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I'm getting ready to install a rack to hold a 180 lb punching bag and the base of it bolts into the concrete similar to the plate you installed. The company sent some 3/8" x 3" Tapcons as part of the install kit (the base takes 6 bolts). Do you think those are strong enough to hold it or would these wedge anchors be better?
I have both wedge anchors and sleeve anchors. The sleeve anchors box states they they are "for Brick, Block and Concrete applications" Also, according to the documents on the wedge anchors and comparable size sleeve anchors, the sleeve anchors are rated at about 3-4 times the strength for both the pullout and the shear ratings, as compared to the wedge anchors. This information contradicts that contained in your video. For reference, the 'wedge' anchor I have is 'Cobra' Brand Parawedge and the sleeve anchor is 'Red Head' Brand. Both are 3/8 inch diameter, sold at Home Depot. Having said that, I still think I prefer the wedge for my concrete application, but more reading up on these may be in order.
@@SeanFitz-vo4fm Thank you! I was ready to take my just purchased sleeve anchors (going into a sidewalk) back to store and get wedge anchors yaay don’t have to!
@@swimmerstevieg Thank you. So since posting, I came across some additional information regarding the sleeve anchors. I believe it was from the sleeve anchor company web site but I'm not certain. Anyway, this new information seemed to indicate that the sleeve anchors were for 'porous' concrete, even though the box simply says 'concrete'. My project involved repairing a concrete pool, and I actually used one of the sleeve type (grabbed the wrong box and wasn't thinking) and the rest I used the wedge type. They both worked fine, but for the pool concrete, I did prefer the wedge type a little more, but honestly, I think either will work fine. Btw, after drilling the hole, I blew out the dust with canned air and injected some hi-strength Gorilla adhesive, just to add to the overall 'grip' of the assembly.
Me deciding which video to choose: "Hmm I dunno, this one is the most recent, but it doesn't have 400,000 views like the other" *clicks video* Caliber8 Tools: "Alright watch out for these two similar yet different types of anchors" Me: "Oh hell yeah I clicked the right video!" I'm going to use concrete anchors to secure a car port in my driveway, so your video was very helpful, especially when you made me realize that my concrete slab might be shallow and what to do if I hit dirt. Thank you!
@@brittislove hey bro love to hear you doing your carport. I’m trying to do mine for the first time. And I’m wondering what size tubing and thickness you ended up going with. And how did you get your square metal piece or did you just get a metal sheet from the steel supply. Love to hear back I’m excited to do this.
Hey so I can only use a concrete anchor in actually concrete, and the sleeve anchor is for brick and mortar. So I shouldn’t use the concrete anchor on brick right?
I am needing to pore a 4'x4' 6" tall on top of my cement basement floor (I do not want to find out how thin or thick our basement floor is) so I can put my new drill press onto. I do not want to have to drill the cement slab in order to secure the base of drill press to. I fear that I would crack the new slab. So my question is what type of hardware can I put in the concrete as I am poring it so I can bolt the base to the raised concrete slab? Also would it be advised to glue the slab I am poring once it has dried and cured to my basement floor with cement glue?
Concrete anchor bolts can be sunk in wet concrete immediately after it is poured. How much you leave sticking out is up to you. You can starighten it or plumb it as the concrete hardens. You should add a bonding adhesive to the mix before you pour so it sticks to the base slab.
Join the Caliber8 Tribe to get a free ebook on 10 simple ways to beautify your home plus more home improvement and diy tips- join.caliber8.com
Get the Ultimate Utility Bag use coupon code Tools- www.caliber8.com/product/caliber8-ultimate-utility-bag/
Thank you for getting straight to the point and not wasting time telling us where metals come from!
Lol.. Glad it helped.
or if it's a Full Moon. 😂
Or what your favorite toolbox is
Thanks for the clear information and demonstration
Glad it helped.
Very informative. Thank you! 😊
Glad it helped.
This is exactly the shop class I needed today. Installing handrail on porch steps - but first, anchors.
Glad it helped.
Thank you! Super helpful. Great pacing
You’re welcome. Glad it helped.
I always learn something when i watch your channel.
Glad to hear that.
Did I miss the part where he showed how to set the anchor.
I'm getting ready to install a rack to hold a 180 lb punching bag and the base of it bolts into the concrete similar to the plate you installed. The company sent some 3/8" x 3" Tapcons as part of the install kit (the base takes 6 bolts). Do you think those are strong enough to hold it or would these wedge anchors be better?
Nothing wrong with reinforcing with wedge anchors.
I have both wedge anchors and sleeve anchors. The sleeve anchors box states they they are "for Brick, Block and Concrete applications"
Also, according to the documents on the wedge anchors and comparable size sleeve anchors, the sleeve anchors are rated at about 3-4 times the strength for both the pullout and the shear ratings, as compared to the wedge anchors.
This information contradicts that contained in your video.
For reference, the 'wedge' anchor I have is 'Cobra' Brand Parawedge and the sleeve anchor is 'Red Head' Brand. Both are 3/8 inch diameter, sold at Home Depot.
Having said that, I still think I prefer the wedge for my concrete application, but more reading up on these may be in order.
@@SeanFitz-vo4fm Thank you! I was ready to take my just purchased sleeve anchors (going into a sidewalk) back to store and get wedge anchors yaay don’t have to!
@@swimmerstevieg Thank you. So since posting, I came across some additional information regarding the sleeve anchors. I believe it was from the sleeve anchor company web site but I'm not certain. Anyway, this new information seemed to indicate that the sleeve anchors were for 'porous' concrete, even though the box simply says 'concrete'. My project involved repairing a concrete pool, and I actually used one of the sleeve type (grabbed the wrong box and wasn't thinking) and the rest I used the wedge type. They both worked fine, but for the pool concrete, I did prefer the wedge type a little more, but honestly, I think either will work fine. Btw, after drilling the hole, I blew out the dust with canned air and injected some hi-strength Gorilla adhesive, just to add to the overall 'grip' of the assembly.
@@SeanFitz-vo4fmThank you for that additional info.
Well done.Thank you.
Glad it helped.
Is it okay to hammer the anchors without having to use a nut?
If you are using a nut to hammer the anchors, doesn’t it hurt the threads?
You’re not using the nut to hammer the anchors. You hit the anchor tip itself and use the nut to fasten whatever you’re installing down.
Good stuff my brother
Thanks. Glad it helped.
Thanks I learnt alot.
Great. Glad it helped.
Isn't there minimum distances that wedge anchors must be from a concrete edge, which would restrict the use for exterior walls?
Anchors can’t be closer than 1 7/8” from an unsupported edge or 5 anchor diameters.
Me deciding which video to choose: "Hmm I dunno, this one is the most recent, but it doesn't have 400,000 views like the other"
*clicks video*
Caliber8 Tools: "Alright watch out for these two similar yet different types of anchors"
Me: "Oh hell yeah I clicked the right video!"
I'm going to use concrete anchors to secure a car port in my driveway, so your video was very helpful, especially when you made me realize that my concrete slab might be shallow and what to do if I hit dirt. Thank you!
Anytime. Glad it helped.
@@brittislove hey bro love to hear you doing your carport. I’m trying to do mine for the first time. And I’m wondering what size tubing and thickness you ended up going with. And how did you get your square metal piece or did you just get a metal sheet from the steel supply. Love to hear back I’m excited to do this.
Hey so I can only use a concrete anchor in actually concrete, and the sleeve anchor is for brick and mortar. So I shouldn’t use the concrete anchor on brick right?
Correct.
So do you prefer these or “tapcons” thanks - novice here. Great video
Tapcons are like the all in one anchor. That’s what I appreciate. Thanks. Glad it helped.
and also you cant hit the nut as it can ruin the threads so make sure the nut is clear when you are hammering
Thanks for that tip. Appreciate you.
I thought he had the nut there to protect the anchor threads 😮
I am needing to pore a 4'x4' 6" tall on top of my cement basement floor (I do not want to find out how thin or thick our basement floor is) so I can put my new drill press onto. I do not want to have to drill the cement slab in order to secure the base of drill press to. I fear that I would crack the new slab. So my question is what type of hardware can I put in the concrete as I am poring it so I can bolt the base to the raised concrete slab? Also would it be advised to glue the slab I am poring once it has dried and cured to my basement floor with cement glue?
Concrete anchor bolts can be sunk in wet concrete immediately after it is poured. How much you leave sticking out is up to you. You can starighten it or plumb it as the concrete hardens.
You should add a bonding adhesive to the mix before you pour so it sticks to the base slab.
@@Caliber8Tools Thank you for taking the time to answer my question.
You need to mark your drill bit for the depth
Good tip thanks.
Great channel
Thank you.
With the sleeave anchor, how do i know which size bit to use ?
The bit should be the same diameter as the anchor.