Good call on replacing your old heather due to age. We woke up one morning to a burst heater, 6 months after moving into our 12-years-old-at-the-time house. Got lucky to catch the leak in time and even luckier that home warranty service replaced it at no cost to us... and the icing of the lucky cake was the $750 hardwood glue my contractor used which stopped moisture from ruining our newly laid floors!
I had a pressure regulator go bad in my brand new home... We had moved in three days prior & had yet to unpack many boxes.. It burst the water hose to my washer & I had water 2" deep throughout... I drilled holes in the floor in many places to allow the water to drain , then pulled all the carpet & padding . With big fans it dried out in a few days... I had to cut a couple feet of drywall throughout the house & replaced 2' of insulation as well.... I sent the regulator to a testing lab & they said it had failed . I contacted to manufacturer & the city who istalled it & told them what happened...I returned the regulator at their request & they also tested it . To their credit , they also said it failed... It cost them $16000 in 1991 ...
Your video is a Godsend, Chris. We have the same problem - a recent development. Tank relief valve discharges when tank reheats after laundry or shower. Then water blasts out of faucet at first, indicating high line pressure. I haven’t made any recent plumbing changes so my guess is the township did. Gonna add an expansion tank and regulator like you did. Thanks so much for sharing this!
OMG Chris my grandmother had the exact same wallpaper that your mom does and I swear I stared at it all the time lol. That brought back some memory' wow!
Chris, you are truely a master. I have done so much plumbing myself and never really understood the expansion tank science. Thanks - I really learned something from you again today about pressure in a hot water system, AND even your techniques of soldering are great. Thank you!
Good morning Chris and Jen , damn that was a huge pressure build up in your mothers water system. I can see where that could cause a serious problem. I think that your correct in notifying the water department that they created a huge problem for homeowners. Personally I have never had to deal with expansion tanks, but after watching this video I would feel confident about installing one in my system. Thanks Chris and thumbs UP! 👍🌊
The National Plumbing Code, and others, have required the installation of a thermal expansion tank on all new water heater installations/replacements for at least twenty years, even when the potable system is not a closed system. This was intended to be proactive. Some municipalities will let you get away with not installing a tank if you are not on a closed system, though, which is stupid. The code was put in place for the very reason this problem occurred. Municipalities are very likely to install new meters with check valves to protect the public system from contamination. They usually change the meters out because they replace the old ones with meters that can be read remotely via radio signal, and these new meters almost always incorporate at least one check valve. Something to keep in mind is that pressure reducing valves act like check valves and can close a system. Some have bypasses to allow thermal expansion to push back through them, but the orifice in the bypass is very small and it doesn’t take long for it to get clogged to the point where it won’t allow water to flow back through it.
Hey Chris… I’m no plumber either, but have had several expansion tanks go bad… leading to a dripping hot water heater pressure relief valve. The first time I replaced it, I turned off the feed side valve, but didn’t open a faucet to drain down the pressure. Lesson quickly learned as it shot past my head. Your system looks awesome!!
Duds great job on your tow truck. I didn't leave comment there as it was buried in the thousands already posted. Please keep that truck going as this brings back so many memories of my childhood. Also your going great work to it. Can't wait to see you tow your next haul behind it
not sure of code where you are in PA but here in Texas we install an inline pressure reducer on the main feed from the street on the customer side of the meter. We dont have basements or the deep cold like you guys have. our house lines are usually 10 -18 inches deep if that. good diagnosis
Wow! I'm in AZ and our water shutoff valve is easily accessible at the street. You just pop the cover off and twist the valve, you don't need any tools. What is someone supposed to do if they have a massive leak and don't have the tool? That's crazy, she's so lucky nothing gave up at nearly 150psi, hope the neighbors were as lucky. Great video as always brother!
@@toddarnold2882 That makes sense. Crazy how different things can be from one region to another. I watch several RUclips mechanics that live where they salt the roads and I'm always blown away at how aggressive rust/corrosion is. If they had to work on cars from Tucson they'd think they died and went to heaven. On the flipside if a desert mechanic moved to the northeast he would have alot to learn! Prob starve on flat rate in the beginning.
@@toddarnold2882 Seriously! I watch all these videos and I'm thinking... that would take 1/4 the time here where its not all rusted and corroded, plus the added cost of all the consumables, PB Blaster, Kroil, fluid film, gas for the torch etc. Man a rust belt mechanic could make it damned good living here in the desert!
This is a FANTASTIC VIDEO.......!!!!!! THANK YOU FOR ORATION OF THIS SUBJECT.....!!!!!. This is a great Subject Matter that makes a difference.......... Please keep the message and mission coming.......!
Perfect timing! I recently replaced my water heater relief valve for the second time and found it’s still dripping off/on yesterday. I’d bet I have the same problem! Ordering a gauge to test, now! Thanks!
Holy flashback Batman, my Grandmother and my Mom had that same flower wallpaper in their bathrooms lol. I have never seen it before or since... Till now. Great channel!! Thank you for expanding my plumbing knowledge.
Damn great video. I just replaced my water heater a few weeks ago and mi e started leaking from that very pressure release valve. Now I know to check my water pressure and get one of those bladders and regulator added to my water lines. Thanks!
Nice work! Interesting how different code is from state to state. We don’t have a check valve but our county requires copper for the pressure relief pipe and no gas flex line.
The cabinets in my home has a liner/contact paper that is a very similar floral pattern to the wall paper in that bathroom. Built in 1973, it's original.
Just replaced my water heater yesterday and noticed you have the same one that I replaced. Mine was 12 yr warranty and failed at year 6. The tank started leaking and it occasionally tripped the breaker. The electronic thermostat always gave me issue from day 1. Keep an eye on the bottom black ring of the tank for any calcification. When I called for warranty replacement they had no issue giving me an RA number. My theory is they knew these tanks had an issue like that. Whirlpool no longer supplies water heaters but AO Smith services the warranty. Hopefully yours has better health than mine but keep an eye on it.
My system has the same drip that you were working on. My pressure release valve is on a slow drip which increases during a water heating cycle (probably for a while, but just came to light when the outlet froze) the water backed up and came out the Tundish at the tank. Might need to recharge my expansion tank or ‘air gap’ the hot water cylinder.
I bought a new reliant water heater a year ago, and I've replaced the relief valve 4 times, slow drip, each time. I have a shallow well max pressure 40 psi, temp set at 120 degrees F. Next I'll replace temp sensor top and bottom along w relive valve. The previous water heater I owned lasted 12 years.
Get yourself one of those Form A Funnel from Amazon. Flexible funnel for cleaner oil changes, forms over the frame etc to direct oil into oil pan. Psst it works great on plumbing projects too. Not always convenient to get a bucket under a valve or line...but that Green Form A Funnel works great to direct water into a bucket
Feel your Pain, I bought a brand-new water heater, same exact thing, relief valve bad out of the box, got warranty, but they wanted the "New" old one on exchange, well let's say I never got around to that, but I being Engineer placed nice set of vise grips to hold it shut, haven't had problem sense then. Got allot new pipes going in the neighborhood here as well, so i just wait till something bad happens or fix it.
I did plumbing a long time i gave it up but I'm currently fixing plumbing at my GFs house changing the setup updating and moving things around it's a old school house never been messed with till now
I learn really easily and usually alone on how to make repairs. But for 2 decades I have yet been able to solder a water pipe/connector because I never can totally dry the inside pipe. I've tried every way I could think of and the ideas the interweb says works. I've even gone as far as trying the bread trick which seemed so silly I figured it had to work. Nope just ended up having a red hot metal fragment fall into the hot water heaters insulation setting off the fire alarm and filling the basement with heavy smoke due to the tank being located in a cubby hole enclosed with no way to get it other than laying over the one 3 foot wall that gave access. Any other work I need to do is fine. Solder beat me and I know it's so easy.
You have to have a good shutoff valve or you'll never get the joint soldered. Any dripping or trickle at all and the copper can't heat up enough. Then you have to give it time to drain too. If you can keep it dry, the rest is just in the preparation of the joint. Clean both parts (sand, wire brushes, etc), flux is a must, only make it hot enough for the solder to flow then take away the heat. Personally I love copper pipe and really don't trust that plastic stuff everyone uses now. Copper is expensive and a little more work but it's the best imo.
@@AlAllerton I'm working on never having to solder water pipes ever again in my life but just typing this I can feel the leaks beating on the joints a bit harder now. Lol. Thanks for the info for sure though!
Great job. I have a question. Once you install the regulator which only allows pressure to go through the house at a certain psi, why do you need the tank expansion tank it installed at all?
It will also help reduce banging or "water hammer" in the pipes. That sudden stoppage of water at the faucet causes the water pressure spike and needs to release somewhere, so the expansion tank acts like a pillow when the pressure suddenly spikes.
You need to get an on demand water heater instead of a tank water heater they're more efficient, you can also get smaller units for like under the sink, to preheat the water until the water comes from the basement
Great demo, thank you. Was the original water heater pressure valve corroded? My brothers house is having the exact same problem after a new city main line replacement.
The Watts brand of PRV may tend to be noisier than another option: Zurn Wilkins PRV. For maximizing the lifespan of the expansion tank's rubber membrane, the optimal orientation appears to be: vertical & water inlet at the bottom. I completely agree about the city water pressure & that they should put out notice of consequences of them making changes at the water meter. Where I live, they switched to wireless meter reading (via cell phone radio frequency) and evidently thereby created the need for making changes to house plumbing, as described in your video. No warning about this was given to the customer.
Wow did they actually properly fix the road or just patch it? Just had that done here and I am expecting the snow plows to pull that all up this season.
Support the expansion tank. It is light when empty but when it fails it fills with water. The last thing you want is the expansion tank pulling and cracking your incoming water supply.
Chris- I had my hot water heater replaced a couple of months ago and the guy said he had to put an expansion tank on it. Must be a new requirement. The house is 100 years old and never had an expansion tank. Saxman
Hey Chris. Big fan of your channels. I'm probably missing something here. But it seems like with your expansion tank on the outlet side of the regulator, you will still see high pressures on the inlet side of the regulator.
Chris, I was confused by one thing. I still don't understand how it was that when the township put in new checkvalves that it caused the hot water tank to leak. Is it because the check valve worked at a higher pressure than the old one, or is it because it didn't have a checkvalue before and putting a check valve in increases the pressure?
The old check valve at the street was probably not sealing properly and leaking. Or there was no check valve to begin with since these houses were built in the 50s
Could a water hammer issue cause my T&P valve to leak? It only leaks when using hot/warm water from my washing machine. It doesn't do that when using hot water from any other fixtures.
@@NNKH2 i dont know why the city told me i need to have one because the pressure in my house was higher so it push the water back out and run the meter opposite way. they said i need to remove the tank or put a double check valve, i just finish installing the valve today.
Nice video good information..I install the expansion tank but I still getting water from the water pressure reales valve...maybe I'm doing something wrong can someone give me some information please 🙏
Simply put hot water expands. Usually 70#s for city water from mains. There always should be a pressure regulator valve on city water installations. They are usually set at 60#s. This eliminates the need for expansion tanks in the home..
Yes. I would definitely replace it. Unless it's in a area that you don't mind getting flooded when it inevitably starts leaking. They corrode on the inside once the sacrificial anodes are depleted
The outside tap pressure may be running off the mains with the unvented system/rest of house running off a balanced supply on the other side of a PRV with an expansion tank. People saying check outside tap/match pressure to outside tap need to caveat this. The outside tap may be at 80 PSI but that doesn't mean the system is, unless the PRV/inlet group has failed.
In apartments you’re are required to change them prior to the warranty going out even if they are working properly due to the risk of failure and insurance following the expiration of warranty. They all last different durations really. Some can fail in under 10yrs and some may last up to 20 or more years. They can be affected by water clarity and type or just by build quality. Pressure also as Chris noted here.
Lol! That's exactly what Jen said when she heard me editing the video and she heard that. She said somebody's going to comment about that reference. You were the first one
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~PRESSURE REDUCER: amzn.to/3v0nytt
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THANKS SO MUCH FOR WATCHING!
~NNKH Shirts / Merch: www.NoNonsenseKnowHow.com
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I'm totally loving that dark stained wood paneling on the wall.
Good call on replacing your old heather due to age. We woke up one morning to a burst heater, 6 months after moving into our 12-years-old-at-the-time house. Got lucky to catch the leak in time and even luckier that home warranty service replaced it at no cost to us... and the icing of the lucky cake was the $750 hardwood glue my contractor used which stopped moisture from ruining our newly laid floors!
I had a pressure regulator go bad in my brand new home...
We had moved in three days prior & had yet to unpack many boxes..
It burst the water hose to my washer & I had water 2" deep throughout...
I drilled holes in the floor in many places to allow the water to drain , then pulled all the carpet & padding .
With big fans it dried out in a few days...
I had to cut a couple feet of drywall throughout the house & replaced 2' of insulation as well....
I sent the regulator to a testing lab & they said it had failed .
I contacted to manufacturer & the city who istalled it & told them what happened...I returned the regulator at their request & they also tested it .
To their credit , they also said it failed...
It cost them $16000 in 1991 ...
You are the best. You explain well and I'm glad to see that you take care of your mom. It is priceless. Thank you.
I don't care what it is you're fixing. I just like watching you fix it. :)
Your video is a Godsend, Chris. We have the same problem - a recent development. Tank relief valve discharges when tank reheats after laundry or shower. Then water blasts out of faucet at first, indicating high line pressure. I haven’t made any recent plumbing changes so my guess is the township did. Gonna add an expansion tank and regulator like you did. Thanks so much for sharing this!
No problem! Glad to hear it was helpful and hopefully this solves your issue
Geez the scope of the things you are good at is amazing. Great content I always learn something interesting on you channels.
Great job Chris and looking out for Mom! A true gentleman
OMG Chris my grandmother had the exact same wallpaper that your mom does and I swear I stared at it all the time lol. That brought back some memory' wow!
Chris, you are truely a master. I have done so much plumbing myself and never really understood the expansion tank science. Thanks - I really learned something from you again today about pressure in a hot water system, AND even your techniques of soldering are great. Thank you!
Good morning Chris and Jen , damn that was a huge pressure build up in your mothers water system. I can see where that could cause a serious problem. I think that your correct in notifying the water department that they created a huge problem for homeowners. Personally I have never had to deal with expansion tanks, but after watching this video I would feel confident about installing one in my system. Thanks Chris and thumbs UP! 👍🌊
The National Plumbing Code, and others, have required the installation of a thermal expansion tank on all new water heater installations/replacements for at least twenty years, even when the potable system is not a closed system. This was intended to be proactive. Some municipalities will let you get away with not installing a tank if you are not on a closed system, though, which is stupid. The code was put in place for the very reason this problem occurred. Municipalities are very likely to install new meters with check valves to protect the public system from contamination. They usually change the meters out because they replace the old ones with meters that can be read remotely via radio signal, and these new meters almost always incorporate at least one check valve. Something to keep in mind is that pressure reducing valves act like check valves and can close a system. Some have bypasses to allow thermal expansion to push back through them, but the orifice in the bypass is very small and it doesn’t take long for it to get clogged to the point where it won’t allow water to flow back through it.
Projects for Mom are always fun, and important.
For a guy who's not a plumber,looks pretty damn good!
Hey Chris… I’m no plumber either, but have had several expansion tanks go bad… leading to a dripping hot water heater pressure relief valve. The first time I replaced it, I turned off the feed side valve, but didn’t open a faucet to drain down the pressure. Lesson quickly learned as it shot past my head. Your system looks awesome!!
Duds great job on your tow truck. I didn't leave comment there as it was buried in the thousands already posted. Please keep that truck going as this brings back so many memories of my childhood. Also your going great work to it. Can't wait to see you tow your next haul behind it
Thanks man and thanks so much for checking the videos out! Definitely more to come on the tow truck
Wonderful video that explains the reason a plumber installed a pressure tank in my supply line! Thank you!
not sure of code where you are in PA but here in Texas we install an inline pressure reducer on the main feed from the street on the customer side of the meter. We dont have basements or the deep cold like you guys have. our house lines are usually 10 -18 inches deep if that. good diagnosis
Wow! I'm in AZ and our water shutoff valve is easily accessible at the street. You just pop the cover off and twist the valve, you don't need any tools. What is someone supposed to do if they have a massive leak and don't have the tool? That's crazy, she's so lucky nothing gave up at nearly 150psi, hope the neighbors were as lucky. Great video as always brother!
Being that he lives in a cold winter climate like me our water shuts off are Buried 4 feet deep to keep them from freezing
@@toddarnold2882 That makes sense. Crazy how different things can be from one region to another. I watch several RUclips mechanics that live where they salt the roads and I'm always blown away at how aggressive rust/corrosion is. If they had to work on cars from Tucson they'd think they died and went to heaven. On the flipside if a desert mechanic moved to the northeast he would have alot to learn! Prob starve on flat rate in the beginning.
I think a mechanic from the desert would quit if he moved in to the salt belt lol
@@toddarnold2882 Seriously! I watch all these videos and I'm thinking... that would take 1/4 the time here where its not all rusted and corroded, plus the added cost of all the consumables, PB Blaster, Kroil, fluid film, gas for the torch etc. Man a rust belt mechanic could make it damned good living here in the desert!
Man, imma have to watch this again to really understand everything. Great video as always
Yeah it was a lot of talking, probably would have been better if I plugged some graphics in there. And thanks!
This is a FANTASTIC VIDEO.......!!!!!!
THANK YOU FOR ORATION OF THIS SUBJECT.....!!!!!.
This is a great Subject Matter that makes a difference..........
Please keep the message and mission coming.......!
Perfect timing! I recently replaced my water heater relief valve for the second time and found it’s still dripping off/on yesterday. I’d bet I have the same problem! Ordering a gauge to test, now! Thanks!
Awesome! Good luck getting it rectified. Let me know how you make out
Holy flashback Batman, my Grandmother and my Mom had that same flower wallpaper in their bathrooms lol. I have never seen it before or since... Till now. Great channel!! Thank you for expanding my plumbing knowledge.
I really enjoyed learning about water pressure and how it all works. Thank you.
Agree..they came around to all our houses and validated we had expansion tanks. When we did not, they told us to get one.
Thank you. Very informative video on how to diagnose issues that many people experience over the years.
Love following along with all your fixes!
Damn great video. I just replaced my water heater a few weeks ago and mi e started leaking from that very pressure release valve. Now I know to check my water pressure and get one of those bladders and regulator added to my water lines. Thanks!
Chris Saves The Day!!!!
Nice job, excellent process of getting to the root of the problem.
Nice work! Interesting how different code is from state to state. We don’t have a check valve but our county requires copper for the pressure relief pipe and no gas flex line.
The cabinets in my home has a liner/contact paper that is a very similar floral pattern to the wall paper in that bathroom. Built in 1973, it's original.
Impressive diagnostics.
Just replaced my water heater yesterday and noticed you have the same one that I replaced. Mine was 12 yr warranty and failed at year 6. The tank started leaking and it occasionally tripped the breaker. The electronic thermostat always gave me issue from day 1. Keep an eye on the bottom black ring of the tank for any calcification. When I called for warranty replacement they had no issue giving me an RA number. My theory is they knew these tanks had an issue like that. Whirlpool no longer supplies water heaters but AO Smith services the warranty. Hopefully yours has better health than mine but keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the info! I'll definitely keep an eye on mine
That was a very informative video! Thank you for sharing!
My system has the same drip that you were working on. My pressure release valve is on a slow drip which increases during a water heating cycle (probably for a while, but just came to light when the outlet froze) the water backed up and came out the Tundish at the tank.
Might need to recharge my expansion tank or ‘air gap’ the hot water cylinder.
I bought a new reliant water heater a year ago, and I've replaced the relief valve 4 times, slow drip, each time. I have a shallow well max pressure 40 psi, temp set at 120 degrees F. Next I'll replace temp sensor top and bottom along w relive valve. The previous water heater I owned lasted 12 years.
Great video, Loved it! I probably would had rant a lot more.
Good video Chris, I definitely learned something. Thanks again brother.
Nice work NNKH!
I'm on tank water, but it seems we don't have pressure problems like your ours is usually not enough pressure, all the best to you and your loved ones
Get yourself one of those Form A Funnel from Amazon. Flexible funnel for cleaner oil changes, forms over the frame etc to direct oil into oil pan. Psst it works great on plumbing projects too. Not always convenient to get a bucket under a valve or line...but that Green Form A Funnel works great to direct water into a bucket
Feel your Pain, I bought a brand-new water heater, same exact thing, relief valve bad out of the box, got warranty, but they wanted the "New" old one on exchange, well let's say I never got around to that, but I being Engineer placed nice set of vise grips to hold it shut, haven't had problem sense then. Got allot new pipes going in the neighborhood here as well, so i just wait till something bad happens or fix it.
I did plumbing a long time i gave it up but I'm currently fixing plumbing at my GFs house changing the setup updating and moving things around it's a old school house never been messed with till now
Nice work. IMO "On demand" hot water heaters are well worth the money. 100% agree there could have been a flood problem that pressure is way high.
I learn really easily and usually alone on how to make repairs. But for 2 decades I have yet been able to solder a water pipe/connector because I never can totally dry the inside pipe. I've tried every way I could think of and the ideas the interweb says works. I've even gone as far as trying the bread trick which seemed so silly I figured it had to work. Nope just ended up having a red hot metal fragment fall into the hot water heaters insulation setting off the fire alarm and filling the basement with heavy smoke due to the tank being located in a cubby hole enclosed with no way to get it other than laying over the one 3 foot wall that gave access. Any other work I need to do is fine. Solder beat me and I know it's so easy.
You have to have a good shutoff valve or you'll never get the joint soldered. Any dripping or trickle at all and the copper can't heat up enough. Then you have to give it time to drain too. If you can keep it dry, the rest is just in the preparation of the joint. Clean both parts (sand, wire brushes, etc), flux is a must, only make it hot enough for the solder to flow then take away the heat. Personally I love copper pipe and really don't trust that plastic stuff everyone uses now. Copper is expensive and a little more work but it's the best imo.
@@AlAllerton I'm working on never having to solder water pipes ever again in my life but just typing this I can feel the leaks beating on the joints a bit harder now. Lol. Thanks for the info for sure though!
Great job. I have a question. Once you install the regulator which only allows pressure to go through the house at a certain psi, why do you need the tank expansion tank it installed at all?
So the pressure stays at 45 when the water is being reheated in the hot water tank. Otherwise it will spike
It will also help reduce banging or "water hammer" in the pipes. That sudden stoppage of water at the faucet causes the water pressure spike and needs to release somewhere, so the expansion tank acts like a pillow when the pressure suddenly spikes.
You need to get an on demand water heater instead of a tank water heater they're more efficient, you can also get smaller units for like under the sink, to preheat the water until the water comes from the basement
Good job man I appreciate you keeping it simple for me...
Great demo, thank you. Was the original water heater pressure valve corroded? My brothers house is having the exact same problem after a new city main line replacement.
Very impressive 👍
Fantastic. Good to know.
You were great in Police Academy!
Great content! Super easy to follow
The Watts brand of PRV may tend to be noisier than another option: Zurn Wilkins PRV. For maximizing the lifespan of the expansion tank's rubber membrane, the optimal orientation appears to be: vertical & water inlet at the bottom. I completely agree about the city water pressure & that they should put out notice of consequences of them making changes at the water meter. Where I live, they switched to wireless meter reading (via cell phone radio frequency) and evidently thereby created the need for making changes to house plumbing, as described in your video. No warning about this was given to the customer.
I work on them all the time as as I am licensed HVAC.
Good know how video
Wow did they actually properly fix the road or just patch it? Just had that done here and I am expecting the snow plows to pull that all up this season.
They repaved it and did a pretty good job
Thanks for the video the exact same thing is happening at my house . Same water heater too lol
It's code to have one in my township funny how you guys are a few towns away and it's so different
Would you add air if needed to the expansion tank to match the street pressure with the street valve open or closed when at operating temp?
I don't think it really matters. You just add 60 PSI if you have 60 PSI house water pressure
Do you have to hit that T&P with metal plier when you flush the water for maintenance?
Thanks dude, gave me the reason way my heater dos the same
I think Jennifer's video fixing the sewer pipe is much more enlightening
Lol. Yeah her video is killer
Nice repair
When we remodeled our bathroom we found the same wallpaper underneath lol. Also, Jenn would of put the tank on straight 😂
Support the expansion tank. It is light when empty but when it fails it fills with water. The last thing you want is the expansion tank pulling and cracking your incoming water supply.
Chris- I had my hot water heater replaced a couple of months ago and the guy said he had to put an expansion tank on it. Must be a new requirement. The house is 100 years old and never had an expansion tank. Saxman
Hey Chris. Big fan of your channels. I'm probably missing something here. But it seems like with your expansion tank on the outlet side of the regulator, you will still see high pressures on the inlet side of the regulator.
The inlet side of the regulator that goes to the street should have 80psi. The expansion tank will not affect that
Oh nice. That makes sense. I was thinking the regulator was after the water heater.
This is very helpful. Omg thank you.
Chris, I was confused by one thing. I still don't understand how it was that when the township put in new checkvalves that it caused the hot water tank to leak. Is it because the check valve worked at a higher pressure than the old one, or is it because it didn't have a checkvalue before and putting a check valve in increases the pressure?
The old check valve at the street was probably not sealing properly and leaking. Or there was no check valve to begin with since these houses were built in the 50s
Putting the check valve in makes the water system in the house sealed off. So thermal expansion can be a real problem
@@NNKH2 Oh right - so there you have it. The street supply was the expansion tank! Very cool. Thanks again!
Never a rant Chris great vid lots of good advice. Thanks
Flush hot water tanks at least once a year to remove any sediment that may accumulate at the bottom of the tank.
just be sure to set the expansion tank pressure to your cold water hose bib pressure
Thank you...good information....
I know this comment is late, but did you check the psi in the expansion tank before you turned on the water?
Yes. It was precharged at 60 PSI
Could a water hammer issue cause my T&P valve to leak? It only leaks when using hot/warm water from my washing machine. It doesn't do that when using hot water from any other fixtures.
Excellent!
Hey mom... THE MEAT LOAF
At least now you know that the piping is good as it didn't burst. Hopefully wasn't weakened.
Smart man.
that box of rice is easy for mice to chew into - and yes hungry mice can clime up walls
Another good video !
do you have to have a double check valve so the pressure dont go back out the city meter?
Seems kind of pointless. It had no check valve at all for 70 years and was fine
@@NNKH2 i dont know why the city told me i need to have one because the pressure in my house was higher so it push the water back out and run the meter opposite way. they said i need to remove the tank or put a double check valve, i just finish installing the valve today.
HI SORRY MY COMMENT GOT LOST ,, GREAT VIDEO ..
Thanks Ronald
Yes, my shot arrived!
Nice video good information..I install the expansion tank but I still getting water from the water pressure reales valve...maybe I'm doing something wrong can someone give me some information please 🙏
Did you set the air pressure in your extension tank?
Learned a lot from this video Chris👍BTW Plumbers are a lost skill with the younger generation and make a lot of $$$
I know license for code but👀🤔
Simply put hot water expands. Usually 70#s for city water from mains. There always should be a pressure regulator valve on city water installations. They are usually set at 60#s. This eliminates the need for expansion tanks in the home..
What part of Texas are you?
My water heater in my house looks so old and has visible corrosion all over the outside. Should I be worried?
Yes. I would definitely replace it. Unless it's in a area that you don't mind getting flooded when it inevitably starts leaking. They corrode on the inside once the sacrificial anodes are depleted
They yellow CSST gas tubing should not be attached to the furnace duct either per installation guidelines.
The installation was done by a company
The outside tap pressure may be running off the mains with the unvented system/rest of house running off a balanced supply on the other side of a PRV with an expansion tank. People saying check outside tap/match pressure to outside tap need to caveat this. The outside tap may be at 80 PSI but that doesn't mean the system is, unless the PRV/inlet group has failed.
Spoke too soon, watched rest of video and you fitted this 😅
In how many years do you change out a water heater that's not leaking?
In apartments you’re are required to change them prior to the warranty going out even if they are working properly due to the risk of failure and insurance following the expiration of warranty.
They all last different durations really. Some can fail in under 10yrs and some may last up to 20 or more years. They can be affected by water clarity and type or just by build quality. Pressure also as Chris noted here.
I thouth i heard myself call my mom haha.
You and Jen starting a plumbing business? 😂
What percentage of elec. water heaters exploding!?
Was expecting you to say Mom I want meatloaf
Lol! That's exactly what Jen said when she heard me editing the video and she heard that. She said somebody's going to comment about that reference. You were the first one
u r awesome man god bless u bro alex make videos bro
Should the gas line be off?
The hot water heater should be turned off
@@NNKH2 thank you
How 2 open the valve with that metal tag in the way????
Pull
I'm afraid of forcing it 2 hard!