How To Fix A Large Crack In A Concrete Sidewalk | Surprising Results!
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- Опубликовано: 12 май 2024
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I will walk you through the easiest method of fixing/sealing a large gap that is larger than 1" in a concrete sidewalk or driveway. You might be surprised by the readily available items like a pool noodle which work perfectly when you need to seal a large crack with an irregular shape.
Supplies Used
Nylon Cup Brush (For Drill): amzn.to/3I9r8aH
Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL: amzn.to/3kt0yOX
Pool Noodles: amzn.to/3nylSDU
1" Backer Rod (25'): amzn.to/3Dkez9j
3/4" Backer Rod (20'): amzn.to/3Hewssu
5/8" Backer Rod (20'): amzn.to/3F1AZMM
1/2 Backer Rod (20'): amzn.to/3klqCeX
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Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:37 Prework Concrete Crack Prep
1:07 What Options You Have
3:13 Filling The Void And Cutting Pool Noodle To Shape
4:36 Additional Steps Prior To Sealant
5:35 Sealing The Crack With Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL
6:17 Pro Tip To Blend Seam To Concrete
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. 
Хобби
Nice presentation. Having done this job on a windy late-fall day, I appreciate your thoughtful sand idea. Tiny leaves swirling into self-leveling goo is a nightmare.
EXCEPTIONAL tutorial video - so clear, concise and straight to the point! I love the way you cover every little detail, including warning what to do/what NOT to do. You make it look so easy, even I could probably do it. Therefore, I have liked, subscribed & clicked the bell. I will be following you along your journey, so keep up the GREAT work, Scott. U THA' MAN!!!
I don’t even have the problems you fix most of the time, but you’re so engaging to watch, I watch them anyway.
Thanks for the support 👍
The doubled-up duct tape at the edges and sand sprinkled on at the very end were each a nice touch.
Great Video Scot, sprinkling the sand in at the end way a genius idea!
Thanks bro 👊
It genius for more cracks. Conc needs room to expand. Putting sand in the crack does not allow this. Incompressible. Otherwise great video
@@adbates 😂😂you think the pool noodle and caulking will stop the sand from being pushed vertically. Carry on.
@@adbates what?
THANKS!! I've had a large crack in my concrete patio for 25 years without EVER being able to get it fixed but NOW I'll be able to do it myself!!!!
did you do it? How did it turn out?
You are such a great professional 👏 at teaching people the way to fix problems that bug us as we pass by that crack everyday. 🙂
There's a quite satisfaction in seeing a problem get fixed while learning at the same time. Love these types of videos.
Good video thanks……be good to your knees tho…✌🌻
I found this video by accident looking for something else and I'm glad I did! I have a large crack in a sidewalk that I had filled several years ago by a mud jacker. Didn't last only 2 years. Also 2 sections of sidewalk have spread apart and garage floor and driveway have split apart. Should be easy peasy fix for An 84 yr old woman by herself to do! Thanx!
Did this work for your sidewalk plz?
I wish I had known about this long ago!! My dad’s electric wheelchair had a hard time going over gaps, caused by tree roots, when going to our wheelchair van. Sometimes the ramp would settle on a crack and not sit level. This caused the ramp to tilt when he drive the wheelchair into the van. The cracks in the sidewalk were also large and hard to get across. These were situations that were a serious tipping hazard. Sadly, Dad passed away two weeks ago. He’d have approved of your fix. He had ideas like this, too. Thanks for sharing. I’ve subscribed and look forward to more helpful information.
Great idea!! I have multiple cracks on my screened-in back porch concrete floor. Your method should work there too. Thank you so much for sharing.
THis is wonderful! My family and I got a new home and I almost tripped going up the stairs. I definitely will do this to fix the trip spot. Thank you!!!!
I cannot tell you how many projects around my house that you have given me the confidence to do. I really appreciate the information.
Great overview! I've done several of these repairs of irregular cracks using spray foam to create a backer, which is not as easy as it sounds. I've needed to carefully carve down the foam to be below grade, so I get a clean installation of SSL. I'm going to use the pool noodle next time!
Hello 👋
So thankful that I've come across your channel, I'm learning how to care for my home and this video was so helpful! Tfs.
This is nice and I’m glad you showed the trick of sprinkling the sand on top which definitely makes it blend in better! I’ve seen places that were caulked w/o that step and it looks terrible and sticks out like a sore thumb.
Repent to Jesus Christ
“the Lord delights in those who fear him, who put their hope in his unfailing love.”
Psalms 147:11 NIV
J
I wish i knew the sand trick when i sealed a crack in my walk. the lighter sealant really sticks out.
If you use the sand on a crack instead of a joint people tend to bring the caulking to the top and then add sand. The patch will then be higher than the cracks. Make sure you leave it down from the top just a smidge if you are adding sand. I personally dont care for the sand look but its just a preference.
I saw a man fixing and patching someones front steps and he got some dirt and mixed in for it to look more like the old cement he was patching!! not a bunch but enough to take away the "new" look, and it worked!
@@therebellion6911 Hi. What’s the difference between a crack and a joint? Meaning, even if you do a joint, aren’t you supposed to leave the sealant slightly below the concrete to compensate for the sand as well? Thank you
I am a mason for over 35 years and what you did with the pool noodle isn't a bad idea especially with the crooked Crack because the noodle is flexible, but I would suggest using quick-create, just mix with water, it's premixed cement, just add water and mix. Then use a small hand garden shovel it in, push down on the cement to get gaps and air pockets out of the cement. When cement gets to a putty type concestansy take a large damp sponge and run it the length of the Crack and feather it in to both sides of Crack, you can do it with the stuff in the tube but you sill have to feather and level the product that comes out of tube
Yea mate thats good mail , also if it’s a hot day wet the concrete down first so it doesn’t suck that mix too quickly .
@@queenslander954 Good call, give both sides of old concrete a good dampening if it is a hot day👍
What's feathering
@@krazyboutkeekee92 Feathering is moving the new cement up against the old cement, like blending it to the old cement,usually done with a tool called a hand float, but in a homeowners case most likely would have such tool, take a large sponge dip it in water and ring it out so it is just damp and blend it up to old cement, the most important thing is to make sure rain water or sprinkle water does not get into the old Crack. Now it depends on the climate you live in, if it freezes in winter you don't want water to get into repair and sit and freezes, it will Crack. That is the best I can explain, feathering is just blending up to old cement, good luck
Thank you! I was looking for a solution that doesn't involve any plastic!
Omgoodness thank you for the step-by-step tutorial I'm sending this to my landlord.
Thanks for this! Not nearly as much information for large ragged cracks...just the small ones. Gonna buy the materials tonight and get going on my old patio tomorrow! Very clear video!
Always checking back with your channel. Appreciate your simple instruction to a lot of every day issues homeowners experience. Wishing you continued success.
Thanks for the support and we will keep the videos coming 👍
Cool! You make things look easy, yet, doable! I love your pace, explanations, and clarity. Even, I, think I might be able to do that! - I like your videos! 😀 -Thank you!
B😂😢 I just got at 😮😮
Hello 👋
Good stuff, you cant rush the early steps.
I had a boss once that saw me half assing something he said " You do all the steps or you will be stepping to another job" .
Never forget it.
Thank you for your kindness! People like you make a positive difference in our society!
RUclips recommended me this video by accident when I was looking for something else, but I am glad it did! I will be using your method next weekend to fix cracks in the walkway. Thank you for this video.
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Very nice results - looks great! Will be using this repair on sidewalk at an apartment complex.
Heh would you consider showing us how you keep your tools and material organized? Earlier I noticed your tote for electrical connectors. Thinking I need one just like it! For those of us that do sidewalk, yard drainage, electrical and plumbing all in the same week, how to keep everything organized!
Awesome channel for DIYers and multi-trades maintenance folks. Thanks!
Use multiple tool bags. 1 for plumbing, 1 for electrical, 1 for general maintenance, 1 for patching/painting/minor carpentry repairs
I also use plastic 5 gallon buckets to help out. But yeah it gets crazy!!!
Nice video. You could use water pipe wrap. They have 1/2, 3/4 and 1" tubes at your local lumber yard.
Carefully explained & clearly demonstrated, with just the right amount of speed-up, and NO CHITCHAT OR MUSIC. And important info about drainage issues in freeze-thaw climates. Thank you!! Instead of the drill attachment, a wire brush would also work, right?
Excellent tutorial! Thank you so much for sharing this.
Never would have thought of that - great stuff, Scott!
Thanks Nils 👍
This is a pretty elegant solution. I owned a home where the garage slab cracked and had I known how to do this, I would have. This is a 100% solution versus using patchmaster to fill the gap which in hind sight was a 50% solution.
I have 1/4" to 3/4" gaps in several spots. Already had my backer rod. Didn't know what to use for a sealant. The SSL sealant was the final step I needed. The sand topping was a bonus. Great video....thanks. Happy 4th of July.
Sika 2 c ns I think it's called is what I used. I worked industrial. Usually want to use an open cell backer rod
City problem
Yes u have ants mice be3
@@terrymounts4371 - huh?
Careful you dont want to step on the crack that's what my mom said
Man, that was genius. I love the way the sealant is liquidous and self levelling. Neat job. Thumbs up for me.
Awesome step by step tutorial. Thank you for the info.
Awesome way to repair! Quick and concise.
I really appreciate this video! I've tried filling a growing crack in cement with wet cement and dry cement at different times and neither lasted. This is the best, affordable solution in my opinion. Thanks so much for this!
Thank you so much for this solution. I have been trying to figure out how to fix a patio crack in my house. God bless you.
Thank goodness I found you! I have to take care of my home on my own. I wouldn't know some of the pitfalls if you didn't express them. Although I can understand "semi-leveling" v "self leveling" Unless you explained what happens in this instance, I wouldn't understand in its practical usage. Same with the duct tape. Wouldn't have thought to cap the end like that, and if I did....I wouldn't have thought about the caulk sticking without you adding that in. Those 2 things would have made this a fail for me. So thank you so much!
Happy to help and thanks for all the great feedback 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs it would be nice if you would not take blood money from a certain corporation known for anti-social practices...
@@networkedperson are you a woke Lib
@@networkedperson -take a break netwoke person. I guarantee that you’re using products that exploit child labor or that your daily habits are contributing to global warming so please peddle your hypocrisy elsewhere.
@@networkedperson I hope he takes MORE,. screw the loud mouth woke
Much Thanks...
You make it seem very
approachable for a first timer
You got this 👊
Now that is thinking outside the box!
I would have never thought of using a pool noodle like that.
I also would not have thought of putting some sand on top of the sealant! Also brilliant!
Using a pool noodle for backer rod for cracks is absolutely great thinking. The thickness of the calking is critical to making a successful repair. . Read the information on the label to find what that is. To create that consistent thickness, I use a scrap of board with a wooden spacer tacked on it and run it the length of the backer it pushes the backer rod down to the correct depth consistently. When the calk is too thick it doesn't stretch properly and will pull away from the concrete and the joint still leaks.
Wish I’d seen this some years earlier. I have concrete steps with a massive crack that goes always through. I filled it up with spray foam, not the best fix but it keeps the wasps out. I’m going to rework the crack using this method. Thanks.
Great vid! I'm doing this next weekend thanks to your excellent instructions
Well explained and super informative video. Thank your for sharing this. I'll be able to put this to use for sure.
For a more substantial joint, I pack the seam/crack with pea gravel to about half inch depth from the top. Then fill the joint with the joint filler. Much less likely to pop out or be "ejected" due to ground movement.
If you do not fix the problem which caused the crack, there will be trouble on the horizon. I am fixing cracks at our mountain property using an asphalt based Lowe's product, but filling most of the crack with gravel first, then topping it off. Not perfect, cannot be applied too thick at once and it requires going back over more than once after drying in. This guy's method does not look as good for what we have but then none of our gaps are as large, so I can understand that his problem requires a different solution.
@@replyhere590 thanks. The joint filler i use between stones is a flexible epoxy type and it seems to move and stretch somewhat without breaking seal
Very cool, I'm also a crafter so I always have the pool noodles! I also learned from another channel who uses this & foam in his monster props, that you can use a heat gun to make the foam stick/glue itself together if you want to 😉
@Vro - you use a heat gun to make the foam stick to what exactly? Thanks
@@bethanyanderson1745 You can shape it, stretch it, stick it to itself, check out Stiltbeaststudios pool noodle pumpkins. He uses pool noodles, foam pipe insulation all the time & learned the technique from him.
@@Vro- - thank you for replying. I'm not a handyman so perhaps that's why I'm not seeing the connection between filling a cement crack and heating a pool noodle /foam.
What a neat idea! We have lots of cracks to fix and can try this method before tearing it all out and hiring someone. Thanks
I bought an older home and there are a lot of these crakes, this looks like something I can do myself even with my achy old body lol. Thank you so much.
Or pipe insulation tubing.
(SAME material). Just in case pool noodles are out of season.
That’s what I was thinking. Plus pipe insulation is gray, so if it peeks through the sealant it won’t stick out like a sore thumb.
Go with low expansion urethane instead of baker rod. Applied gently with cleaning off the excess after 20-30 min (time to get ready for next step) You will then start to use urethane for almost every gap/void/volume filling inside or outside. Very nice talent that God gave you. You're definitely giving good fruits with all your videos. I like your humility and your hardworking being.
thank you for sharing your knowledge, looking forward to giving it a try with my DIY's!
This is great, thank you for taking the time to make this and post it.
I'll be doing this soon. I was planning to apply a light dusting of cement atop the sealant. I think it would be a better color match than sand. Or is that a bad idea?
I love it. The solid concrete will continue to move but with the sand, foam, and the self leveling caulking will move as the environment demands. Where did you buy the self levelling caulking?
The link is in the description section under the video. Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL: amzn.to/3kt0yOX
LOVED IT and if you have a chance, show us what it looks like after a full season...awesome
Boy...you are a magnet for cement issues! Finally...someone pickier than me...Cool Vid!
For a smaller crack but still large enough that it would need a lot of sealant, I had good results stuffing in pieces of or whole corks saved from wine bottles that I had on hand, then sealant over. I like the suggestion of putting sand in deeper cracks.
What sealant do you use?
I’m a school teacher so THIS, and your previous video of cleaning and sealing smaller driveway cracks, are going to be my first summer mini project. Thanks for a great, solid, straight to the point video. I’ve used a flat bladed shovel and ground clear every year, but now… my game just levels up. Thanks!!
I see you too have the classic Craftsman sidewalk crack scraping tool! This is a neat fix. Will keep this in my back pocket if it comes up for me
Wow, it's amazing that you are sharing this. I will be trying this next .
What I do is, clean as he does, dig out all the debris in the gap (as deep as the concrete is) then tape over the edges and fill the gap with waterproof expanding foam. When that dries I use a wire cup bit on a hand drill to remove excess foam to about 1/2" depth. Then finish up with self leveling sealant caulk.
When you say you tape over the edges, do you mean the cracked edge of the concrete? Does the tape stay in place after the entire repair is finished?
cool idea!
@@annfraley7083 ... Before I apply the expanding foam I mask the edges of the concrete, the top surface. I use 2" painters tape so if there is any over expansion of the foam it won't spill out over the top surface of the concrete. Once the foam has dried, it's easy to break off any excess foam before cutting/grinding out the top 1/2" or so of foam.
I think I might like this idea better as I'm not very good with my hands, and I don't think that I would cut the pool noodle as well as he does. I would probably end up making it look worse than it already does lol. But I liked all the other things that he shared in the video
@@digiacomtech5589 Won't a stiff rotary brush on a drill or grinder buff off any excess foam, overall more quickly than taping as you describe?
Good idea. Have you tried dry cement at the end instead of sand ? It might help blend better.
Wow, you did a beautiful job.....so neat and looks just great when you finished. Great video! 👍👍
Soooooooooooooo glad I ran across your channel. I'm subscribing. I'm learning so much. Please keep up the great work. Thank you.
Welcome to the channel 🙌
Great video! Would you use this technique for a gap between concrete steps and the foundation of a house? The gap is quite deep - about 3 feet down to the ground.
No
If slabs are at different levels, drill a 1/4" hole, insert the nozzle of Expanding Foam and watch the sidewalk rise. May take a couple of cans but much cheaper than calling in a slab jacker.
or dig a 6in deep hole and use a "car floor jack"
Id love to see this without a void. Any videos? I dont see this happening with a slab sitting tight on the ground. Could be wrong.
That doesn't work with cans of expanding foam from places like home improvement stores. Have to have two part (expensive) foam.
@@bran-qt7ds Wrong. It works with good old fashion canned foam you get at the Big Box stores. RUclips is your friend.
@@fartpooboxohyeah8611 you really need to learn the difference between how open cell and two part closed cell foams work. Claiming 'i seen it on RUclips' is certainly amusing though, as if everything on the Internet is real.
Best DIY video I’ve seen for this type of job - thanks!
I’ve been doing Gutters all my life really got me excited when I heard you say Gutters at the end
I used a very similar technique to repair concrete walkway, but instead of sprinkling sand as the last step, I used some dry mortar mix. The finished product will more closely match the concrete walkway.
Great idea.
And as I posted in my own comment, I would use a generous amount and simply sweep off excess the next day.
Thanks for the tip. Just started following you. I've always been a DIYer and always looking for great tips. Thanks 👍
Nice video. Sand at the end definitely helps with mimicking texture of surrounding concrete also
Never thought about filling cracks this way. Thanks for the video!
I tried something a bit different. I used Dow expanding spray foam to fill the crack. It dries quickly, then I used the ssl to seal up. Worked great and saved me the time of having to cut and shape backer foam. A word of caution, don't go buck wild with the spray foam, it expands big time.... Whichever way you go, the crack gets fixed....
👍🏻
They make low expanding.
@@therebellion6911 yeah, I had to learn that the hard way.....lol ...
Warning, I tried expanded foam in a concrete (cement) crack and it did not work. The foam gets chipped out and discolored.
It is very difficult to control joint depth with foam. And for the SSL to perform properly the depth needs to be very consistent. And the profile of the sealant will be incorrect. These things matter for the sealant to perform properly.It is a quicker and easier solution but not a quality solution .
This was a very impressive video . Clear instructions. And a handsome instructor.😻☺️
Excellent idea. Absolute genius! Using pool noodles to fix cracks in a concrete sidewalks. Using pool noodles in your yard is definitely better than letting all those pool noodles get into the wastestream and thus threatening our precious natural resources.
I wish I had this video 15 years ago. I had a few big cracks close to the foundation of my house causing a leak into my basement. I was able to stop the leak, but not as efficiently as this! So ThankYou for this very informative video!
Repent to Jesus Christ
“the Lord delights in those who fear him, who put their hope in his unfailing love.”
Psalms 147:11 NIV
@@repentandbelieveinJesusChrist3 really?
13:20 I've also mixed spare Mortar Powder with the Sand, for repairs like this.
Seem to me that the Powder would harden, and prevent the Sand from washing away.
I saw your other video where you filled the crack in front of your garage and liked it a lot!
With a crack this large (like I have in my garage) I may lean more toward quickrete so it isn’t just a thin layer connecting the two chunks of concrete
This was so satisfying to watch lol nice job 👊🏼
Thanks buddy 👍
Essentially a large size foam backer rod. My Grandfather used to use the tiny backer rods to fill sidewalk cracks followed up with some sort of concrete compatible caulking. I'm not sure what he used but his repairs would often last more than a decade. I could probably swing by his home that he lived in long ago and built in 1986 and they'd still be there long after my Grandfather has been gone.
OMG! I just used pieces of a pool noodle to help fill in a crack last week. Worked like a charm.
fantastic idea to use the pool noodle, and easy to follow for DIY'er like me. thumbs up 👍🏻 !
I love this content. Cracks in concrete are a pain and if you don’t know what to do it becomes a pain one way or the other. Thanks bud.
This is a cool idea but I've found that using spray foam is much easier as it conforms to every bit of the crack in there and there's no need to make cuts unless you use too much
Thank you for this informative, money-saving video.
You could use an expandable foam vs. the Backer rod so you can avoid going back and forth with cutting the Backer rod to suit the cracks. An even easier method IMO is to use a pre-mix cement screed which you can buy as a dry-mix in a bag. Just add the recommended water and pour into the cracks directly. It does have admixtures that would prevent cracking between the old and new concrete. Trust this helps.
I think I have seen a mason on RUclips do something similar instead of sand. I think his mixture was 3 parts sand to 1 part portland cement and then he wetted it to the consistency of wet sand. He packed that in the crack. It would stiffen up but remain flexible over time.
No foam or processed chemical adhesives, some crushed recycled construction waste with some cement pored onto them and everything is fixed naturally. Even stones that are around your property, if they weren't naturally formed and they come from construction, or you can buy you any recycled construction waste of the appropriate size , have a bucket for any eventuality and you can always use them as filler or even cast some bricks if you need any.
You could use the expanding foam but pool noodles sell at the dollar store, 3, 4 noodles is going to cost way less
Actually using noodle is better because that caulking form is thinner on middle and wider on side which means thin part flex easier and wide parts sticks well to concrete. IF that caulking is same thickness whole area it can peel of easier.
Trouble with expandable foam is laying a perfect bead down to suit expansion rate. This almost never happens, which means shaving it down - p.i.t.a. The noodle is cheap and bendy: perfect for irregular lines.
Its funny how that really jagged crack was only an inch away from the relief cut placed in the concrete to prevent exactly that. I guess relief cuts should ideally be much deeper than what we typically do.
Yes they should. Ideally they should be 1/5 the slab thickness but most people would object to the aesthetics
Excellent video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I was sooo ready to jump down this video, since I used pool noodles and self-leveling caulk last summer. With totally disastrous results, despite having been quite careful with the prep. Pool noodles began to rise to the surface, caulk discolored (Silka pro).... anyway, I decided to watch your video to the very end to see what I might have done wrong. Count me humbled. Starting with the grill grinding cement edges to everything thereafter, I learned some valuable lessons. Now for the hard part ... wanna come to my house and film a video on how to remove the stuff and start over?? LOL. Keep up the great work.
Hahaha, I will add you to the list of home visit requests 😂. Best of luck 👍
Wait--you did "quite careful" prep the first time, but didn't prep the crumbly edges of the crack? Hope you're learning that prep usually RULES!
As a professional remodeler. Loved videos you have done leveling the cement slab and filing driveway joints. Just wonder why don’t use Quic-Krete cement or mortar which is gray and blend better than tan/brown sand when you sprinkle onto the wet urethane caulk. Again I LOVE your videos, very well spoken
That's what I would do
I have used the smaller foam rope for many cracks in concrete
I’m wondering if you could use fine concrete instead of sand to blend better
we used to buy that backer rod in 100ft rolls in about 4 or 5 sizes to pack around window and door frames before sheetrock went up. Some builders didn't like the expanding foam. They said it bowed the frames.
That's a very creative way to utilize a pool noodle!! Great video, thanks!
Joints with this obvious amount of movement require primer. On the cartridge it usually says something to the effect of “ no primer required for most substrates” But if you read the material literature it will tell you to prime joints like this. I installed sealant for a living and on a lot of projects we would use thousands of gallons of sealant. When you use these amounts a material rep will show up to make sure it is installed correctly and every time they would say to prime or the material guarantee is void. If you are going to take the time to clean the joint properly ,as the video shows, you might as well brush on the proper primer.
What type of primer is suitable for a concrete surface?
@@billbaillie3702 unfortunately that takes a little research. Every product may require a different primer so it is impossible for me to give you a good answer. But you should be able to find out pretty easily on the manufacturer website. Just be sure to locate the primer for the specific sealant and substrate ( in this case concrete) you choose.This is what I found for Vulkem 45 SSL :Where deemed necessary, use Vulkem® Primer #191 Low-VOC QD on porous substrates You can usually find this information on the material data sheet. Primer is also recommended because even though it is semi self leveling it is still supposed to be dry tooled( something very difficult for a homeowner to do correctly) Most people think that dry tooling the sealant is cosmetic but it is actually to gently force the sealant against the side of the joint to ensure good adhesion.
@@genecarden780 Thanks. I was thinking it would be something Vulkem compatible, I've never seen a primer product available where I usually purchase Vulkem. Are you spraying water or a specific liquid on the fresh Vulkem prior to tooling?
@@billbaillie3702 NO never use anything on the sealant to tool it.That is why it is called dry tooled. Any type of liquid will interfere with the bond. Anytime you see someone wet tooling it is a sure sign they don’t know what they are doing. That is the real advantage of SSL is the tool marks will flow out so you don’t have to be as good at tooling the sealant
Great advice for a sidewalk, Scott! I wonder if you could help with a driveway. My property has a ditch dug along the now asphalted street with about a 2 foot fairly level ridge at the street, and the driveway has a cement pipe underneath it, maybe a 10" ID, to accommodate the ditch on both sides. The pipe is OK on both sides, but the soil on one side of the driveway between the pipe and the street has sunk over time and the driveway concrete has cracked into pieces in a triangular shape from the yard side to a point about 5 feet in and is cracked all the way to the other side. That section is one of two ~10' angled sections from the street with 2nd one meeting the straight driveway.
It was like that when I bought the house about 3 years ago. I wonder if you have a video for something like that or could make one or give instructions on what to do and how. I would think that taking care of the triangular cracked pieces may do, and then fill the rest of that section with concrete to level the entire section. Another issue is that when the street was asphalted, they made it about 5" thick and covered most driveways quite a few inches in and angled down to meet the driveway. Not a simple project by any means, but maybe one that could be done without a contractor? Thoughts? Thanks
Sledge hammer the broken area, remove it and start over.
Rent a concrete saw add an expansion joint to attach the existing driveway, then build a Form 5" thick and call a cement truck..
Don't do it on a hot day or it will set up quicker then you can work it..
@@rtoguidver3651 Thank you! I have copied and saved your reply. I have two sledge hammers of different weights, but renting a jackhammer would probably be easier on my back and certainly much faster. Do you think mixing the cement myself and adding the pebbles to match what's there is a feasible idea? A cement churn can be rented, too. Thanks again!
@@100vg .. 5 inches thick is a lot of mixing even if you rent a mixer.. I mentioned the concrete saw so you can get a straight cut across your driveway and add an expansion joint.. The concrete saw will cut some of it into smaller pieces for less sledge hammer work too.. Good Luck ! ---How big is the area you need to repair.. Get the sq. footage and call for a price ?
@@rtoguidver3651 Thanks again! I'll take that route: rent a concrete saw, cut out in straight lines, bust it out and remove it with the aid of the saw, build up the soil there, tamp it down, and block it off. Then call for an ~5" depth at the width's and length's ~volume. I've seen concrete poured and worked to level, but have never done it, and this will be at a downward angle from the street. There are likely tons of videos for that, including an expansion joint. I have a wide flat-tip shovel and a tamper, and I may already have some of the other tools. You've been fantastic and I thank you again!
@@100vg .. You can pour a 4 inch driveway, but 5 inch adds 50 % more strength w/ just that extra 1 inch... Good Luck !
Awesome! Thanks for your video. I’ll fix our concrete walkway soon.
well done and thank you!
Spray Foam would be the preferable product for those large irregular gaps; cut down, then sealed with the SSL/SL sealant
The spray foam contaminates the substrate and compromises the bond of the SSL. And it doesn’t give the proper joint profile of thinner in the middle and thicker at the sides which is essential for proper sealant performance
@@genecarden780 nope; and yes Spray Foam actually does give proper support and fills the voids, which w/o would allow for further erosion. Spray foam or mud pumped in to fill those large voids is the only right way to do it. And a SSL will not interact with spray foam.
My 'fear' is by using so thin a top coat [less than 1/2" thick], it becomes more susceptible to cracking and breaking under traffic.
SSL has a fairly high shore hardness but yes in that size joint it should be 1/2 inch deep
The sealant has to have enough concrete side surface to bond to else it won’t stick to it as the two sides move from freeze thaw cycles.
Thanks for sharing, will try it in backyard next summer. Cheers 😉
2 videos in, already see the quality differences. Great Job.