I just want to let you know how grateful I am for all your videos and your schematics that you have online which has been very helpful to me. Keep up the good work and I just can't thank you enough for all that you do for us.
Hey Partner, It’s been awhile back but you answered my question about a Hard Lockout situation I was having on my Norcold N811. You suggested jumping from pin 15 on the control board to the ground bolt with a Wire. It took about 15 or 20 Seconds to hear that Clunk sound, but that did unlock it! It worked Exactly as You Described!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
I had the same problem with my Dometic fridge as well. 1994 Fleetwood Tioga Montana. AC was getting to the board, AC would come on, then randomly switch to gas or just turn off. The problem was the old linear AC power supply / DC converter that came with the RV. The capacitors were going bad and a loud hum from the transformer. There was an AC ripple on the DC side of the circuit board. Changed out the power supply for a new switching power supply with charging for LiPo4 batteries and the issue went away. Cheers, Bob
I just want to say thank you for all these great videos, I'm a diy guy and your videos have saved me time and money. Likes and subs from me all day! Full time from Canada with maple bacon love! ❤️
Great video! We have a DM2652V fridge on recently acquired RV. On our first night there is a lound whirring noise coming from the unit and cycles on and off -- on for around four seconds and off for six or seven seconds. Driving us nuts! Any theories? Any info would be most appreciated!
RM3801 freezes down to 22° in lower compartment and -9° in the freezer. Replaced the bad cooling unit two years ago and it worked perfectly until I defrosted it after discovering the drain tube was clogged. Made the assumption that the thermostat had failed so I put a new one in with no change. If I turn it down until it clicks off, then it won't start. If I turn it on just until it clicks, it just keeps cooling. Can the problem be saturated insulation? It doesn't make sense to me that the thermostat works fine manually but doesn't regulate when it gets cold. Can the control PCB cause these symptoms? Has me completely stumped. All I did was defrost it and clear the defrost drain. I'm right across the water from you near Seattle. Thanks for doing what you do!
I have been looking for the video on testing eyebrow bds. I have just noticed the timeliness here so I apologize for dinging you about this. Is there a way that you can let me know if or when that comes...alternatively if it is OK to ask, is there somewhere else I might find that info. Thanks...I have learned a lot from your videos.
I have an Evergreen Reactor 25' Toy-hauler with a Onan Generator, RV QG 4000 EVAP Model 4KYFA-6747P, that has become difficult to start and then will only run for 30 seconds, shuts down then the light flashes. I can't figure out how to get the generator out of the camper to work on it because the access door is to small. I think it may be a fuel pump. What are your thoughts?
I have a Dometic DMC4101 12V Refrigerator, no propane. I have a 2023 Thor Axis 24.1 and I have had it plugged in to the house for a while and I noticed today that the fridge was off. I turned it on and it ran maybe a few minutes and it turned off. It will not turn it back on. Fuse is good, breaker is not thrown. What's up?
Hi I am a total newbie. In a 21 ' C class damon. Dometic fridge. Fridge not working.The light (orange check light) won't even come on. It has a button on it, that says ac/lp. but not even the light is on. Any thoughts?
I recently changed a cooling unit on a Dometic 1350msx double door refer. And while changing it the noticed that the chamber was getting hot like normal, but as it went through the absorption stage. Would never get hot past the upper left part of cooling unit. Which would keep tripping the limit switch on chamber. Replaced board and cooling unit. Any suggestions on what to look for??
I wish that the board you had was shown, mine is covered by a plastic cover and then items were installed that make it nearly impossible to get the cover off. I assume the fuse is behind the cover and no one thought about ease of maintenance.
I have a Dometic RM 1350 slmx and it runs on AC and Propane will not run just on electric can you help? Have had it in to a jayco dealer they said it was a fuse and replaced it. They said it could be the board.
I have a Domestic 2600 gas electric refrigerator (RV). Worked great at first, but now the freezer works half-ass on either but refrigerator doesn't work on either one
I don't know if you read the comments or not but I do have a dometic refrigerator And it's one of the older ones 2007. I downloaded your schematic and it does run on gas but it doesn't get cold and when it's on electric it gets too hot and kicks out and I have to reset the breaker on the heater chimney. It's got me confused and to what it might be. I ordered a new board because I thought well maybe it's just allowing the electric heater to just keep going and it's not controlling. But it doesn't get cold on gas neither so even though it's running on gas and it doesn't kick anything out because it must be controlling on gas okay it's not getting cold. It's a tough one I wish it was easier. But if you got any thoughts please let me know I'm sure you have run into this before.
After the refrigerator has run for at least an hour or so, feel the boiler temperature with your hand, and feel the absorber coils (that go around and round and round) with your other hand. If the absorber coils are cold then you have a blockage and that is not something that's field serviceable. I talk a little bit about blockages in the first few minutes of this video. ruclips.net/video/--DCnSw1jP4/видео.html
My reset thermal button keeps popping so I'm testing everything. The element test out good for ohms and plugged in 2.5 amps. 5 amp fuse good so checking electric on to see if the fridge is cooling before the button reset pops again. If it does cool before it pops the the reset is worn out. Hopefully that's all? Update i just bypassed the reset button with a jumper to see if the fridge cools down. If it does then will replace the reset thermal switch
I have a problem with my RV furnace would like to know if you could figure out the problem please ! I've watch most videos and still cannot figure it out. I've replaced circuit board,sail switch,igniter. When I turn it on I hear the fan,hear the clicking,I smell lp gas and feel the heat but it suddenly get cold and ends up shutting off. It's frustrating! lol tyia !!
My dometic refrigerator was fine. It got really cold outside for two days. -46 degrees … It warmed up outside to about 20 my refrigerator just quit working. I put a heater in the back of the refrigerator. It still doesn’t work… the fuse is go in the panel and in the control board. No ammonia smell… I hear a click at the control board when the refrigerator is turned on and off… the pilot light will come right on when switched to gas… I’ve checked the thermostat on the fins in the refrigerator… I’ve unhooked it as well… it’s a cu826a model… I’m stumped
This one is a serious brain bender. Dometic RM3801 The flame stays lit even when the thermostat is off. Thermostat tested and replaced anyway with no difference. Consistently shuts the flame off if I turn off the front panel switch. Worked perfectly until I defrosted it. The thermostat will light up the burner but I need to shut down the power switch to kill the flame. ???😮
Frig lights are fed by 12V DC. To verify AC remove the cover from the lower control board (outside back) and use a meter to confirm 120 VAC through the glass fuse.
I just want to let you know how grateful I am for all your videos and your schematics that you have online which has been very helpful to me. Keep up the good work and I just can't thank you enough for all that you do for us.
Hey Partner, It’s been awhile back but you answered my question about a Hard Lockout situation I was having on my Norcold N811. You suggested jumping from pin 15 on the control board to the ground bolt with a Wire. It took about 15 or 20 Seconds to hear that Clunk sound, but that did unlock it! It worked Exactly as You Described!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
I have this exact problem, fridge only runs on LP. Would love to see a video troubleshooting this
Me too
I had the same problem with my Dometic fridge as well. 1994 Fleetwood Tioga Montana. AC was getting to the board, AC would come on, then randomly switch to gas or just turn off. The problem was the old linear AC power supply / DC converter that came with the RV. The capacitors were going bad and a loud hum from the transformer. There was an AC ripple on the DC side of the circuit board. Changed out the power supply for a new switching power supply with charging for LiPo4 batteries and the issue went away. Cheers, Bob
I just want to say thank you for all these great videos, I'm a diy guy and your videos have saved me time and money. Likes and subs from me all day! Full time from Canada with maple bacon love! ❤️
Great information, thank you for taking the time to share about questions you get and the answers. It does help for sure. Take care. Dave.
As usual you’re very giving with your knowledge.
Great video! We have a DM2652V fridge on recently acquired RV. On our first night there is a lound whirring noise coming from the unit and cycles on and off -- on for around four seconds and off for six or seven seconds. Driving us nuts! Any theories? Any info would be most appreciated!
Again great information. looking forward to the next video. Thanks Don
Our Dometic runs on Gas but not on AC when plugged in. Help
A comprehensive playlist of for fridges would be great, thanks.
Hi Thomas, here is our refrigerator playlist: ruclips.net/video/EJnlGnvcn74/видео.html
RM3801 freezes down to 22° in lower compartment and -9° in the freezer.
Replaced the bad cooling unit two years ago and it worked perfectly until I defrosted it after discovering the drain tube was clogged.
Made the assumption that the thermostat had failed so I put a new one in with no change.
If I turn it down until it clicks off, then it won't start. If I turn it on just until it clicks, it just keeps cooling.
Can the problem be saturated insulation?
It doesn't make sense to me that the thermostat works fine manually but doesn't regulate when it gets cold.
Can the control PCB cause these symptoms?
Has me completely stumped.
All I did was defrost it and clear the defrost drain.
I'm right across the water from you near Seattle.
Thanks for doing what you do!
I have been looking for the video on testing eyebrow bds. I have just noticed the timeliness here so I apologize for dinging you about this. Is there a way that you can let me know if or when that comes...alternatively if it is OK to ask, is there somewhere else I might find that info.
Thanks...I have learned a lot from your videos.
I have an Evergreen Reactor 25' Toy-hauler with a Onan
Generator, RV QG 4000 EVAP Model 4KYFA-6747P, that has become difficult to start and then will only run for 30 seconds, shuts down then the light flashes. I can't figure out how to get the generator out of the camper to work on it because the access door is to small. I think it may be a fuel pump.
What are your thoughts?
I have a Dometic DMC4101 12V Refrigerator, no propane. I have a 2023 Thor Axis 24.1 and I have had it plugged in to the house for a while and I noticed today that the fridge was off. I turned it on and it ran maybe a few minutes and it turned off. It will not turn it back on. Fuse is good, breaker is not thrown. What's up?
Hi I am a total newbie. In a 21 ' C class damon. Dometic fridge. Fridge not working.The light (orange check light) won't even come on. It has a button on it,
that says ac/lp. but not even the light is on. Any thoughts?
Thank you! Darren
I recently changed a cooling unit on a Dometic 1350msx double door refer. And while changing it the noticed that the chamber was getting hot like normal, but as it went through the absorption stage. Would never get hot past the upper left part of cooling unit. Which would keep tripping the limit switch on chamber. Replaced board and cooling unit. Any suggestions on what to look for??
I wish that the board you had was shown, mine is covered by a plastic cover and then items were installed that make it nearly impossible to get the cover off. I assume the fuse is behind the cover and no one thought about ease of maintenance.
I have a Dometic RM 1350 slmx and it runs on AC and Propane will not run just on electric can you help? Have had it in to a jayco dealer they said it was a fuse and replaced it. They said it could be the board.
I have a Domestic 2600 gas electric refrigerator (RV). Worked great at first, but now the freezer works half-ass on either but refrigerator doesn't work on either one
What about I found a circuit board for my RM7030 dometic refrigerator but it doesn't look like the one on my refrigerator
I don't know if you read the comments or not but I do have a dometic refrigerator
And it's one of the older ones 2007. I downloaded your schematic and it does run on gas but it doesn't get cold and when it's on electric it gets too hot and kicks out and I have to reset the breaker on the heater chimney. It's got me confused and to what it might be. I ordered a new board because I thought well maybe it's just allowing the electric heater to just keep going and it's not controlling. But it doesn't get cold on gas neither so even though it's running on gas and it doesn't kick anything out because it must be controlling on gas okay it's not getting cold. It's a tough one I wish it was easier. But if you got any thoughts please let me know I'm sure you have run into this before.
After the refrigerator has run for at least an hour or so, feel the boiler temperature with your hand, and feel the absorber coils (that go around and round and round) with your other hand. If the absorber coils are cold then you have a blockage and that is not something that's field serviceable. I talk a little bit about blockages in the first few minutes of this video.
ruclips.net/video/--DCnSw1jP4/видео.html
My reset thermal button keeps popping so I'm testing everything. The element test out good for ohms and plugged in 2.5 amps. 5 amp fuse good so checking electric on to see if the fridge is cooling before the button reset pops again. If it does cool before it pops the the reset is worn out. Hopefully that's all?
Update i just bypassed the reset button with a jumper to see if the fridge cools down. If it does then will replace the reset thermal switch
I have a problem with my RV furnace would like to know if you could figure out the problem please ! I've watch most videos and still cannot figure it out. I've replaced circuit board,sail switch,igniter. When I turn it on I hear the fan,hear the clicking,I smell lp gas and feel the heat but it suddenly get cold and ends up shutting off. It's frustrating! lol tyia !!
@My RV Works, Inc.
I have norcold nx8 turns on fine on power and in gas. Couple days go by and it stops working... what can it be?
Can the dometic fridge run on a/c power only?
Good information.
My dometic refrigerator was fine. It got really cold outside for two days. -46 degrees …
It warmed up outside to about 20 my refrigerator just quit working. I put a heater in the back of the refrigerator. It still doesn’t work… the fuse is go in the panel and in the control board. No ammonia smell… I hear a click at the control board when the refrigerator is turned on and off… the pilot light will come right on when switched to gas… I’ve checked the thermostat on the fins in the refrigerator… I’ve unhooked it as well… it’s a cu826a model… I’m stumped
Thanks bro
This one is a serious brain bender.
Dometic RM3801 The flame stays lit even when the thermostat is off. Thermostat tested and replaced anyway with no difference.
Consistently shuts the flame off if I turn off the front panel switch.
Worked perfectly until I defrosted it.
The thermostat will light up the burner but I need to shut down the power switch to kill the flame.
???😮
If all the lights are coming on on the refrigerator, that tells me it's getting A/C
Frig lights are fed by 12V DC. To verify AC remove the cover from the lower control board (outside back) and use a meter to confirm 120 VAC through the glass fuse.