INDEX 00:00 intro 00:15 disassembly 01:48 sponsor 02:12 tips 02:42 stick clearance 03:17 gimbal installation 04:41 reassembly 05:54 calibration 06:54 support 👍 PLEASE SUPPORT the MuteFPV channel: ------- 👍 Join my PATREON: mutefpv.com/patreon 👍 Tip my 'piggy bank' via PAYPAL: mutefpv.com/paypal 👍 Save and use these BOOKMARKS before purchasing new goodies (please bookmark the SHORTLINKS in your browser): BANGGOOD: mutefpv.com/banggood AMAZON (ad): mutefpv.com/amazon GETFPV: mutefpv.com/getfpv EBAY: mutefpv.com/ebay ALIEXPRESS: mutefpv.com/aliexpress REELSTEADY: mutefpv.com/reelsteady More info in the video description, as always! THANK YOU
I used the Blue ring led lights that surround the gimbals so I had to use the white plastic spacers. I lose a little bit of movement on the sticks but not much.
Great Videos Sir. Have you given any thoughts to putting the radio in a completely new shell ? - A large tray type with sliders possible and all the switches visible from the top. ( Like a Futaba FC28 or Multiplex 3030 )
Hello, thank you very much! I have thought of a project similar to the Tarango (3d printed wide shell for the Taranis X9D) but I don't have the time to deal with something so much time consuming :(
Hey Mute, I have just sent my ag01 gimbals back. Although the felt fantastic, I fly a lot professionally with cine lifters which requires extremally smooth inputs, especially around the center. The problem with ag01 for me was that you have to push quite hard to get away from the center and moving slowly through center in a smooth panning fashion was almost impossible and you could see it on the cinema camera. They are just so stiff in the center. Is there a way to get rid of the center stiffness without having to loosen the springs all the way? I searched the webs, but nothing so far.
I can't think of something else, other than loosening the springs. The spring's centering force decreases as you get closer to the center so if the springs felt strong when loosened, you could probably try softer springs.
@@muteFPV That's the thing, on the stock gimbals the center feels good and the tension as well, on the fancy ones you kind of can't have both. It;s eather one or the other. I guess it is that way thanks to the greater weight of those bad boys.
Great video, I will end up using this I think. But I'm unsure about the stick clearance? Is there clearance or not? I'm not sure what to make of that section of the video. I think I might get the ag01, it's like the only wintertime upgrade you can get for your simulators. And the FlySky gimbals seems like too much hassle. EDIT: Follow up question, is it possible to make the SF switch momentary like the SH? The switches seems to be paired with another one and not interchangeable?! I feel I really need two momentary switches for simulators as well.
Hello and thank you! I thought it was clear in the video footage - it depends on whether you use the spacer ring / LED kit or not and on the type of gimbal sticks you use (if they are bulkier than stock). With the spacer the bottom left and bottom right positions will definitely touch the shell, most probably the top left/right positions too. Without the spacer, the sticks I used fit just right and are not touching the shell. It is a very big upgrade but pricey. As for the additional momentary switch, I would probably add an extra pushbutton (as in my mods video) instead of replacing one of the stock latching switches with a momentary switch. Or maybe assign one of the throttle trim button positions (up or down) as a momentary switch. Make it simple since it is just for the simulator.
@@muteFPV Thank you for your reply! I got stock TX16S so they will fit just fine then. Yahh they're expensive, but not spending much on the hobby in the wintertime. And it will qualify me for free shipping on my whoop batteries as well :-) With regards to the additional momentary switch: I tried using a trim switch, but I need to look down on my radio each time. I guess it's not that important, but it would still be nice. I think I will order a SF/SE and SH/SG spare part and see if I can move the switch around with my limited solder skills (they are 3 dollars each). If it works I will let you know!
If you get the spare switches that come with the board you can just unplug the old and plug in the new ones (use the momentary on both sides of the radio). I can't remember 100% but the board should fit on either side, without the need for any soldering.
@@muteFPV I'll try just plugging a spare switch in, but left and right side switched doesn't look interchangeable. But the soldering doesn't look too complicated though. Or maybe I should just stop being lazy and flick the switch back manually :p
Hello! I experimented with voice-over in some of my videos but the main purpose of this channel is "muted" content with clear visuals. There is a lot of chatter in other channels, which may suit you more :)
INDEX
00:00 intro
00:15 disassembly
01:48 sponsor
02:12 tips
02:42 stick clearance
03:17 gimbal installation
04:41 reassembly
05:54 calibration
06:54 support
👍 PLEASE SUPPORT the MuteFPV channel:
-------
👍 Join my PATREON: mutefpv.com/patreon
👍 Tip my 'piggy bank' via PAYPAL: mutefpv.com/paypal
👍 Save and use these BOOKMARKS before purchasing new goodies (please bookmark the SHORTLINKS in your browser):
BANGGOOD: mutefpv.com/banggood
AMAZON (ad): mutefpv.com/amazon
GETFPV: mutefpv.com/getfpv
EBAY: mutefpv.com/ebay
ALIEXPRESS: mutefpv.com/aliexpress
REELSTEADY: mutefpv.com/reelsteady
More info in the video description, as always!
THANK YOU
For anyone wondering about clearance I have heard that you can sand down the led plastic plates to the original size to give you more clearance
Outstanding Video just in time since my costume Radiomaster TX16S Max arrived in a few days
Sweet, I am happy to hear! I have plenty of TX16S related videos which you may find useful (in case you haven't watched them already) ;)
Fantastic video, mate! Thanks a lot! 😃
Those gimbals really seem like a fantastic upgrade!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Yep, they are (and feel) awesome :) Thank you very much mate, you too!
thanks so much for the video. i need to it, to put the gimbals when i will order them
Thank you for watching, I hope you liked it :)
@@muteFPV you always make excellent videos. i learn so many things from you
😀👌
I used the Blue ring led lights that surround the gimbals so I had to use the white plastic spacers. I lose a little bit of movement on the sticks but not much.
It must look very cool! 😀
You can sand down the spacers to the original metal spacer height
Great Videos Sir. Have you given any thoughts to putting the radio in a completely new shell ? - A large tray type with sliders possible and all the switches visible from the top. ( Like a Futaba FC28 or Multiplex 3030 )
Hello, thank you very much! I have thought of a project similar to the Tarango (3d printed wide shell for the Taranis X9D) but I don't have the time to deal with something so much time consuming :(
Hey Mute,
I have just sent my ag01 gimbals back. Although the felt fantastic, I fly a lot professionally with cine lifters which requires extremally smooth inputs, especially around the center. The problem with ag01 for me was that you have to push quite hard to get away from the center and moving slowly through center in a smooth panning fashion was almost impossible and you could see it on the cinema camera. They are just so stiff in the center. Is there a way to get rid of the center stiffness without having to loosen the springs all the way? I searched the webs, but nothing so far.
I can't think of something else, other than loosening the springs. The spring's centering force decreases as you get closer to the center so if the springs felt strong when loosened, you could probably try softer springs.
@@muteFPV That's the thing, on the stock gimbals the center feels good and the tension as well, on the fancy ones you kind of can't have both. It;s eather one or the other. I guess it is that way thanks to the greater weight of those bad boys.
@Always Flying what do u mean? As you can see i posted this almost a year ago and forgot long about it... not sure what u are on about.
Great video, I will end up using this I think. But I'm unsure about the stick clearance? Is there clearance or not? I'm not sure what to make of that section of the video. I think I might get the ag01, it's like the only wintertime upgrade you can get for your simulators. And the FlySky gimbals seems like too much hassle.
EDIT: Follow up question, is it possible to make the SF switch momentary like the SH? The switches seems to be paired with another one and not interchangeable?! I feel I really need two momentary switches for simulators as well.
Hello and thank you! I thought it was clear in the video footage - it depends on whether you use the spacer ring / LED kit or not and on the type of gimbal sticks you use (if they are bulkier than stock). With the spacer the bottom left and bottom right positions will definitely touch the shell, most probably the top left/right positions too. Without the spacer, the sticks I used fit just right and are not touching the shell. It is a very big upgrade but pricey.
As for the additional momentary switch, I would probably add an extra pushbutton (as in my mods video) instead of replacing one of the stock latching switches with a momentary switch. Or maybe assign one of the throttle trim button positions (up or down) as a momentary switch. Make it simple since it is just for the simulator.
(please send again, youtube blocked your reply, maybe there was a link in it?)
@@muteFPV Thank you for your reply! I got stock TX16S so they will fit just fine then. Yahh they're expensive, but not spending much on the hobby in the wintertime. And it will qualify me for free shipping on my whoop batteries as well :-)
With regards to the additional momentary switch: I tried using a trim switch, but I need to look down on my radio each time. I guess it's not that important, but it would still be nice. I think I will order a SF/SE and SH/SG spare part and see if I can move the switch around with my limited solder skills (they are 3 dollars each). If it works I will let you know!
If you get the spare switches that come with the board you can just unplug the old and plug in the new ones (use the momentary on both sides of the radio). I can't remember 100% but the board should fit on either side, without the need for any soldering.
@@muteFPV I'll try just plugging a spare switch in, but left and right side switched doesn't look interchangeable. But the soldering doesn't look too complicated though. Or maybe I should just stop being lazy and flick the switch back manually :p
is radio master tx16se(non hall effect gimbal) compatible ?
Yes, you can install the AG01 in all TX16S versions
Good^^ Tx16s ^^
😁
Ditch the music and add some dialogue about what you're doing and you'll have a new subscriber.
Hello! I experimented with voice-over in some of my videos but the main purpose of this channel is "muted" content with clear visuals. There is a lot of chatter in other channels, which may suit you more :)
☆☆☆☆☆