How To Fix A WOBBLY Handrail
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Adding a Handrail Support To Fix A Wobbly Handrail
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I get many calls for loose handrails. Often times the least invasive and most cost effective solution is achieved by adding a handrail support in the middle span of the railing.
Support The Middle Span
The reason for this is that many times the middle section is unsupported and weight applied to that area of handrail causes extra stress on the end brackets which in turn causes them to loosen or even dislodge from the wall.
Adding a handrail support support stiffens the mid rail section and spreads out the weight evenly to all the handrail brackets.
If done correctly it should not negatively affect the aesthetics of the railing system.
Customization
The reason why many railings do not have a mid span bracket is because the wall is too far away and the brackets don't reach the wall. That was the case in the photo below.
Use A Spacer Block
To avoid having to purchase or make a longer, "custom" handrail bracket you can simple add a spacer block to the wall. The spacer block should extend far enough to make a standard railing bracket work.
In this situation I made a decorative bracket from left over, 1 x 3" oak strip, flooring in this house.
I glued three pieces of the flooring together and then ripped it down to the thickness that allowed the handrail bracket, shown in photo, to fit in the center of the handrail. [last photo]
For aesthetic reasons I added a "V" groove down the seam of a glue joint and routed a Roman Ogee detail on the outer edge.
Securing the Support Block
For this to work properly you will need to secure this support block to framing. Use 3-inch long screws or 16 penny finish nails and fasten the block into the stairway framing.
On interior walls you will need to find a wall stud to do this. This may mean that your mid span block is not 100 percent centered, if your alright with this positioning then go for it.
If being off-center bothers you then consider adding a second bracket to take one's eye off the center location. If the center location is your choice then add blocking in the wall cavity to support your bracket.
Adding Blocking
If no wall studs are available to securely fasten your support block or handrail bracket to, you may need to cut the wallboard open to add blocking.
Add framing blocking between two adjacent wall studs in order to get solid and secure fastening.
Conclusion
In most situations adding a handrail support will solve the problem, AT the same time you may need to reattach the other brackets, use longer screws, add blocking or a simply tighten everything up.
The end result was immediately noticeable and resulted in a handrail that was stiffer than the day it was installed.
Oh man, I watched your video, went out and bought the hardware, then installed it: what a difference! Really helped stabilize my 1978 hand rail. Ingenious tip, thanks for posting!
What’s the bracket called please ?
@@christianjones7930 Just a simple handrail bracket. Any hardware store will have one.
Excellent tip, pretty good skill in those hands for a 20 year old upstart.
Great tip. These types of problem solving repairs are tough for me because I get hung up on wanting things to look a certain way. In this instance, it wouldn’t be my preference visually to see that block/bracket, i would prefer some kind of hidden solution. But I don’t know that there is a good hidden solution and the way you added the block, especially with the routed detail makes this an attractive option. Good work!
Looks beautifully done, Rob.
Help!!!
What if the same wobble is on a railing that is between two newel posts and freestanding (catwalk) so there’s no way to add this extra reinforcement??
Newel posts are solid and balusters are also in place good.
Excellent idea I could not have worded it better myself
Slick idea and strong
That's a great tip, but I don't have a parallel joist to attach the bridge to, so am wondering how that works. I see you are local to me, so I will give you a call. Great videos and I am now a subscriber.
I want this information as well
Brilliant. Thanks!
Awesome tip. Would like to see what you'd recommend for a metal railing in an apartment setting.
If your metal banister system needs one, it will already have one. If it doesn't, and a gentle shake causes a wobble, put the bolts back in the holes. If the wobble is present with bolts in the holes, seek better health insurance and call the manager, but not before bulldozing through it and hurting your back. If you have children this may be a good way for them to learn the value of a buck, if not how the "world works."
@@albrtl Thanks Albert. Don't live in an apartment just do maintenance for an apartment complex. Ownership is super stingy and cheap so most of the time they try and make us do some really shoddy work. I actually like getting things done well and was wondering if there was a solution that would fix that even if it wasn't pretty that wouldn't go over the manager's budget.
@@isaacvillarreal2941 Well now my snarky assumption makes me an asshole and I apologize for that.
If the banister system doesn't flex like wood, securing the fasteners / replacement with appropriate hardware should resolve the problem. If it doesn't, perhaps the best bandaid is more negligent than simply not touching it.
An option stemming from my imagination: If it's attached to wooden newel posts, drill through-holes and swap the lags for a nut and bolt. Using an oversized hole on the opposing side of the plate, center of the fastening hole and lightly zap a button plug to cover it up. Does this make sense?
I'm assuming not fastened to concrete, but if it is, maybe drill slightly deeper holes and replace the lags. If it's resting on a knee-wall, obviously the lag option would be the same, however you may find problems with blown out sub-material. In this case, really long GRK's with a washer may do the trick.
If you're feeling smart and holding a beer, you may try PL3/8X adhesive into the existing holes and stuffing the fasteners back inside. Unfortunately I've seen this work remarkably well in non-similarly critical scenarios. Perhaps a bracket not unlike the one in this video combined with appropriate adhesive and a C-Clamp overnight. If anyone asks, you don't know me. Why the hell am I even typing this? Look what you guilted me to do by making me an asshole!
@@albrtl Thanks for your response. No worries and no need to feel bad I had quite the chuckle over it. Hadn't heard of the PL3/8X trick, though I'm not sure if it would work in stucco. These apartments are low income housing built in the late 70's and in shameful condition so really not much hope for a simple repair. Thanks for the suggestions though, I really appreciate the help.
This doesn't work for my railing going to the 3rd floor. There is no wall to attach it to. It is flexing heavily in the middle
Good tip....but I've never ran into this particular situation here in VA. Very often it's free standing newel posts themselves that have become wobbly and often times are damn near impossible to get secured correctly. Toe nailing long screws into the bottom of the post and hope to hit some framing beneath the floor.
Similar issues in MD with the new builds...its like they simply glued a the rails down. You see them a lot in the townhome models here.
Did you tighten the underpin that protrudes from bottom of newel post thru to basement ?
Great tip
Good tip . Thanks
good idea but what would you surgest for the top rail on the landing? the newel posts are firmly secured its just the middle bit that's a bit wobbly
Very Cool an thanks for the tip , Rob !!!!!!
Nice
nice!
Great video. But how can you tell if the handrail is wobbly? I believe we can tell if it is rock solid. But it is hard to define to what degree the handrail is wobbly. There are few spindles in my house are trying to escape the cap of the handrail. I am trying to see if this is because the loose handrail or just the spindles themselves.
I have a loose 3 inch round newel post fastened to the top of the first stair tread. i'm wondering what's hidden below and how to fasten the woggly post?
Awesome tip!
Btw, thumbnail says “wobby.” Just FYI!
Gonna fix that
Fixed Thanks!
I'll hide fastener holes behind the bracket on the plinth block. There would be no need for plinth block UNLESS that specific handrail profile were used. The issue is largely handrail dimensions and fastening methods, although I suspect that particular rail is just fine. The real beauty of the plinth block is the inspiration enabled down the road, when someone inevitably feels compelled to fix the next problem. If there's already a plinth block on a janky-ass handrail, there's a 100% chance you'll find inspired repair attempts.
It's crazy that more people don't die from questionable or broken guardrails. It's probably a good argument that a false sense of security creates more hospital visits than something visibly hazardous and concerning, like hundred year old handrails barely clinging to a newel by one of five nails, now sharing a pocket hole from an attempted drywall screw repair.
Agreed
The number of handrails with drywall screws holding them is astronomical and embarassing
So I have the same thing happening but the handrail goes from newell to wall without anything in between. How do I fix that?
send pic
I like it
how do you fix the wobble if its just an open flight of stairs?
Newel posts probably need adjustment or replacement
Rob, any tips for a wobbly handrail at the top of the steps (horizontal)? Thanks in advance.
Is the top Newel post wobbly? That's usually the culprit
My wooden rail is very loose at the bottom, my kids have been abusing the rail over the years. How would you re glue the spindles to the base and top of the bannister? Is there any special glue or just put ugly screws in. The house is like 150 years old.
you could probably shove a thin bit of wood in there to stop it moving.
zaf email me a pic robertrobillard at Comcast.net
Wobbly railing?
Tools: Hammer, big drill, long bit, 12" bolts, impact, T-30 driver bit, 24 pack beer, a few emotional support friends, and really angry wife.
And, since you just placed her on the "tool" list, she's beyond mad.
0:32 A little weeble woble.
Use that DeWilt to fix it 😂
kick ass, ditch the milwaukee, stay with makita cordless drills. That block u made looks like ironwood? maybe not. either way. f'in awesome.
Feel sorry for the poor bastard that has to paint that now lol
what kind of bracket did you use?
Standard handrail bracket
What’s the bracket called just a rail bracket ?
Handrail bracket
@@ConcordCarpenter But the arm is not long enough. Handrail brackets have the width 3"-5". The distance I need (from wall to the center of the handrail) is 8.5". Even if I use a 1.5" thick board, still short. It does not look nice if I overlay multiple boards. Maybe I need to built a wood/drywall box.
@@mfengoog have a custom bracket made
I liked wobby better