You literally saved me a service call. My valve was leaking and it was sediment stuck in the valve like you explained. Called back to cancel my service call. Sent money your way for saving money😊
Just saved me $300 for an emergency visit. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to do this without you. The manual packaged with my hot water heater had NONE of this in its 30 plus pages of mostly legal disclaimers. Thanks for preventing a flood!!!
As a homeowner, I am learning how to do simple projects to save money. I really dislike calling a plumber in to do a job I can do myself. So thank you for the opportunity to learn something new to help with upkeep on my home. Will tell you how it went. These kind of vlogs are timeless. So awesome 👌🏾 😊👍🏽☑️
My relief valve was continuously dripping. I was ready to purchase a new water heater. I followed your steps and fixed the issue. You saved me ~$1000 on a new unit. Thanks!
You go Louise!!! I'm 55 and have always done as many of my own home repairs and maintenance myself. Some people act like we aren't equipped to do some things. Turns out, a penis is not required equipment for almost anything!!! LoL!
yours was the first video that came up when I searched for this issue....2:30 in, and my problem has been resolved. The flush out was all it needed. THANK YOU!!!!
Great video. 1st option, actually increased the leak (once in a couple minutes drip to every second drip) once I opened, let it run, then closed the valve (mini buckets were already on standby). I'm assuming more build up made it's way through, not allowing the valve to close as before. I followed the steps and went to option two. The instructions were spot on. I changed the valve. No leaks, so far so good. I do believe the draining process (i did a combinatiom of a flush and gravity drain for the 10gallons), disrupted the sediment build up. So my water is running light brown. Lets see how long b4 that normalizes. Thanks again.
I was amazed that my valve looked like your valve from a 6 years old hot water tank that uses well water only, and yes I did have to replace it. Your excellant video saved me the cost of a plumber when I really need one for stuff I can't handle.
Love the fact that failure was related only to corrosion-Seat interference or total valve corrosion. Even I was smart enough to clear the seal interference, saved me a service call- Thx
Excellent tutorial, I changed the valve which had stuck a long time ago and was now dripping seriously. I hadn't realised the valve should be occasionally exercised. I was dreading getting a plumber out (£100 to have a look...) but did this myself easily for a £23.00 replacement valve.
10/10! Best instruction site for me, you cover EVERYTHING I need to know. I love the cutaway parts. Brilliant idea. Excellent instructor, Sir, thank you! 😄
I had already subscribed because of your electrical videos, but this one popped up in search when my hot water heater started dripping after turning the gas off/on. At the moment, it has stopped dripping after just opening the valve and hopefully stays that way! You are a very good teacher. I will send some money.
HOLY CRAP that worked!! If my situation helps ,awesome. I haven’t flashed my water heater in 4+ years. My release valve went off a few times when I resealed it up to fill the tank to flush it more than once. Im a noob so I forgot to turn off the sink here and there and I did hear my sink sputter with air pressure to. After doing so for 3-5 hours last night I woke up in the morning to find my garage floor still wet from the dripping release valve. I flushed it HARD a few times and it WORKED!!! So glad I don’t have to go to Home Depot or anything
Great video. Much appreciated. I tried flushing it a couple of times but opened the valve just partially and it didn't solve the problem - in fact, it made the leak worse. But I decided to try it once more with the valve all the way open and that did the trick. Didn't realize I had to "exercise" that valve once a year - I'll start doing that now along with my bi-annual tank flush.
I bought this water heater ruclips.net/user/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
Excellent video and explanations. Very helpful to understand. The only difference on my water heater is the relief valve is located on top of the unit. Mine just has a plug where yours is located. Thank you sir 🙏🏻
Thank you so much for this ! You always explain things very clearly to those of us who need your help, and without being condescending, in any way. Definitely my go to guy for all things maintenance. Once again, thank you, and best wishes !
Very helpful!! I did one thing differently. I drained water by taking out the relief valve. It's a bit messay at first, but it flushes out all the sediment from the fitting so you don't really risk the sediment falling into the tank.
New home owner and I kept finding water in the middle of the floor could not find for the life of me sat in the room for like 4 hours then randomly I see it just start draining on to my floor >-> flushed it like you said and sprayed all kinds of junk hopefully that cured my problem thank you!
Wow! So my tank has been leaking for a while. I thought it was over heating issue. I flushed the tank yesterday till it was clear. Last night it was leaking really bad at the pop off. I saw your video I just had to try it. Well good thing it worked!! Wow now just drying the area out. I'm going to flush that valve out a couple times a year and do the tank once a year. I am on well water so lots of hard water lime. My last tank lasted about 10 years with no flushing 🤣. Thank you!
Thank you so much. Hot started leaking steadily. I lifted handle and brown water came out for a minute. I let in run out for a minute or two then let go.leak stopped. You were so I credibly helpful. Thanks again
Your flush it method worked like a charm! Your explanation was top notch! Thanks for saving me from the wasted trip to HD and a repair I was uncertain of.💪
Thank you so much for sharing. I was cramping my pants thinking I had to replace to tank. Mine was leaking pretty bad. Flushed it and it stopped leaking. I’ll keep an eye on it to see if it leaks.
Good work. On a gas tank like yours, don't turn the temperature dial setting down, simply turn the control from the "on" position to the "pilot" position. Then when finished, turn it back to the on position. The tank temperature will be returned to your normal temperature, without having to try to reestablish its temperature dial to its previous setting.
I deal with pressure valve quite often.sometimes there is bleeder thank so it make more labor intense. Apreciate your effort to explained it, do come handy for the ones that don't know and is doing themselves
Great video and demo of valve! Question. My safety valve is on top. I will try fix number 1 first. Doubt it works. Recently replaced anode. It was about 3" long! UPDATE: As you suggested I worked the release valve back and forth several times. Emptied the water bucket.. probably filled a quart up every 36 hours. Checked it this morning and the bucket is dry. THANK YOU for the instructional video. Saved me $$$$ from buying tools for cutting and soldering a copper pipe and from removing and replacing the valve!
great instruction video. just went through flushing the valve and turned tank heater back on to see if that fixed it. Ill be back for other DYI videos!
You do an excellent job at explaining the steps required to fix either issue. I can follow easily . I tried the easy and it does not seem to work.Thank you
Great instructional video. I recommend that you do another video showing the replacement of the anode rod and flushing. I recommend an aluminum rod vs magnesium, as it works 90% as well and lasts 3-4 times longer in testing. Also, I recommend changing that plastic drain valve to a full port brass valve to allow the large sediment to pass when draining and not break during service. Note removing the anode (1-1/16 socket) is difficult. I find that it is best to use an impact wrench (after depressurizing the tank :)).
Thanks for the info. You may have just saved me from having to get a new hot water heater on Christmas day. I have the same Hot water heater and my pilot light went out on it. went outside and flipped the pressure relief lever and now it is leaking water from the valve. Hopefully I can get a replacement valve in the next couple days
This is a great. I will definitely keep the video for reference. I have been going through water heaters. This is my third one in five years. Great video
Thank you! Super helpful! Had negative double digit temps for past 2 weeks- fixed well, inline plumbing etc but this was the final fix & saved a lot of time/$ on a house call. Will def subscribe!
If the valve keeps leaking after it's replaced, here's another troubleshooting tip. A slow drip indicates a pressure problem. In some situations a check valve or pressure reducing valve is installed, this does not allow water to expand back into the main as it's heated. In this situation there should be an expansion tank installed. If the valve sporadically opens full force and the water is extremely hot, you have a temperature problem. You should check for a faulty thermostat or a grounded heating element.
I had a slight drip from the drain pipe. Switched it back an forth a few times and it appeared to have resolved it. I installed a new one but it has a longer shank. Completely flushed flushed it. Now I have keep shutting off the cold water. I didn't see this video until after. I was able too use the water heater. Just had too turn the cold water off after use. Small drip and start. Now it comes out the drain pipe quit a bit more. I keep the tank temperature high an always have. Nothing I can't see can't live in high temperature. But I could hear air bigtime phseww. But I did not replace the exact same. Not sure what could be the problem. The new part sticks outside the tank longer making it actually easier to remove the drain pipe. Total length is the same threads and all? Pilot lights all that is good. I'm lost on what to do next.
Calcium and other minerals in the water, not sediment, is building up and causing the valve to malfunction. That wouldn’t happen if the valve wasn’t opening slightly every time you use a lot of hot water and the water heater heats up ( and expands) all the cold water that replaced it. An expansion tank would prevent the tank pressure from reaching 150 psi and opening the valve under normal conditions.
When you replace a valve, besides the pressure and temperature rating (150 psi/210°F seems standard, if anyone seen anything else feel free to comment) you also want to make sure the BTU rating on the valve meets or exceeds that of the water heater as shown on the nameplate, for an electric water heater simply multiply the total wattage by 3.4121 to find the BTU/hr. This could save your life, here's why: Should the heater's thermostat malfunction, the water in the tank could become superheated. As the pressure and boiling point increases the tank weakens. If a pipe blows off after the plastic or solder loosens, or the tank splits, the water drops back to atmospheric pressure, increasing the volume 1600 times releasing energy comparable to a pound of nitroglycerin. To prevent this from happening, the T&P valve must be capable of releasing hot water at least the same rate it's heated.
THAAAAAAAAAAANK YOU 🙌🏼💗 At least for now, problem is solved. The day you decided to post this to help other people, that was God touching your heart. 🙏🏼 God bless you 🙏🏼
Sometimes, just turning the relief valve on manually will not clear the sediment built up under the seal. That happened to me. So here's what I did that worked. With a bucket under the valve (I don't have the long copper tubing attached to the valve) I opened the valve wide open for a few seconds, and while the water was flowing, I gently tapped on all the sides of the valve with a closed adjustable wrench. I would caution against hitting it too hard. I did that about 5 times until it worked. Now it does not leak at all. Use caution as the water may be scalding hot depending on your temperature setting.
Cycling the valve a few times worked kind of. It took some tapping on the valve with a hammer to stop the leak entirely. I will be replacing the valve when I replace the dip tube, but for now no more leaks!
When I was a teen living in the old farmhouse all to many years ago lol. We came home after hauling a trailer load of cattle to the slaughter house, turn the bathroom faucet on to wash my hands and the water was searing hot, the T&P valve gushing full blast water was nearly steam. So we threw the breaker off, went to home depot to get a new thermostat for the upper and lower, only this time it kept popping the reset button after the tank kept overheating. Turns out the lower element had split near the middle and was grounding out, completing the 120 V to ground thru the tank and heated non stop regardless of the thermostat. By the time we figured it out the store were closed, so everyone had the privilege of taking a cold shower for the night before bed. 😆
Scott, I just looked over your videos and there are many DIY projects that I could use - SO, AS MY THANKS I gave you a thumbs up and subscribed too. God Bless and thanks again.
Thanks for helping me fix my issue. I tried to drain the heater yesterday and noticed that water was coming out of the drain ... Opened and shut the valve a few times to remove sediments and things are looking good now.
Thank you for the fantastic video! I was able to follow your instructions step by step -- including having to wrestle the old one out and remembering to reattached the hot water outlet. The changing process stirred up some sediment in my pipes, so I had to run my hot water for a little while to clear out the sediment with the air bubbles. But it works great, and I'll take better care of my new valve.
7/7/24 had to change ours out. Could not really see any reason for failure. 🤷♀️. Anyway, 1-2 hiccups but change was easy and appears no leaks. Thank you!
Thanks very much for the explanation. Very well made. Pls allow a comment on the water temperature. . Pls ensure, that the water gets heated up at least once a week above 50°C to kill the Legionella bacteria. These bacteria like it between 20°C and 45°C.
So much info in under 10min… saved me a headache and some money! The cross section view was super helpful in understanding what’s happening in the valve. Thank you sir, Subbed!
great video, I enjoy all the details you add in. I didn't hear anything about electric water heaters but might want to add in the other type as well. like if you have an electric water heater shut off the power at the breaker before you drain any water and only turn it back on you fill the tank back up. else you will fry the elements. anyhoo keep up the good work.
Thank you for the informative video. The valve on my water heater is on the top, I don't know if the valve itself is leaking but I noticed water leaking on top of the water heater where the valve fits into the water heater so I'm thinking about replacing the entire water heater. 🤔 the water heater looked really good when I moved into my house a little over 7 years ago. I told myself to do some maintenance on it periodically but I never did😕. There's what looks like calcium build up on the hot water line going into the house and with this leak I noticed today I'm inclined to just replace it. I got an estimate from a plumber, he said it would cost around $1200, probably more ...hence I'm on RUclips looking for info so I can do it myself.
I just learned to use the pressure-relief valve annually. I had to replace the PSI relief valve (luckily, it was under warranty) because it was dripping; I hadn't tested the relief valve annually for the last 8 years. I also replaced the plastic drain valve with a brass drain valve as a precaution; those plastic drain valves can easily break off. The next time I have to buy a new water heater, it will have a brass drain valve already installed, or I will replace the plastic drain valve with a brass one at the time the new water heater is installed.
Thanks for so many great videos. I recently replaced my old Tank relief valve after it had a couple big leaks (first time in 3 years, since the new tank was installed), the new relief valve didnt do the trick, it seems that the water is being heated too hot. Should I mess with the Expansion tank next? Or should I try and set the water temperature down? Is it possible that during a warm winter and high indoor temps that the system is accidentally running too hot?
The valve as you demonstrated from the side worked, when I pull the lever water does escape, the problem for me is that when the cold water valve is open, I get a huge leak from the top Center of the tank itself. There where the exhaust tubing comes in, whatever that is on my tank in the center between the cold and hot water inlets is where the leak is coming from hot water is leaking out
![Why Is My Water Heater Leaking [Fix It With These 4 Easy Steps]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GkwuzWRzE50/mqdefault.jpg)
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Thank you for the clear concise tutorial with no stupid music intro and unnecessary story line. A pleasure to watch. Great job...
You literally saved me a service call. My valve was leaking and it was sediment stuck in the valve like you explained. Called back to cancel my service call. Sent money your way for saving money😊
Your a good man, we all need to lookout for each other!
Just saved me $300 for an emergency visit. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to do this without you. The manual packaged with my hot water heater had NONE of this in its 30 plus pages of mostly legal disclaimers. Thanks for preventing a flood!!!
As a homeowner, I am learning how to do simple projects to save money. I really dislike calling a plumber in to do a job I can do myself. So thank you for the opportunity to learn something new to help with upkeep on my home. Will tell you how it went. These kind of vlogs are timeless. So awesome 👌🏾 😊👍🏽☑️
My relief valve was continuously dripping. I was ready to purchase a new water heater. I followed your steps and fixed the issue. You saved me ~$1000 on a new unit. Thanks!
I had to replace the valve. Your video was very helpful for 75 year old woman.
You go Louise!!! I'm 55 and have always done as many of my own home repairs and maintenance myself. Some people act like we aren't equipped to do some things. Turns out, a penis is not required equipment for almost anything!!!
LoL!
yours was the first video that came up when I searched for this issue....2:30 in, and my problem has been resolved. The flush out was all it needed. THANK YOU!!!!
Great video. 1st option, actually increased the leak (once in a couple minutes drip to every second drip) once I opened, let it run, then closed the valve (mini buckets were already on standby). I'm assuming more build up made it's way through, not allowing the valve to close as before. I followed the steps and went to option two. The instructions were spot on. I changed the valve. No leaks, so far so good. I do believe the draining process (i did a combinatiom of a flush and gravity drain for the 10gallons), disrupted the sediment build up. So my water is running light brown. Lets see how long b4 that normalizes. Thanks again.
Same here. Made the leak worse! Looks like a new valve is in order but video was helpful!
You need to flip it on and off a few times quickly hopefully that works if you didn't replace yet
I have the same thing. One drop per 30 second or 1 min. Brand new house for only 2 years. Is the valve needed to change?
I was amazed that my valve looked like your valve from a 6 years old hot water tank that uses well water only, and yes I did have to replace it. Your excellant video saved me the cost of a plumber when I really need one for stuff I can't handle.
Well done - not only explained what to do, but explained why the problem occurs (with great cut-aways). This is how tutorials should be -
Awesome information, thanks for showing what a used valve looks like. Actually shows what I’m getting into
Sediment getting caught in the T&P valve causing a leak. Genius!! This worked for me and now I don’t have to empty out a pan 2-3x per day. Thank you!
Love the fact that failure was related only to corrosion-Seat interference or total valve corrosion. Even I was smart enough to clear the seal interference, saved me a service call-
Thx
Excellent tutorial, I changed the valve which had stuck a long time ago and was now dripping seriously. I hadn't realised the valve should be occasionally exercised. I was dreading getting a plumber out (£100 to have a look...) but did this myself easily for a £23.00 replacement valve.
10/10! Best instruction site for me, you cover EVERYTHING I need to know. I love the cutaway parts. Brilliant idea. Excellent instructor, Sir, thank you! 😄
Hey Johnnie, thanks so much for the kind words and support!
I had already subscribed because of your electrical videos, but this one popped up in search when my hot water heater started dripping after turning the gas off/on. At the moment, it has stopped dripping after just opening the valve and hopefully stays that way!
You are a very good teacher. I will send some money.
You do an excellent job at explaining the steps required to fix either issue... that as an average DYIer I can follow easily . Thank you
HOLY CRAP that worked!!
If my situation helps ,awesome. I haven’t flashed my water heater in 4+ years.
My release valve went off a few times when I resealed it up to fill the tank to flush it more than once. Im a noob so I forgot to turn off the sink here and there and I did hear my sink sputter with air pressure to.
After doing so for 3-5 hours last night I woke up in the morning to find my garage floor still wet from the dripping release valve.
I flushed it HARD a few times and it WORKED!!! So glad I don’t have to go to Home Depot or anything
Thanks for cutting that relief valve, it was very interesting to see. That was a smart thing to do.
Great video. Much appreciated. I tried flushing it a couple of times but opened the valve just partially and it didn't solve the problem - in fact, it made the leak worse. But I decided to try it once more with the valve all the way open and that did the trick. Didn't realize I had to "exercise" that valve once a year - I'll start doing that now along with my bi-annual tank flush.
Amazing. I just did this and taught my 11yo how to do it, all in about 15min. Thank you!
Heck yeah 🙌
I bought this water heater ruclips.net/user/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
Excellent video and explanations. Very helpful to understand. The only difference on my water heater is the relief valve is located on top of the unit. Mine just has a plug where yours is located. Thank you sir 🙏🏻
Appreciate you showing the internals of it. Does make it easier to figure out how/why to fix something if you know how it works.
Thank you so much for this ! You always explain things very clearly to those of us who need your help, and without being condescending, in any way. Definitely my go to guy for all things maintenance. Once again, thank you, and best wishes !
Very helpful!! I did one thing differently. I drained water by taking out the relief valve. It's a bit messay at first, but it flushes out all the sediment from the fitting so you don't really risk the sediment falling into the tank.
New home owner and I kept finding water in the middle of the floor could not find for the life of me sat in the room for like 4 hours then randomly I see it just start draining on to my floor >-> flushed it like you said and sprayed all kinds of junk hopefully that cured my problem thank you!
Wow! So my tank has been leaking for a while. I thought it was over heating issue. I flushed the tank yesterday till it was clear. Last night it was leaking really bad at the pop off. I saw your video I just had to try it. Well good thing it worked!! Wow now just drying the area out. I'm going to flush that valve out a couple times a year and do the tank once a year. I am on well water so lots of hard water lime. My last tank lasted about 10 years with no flushing 🤣. Thank you!
I was getting two 3 pound coffee cans a day leaking. The flush did the trick. No drips!!! Thanks,
Thanks Scott. I followed your video and replaced my valve. Worked like a charm. It helps to know the tips and tricks. Thanks again.
Exercising the valve worked a treat. Thank you! I’ll set a reminder to do that once or twice a year.
Good to know. About to try this
11/10 Thanks for great instructions. Was able to replace valve for $18.00 and less than 1/2 hour of work.
Omg the first one worked I was about to cry 😂😂😂😂 thank youuuu no more leaking
Thank you so much. Hot started leaking steadily. I lifted handle and brown water came out for a minute. I let in run out for a minute or two then let go.leak stopped. You were so I credibly helpful. Thanks again
Your flush it method worked like a charm! Your explanation was top notch! Thanks for saving me from the wasted trip to HD and a repair I was uncertain of.💪
Nice! Had to do fix #2 but really easy to follow instructions. And a 20$ fix rather than a call-out to a tech! Thanks!
Great video, followed all the tips and it all worked with no more leak.
Thank you so much for sharing. I was cramping my pants thinking I had to replace to tank. Mine was leaking pretty bad. Flushed it and it stopped leaking. I’ll keep an eye on it to see if it leaks.
Great Instrution Video. Direct and to the point, thanks for not jumping through the procedures. Had to change the complete valve.
Opening and closing my old valve worked for me. Sure enough sediment shot out and it stopped leaking. Thank you!
Good work. On a gas tank like yours, don't turn the temperature dial setting down, simply turn the control from the "on" position to the "pilot" position. Then when finished, turn it back to the on position. The tank temperature will be returned to your normal temperature, without having to try to reestablish its temperature dial to its previous setting.
Good callout Dave, appreciate the help 👍
Good advice, David, thanks.
I just replaced our water heater and this valve was leaking! Thanks for the tip to flush it out - that seems to have worked!
I deal with pressure valve quite often.sometimes there is bleeder thank so it make more labor intense. Apreciate your effort to explained it, do come handy for the ones that don't know and is doing themselves
Great video and demo of valve! Question. My safety valve is on top. I will try fix number 1 first. Doubt it works. Recently replaced anode. It was about 3" long!
UPDATE: As you suggested I worked the release valve back and forth several times. Emptied the water bucket.. probably filled a quart up every 36 hours. Checked it this morning and the bucket is dry. THANK YOU for the instructional video. Saved me $$$$ from buying tools for cutting and soldering a copper pipe and from removing and replacing the valve!
great instruction video. just went through flushing the valve and turned tank heater back on to see if that fixed it. Ill be back for other DYI videos!
Clearing the valve seems to have helped. I have old pipes and there was some rust debris stuck in the valve after clearing it. Good tips👍
You do an excellent job at explaining the steps required to fix either issue. I can follow easily . I tried the easy and it does not seem to work.Thank you
Just Flushing, Worked Perfect, No More Drips. After Turning Up Temp. THANKS,.!!!
You bet!
Great instructional video.
I recommend that you do another video showing the replacement of the anode rod and flushing. I recommend an aluminum rod vs magnesium, as it works 90% as well and lasts 3-4 times longer in testing. Also, I recommend changing that plastic drain valve to a full port brass valve to allow the large sediment to pass when draining and not break during service. Note removing the anode (1-1/16 socket) is difficult. I find that it is best to use an impact wrench (after depressurizing the tank :)).
Two men with 3' large pipe on socket didn't budge it. Impact wrench... Boom, done.
Your video just help me save some money and made me look like a hero to my wife Thank u sir really appreciate u posting this video
Cross sectional view of valve was nice to see. thanks
Thank you for the video ... I just had to flush and it quit leaking..without your help I would not have had a clue..Thanks again
Thanks for the info. You may have just saved me from having to get a new hot water heater on Christmas day. I have the same Hot water heater and my pilot light went out on it. went outside and flipped the pressure relief lever and now it is leaking water from the valve. Hopefully I can get a replacement valve in the next couple days
I just tried your method. It took a few times draining the valve into a bucket until te leaking stopped. 👍
Thanks! Quick and to the point... Now.. I go and do mine.. If by chance you hear a loud explosion.. well.. I digress.. Cheers!
This is a great. I will definitely keep the video for reference. I have been going through water heaters. This is my third one in five years. Great video
Hey Hassan! Dang, 3 in 5 years is a bit aggressive. Wonder if there is something else going on. 🤔
Richmonds?
Thank you! Super helpful! Had negative double digit temps for past 2 weeks- fixed well, inline plumbing etc but this was the final fix & saved a lot of time/$ on a house call. Will def subscribe!
You explain every repair so well! Again and again! THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge.
Great video. I changed mine about 2 years ago and it was easy. And I'm not sharpest tool in the shed.
Thank you. Just flushed it 3 times. Now it closes. Holiday hot water usage was very high.
Replaced my valve. Fixed the problem. Very easy. I tried to exercise the valve but that didn’t work.
If the valve keeps leaking after it's replaced, here's another troubleshooting tip. A slow drip indicates a pressure problem. In some situations a check valve or pressure reducing valve is installed, this does not allow water to expand back into the main as it's heated. In this situation there should be an expansion tank installed. If the valve sporadically opens full force and the water is extremely hot, you have a temperature problem. You should check for a faulty thermostat or a grounded heating element.
Good stuff Kyle, appreciate the additional tips 👍👍
I had a failed expansion tank once, so that's another possibility.
I had a slight drip from the drain pipe. Switched it back an forth a few times and it appeared to have resolved it. I installed a new one but it has a longer shank. Completely flushed flushed it. Now I have keep shutting off the cold water. I didn't see this video until after. I was able too use the water heater. Just had too turn the cold water off after use. Small drip and start. Now it comes out the drain pipe quit a bit more. I keep the tank temperature high an always have. Nothing I can't see can't live in high temperature. But I could hear air bigtime phseww. But I did not replace the exact same. Not sure what could be the problem. The new part sticks outside the tank longer making it actually easier to remove the drain pipe. Total length is the same threads and all? Pilot lights all that is good. I'm lost on what to do next.
@@margretblair5389 A spelling check might be a good place to start!
Calcium and other minerals in the water, not sediment, is building up and causing the valve to malfunction. That wouldn’t happen if the valve wasn’t opening slightly every time you use a lot of hot water and the water heater heats up ( and expands) all the cold water that replaced it. An expansion tank would prevent the tank pressure from reaching 150 psi and opening the valve under normal conditions.
When you replace a valve, besides the pressure and temperature rating (150 psi/210°F seems standard, if anyone seen anything else feel free to comment) you also want to make sure the BTU rating on the valve meets or exceeds that of the water heater as shown on the nameplate, for an electric water heater simply multiply the total wattage by 3.4121 to find the BTU/hr. This could save your life, here's why: Should the heater's thermostat malfunction, the water in the tank could become superheated. As the pressure and boiling point increases the tank weakens. If a pipe blows off after the plastic or solder loosens, or the tank splits, the water drops back to atmospheric pressure, increasing the volume 1600 times releasing energy comparable to a pound of nitroglycerin. To prevent this from happening, the T&P valve must be capable of releasing hot water at least the same rate it's heated.
Thank you for posting this video. Just fixed my faulty Relief Valve, following your instructions.
Step 1 worked like a charm. Thanks for explaining how it works!
Thank you for this excellent video. The sediment in the valve is the problem.
You explain everything so well that I have learned so much from your videos.
Thanks for the support Gene, we will keep the videos coming 👍
Thank you! Your videos are consistently high quality and easy to follow step by step.
Had to replace the entire value. thanks for the step by step directions.
Flushing fixed my drip problem. Thanks for sharing
I have just gotten one step closer to being the smartest man on Earth,Thanks for the video
I am here to support you in your journey 👊
THAAAAAAAAAAANK YOU 🙌🏼💗 At least for now, problem is solved. The day you decided to post this to help other people, that was God touching your heart. 🙏🏼 God bless you 🙏🏼
Sometimes, just turning the relief valve on manually will not clear the sediment built up under the seal. That happened to me. So here's what I did that worked. With a bucket under the valve (I don't have the long copper tubing attached to the valve) I opened the valve wide open for a few seconds, and while the water was flowing, I gently tapped on all the sides of the valve with a closed adjustable wrench. I would caution against hitting it too hard. I did that about 5 times until it worked. Now it does not leak at all. Use caution as the water may be scalding hot depending on your temperature setting.
Super helpful video. Thanks for helping a very unhandy man fix a problem.
Great video with clear instructions. Was able to swap out my pressure relief valve no problem
Cycling the valve a few times worked kind of. It took some tapping on the valve with a hammer to stop the leak entirely. I will be replacing the valve when I replace the dip tube, but for now no more leaks!
I replaced the rinky dink valve that came with my WH with a brass ball-valve and nipple with a hose thread. Draining and flushing are now much easier.
Thanks.
Happy this video was clear and to the point, and that there isn't some irritating music!
When I was a teen living in the old farmhouse all to many years ago lol. We came home after hauling a trailer load of cattle to the slaughter house, turn the bathroom faucet on to wash my hands and the water was searing hot, the T&P valve gushing full blast water was nearly steam. So we threw the breaker off, went to home depot to get a new thermostat for the upper and lower, only this time it kept popping the reset button after the tank kept overheating. Turns out the lower element had split near the middle and was grounding out, completing the 120 V to ground thru the tank and heated non stop regardless of the thermostat. By the time we figured it out the store were closed, so everyone had the privilege of taking a cold shower for the night before bed. 😆
Good story 👊 and cold shower are good for you 🥶
GREAT VIDEO!! You touched on the exact issue I was looking to fix. I'm going to try the simple test now, and hope that will solve it.
Scott, I just looked over your videos and there are many DIY projects that I could use - SO, AS MY THANKS I gave you a thumbs up and subscribed too. God Bless and thanks again.
Awesome, welcome to the channel and thanks for the support 👍
Thanks for helping me fix my issue. I tried to drain the heater yesterday and noticed that water was coming out of the drain ...
Opened and shut the valve a few times to remove sediments and things are looking good now.
Thanks for the video man! Came home to water all over the floor. Hardware stores closed, but flushing worked for me. Again THANK YOU 😁
Thanks so much my friend. My system was different but with your tips it could be fixed anyhow 👍
Thank you for the fantastic video! I was able to follow your instructions step by step -- including having to wrestle the old one out and remembering to reattached the hot water outlet. The changing process stirred up some sediment in my pipes, so I had to run my hot water for a little while to clear out the sediment with the air bubbles. But it works great, and I'll take better care of my new valve.
7/7/24 had to change ours out. Could not really see any reason for failure. 🤷♀️. Anyway, 1-2 hiccups but change was easy and appears no leaks. Thank you!
Thanks very much for the explanation. Very well made. Pls allow a comment on the water temperature. . Pls ensure, that the water gets heated up at least once a week above 50°C to kill the Legionella bacteria. These bacteria like it between 20°C and 45°C.
Thanks for the informative video… I did both steps as releasing the valve didn’t work. Your video guided me through it and made it easy! Great job 👏🏻
So much info in under 10min… saved me a headache and some money! The cross section view was super helpful in understanding what’s happening in the valve. Thank you sir, Subbed!
Flushing worked. Thanks for uploading this.
You bet!
great video, I enjoy all the details you add in. I didn't hear anything about electric water heaters but might want to add in the other type as well. like if you have an electric water heater shut off the power at the breaker before you drain any water and only turn it back on you fill the tank back up. else you will fry the elements. anyhoo keep up the good work.
Thank you for the informative video. The valve on my water heater is on the top, I don't know if the valve itself is leaking but I noticed water leaking on top of the water heater where the valve fits into the water heater so I'm thinking about replacing the entire water heater. 🤔 the water heater looked really good when I moved into my house a little over 7 years ago. I told myself to do some maintenance on it periodically but I never did😕. There's what looks like calcium build up on the hot water line going into the house and with this leak I noticed today I'm inclined to just replace it. I got an estimate from a plumber, he said it would cost around $1200, probably more ...hence I'm on RUclips looking for info so I can do it myself.
I just learned to use the pressure-relief valve annually. I had to replace the PSI relief valve (luckily, it was under warranty) because it was dripping; I hadn't tested the relief valve annually for the last 8 years. I also replaced the plastic drain valve with a brass drain valve as a precaution; those plastic drain valves can easily break off.
The next time I have to buy a new water heater, it will have a brass drain valve already installed, or I will replace the plastic drain valve with a brass one at the time the new water heater is installed.
Thank you for this video.
My water heater makes knuckling noise, should I be concerned about that?
Thank you 🙏🏼
I flushed mine and it fixed it. Nice! Thank you!!
If the pressure relief valve looks like that, I can only imagine what the inside of the tank looks like! And the anode!
Amazing tutorial, clean instruction, big money saver. Thank you!
Thanks for so many great videos. I recently replaced my old Tank relief valve after it had a couple big leaks (first time in 3 years, since the new tank was installed), the new relief valve didnt do the trick, it seems that the water is being heated too hot. Should I mess with the Expansion tank next? Or should I try and set the water temperature down? Is it possible that during a warm winter and high indoor temps that the system is accidentally running too hot?
The valve as you demonstrated from the side worked, when I pull the lever water does escape, the problem for me is that when the cold water valve is open, I get a huge leak from the top Center of the tank itself. There where the exhaust tubing comes in, whatever that is on my tank in the center between the cold and hot water inlets is where the leak is coming from hot water is leaking out
Excellent well explained video, I'm ready to start testing this yearly.
Saved me a service call. Thank you