I almost feel cheated as that was a hub change. No Marty invention to get the bearings out using only a teaspoon and the top of a Coke bottle.... Your videos always brighten up the day. Thank you for making them.
@@mattj630 If I remember correctly there aren't unloaded hubs available. there's no separate bearing race to knock out of the hub assembly to change only a small part.
Marty will never know the joy of living in the rust belt. If I made a video of the last wheel bearing I did it would be like the filming of Apocalypse Now.
I was gonna say same thing, northern WI here. What size bolt is that? Doesn't matter, just hammer the tightest size impact socket you can on rusted nub and get the pipe wrench and than drill and taps and welder ready just in case. This is after a week of presoaking and splash of torch if you are lucky and than get ready to look like you're ready to fight galactic battles with silver surfer after you heavy dose everything you can with anti seize on reassembly and it has now magically covered your whole body and part of interior and somehow got in fridge. Don't even look at the brake lines or exhaust or you will be fixing those as well. First drive rusty piston in brake caliper sticks because you touched it and reheat treats new bearing and you have run out of swear word combos. If you have never spent a whole day on one bolt, you are not a rust belt mechanic.
I've never been interested in mechanics and have (almost) no mechanical abilities, but for some reason I like watching Marty do this stuff. Maybe some day I will attempt something more than an oil change.
I wish I was born like 10 years ago and you were my dad. You seem so relaxed, and you can do almost everything the world throws at you. Cheers / your almost 40 year old kid from Sweden
Excellent video. I drive a fairly similar car and, after watching this video, decided to change the hubs myself when they're up. Thanks for this video, marty.
This brings back so many memories as to when I was raising a family. Needed to fix and learn how to fix items from the house to the auto and all in between. Thanks for sharing and bringing back memories.
Super jealous at the rust free parts! Around here they dump so much salt on the roads in the winter you would have had to torch every last bolt at least to break them loose if not torch them off, then beat the snot out if the bearing to get it out! Awesome job none the less!!!
Its a good thing you had a calibrated 274-365NM extension tube for your T bar, mine only goes up to 250NM. If it had been me trying to do this, I would have spent half the day releasing the drive shaft from the old bearing assembly.
A good common-sense approach to this job. I have seen too many people go into a repair with tunnel vision, not looking at other things that might make more sense to repair at the same time while everything is apart. Thinking ahead to making life easier the next time is always a plus, as well. Thanks for sharing and have a great weekend!
4:29 Lubricating before assembling is a very good practice☝ because most mechanics don't do it and over time it becomes VERY difficult to disassemble metals👍
Great vid, I followed your example and change the front bearing on my pathfinder today. Most was straight forward but those 4 bolts on the inside were a pain. I also seem to have more rust in Scotland than you do. The bearing was actually stuck to the hub. Managed it though 😀
I recently replaced the left front wheel bearing assembly in my 2012 Chevy Colorado. The bottom rear bolt in the back of the 4 bolts really gave me a hard time. After a few skinned knuckles and mashed fingers it finally came out.
A tip I was given to check a wheel bearing that you can’t see any obvious movement or play, is to spin the wheel and with your other hand hold onto the spring and if the bearing is bad you will feel vibration through the spring.
Enjoyed this video bro. Having a complete bearing thing to just pop back in sure saves taking out and banging in new bearings let alone getting covered in grease.Safe travels
Thanks going to give it a try just ordered parts mine sound the same and give a vibration at 95 to 110 so got some play. A mechanical strore wanted over 1 grand in Australia plus parts to do this. Ebay 150 for a set of 2. Have rebuilt everything else in under the arch so easy thanks mate for your video will let you no how i go in a few weeks
How do I get so excited when I see a new marty t video. Maybe its just coming of age , maybe its a dad thing . I dont know but top vid as always marty . Hope you and the family are all well buddy.
Small tip you can put a screw driver in the holes of a vented disc and jam it from turning the wheel instead of putting the wheel back on ,we do it all the time
Done mine today after watching your video...hated every minute of the job....every bolt was totally solid...took me ages 😅 but thanks for the video bro 👍
Another great informative and practical video. Thanks Marty. I did expect to see you replacing the bearings in the hub, but Nissan saved some work. Love your videos.
Marty ya a good mechanic. As a fitter machinist and diesel mechanic i was taught never tighten in a circle always opposing nuts...Top bottom left one top right one repeat..
A quick way to tell which front wheel bearing is noisy is to drive the vehicle in a straight line, turn the wheel to the right and then the left. The noisy bearing will be opposite to the direction you turned the wheel. The reason this works is that the vehicles weight is transferred to the opposite wheel of the vehicles direction, putting the bearings under heavier load. One of many tricks i learned as an apprentice mechanic some 48 years ago. I should add, this test should be done on smooth, traffic empty roads, not Marty dirt tracks.
Only oddball for the Navara, there were slight differences between the various international plants producing them, some parts are different whether they're Spanish-sourced, Thai-sourced, or American-sourced. Ball joints in the UCAs vary as an example. But they're all very similar.
Now you might as well do the other side as preventive maintenance ....my experience with Japanese cars is that have an almost timed failure ..if one side goes the other is not far behind ....in the US those half shafts are cheap enough to also replace at the same time ...again if you already have it apart it saves on labour later
Nice one. The axle nut sets the preload on the bearings, so getting the torque in the right range is really key for a good bearing lifespan. Goldilocks.
I was under the impression that the brg preload was set by the spacer ring between the internal inner and outer hub brg races ... the nut only holds the complete hub assembly to the upright.
Yeah I have a 1/2inch torque wrench but not a 3/4, I can usually get it pretty close to spec so it will be somewhere near the middle of the factory workshop manual torque range
Lucky it was that design! Some other types (especially older designs) are pressed into the steering knuckle with the ABS ring on the outside of the CV joint housing which was easy to damage.
Nice simple video. I’m more partial to the tractor vids myself. I’d like to see the hood for the td9 repaired and put back on. Note if you mig up cracks in hood use a torch to get them red hot and hammer them flat with hammer and dolly before grinding.
Yeah its one of those jobs I was doing anyway so might as well film it, Hopefully some will find it helpful. I don't expect it will go viral.. Good tip on the bonnet thanks.
Great video Marty! Really well explained, demonstrated and filmed. Always concise no bull, (no padding it out with rubbish) 100% USEFUL INFO &tips! Cheers 👍🏴
So I take it the two foot long pipe is your 274 to 364 NM bar and your three foot pipe is 365 to about 450 ...... 🤣🤣 .... Good enough for the bush! Love your vids. Jim Bell (Australia)
Yeah you can get it pretty close to spec by gauging the weight on the bar and judging the distance from the socket to the point of applied weight, also taking into consideration whether the threads are dry or greased
Great video, Marty. Excellent explanations of the steps and recommendations for how to accomplish the task. A couple of thoughts: 1) Is there any concern you'd trigger an airbag doing this job? If so, what step in the process prevented that from happening? 2) Before putting the caliper back on, I'd recommend hitting the rotors with some brake cleaner and a clean rag to remove any residual grease from your gloves.
You can get a very accurate torque on an axle nut if you put your known weight on a lever (breaker bar + length of pipe) at the correct distance from the nut to achieve the torque you require. In the case of this nut, if I stood on the breaker bar 500 mm from the nut with my 74kg it would achieve a torque of 360 NM
Must be nice to live somewhere where you are not fighting rust constantly on everything you work on......unlike here in Denmark, where theres salt on the roads and the climate is pretty harsh on anything made out of metal
Damn Mar tay You are so good you could work in a garage , any garage, any kind of vehicle, hell , anything mechanical, we all hate you, just kidding. Kudos.
Good video. If you own a d40, a impact wrench is by far the best investment to buy if you plan on keeping it for a while ! On my 4th d40 now and almost every one has done a wheel bearing at some point. STX 550 owner now
Marty, if left one was bad, can the right side be that far behind? Just a thought to consider. Always a good day when you are stuck into a project for us to watch.
Brakes yes but not necessarily wheel bearings, quite common for one to fail a few years before the other side goes, maybe due to a heavy impact on that side, poor installation, bad seal etc
That bearing came out way too easy. I've changed several front bearings on several Toyota Prius (know problem) and they are always stuck by galvanic reaction between the Aluminum and Iron components. Congrats.
I really want to send you a Milwaukee 1/2" impact driver, but the shipping would be as much as the product. I picked up a near new used 3/4 unit for 250au. If it can't undo something it will strip or sheer it!
Can you press the old bearing out of the hub and replace it without having to change the whole hub? Did you buy an after market bearing or. OEM? Thanks Marty.
I just wonder, as a clueless woodworker, shouldn't the _nut be loosened half a turn AFTER_ it has been torqued to the specks? (that's how Paul does over at Fab Rats).
it really helps if you had mechanically inclined relatives to mentor (not I)- i almost replaced cv boots one time but didn't have the right tool/socket....and of course necessity the mother of invention, so a poor rural person better than urban rich person.
I guess we live in a real throw away world, whole hub has to be replaced for a noisy bearing . Hope you get something for the old hub at the scrap yard or is this one of those "core" exchange deals?
3:11 - Undo the hex bolt that retains the ABS sensor in the hub rather than disconnecting the sensor cable. Much easier than fighting with those blasted connectors and you are less likely to damage the sensor cable. Ah right so Nissan supply a new sensor cable as part of the new hub assembly. Well that is a bit silly. I bet the existing sensor cable would have been fine.
![Natanael Cano - Amor Eterno [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EO4prCs6WpM/mqdefault.jpg)
I almost feel cheated as that was a hub change. No Marty invention to get the bearings out using only a teaspoon and the top of a Coke bottle.... Your videos always brighten up the day. Thank you for making them.
😂😂
Loaded hubs are cheap for these, but you’re right. Lol
Ditto!
@@mattj630 If I remember correctly there aren't unloaded hubs available. there's no separate bearing race to knock out of the hub assembly to change only a small part.
Marty will never know the joy of living in the rust belt. If I made a video of the last wheel bearing I did it would be like the filming of Apocalypse Now.
Ha ha, we have the same problems here in Scotland, everything is usually corroded and seized, nice when you get one like Martys
As a Scandinavian I strongly relate to this comment.
I was gonna say same thing, northern WI here. What size bolt is that? Doesn't matter, just hammer the tightest size impact socket you can on rusted nub and get the pipe wrench and than drill and taps and welder ready just in case. This is after a week of presoaking and splash of torch if you are lucky and than get ready to look like you're ready to fight galactic battles with silver surfer after you heavy dose everything you can with anti seize on reassembly and it has now magically covered your whole body and part of interior and somehow got in fridge. Don't even look at the brake lines or exhaust or you will be fixing those as well. First drive rusty piston in brake caliper sticks because you touched it and reheat treats new bearing and you have run out of swear word combos. If you have never spent a whole day on one bolt, you are not a rust belt mechanic.
The struggle is real. Torch set is a required tool.
Imagine living somewhere where the roads aren't sprayed with salt 7 months of the year
I've never been interested in mechanics and have (almost) no mechanical abilities, but for some reason I like watching Marty do this stuff. Maybe some day I will attempt something more than an oil change.
I'd suggest changing brake pads, since this is fairly simple and very satisfying. You will get dirty tough!
I wish I was born like 10 years ago and you were my dad. You seem so relaxed, and you can do almost everything the world throws at you.
Cheers
/ your almost 40 year old kid from Sweden
I absolutely love how smart and talented you are, I found your channel back in 2019 and i have been watching ever since, I love your content
That hub came out nice and easy, bit of a bonus really not having roads salted, all the salt in NZ goes on the fush and chups
$6.66
I'd luv to have Kiwi or Aussie Fush-n-Chups right now. Greetings from Chiang Mai 🇹🇭 where some places provide "crisps" in place of Chups.
For those of you that may have missed it, that was 274-364 Newton Marty's on the torque tube.
accurate metric measuring using 1m of 48.3mm scaffold tube shoved over a bar and leant on a bit, but not a lot
"factory specs" 👍😁
Somewhere between 1-2 ugga duggas🤔
Excellent video.
I drive a fairly similar car and, after watching this video, decided to change the hubs myself when they're up.
Thanks for this video, marty.
This brings back so many memories as to when I was raising a family. Needed to fix and learn how to fix items from the house to the auto and all in between. Thanks for sharing and bringing back memories.
Nice job Marty :) When I do this kind of jobs, I like to use the pressure washer first to get the dirt out, less dirt on parts, hands, etc.
You ever walk down the street in front of my house, I'll hand you a cold beer!
Super jealous at the rust free parts! Around here they dump so much salt on the roads in the winter you would have had to torch every last bolt at least to break them loose if not torch them off, then beat the snot out if the bearing to get it out! Awesome job none the less!!!
Nice job, we have a an anagram for navara here in Blighty
Need
Another
Vehicle
And
Roadside
Assistance
😂 this one has had its share of problems, one time it forgot how to change between 2-4wd
Its a good thing you had a calibrated 274-365NM extension tube for your T bar, mine only goes up to 250NM. If it had been me trying to do this, I would have spent half the day releasing the drive shaft from the old bearing assembly.
A good common-sense approach to this job. I have seen too many people go into a repair with tunnel vision, not looking at other things that might make more sense to repair at the same time while everything is apart. Thinking ahead to making life easier the next time is always a plus, as well. Thanks for sharing and have a great weekend!
4:29 Lubricating before assembling is a very good practice☝ because most mechanics don't do it and over time it becomes VERY difficult to disassemble metals👍
Most mechanics forget parts. That's how they end up with bins of bolts. :))
@@aserta unprepared and incompetent mechanics maybe but any mechanic worth a damn knows how to store bolts they remove for reassembly
Meh, when there is some leftover bolts and nuts, car is just lighter and goes faster 😂
@@dot7107 🤣🤣🤣
Is thats a lubricant or some kind of grease ?
Great vid, I followed your example and change the front bearing on my pathfinder today. Most was straight forward but those 4 bolts on the inside were a pain. I also seem to have more rust in Scotland than you do. The bearing was actually stuck to the hub. Managed it though 😀
Chuckling about no parts left over. Nice Friday morning video. Thanks Marty.
He needs a milwaulkee cordless impact wrench- my compact 12v one has incredible power - I’d def be using loctite on those hub bolts
I recently replaced the left front wheel bearing assembly in my 2012 Chevy Colorado. The bottom rear bolt in the back of the 4 bolts really gave me a hard time. After a few skinned knuckles and mashed fingers it finally came out.
I love the fart sound effect you add whenever the grease gun is in the shot.
A tip I was given to check a wheel bearing that you can’t see any obvious movement or play, is to spin the wheel and with your other hand hold onto the spring and if the bearing is bad you will feel vibration through the spring.
Enjoyed this video bro. Having a complete bearing thing to just pop back in sure saves taking out and banging in new bearings let alone getting covered in grease.Safe travels
Must be great to work on vehicles without the curse of winter salted roads, thank you for posting Marty.
I see the barking spiders got into the grease gun again Marty 😂
Thanks going to give it a try just ordered parts mine sound the same and give a vibration at 95 to 110 so got some play. A mechanical strore wanted over 1 grand in Australia plus parts to do this. Ebay 150 for a set of 2. Have rebuilt everything else in under the arch so easy thanks mate for your video will let you no how i go in a few weeks
How do I get so excited when I see a new marty t video. Maybe its just coming of age , maybe its a dad thing . I dont know but top vid as always marty . Hope you and the family are all well buddy.
Small tip you can put a screw driver in the holes of a vented disc and jam it from turning the wheel instead of putting the wheel back on ,we do it all the time
As an automotive professional I have to say:
Very clear and informative video. Safe and tidy craftsmanship. I couldn't have done it better myself!
Done mine today after watching your video...hated every minute of the job....every bolt was totally solid...took me ages 😅 but thanks for the video bro 👍
Thought I was watching Eric O at SMA for a second lol. Great video
Another great informative and practical video. Thanks Marty. I did expect to see you replacing the bearings in the hub, but Nissan saved some work. Love your videos.
Marty ya a good mechanic. As a fitter machinist and diesel mechanic i was taught never tighten in a circle always opposing nuts...Top bottom left one top right one repeat..
Being a mechanic in eastern Canada, I'm offended at how easily that frigging hub fell out of that knuckle, lol
Nice to see I have the same taste in 4x4's as Marty T :D Did this job on my 2006 Navara a couple of years ago.
good work. Don't like the way they made you use a breaker bar on a universal joint, but it is what it is.
A quick way to tell which front wheel bearing is noisy is to drive the vehicle in a straight line, turn the wheel to the right and then the left. The noisy bearing will be opposite to the direction you turned the wheel. The reason this works is that the vehicles weight is transferred to the opposite wheel of the vehicles direction, putting the bearings under heavier load. One of many tricks i learned as an apprentice mechanic some 48 years ago. I should add, this test should be done on smooth, traffic empty roads, not Marty dirt tracks.
Yes I did actually notice this while driving on the road
Hi Marty, just changed the front wheel bearings on my Ford Laser, water always finds it's way in.
I think the grease found its way out of this one
Looks like you guys have a rocket launch tomorrow from Launch Complex 1 over on the Mahia Peninsula. Good Luck!!
I had to change a front hub on a 2wd pathfinder, very similar. Hardest part was getting the stupid ABS cable disconnected it was all caked with dirt.!
Ah, yes. Another great tutorial.😁 I Learned a lot from that video, Marty. I'll call you if I need some wheel work.
No parts left over 🤣🤣 thanks for the content mate!
Another way to get the nut off is as you said with the wheel back on but to then use a jack on the end of the breaker bar.
Nice Job Marty!! I need to put a new cv axle in my old 94 Chevy K1500 pickup. Getting a "thump, thump, thump" when going around curves😁
Just out of the hospital, Marty I swear you put this up just for me to cheer me up. Thank you. ❤️👍🏼
I Hope all is well :)
Very similar to my Nissan Titan, I think the navara is the frontier in NA/CA/SA, so it’s makes sense to have similar designs. Nice job Marty.
Yes it is the Frontier in North American markets. The Mercedes X Classe is also a Nissan Navarra
Only oddball for the Navara, there were slight differences between the various international plants producing them, some parts are different whether they're Spanish-sourced, Thai-sourced, or American-sourced. Ball joints in the UCAs vary as an example.
But they're all very similar.
Now you might as well do the other side as preventive maintenance ....my experience with Japanese cars is that have an almost timed failure ..if one side goes the other is not far behind ....in the US those half shafts are cheap enough to also replace at the same time ...again if you already have it apart it saves on labour later
Nice one. The axle nut sets the preload on the bearings, so getting the torque in the right range is really key for a good bearing lifespan. Goldilocks.
I was under the impression that the brg preload was set by the spacer ring between the internal inner and outer hub brg races ... the nut only holds the complete hub assembly to the upright.
Nah - it’s based on how long the bit of pipe is on the end of the socket wrench multiplied by a precise amount of oomph 😀
@Steve Jacobs Thats what I figured, the factory workshop manual torque range is quite broad
Yeah I have a 1/2inch torque wrench but not a 3/4, I can usually get it pretty close to spec so it will be somewhere near the middle of the factory workshop manual torque range
@@stejac51 Yes. +1. Other than hypoid pinion, lathe headstock and a few other isolated instances preloading is bogus.
Great Video Marty, I envy your skills mate, well done!
Lucky it was that design! Some other types (especially older designs) are pressed into the steering knuckle with the ABS ring on the outside of the CV joint housing which was easy to damage.
Never took you as the type of man to fancy rebadged Passats...
Nice simple video. I’m more partial to the tractor vids myself. I’d like to see the hood for the td9 repaired and put back on. Note if you mig up cracks in hood use a torch to get them red hot and hammer them flat with hammer and dolly before grinding.
Yeah its one of those jobs I was doing anyway so might as well film it, Hopefully some will find it helpful. I don't expect it will go viral.. Good tip on the bonnet thanks.
Great video Marty! Really well explained, demonstrated and filmed. Always concise no bull, (no padding it out with rubbish) 100% USEFUL INFO &tips!
Cheers 👍🏴
Another well-done job Marty
I wish you best of luck dealing with this. We also have major slides here in Alberta Canada.
It’s Marty’s Midday Mechanical Madness time again guys! Yes! 👍😉😂
So I take it the two foot long pipe is your 274 to 364 NM bar and your three foot pipe is 365 to about 450 ...... 🤣🤣 .... Good enough for the bush! Love your vids. Jim Bell (Australia)
Yeah you can get it pretty close to spec by gauging the weight on the bar and judging the distance from the socket to the point of applied weight, also taking into consideration whether the threads are dry or greased
Great video, Marty. Excellent explanations of the steps and recommendations for how to accomplish the task.
A couple of thoughts:
1) Is there any concern you'd trigger an airbag doing this job? If so, what step in the process prevented that from happening?
2) Before putting the caliper back on, I'd recommend hitting the rotors with some brake cleaner and a clean rag to remove any residual grease from your gloves.
Great job doing the wheel bearing.
Nice one Marty, just one nit pick, use impact sockets..if you have them :)
You can get a very accurate torque on an axle nut if you put your known weight on a lever (breaker bar + length of pipe) at the correct distance from the nut to achieve the torque you require.
In the case of this nut, if I stood on the breaker bar 500 mm from the nut with my 74kg it would achieve a torque of 360 NM
Yeah thats pretty much how I work it out
That's 370NM, or have i missed something? (I just multiplied the mass by the distance (in meters).
@@MiniLuv-1984 I guess Paul calculated with 9,81 m/s^2
@@justus5064 I did miss something! Thanks Justus. That makes it 362.97NM - good enough!
Holy shit that's some clever stuff
You always make it look so easy.
Marty needs a new jack for Christmas.....
Must be nice to live somewhere where you are not fighting rust constantly on everything you work on......unlike here in Denmark, where theres salt on the roads and the climate is pretty harsh on anything made out of metal
And u doesn't have even winter, welcome to Fin...
Sombody give this man a torque wrench - he deserves one.
I've got a 1/2in drive torque wrench but not a 3/4.. I can usually get it pretty close to spec by feel
The scissor jack I used when I was rallying had a 19mm bolt welded on so we could rattle the car up in 3 secs.
Awesome video. glad that you caught it before it broke. love watching your videos. :)
Damn Mar tay You are so good you could work in a garage , any garage, any kind of vehicle, hell , anything mechanical, we all hate you, just kidding. Kudos.
there's so much great information in this video, but the reason I hit the 'like' button: the extra fart sounds.
Still some life left in the old girl yet! 🤩👍🏻
Good video. If you own a d40, a impact wrench is by far the best investment to buy if you plan on keeping it for a while ! On my 4th d40 now and almost every one has done a wheel bearing at some point. STX 550 owner now
Thanks for reminding me I need to do this to my Rodeo this weekend
Marty, if left one was bad, can the right side be that far behind? Just a thought to consider. Always a good day when you are stuck into a project for us to watch.
Brakes yes but not necessarily wheel bearings, quite common for one to fail a few years before the other side goes, maybe due to a heavy impact on that side, poor installation, bad seal etc
That bearing came out way too easy. I've changed several front bearings on several Toyota Prius (know problem) and they are always stuck by galvanic reaction between the Aluminum and Iron components. Congrats.
Yes I was surprised it wasn't stuck in there
I've done so many of heating and beating I finally invested in a hub tamer, lots easier now. Still a bitch, but it's a bit easier
Marty, your torque wrench is the same kind that I have
I need to do the same job on my Honda Accord. The bearings are starting to complain about 200K+ miles.
Another great repair Marty t .
Great Wheel Bearing Maintenance - Job well done ! Cheers from Australia !!!!
All it means when you have left over parts is, you created a more efficient system 😂😂😂
Thanks for sharing Marty 🇦🇺🦘👍
Great channel Always interesting and diverse content
Easy! Nice job. That an old Audi A6 hiding in the back there? What’s the story there?
I might do a vid on that soon ;)
Good job 👍👍👍Thank you for sharing. Take care of yourself, be safe, and healthy 🇨🇦
I really want to send you a Milwaukee 1/2" impact driver, but the shipping would be as much as the product.
I picked up a near new used 3/4 unit for 250au. If it can't undo something it will strip or sheer it!
Can you press the old bearing out of the hub and replace it without having to change the whole hub? Did you buy an after market bearing or. OEM? Thanks Marty.
Aftermarket.. Yeah you can but it was quite urgent and I found it easier to buy the hub online rather than hunting down the bearings in town
Excellent video, thanks for the tips.
I’ll definitely do my own on our D40. Cheers mate
I enjoy all of your videos man keep up the good work
I just wonder, as a clueless woodworker, shouldn't the _nut be loosened half a turn AFTER_ it has been torqued to the specks? (that's how Paul does over at Fab Rats).
Not this type
@@MartyT Thx
"No parts left over". This doesn't happen to me; I normally have a few spare washers at least. 😐
Marty has that Nissan got a Renault engine.
Its a Nissan yd25, not a bad engine
it really helps if you had mechanically inclined relatives to mentor (not I)- i almost replaced cv boots one time but didn't have the right tool/socket....and of course necessity the mother of invention, so a poor rural person better than urban rich person.
I have never had a vehicle where a worn wheel bearing tossed a leg out, all my life. Been lucky i guess? LoL. Bob LH.
4:23 I've got the same barking spiders around my place, darn things are EVERYWHERE
You should have one part left over the old one :) hahaha Good Job.
Just a foot note i would use the old wheel hub as a welding table if you put a flat plate on it 300mm x 300mm for small jobs on your bench.
Bearing wholesale’s bearings, good stuff
I guess we live in a real throw away world, whole hub has to be replaced for a noisy bearing . Hope you get something for the old hub at the scrap yard or is this one of those "core" exchange deals?
Nice job Mate, always look forward to seeing your videos. Take care and be good. 👍
I like the torque wrench. I have a similar looking one 😂😂
Hi dude! The funny part is when you bay shits in the woods? Totally fan Sweden 🇸🇪
3:11 - Undo the hex bolt that retains the ABS sensor in the hub rather than disconnecting the sensor cable. Much easier than fighting with those blasted connectors and you are less likely to damage the sensor cable.
Ah right so Nissan supply a new sensor cable as part of the new hub assembly. Well that is a bit silly. I bet the existing sensor cable would have been fine.