You didn't set the preload in the bearings. Guarantee they didn't get packed properly. After installing the spindle nut, you need to preload to 60ftlbs per the FSM. Then back off to 0 lbs, then tighten to 10 inch lbs.
I've done this service a number of times. You must heavily preload the bearings to like 50-70 Ft LBS/spin the hub (it will be hard at first), release the tension and then repeat to set the bearings back into the races on the hub. There is no way you can get it loaded up properly that with a screw driver you either need the Nissan tool or make one similar. Once they are set, then you can remove all the preload and adjust them to the final setting of initial contact Plus 3-5 lbs approx. If you don't set the bearings they will get loose again.
I used long needle nose pliers to a load the bearings. I think the person that last repacked used this same method and got loose. Hence the need to get it done the bearing had some play. Oh and the inner bearing is probably good and it would have been easier to remove and repack it as well. Very poorly done. 👎👎
And by preload the bearings, you mean what, exactly? You're explaining this in a manner that you assume we have ALL done this a number of times. For someone with a fair amount of experience working on my own vehicles over the years, and this being my first time doing this particular job, I have no fcking idea what you're talking about.
Helpful, thanks. I had some play but when I took off the hub there was no apparent filings, etc so I just tightened the lock by an 1/8th of a turn to eliminate the play. So far so good. At 130k miles I'll still replace both sides when I get time (and since you make it look easy). Question though, did I hear you say you didn't have the "c" clip? I'd forgot to put mine on and was wondering if it mattered for the short run, in 2wd only too.
Hey Jimmy, did you encounter any issues after doing this? I have a low thump/vibration type noise/feel occurring as I drive above 25-30mpg and more noticeable at 40mpg. Since I changed wheel bearings, rotor and brake pads I'm not sure which it can be. I followed what you did and factory manual. Let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks.
Dan W you are supost to use a toque with a special socket but i didnt use it because the bearings are used and have been crushed with new bearings u need to use the toque specs
You make it look easy, like that ring has been off & reinstalled in the not too distant past. It looks like that would normally take a "special tool," but you just screw-drivered it off. It appears to be at least a one hour job that you knocked out in 15 minutes of video time.
All cars have rear wheel bearings. Most of the time you have to replace them as there is no way to grease them on the rear. Some will be lubed from the gear oil in the rear end and others with independent rear axles will have to be replaced.
Probably the bearing play took place because of improper assembly. The stud nut was to be tightened with effort 79-98 HM tool KV4015400. You just twisted it, without adjusting the preload. It is easy to manufacture by yourself www.drive2.ru/l/472482137761644818/
Алексей Марущак. According to ALLDATA you only tighten it to 58-72ft.lbs when replacing the bearings to make sure the inner bearing seats. then losen the so the tourque becomes 0ft.lbs then retighten it with said tool to .05 - 1.5Nm or 13 inch pounds. The wheel bearing preread is at 3lbs. I bought this car last year, that was the 1st time i had removed those hubs I'm assuming you yourself is an automotive technician?
You didn't set the preload in the bearings. Guarantee they didn't get packed properly. After installing the spindle nut, you need to preload to 60ftlbs per the FSM. Then back off to 0 lbs, then tighten to 10 inch lbs.
I've done this service a number of times. You must heavily preload the bearings to like 50-70 Ft LBS/spin the hub (it will be hard at first), release the tension and then repeat to set the bearings back into the races on the hub. There is no way you can get it loaded up properly that with a screw driver you either need the Nissan tool or make one similar. Once they are set, then you can remove all the preload and adjust them to the final setting of initial contact Plus 3-5 lbs approx. If you don't set the bearings they will get loose again.
Peter Tirone you can buy a 2 prong axle tool at napa for $12 works great for setting pre-load
776-9179 is the part number
I used long needle nose pliers to a load the bearings. I think the person that last repacked used this same method and got loose. Hence the need to get it done the bearing had some play. Oh and the inner bearing is probably good and it would have been easier to remove and repack it as well. Very poorly done. 👎👎
And by preload the bearings, you mean what, exactly? You're explaining this in a manner that you assume we have ALL done this a number of times. For someone with a fair amount of experience working on my own vehicles over the years, and this being my first time doing this particular job, I have no fcking idea what you're talking about.
@@DavesWheeling thanks for the part number,appreciate 👋
Helpful, thanks. I had some play but when I took off the hub there was no apparent filings, etc so I just tightened the lock by an 1/8th of a turn to eliminate the play. So far so good. At 130k miles I'll still replace both sides when I get time (and since you make it look easy). Question though, did I hear you say you didn't have the "c" clip? I'd forgot to put mine on and was wondering if it mattered for the short run, in 2wd only too.
little late but i wouldnt because it prevent the axle from pushing in wards, damaging the axle and more parts if it became stuck
I didn't see you install the locking plate that's keyed to the shaft with the two phillip head screws that keep the bearing nut from backing off!
Doesn't show install on vid but if you look closely it's installed at the end with the 2 small Phillips head screws.
Hey Jimmy, did you encounter any issues after doing this? I have a low thump/vibration type noise/feel occurring as I drive above 25-30mpg and more noticeable at 40mpg. Since I changed wheel bearings, rotor and brake pads I'm not sure which it can be. I followed what you did and factory manual. Let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks.
Dan W you are supost to use a toque with a special socket but i didnt use it because the bearings are used and have been crushed with new bearings u need to use the toque specs
You make it look easy, like that ring has been off & reinstalled in the not too distant past. It looks like that would normally take a "special tool," but you just screw-drivered it off. It appears to be at least a one hour job that you knocked out in 15 minutes of video time.
Hi there,
What type of grease and cleaner do you use?
Helio Medina i used high temp napa brand grease
So does this have rear wheel bearings too or just the front?
All cars have rear wheel bearings. Most of the time you have to replace them as there is no way to grease them on the rear. Some will be lubed from the gear oil in the rear end and others with independent rear axles will have to be replaced.
The wind in this video is ridiculous.
Can the lugs separate from the rotor?
Yes they can be separated from the rotor.
Are u running spacers?
So, you used the same greasy gloves from packing that bearing to grease up the rotor. Fantastic job! 🤦♂️
What about rear wheel drive front bearing
where did you get those rotors?
I just want to know what brand they are. Recently purchased some cross-drilled and slotted ones from company called Brakemotive on eBay.
THANK YOU!
Hey Jimmy the 2000 Nissan pathfinder have the same set up Right??
Yes it will have the same setup till 2004.
Is that a 4X4 or 2X4 car?
4x4 SUV
Probably the bearing play took place because of improper assembly. The stud nut was to be tightened with effort 79-98 HM tool KV4015400. You just twisted it, without adjusting the preload.
It is easy to manufacture by yourself www.drive2.ru/l/472482137761644818/
Алексей Марущак. According to ALLDATA you only tighten it to 58-72ft.lbs when replacing the bearings to make sure the inner bearing seats. then losen the so the tourque becomes 0ft.lbs then retighten it with said tool to .05 - 1.5Nm or 13 inch pounds. The wheel bearing preread is at 3lbs. I bought this car last year, that was the 1st time i had removed those hubs
I'm assuming you yourself is an automotive technician?
Yes, but first it was necessary to tighten the hub bearings for shrinkage.
Thanks Jimmy,
Good job
Bro... Jackstands
Clark Bigatel bro watch till the end... 🤦🏼♀️
He does have a jackstand behind the jack...
@@ashleyboytek20 it's got a jack stand but didn't use it.!😏
hi, gg, helpful...
Half the video is about putting grease in the bearings!!
อวอริสอสอีสดชกดีเถิวิยิคืวกวเบิบิบิบเบเบ้
where did you get those rotors?