Water Heater - Drain Valve | Repair and Replace
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2024
- How do I replace a leaking drain valve? In this episode of Repair and Replace, Vance shows how to replace the drain valve in a gas or electric water heater. If there is water leaking from the threads or out of the drain valve body, then the valve should be replaced. Also if your drain valve is made from plastic, then it is prone to crack. Overall its best to install a brass drain valve.
Buy water heater repair parts online: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Ho...
*Note* To do a back-flush make sure you open the cold water, not the hot water tap as shown at 2:46.
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Water Heater Maintenance Guide • Gas Water Heater - Mai...
How do gas water heaters work? Learn about the basic operation, safety features and the differences between conventional and electronic gas valves in this video: • How Do Gas Water Heate...
Water Heater Troubleshooting and Repair Guides: • Water Heater Troublesh...
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00:00 Intro
00:40 What You'll Need
01:10 Disconnect the Water Heater
01:50 Drain the Tank
02:19 Water Not Draining?
03:31 Flush the Tank
04:10 Remove the Drain Valve
05:16 Install the Drain Valve
06:02 Refill the Tank
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AMRE Supply provides homeowners, service contractors, and property management with the parts and knowledge needed to get the best performance out of any property. Stocking the largest selection of appliance parts, heating, plumbing, lighting, and janitorial supplies, AMRE ships almost anywhere in Canada within 24 - 48 hours. Expert help is available online, over the phone or in person at one of the many locations across Canada.
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CAUTION changing the plastic valve is not for the faint of heart on an electric water heater. The valve is far deeper than the gas heater shown in this video, lower to the floor and it presents a great challenge to remove when it breaks off. This video is well done, and the removal process works, it is just a difficult job to do on an electric unit.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experience. There will always be some variation between models and some will be more challenging than others. We are focusing on appliance repair videos but we would like to return to this and update the troubleshooting and repair to include electric water heaters and power vent models.
This video belongs at a trade school. The production value is impressive.
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good information! We have a small but very dedicated team that allows us to dive deep into series such as this 48 video series on Ovens and Stoves: ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt We are getting close to releasing a 75 video series on refrigeration repairs with the same level of quality!
Just bought a new Rheem water heater. The unit has a plastic valve on it and this is helpful in showing how to prepare for upgrading to a brass valve.
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to share some good info. You can't go wrong installing a brass valve!
@@AmreSupply agreed! Home Depot sold an aftermarket for $9. I call that cheap insurance. The number one negative review I saw on the Rheem unit was a failure of the plastic valve. Since this is going in my ceiling, I would rather not take the chance.
Thanks for a great video course on this subject. I particularly like what you offered on removing a plastic valve. After having had a plumber install a full bore ball valve with a straight-through design on our older water heater, I now want one on our other water heater. Your explanation and presentation were superb.
You're welcome, we're glad that you found the video helpful! When writing scripts for our videos we definitely try to include well rounded detail as we know how something like a broken or clogged valve can turn a simple repair into something more intense. The full port ball valve is definitely a good way to go and is so simple to make!
Wow, just watched a short video on this, and I thought, " great, short and to the point" but then I watched yours, and loved the "opening of a faucet", and how to tell when the tank is full. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! We try to add these small details to make the job easier!
Thanks Vance. Very informative. You make this look very easy. I have a leaky plastic valve and was always worried that it will break when I twist it out. I will put in a brass valve soon. Thanks again.
You're welcome Brenden, we're glad that you found the video helpful! Yes plastic is quite prone to breaking but even if it breaks its not too bad to remove it and cut it out following the steps in the video.
This is the best video on this I've ever seen, I actually understand what i'm doing and it shows the valve type that needs turned with a screwdriver.
Thank you, we're glad that you found it helpful!
Oooohhhh thank you so much for saving me a lot of time and money! Ordering a brass drain valve to replace the plastic one at the very moment. And now I know how to install it! Fingers crossed I do it right when the part arrives :)
You're welcome Barb, we're glad that the video helped you out! Best of luck with the repair!
Thank you for demonstrating and giving all details on how to drain the heating water and tanks
You are a good teacher!!!
You're welcome Richard, we're just happy to help!
The step by step was very helpful to replace my old plastic drain valve. Luckily my plastic valve did not break but it was a challenge to get off. Thank you so much!
You're welcome, we're glad that the video helped you out!
Great tip on if the plastic one breaks off. That’s exactly what happened to me and your trick worked.
We're glad that those tips helped you remove the broken plastic valve!
Thanks to this video, I was able to replace the drain valve on my own. Thank you
You're welcome! We're happy to hear that it was a successful repair!
Hi Vance: outstanding video! -- many thanks! And Stan in your Mississauga store was very helpful. After weighing the pros and cons of brass and plastic, I went with the nipple-valve-adapter combo, which took only 10 minutes to make. The whole job took four hours start-to-finish, including a 45-minute run to the store for a keyhole saw, as the old valve was plastic and broke off in the opening. (It was burned black on the outside after 15 years' contact with 140F metal -- so grotty.) I also wasted two hours while the water dribbled out like molasses, before I thought to release the vacuum just below the cold-supply valve. If I did the job again, knowing what I know now, it would take an hour. Oh well, first you get good, then you get fast. It needed five flushes for the water to come out clear. On the first flush, it was black -- yikes! So hats off and thanks again to you and the rest of the folks at AMRE Supply. (Next job -- install a new anode rod. After 15 years, it's a good bet that there's no aluminum left to sacrifice.)
You're welcome Joe! Thank you for sharing your experience! We're glad that the video helped you with the draining, flushing and the valve replacement. It can definitely can take a while to drain but now that you have a ball valve installed it should drain more quickly in the future. If you're going to replace the anode rod, we also have a video showing how to do that: ruclips.net/video/hTJv67imgaE/видео.html Cheers!
Excellent video and advice!! I watched a few other vids before this and advice for broken plastic valve was heater no good have to get another. That was from a guy claiming to be a pro!! Watched this one and today broke my plastic drain valve and with patience and confidence that it's possible to fix from watching this I got it done!! Hacksaw blade , screwdriver and needle nose pliers!!! Awesome video!!!
Thank you Gordon, we're glad that the video helped you out! A broken plastic valve can definitely take a little bit of work to remove but its good that you stuck with it and was able to remove it. Cheers!
Excellent guide, a real lifesaver and MONEY SAVER 👍 I am so thankful and grateful to find this resource to fix my issue with the drain valve leak on my water tank. As a bonus, I now know how to flush my water tank for regular maintenance to prolong the life of my water heater. Thank you for sharing this solution🙏
You're welcome Roni, we're just happy to help! Cheers!
Thank you !!! The back flush trick got things moving 👍🏽
You're welcome, we're glad that the back flush did the trick!
Thanks especially for the part about removing a broken plastic valve.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! We added the section about plastic valves since it's one of those things that people might get stuck on especially since it's more common than one might think.
Thanks so much that's exactly the problem im having . Leaking now I see how to replace thanks again 🙌
You're welcome! We're so glad you found the video helpful!
Great Video. I was able to change the drain valve my self. I had a plastic valve and it broke off like you mentioned in the video. Replaced it with metal one and its perfect now.
Thank you Arif, we're glad that the video helped you get your water heater back up and running!
I'm so glad I found your video!! This is valuable information!!!❤
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
Thank you so much! This is exactly what I needed in an emergency this morning.
You're welcome, we're just glad that it helped!
Wonderful Video. Very Helpful Explanations. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
You saved me. I was kicking somelaundry along my basement floor because my hands were full and the plastic drain valve apparently was in my way when I kicked and it came flying off my wate heater. Water was spraying out all over my basement and I had no idea what to do. Thanks to your video I was able to fix the situation myself. I appreciate you!
You're welcome, we're glad that the video helped you out! A broken plastic drain valve is never fun as that is a lot of water to clean up.
Excellent instructions on this video. Thanks for the help!
You're welcome Kevin! We're glad that you found it helpful!
I had a sleepless night after noticing leaky water heater, much worried that the basement will be full of water if the things goes the other way.
I searched some videos in the morning and found your instructions of how to fix leaky drain valve. I am getting ready to take the challenge.
Will update when i am done.
Thanks for the excellent video.
Thanks for sharing your experience. We're glad that the video was helpful. Best of luck on the replacement!
Thanks! Very easy to follow!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thank you Sir. Now to try it myself! lol Nothing ever goes right!
You're welcome Geoff! You've got this, but you are right that a lot of repairs don't go as smoothly as it seems on a video. For example these drain valves can be tricky to unscrew as calcium builds up and sticks to the threads.
Thank you! helped me fix it today 🙏🏽
Glad it helped!
I appreciate your videos.
Thank you Arijit! We're glad the videos are helpful!
Very good for instruction. Thanks
You're welcome Thanh, we're glad you found the video helpful!
Awesome videos. Thanks very much!
Glad you like them!
Think you should have done a video with actual plastic valve so people with this actual problem could understand their situation better!
Hi Stan, thank you for watching! We decided to combine both into a single video as the repair is no different, with a plastic valve you'd use a wrench to loosen it just like if one started with a brass valve. We specifically kept the section in showing how to remove a broken plastic valve as we know it would happen to some people. Hopefully you still found this video helpful!
@@AmreSupply I did find it helpful I'm a first time home owner bought my home back in 2004 and had to replace the water tank that was in the him when I bought it the new tank just started leaking at the bottom don't think it's been 10 years since I put it in maybe 7 I checked it like you explained in your video and the plastic valve is leaking at the bottom of the new tank tried draining it its clogged with settlement so when I get the new brass valve I will do the reverse flow like you explain in your video to break up the settlement blockage and drain the tank!
One thing I did learn over the years from the time I put the new tank in how hot the water was very hot and over the 7 years it got less hot which is when the settlement started building up on the bottom of the tank so the water didn't get as hot because of the settlement build up on the bottom of the tank the first two or three years the hot water was hot hot now I know why it decreased over the years!
I'm gonna set a yearly reminder on my cell phone so I can drain the tank out once a year to keep up with the maintenance of the tank thanks for your help with the video helped me big time I learned a lot!
@@stanwilliams7871 Thanks! Its always good to set reminders for yearly maintenance. If you haven't installed the brass valve yet, then it would still be good to put the full ball valve as shown at 3:18 , it will make draining and maintenance easier. The basic valves have a screw that you tighten, that pushes a rubber stopper over the valve. Sediment can get caught under the rubber stopper which will prevent a good seal. The ball valve will prevent that issue from happening again.
@@AmreSupply have not installed it yet but I will pick up that valve you suggested thanks again!
@@AmreSupply hello I couldn't find that valve setup no where so far Home Depot or Menards does not have it do you know of a place I can order all 3 pieces I need?
thanks for the lead. I have compromised floor and drywall and a cap didn't stop the drip.
You're welcome!
great video. fixed my water tank leak, thanks, eh!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
@@AmreSupply my tank is working perfectly. thx.
lovely video sir
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info!
Great vid!
Thank you Luke!
Good video thank you..!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thank you so much for a complete video. I just replaced my plastic drain valve with a metal one. It works great! However, I have one question...I have just a small leak now because it probably needs to be tightened more BUT I'm worried if I try to turn it one full time around it either won't go, or I'll damage something, or the faucet part will be facing up. I used tape and did about 4 times around. Should I have used something else to stop it from from that tiny drip? Should I have used more teflon tape? Thanks!
Thanks for watching. If the valve is leaking from the threads then it might be worth unscrewing and cleaning up the threads with a wire brush. Also inspect the threads to see if there is any corrosion or damage. After that reapply the thread tape, (4 - 6 times around is fine) screw in the drain valve again and tighten it. If you feel like you can still turn the drain valve without excessive force, then it will likely still be able to tighten another full revolution until the valve is aligned.
Thank you!
You're welcome David! Thanks for watching!
Very talented 👏
Thank you!
Thank you so much!
You're very welcome!
Thank you for the tutorial. Only one issue with the video - when you showed how to backflush the tank to clear any drain blockage you opened the HOT water faucet. You should have opened the COLD water faucet instead.
Thank you for watching! You have a good eye and that is one error that made it into the final video. Sometimes what looks visually good while filming, creates continuity problems that go unnoticed until after filming is complete. Unfortunately we can't change that shot now without deleting the video, but hopefully people are able to intuitively figure that out while doing a backflush.
My brass drain plug screws into white exposed threaded part. The white plasrtis cracked and leakind. State Water heater from 2010. Whe i take out metal drain, does the plastic cracked part have to be replaced? Can a new metal longer drain plug work?
Thanks for watching. Being here in canada, those models are not common so I can't speak to that directly.
Do you mean that your brass drain plug connects to a threaded plastic spacer piece and the plastic piece is also threaded into metal threads on the tank?
If the plastic piece is part of the threaded connection, then a crack might result in a leak.
If your tank has metal threads directly on the tank, then a brass valve with a longer stem would work.
thank you so much
You're welcome Tj!
I appreciate you video. I have a hot water heater drain valve that resembles the Rheem Protech except it is on a GE hot water heater. This valve will not drain water when I try to open it. Is there an instructional video for this particular Rheem Protech valve? Would the procedure be similar to that involved with the valve in the above video?
HI Maxitikos, thank you for watching. We're glad you're finding the video helpful. The steps covered in this video are similar to all drain valves in brass or plastic. If you look closely all drain valves will have at least 2 flat sides that you can get a wrench on to unscrew it. Now if your drain valve isn't draining any water even when it is opened all the way then its likely that it is plugged with sediment. Its always best to drain the tank before replacing the drain valve. To unclog the drain valve, place a bucket under the drain and use a coat hanger or wire to break up the sediment.
@@AmreSupply Thank you, will using a coat hanger or wire damage the valve? Maybe I can unclog the valve without having to replace it.
@@Maxitikos Most valves will use a rubber seat that is what seals the valve. The rubber seat can be damaged with the hanger if you are not careful. As well the rubber can degrade over time so its best to test the drain valve to make sure it can close and make a good seal.
thanks your video
You're welcome!
Found it leaking right before bed and a while later, I'm going to sleep and will check on it when I wake up.
Thanks for watching. Was the drain valve still leaking? Did you have to replace it?
@AmreSupply it was still leaking and had to replace it. Unfortunately, the feed valve was leaking too and ended up quickly swapping the old and new with water spraying momentarily. The new valve stopped the leak and we're good.
Nice video. A question concerning draining the tank.
Our water heater is in the basement, and the basement does not have an inside drain.
Also, the problem with simply attaching a hose to the drain valve is that the only way out of the basement would involve the hose passing several feet above the top of the water heater (in short, the tank wouldn’t simply drain through the hose).
Do you have any suggestions about draining the tank in this case?
Or am I just stuck with toting the (50 or so gallons of) water out of the basement “one bucket at a time”?
Thanks
Thanks for watching. Without buying a small transfer pump, the only way would be to manually move the water in buckets.
Hot water and plastic seats are not a good combination...use brass replacements when possible. Cracked seats make washer replacements a loss. The old one took a medium sized vise grip and a long board to use as leverage off the ground to push the vise grip up. I loosened it with the weight of the water in the tank and then drained and fully removed. I found a short 3/4 MIP brass valve at Menards SKU: 6851688 for about 8 bucks that was the same size as my 10 year old envirotemp drain valve. I can't believe the valve they use on the water heaters today. I got my water heater at Lowes with a small dent for $179 open box off the showroom floor and I figured it was pretty cheap, but now they sell for over 400 with the same plastic drain valves.....wow.
Thanks for sharing your experience. This is exactly why we recommend buying a brass valve or installing a brass ball valve.
Awesome awesome awesome.
Thank you Peter!
I would like to try to dissolve a few pounds of built up lime sediment, if there is a large amount. Some people disconnect the hot out connection and pour in a couple gallons of vinegar and let it sit for up to 8 hours, then try flushing out a slushy mess of crud, adding more vinegar, if necessary. Any thoughts on the vinegar treatment ? Bob
Thanks for watching. Vinegar is a common and an effective way to help clean out sediment, the steps that you outlined should work!
Now when we're finished, Do we put the knob from pilot setting back to the original setting after we light it
Thanks for watching! Yes after you re-light the pilot, turn the dial to the original setting.
I've read some guides recommending a dielectric nipple versus just a plain brass one. What are your thoughts on that? Thank you.
Thanks for watching. Galvanic corrosion can occur in certain conditions but a healthy anode rod will reduce any corrosion of the brass valve. Teflon tape or pipe joint compound will add a slight bit of protection as well between the threads. Also keep in mind that the factory installed pressure relief valves are also made out of brass. If you are installing a custom ball valve, then you can definitely use a dielectric nipple for extra protection.
@@AmreSupply Thank you for the quick and informative reply!
@@captainstress You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
When you are using the washer hose to back flush, is your water supply back on?
Thanks for watching. When draining the water heater, only the cold supply valve above the tank needs to be shut off. The main water supply valve in your home can stay open. When you back flush you'll open the faucet that the washer hose is connected to.
Thanks
You're welcome!
I have a old Richmond 9G50-40F1 water heater with a plastic drain - straight-thru axial type - not what you show here. I can remove the center rotating part with the garden hose fitting. The rubber o-ring and flat washer are worn. Can I just order a replacement o-ring and flat washer instead of replacing the entire drain valve? There is no visible sediment blockage after removing the center part of the drain. I was able to insert a wire and long screwdriver into the tank.
Thanks for watching. Its hard to say how effective replacing the o-ring would be on different drain valves. For peace of mind it is often best to install a new one, and for most usability a full port ball valve is the way to go.
I have the leaky plastic valve but it only leaks when I open it. Rite behind the big knob so I can’t see exactly. Should b fun draining it’s on the main level. It’s 20 y o so maybe I’ll replace the wft n do the valve first if it’s plastic too. Any other ideas ??
Thanks for watching. Those plastic valves often have a small rubber stopper inside. That rubber can deteriorate causing it to leak. That is fixable with a new valve. Alternatively if the valve leaks from around the threads then just make sure that the threads are clean before installing a new valve.
The pilot light alone will not heat the tank, so turning the gas selector to pilot light only is sufficient.
Thanks for watching. You are right that turning it down to pilot will work for this. Turning off the gas and shutting it off is just an additional safety precaution we have added to most repairs in this series.
How to connect the washer machine hose. My washer machine is in the first floor and my water heater is in the basement?
Thanks for watching. Draining the tank requires just a standard garden hose. To do a back flush the garden hose that you're using to drain the tank needs to be able to screw into a threaded faucet somewhere in your home. The washing machine hose will have the right connections that will be able to connect between a threaded faucet and the garden hose. In some cases a threaded faucet might be too far away so a back flush might not be possible.
What can be used to put that plastic seal back on?
Thanks for watching. The ring doesn't need to be removed to do the repair but If you manage to find a replacement plastic ring, some might just snap into place around the drain valve. In other cases you can always use an epoxy to help secure the ring.
@@AmreSupply thanks for the quick response! I simply put the ring in first then the new valve and and the new valve held it in place.
So would the replacement valve be a relief valve, or drain valve.
Thanks for watching. If the drain valve is leaking or is broken then you'll want to replace it with another drain valve which is used as a utility. These are different than a relief valve which is designed specifically as a safety device. You can learn more about the relief valve here: ruclips.net/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/видео.html
@@AmreSupply thanks for the quick response! I was confused on the difference between the two but realized the relief valve was on top of my heater.
I bought this water heater ruclips.net/user/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
Thanks for watching.
We just hooked a hose to our drain valve to add hot water to a pool. The water isn't hot, but we still have hot water in the house. No other hot water heaters. How can that be?
Thanks for watching. One thing to keep in mind is that the dip tube (that fills the tank with cold water) releases the water to the bottom of the tank so that the burner can heat it up.
You can see this in action here: ruclips.net/video/BHUPFLbb8NY/видео.html
If you've used a bit of hot water already, then the bottom of the tank will be full of cold / luke warm water. If you just wait, then the tank should heat the rest of the water and you should be able to drain hot water from the drain valve.
My drain valve does not have hose connection. What is an alternative?
Thanks for watching. Does your drain valve have any threads at all or just a smooth spout?
If there are no threads then draining the tank will be slow as you'll need to fill and empty a container dozens of times.
Maybe I’m stupid but if I remove my plastic drain thing won’t all the water pour out? My plastic drain thing has worn threads and nothing will attach to it. How do I drain the tank so it doesn’t go on the floor?
Thanks for watching. If you are unable to attach a garden hose to the drain then you can drain into a small bucket which you'll have to manually empty dozens of times. This will take a while but it will ensure that the water is drained.
There are some people who will do a drain valve replacement with a full tank while in an air lock, but if the valve doesn't unscrew correctly there's more of a chance of a big mess.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Green is a pretty happy color, it's everywhere in nature.
Now I need help.
I installed a new drain valve on my in law, an uncle that used to work as plumber (not licensed) told her that now that I change it, is couple more weeks and the boiler will explode because I did it.
Smh, now they had a dilemma about what I did.
This obviously is not true right?
Thanks for watching. The drain valve is not open when the water heater is running. It is not a safety device and does not open unless a user needs to drain water. This will not cause the water heater to explode.
The pressure relief valve (also known as a T&P valve) is a safety device and will open when the pressure or temperature gets too high. If this valve is stuck closed then the water heater does not have a way of safely discharging water when the pressure is too high. If you're curious on how this works, this video explains more: ruclips.net/video/d7SYbOgAYhc/видео.html
It would be a problem if you removed the pressure valve and installed a drain valve
@@21keys27 no just the drain one, I didn’t touch the pressure valve at all. Now the problem is turn on and stays on for 10-15min with yellow/orange flame and then turns off, is been that for 3 days now
@@jjhonnz It would be worth cleaning the burner assembly and the flame arrestor screen: ruclips.net/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/видео.html
You can see how to remove the burner assembly in this video: ruclips.net/video/Mx6rZA9Yxv4/видео.html
How long is that ¾ in NPT Brass nipple?
Thanks for watching. The one used in the video is 2-1/2" which should be enough to clear in cases where the tank wall / insulation is more thick.
If the water heater tank it’s made of carbon steel. Why would they add brass fittings to it, wouldn’t that cause galvanic corrosion?
Thanks for watching. Galvanic corrosion can happen but with a healthy the anode rod, any corrosion on the valves is going to be negligible. The benefits of using a brass valve are pretty clear as plastic valves are more prone to cracking and leaking.
What happens if you accidentally knock a little piece of broken plastic into the tank that you can't get out?
Thanks for watching. A small plastic piece is not much different than a having a chunk of sediment at the bottom of the tank. It will settle to the bottom and is unlikely to create any issues.
SO...the drain valve is NOT welded on to the pipe?? Mine has corrosion on the thread (hard water.)
Thanks for watching. The drain valve is never welded to the tank but when there is corrosion the threads can start to fuse together making it feel like its welded. Sometimes you just need a bit more leverage to help break it loose. If it wont turn you can add a piece of pipe as an extension to increase the leverage.
@@AmreSupply THANX! I also have a water softener filter box that is corroded shut. I have tried a strap wrench-everything. Maybe if I squirt some white vinegar in there?
@@drpoundsign Yes some vinegar and a wire brush can help clean the threads. Sometimes its best to let the vinegar sit for a little bit to soak in. As well you can always adding some heat as long as you don't overdo it.
Informative video. My only comment is that draining the tank DEFINATELY takes longer than half an hour. This isn't a quick project, allow yourself a whole day to do this right
Thanks for watching. You are right that its always a good idea to give yourself more time for the project and not rush it. It can definitely take hours if there is a significant build up of debris.
@@AmreSupply I believe I had build up that caused it to drain slowly. The step of using the cold water flush to agitate the sediment worked and it eventually flowed free. Thank you for the helpful video!👍
@@samsamsamsamsamanilla5281 You're welcome Brent, we're glad the cold water flushed worked in your case! Those are the little details that we try to include in all our videos. Cheers!
This is only for replace…. Do you have a repair video?
Thanks for watching. We called the series Repair and Replace, as these repairs often require replacing some components. We did not make a video on how to repair a faulty or leaking drain valve as these are not easily repaired and its often best to install a new drain valve.
I have a metal drain valve that will not turn so that I can drain the tank. What to do?
Hi Jeff, overtime the drain valve might start corroding inside. If you have a brass valve similar to the one in the video that needs a screwdriver to open then it might take a bit more force to break it loose especially if it hasn't been opened in years. You can use anything long and flat to get more leverage to help get it started. Once it starts turning you can use the screwdriver to finish opening it.
Puedes hacer un video en español porfavor
Thanks for watching. We are based in Canada so our focus is on making videos in English. Gracias por ver. Nuestra base está en Canadá, por lo que nuestro objetivo es hacer videos en inglés.
I once had a contractor almost sell me a whole new water heater when I just needed the drain valve replaced. 😡
Thanks for watching. Unfortunately there is a lot of incentive to up-sell and install new appliances, water heaters and furnaces. This results in a lot of appliances going to the landfill prematurely.
Happened with the furnace too😭 it is sad how many ends up in the landfill tho
Great video but such a terrible waste of water. Most of country in drought so maybe better to collect the gray water in buckets and bins and use for lawn and gardening vs wasting as you do.
Thanks for watching. This video was focused on the repair and not on grey water management. For places that are currently in a drought, it is up to the homeowner to make decisions about water usage.
Information... but boring. I feel like I'm watching one of those educational/policy videos that employers force you watch.
Thanks for watching. We understand that not everyone has the same attention spans. We decided to make a slower paced tutorial that anyone can follow. If needed users can change the playback speed in the youtube player to make it go faster.
Thank you!
You're welcome!