Love your videos! Hands down, top shelf quality information. Great getting Knowledge from an expert, that you're able to apply at your own house. Look forward to the next video!
It is people like yourself that help others who want to be home owners help understand what is going on in their homes and how to fix stuff!!! Thank you for spreading your knowledge on to others man!! You earned yourself another like n sub!!
Great detailed video! Our plumber was out this morning for a minor call. Strongly suggested we change the valve. Picked up a new one and will be replacing it in the morning thanks to your video!
Love your videos! You have saved me so much money and even better, educated me on how water heaters, heat pumps and air conditioners actually work. You methods are awesome. Unfortunately my water heater tank is in my attic. Yes, I know. But regardless, thank you for making these video's. I just replaced mine (20 years old) and they wanted $2k to do it! I did it for the cost of the Water Tank from Lowes. Take care.
Watched several and IMO this is the best one. I've changed these before but was looking for one that didn't drain the tank. Thanks for this great video.
Thank you for this video. I just finished replacing the valve and all went well, following your video instructions. So easy to do and I probably saved a few hundred vs hiring a plumber.
Thanks for inspiring me to buy the pressure relief valve and to try to replace it myself on my 7 year old leaking water heater. As a last gasp before installation, I tried the "exercise the valve" method, and it worked! Initially, I had tried to open it, but it made the leak much worse, which led me to buy the replacement.
Awesome! Glad to hear that worked for you! :) Thank you for coming back to leave a comment. If the relief valve was not too expensive, I would just leave it as a spare. It might start leaking again down the road.
I am a DIY when I can to avoid the high cost of hiring someone. Following your instructions, I replace my valve yesterday. It was $14.00 :-) you saved me $$$. cheers :-)
Oh my! I just found your channel. I am supposed to close in a couple of weeks on a 1975 double wide and the inspector found that the WH had no relief valve. I want to DIM and your instructions are so good. Your voice tone and knowledge is so great. You are my go-to instruction source because I am sure I will find a lot of things I will need to do after I move int. Thank you so much!!! (A 67-yr-old Grandmother) :)
You're the coolest for making videos like this. Had a plumber come by and try to tell me I needed to replace the whole water heater. After some research, I went out and bought this part, and thanks to you it's only costing me about 20 bucks to try to fix it on my own.
I too had a company tell me I need a new system because of mineral deposits that can create a shelf inside the tank and create a barrier since it was running. I also had no air in my expansion tank and he said it was bad but no water came out.. all I need to do is put air back in the expansion tank and replace this valve I believe. I still get water coming out steady when I open the valve so I think his deposit shelf theory is bogus.
My water heater start leaking and I was looking for some information in RUclips found your video and now I know how to replace releafvalve like I said before you are awesome !! Thank you so much for your help and God bless you and family ..
Thanks for the video. You showed how simple it is to do this yourself, and I just finished replacing the the pressure relief valve on my water heater. LOL, it took longer to go to the hardware store to purchase the valve then to actually replace it.
Very educational video. Here's something else often overlooked. Just as important as the pressure and temperature ratings (150psi/210°F) is the BTU/hr rating of the valve. The BTU/hr valve rating should always exceed the BTU/hr rating of the heater, as shown on the nameplate on a gas water heater, for an electric water heater, multiply the wattage by 3.4121 to find the BTU/hr. In case the thermostat fails to shut off the gas burner or electric elements, the valve must be sized to discharge the overheated water at a greater rate than it's being heated at, to prevent pressure build up and explosion. While this is happening, cold water enters the tank and this is how the T&P valve moderates the temperature and pressure to keep everyone safe during a malfunction.
I prefer the vacuum method. If tank has both hot & cold shut off valves, I only use them, & pull vacuum thru relief valve, then swap em out fast like you did. But some tanks don’t have the hot water shut off valve, only cold water shut off valve, and you have to trust the occupants will remember not to turn on hot water faucets, after you explain to them. Every house is different :) great video !
Yeah, the vacuum method is lot faster :) So far I only got one "shower" from a pressure relief valve where someone opened up a faucet on me. I rarely see a shut off on the hot side though. Usually only the cold.
Thanks for your videos they’re helpful. I think it’s best to drain the tank a bit and then swap them out just in case. You don’t want to get water on the gas valve.
Thanks! It worked. The only difference was that the little sensor wasn't quite as long on the new one as the defective one. Everyone assured me that it didn't matter.
I have one drip every thirty seconds coming from my hot water tank. Thank you for the how to videos. Best how to video on how to do this. My directional pipe goes through the wall so I'll have to cut it so I can turn it.
My 3 year old water heater had an occasional drip from the tpr valve. Plumber said I needed an expansion tank but no one in my city has one, plus the old water heater in here lasted 13 years without one. Another plumber said that those valves can go bad and to replace them ever 2 to 4 years. I replaced it last week and so far no leaking.
Thank you so much for clear explanation of water heater safety valve assembly function. I have exactly same problem cup of water after few days at bottom. I was very afraid to drain from bottom valve which is normal for those who flush there water heater for longevity but since I have unit in basement don’t know how to get ride of couple gallon water. I guess will have go upstairs and discard in a bucket. Pulling that safety valve was really nervous 😬 but if I can stop water would help. Do you still think my hot water heater is going bad? Everyone I spoke to says once you see water at bottom means time to replace but no one willing to help do what you just did since it’s a small job.
FYI your sediment trap is installed incorrectly , I know you didn't do it. Just saying ! A trick for for TMP valves that won't stop after opening is to tap them with a wrench , it either stops or gets worse. Great videos !
yeah, I check mine every couple of months. I had a plumber come and check the wall furnace for carbon monoxide and he said he’ll check the hot water and he wanted to replace the pressure relief valve for $450. I said “no there is no problem with it because I check it”.
Usually it is easy to just visually see which one it is. If you look in my description, there is a link to the long shank and short shank that you can look at for an example. If you are not sure though, I would go with a long shank. You can replace a short with a long but you cannot replace a long with a short ;) I know techs that only carry long shank valves on their trucks and replace everything with the long ones.
I got a ice machine, but every night when we close the door it stop works . I think was HgA , so the hot water comes in ,I was think if was this .. Cuz I never pull it , and it been 3 yrs....
Great video. I followed method 1 and had no issues until I got to step 6. I can't seem to remove the valve. I'm using a crescent wrench, but it's not budging at all. Any suggestions?
Unfortunately a few hours later it was leaking again. Is it possible that I didn't tighten it enough or could it be a problem with the expansion tank? (I did not test it, per your advice.)
Mine was doing the same thing, watched your video, replaced the valve, and the new one is still popping, or leaking. Bucket underneath drain pipe. Probably about 1 litre since last night. I think it's popping because when I first installed it, it was leaking, I cycled the valve a few times, and it seated. No leaking, or drips, but kept the bucket underneath as a precaution. When I checked it in the morning it wasn't leaking or dripping but had about a litre of water in it. I reduced the heat from where it was when I noticed the problem the first time. The water is not very hot at all, I can keep my hand under it no problem. Any advice would be awesome. Gas hot water tank. I actually think it's the same one you have in the video. Anything else I can try looking at?
Hmmm.. If the water is not too hot, then the only thing left is a water pressure issue.. I found this thread pretty useful before, I think you will get some good info for your problem as well: terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/water-heater-t-p-valve-replaced-still-leaking.644/
Hey I love your video. and also the way you teach about the safety tips, when dealing with a hot water tank. Great info. Quick question for you if I could. I just had a pressure relief valve replaced on my tank about two days ago. and now I'm not getting any hot water in the bathroom, and the water in the bathtub is not turning on. So can you tell me what you think that could be causing that to happen. Thanks.
So I decided to do some maintenance on my water heater which is no more than 6 months old. Shut off the water supply to the house, opened a faucet, drained the tank, worked the t&p valve. Than after it was emptied I open the municipal water supply to the house, tank is filled up, made sure air was out of the faucets than called it done. Never accounted for the thermal expansion so around 4 hours later the t&p valve goes off in the garage but luckily I was in the living room when it happened & when I walked into my garage water was just gushing out Non-Stop. So I shut off the water supply to the whole house because the ball valve at the tank still allows some water to sep through. Anyways now when I turn on the main water,that little bit of seepage that gets into the tank is enough for water to just keep streaming through the t&p valve... Also there's not much water coming out of out shower now.
Does the discharge pipe for the pressure relief valve have to be routed downward? The reason I ask is we are buying a home and the inspector said this one is routed up and to the side. Could this be dangerous and should I insist owner repair?
By code, the discharge pipe should be routed downward, at least 6 inches from the floor. But if what he means is that the pressure relief valve is on top of the water heater and the pipe comes out to the side and then downwards, then that's fine.
My pressure relief valve is on top of the Hot Water Heater. I’ll have to make several 90* turns. My question: is there a flexible pipe that I can use from the PR valve to the drain pipe going to the outside? Thank You!
The pipe from my pressure relief valve takes a 90 degree turn and goes into the wall of my garage. It doesn't come out anywhere. Do you suppose it's draining into the wall cavity? The only drains I know of are on the other side of the house. Should I put in a new pipe that just goes straight down to the floor? Thanks.
Hard to say where it goes after it goes into the wall.. I don't have a good answer for you. I would just put in a new pipe that goes straight down like you suggested.
John Cullen you might want to check thermal expansion tank (if you have one). Thermal expansion tank is to absorb water heater pressure and will lengthen life of water heater.
Came home to water around my tank. If this happens once but never had this issue after it occurred, should I change it or wait to see if it occurs again. I tested the relief valve and water stopped on closing n I hear no hissing noise coming from it. Recommendations please.
Weird question. I went to change my anode rod and noticed the pressure relief valve was installed where my anode rod is supposed to be. There’s a location on the side marked pressure relief valve. Is that normal?
Usually it's on top only if there is no room to put it on the side.. But I have seen plenty of water heaters with pressure relief valves on top so it's not that uncommon. And you probably already know this but not all water heaters will have an anode rod.
@@WordofAdviceTV thanks. I didnt know that. The water heater is marked anode on the top but installer put a relief valve sticker over the top of it. I think I'll call AO Smith to find out if there is one or not.
Hi j could you help me with this problem i relief my pressure valve another day i came back my basement all over the water could you give me an idea please
To be honest, where I live/work, I have yet to see a water heater with an expansion tank (and I've worked on hundreds) so I can't give you a good answer.
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Love your videos! Hands down, top shelf quality information. Great getting Knowledge from an expert, that you're able to apply at your own house. Look forward to the next video!
Thank you very much! :) Glad you liked the video, and thank you for commenting!
You are great. Just played with relief valve like you said...my leak has stopped! Thank you for this video!
Used this vid last night! Saved me 300 did it myself with this vid! Thank you wish I could share the pic of the valve I replaced
Finally I find someone who is thorough, very descriptive and illustrated that even I can understand and follow. Thanks!
It is people like yourself that help others who want to be home owners help understand what is going on in their homes and how to fix stuff!!! Thank you for spreading your knowledge on to others man!! You earned yourself another like n sub!!
Great detailed video! Our plumber was out this morning for a minor call. Strongly suggested we change the valve. Picked up a new one and will be replacing it in the morning thanks to your video!
Love your videos! You have saved me so much money and even better, educated me on how water heaters, heat pumps and air conditioners actually work. You methods are awesome. Unfortunately my water heater tank is in my attic. Yes, I know. But regardless, thank you for making these video's. I just replaced mine (20 years old) and they wanted $2k to do it! I did it for the cost of the Water Tank from Lowes. Take care.
Jay; you actually help All People in either A/C or Electric or Gas Water Heater Companies. I would watch you always when I need service.
Watched several and IMO this is the best one. I've changed these before but was looking for one that didn't drain the tank. Thanks for this great video.
You are the greatest most intelligent person on the face of this Earth. Believe me, I know.
Thanks Mom!
@@kirbyculp3449 2 years you wait to write? Didn’t I raise you better than that!
THANK YOU SO MUCH
I was literally googling a new controller when this video popped up. Did the 6x on the Honeywell, fired right up!!
Thank you for this video. I just finished replacing the valve and all went well, following your video instructions. So easy to do and I probably saved a few hundred vs hiring a plumber.
You're welcome! Glad to hear you were able to get it done smoothly!
Thanks for inspiring me to buy the pressure relief valve and to try to replace it myself on my 7 year old leaking water heater. As a last gasp before installation, I tried the "exercise the valve" method, and it worked! Initially, I had tried to open it, but it made the leak much worse, which led me to buy the replacement.
Awesome! Glad to hear that worked for you! :) Thank you for coming back to leave a comment. If the relief valve was not too expensive, I would just leave it as a spare. It might start leaking again down the road.
I am a DIY when I can to avoid the high cost of hiring someone. Following your instructions, I replace my valve yesterday. It was $14.00 :-) you saved me $$$. cheers :-)
Awesome! Glad to hear my video helped! :)
As always, on point! This young man is the best on RUclips, bar none!
Oh my! I just found your channel. I am supposed to close in a couple of weeks on a 1975 double wide and the inspector found that the WH had no relief valve. I want to DIM and your instructions are so good. Your voice tone and knowledge is so great. You are my go-to instruction source because I am sure I will find a lot of things I will need to do after I move int. Thank you so much!!! (A 67-yr-old Grandmother) :)
You're the coolest for making videos like this. Had a plumber come by and try to tell me I needed to replace the whole water heater. After some research, I went out and bought this part, and thanks to you it's only costing me about 20 bucks to try to fix it on my own.
Glad I could help :) Thank you for commenting!
I too had a company tell me I need a new system because of mineral deposits that can create a shelf inside the tank and create a barrier since it was running. I also had no air in my expansion tank and he said it was bad but no water came out.. all I need to do is put air back in the expansion tank and replace this valve I believe. I still get water coming out steady when I open the valve so I think his deposit shelf theory is bogus.
I was wondering how that worked.
Thanks for explaining what happens if it gains too much pressure.
Great video. I have to do this job & feel really confident after seeing this. You didn't skip one step. From start to finish. Awesome job!
My water heater start leaking and I was looking for some information in RUclips found your video and now I know how to replace releafvalve like I said before you are awesome !! Thank you so much for your help and God bless you and family ..
You're most welcome! Glad to hear that my video was able to help you out. May God bless you and family as well! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! :)
Fixed my leaking today by myself, thank you
Excellent I did it the second way and I'm a beginner. Thanks for this video...probably save me hundreds of dollars
Thanks for the video. You showed how simple it is to do this yourself, and I just finished replacing the the pressure relief valve on my water heater. LOL, it took longer to go to the hardware store to purchase the valve then to actually replace it.
Nice! :) Glad it went smooth for you!
Very educational video. Here's something else often overlooked. Just as important as the pressure and temperature ratings (150psi/210°F) is the BTU/hr rating of the valve. The BTU/hr valve rating should always exceed the BTU/hr rating of the heater, as shown on the nameplate on a gas water heater, for an electric water heater, multiply the wattage by 3.4121 to find the BTU/hr. In case the thermostat fails to shut off the gas burner or electric elements, the valve must be sized to discharge the overheated water at a greater rate than it's being heated at, to prevent pressure build up and explosion. While this is happening, cold water enters the tank and this is how the T&P valve moderates the temperature and pressure to keep everyone safe during a malfunction.
Just called this guy, awesome helped me fix my stuff. Great guy
Thanks so much! Not a handy man at all and it worked just like you said! Saved $200 and a hero to my family👍
Awesome! Glad it went smooth for you :)
Happy to hear that! Thank you for commenting!
Fixed my valve with your help! Thank you so very much!!
I prefer the vacuum method. If tank has both hot & cold shut off valves, I only use them, & pull vacuum thru relief valve, then swap em out fast like you did. But some tanks don’t have the hot water shut off valve, only cold water shut off valve, and you have to trust the occupants will remember not to turn on hot water faucets, after you explain to them. Every house is different :) great video !
Yeah, the vacuum method is lot faster :) So far I only got one "shower" from a pressure relief valve where someone opened up a faucet on me. I rarely see a shut off on the hot side though. Usually only the cold.
Awesome Video..Watched it 10 times then tackled the project. It was a success! saved me prob 100 bucks Thanks..Very well explained!
Thanks for your videos they’re helpful. I think it’s best to drain the tank a bit and then swap them out just in case. You don’t want to get water on the gas valve.
Excellent job - clear video, fine commentary & a new T&P valve - hoorah!!
You did a very good job with this video.
Thanks! It worked. The only difference was that the little sensor wasn't quite as long on the new one as the defective one. Everyone assured me that it didn't matter.
So helpful and enjoyable. Glad I followed all the precautions. Feels good to do it right.
Excellent...much needed since I am doing this tomorrow on our water heater.
Good luck! :)
This was a really helpful video. Thank you so much! I was able to replace mine by myself.
Excellent, informative video. Please keep them coming, they’re very useful in the field.
Glad to hear that! Thank you for watching!
Nice video ! I would still put (new) teflon tape on the discharge pipe connection, make it easier to remove the next time.
Somewhat scary to do it like that. But you are a cool master, man. You did it like a piece of cake. Great!
Wow you are the hombre.. thx you in advance!! I saved a tremendously amount of money & only paid $14.95 for part!!
Awesome! Glad to hear that! Thank you for commenting!
Extremely helpful and comprehensive.
Happy to hear that! :) Thank you for commenting!
very help full and the best detail!!! THANKS
DUDE!!!! Thank you soooo much! I followed your video to the letter and everything went 100! Lemme know if i can buy you a beer!
I have one drip every thirty seconds coming from my hot water tank. Thank you for the how to videos. Best how to video on how to do this. My directional pipe goes through the wall so I'll have to cut it so I can turn it.
Great and easy to understand video, many thanks!
Saved me hundreds of dollars, Thank you!!!!
A very enjoyable instructional video indeed. Thanks
Happy to hear that! Thank you for commenting! :)
very impressive video....but where tht stem gthers when tnk is filled with wter i guess these is no spce for tht ? plese nswer
Thank you I will be doing this tomorrow I hope it goes smoothly
Good luck! :)
My 3 year old water heater had an occasional drip from the tpr valve. Plumber said I needed an expansion tank but no one in my city has one, plus the old water heater in here lasted 13 years without one. Another plumber said that those valves can go bad and to replace them ever 2 to 4 years. I replaced it last week and so far no leaking.
Is it a richmond?
Sunday night, leak coming from the PRV, thanks for the great info!
Glad I could help! Thank you for commenting!
Thank you for your videos! It helps so much!
Fantastic content... very thorough... and some great tips... thank you.
Helpful video. Thanks. I will have the opportunity to give this a whirl in the next few days.
Glad you found it helpful, good luck! :)
Great video! Very helpful, you saved me a lot of money ! Thanks for sharing! God bless!
Glad I could help! Thank you for commenting!
14k Views, and only 376 likes.. Seems like 13,624 people are not thankful for this great video..
Lol, thanks Stephan! Hopefully they found the video helpful nonetheless :)
You are a genius sir.
Thank you :) Glad you liked the video!
Thank you so much for clear explanation of water heater safety valve assembly function. I have exactly same problem cup of water after few days at bottom. I was very afraid to drain from bottom valve which is normal for those who flush there water heater for longevity but since I have unit in basement don’t know how to get ride of couple gallon water. I guess will have go upstairs and discard in a bucket. Pulling that safety valve was really nervous 😬 but if I can stop water would help. Do you still think my hot water heater is going bad? Everyone I spoke to says once you see water at bottom means time to replace but no one willing to help do what you just did since it’s a small job.
Looks like you forgot to turn your gas valve from Pilot! I like the video.
very nicely done. thank you for sharing
Very helpful and simple way Thank you very much.
You're welcome! Thank you for commenting!
FYI your sediment trap is installed incorrectly , I know you didn't do it. Just saying ! A trick for for TMP valves that won't stop after opening is to tap them with a wrench , it either stops or gets worse. Great videos !
Awwww do you visit your water heater every evening? That’s nice what a relationship, you both keep each other warm!!!🥶🥵😱🤪🤪🤪
It's called knowledge. Jay is Excellent within his craft.
Awesome tutorial thanks!
yeah, I check mine every couple of months. I had a plumber come and check the wall furnace for carbon monoxide and he said he’ll check the hot water and he wanted to replace the pressure relief valve for $450. I said “no there is no problem with it because I check it”.
Super great video. My valve thoiugh is so tight it won't budge. I don't want to crack it. I hate to call a plumber. Any tip to try to get it off.
Good video thanks! How do you know if the valve is a short or long one prior to swapping it out?
Usually it is easy to just visually see which one it is. If you look in my description, there is a link to the long shank and short shank that you can look at for an example. If you are not sure though, I would go with a long shank. You can replace a short with a long but you cannot replace a long with a short ;) I know techs that only carry long shank valves on their trucks and replace everything with the long ones.
Excellent Video! Thanks.
very helpful and instructive
Great detailed video.
Thank you for commenting! Glad you liked the video!
absolutely outstanding video thank you
You're welcome! Thank you for watching and commenting!
Excellent educational video. ...thanks man
Glad you liked it! Thank you for commenting!
Thank you for a great descriptive video.
Glad you liked it! Thank you for commenting!
Great video! Thank you! Is the method working the same for gas space heater’s temperature relief valve replacement?
I got a ice machine, but every night when we close the door it stop works . I think was HgA , so the hot water comes in ,I was think if was this .. Cuz I never pull it , and it been 3 yrs....
Great video. I followed method 1 and had no issues until I got to step 6. I can't seem to remove the valve. I'm using a crescent wrench, but it's not budging at all. Any suggestions?
If you have a mallet, try hitting the wrench (not full power, just repetitive firm hits) and that will usually break it free.
Got it off and installed the new valve. Thanks so much! Do you recommend testing the valve after everything is done?
@@PBM-ed4dc Glad to hear that! I never test new ones, why create a chance for a leak? :)
Unfortunately a few hours later it was leaking again. Is it possible that I didn't tighten it enough or could it be a problem with the expansion tank? (I did not test it, per your advice.)
If the new one is leaking again, that likely does mean that there's a problem with the expansion tank then.
Thank you. Quick and descriptive
Glad you liked it, thank you for commenting! :)
Mine was doing the same thing, watched your video, replaced the valve, and the new one is still popping, or leaking. Bucket underneath drain pipe. Probably about 1 litre since last night. I think it's popping because when I first installed it, it was leaking, I cycled the valve a few times, and it seated. No leaking, or drips, but kept the bucket underneath as a precaution. When I checked it in the morning it wasn't leaking or dripping but had about a litre of water in it. I reduced the heat from where it was when I noticed the problem the first time. The water is not very hot at all, I can keep my hand under it no problem. Any advice would be awesome. Gas hot water tank. I actually think it's the same one you have in the video. Anything else I can try looking at?
Hmmm.. If the water is not too hot, then the only thing left is a water pressure issue.. I found this thread pretty useful before, I think you will get some good info for your problem as well: terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/water-heater-t-p-valve-replaced-still-leaking.644/
Hey I love your video. and also the way you teach about the safety tips, when dealing with a hot water tank. Great info. Quick question for you if I could. I just had a pressure relief valve replaced on my tank about two days ago. and now I'm not getting any hot water in the bathroom, and the water in the bathtub is not turning on. So can you tell me what you think that could be causing that to happen. Thanks.
So I decided to do some maintenance on my water heater which is no more than 6 months old. Shut off the water supply to the house, opened a faucet, drained the tank, worked the t&p valve. Than after it was emptied I open the municipal water supply to the house, tank is filled up, made sure air was out of the faucets than called it done. Never accounted for the thermal expansion so around 4 hours later the t&p valve goes off in the garage but luckily I was in the living room when it happened & when I walked into my garage water was just gushing out Non-Stop. So I shut off the water supply to the whole house because the ball valve at the tank still allows some water to sep through. Anyways now when I turn on the main water,that little bit of seepage that gets into the tank is enough for water to just keep streaming through the t&p valve... Also there's not much water coming out of out shower now.
I appreciate you!!! Great video! Thank you!!!
Can you replace a valve with a short shank with a valve long shank, for example to clear an additional water heater insulation blanket?
Oh for sure! I do that often :) If I am not sure what the water heater has, then I just use the long one.
Awesome. Thanks for the quick reply. Subscribed!
Thank you! :) Good luck with the replacement!
Does the discharge pipe for the pressure relief valve have to be routed downward? The reason I ask is we are buying a home and the inspector said this one is routed up and to the side. Could this be dangerous and should I insist owner repair?
By code, the discharge pipe should be routed downward, at least 6 inches from the floor. But if what he means is that the pressure relief valve is on top of the water heater and the pipe comes out to the side and then downwards, then that's fine.
Thank you, very help full.
Glad to hear it! Thank you for commenting!
Very nice job. Thanks!
Glad you liked it! Thank you for commenting!
My pressure relief valve is on top of the Hot Water Heater. I’ll have to make several 90* turns. My question: is there a flexible pipe that I can use from the PR valve to the drain pipe going to the outside? Thank You!
Great video!
The pipe from my pressure relief valve takes a 90 degree turn and goes into the wall of my garage. It doesn't come out anywhere. Do you suppose it's draining into the wall cavity? The only drains I know of are on the other side of the house. Should I put in a new pipe that just goes straight down to the floor? Thanks.
Hard to say where it goes after it goes into the wall.. I don't have a good answer for you. I would just put in a new pipe that goes straight down like you suggested.
Is it within code to have the copper drain terminate there? Doesn't it have to go to the exterior of the building. That's how it is on my house.
You helped me brah thanku
awesome job kiddo - god bless
What about adding a thermal expansion tank?
Great video I change the valve that was leaking with a new one. But after taking a hot shower it leaks again any ideas?
John Cullen you might want to check thermal expansion tank (if you have one). Thermal expansion tank is to absorb water heater pressure and will lengthen life of water heater.
Ch wang you are right that’s what it was.
I didn’t know that at the time I had to get
Professional help. Live and learn lol
what state are you in because the overflow does not go to a drain and there is no pan under the water heater
Came home to water around my tank. If this happens once but never had this issue after it occurred, should I change it or wait to see if it occurs again. I tested the relief valve and water stopped on closing n I hear no hissing noise coming from it. Recommendations please.
Is this common for this to happen out of the blue?
Weird question. I went to change my anode rod and noticed the pressure relief valve was installed where my anode rod is supposed to be. There’s a location on the side marked pressure relief valve. Is that normal?
Usually it's on top only if there is no room to put it on the side.. But I have seen plenty of water heaters with pressure relief valves on top so it's not that uncommon. And you probably already know this but not all water heaters will have an anode rod.
@@WordofAdviceTV thanks. I didnt know that. The water heater is marked anode on the top but installer put a relief valve sticker over the top of it. I think I'll call AO Smith to find out if there is one or not.
Hi j could you help me with this problem i relief my pressure valve another day i came back my basement all over the water could you give me an idea please
Great video....can you still do this if you have an expansion tank?
To be honest, where I live/work, I have yet to see a water heater with an expansion tank (and I've worked on hundreds) so I can't give you a good answer.
Thank you for the video!
You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
Yooo thanks again. Respect, and skills. Thanks.
Glad you liked the video! Thank you for commenting!