You nailed it. I tried looking at my RV website and tried to describe the problem. I got nowhere. Your video with the blinking clock on the microwave was my exact situation. I found my converter and yes! I had two blown 35 fuses. Everything works again. Thanks.
My parents bought a RV and the only way their 12 v works is keeping the battery on a charger but all of the 110 works fine with shore power. So with this video I know now know how to chk their converter. Thank you so much for your indepth training.
Have what we think is a converter problem, found your site, showing my husband this video when you moved the ground lug, his comment about you. “This guy has big electrical nuts”. Please interpret that as much respect for your skills! Thank you for all these videos! Wish you were closer!
RUN! Lmao. I started as an RV Tech about 3 years ago and couldn’t find any RUclips videos to help! I have a lot of background with electricity/electronics and mechanics though so I was able to figure everything out eventually. Now, it’s all so simple.
You are a very knowledgeable man you know what you're talking about but please slow down a little bit so that us slower people can understand you better God bless you you're a great help too 👍
@@Furbyking_09 you can always go into your RUclips settings and change the video speed. You don't have to slow it down too much to get the effects you want.
You explain the workings of an rv better than anybody I have seen. For somebody that has never done the things you have done it may be absorbed better if you explained them a little slower. Please do not stop doing your videos because they are more valuable than you know!!!
Awesome video. Because of the whole Covid thing, I've lost my company and my place to live. I was able to find a 1991 Econoline 350 RV for $450, but it's in really bad shape. Mostly water damage. I'm trying to make it livable and I've started by just gutting the whole thing. As I rebuild the cabinets and fixtures, I'll need to do a lot of rewiring. I'm glad I found your channel.
Thank you, you just saved our lives, it's 107° here in AZ and we only thought there was 1 breaker box outside, unplugged everything and found the breaker box inside and it worked woooohoooo thank you!
Nearly my exact symptoms except batteries were not dead as I have a couple solar panels sending juice to recharge the batteries. But I did notice no working 12V circuitry when plugged to shore power and battery disconnect set to "off". Comprehensible description of the science and & application and some of the perplexing issues such as "Where you might locate the converter". Thanks for going to the trouble of filming-editing-posting videos and sharing your knowledge with us. It sure helps and settles the anxiety in dealing with situations.
the problem alot in RUclips 😢.. is the explaining lack of or people really don't know fully of what there trying to present.. you are most definitely the best at all levels in each video u present.. i appreciate all cuz greatly has helped me .
Firstly thank you. I would suggest that you dedicate in gradual steps more videos only on electricity in length because. Since you anyway go about it beyond just the fix, no doubt your followers would appreciate your talent for explaining things better than any professor out there. Hopefully we get that lucky!!
Listen carefully folks...he's right about if you upgrade to AGM batteries you Must change your battery charger to match. We bought an old Class A with a new $350 AGM starter battery that lasted barely more than a year...it would show full voltage but instantly drop to 7 volts when I tried to start the engine. Researching a replacement I learned that things have changed since our class A was built 30 years ago. I've installed a small Optima charger on my dashboard that shows me the condition of my starter battery and not only charges it but reconditions it at various times. Well worth the money. I installed AGM House Batteries that are charged from a new Converter I installed. The original Converter weighed 30 pounds, was always hot to the touch and was really loud 24 hours a day...the new one weighs maybe 4 pounds, is silent, cool to the touch and does tons of things that the old converter couldn't do for my batteries. I installed the new converter floating 4 inches above the floor and several inches from any walls on 2 large L-brackets to facilitate the cooling of the unit.
2 battle born bats, 1 go power ic2000 inv/conv/char, go power controller, 2 flex rich 100 watt solar panels, 1 rich 20a MPPT controller, trc surge protector .. u can thank me later ..this is 1 year of full use in camper & hundreds of hours of use after 6 months of initial research b 4 install. PS THIS IS THE BEST ExPLAIN'en LUCY I'VE EVER HEARD damn that was good.
Incredibly helpful. The fan on the invertor no longer runs to assist with keeping said appliance from getting too warm. I had noticed this at least a year ago and so I've placed a fan down by the appliance as a way to give the cooling effect of the non working fan. So far so good. I do feel lucky thus far that the appliance hasn't failed. My battery is staying charged, so whether the charger is within the invertor or elsewhere I have no idea but at least the charger does and has kept my battery charged. I don't travel with the RV (1997 Shasta w/small slide out) so I only use one 'flooded' battery for the 12V boards that do the things you spoke about and all those systems do work properly. Of course I now know to operate the slide, if ever I do need to, I'll add a second battery in parrallel to increase amperage for the motors. I've lived in this RV since November 2015 in Arizona through cold winters and oppresively hot summers. I don't use my LP gas furnace as the blower fan has a worn bearing that squeals when I try to use it, which I just don't and hav not for several years now. But seeing how easy it is to remove the stove I may attempt to get to the blower motor which is located under the stove. I've suffered two mild strokes in the past five years, I'm 65 years old and no longer agile, so I don't know if I shall try to fix the blower motor myself or continue to use electric space heaters. I realize the fire danger of over taxing the shore power and such with space heaters and I know I really need to get things working properly. In particular I should save the money soon to be able to have a invertor on standby for when mine does eventually fail. I rarely use the 12 volt lights, but of course the fridge needs the 12 volts either from my house battery or from the invertor being I'm on shore power. Same goes for the roof A/C board and when I rarely use the water heater the gas ignitor circuit* needs a working invertor or a charged 12 volt house battery. *This I knew already. ALL OF THIS I WROTE ABOUT IS SOMETHING NEWLY LEARNED, AS I WAS UNAWARE OF MUCH TOO MUCH OBVIOUSLY, UNTIL I WATCHED THIS VIDEO.
Very good explaining each step , easy to follow !! One of the best I've seen - I've been in the electrical industry for 52 yrs.... a joy to watch ......
Thank You! Ever since crooks cut off my catalytic converter and I had a new one welded on, I’ve had nothing but electrical problems! Thanks to your vids, I’m grasping the why and how to fix my issues! Thanks again
Great video and explanation. I just went through this same process of elimination on a 1999 Cedar Creek travel trailer. After all the troubleshooting I found that the AC to DC converter had gone bad. Much simpler fix than replacing the whole power center. Took 15 minute to uninstall the old unit and install the new one. Now everything is working again on both sides (AC/DC) as it should.
I a widow with a dream motorhome....I can only do 1987 Ford cut away and the way you explain has given me great hope I can manage this....thank you so very much!!
Your videos are excellent. I am now confident talking to service technicians. Watching your content help 💯 my understanding of how electricity works in my RV.
Hi Darren, thanks for helping me so many times. I do have a conundrum that I hope you can explain. Three things happened when I plugged in to shore power at a park. The fuse on my fridge blew, my electric element for my fridge also quit, and the high limit thermostat on my electric side of my water heater tripped, and my converter quit charging. I’m thinking this wasn’t all coincidence but I’m not sure. We changed locations in the park. I ordered and replaced the converter/ charger. In the mean time,I charged the batteries with our jeep. I changed the fuse in the fridge and , thanks to you, tested the electric element and it is bad but the propane side works fine. I will replace that when we get home. Next ,I reset the limit switch on the water heater and it worked fine for aa couple weeks and then quit. We have since been using the propane to heat the water. When I get home to,or row I will begin the recovery from vacation breakdown. What would cause the refrigerator fuse to blow? Bad shore power? Heating element? Also the water heater , from the bad power. I never lost my 12 volt ,just the charger and I assume that was the bad power...... lastly can you explain exactly what bad power is and how I can avoid it in the future...... this put a real damper on our vacation but at least I am able to fix a lot of stuff myself.... thanks a lot Darren.
Hey Darren, I began to replace the electric element on th fridge today. The element has welded itself to the tube and I can’t get it loose. Have been saturating it with liquid wrench. It feels like it is going to break off before it comes out. I guess if that happens I’ll need to remove the fridge for access to that tube. Any suggestions?
Hi Augie, Your question has been selected for an upcoming video where it will be read and discussed by Darren - Certified RV Tech and online personality for the 'My RV Works' videos. If you have not already subscribed to the 'My RV Works' RUclips channel, please do so and keep a watch for the ‘RV Tech Talk’ video releases. This series is a selection of comments and questions that will be covered and released weekly. Here is our RUclips link: ruclips.net/user/myrvworksinc Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team
You got super lucky. Every time I have wanted to access something under the cook stove there has been floor in the cabinet under the stove. Better go buy that lottery ticket. Good job, as always Darren
Yea, you’re a TEACHER! Nice explanation of the problem. The only thing makes me fun (or, honestly, sad...) is the design of the coach: to pull out two pounds electrical box you need to disconnect LP lines and pull out 25 pounds box! I gonna fire the designer: he doesn’t care about maintenance cost of the product he did at all.
Know you probably won’t see this cause this video is from a year ago but thank you for this very informative video. Especially the part about different types of batteries will need different types of converters/chargers. Cause I am needing to replace my water filled battery and was considering a sealed type battery. Thanks again. 👍👍
Thank you for this video. Iam a technician helping a friend with his refridgerator and this video answered everything. He is running on A/c only with no batteries and his fridge keeps cutting out, but when I hit the water pump or the slide out it will kick the fridge back on. Well you just made me realize why.. His converter is bad and Im guessing that its over charging hitting the slide out is pulling such a load that its dropping it down enough to alow it back on.. Im pretty sure the diodes are bad in the converter because I was picking up quite a bit A/C voltage at the dc leads and fuses. Thank you very much!!
This was exactly my issue. Some AC outlets working, but no fridge, furnace, lights. Bought a voltage meter, did the diagnostics. A bad converter. Purchased a new converter, and installed it within an hour. Thanks for the help.
You are a lifesaver. I have a 2020 South Fork that had some of the outlets go off during a storm. Thanks for guiding through the location of the fuses. Even the stupid place I bought it from couldn't help me unless I paid for a tech. $3.00 and I am up and running again!!! :)
Watched a couple of videos. Tested the out let it was reporting strong......however, it was a 20 volt sideways prong. The prong reciver inside the out let had bent and was not Making connection. Replaced outlet and saved money on the converter.....thank you again for explaining to start at the source and complete all tests. Troubleshooting isn't for the quick crowd....slow down and save. I also noticed that when I unplugged and plugged into outlet lights and converter would come alive for about 3 seconds. Started tinkering and then confirmed outlet fail.
Remember to use your batt disconnect switch to turn off the battery connection before doing this job. Also, the batteries in this video are probably not going to come back to life if they're reading an absolute zero voltage.
Thanks for the info especially if you are changing your battery type from liquid to AGM sealed. Changing the converter doesn't look too bad depending where it is located.
Thanks for sharing your expertise. I’m refurbishing a ‘94 Oshkosh Sahara Diesel pusher. These videos are very helpful. I’m a novice when it comes to RV electrical. Thank you very much. I’m going to test my converter next
Hey Darren, enjoy the channel you’re the best. As a career Marine tech if this were a boat, I may have load tested the outlet for the converter. Sometimes you can even smell if the converter is burned up. You know before you do the test but you have to do the test. Great channel. I try to learn something every day.
Hey Darren, I just discovered your channel and I live in Agnew! We're practically neighbors man! I had an interesting thing happen last week, my mom called and said she could smell something hot like wire burning. I went over there to take a look. I started with power to my shop from the meter base, then to the 100 amp panel I upgraded in there a couple of years ago ...240 so far so good, then at the 70 amp pedestal. Still ok at 240 Then Inside the 40 ft park model I had 240 at the 50 amp main, and even intermittent 120 at some of the breakers, however it would change every time I put my Fluke meter on it, sometimes the power out on the breakers would go from 120 to 90 and then to 180 and all over the place. Long story short, the 50 amp shore power cord which is a twist lock on the outside of the trailer trailer had worked its way counterclockwise and therefore the neutral was barely connected, so the circuit was trying to use one or both of the hot wires to complete the circuit back to the substation instead of using the Neutral. Needless to say we had to buy a new tv for her, those new tv's don't like 180. I'm currently trying to locate a new converter for a lady that works for me, her and her husband live in a fifth wheel and they lost all 12v power, they don't currently have batteries hooked up in the trailer, which I heard can be bad as the charger doesn't have any resistance load to work against. Anyway, I'm having trouble locating the exact unit. Its a 2007 trailer with a model 555 Parallax Converter-charger. It looks like, as I am in the middle of the research phase of this issue, that a Parallax 5355 is a really close match not only in features but the size as well. Thoughts? Maybe one day we will run into each other, I stay in my trailer 3 nights a week in Forks, and besides my mom's trailer I also have my Aunt on our property in her own 40 ft fifth wheel, and then across the street my other Aunt is in her own 40 ft fifth wheel. So as you can imagine I am always doing something on these trailers. Maybe I should go watch your video on becoming an rv repair business. But that would be in another 10 years after I retire. :)
Wow! Really good videos. I've been thinking about a project that would require me to temporarily remove my range. and thinking, and thinking and thinking I don't really want to remove it... well guess what I just found out? Six(ish) screws and couple wrenches. I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow. Thanks (i think) for the info. Please keep doing these videos. You are by far and away the best resource for this sort of stuff on RUclips.
Thank you for explaining and demonstrating changing the converter. Sadly our converter and panel are one unit. So the repair will involve reconnecting every wire for the breakers and fuses. I know our trailer was cheap but the design caused lots of extra expense.
When we come across that in the field, we orphan the existing converter in place and install/wire a new standalone converter behind the panel. Check our playlist, we have video showing this procedure
Good video. I’m familiar with RV and electrical systems. I’m a retired industrial maintenance technician. Good explanation for the lay person. Glad to see how easy the range removes for future reference. Thanks for the info 😊
So if the batteries are dead; doesn't that mean they need to get new batteries? Cause the batteries will not come back to 100%. I wanted to say that your videos are so helpful. I was thinking of putting AGM's in to replace the cheap Wally Mart batteries that are there and now I better not do this because of the charging profile. Thanks for the tip.
I was wondering the same thing. I know that usually, if a battery is run down all the way, it will cause permanent damage, resulting in the battery not taking a complete charge or not holding a charge.
Hi Darren great video. I'm very familiar with Carlsborg. My Sprinter based MH got left unplugged for a couple weeks and when I went to use it I no 12v lights. I plugged into shore power and my battery meter said I had 94%. It continued to drop as I charged it.12v lights work on shore. Now after a weekend trip it's at zero after being plugged in overnight. I'm sure unrelated but I don't have tail lights either. Gotta love RVs, but makes work for you. Cheers
At some place on the fuse panel i have 13.6 and other 12.9 got 13.6 at the connection of the awning outside even if the fuse is out and the motor wont run but it run ok on other circuit 🤪
hello enjoy watching your video's . I trying to learn as much as I can. My wife and I are still trying to get our first motorhome. Thank you so much for sharing knowledge.
Dealing with this camping this weekend. Fortunately I had an old school battery charger.. 2 10 and 50 amp start selection switch. Hooked it up to the battery and will at least get to deal with this at home over the week.
Just 2 things that I want to add: 1. 120v might be present at the outlet, but if the wire is frayed when you try to draw amps it can't push them through. Rare, but I've seen it. 2. An open wire will not trip a fuse or breaker. You can have a bad wire still between the converter and the battery. If the wire isn't making contact with a ground the fuse/breaker will not blow
i have to say...this video save me $$$ from taking my airstream to the dealer. Could not find the short on my fantastic fan, thermostat and ac unit all 3 did not work, AC work just fine but your explanantion about this boards needing their 12 volts to make their circuits work. My batteries showed good voltage but their capacity was only 9%. bad batteries. Now it makes sense. they would work intermittently. Thanks for the video explanation.
You explained it so completely I totally understand it now! I have been waiting for my sons to find time in their schedules to come over and look at it. But I change out my own lights I have put up fans I have done so much on my own I really think that I can do this myself. Thank you so much
Thank you for this video! I learned a lot here. We have been having batt discharge constantly. I did check the readings on my meter and they are perfect and the fuses are good so I believe the converter is good. Still have to charge the batt every couple months though. ????? By the way I found the converter in the back of the rig in the storage bay. everything else is mid rig.
Our 2004 National Seabreeze LX has converter, inverter, and BCC all accessible from exterior basement door to right of coach steps/exterior door. No internal access, and exposed to luggage, etc... FYI.
You have been the only one I’ve seen to explain that the air conditioner needs 12 volts. As does the water heaters pilot light if running on propane. I also found out that when the battery is low and the air conditioner is running and you flip a dc switch the air conditioner shuts off. Thought there was something real bad wrong.
Great video very helpful. Did notice the owner put holes in the wood behind the stove to hold knives in Place, but alot of us put our knives away wet which would put water in with the wires and converter area. I am pretty sure electric and water means TROUBLE.
Hi Darren, A friend has a hot skin condition (62v) to ground and we have isolated to a single circuit. The hot skin disappears when a breaker is turned off. My EMS proved the pedestal and dog bone is good, (50a stepped down to 30).
I had that same setup as far as the access. I took the fence/grid off and put a air vent register cover...mounted on outside..two thumb screws....and I can access the converter very easy access now
Awesome video! I'm in an older RV and my breaker kept tripping the other day and the last time we reset it, there was a loud buzzing/electrical noise I've never hear before and it tripped the breaker, I've been scared to try to rest it again. Is it my converter? My converter is right behind the fuse panel, wasn't sure if it was breaker or the converter. And what does plugging into "dirty power" mean?
Lol. Th life of an RV technician. I did my homework as Darren suggested. So I tightened up all the live on both AC and D.C. Side of the panel... I did use an inch pounds torque screwdriver. It is the t-handle design. But if the bus bars are close to the floor it makes the handle hard to turn when the "T" bumps the floor. All the screws were below torque.
Hi Pilot Nelson, Wow, thanks for sharing your findings! We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team
Darren I just realized that you were the guy that worked on a friends super nice fifth wheel that is being stored on our property a couple of weeks ago, its got 5 slides. Sorry I wasn't there to meet you. Maybe next time. I am definitely going to add you to my contacts for future help when I can't quite figure out something.
Do a video when the converter is working and your batteries are charged and you still have no 12v lights or any brains working with no blown fuses and out of storage mode. You do the best videos. People don't under stand that the storage button or switch runs a relay that can go bad also. Its the latching relays or solenoid.
I appreciate the video! I did know how easy it is to take out a stove as I just removed mine a few weeks ago. The area below the stove in mine was not as clean as your customer's was.
You do an amazing job of making a novice like myself understand - THANK YOU! The only thing working on my tt is the microwave so this video is UBER important to me!
A twofer! Learned how to remove a stove too! Thanks. Have you ever relocated the convertor? Seems to me that the closer it is to the battery, it would be more efficient.
Ideally, a shorter run would be better, but that is rare on many layouts. As long as the wire gauging and connectors are proper, there will not be any noticeable difference in performance.
Great Video! I loved the explanations. Also, encourage your viewers with 199x trailers to change those DC converters. Mine started to catch my camper on fire by slow-burning through the floor. AND... We all love those stupid Proane / CO detectors. But they're only supposed to be good for 5-7 years. Change them.
Thanks I should be able to at least diagnose the problem with your instructive video. Ancillary question where did you get your kneepads and what are they called? Can’t seem to find a decent pair of kneepads. Thanks
I’ve had a couple of occasions where the fuse looked good to the naked eye, but was in fact compromised. Did you consider double checking them with your meter before declaring converter dead at scene? Good vid! Thanks!!!
With some fuses, that's a possibility. A hairline crack in the metal. The little glass fuses in cars could be blown at the ends where it is not visible. A continuity check would verify if the fuse is good.
Great video as I have come to expect from you! :) I would like your opinion on plus's and minus's of two options I have on my converter replacement project. Here goes...I want to replace my (brand new) converter/charger (single stage charger) with a Multi-stage charger in order to better maintain my battery bank. It would also be an increase from 55 to 70 amp so I will be changing out the existing cables going to the battery. I was thinking about the option of leaving the existing converter/charger alone( except removing the battery wires) and just adding the new converter/charger at a location near the Battery bank. Your thoughts? Thanks! and thanks for all you do for all of us!
Great videos! Have a puzzling question...Have you ever heard of surge protectors showing reverse polarity only when items plugged into outlets while connected to shore power? Items still powered up and work and the reverse polarity indicator goes back to green when items unplugged or turned off. Surge protector was clear to go before we plugged into the trailer and is fine with lights, USB ports, stove fans etc, just not outlets. We are using a 15AMP adapter for our 30AMP power cord (25ft). I asked my rv dealer (never heard of it and told me to get a new surge protector even though is only a year old) and looking all over the web but can't seem to find any like situations. I tried all outlets and different items, only the phone charger and nightlight didn't cause a shift in surge protector lights. Any insight as where to begin would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
I really like your video, now I understand more how the RV electrical sistem works and how to do trouble shooting in RVs, I'm an residential commercial electrician but we never finish learning, I have a friend that he have electrical problems with his RV, the lights and frige flicks and I figures it out that ofcourse it was something with the 12 volt sistem but I didn't know where and now watching this video it may be the convertor, or if you have another idea or place to chek his problem please let me know thanks.
Thank you so much for this wonderful video. It truly helped me understand things from the best perspective and that’s straight facts! After thousands of videos, I watched I now understand how my converter works. God bless your heart.
My girlfriends AC (both units) Just quit. We shut it off for the weekend when we came back we flipped the Thermostat on and no start. The Thermostat still has the digital readout. Her brother said it may be the thermostat as no breakers are tripped or fuses blown. She also noticed one side of the freezer not freezing as it was. No 115 breakers are tripped though the fuse panel has red led lights lit which I dont know what that means. Looking for the manuals now. So I am looking for the converter to check the output or if it has a blown fuse. This video is very helpful
Those air conditioners and the refrigerator all have 12 volt brains. So if they all died at the same time, it's very likely to be a 12 volt DC problem. If I understand your question, the red lights in the fuse panel indicate that the fuse is blown. So you might want to start there. Good luck.
@@MyRVWorks So it started working all by itself. I am wondering if the park lost power and the battery voltage dropped below 10.5 volts. The lights in the trailer worked ok though but I was told that if the ac or refrigeration does not have at least 10.5 volts they wont work
Ive made a 120v outlet plug for an up graded converter with new lithium batteries. My question is, when i installed the new converter I put the ground wire only in AC shore power outlet. Im sure this was the right thing to do, but! There ground lug or ground on my converter box itself has no ground to save the day. So where exactly do i add a ground to my new converter to my DC power panel? Or do i even need a ground on my converter? So far I haven’t found an answer on the Internet. I watch your videos to fix my RV alot! Really great stuff!🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
To add: my old converter had three wires green was ground white is positive black negative, this was all connected to shore power. So i made the 120v outlet plug from these. And of course it had a positive and negative wires to battery. But it didn’t have an extra ground wire on the DC side. Hope that makes sense. So just wondering if the new converter requires me to add a ground wire to the box to my panel if so where would it go? To reiterate haha
Darin, absolutely love your stuff. I've learned so much from watching multiple vids. I'm looking for any video you did on 'dirty shore power'. I just had to replace my breaker panel (with converter - all one unit) because I was getting the AC side but house battery was dying. Everything worked again initally but two days later (running off grid off of my inverter generator), I got the same problem again. My generator is not charging my house battery as evidenced directly with my multi-meter on the battery. However, when I got to a campground and plugged into 'real' pedistal shore power, everything is working great and my battery shows over 13 volts while charging. I think I need to test my generator voltage that it's putting out. Any videos on bad generator / shore power?
???I have a brand new camper. They didnt put the top on my battery, the 1st week it was parked at my house, it rained. The battery compartement filled with water. I took the camper for a ride. When i came back home, i plugged into house. 3 days later all DC power was gone. Could the battery being in water have killed the converter? BTW I am a 50 year old woman and I feel like an expert after watching your video it was very very instructive thank you
If you were thinking about adding Solar, and you happened to also be replacing your floors, so you have the whole thing gutted, 1) what prep would you do while nothing's in it to set yourself up for success if you're going to do it later and 2) would you run with some sort of combination of existing stuff/ house battery with new stuff or would you replace 1 with the other?
Great video thank you for your knowledge it's much appreciated!!! I have a problem I've been trying to solve I just bought a 2009 Skyline Nomad model 326 with 30 amp service.. I have a problem... I took the camper to my friend's farm and he has a 30 amp service set up for his camper so when I went to plug my camper in it trips his 30 amp Shore power service... The weird thing is he also has residential 20 amp 120 plug and I can use an adapter and plug my 30 amp trailer plug into his 120 plug and I have power.. Note: Limited power to my appliances... I've checked all the breakers and I even turned them all off and turned off his 30 amp Shoreline breaker off and plugged into it and tried to turn his breaker on and it will not go on it keeps tripping over and over I'm at a lost of what is wrong and how to fix it any advice would be much appreciated thank you very much!!!
Thanks for this very informative video. I to have plugged into a dirty plug and converter stopped working. Checked the fuses as you introduced and were fine. I just don't understand why the breaker and or the fuses didn't protect the converter? Thanks again for explaining how to diagnose the converter issues!
Circuit breakers and/or fuses ONLY protect wiring. They do not protect equipment. In fact, on the rare occasions that they fail internally but don't properly clear the circuit they can damage the connected equipment by low voltage.
i would like to see a converter opened up! they must have a pretty big transformer, rectifier of some kind and a control board. it would be interesting to see inside one
You nailed it. I tried looking at my RV website and tried to describe the problem. I got nowhere. Your video with the blinking clock on the microwave was my exact situation. I found my converter and yes! I had two blown 35 fuses. Everything works again. Thanks.
My parents bought a RV and the only way their 12 v works is keeping the battery on a charger but all of the 110 works fine with shore power. So with this video I know now know how to chk their converter. Thank you so much for your indepth training.
Have what we think is a converter problem, found your site, showing my husband this video when you moved the ground lug, his comment about you. “This guy has big electrical nuts”. Please interpret that as much respect for your skills! Thank you for all these videos! Wish you were closer!
I'm an RV technician in training and I can't say enough how much I appreciate you taking the time to explain all of this and make these videos.
RUN! Lmao. I started as an RV Tech about 3 years ago and couldn’t find any RUclips videos to help!
I have a lot of background with electricity/electronics and mechanics though so I was able to figure everything out eventually. Now, it’s all so simple.
I been thinking of becoming a rv mobile tech. Do you think it's a good career?
@@camerondierking7644 I been thinking of becoming a rv mobile tech. Do you think it's a good career?
You are a very knowledgeable man you know what you're talking about but please slow down a little bit so that us slower people can understand you better God bless you you're a great help too 👍
@@Furbyking_09 you can always go into your RUclips settings and change the video speed. You don't have to slow it down too much to get the effects you want.
You explain the workings of an rv better than anybody I have seen. For somebody that has never done the things you have done it may be absorbed better if you explained them a little slower. Please do not stop doing your videos because they are more valuable than you know!!!
I keep rewinding or watch over
Awesome video. Because of the whole Covid thing, I've lost my company and my place to live. I was able to find a 1991 Econoline 350 RV for $450, but it's in really bad shape. Mostly water damage. I'm trying to make it livable and I've started by just gutting the whole thing. As I rebuild the cabinets and fixtures, I'll need to do a lot of rewiring. I'm glad I found your channel.
Hope you have bounced back 😊
Thank you, you just saved our lives, it's 107° here in AZ and we only thought there was 1 breaker box outside, unplugged everything and found the breaker box inside and it worked woooohoooo thank you!
Nearly my exact symptoms except batteries were not dead as I have a couple solar panels sending juice to recharge the batteries. But I did notice no working 12V circuitry when plugged to shore power and battery disconnect set to "off". Comprehensible description of the science and & application and some of the perplexing issues such as "Where you might locate the converter". Thanks for going to the trouble of filming-editing-posting videos and sharing your knowledge with us. It sure helps and settles the anxiety in dealing with situations.
the problem alot in RUclips 😢.. is the explaining lack of or people really don't know fully of what there trying to present.. you are most definitely the best at all levels in each video u present.. i appreciate all cuz greatly has helped me .
Firstly thank you.
I would suggest that you dedicate in gradual steps more videos only on electricity in length because. Since you anyway go about it beyond just the fix, no doubt your followers would appreciate your talent for explaining things better than any professor out there.
Hopefully we get that lucky!!
Excellent. Thank you for using laymen terms so we can follow along.
Listen carefully folks...he's right about if you upgrade to AGM batteries you Must change your battery charger to match. We bought an old Class A with a new $350 AGM starter battery that lasted barely more than a year...it would show full voltage but instantly drop to 7 volts when I tried to start the engine. Researching a replacement I learned that things have changed since our class A was built 30 years ago. I've installed a small Optima charger on my dashboard that shows me the condition of my starter battery and not only charges it but reconditions it at various times. Well worth the money. I installed AGM House Batteries that are charged from a new Converter I installed. The original Converter weighed 30 pounds, was always hot to the touch and was really loud 24 hours a day...the new one weighs maybe 4 pounds, is silent, cool to the touch and does tons of things that the old converter couldn't do for my batteries. I installed the new converter floating 4 inches above the floor and several inches from any walls on 2 large L-brackets to facilitate the cooling of the unit.
Ditto....and our replacements were blue tops (painful lesson)
2 battle born bats, 1 go power ic2000 inv/conv/char, go power controller, 2 flex rich 100 watt solar panels, 1 rich 20a MPPT controller, trc surge protector .. u can thank me later ..this is 1 year of full use in camper & hundreds of hours of use after 6 months of initial research b 4 install. PS THIS IS THE BEST ExPLAIN'en LUCY I'VE EVER HEARD damn that was good.
Love your videos, I'm a NRVIA Level 2 RV Inspector and I have learned so much from you
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Incredibly helpful. The fan on the invertor no longer runs to assist with keeping said appliance from getting too warm. I had noticed this at least a year ago and so I've placed a fan down by the appliance as a way to give the cooling effect of the non working fan. So far so good.
I do feel lucky thus far that the appliance hasn't failed. My battery is staying charged, so whether the charger is within the invertor or elsewhere I have no idea but at least the charger does and has kept my battery charged. I don't travel with the RV (1997 Shasta w/small slide out) so I only use one 'flooded' battery for the 12V boards that do the things you spoke about and all those systems do work properly. Of course I now know to operate the slide, if ever I do need to, I'll add a second battery in parrallel to increase amperage for the motors.
I've lived in this RV since November 2015 in Arizona through cold winters and oppresively hot summers.
I don't use my LP gas furnace as the blower fan has a worn bearing that squeals when I try to use it, which I just don't and hav not for several years now. But seeing how easy it is to remove the stove I may attempt to get to the blower motor which is located under the stove.
I've suffered two mild strokes in the past five years, I'm 65 years old and no longer agile, so I don't know if I shall try to fix the blower motor myself or continue to use electric space heaters.
I realize the fire danger of over taxing the shore power and such with space heaters and I know I really need to get things working properly. In particular I should save the money soon to be able to have a invertor on standby for when mine does eventually fail. I rarely use the 12 volt lights, but of course the fridge needs the 12 volts either from my house battery or from the invertor being I'm on shore power.
Same goes for the roof A/C board and when I rarely use the water heater the gas ignitor circuit* needs a working invertor or a charged 12 volt house battery.
*This I knew already.
ALL OF THIS I WROTE ABOUT IS SOMETHING NEWLY LEARNED,
AS I WAS UNAWARE OF MUCH TOO MUCH OBVIOUSLY,
UNTIL I WATCHED THIS VIDEO.
I never knew there are fuses on the converter. I always learn so much watching your videos.
You are a really good teacher and explainer of systems and diagnostics... Kudo's
How do you know it's not 120v fuse in the converter 🙃
Very good explaining each step , easy to follow !! One of the best I've seen - I've been in the electrical industry for 52 yrs.... a joy to watch ......
Thank You! Ever since crooks cut off my catalytic converter and I had a new one welded on, I’ve had nothing but electrical problems! Thanks to your vids, I’m grasping the why and how to fix my issues! Thanks again
Great video and explanation. I just went through this same process of elimination on a 1999 Cedar Creek travel trailer. After all the troubleshooting I found that the AC to DC converter had gone bad. Much simpler fix than replacing the whole power center. Took 15 minute to uninstall the old unit and install the new one. Now everything is working again on both sides (AC/DC) as it should.
I a widow with a dream motorhome....I can only do 1987 Ford cut away and the way you explain has given me great hope I can manage this....thank you so very much!!
Thank you. Have a path to check out issues I'm experiencing
Excellent learning experience. This will help me tremendously trouble shooting my electric problem on my slide in truck camper
Great video!! I had a problem finding the converter until this video!!
Your videos are excellent. I am now confident talking to service technicians. Watching your content help 💯 my understanding of how electricity works in my RV.
Hi Darren, thanks for helping me so many times. I do have a conundrum that I hope you can explain. Three things happened when I plugged in to shore power at a park. The fuse on my fridge blew, my electric element for my fridge also quit, and the high limit thermostat on my electric side of my water heater tripped, and my converter quit charging. I’m thinking this wasn’t all coincidence but I’m not sure. We changed locations in the park. I ordered and replaced the converter/ charger. In the mean time,I charged the batteries with our jeep. I changed the fuse in the fridge and , thanks to you, tested the electric element and it is bad but the propane side works fine. I will replace that when we get home. Next ,I reset the limit switch on the water heater and it worked fine for aa couple weeks and then quit. We have since been using the propane to heat the water. When I get home to,or row I will begin the recovery from vacation breakdown. What would cause the refrigerator fuse to blow? Bad shore power? Heating element? Also the water heater , from the bad power. I never lost my 12 volt ,just the charger and I assume that was the bad power...... lastly can you explain exactly what bad power is and how I can avoid it in the future...... this put a real damper on our vacation but at least I am able to fix a lot of stuff myself.... thanks a lot Darren.
Hey Darren, I began to replace the electric element on th fridge today. The element has welded itself to the tube and I can’t get it loose. Have been saturating it with liquid wrench. It feels like it is going to break off before it comes out. I guess if that happens I’ll need to remove the fridge for access to that tube. Any suggestions?
Hi Augie,
Your question has been selected for an upcoming video where it will be read and discussed by Darren - Certified RV Tech and online personality for the 'My RV Works' videos.
If you have not already subscribed to the 'My RV Works' RUclips channel, please do so and keep a watch for the ‘RV Tech Talk’ video releases. This series is a selection of comments and questions that will be covered and released weekly.
Here is our RUclips link: ruclips.net/user/myrvworksinc
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
You got super lucky. Every time I have wanted to access something under the cook stove there has been floor in the cabinet under the stove. Better go buy that lottery ticket. Good job, as always Darren
Yea, you’re a TEACHER! Nice explanation of the problem. The only thing makes me fun (or, honestly, sad...) is the design of the coach: to pull out two pounds electrical box you need to disconnect LP lines and pull out 25 pounds box! I gonna fire the designer: he doesn’t care about maintenance cost of the product he did at all.
Know you probably won’t see this cause this video is from a year ago but thank you for this very informative video. Especially the part about different types of batteries will need different types of converters/chargers. Cause I am needing to replace my water filled battery and was considering a sealed type battery. Thanks again. 👍👍
Thank you for this video. Iam a technician helping a friend with his refridgerator and this video answered everything. He is running on A/c only with no batteries and his fridge keeps cutting out, but when I hit the water pump or the slide out it will kick the fridge back on. Well you just made me realize why.. His converter is bad and Im guessing that its over charging hitting the slide out is pulling such a load that its dropping it down enough to alow it back on.. Im pretty sure the diodes are bad in the converter because I was picking up quite a bit A/C voltage at the dc leads and fuses.
Thank you very much!!
This was exactly my issue. Some AC outlets working, but no fridge, furnace, lights. Bought a voltage meter, did the diagnostics. A bad converter. Purchased a new converter, and installed it within an hour. Thanks for the help.
I hope you teach new RV tech's.. You know how better than most. Best wishes and thanks for the tips.
You are a lifesaver. I have a 2020 South Fork that had some of the outlets go off during a storm. Thanks for guiding through the location of the fuses. Even the stupid place I bought it from couldn't help me unless I paid for a tech. $3.00 and I am up and running again!!! :)
Watched a couple of videos. Tested the out let it was reporting strong......however, it was a 20 volt sideways prong. The prong reciver inside the out let had bent and was not Making connection. Replaced outlet and saved money on the converter.....thank you again for explaining to start at the source and complete all tests. Troubleshooting isn't for the quick crowd....slow down and save. I also noticed that when I unplugged and plugged into outlet lights and converter would come alive for about 3 seconds. Started tinkering and then confirmed outlet fail.
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. I used this video to diagnose and replace my converter last weekend... project went smooth as butter 🧈.
Outstanding videos - like the fact you jump right into a task as we would and find out and resolve issues as you move forward-real world videos -
Remember to use your batt disconnect switch to turn off the battery connection before doing this job. Also, the batteries in this video are probably not going to come back to life if they're reading an absolute zero voltage.
Thanks for the info especially if you are changing your battery type from liquid to AGM sealed. Changing the converter doesn't look too bad depending where it is located.
Thanks for sharing your expertise. I’m refurbishing a ‘94 Oshkosh Sahara Diesel pusher. These videos are very helpful. I’m a novice when it comes to RV electrical. Thank you very much. I’m going to test my converter next
Hey Darren, enjoy the channel you’re the best. As a career Marine tech if this were a boat, I may have load tested the outlet for the converter. Sometimes you can even smell if the converter is burned up. You know before you do the test but you have to do the test. Great channel. I try to learn something every day.
Hey Darren, I just discovered your channel and I live in Agnew! We're practically neighbors man! I had an interesting thing happen last week, my mom called and said she could smell something hot like wire burning. I went over there to take a look. I started with power to my shop from the meter base, then to the 100 amp panel I upgraded in there a couple of years ago ...240 so far so good, then at the 70 amp pedestal. Still ok at 240 Then Inside the 40 ft park model I had 240 at the 50 amp main, and even intermittent 120 at some of the breakers, however it would change every time I put my Fluke meter on it, sometimes the power out on the breakers would go from 120 to 90 and then to 180 and all over the place. Long story short, the 50 amp shore power cord which is a twist lock on the outside of the trailer trailer had worked its way counterclockwise and therefore the neutral was barely connected, so the circuit was trying to use one or both of the hot wires to complete the circuit back to the substation instead of using the Neutral. Needless to say we had to buy a new tv for her, those new tv's don't like 180.
I'm currently trying to locate a new converter for a lady that works for me, her and her husband live in a fifth wheel and they lost all 12v power, they don't currently have batteries hooked up in the trailer, which I heard can be bad as the charger doesn't have any resistance load to work against. Anyway, I'm having trouble locating the exact unit. Its a 2007 trailer with a model 555 Parallax Converter-charger. It looks like, as I am in the middle of the research phase of this issue, that a Parallax 5355 is a really close match not only in features but the size as well. Thoughts? Maybe one day we will run into each other, I stay in my trailer 3 nights a week in Forks, and besides my mom's trailer I also have my Aunt on our property in her own 40 ft fifth wheel, and then across the street my other Aunt is in her own 40 ft fifth wheel. So as you can imagine I am always doing something on these trailers. Maybe I should go watch your video on becoming an rv repair business. But that would be in another 10 years after I retire. :)
THANK YOU, I really appreciate the analogies that you use it helps to UNDERSTAND what is happening behind the panel. Great videos, appreciate you
Wow! Really good videos. I've been thinking about a project that would require me to temporarily remove my range. and thinking, and thinking and thinking I don't really want to remove it... well guess what I just found out? Six(ish) screws and couple wrenches. I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow. Thanks (i think) for the info. Please keep doing these videos. You are by far and away the best resource for this sort of stuff on RUclips.
I have learned more in this video than all the videos combined. Thank you!
Great to hear! Thank you.
thank you you make it so easy to understand the converter and AC & DC POWER
Thank you...I've been having issue with exact issue you describe. Your trouble shooting was excellent
Thank you for explaining and demonstrating changing the converter. Sadly our converter and panel are one unit. So the repair will involve reconnecting every wire for the breakers and fuses. I know our trailer was cheap but the design caused lots of extra expense.
When we come across that in the field, we orphan the existing converter in place and install/wire a new standalone converter behind the panel. Check our playlist, we have video showing this procedure
Good video. I’m familiar with RV and electrical systems. I’m a retired industrial maintenance technician. Good explanation for the lay person. Glad to see how easy the range removes for future reference. Thanks for the info 😊
Fantastic tutorial! I’m having awning problems and your video may have saved me a lot of money and frustration. Thanks!
So if the batteries are dead; doesn't that mean they need to get new batteries? Cause the batteries will not come back to 100%. I wanted to say that your videos are so helpful. I was thinking of putting AGM's in to replace the cheap Wally Mart batteries that are there and now I better not do this because of the charging profile. Thanks for the tip.
I was wondering the same thing. I know that usually, if a battery is run down all the way, it will cause permanent damage, resulting in the battery not taking a complete charge or not holding a charge.
Great videos. Thanks for taking the time to record and produce these videos!
I love your videos Im 19 I got my first travel trailer I live in and you have taught me a lot I never would have known 👍
Hi Darren great video. I'm very familiar with Carlsborg. My Sprinter based MH got left unplugged for a couple weeks and when I went to use it I no 12v lights. I plugged into shore power and my battery meter said I had 94%. It continued to drop as I charged it.12v lights work on shore. Now after a weekend trip it's at zero after being plugged in overnight. I'm sure unrelated but I don't have tail lights either. Gotta love RVs, but makes work for you. Cheers
At some place on the fuse panel i have 13.6 and other 12.9
got 13.6 at the connection of the awning outside even if the fuse is out and the motor wont run but it run ok on other circuit 🤪
Thanks for all your videos very long and good explanation
hello enjoy watching your video's . I trying to learn as much as I can. My wife and I are still trying to get our first motorhome.
Thank you so much for sharing knowledge.
Dealing with this camping this weekend. Fortunately I had an old school battery charger.. 2 10 and 50 amp start selection switch. Hooked it up to the battery and will at least get to deal with this at home over the week.
Just 2 things that I want to add:
1. 120v might be present at the outlet, but if the wire is frayed when you try to draw amps it can't push them through. Rare, but I've seen it.
2. An open wire will not trip a fuse or breaker. You can have a bad wire still between the converter and the battery. If the wire isn't making contact with a ground the fuse/breaker will not blow
i have to say...this video save me $$$ from taking my airstream to the dealer. Could not find the short on my fantastic fan, thermostat and ac unit all 3 did not work, AC work just fine but your explanantion about this boards needing their 12 volts to make their circuits work. My batteries showed good voltage but their capacity was only 9%. bad batteries. Now it makes sense. they would work intermittently. Thanks for the video explanation.
You explained it so completely I totally understand it now! I have been waiting for my sons to find time in their schedules to come over and look at it. But I change out my own lights I have put up fans I have done so much on my own I really think that I can do this myself. Thank you so much
This video was amazing! It’s exactly what I needed to know and he explains everything at a level anyone can understand.
Thank you for this video! I learned a lot here. We have been having batt discharge constantly. I did check the readings on my meter and they are perfect and the fuses are good so I believe the converter is good. Still have to charge the batt every couple months though. ????? By the way I found the converter in the back of the rig in the storage bay. everything else is mid rig.
Our 2004 National Seabreeze LX has converter, inverter, and BCC all accessible from exterior basement door to right of coach steps/exterior door. No internal access, and exposed to luggage, etc... FYI.
You have been the only one I’ve seen to explain that the air conditioner needs 12 volts. As does the water heaters pilot light if running on propane. I also found out that when the battery is low and the air conditioner is running and you flip a dc switch the air conditioner shuts off. Thought there was something real bad wrong.
THAT WAS AN EXCELLENT VIDEO AND EXPLANATION. THANK YOU NOW I HAVE TO CHECK MY DAUGHTER CONVERTER sorry for the caps.
Great video very helpful. Did notice the owner put holes in the wood behind the stove to hold knives in
Place, but alot of us put our knives away wet which would put water in with the wires and converter area. I am pretty sure electric and water means TROUBLE.
Hi Darren, A friend has a hot skin condition (62v) to ground and we have isolated to a single circuit. The hot skin disappears when a breaker is turned off. My EMS proved the pedestal and dog bone is good, (50a stepped down to 30).
I had that same setup as far as the access.
I took the fence/grid off and put a air vent register cover...mounted on outside..two thumb screws....and I can access the converter very easy access now
Great tip!
Exactly... I had no idea how easy it is to pull the stove! My converter is in a different place though. Very helpful. Already subscribed.
Awesome video! I'm in an older RV and my breaker kept tripping the other day and the last time we reset it, there was a loud buzzing/electrical noise I've never hear before and it tripped the breaker, I've been scared to try to rest it again. Is it my converter? My converter is right behind the fuse panel, wasn't sure if it was breaker or the converter. And what does plugging into "dirty power" mean?
Sir, I thank you now I know why my light's are dim but most of the item's work in my fifth wheel.
Lol. Th life of an RV technician. I did my homework as Darren suggested. So I tightened up all the live on both AC and D.C. Side of the panel... I did use an inch pounds torque screwdriver. It is the t-handle design. But if the bus bars are close to the floor it makes the handle hard to turn when the "T" bumps the floor. All the screws were below torque.
Hi Pilot Nelson,
Wow, thanks for sharing your findings!
We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
Darren I just realized that you were the guy that worked on a friends super nice fifth wheel that is being stored on our property a couple of weeks ago, its got 5 slides. Sorry I wasn't there to meet you. Maybe next time. I am definitely going to add you to my contacts for future help when I can't quite figure out something.
Love how thorough you are .
I need help this is where I live
I have no air no plug in that work no lights no nothing
Can't thank you enough for sharing all your expert experience!
Do a video when the converter is working and your batteries are charged and you still have no 12v lights or any brains working with no blown fuses and out of storage mode. You do the best videos. People don't under stand that the storage button or switch runs a relay that can go bad also. Its the latching relays or solenoid.
I appreciate the video! I did know how easy it is to take out a stove as I just removed mine a few weeks ago. The area below the stove in mine was not as clean as your customer's was.
You do an amazing job of making a novice like myself understand - THANK YOU! The only thing working on my tt is the microwave so this video is UBER important to me!
A twofer! Learned how to remove a stove too! Thanks.
Have you ever relocated the convertor? Seems to me that the closer it is to the battery, it would be more efficient.
Ideally, a shorter run would be better, but that is rare on many layouts. As long as the wire gauging and connectors are proper, there will not be any noticeable difference in performance.
12v is in efficient in transportation of power, however this is most noticed over larger distances. There will be no noticeable difference in an RV.
Great Video! I loved the explanations.
Also, encourage your viewers with 199x trailers to change those DC converters. Mine started to catch my camper on fire by slow-burning through the floor. AND... We all love those stupid Proane / CO detectors. But they're only supposed to be good for 5-7 years. Change them.
Thanks I should be able to at least diagnose the problem with your instructive video. Ancillary question where did you get your kneepads and what are they called? Can’t seem to find a decent pair of kneepads. Thanks
click on his name, you can buy any tools you want in his list of tools
I’ve had a couple of occasions where the fuse looked good to the naked eye, but was in fact compromised. Did you consider double checking them with your meter before declaring converter dead at scene? Good vid! Thanks!!!
With some fuses, that's a possibility. A hairline crack in the metal. The little glass fuses in cars could be blown at the ends where it is not visible. A continuity check would verify if the fuse is good.
Think I may have a converter issue so will check for proper voltage as you have described.
Great video as I have come to expect from you! :) I would like your opinion on plus's and minus's of two options I have on my converter replacement project. Here goes...I want to replace my (brand new) converter/charger (single stage charger) with a Multi-stage charger in order to better maintain my battery bank. It would also be an increase from 55 to 70 amp so I will be changing out the existing cables going to the battery. I was thinking about the option of leaving the existing converter/charger alone( except removing the battery wires) and just adding the new converter/charger at a location near the Battery bank. Your thoughts?
Thanks! and thanks for all you do for all of us!
Great videos! Have a puzzling question...Have you ever heard of surge protectors showing reverse polarity only when items plugged into outlets while connected to shore power? Items still powered up and work and the reverse polarity indicator goes back to green when items unplugged or turned off. Surge protector was clear to go before we plugged into the trailer and is fine with lights, USB ports, stove fans etc, just not outlets. We are using a 15AMP adapter for our 30AMP power cord (25ft). I asked my rv dealer (never heard of it and told me to get a new surge protector even though is only a year old) and looking all over the web but can't seem to find any like situations. I tried all outlets and different items, only the phone charger and nightlight didn't cause a shift in surge protector lights. Any insight as where to begin would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
I really like your video, now I understand more how the RV electrical sistem works and how to do trouble shooting in RVs, I'm an residential commercial electrician but we never finish learning, I have a friend that he have electrical problems with his RV, the lights and frige flicks and I figures it out that ofcourse it was something with the 12 volt sistem but I didn't know where and now watching this video it may be the convertor, or if you have another idea or place to chek his problem please let me know thanks.
Thank you so much for this wonderful video. It truly helped me understand things from the best perspective and that’s straight facts! After thousands of videos, I watched I now understand how my converter works. God bless your heart.
My girlfriends AC (both units) Just quit. We shut it off for the weekend when we came back we flipped the Thermostat on and no start. The Thermostat still has the digital readout. Her brother said it may be the thermostat as no breakers are tripped or fuses blown. She also noticed one side of the freezer not freezing as it was. No 115 breakers are tripped though the fuse panel has red led lights lit which I dont know what that means. Looking for the manuals now. So I am looking for the converter to check the output or if it has a blown fuse. This video is very helpful
Those air conditioners and the refrigerator all have 12 volt brains. So if they all died at the same time, it's very likely to be a 12 volt DC problem. If I understand your question, the red lights in the fuse panel indicate that the fuse is blown. So you might want to start there. Good luck.
@@MyRVWorks So it started working all by itself. I am wondering if the park lost power and the battery voltage dropped below 10.5 volts. The lights in the trailer worked ok though but I was told that if the ac or refrigeration does not have at least 10.5 volts they wont work
Thanks have a few more to watch to find the problem of ours before dragging it 60 mile north for the warranty fix. :)
Thanks for your input and thanks for the info on the high-flow regulators. Always good information.
Ive made a 120v outlet plug for an up graded converter with new lithium batteries. My question is, when i installed the new converter I put the ground wire only in AC shore power outlet. Im sure this was the right thing to do, but! There ground lug or ground on my converter box itself has no ground to save the day. So where exactly do i add a ground to my new converter to my DC power panel? Or do i even need a ground on my converter? So far I haven’t found an answer on the Internet. I watch your videos to fix my RV alot! Really great stuff!🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
To add: my old converter had three wires green was ground white is positive black negative, this was all connected to shore power. So i made the 120v outlet plug from these. And of course it had a positive and negative wires to battery. But it didn’t have an extra ground wire on the DC side. Hope that makes sense. So just wondering if the new converter requires me to add a ground wire to the box to my panel if so where would it go? To reiterate haha
Darin, absolutely love your stuff. I've learned so much from watching multiple vids. I'm looking for any video you did on 'dirty shore power'. I just had to replace my breaker panel (with converter - all one unit) because I was getting the AC side but house battery was dying. Everything worked again initally but two days later (running off grid off of my inverter generator), I got the same problem again. My generator is not charging my house battery as evidenced directly with my multi-meter on the battery. However, when I got to a campground and plugged into 'real' pedistal shore power, everything is working great and my battery shows over 13 volts while charging. I think I need to test my generator voltage that it's putting out. Any videos on bad generator / shore power?
???I have a brand new camper. They didnt put the top on my battery, the 1st week it was parked at my house, it rained. The battery compartement filled with water. I took the camper for a ride. When i came back home, i plugged into house. 3 days later all DC power was gone. Could the battery being in water have killed the converter? BTW I am a 50 year old woman and I feel like an expert after watching your video it was very very instructive thank you
Great Camera work, and as always, tutorial explanation. Thanks.
If you were thinking about adding Solar, and you happened to also be replacing your floors, so you have the whole thing gutted, 1) what prep would you do while nothing's in it to set yourself up for success if you're going to do it later and 2) would you run with some sort of combination of existing stuff/ house battery with new stuff or would you replace 1 with the other?
Great video thank you for your knowledge it's much appreciated!!! I have a problem I've been trying to solve I just bought a 2009 Skyline Nomad model 326 with 30 amp service.. I have a problem... I took the camper to my friend's farm and he has a 30 amp service set up for his camper so when I went to plug my camper in it trips his 30 amp Shore power service... The weird thing is he also has residential 20 amp 120 plug and I can use an adapter and plug my 30 amp trailer plug into his 120 plug and I have power.. Note: Limited power to my appliances... I've checked all the breakers and I even turned them all off and turned off his 30 amp Shoreline breaker off and plugged into it and tried to turn his breaker on and it will not go on it keeps tripping over and over I'm at a lost of what is wrong and how to fix it any advice would be much appreciated thank you very much!!!
Nice video, Part of the troubleshooting would be do your DC items work when hooked up to vehicle.
Great video thanks again for all your great info. I'm a graduate from RVTI school in Indiana but I'm learning more from you thanks again
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for this very informative video. I to have plugged into a dirty plug and converter stopped working. Checked the fuses as you introduced and were fine. I just don't understand why the breaker and or the fuses didn't protect the converter? Thanks again for explaining how to diagnose the converter issues!
Circuit breakers and/or fuses ONLY protect wiring. They do not protect equipment. In fact, on the rare occasions that they fail internally but don't properly clear the circuit they can damage the connected equipment by low voltage.
i would like to see a converter opened up! they must have a pretty big transformer, rectifier of some kind and a control board. it would be interesting to see inside one
Great teacher. I need to check my connection from my shore cord outlet to my breaker box. Any videos on that process?