate used. But it looks different then all the ones shown. Doesn't have the screen style holes that you drilled for better sound. Has the spot for the TX16s logo and the small "slots" for the speaker above that logo spot. Also has two "notches" just to the inside of both of the gimbal cutouts. I am looking at the CNC upgrade kit and hope it will work for my model. It is for sure a TX16s...just front cover is a tad different looking. What version do you think it is? Anyway I can send you a pic for verification of what I have?
Which of the mk2 parts can be used to uograde existing mk1 models? Can the new 6pos button LEDs be swapped into the old one? Do the new knobs/sliders work in a mk1?
Hello! I did not look that closely... The pots of the MK2 is a nice idea to use for the MK1 but what about the 6-position buttons? Why would you need to upgrade them (if possible at all)?
Ah for the illumination color, ok, I see. Not sure if the PCB boards are the same but you can always desolder the existing LEDs and solder new ones. You can get an idea of the whole process from my Taranis X9D illumination mod.
I just got mine and there is a really loud and high pitched noise coming from it. I couldn't find any solutions and I'll probably disconnect the speakers. Do you know how to disconnect the front one? Nice video!
Thank you! That's a bummer :( Do you hear it from both speakers? The front speaker should be the red and black wires 2-pin connector right next to the connector of the rear speaker.
@@muteFPV Thanks for replying! I removed the 2 connectors and it turns out that the high frequency sound is not coming from either of the speakers :/ I don't know what could cause that noise.
Sounds like a power regulation / power delivery issue but maybe I am wrong, I have not encountered this. Does the noise change if you plug the USB for charging? Does the noise change if you disable the internal transmitter (or if you remove the external transmitter module, if you are using one)? Can you hear the noise if you remove the battery and plug the data USB at the top (for example to your computer) - this powers some of the components of the radio, for example in mine I can see the backlight of the 6-button array and the gimbal LED illumination rings turn on as well?
@@muteFPV I am using the internal ELRS version without the external module. When I turn off the internal transmitter, the noise goes away, but comes just after I turn it back on. When I change the transmitter power from 10 to 250mW, noise level changes. When I plug the USB data cable without turning the radio on, the 6 position switch turns on with an animation. This whole time my transmitter battery was lower than 7,2 volts, I charged it to 7,5 and the noise is gone now (not totally since I can hear it when I bring my ear close to it, but that's probably normal) I hope the problem won't reappear when the battery goes below 7,2 volts. Thanks for helping!
Still, it remains an inconvenience, especially if you are using 18650 cells which are perfectly fine at 3,6V each. Where did you get it from? Have you contacted them?
I really miss part 2.0 of your 31mm prop testing! Any chance of you revisiting the whoop format? Also thousand of views waiting for you, everyone stopped testing 31mm 🙂
It would be nice if it came with a manual. The quick start paper is very basic with little info. They tell you go to their web 😂site😂 and download manual but the quick start is all I can find. If I wasn’t new to the sport I suppose it would be less obscure.
Great content! The manufacture does not include installation instructions with the CNC kit. I would have bought the max version if it were in blue. But because I wanted blue I would have needed to spend $399 for the radio. I bought the CNC kit in blue and the carbon face. I t went well until I had to install the gimble face plate. It is still not installed. I was advised by Radiomaster support to contact marketing to see if they had any information. Really. It is a reeally nice radio. Capable of controlling the 13 helicopters I have. But support for me so far sucks.
I am sorry to hear that, I am very familiar with this radio and I don't realize it when there is lack of information / instructions. You can check my illuminated gimbal rings video, which should help you install your CNC rings!
They do have a pouch that converts the stock foam case to a carrying case, which is cheap and an awesome idea actually. The cases would need to be very thick in order to fit the stock handle so I don't blame them for not doing so. But I agree that these kind of cases are not the best you can get. I personally like the pick'n'pluck cases that you can set them up exactly the way you want.
After 2 years of using this radio, here are my top 20 things kthat disappoint me about it: 1. If your USB data cable is connected, it won't boot up. Real PITA if you use the sim. 2. There is no voltage protection on the USB ports, meaning you can (and I have) fried out motherboards just connecting the USB-C cable. You're best bet is to kalways connect and disconnect on the UB-A end. 3. Radiomaster 1 year warranty is a joke. They won't repair you radio, but instead refer you to send it to your nearest hobby store who know less than you on repairing it. mostly likely they'll DFU flash it and send it back. 4. USB power cable comes out the bottom. Why? It needs to come out the top. 5. USB charging circuit will only charge up to full, not half way storage foltage and stop. Again, major PITA if you are a sim flyer who likes to leave cables always connected. 6. Ships like most transmitters with the worst stock glass cheap stick ends. These encourage people to become "pinchers" which is the absolutely wrong way to hold the sticks. Replace them immediately as soon as you get your radio with something else. Instead of a rubber keychain and stickers, why not ship with a choice of 3 different stick ends? 6. Six position switch is in a terrible position 7. Should ship with 27700 tray instead of 18660. It's got the space. 8. Just totally lose the multiprotocol module inside, just give us a JR bay with better connector. nobody uses the internal multprtocol module. Why would you, whien anything you can put in the JR bay is better? 9. The stick threads are too short. 10. Using different stick ends, and lowering plates, the sticks will collide with the bottom inside irght face plat corners. 11. Lowering plates should be included with all TX'sin the box, even if they are just palstic. 12. The back grip ribs should be removable. 13. The switches are not the best quality. I had one explode right after buying the TX. 14. There should be some kind of plastic cuard protector protecting all the switches and keeping USB cabl;es from catching on them. 15. Use bolts instead of screws to attach the back plate. 16. There's not a lot of depth to the screws holidng in the gimbals. In fact, if you screw too far your screw will poke through the front of the face plate with a little dimple 😕 17. Vibrating the haptic feedback every X seconds on low battery seems like a bad idea, as it will only drain the battery that much faster...? Probably can be fixed in Open-TX 18. The 4 press menu select buttons are connected by tabs for quick manufactuer to make them one unit... which works fine on the plastic buttons, but if you switch to the metal buttons you will find the tabs keep the buttons to being depressed. Cut the buttons off the tabs and place them in as 4 independently free floating buttons and this will solve the problem of sticking menu buttons. 19. Can I think of two more? Probably but I'd like to mention reviewers who can't fly get hung up on how much improved the slider and POTS detents are now, which are almost absolutely irrelevant. Literally, you will not use these while flying. 20. Instead of listening to input like this and making a decent radio better, they go backwards and release a less capable radio like the Zorro with a tiny screen or TX-12 which is almost a toy. And that was Choppergirl's 20 things to know about the Radiomaster TX-16.
@@mattmathias8507 It's a mixed bag. On the down side, all those long switches catch on everything (cables), are rather fragile despite being made of steel (they break internally, I broke one just by gently laying a pillow on top of my radio to keep the dust off) The data and charging port is not voltage protected, so you have to be super extremely careful with them. The SD card slot will lose your microsd card inside. It's not idea as a sim radio, and I can't imagine it's ideal to travel with. On the plus side, there are a lot of after market mods available for it, fromrubber switch covers, stick ends, lowering plates, lighting kits, grip tape, JR bay modules, etc. And a huge amount of switches and trim switches allow you to clear off the chart funk from your OSD and use verbal reporting via a switch. SO if you are okay with treating it like glass AND want tons of switches, it's okay. If you want something you can just jamp in your pocket, backpack, throw on your car seat, or let your kids at home play around with, ti's not okay at all. Kids will tear this puppy up (or so I've heard from people with kids int he house).
@@mattmathias8507 If you want a big radio with tons of switches and big color screen and you enjoy modding your radio and pimping it out with color... and treating it like a Fabrege egg.. then I recommend it. If you want something you can toss around like a Nintendo controller and not worry about breaking it, and beat it all to death then.. hmm no. I planned to spend about $160 each on my two radios. What I ended up spending was $400 each on each of them, for a total of about $800. Once you add 2 wattCrossfire and 1watt ELRS JR bay modules, HAL gimbals, and a $70 alluminum color kit.. yeah. Up until they both worled I was mostly happy with them, even though I way over payed. Wjen one died, and left me with just one working radio and I had spent $800... then yeah, not so much so. I bought a replacement motherboard, but it's a difficult install with a bunch of ribbon cables. I've been in and out of my radios so many times though I can't count to swap in lowering plates and gimbals and replace that one switch. If you're looking for your first radio, and can get a used deal on ebay with the Crossfire module bay or ELRS module bay with it, then it would be okay. Otherwise, there's a lot of other options available now. I can't say how good they are versus a TX-16s, as I've only owned the two TX-16s's I have.
How can U possibly work on he back with the sticks and switches resting directly on a table, that certinally can't be good for them esoecially when one hase such a great molded case tha supports the radio when face down. I just cringed when you removed the back cover with one hand and the radio lying on the sticks. OUCH Boss. OOOPs sorry I should watch the complee video before commenting like the 3D designs at 6:40
Can't satisfy everyone's taste, you should try it yourself and find out if it is easy or not. Until then, feel free to turn off the volume on your device, all the information you need is in written anyway.
I forgot to check but it wouldn't surprise me if it does. Most electronics that include a microSD or SD card use generic brands, I suppose I am used to it.
I’ve recently ordered tho jb version and I’m now watching every video I can find on this controller
Nice! I am sure you will enjoy it and I hope you find my videos around the TX16S useful :)
@@muteFPV yeah I’m thinking about the ag01 gimbals and led rings and of course watched your videos!
This is straight up awesomely done and awesomely edited content! I can actually feel the differences in the improvements via your hand gestures. I dont own a MK I but I did just order a MK II, the ad was kind of a mix mash of MK I and MK II pics, but its supposed to be a MK II. Now I will be able to tell the difference for sure. Thanks again!
Thank you very much for your kind words! I am glad you found this video helpful!
Lots of work in this and I appreciate it. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Thank you very much :)
How does one identify a MKII radio as opposed to an older model. I purchaced mine from a friend Used.
Picked up an amazing condition TX16s with the carbon fiber look faceplate used. But it looks different then all the ones shown. Doesn't have the screen style holes that you drilled for better sound. Has the spot for the TX16s logo and the small "slots" for the speaker above that logo spot. Also has two "notches" just to the inside of both of the gimbal cutouts. I am looking at the CNC upgrade kit and hope it will work for my model. It is for sure a TX16s...just front cover is a tad different looking. What version do you think it is? Anyway I can send you a pic for verification of what I have?
Sure, you can send photos to mutefpv (at) gmail (dot) com and I will take a look!
Received and replied, it has a front cover from a Jumper T16 radio :) Check your email for an example photo.
Excellent video, mate! Thanks for the tutorial! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you, you too mate!
Is the 4in1 module and the ELRS module interchangable/compatible?
Which of the mk2 parts can be used to uograde existing mk1 models?
Can the new 6pos button LEDs be swapped into the old one? Do the new knobs/sliders work in a mk1?
Hello! I did not look that closely... The pots of the MK2 is a nice idea to use for the MK1 but what about the 6-position buttons? Why would you need to upgrade them (if possible at all)?
@@muteFPV the mk2 buttons are blue i think. the mk1 are orange ;)
Ah for the illumination color, ok, I see. Not sure if the PCB boards are the same but you can always desolder the existing LEDs and solder new ones. You can get an idea of the whole process from my Taranis X9D illumination mod.
I just got mine and there is a really loud and high pitched noise coming from it. I couldn't find any solutions and I'll probably disconnect the speakers. Do you know how to disconnect the front one? Nice video!
Thank you! That's a bummer :( Do you hear it from both speakers? The front speaker should be the red and black wires 2-pin connector right next to the connector of the rear speaker.
@@muteFPV Thanks for replying! I removed the 2 connectors and it turns out that the high frequency sound is not coming from either of the speakers :/ I don't know what could cause that noise.
Sounds like a power regulation / power delivery issue but maybe I am wrong, I have not encountered this. Does the noise change if you plug the USB for charging? Does the noise change if you disable the internal transmitter (or if you remove the external transmitter module, if you are using one)? Can you hear the noise if you remove the battery and plug the data USB at the top (for example to your computer) - this powers some of the components of the radio, for example in mine I can see the backlight of the 6-button array and the gimbal LED illumination rings turn on as well?
@@muteFPV I am using the internal ELRS version without the external module. When I turn off the internal transmitter, the noise goes away, but comes just after I turn it back on. When I change the transmitter power from 10 to 250mW, noise level changes. When I plug the USB data cable without turning the radio on, the 6 position switch turns on with an animation. This whole time my transmitter battery was lower than 7,2 volts, I charged it to 7,5 and the noise is gone now (not totally since I can hear it when I bring my ear close to it, but that's probably normal) I hope the problem won't reappear when the battery goes below 7,2 volts. Thanks for helping!
Still, it remains an inconvenience, especially if you are using 18650 cells which are perfectly fine at 3,6V each. Where did you get it from? Have you contacted them?
nice! great vid!
Thank you very much!
I really miss part 2.0 of your 31mm prop testing! Any chance of you revisiting the whoop format? Also thousand of views waiting for you, everyone stopped testing 31mm 🙂
NewBeeDrone has sent over a lot of awesome whoop-related stuff to test and I will start putting out new tests for micros soon(ish).
@@muteFPV Amazing. So many new props has been coming out over the last 1-2 years, would be amazing to have them tested on the bench. Looking forward!
I am open to suggestions, let me know which props you would like to see tested ;)
@@muteFPV Cool, I emailed you 9 suggestions!
Thank you!
It would be nice if it came with a manual. The quick start paper is very basic with little info. They tell you go to their web 😂site😂 and download manual but the quick start is all I can find. If I wasn’t new to the sport I suppose it would be less obscure.
I also thought they had the manual on their website, at least this is whatI remember
Great content! The manufacture does not include installation instructions with the CNC kit. I would have bought the max version if it were in blue. But because I wanted blue I would have needed to spend $399 for the radio. I bought the CNC kit in blue and the carbon face. I t went well until I had to install the gimble face plate. It is still not installed. I was advised by Radiomaster support to contact marketing to see if they had any information. Really. It is a reeally nice radio. Capable of controlling the 13 helicopters I have. But support for me so far sucks.
I am sorry to hear that, I am very familiar with this radio and I don't realize it when there is lack of information / instructions. You can check my illuminated gimbal rings video, which should help you install your CNC rings!
(and of course feel free to ask me anything if you need help!)
Its so strange they made a case that doesn't fit its newest transmitter. Also doesn't add much protection. I ended going with a pelican knockoff
They do have a pouch that converts the stock foam case to a carrying case, which is cheap and an awesome idea actually. The cases would need to be very thick in order to fit the stock handle so I don't blame them for not doing so. But I agree that these kind of cases are not the best you can get. I personally like the pick'n'pluck cases that you can set them up exactly the way you want.
If you want to watch with captions great, otherwise mute the crazy music
Can't please everyone with my taste :) At least I hope you found the content useful!
After 2 years of using this radio, here are my top 20 things kthat disappoint me about it:
1. If your USB data cable is connected, it won't boot up. Real PITA if you use the sim.
2. There is no voltage protection on the USB ports, meaning you can (and I have) fried out motherboards just connecting the USB-C cable. You're best bet is to kalways connect and disconnect on the UB-A end.
3. Radiomaster 1 year warranty is a joke. They won't repair you radio, but instead refer you to send it to your nearest hobby store who know less than you on repairing it. mostly likely they'll DFU flash it and send it back.
4. USB power cable comes out the bottom. Why? It needs to come out the top.
5. USB charging circuit will only charge up to full, not half way storage foltage and stop. Again, major PITA if you are a sim flyer who likes to leave cables always connected.
6. Ships like most transmitters with the worst stock glass cheap stick ends. These encourage people to become "pinchers" which is the absolutely wrong way to hold the sticks. Replace them immediately as soon as you get your radio with something else. Instead of a rubber keychain and stickers, why not ship with a choice of 3 different stick ends?
6. Six position switch is in a terrible position
7. Should ship with 27700 tray instead of 18660. It's got the space.
8. Just totally lose the multiprotocol module inside, just give us a JR bay with better connector. nobody uses the internal multprtocol module. Why would you, whien anything you can put in the JR bay is better?
9. The stick threads are too short.
10. Using different stick ends, and lowering plates, the sticks will collide with the bottom inside irght face plat corners.
11. Lowering plates should be included with all TX'sin the box, even if they are just palstic.
12. The back grip ribs should be removable.
13. The switches are not the best quality. I had one explode right after buying the TX.
14. There should be some kind of plastic cuard protector protecting all the switches and keeping USB cabl;es from catching on them.
15. Use bolts instead of screws to attach the back plate.
16. There's not a lot of depth to the screws holidng in the gimbals. In fact, if you screw too far your screw will poke through the front of the face plate with a little dimple 😕
17. Vibrating the haptic feedback every X seconds on low battery seems like a bad idea, as it will only drain the battery that much faster...? Probably can be fixed in Open-TX
18. The 4 press menu select buttons are connected by tabs for quick manufactuer to make them one unit... which works fine on the plastic buttons, but if you switch to the metal buttons you will find the tabs keep the buttons to being depressed. Cut the buttons off the tabs and place them in as 4 independently free floating buttons and this will solve the problem of sticking menu buttons.
19. Can I think of two more? Probably but I'd like to mention reviewers who can't fly get hung up on how much improved the slider and POTS detents are now, which are almost absolutely irrelevant. Literally, you will not use these while flying.
20. Instead of listening to input like this and making a decent radio better, they go backwards and release a less capable radio like the Zorro with a tiny screen or TX-12 which is almost a toy.
And that was Choppergirl's 20 things to know about the Radiomaster TX-16.
Soooo, do you like the radio or not?
@@mattmathias8507 It's a mixed bag.
On the down side, all those long switches catch on everything (cables), are rather fragile despite being made of steel (they break internally, I broke one just by gently laying a pillow on top of my radio to keep the dust off)
The data and charging port is not voltage protected, so you have to be super extremely careful with them. The SD card slot will lose your microsd card inside.
It's not idea as a sim radio, and I can't imagine it's ideal to travel with.
On the plus side, there are a lot of after market mods available for it, fromrubber switch covers, stick ends, lowering plates, lighting kits, grip tape, JR bay modules, etc.
And a huge amount of switches and trim switches allow you to clear off the chart funk from your OSD and use verbal reporting via a switch.
SO if you are okay with treating it like glass AND want tons of switches, it's okay.
If you want something you can just jamp in your pocket, backpack, throw on your car seat, or let your kids at home play around with, ti's not okay at all. Kids will tear this puppy up (or so I've heard from people with kids int he house).
@@mattmathias8507 If you want a big radio with tons of switches and big color screen and you enjoy modding your radio and pimping it out with color... and treating it like a Fabrege egg.. then I recommend it.
If you want something you can toss around like a Nintendo controller and not worry about breaking it, and beat it all to death then.. hmm no.
I planned to spend about $160 each on my two radios. What I ended up spending was $400 each on each of them, for a total of about $800. Once you add 2 wattCrossfire and 1watt ELRS JR bay modules, HAL gimbals, and a $70 alluminum color kit.. yeah.
Up until they both worled I was mostly happy with them, even though I way over payed. Wjen one died, and left me with just one working radio and I had spent $800... then yeah, not so much so.
I bought a replacement motherboard, but it's a difficult install with a bunch of ribbon cables. I've been in and out of my radios so many times though I can't count to swap in lowering plates and gimbals and replace that one switch.
If you're looking for your first radio, and can get a used deal on ebay with the Crossfire module bay or ELRS module bay with it, then it would be okay. Otherwise, there's a lot of other options available now. I can't say how good they are versus a TX-16s, as I've only owned the two TX-16s's I have.
How can U possibly work on he back with the sticks and switches resting directly on a table, that certinally can't be good for them esoecially when one hase such a great molded case tha supports the radio when face down. I just cringed when you removed the back cover with one hand and the radio lying on the sticks. OUCH Boss.
OOOPs sorry I should watch the complee video before commenting like the 3D designs at 6:40
Yep, I use gimbal protectors :) or the case itself of course
Strewth some moan that is from choppergirl
should mute the crappy music.
Can't satisfy everyone's taste, you should try it yourself and find out if it is easy or not. Until then, feel free to turn off the volume on your device, all the information you need is in written anyway.
Is it still shipped with the crappiest Micro SD card on the planet?
I forgot to check but it wouldn't surprise me if it does. Most electronics that include a microSD or SD card use generic brands, I suppose I am used to it.
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