All My Favorite DIY Tools: geni.us/VYIp51 DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Just saved me $300 for an emergency visit. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to do this without you. The manual packaged with my hot water heater had NONE of this in its 30 plus pages of mostly legal disclaimers. Thanks for preventing a flood!!!
You literally saved me a service call. My valve was leaking and it was sediment stuck in the valve like you explained. Called back to cancel my service call. Sent money your way for saving money😊
As a homeowner, I am learning how to do simple projects to save money. I really dislike calling a plumber in to do a job I can do myself. So thank you for the opportunity to learn something new to help with upkeep on my home. Will tell you how it went. These kind of vlogs are timeless. So awesome 👌🏾 😊👍🏽☑️
My relief valve was continuously dripping. I was ready to purchase a new water heater. I followed your steps and fixed the issue. You saved me ~$1000 on a new unit. Thanks!
You go Louise!!! I'm 55 and have always done as many of my own home repairs and maintenance myself. Some people act like we aren't equipped to do some things. Turns out, a penis is not required equipment for almost anything!!! LoL!
yours was the first video that came up when I searched for this issue....2:30 in, and my problem has been resolved. The flush out was all it needed. THANK YOU!!!!
I was amazed that my valve looked like your valve from a 6 years old hot water tank that uses well water only, and yes I did have to replace it. Your excellant video saved me the cost of a plumber when I really need one for stuff I can't handle.
Love the fact that failure was related only to corrosion-Seat interference or total valve corrosion. Even I was smart enough to clear the seal interference, saved me a service call- Thx
10/10! Best instruction site for me, you cover EVERYTHING I need to know. I love the cutaway parts. Brilliant idea. Excellent instructor, Sir, thank you! 😄
I bought this water heater ruclips.net/user/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
Excellent tutorial, I changed the valve which had stuck a long time ago and was now dripping seriously. I hadn't realised the valve should be occasionally exercised. I was dreading getting a plumber out (£100 to have a look...) but did this myself easily for a £23.00 replacement valve.
Great video. 1st option, actually increased the leak (once in a couple minutes drip to every second drip) once I opened, let it run, then closed the valve (mini buckets were already on standby). I'm assuming more build up made it's way through, not allowing the valve to close as before. I followed the steps and went to option two. The instructions were spot on. I changed the valve. No leaks, so far so good. I do believe the draining process (i did a combinatiom of a flush and gravity drain for the 10gallons), disrupted the sediment build up. So my water is running light brown. Lets see how long b4 that normalizes. Thanks again.
HOLY CRAP that worked!! If my situation helps ,awesome. I haven’t flashed my water heater in 4+ years. My release valve went off a few times when I resealed it up to fill the tank to flush it more than once. Im a noob so I forgot to turn off the sink here and there and I did hear my sink sputter with air pressure to. After doing so for 3-5 hours last night I woke up in the morning to find my garage floor still wet from the dripping release valve. I flushed it HARD a few times and it WORKED!!! So glad I don’t have to go to Home Depot or anything
Method 1 just turned the drip into a small stream. Not able to turn it off any further. Some sediment did drain into a cook pot, but not a whole lot. Fortunately I had an available condensate pump nearby to catch the drainage prevent a small flood. Hopefully this gets us through the night for a valve replacement (plumber called) tomorrow. Regardless this is a GREAT DIY video that I found extremely helpful. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this ! You always explain things very clearly to those of us who need your help, and without being condescending, in any way. Definitely my go to guy for all things maintenance. Once again, thank you, and best wishes !
Mine actually was the valve! The white tube over the heating element was cracked. I think this actually triggered the valve to stay open. This week I was getting ~ 2 or 3 gallons per day out of the valve into a 5 gallon bucket!. New valve, no drips and I tested it and the water stops dripping after operating the valve. Thanks for your clear instructions.
THAAAAAAAAAAANK YOU 🙌🏼💗 At least for now, problem is solved. The day you decided to post this to help other people, that was God touching your heart. 🙏🏼 God bless you 🙏🏼
Good work. On a gas tank like yours, don't turn the temperature dial setting down, simply turn the control from the "on" position to the "pilot" position. Then when finished, turn it back to the on position. The tank temperature will be returned to your normal temperature, without having to try to reestablish its temperature dial to its previous setting.
I had already subscribed because of your electrical videos, but this one popped up in search when my hot water heater started dripping after turning the gas off/on. At the moment, it has stopped dripping after just opening the valve and hopefully stays that way! You are a very good teacher. I will send some money.
Wow! So my tank has been leaking for a while. I thought it was over heating issue. I flushed the tank yesterday till it was clear. Last night it was leaking really bad at the pop off. I saw your video I just had to try it. Well good thing it worked!! Wow now just drying the area out. I'm going to flush that valve out a couple times a year and do the tank once a year. I am on well water so lots of hard water lime. My last tank lasted about 10 years with no flushing 🤣. Thank you!
Great video. Much appreciated. I tried flushing it a couple of times but opened the valve just partially and it didn't solve the problem - in fact, it made the leak worse. But I decided to try it once more with the valve all the way open and that did the trick. Didn't realize I had to "exercise" that valve once a year - I'll start doing that now along with my bi-annual tank flush.
Hi Scott! I am a 36 year old woman. Your video was very helpful and you broke it down step by step to where I was able to follow along. I had to replace the valve due to all the residue that was built up on it. The only problem now is that there is no water coming out of my kitchen faucet 😅
When I was a teen living in the old farmhouse all to many years ago lol. We came home after hauling a trailer load of cattle to the slaughter house, turn the bathroom faucet on to wash my hands and the water was searing hot, the T&P valve gushing full blast water was nearly steam. So we threw the breaker off, went to home depot to get a new thermostat for the upper and lower, only this time it kept popping the reset button after the tank kept overheating. Turns out the lower element had split near the middle and was grounding out, completing the 120 V to ground thru the tank and heated non stop regardless of the thermostat. By the time we figured it out the store were closed, so everyone had the privilege of taking a cold shower for the night before bed. 😆
New home owner and I kept finding water in the middle of the floor could not find for the life of me sat in the room for like 4 hours then randomly I see it just start draining on to my floor >-> flushed it like you said and sprayed all kinds of junk hopefully that cured my problem thank you!
Your flush it method worked like a charm! Your explanation was top notch! Thanks for saving me from the wasted trip to HD and a repair I was uncertain of.💪
Very helpful!! I did one thing differently. I drained water by taking out the relief valve. It's a bit messay at first, but it flushes out all the sediment from the fitting so you don't really risk the sediment falling into the tank.
Excellent video and explanations. Very helpful to understand. The only difference on my water heater is the relief valve is located on top of the unit. Mine just has a plug where yours is located. Thank you sir 🙏🏻
If the valve keeps leaking after it's replaced, here's another troubleshooting tip. A slow drip indicates a pressure problem. In some situations a check valve or pressure reducing valve is installed, this does not allow water to expand back into the main as it's heated. In this situation there should be an expansion tank installed. If the valve sporadically opens full force and the water is extremely hot, you have a temperature problem. You should check for a faulty thermostat or a grounded heating element.
I had a slight drip from the drain pipe. Switched it back an forth a few times and it appeared to have resolved it. I installed a new one but it has a longer shank. Completely flushed flushed it. Now I have keep shutting off the cold water. I didn't see this video until after. I was able too use the water heater. Just had too turn the cold water off after use. Small drip and start. Now it comes out the drain pipe quit a bit more. I keep the tank temperature high an always have. Nothing I can't see can't live in high temperature. But I could hear air bigtime phseww. But I did not replace the exact same. Not sure what could be the problem. The new part sticks outside the tank longer making it actually easier to remove the drain pipe. Total length is the same threads and all? Pilot lights all that is good. I'm lost on what to do next.
Calcium and other minerals in the water, not sediment, is building up and causing the valve to malfunction. That wouldn’t happen if the valve wasn’t opening slightly every time you use a lot of hot water and the water heater heats up ( and expands) all the cold water that replaced it. An expansion tank would prevent the tank pressure from reaching 150 psi and opening the valve under normal conditions.
Thank you so much. Hot started leaking steadily. I lifted handle and brown water came out for a minute. I let in run out for a minute or two then let go.leak stopped. You were so I credibly helpful. Thanks again
Great instructional video. I recommend that you do another video showing the replacement of the anode rod and flushing. I recommend an aluminum rod vs magnesium, as it works 90% as well and lasts 3-4 times longer in testing. Also, I recommend changing that plastic drain valve to a full port brass valve to allow the large sediment to pass when draining and not break during service. Note removing the anode (1-1/16 socket) is difficult. I find that it is best to use an impact wrench (after depressurizing the tank :)).
When you replace a valve, besides the pressure and temperature rating (150 psi/210°F seems standard, if anyone seen anything else feel free to comment) you also want to make sure the BTU rating on the valve meets or exceeds that of the water heater as shown on the nameplate, for an electric water heater simply multiply the total wattage by 3.4121 to find the BTU/hr. This could save your life, here's why: Should the heater's thermostat malfunction, the water in the tank could become superheated. As the pressure and boiling point increases the tank weakens. If a pipe blows off after the plastic or solder loosens, or the tank splits, the water drops back to atmospheric pressure, increasing the volume 1600 times releasing energy comparable to a pound of nitroglycerin. To prevent this from happening, the T&P valve must be capable of releasing hot water at least the same rate it's heated.
Thank you! Super helpful! Had negative double digit temps for past 2 weeks- fixed well, inline plumbing etc but this was the final fix & saved a lot of time/$ on a house call. Will def subscribe!
This is a great. I will definitely keep the video for reference. I have been going through water heaters. This is my third one in five years. Great video
Thanks for the info. You may have just saved me from having to get a new hot water heater on Christmas day. I have the same Hot water heater and my pilot light went out on it. went outside and flipped the pressure relief lever and now it is leaking water from the valve. Hopefully I can get a replacement valve in the next couple days
great instruction video. just went through flushing the valve and turned tank heater back on to see if that fixed it. Ill be back for other DYI videos!
I deal with pressure valve quite often.sometimes there is bleeder thank so it make more labor intense. Apreciate your effort to explained it, do come handy for the ones that don't know and is doing themselves
Thank you so much for sharing. I was cramping my pants thinking I had to replace to tank. Mine was leaking pretty bad. Flushed it and it stopped leaking. I’ll keep an eye on it to see if it leaks.
Great video and demo of valve! Question. My safety valve is on top. I will try fix number 1 first. Doubt it works. Recently replaced anode. It was about 3" long! UPDATE: As you suggested I worked the release valve back and forth several times. Emptied the water bucket.. probably filled a quart up every 36 hours. Checked it this morning and the bucket is dry. THANK YOU for the instructional video. Saved me $$$$ from buying tools for cutting and soldering a copper pipe and from removing and replacing the valve!
You do an excellent job at explaining the steps required to fix either issue. I can follow easily . I tried the easy and it does not seem to work.Thank you
So much info in under 10min… saved me a headache and some money! The cross section view was super helpful in understanding what’s happening in the valve. Thank you sir, Subbed!
great video, I enjoy all the details you add in. I didn't hear anything about electric water heaters but might want to add in the other type as well. like if you have an electric water heater shut off the power at the breaker before you drain any water and only turn it back on you fill the tank back up. else you will fry the elements. anyhoo keep up the good work.
Thank you for the fantastic video! I was able to follow your instructions step by step -- including having to wrestle the old one out and remembering to reattached the hot water outlet. The changing process stirred up some sediment in my pipes, so I had to run my hot water for a little while to clear out the sediment with the air bubbles. But it works great, and I'll take better care of my new valve.
Dude! You saved me probably thousands of dollars. I was able to fix my water heater with no tools and most of all NO MONEY! My wife had already began looking at "cute" tankless water heaters. LOL. I'd never seen so many links to my text messages of "cute" water heaters in my life!! Needless to say, she is not a fan of yours. She calls you Mr. Know It All!! LOL Never mind her I am a big fan. I owe you at least a week of wages! New sub here.
Cycling the valve a few times worked kind of. It took some tapping on the valve with a hammer to stop the leak entirely. I will be replacing the valve when I replace the dip tube, but for now no more leaks!
Scott, I just looked over your videos and there are many DIY projects that I could use - SO, AS MY THANKS I gave you a thumbs up and subscribed too. God Bless and thanks again.
You actually want your water @ above 140f to prevent legionaires but below 160f to prevent limescale. If you're concerned about scalding you should fit TRVs and not reduce the CH temp.
When you open drain valve sometimes sediment will get in valve and won't close all the way causing it to leak. Then you have to relace it after you clean your tank.
Sometimes, just turning the relief valve on manually will not clear the sediment built up under the seal. That happened to me. So here's what I did that worked. With a bucket under the valve (I don't have the long copper tubing attached to the valve) I opened the valve wide open for a few seconds, and while the water was flowing, I gently tapped on all the sides of the valve with a closed adjustable wrench. I would caution against hitting it too hard. I did that about 5 times until it worked. Now it does not leak at all. Use caution as the water may be scalding hot depending on your temperature setting.
![Why Is My Water Heater Leaking [Fix It With These 4 Easy Steps]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GkwuzWRzE50/mqdefault.jpg)
All My Favorite DIY Tools: geni.us/VYIp51
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Thank you for the clear concise tutorial with no stupid music intro and unnecessary story line. A pleasure to watch. Great job...
Just saved me $300 for an emergency visit. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to do this without you. The manual packaged with my hot water heater had NONE of this in its 30 plus pages of mostly legal disclaimers. Thanks for preventing a flood!!!
You literally saved me a service call. My valve was leaking and it was sediment stuck in the valve like you explained. Called back to cancel my service call. Sent money your way for saving money😊
Your a good man, we all need to lookout for each other!
As a homeowner, I am learning how to do simple projects to save money. I really dislike calling a plumber in to do a job I can do myself. So thank you for the opportunity to learn something new to help with upkeep on my home. Will tell you how it went. These kind of vlogs are timeless. So awesome 👌🏾 😊👍🏽☑️
My relief valve was continuously dripping. I was ready to purchase a new water heater. I followed your steps and fixed the issue. You saved me ~$1000 on a new unit. Thanks!
I had to replace the valve. Your video was very helpful for 75 year old woman.
You go Louise!!! I'm 55 and have always done as many of my own home repairs and maintenance myself. Some people act like we aren't equipped to do some things. Turns out, a penis is not required equipment for almost anything!!!
LoL!
Well done - not only explained what to do, but explained why the problem occurs (with great cut-aways). This is how tutorials should be -
Awesome information, thanks for showing what a used valve looks like. Actually shows what I’m getting into
yours was the first video that came up when I searched for this issue....2:30 in, and my problem has been resolved. The flush out was all it needed. THANK YOU!!!!
I was amazed that my valve looked like your valve from a 6 years old hot water tank that uses well water only, and yes I did have to replace it. Your excellant video saved me the cost of a plumber when I really need one for stuff I can't handle.
Love the fact that failure was related only to corrosion-Seat interference or total valve corrosion. Even I was smart enough to clear the seal interference, saved me a service call-
Thx
10/10! Best instruction site for me, you cover EVERYTHING I need to know. I love the cutaway parts. Brilliant idea. Excellent instructor, Sir, thank you! 😄
Hey Johnnie, thanks so much for the kind words and support!
Thank you for those clear cut directions. I was able to do the number 1 diagnostic and after repeating it I had success.
Amazing. I just did this and taught my 11yo how to do it, all in about 15min. Thank you!
Heck yeah 🙌
Thanks for cutting that relief valve, it was very interesting to see. That was a smart thing to do.
Thanks!
Thanks so much Kurt 🙌
I bought this water heater ruclips.net/user/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
You do an excellent job at explaining the steps required to fix either issue... that as an average DYIer I can follow easily . Thank you
Excellent tutorial, I changed the valve which had stuck a long time ago and was now dripping seriously. I hadn't realised the valve should be occasionally exercised. I was dreading getting a plumber out (£100 to have a look...) but did this myself easily for a £23.00 replacement valve.
Great video. 1st option, actually increased the leak (once in a couple minutes drip to every second drip) once I opened, let it run, then closed the valve (mini buckets were already on standby). I'm assuming more build up made it's way through, not allowing the valve to close as before. I followed the steps and went to option two. The instructions were spot on. I changed the valve. No leaks, so far so good. I do believe the draining process (i did a combinatiom of a flush and gravity drain for the 10gallons), disrupted the sediment build up. So my water is running light brown. Lets see how long b4 that normalizes. Thanks again.
Same here. Made the leak worse! Looks like a new valve is in order but video was helpful!
You need to flip it on and off a few times quickly hopefully that works if you didn't replace yet
I have the same thing. One drop per 30 second or 1 min. Brand new house for only 2 years. Is the valve needed to change?
@@ingteckwee360 Could you please provide an update?
Sediment getting caught in the T&P valve causing a leak. Genius!! This worked for me and now I don’t have to empty out a pan 2-3x per day. Thank you!
HOLY CRAP that worked!!
If my situation helps ,awesome. I haven’t flashed my water heater in 4+ years.
My release valve went off a few times when I resealed it up to fill the tank to flush it more than once. Im a noob so I forgot to turn off the sink here and there and I did hear my sink sputter with air pressure to.
After doing so for 3-5 hours last night I woke up in the morning to find my garage floor still wet from the dripping release valve.
I flushed it HARD a few times and it WORKED!!! So glad I don’t have to go to Home Depot or anything
Method 1 just turned the drip into a small stream. Not able to turn it off any further. Some sediment did drain into a cook pot, but not a whole lot.
Fortunately I had an available condensate pump nearby to catch the drainage prevent a small flood. Hopefully this gets us through the night for a valve replacement (plumber called) tomorrow.
Regardless this is a GREAT DIY video that I found extremely helpful.
Thanks!
I have just gotten one step closer to being the smartest man on Earth,Thanks for the video
I am here to support you in your journey 👊
Thank you so much for this ! You always explain things very clearly to those of us who need your help, and without being condescending, in any way. Definitely my go to guy for all things maintenance. Once again, thank you, and best wishes !
Mine actually was the valve! The white tube over the heating element was cracked. I think this actually triggered the valve to stay open. This week I was getting ~ 2 or 3 gallons per day out of the valve into a 5 gallon bucket!. New valve, no drips and I tested it and the water stops dripping after operating the valve. Thanks for your clear instructions.
THAAAAAAAAAAANK YOU 🙌🏼💗 At least for now, problem is solved. The day you decided to post this to help other people, that was God touching your heart. 🙏🏼 God bless you 🙏🏼
Nice! Had to do fix #2 but really easy to follow instructions. And a 20$ fix rather than a call-out to a tech! Thanks!
Good work. On a gas tank like yours, don't turn the temperature dial setting down, simply turn the control from the "on" position to the "pilot" position. Then when finished, turn it back to the on position. The tank temperature will be returned to your normal temperature, without having to try to reestablish its temperature dial to its previous setting.
Good callout Dave, appreciate the help 👍
Good advice, David, thanks.
I had already subscribed because of your electrical videos, but this one popped up in search when my hot water heater started dripping after turning the gas off/on. At the moment, it has stopped dripping after just opening the valve and hopefully stays that way!
You are a very good teacher. I will send some money.
Omg the first one worked I was about to cry 😂😂😂😂 thank youuuu no more leaking
Appreciate you showing the internals of it. Does make it easier to figure out how/why to fix something if you know how it works.
Wow! So my tank has been leaking for a while. I thought it was over heating issue. I flushed the tank yesterday till it was clear. Last night it was leaking really bad at the pop off. I saw your video I just had to try it. Well good thing it worked!! Wow now just drying the area out. I'm going to flush that valve out a couple times a year and do the tank once a year. I am on well water so lots of hard water lime. My last tank lasted about 10 years with no flushing 🤣. Thank you!
Great video. Much appreciated. I tried flushing it a couple of times but opened the valve just partially and it didn't solve the problem - in fact, it made the leak worse. But I decided to try it once more with the valve all the way open and that did the trick. Didn't realize I had to "exercise" that valve once a year - I'll start doing that now along with my bi-annual tank flush.
Hi Scott! I am a 36 year old woman. Your video was very helpful and you broke it down step by step to where I was able to follow along. I had to replace the valve due to all the residue that was built up on it. The only problem now is that there is no water coming out of my kitchen faucet 😅
Try replacing the screen on the end of your faucet also make sure you turn the cold water back on hahaha
11/10 Thanks for great instructions. Was able to replace valve for $18.00 and less than 1/2 hour of work.
When I was a teen living in the old farmhouse all to many years ago lol. We came home after hauling a trailer load of cattle to the slaughter house, turn the bathroom faucet on to wash my hands and the water was searing hot, the T&P valve gushing full blast water was nearly steam. So we threw the breaker off, went to home depot to get a new thermostat for the upper and lower, only this time it kept popping the reset button after the tank kept overheating. Turns out the lower element had split near the middle and was grounding out, completing the 120 V to ground thru the tank and heated non stop regardless of the thermostat. By the time we figured it out the store were closed, so everyone had the privilege of taking a cold shower for the night before bed. 😆
Good story 👊 and cold shower are good for you 🥶
Your video just help me save some money and made me look like a hero to my wife Thank u sir really appreciate u posting this video
I was getting two 3 pound coffee cans a day leaking. The flush did the trick. No drips!!! Thanks,
New home owner and I kept finding water in the middle of the floor could not find for the life of me sat in the room for like 4 hours then randomly I see it just start draining on to my floor >-> flushed it like you said and sprayed all kinds of junk hopefully that cured my problem thank you!
Your flush it method worked like a charm! Your explanation was top notch! Thanks for saving me from the wasted trip to HD and a repair I was uncertain of.💪
Very helpful!! I did one thing differently. I drained water by taking out the relief valve. It's a bit messay at first, but it flushes out all the sediment from the fitting so you don't really risk the sediment falling into the tank.
Great Instrution Video. Direct and to the point, thanks for not jumping through the procedures. Had to change the complete valve.
Thanks Scott. I followed your video and replaced my valve. Worked like a charm. It helps to know the tips and tricks. Thanks again.
Exercising the valve worked a treat. Thank you! I’ll set a reminder to do that once or twice a year.
Good to know. About to try this
Great video, followed all the tips and it all worked with no more leak.
Excellent video and explanations. Very helpful to understand. The only difference on my water heater is the relief valve is located on top of the unit. Mine just has a plug where yours is located. Thank you sir 🙏🏻
You explain every repair so well! Again and again! THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge.
Cross sectional view of valve was nice to see. thanks
If the valve keeps leaking after it's replaced, here's another troubleshooting tip. A slow drip indicates a pressure problem. In some situations a check valve or pressure reducing valve is installed, this does not allow water to expand back into the main as it's heated. In this situation there should be an expansion tank installed. If the valve sporadically opens full force and the water is extremely hot, you have a temperature problem. You should check for a faulty thermostat or a grounded heating element.
Good stuff Kyle, appreciate the additional tips 👍👍
I had a failed expansion tank once, so that's another possibility.
I had a slight drip from the drain pipe. Switched it back an forth a few times and it appeared to have resolved it. I installed a new one but it has a longer shank. Completely flushed flushed it. Now I have keep shutting off the cold water. I didn't see this video until after. I was able too use the water heater. Just had too turn the cold water off after use. Small drip and start. Now it comes out the drain pipe quit a bit more. I keep the tank temperature high an always have. Nothing I can't see can't live in high temperature. But I could hear air bigtime phseww. But I did not replace the exact same. Not sure what could be the problem. The new part sticks outside the tank longer making it actually easier to remove the drain pipe. Total length is the same threads and all? Pilot lights all that is good. I'm lost on what to do next.
@@margretblair5389 A spelling check might be a good place to start!
Calcium and other minerals in the water, not sediment, is building up and causing the valve to malfunction. That wouldn’t happen if the valve wasn’t opening slightly every time you use a lot of hot water and the water heater heats up ( and expands) all the cold water that replaced it. An expansion tank would prevent the tank pressure from reaching 150 psi and opening the valve under normal conditions.
Thank you! Your videos are consistently high quality and easy to follow step by step.
Thank you so much. Hot started leaking steadily. I lifted handle and brown water came out for a minute. I let in run out for a minute or two then let go.leak stopped. You were so I credibly helpful. Thanks again
Great instructional video.
I recommend that you do another video showing the replacement of the anode rod and flushing. I recommend an aluminum rod vs magnesium, as it works 90% as well and lasts 3-4 times longer in testing. Also, I recommend changing that plastic drain valve to a full port brass valve to allow the large sediment to pass when draining and not break during service. Note removing the anode (1-1/16 socket) is difficult. I find that it is best to use an impact wrench (after depressurizing the tank :)).
Two men with 3' large pipe on socket didn't budge it. Impact wrench... Boom, done.
I just replaced our water heater and this valve was leaking! Thanks for the tip to flush it out - that seems to have worked!
When you replace a valve, besides the pressure and temperature rating (150 psi/210°F seems standard, if anyone seen anything else feel free to comment) you also want to make sure the BTU rating on the valve meets or exceeds that of the water heater as shown on the nameplate, for an electric water heater simply multiply the total wattage by 3.4121 to find the BTU/hr. This could save your life, here's why: Should the heater's thermostat malfunction, the water in the tank could become superheated. As the pressure and boiling point increases the tank weakens. If a pipe blows off after the plastic or solder loosens, or the tank splits, the water drops back to atmospheric pressure, increasing the volume 1600 times releasing energy comparable to a pound of nitroglycerin. To prevent this from happening, the T&P valve must be capable of releasing hot water at least the same rate it's heated.
Thank you! Super helpful! Had negative double digit temps for past 2 weeks- fixed well, inline plumbing etc but this was the final fix & saved a lot of time/$ on a house call. Will def subscribe!
This is a great. I will definitely keep the video for reference. I have been going through water heaters. This is my third one in five years. Great video
Hey Hassan! Dang, 3 in 5 years is a bit aggressive. Wonder if there is something else going on. 🤔
Richmonds?
You explain everything so well that I have learned so much from your videos.
Thanks for the support Gene, we will keep the videos coming 👍
Thanks for the info. You may have just saved me from having to get a new hot water heater on Christmas day. I have the same Hot water heater and my pilot light went out on it. went outside and flipped the pressure relief lever and now it is leaking water from the valve. Hopefully I can get a replacement valve in the next couple days
Thanks! Quick and to the point... Now.. I go and do mine.. If by chance you hear a loud explosion.. well.. I digress.. Cheers!
great instruction video. just went through flushing the valve and turned tank heater back on to see if that fixed it. Ill be back for other DYI videos!
I deal with pressure valve quite often.sometimes there is bleeder thank so it make more labor intense. Apreciate your effort to explained it, do come handy for the ones that don't know and is doing themselves
Thanks.
Happy this video was clear and to the point, and that there isn't some irritating music!
Thank you so much for sharing. I was cramping my pants thinking I had to replace to tank. Mine was leaking pretty bad. Flushed it and it stopped leaking. I’ll keep an eye on it to see if it leaks.
Great video and demo of valve! Question. My safety valve is on top. I will try fix number 1 first. Doubt it works. Recently replaced anode. It was about 3" long!
UPDATE: As you suggested I worked the release valve back and forth several times. Emptied the water bucket.. probably filled a quart up every 36 hours. Checked it this morning and the bucket is dry. THANK YOU for the instructional video. Saved me $$$$ from buying tools for cutting and soldering a copper pipe and from removing and replacing the valve!
You do an excellent job at explaining the steps required to fix either issue. I can follow easily . I tried the easy and it does not seem to work.Thank you
Clearing the valve seems to have helped. I have old pipes and there was some rust debris stuck in the valve after clearing it. Good tips👍
Opening and closing my old valve worked for me. Sure enough sediment shot out and it stopped leaking. Thank you!
Step 1 worked like a charm. Thanks for explaining how it works!
Thank you for the video ... I just had to flush and it quit leaking..without your help I would not have had a clue..Thanks again
Thank you for posting this video. Just fixed my faulty Relief Valve, following your instructions.
Great video with clear instructions. Was able to swap out my pressure relief valve no problem
So much info in under 10min… saved me a headache and some money! The cross section view was super helpful in understanding what’s happening in the valve. Thank you sir, Subbed!
great video, I enjoy all the details you add in. I didn't hear anything about electric water heaters but might want to add in the other type as well. like if you have an electric water heater shut off the power at the breaker before you drain any water and only turn it back on you fill the tank back up. else you will fry the elements. anyhoo keep up the good work.
Great video. I changed mine about 2 years ago and it was easy. And I'm not sharpest tool in the shed.
Had to replace the entire value. thanks for the step by step directions.
Thank you for this excellent video. The sediment in the valve is the problem.
Just Flushing, Worked Perfect, No More Drips. After Turning Up Temp. THANKS,.!!!
You bet!
Thanks for the video man! Came home to water all over the floor. Hardware stores closed, but flushing worked for me. Again THANK YOU 😁
Thank you for the fantastic video! I was able to follow your instructions step by step -- including having to wrestle the old one out and remembering to reattached the hot water outlet. The changing process stirred up some sediment in my pipes, so I had to run my hot water for a little while to clear out the sediment with the air bubbles. But it works great, and I'll take better care of my new valve.
Dude! You saved me probably thousands of dollars. I was able to fix my water heater with no tools and most of all NO MONEY! My wife had already began looking at "cute" tankless water heaters. LOL. I'd never seen so many links to my text messages of "cute" water heaters in my life!!
Needless to say, she is not a fan of yours. She calls you Mr. Know It All!! LOL Never mind her I am a big fan. I owe you at least a week of wages! New sub here.
Excellent content direct to the point w/h cut away. 👍🏻
I just tried your method. It took a few times draining the valve into a bucket until te leaking stopped. 👍
Super helpful video. Thanks for helping a very unhandy man fix a problem.
Great explanation man, Thanks very much!
Cycling the valve a few times worked kind of. It took some tapping on the valve with a hammer to stop the leak entirely. I will be replacing the valve when I replace the dip tube, but for now no more leaks!
GREAT VIDEO!! You touched on the exact issue I was looking to fix. I'm going to try the simple test now, and hope that will solve it.
Scott, I just looked over your videos and there are many DIY projects that I could use - SO, AS MY THANKS I gave you a thumbs up and subscribed too. God Bless and thanks again.
Awesome, welcome to the channel and thanks for the support 👍
Amazing tutorial, clean instruction, big money saver. Thank you!
Thank you. Just flushed it 3 times. Now it closes. Holiday hot water usage was very high.
I flushed mine and it fixed it. Nice! Thank you!!
You actually want your water @ above 140f to prevent legionaires but below 160f to prevent limescale. If you're concerned about scalding you should fit TRVs and not reduce the CH temp.
Thanks so much my friend. My system was different but with your tips it could be fixed anyhow 👍
Replaced my valve. Fixed the problem. Very easy. I tried to exercise the valve but that didn’t work.
Excellent well explained video, I'm ready to start testing this yearly.
When you open drain valve sometimes sediment will get in valve and won't close all the way causing it to leak. Then you have to relace it after you clean your tank.
Sometimes, just turning the relief valve on manually will not clear the sediment built up under the seal. That happened to me. So here's what I did that worked. With a bucket under the valve (I don't have the long copper tubing attached to the valve) I opened the valve wide open for a few seconds, and while the water was flowing, I gently tapped on all the sides of the valve with a closed adjustable wrench. I would caution against hitting it too hard. I did that about 5 times until it worked. Now it does not leak at all. Use caution as the water may be scalding hot depending on your temperature setting.
If the pressure relief valve looks like that, I can only imagine what the inside of the tank looks like! And the anode!
Very helpful! Clear explanation of the parts of the tank and valve👍
Flushing fixed my drip problem. Thanks for sharing