How to Anchor a Steel Handrail to Concrete Steps
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Large Diameter Tapcons or LDT's are the fastest, strongest fasteners I've found for anchoring to concrete. In this video I show steps for using them to install a powdercoated steel handrail to 20+ year old concrete steps. Compared to other anchoring methods like wedge anchors, drop in anchors, expanding anchors or epoxy this are the quickest, slickest option out there. Using LDT's is as quick as drill, drive... DONE!
LDT's in 3/8" x 5" size:www.amazon.com...
LDT's in 1/2" x 6" size:www.amazon.com...
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This makes it a whole lot clearer. The tools and the bolts are explained. Thanks
They're great fasteners that I still recommend and use even though this video is 9 YEARS old as of September, 2024.
I need to put a rail in for my husband and this video is just the ticket with the tapcons, thanks. He likes the idea much better than the anchors too. Again, thanks for making the video.
The handrail you see in the video is at the house of a client and good friend... it's still just as solid as the day I installed it. Hope you're able to find the LDT's in your area... there are a number of different brands but the idea is the same. Best, Matt
You made that look so simple. Thank you for your technique.
I noticed that tool box. Nice!! Looks as though the drill might fit in there too.
Glad you like it... there's a bit more about it here: ruclips.net/video/5Mo_6bD85_Y/видео.html Best, Matt
Thanks for adding this video. Saved me a lot of trouble. By the way, I have used a number of your tips. I really like that little rare earth magnet you used in surgical removal of sheetrock. Lots of uses.
Thanks for your comment Russ... glad to know you're finding some tips from Next Level Carpentry videos helpful... that's the whole purpose of the Channel so I really appreciate you letting me know! Best, Matt
Tried in vain to find Red Head 3/8" black powder coated LDT anchors. They have bronze, but I would like to use them with wrought Iron. Could you put up a shot of the label on the box? Thanks
Hey Russ hope I didn't mislead you (and other viewers) by implying that LDT anchors come with powder coated finish. The ones I used are unique in that their factory finish is a texture similar to sandblasting that allows powdercoating to stick to it better than a 'shiny' galvanized finish. I got them from the powder coating outfit that did the railing with his recommendation that they hold the finish well. It's been a few years since I installed that railing so I don't have the box around but you should be able to find them around. Come to think of it you may have to go through a Fastenal dealer or website to get these guys because they're geared a bit more towards pro fabricators etc. Hope that helps? Best, Matt
Not a problem Matt. Not going to go through one of the pro places for a few screws. I could just put some Rustoleum on them. That should work for a while. Then, touch up as needed. Why don't they make them in black though? Hmmmm.
Maybe someday Next Level Carpentry will have enough clout in the world of RUclips that manufacturers will take our dialog as 'market research' and start producing them in black, right? With their tough 'paint-loc' galvanized finish I doubt you'll have any problems with Rustoleum... even the powdercoating chipped a little during install but it's no problem... Take care! Best, Matt
Another nice job. Those steps were beautiful. I know the handrail is necessary but they look so nice without rhem.
Jameson,
The woman who lives in the house had those steps made about 30 years ago and was reluctant to add the railing but was concerned about safety of some of her older friends who come to visit. They really do look nice, plus, although it doesn't show in the video, each step is lit by strip lights (robertssteplite.com/residential-opulance/step/) concealed in the concrete of each riser so they're a remarkable sight when lit at night. Gotta do what ya gotta do, right?
Best,
Matt
Well done. Simple and clear instructions
... and still holding firm 7 years after the fact...😎
Thanks, getting ready for this project.
Great job! I would have liked seeing you create the template for the wrought iron railing.
Bobcat,
Thanks... I was pleased with the way the railing came out and how those LDT's work as well!
The template was a bit tricky but mostly pretty straightforward layout/geometry work... it would probably be a good topic for a tutorial video in its own right. Someday, maybe?
@@NextLevelCarpentry first time viewing this, just wondering, has that day come yet?
@@Handlebarrz Sorry... and not in the cards anymore either😯 Best I have to offer is this, which, surprisingly, is pretty much the same process used: ruclips.net/video/Ny5S3K-kbQE/видео.html Best, Matt
Thank You for sharing this info. with us. Big help ....👍👍
Looks like a nice setup compared to those old lead anchors etc. Where can you buy these I'm looking to install a handrail this week to please the insurance company.
Scooter & Peanut,
You should be able to find LDT type anchors at any worthwhile local hardware store or big box store. There seems to be an increasing assortment of sizes and types to choose from so you should be able to find a size that's just right for your project. Hope you have a hammer drill for drilling those holes as they're pretty tough to do with a regular drill. Best, Matt
BTW if you have any trouble with screws that won't grab in concrete check out the Master Carpenter Hack: How to Fasten Wood to Concrete with Regular Construction Screws video here on Next Level Carpentry for an instant fix for that problem.
Insurance companies....aka modern crime ring
He went pretty fast over how he got the railing made. Would love to see how that is done. All I got was something about a plywood stencil.
Building a railing is a whole other topic, far beyond the scope of this video... sorry. 😏
Thank you
Drill, drive, sweet.
I'm not seeing it asked, but what about lateral load on it? How much could this theoretically hold if someone were to fall against it while walking?
I've used these tapcon bits pretty regularly but not for handrails. Just curious. Thanks!
These are heavy duty 'tapcons' Scott (not run of the mill 1/4" hex heads) and are equal to or better than any other anchor type for railing installed on poured concrete IMHO. Sure, you could push hard enough to pull it loose but would damage the rail in the process. Any accidental fall isn't going to result in failure... this rail is still standing stout and strong 6 years after the fact. A cast-in-place rail connection is strongest but those aren't indestructible either... especially when winter salt rusts the posts. You're welcome for sure! Best, Matt
Yeah but what if a tornader hits and the rear end of a Chevy Silverado mangles the rail shearing the LDTs off? Plus what if Grand Pappy Reginald and Grumma Edna were in the truck at the time?
This is five years later but you just saved me so much money! I was about to buy way too much! I have those same tools already! And you can remove the threaded anchors if need be! Great video. You’ve helped my business sir! Hills Mobile Welding LLC
Glad to hear it! It's a great way for attaching steel to concrete, masonry, etc. There's some installations where cast in place anchors are the only way to go but this is always my first consideration. Good luck to you as you build your welding business after leaving the military... gotta go with the direction you feel lead, not where you feel pushed or obligated! Best, Matt
Nice work.
Thanks for sayin' Pace Metal. I drive by this railing installation about once a month and feel totally confident of the durability of the railing even years after installing it...those LDT's are really something! Best, Matt
Could you do a video on tightening a wobbly hand rail that's seated in a sandstone step?
Anita, Unfortunately the instance you mention is much too specific to be practical as a topic for a video. Incidentally it's exactly the sort of thing I get calls for in my 'real job' as a carpenter/contractor so I hope you're able to find a competent person in your area who'll be able to assess your railing and devise an effective solution. My guess is that it will involve epoxy...
Hello there 👋 !! I have a question maybe you may be able to help me with . My husband installed railings maybe 10 years ago on our steps somewhat like this . Our steps are sandstone concrete . The railings have come loose on the bottom steps and the bolts won't tighten up. Do you have an idea how we can fix this ? Not sure what to do . Thank you 😊.
The method shown in this video should absolutely work to tighten those handrail bolts (assuming they're not 'wedge' or 'drop in' type anchors):
ruclips.net/video/CSCR3dwaDTo/видео.html
I also encourage you to get new fasteners of the same type and length since threads on the 10-year old ones are probably no longer viable.
You're quite welcome 😉😎
@@NextLevelCarpentry 👍 Okay. We'll try that . Thank you so much for responding back to me 😊.
While quicker to do, i feel like these type of bolts will not hold as strongly as bolts with wedge anchors, how do they hold up after time?
Any conditions that cause an LDT anchor to deteriorate will also compromised wedge anchors. The good news is that this railing is still holding strong 10 years after the fact so I have no lack of confidence in the performance of the anchors.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks, good to know!
No special drill needed for fasteners? So you can use a standard drill?
You will want a hammer drill but it can have a regular chuck as an SDS type bit and chuck aren't necessary.
Would there be any adjustments to length of Tapcon when securing railing into 3" block?
Can't say Tom but I'd definitely question the integrity of 3" block. Not sure the exact conditions you're working with but it might take more than anchor bolts/screws to secure a railing to it...
How close to the edge of precast concrete can you drill the 3/8" tapcons? Also, noticed on the tapcon box, they recommend 3/8 drill for 3/8 tapcon...any concerns with that?
Because LDT's have far less 'expansion force' than wedge anchors they can be placed closer to 'fragile' edge of precast and other concrete but every application is a little different and, as a rule, farther is better. One thing to consider is that even if concrete doesn't break while drilling and driving the anchors it could still break from force against the railing itself after installation, another reason 'farther is better' IMHO
Part of the beauty of these fastners is that they DO use standard bit sizes like 3/8" for 3/8" instead of a smaller proprietary size like 11/32" or something.
Good news is that, if you happen to strip out a hole when driving an LDT in weak concrete or some other reason,
you can use this method to get them to grab with unbelievable strength:
ruclips.net/video/CSCR3dwaDTo/видео.html
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks for that tip Matt! I'll keep that in mind for all stripped holes. I see some online info say 1-3/4" should be a "safe" distance from the edge for thi s 3" x 3/8" tapcon....maybe I'll try 2" to be safe.
@@jeffmccully7726 Guess it depends on the actual strength of the concrete and stress applied to the anchor... 🤞🤞😎
Where do you order the hand rails?
Actually I designed fabricated and welded the railing in this video myself but took it to a commercial fabricator for Powder Coating. The best custom railings are made Fabricators that specialize in them and you should be able to find someone in your area that qualifies... Good luck.
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thanks for responding sir!! This video was extremely helpful. Didn't know where to start!
@@specialk2720 you're sure welcome. There are some generic manufactured railing systems available but none of those will provide you the quality and unique look of a custom designed handrail so hopefully you can find someone local to make one for you at a reasonable cost.
Where did you get the iron railing?
gyver,
For this particular project I made a full-size template out of thin plywood and brought it to a local fabricator who welded up the railing and powder coated it to the desired color. Sometimes I do my own fabrication/welding but this project was straight forward enough where I could sub it out...
PS Where's the 'Mc' to go with your 'gyver'? :-)
Next Level Carpentry thanks for the info I just bought a home and the entrance handrail needs help thinking of doing the project myself just looking around so I can buy the handrail. And yes mcgyver it should have been lol
gyver,
As you likely know planning and building a handrail takes similar geometry as building the stairs themselves and can be a bit tricky to get right. Not sure of you skill level or determination but suggest asking around for a railing fabrication company in your area. You might find that you can get a professionally planned, designed, fabricated and installed railing for not much more than the cost of materials you'd buy yourself... it's a volume thing, right? You'd miss out on the satisfaction of doing it yourself but weigh that against the potential frustration and disappointment you might experience otherwise...
Best,
Matt
Next Level Carpentry I might get it installed if it’s not crazy expensive only need like a 12 foot stair piece probably two 6’ pieces. Love the anchoring flange connected to the stair railing makes it a bit easier...decisions decisions lol
You should visit woodprix website if you would like to make it by yourself I think.
Just read your discription above. So there Is a diferance. Learn't something.
There's a major difference James... if you find occasion to use these I'd be surprised to learn that you didn't really like them too. Best, Matt
Are we sure the railing had to go in the middle of the stairs 😅
Someone obviously went for the cheapest option.
You should consider building skate parks ++
Thanks, clear and concise....meeting w/ a builder tomorrow for something similar.
Bro you just watched this video do it yourself lmfao.
Update 10 months later after **MY** poles was installed. First he used 2" rails, with a fancy design. He said the price is so high because of the curve your wife wants. They are solid and I've fell against them several times. He also said he guaranteed my rails for the rest of my life, to NEVER come out. Amazing work he done. Expensive, yes! thanks!
I know this video is 7 years old, but would these bolts work when installing a rail into brick? If so any other tips tying into brick?
Although the video is old the information is still current.
In fact I used four of these anchors just the other day to bolt a park bench to concrete because they are still my go-to fastener for that sort of attachment.
Compared to concrete the density and type of bricks varies very widely so there is no pat answer as to whether this type of anchor will work or not. That is to say it all depends on the brick and the location of the hole in relation to the outline of each individual brick.
When in doubt I recommend hiring a reputable and experienced contractor to do the work because a brick ruined by drilling holes for anchors that don't work are unsightly anvery costly to replace.
Best, Matt
A SDS drill would make very light work of drilling concrete .
Nicholas,
An SDS is the best for this sort of drilling but the video shows it can be done with lesser drills for those that don't do enough of this sort of thing to justify cost of an SDS machine...
Thanks for adding some Next Level Carpentry videos to your 'Liked Videos Playlist' and taking the time to comment!
Yup, I kept an eagle eye on FB marketplace and eventually a Bosch Bulldog opened up for $60 and I immediately drove over to buy it. Now all my concrete projects are super easy
Great innovation these screws. Just used them for the first time. Tapcon has really changed masonry fasteners industry-wide. A big improvement over the old school methods you mention. Thanks for keeping everyone current!
The LDT's have been around awhile so they're not necessarily 'keeping everyone current' but they're definitely a huge improvement so I like to make people aware because there's many like you who just haven't been exposed to stuff like this. I only learned about them from a guy I used to work with and was pretty late to the game myself😏😎 Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I have to use the tapcons tommorow installing a railing just like the one u did ..thanks for the advice 👍👍
@@jkjgf829 You're sure welcome... and I assume you mean LDT's (Large Diameter Tapcon) and not regular 1/4" diameter size? I think you'll love how solid these fasteners are...
@@NextLevelCarpentry yes I am using the LDTs , I'm so used to using the old school way, which is the metal shields but, my friend recommended the Large Tapcons , I have to install the exact same thing u did tommorow but in the color white, and a few other things, Install the plastic lattice around the deck, and do some interior painting, I appreciate your feedback and advice 👍...
@@jkjgf829 they're a real game changer, that's for sure. I heard about them from a guy I used to work with and I've never gone back to the old way since...
Thank you for the video! Will these LTD'S work/hold as well in blue stone? They are about 7" thick and 8" deep milled slabs with natural face fronts. I would need to install the railing on one side of the stairs. 3 steps total so 2 mounting locations. The wedge anchors make me nervous in this type of application for fear of splitting the blue stone due to the proximity of the edge. If these LTD'S are cutting their own threads I would feel much better that they wouldn't split the stone. I am also in North East Pa. with 4 seasons to consider. Thank you for your time. First time viewer, great content. Aaron
I don't know for sure but would guess LD T's are your best option for mechanically fastening to those Stone steps. If you had a spare chunk of the stone you could try it but if you're really nervous your best option would be to use some sort of epoxy anchor where there would be no expansion at all. Good luck... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you so much for the info and quick reply. I really appreciate it. I'll look into the epoxy anchors and weigh the options.
@@asc95 im curious on what you ended picking for your bluestone steps. I will be doing mine this week and I'm running into the same problem and I also live in the northeast (Connecticut) it would really help to know what kind of bolts or anchors you used or if your steps have crack at any point
@@eduardomelendez1915 After further investigation they weren't blue stone after all. They were cast concrete and very convincing in the pics. I did however feel that epoxy in anchors would've been my best and safest option. I'd rather have the receiving threads permanent in the stone and have the ability for removal of the fastening bolt at a later date if necessary. At least you could fill the holes if the railing is no longer desired/needed or wanted to be changed for any reason. Hope that helps a little
@@eduardomelendez1915 i used these in bluestone just last week! they were VERY finicky as the bluestone dulled the thread cutting tip of the bolts very quickly. The holes had to be slightly oversize for the anchors to work. Using a brand new drill bit helped a little too. It took my a while, but i finally got it.
The ones I just installed were in 70 year old concrete. Had lots of big rocks in the concrete.
Old concrete full of big rocks can make the drilling rather difficult but the anchors should be bomb proof Once Driven into that old stuff!
Love this enlightenment. I must have a hundred pounds of anchors and lags for the big jobs; and those big bits for the holes--gonna miss that. Looks like the ldtsk are hardened and tough to break, unlike the smaller lags which have a nasty habit of sheering while impact driving. Prayers for the contractor who breaks off a lag where the hole absolutely needs to be.
These are definitely tough to beat Francis... hope you get a chance to try 'em. It's a welcome stress reliever knowing you have more than one do-or-die chance at placing a solid anchor with these, unlike other methods we've all had fail during a critical placement on a complicated installation. Needs to be a whole prayer chain for those dealing with that sort of failure! Best, Matt
It seems to me the bolts would work their way lose, I'm having this done on three steps and he said he was not using bolts and it would be MORE sturdy. I am crippled ! Thanks for sharing, great video!
There's NO way these LDT's will work their way loose in this installation.. it's been in place for 3 1/2 years with no sign of failure. Not sure what method 'your' guy is using but makes me wonder... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry To be honest I don't know either. A 950 est to go down three steps, he said he won't use bolts or attach it to the house. Free standing. He has not done the job yet and I am curious myself on how he will install the railing. 950 dollars sounds high to me but he said most iron workers use him to contract their work out. I assume he will drill a whole and install concrete but I could be all wrong too. This town getting things fix is costly. I'm on fix income but need the railing installed. I only fell twice and one fall broke my wrist, both bones and several operation. Good video though and THANKS for sharing !
@@stevecrazy9491 Well I guess an expensive railing is cheaper than a broken bones no matter how you look at it. Hope you can get referrals for the guy or pictures of previous projects before you shell out the $950? Best, Matt
He is on face book, montyswelding inc. he drills in the concrete, I've seen this done but they should use solid metal poles, now hollow. He comes highly recommended by other people. Yes, any kind of railing is better than broken bones, lol, I have an over the phone quote for 500 dollars but he said more than likely that was just two rails bolted down. Just curious where are you located? facebook.com/Montyswelding/
@@stevecrazy9491 I'm a long way from everywhere in a place where, if I stand outside, the whole world can see me... but no one is looking!😀😎 I think 'solid metal poles' are rare because it mainly depends on diameter. 'Core drilling' into concrete to set poles is definitely a solid installation where ever conditions and design permit and I'd be comfortable with it when used properly. The biggest drawback I see is in areas where salt is used to melt ice. I've seen many instances where salt reacts with imbedded steel which causes it to rust and expand destroying both railing and concrete which would be my biggest concern. If your guy has a good reputation and solid referrals it would indicate he's dealt with these issues. Best, Matt
A Carpenter doing fabrication. You know what metal guys call bad tolerances? Carpentry specs. Lol. Ive done military specs for 30 years now doing Carpentry. Makes me laugh how Carpenters are about it. No offense
this guy is smart, genuine advances in bolt extractor. compare to other basic handyman that I ever seen my life. fyi guys, use the bolt like in this video. becausue its hold the value.
Nice work.. Hope you had some hearing protection.. Again, good quality work..
Great video. Any tips on making sure the bit doesn’t jump when you start to drill? About to do this on bluestone treads.
One way is to start the holes with a smaller bit... like 3/16" or so to help guide the larger one needed for the screws. Another method is to drill a hole the size of the masonry bit you're using through a piece of 3/4" plywood 6"x 12" using a regular drillbit. Place the plywood hole over the location of the LDT fastener, stand on the plywood to keep it in place and then, using the hole as a guide, start drilling your bluestone tread. The guide hole will keep the bit from dancing around as you start the hole... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks for the tips! Appreciate the quick reply.
@@NextLevelCarpentry I did the hole in a board and it worked perfectly. Job turned out great, thanks so much!
I appreciate that you took the time to follow up and let me know. Glad it worked out well for you! Best, Matt
im a painter and my client asked me to install a handrail for their exterior staircase. I can do it!!!
what do you tink is best railing these days for cement oval shaped slab?
I use those for shelf lugs while attaching big steel to concrete. Also the greatest while using chemical anchors just to mount steel on a wall. If the hole is to big put a washer on it. Glue a few in let it set then pull the LDTs out.
Would this screw work on a heavy fence to bolt it down? It keeps coming unbolted with the windy weather. Thanks for your reply.
LDT's are your best option for a bolt-on installation IMHO but some installations require posts that are set into concrete to achieve strength sufficient to resist heavy wind.
If existing screws have 'stripped out' in concrete you might want to consider this method for keeping the existing fasteners from 'coming unbolted':
ruclips.net/video/CSCR3dwaDTo/видео.html
FWIW I use the wire technique shown in the video any time I have to deal with concrete fasteners that 'strip out'...
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you!
I used the sleeve bolt. Evidently, I drilled the hole too large and it did not tighten correftly. . Bought a bigger bolt and still not right. Do I go and buy the next size up again or is there a better way to make this work? Thanks for any help.
Can't tell for sure without seeing actual site conditions but, from the sound of it, I'd consider filling the hole with PC-7 epoxy and re-drilling it the correct size for an extra long LDT type anchor like shown in this video.
These are the things I'm referring to but use your own judgment to decide if this is a good idea for your situation:
www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOHJJ0/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d&tag=aiponsite-20&linkCode=ic6&ascsubtag=amzn1.ideas.29WVINIJF4EUJ
www.amazon.com/dp/B002WGJRCC/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d
Your story is exactly why I switched to LDT's and never looked back.
Good luck Brian!
Best,
Matt
Great video. I did know of these before now and will use them in my stairs project.
what does LDT stand for?
Large Diameter Tapcon.
Here were I live in the U.S. this railing would be gone overnight by the scrap metal collectors as fast you installed it.
Sadly, a nice railing like this one would be an attractive target for vandals in many places too... evidence of society gone off the rails IMHO.
Looks so easy but when I tried to drilling into concrete the drill holes not straight. How much I tried to straight drill into concrete.
If you're using a hammer drill and have trouble it probably has to do with a drillbit that's not sharp. Otherwise the only thing that makes holes wander off is if you hit rebar... that will cause problems even in the best of situations...
“SWEET”! Yes.
Thanks for helping me out 👍🏼
Good morning! Great video thank you very much. Is the reason for the 5/16 drill bit for a 3/8 wedge anchor because when you drill the 3/8 hole the wedge anchor is still too tight to fit in the hole? This has been my experience with wedge anchors usually when the matching size drill bit with anchor hole is drilled the anchor is still too big to fit in the hole
You might want to re-watch the video because the whole purpose is to show use of the large diameter tapcons which are a different installation process than wedge anchors. It's more like Drilling and tapping a hole into steel for a machine bolt than it is installing any sort of insert anchor. The smaller drill bit size is the pilot hole and the LDT actually cuts threads into concrete much like a tap would cut threads into Steel.
Hope that helps because these really are incredibly strong trouble free anchors...
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry oh I see thank you for the clarification
Thanks ! Would it be advisable to use a torque wrench to do the final tightening ? Or use the clutch on the driver/drill. I will be using Topcon 1/4 X 2-1/4 to anchor two base plates for a small 4 ft. handrail. Two concrete steps up into a house. Bob
If you're unfamiliar with using those tapcons you might consider doing a practice run. You could drill a hole that will get covered by the baseplate to get a feel for how they drive and how much to tighten them to hold the baseplate down without snapping the tapcon. If it snaps off you can just grind it off and still place others to hold those baseplates. Generally I use an impact driver and tighten until they feel snug without issues and feel they're not too fussy to use. And keep this trick in mind in case, rather than a screw breaking off, the hole is too big and the screw strips out or won't grab: ruclips.net/video/CSCR3dwaDTo/видео.html
Good luck! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks ! Very Helpful. The job is done, after a "rocky" start. Bob
@@bobclarie Cool... glad to hear it... and congratulations!
I agree, that is the small downside of using these anchors. I recently started using these and was surprised they hold more than wedge anchors.
@@donsmith9081 My main heartburn using these is fear of hitting imbedded rebar in the exact location I drill for one of these anchors... gonna be a bad day anytime THAT happens, right?!
Best, Matt
tapcon box for 3/8 x3 inch says use 3/8 drill bit?
I would feel comfortable following instructions on the box the Fasteners you are going to use came in. If you have any doubts drill a test hole somewhere unseen and give it a try... LDTs are amazing fasteners and if used properly I think you will be more than impressed with the results... Best, Matt
How is it with people who are heavy and use the railing a lot
These anchors are really strong but the design of the railing itself might need to be more robust for extreme use. I think a more commercial type railing with larger base plates would be most reliable if heavy use by heavy people is expected. I wouldn't hesitate to use this type of anchor though, assuming the baseplates are big enough to handle the stress...
What kind of screws or bolts
The type of fasteners used in the video are clearly described and shown in the video itself but you can't find a link in the video description to a source for those amazing bolts
what is the name of this handrail?
Since I did the custom design and build for this project it doesn't have a name...
GNa
Excellent job!
Is it possible to buy LDT's is smaller quantities, like 10 or 12 ?
I find them for sale individually at local brick and mortar stores James... hope you can too? Hate to buy a $50~$100 box of these babies just to get 6 for the job at hand! Good luck! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks Matt. I'll check my local Menards and Lowes. Also, Were the LDTs you used in the video really 5-6" long? They look more like 3-4".
I don't know if it was the same brand but I've used those type fasteners before. The ones I used needed a special bit that was actually tapered and the bolts were tapered as well. I was pretty impressed with them. I used them to secure a large angle bracket to the bottom of a handrail that someone kept driving into in their garage. Word to the wise (Matt you already know this but others may not), always drill deeper into concrete than your fastener will actually reach. This gives the dust that you will never be able to blow out enough room that it's not in the way (concrete dust doesn't compress). I made that mistake once when using these and I was shocked when I sheared off the bolt head with a 6 inch boxed end wrench with no cheater bar and only one hand.
And yes double reaming the hole out as you showed is a solid practice, but on the tapered ones I was using the auger mechanics of the drill bit were different, the dust could never be fully extracted because as the bit was retracted the space around it widened and the dust fell back down. I suppose compressed air would do the trick, but considering the mess it would make and the practicality of just drilling a little deeper that's what I chose to do.
Thanks for adding your experience and covering the details on this one Austin. I've not seen the tapered masonry bits you mention but it makes total sense that they'd be less effective at removing that 'non compressible' dust. A 'turkey baster' type bulb on a tube is good for 'puffing' that bit of dust out of the hole but it's messy as you consider. Less messy than trying to remove a snapped off bolt but still better to avoid both. The extra depth is always important because I think extra powder crumbles out as the fastener cuts its own treads and so deposits dust in the bottom of even a clean hole. This sort of 'real world' interaction really adds value to the video so I appreciate it! Best, Matt
I'll remember the turkey baster tip! I bet if I used it in conjunction with my cordless vac it wouldn't make any mess. (Which would also be the only way to meet the latest OSHA guideline... Not that that's my primary concern). As far as removing a sheared off fastener from concrete I'd love to see how you do that! In my case I just left it, I was using way more bolts than necessary anyway. But if you had sheared a bolt on your handrail you would have been in trouble.
Austin Patrick
Thanks for the great questions and sharing your experience. I too have found that double reaming the holes have proven to be much more efficient. Regardless, I always have a compressor on site and blow out the holes to get rid of excess dust. However I use this method mostly on horizontal drilling applications and it works great.
I was working on a project one day when we were double reaming holes to secure a ledger board against a wall, and the GC wanted adhesive applied to the hole before the tapcons were installed, and even after we had used compressed air to blow out the holes, I was skeptical of how well an adhesive would work given how fine concrete dust could be, not allowing a proper bond.
Have you ever used, or heard of using adhesives in unison with fasteners when it comes to concrete and/or what is your take on it?
I’m relatively green and just wanting to pick the brains of those people who have more experience than I do
Where does one get the railing you installed?
The railing in the video was made by yours truly, just one of many diverse design/build projects I do at my 'day job' as a self-employed carpenter/contractor. Steel fabricating companies who specialize in this sort of project exist in most areas. Best, Matt
Thanks! Hope our 94 yr old cement porch in Oregon will accept such a railing. Yours was the first I saw going down the middle; that’ll make sense for our wide steps. Is Stainless Steel an ok material? Thanks again! Flo
@@flodelaney3952 Stainless steel is actually the BEST material for railings as long as cost isn't a concern and the silver finish is desirable... Good luck! Best, Matt
thanks for the video. do you have any suggestions for concrete of very poor strength? I live in Brasil, and these bolts would just fracture the concrete. here we use plastic anchors for just about everything. Is there a better way?
Richard, these anchors don't really create much expansion force so I'd be surprised if it fractured something of 'poor strength' In weak concrete might they might 'strip out' as they would in soft sandstone but you'd have to try a test run to find out. A bigger diameter fastener is more likely to 'grab' than smaller diameter ones. If that won't work I'd look into some sort of epoxy anchor system since it can provide 'grip' without expansion and there's no real twisting force applied. It's not going to be 'drill, drive, DONE' like these LDT's but you should be able to get a solid anchor placed...
Best,
Matt
I think epoxy is the best solution.. I have tried typical concrete screws and they just don´t ever grab and the concrete turns to powder... I believe they use standard portland cement, but they use too much sand and too much water when they mix concrete. thanks for your quick response, great video library.
Richard, Glad you like the videos.
I'm not dialed in on epoxy type concrete anchors these days but I'm sure a little research will give you the solution you need. Hilti stuff is probably a good place to start...
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry was going to recommend Hilti. In the North I used it to anchor threaded rod so a nut could be threaded on after. It was the preferred method to keep water from getting into the hole, freezing, and causing cracking.
@@davidossinger8183 Straight LDT anchors are very effective and much quicker than setting anchors in epoxy but if epoxy is the only way for a durable, long lasting installation then it's the only way to go. Thanks for commenting here... Best, Matt
If you had a pro hammer drill you could drill those holes as fast as shown in the video
Specifically an SDS Rotary Hammer. The one at Harbor Freight is well reviewed and about a third the price of major brands. Goes through concrete like a hot knife. I'm buying one when I finish my basement. The spade bit also makes short work of removing tile. It also is great for busting out brick, block, concrete, and removing slag from welds.
Pro's already know how to do this sort of installation and have no doubt invested in an SDS unit Johnny. Part of the message in this video is that it's possible to do an installation like this with a regular hammer drill and bits for those who don't install railings or do construction for a living. Me? Yeah, I should have purchased an SDS drill years ago but, truth be told, I'd rather not get a reputation for being really good at installations that require a bunch of drilling in concrete because I'd much rather be making sawdust in the shop 😁😎. Best, Matt
Fair enough, making sawdust is more fun
You know what I mean then Johnny? Like I don't EVER tell anyone how fast I can dig a hole or how well I can finish concrete... just don't want that kind of reputation, right?! Best, Matt
Hi, u recommended the ldt for handing my heavy door. Only issue is that i need then for butt hinges so they need to be flat heads. Any flat head screw solutions?
Chacon,
OK, I got the picture. At about 4:20 in the other video you first commented on:
ruclips.net/video/CSCR3dwaDTo/видео.html&lc=z22zdh0ixwqkxlsru04t1aokgthnyxf4mlmi0jhp2bembk0h00410
I say 'sometimes only a true-blue Tapcon will do' and your situation is one of those times. 3/16" countersunk head Tapcons are VERY tough screws and should work well for you if you use the right bit and the bricks you're fastening to are tough. You may need to increase the size of the countersink hole in those butt hinges so that the Tapcon screw heads sit flush with the hinge leaf so they don't bind against each other when the hinge is closed. Use longer Tapcons rather than shorter ones. If any of the Tapcons strip out during the process and you can't get longer ones to work then using the wire trick from the other video will make them grab.
Let us know how you get along on the project?
Best,
Matt
Next Level Carpentry 3/16 or 1/4? I assume the thicker the better, or will either be fine? My hinges are 4 1/2 so the coutersinks fit #12 size screw heads.
Chacon,
Your assumption is correct: thicker is usually better for an application where you're kind of approaching hinge/fastener strength limitations. If you can get the 1/4" size to 'fit' in the hinge leaves by all means use 'em! But for realistic perspective they only need to be as strong as regular screws since that's what you'd be using if attaching your hinges to a typical wooden jamb, right? You might find that the countersink angle is different on the hinge leaves than the heads of the Tapcons, another reason to tweak them for a good fit of the screw heads. I'd recommend drilling a test hole or two in the brick where they'd be hidden by the hinge leaf but not encroach on any of your finished screw placement holes just to make sure your drillbit/screw combination is going to work. Otherwise if you end up with a broken screw in one of the locations you NEED you'll be in a pickle.
Best,
Matt
Next Level Carpentry thank you much for taking tge time. I took yiur advice, did a test and all works wonderfully. Yur a great resource! Appreciate it!
You're welcome, Chacon... spread the word around and share Next Level Carpentry with anyone who you think would appreciate it?
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks for the video. What type of fasteners would you use to secure steel columns to a concrete patio for a pergola?
I wouldn't hesitate to use these Tim, if the patio is already in place. You might go with some sort of anchor bolt cast in place if you've yet to pour the slab. The beauty of these is that you can put them EXACTLY where you need them after the face as opposed to placing them during a pour. These are 1/2" diameter and 6" long which will have remarkable holding power! www.amazon.com/dp/B002WGJRCM/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d&tag=aiponsite-20&linkCode=ic6&ascsubtag=amzn1.ideas.29WVINIJF4EUJ Just the other day I saw them 5/8" dia x 6" long if you need to get crazy holding power. They also come smaller which is probably adequate for pergola post bases.
www.amazon.com/dp/B002WGJRC2/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d&tag=aiponsite-20&linkCode=ic6&ascsubtag=amzn1.ideas.29WVINIJF4EUJ
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thank you!! Yes. Its an existing patio surrounding a pool, and its covered with stone that is probably about an inch thick. The slab itself is 4". It's at the top of a small mountain and gets hit with very strong winds. Thanks again!
@@timbarry5080 It might be tricky drilling through the stone veneer 'tile' so approach that with caution. Some of that stuff can be deceivingly tough/fragile,brittle. Depending on how brittle that stone is and how close to edges the holes/bolts layout you might have to over-drill the first inch to keep pressure from driving the anchors from cracking the stone... depends on an infinite number of factors so 'experiment' a bit to prevent oops-es in obvious places. Your choice of bracket/hardware will be important too because that's where wind focuses 'leverage' and undersized brackets can fail and poor design can overstress even the best anchors. You'll do fine... I just wanted to add a few peripheral thoughts for you to ponder. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thank you. I appreciate that. I was wondering about that stone. I was thinking of cutting out the stone in the footprint of each column. The columns will be wrapped in wood so ill be able to cover any cut lines. Thanks again!
@@timbarry5080 cutting out the stone veneer might be a good plan but would depend on a lot of factors which you would need to evaluate beforehand. You wouldn't want the post bases to be sitting below the surface where collecting water might cause them to rust more quickly but you could also shim The Columns up with steel shims and then use non shrink Poured underneath the plate afterward...
Samba combination of Fasteners and methods will achieve the strength you looking for so it's good to think these things through beforehand as you're doing...
That music makes it sound like that guy's ship came home with those tapcon bolts. Like he had lost everything, was in legal trouble, had terminal cancer, and then he invented the tapcon bolt and it paid all his bills and lawyers and a cancer cure, and it was the happiest story ever.
hypoeddy, and here you thought it was just a video about anchoring a railing to concrete steps! Little did you know it was an audible saga of healing and restoration :-)
I watched it again, not quite as melodramatic as I remembered. I don't miss doing manual labor, but I may have to go back to painting for a while to make ends meet - google took down my computer business listing because I don't have a business sign up at the corporate offices where I rent. It's amazing how fast a good standing business can be shut down overnight over total bs. This must be an example of the widening socio-economic gap and success is more and more inaccessible for someone not born into it. But I digress. Thanks for the good video. Maybe you could polish them up somore more, and act like a more popular youtube host, with a script, etc. and make some money from more views.
hypoeddy,
Funny thing, our reaction to music... depends so much on circumstances, right?
This particular video is one of my first ventures into becoming 'a more popular RUclips host' so I'd be curious what you think of some of my more recent ones as I've tried desperately to 'polish them up' since the earlier ones... here's an example:
ruclips.net/video/RE_BKm4T5Po/видео.html
if nothing else, the music has changed :-)
Best,
Matt
Are the fasteners called wedge anchors?
Absolutely NOT James... these LDT's (Large Diameter Tapcons) are infinitely better in almost every respect. Watch the video closely to see why I think so. Best, Matt
what I really want to see is how you poured those steps!!! was it a monolithic pour, or walls first...? and why did you decide against a bullnose in favor of the ledge on each step?
Andrew,
I appreciate your insightful comment/question... it gives me the idea you know whereof what you speak :-)
I didn't pour the steps featured in this video but did pour 2 smaller (3 steps/4 risers) sets for stoops at the same residence. The steps shown in the video were as you suspected: walls first, steps after. Since the other two sets were for stoops at entry doors it allowed me to do them as monolithic pours. The reason for the unique (non-bullnose) configuration is that there is strip lighting concealed under the nosing of each step which provides a very cool lighting effect at night. The formwork, reinforcing and wiring were quite particular and time consuming, complicated, as you would expect, by the fact that the nosings are curved instead of straight.
Best regards for whatever projects you're working on!
As long as you have masonry bits, can I drill the holes with a regular drill or do I need to go out and buy an impact wrench?
Ed Collins ; if you are going into concrete, you need a hammer drill. If you are going into concrete blocks, you can use a regular drill, with masonry bit. An impact drill is a driver, for driver screws, it's not a drill.
You’ll go through a lot of masonry bits if you use a regular drill, and you can also burn out the motor if you don’t let the drill “rest” (you can smell the brushes giving off a burnt electrical smell). If drilling concrete isn’t a regular thing for you, there are cheap corded hammer drills in the $30 range, cheaper if you buy used.