How To Diagnose And Replace An RV Refrigerator Heating Element
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2024
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Certified Mobile RV Technician, Darren Koepp, walks you through how to diagnose and replace a failed heating element in an RV refrigerator.
If you are in need of RV Repairs in the Olympic Peninsula area of Washington state, submit a service request on our website at myrvworks.com today!
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THANK YOU!!!! I followed your instructions and went step by step... replaced the fuse and heating element.. it only cost me $25 .... you saved my camping trip!!!
I often go to you tube videos for tips on any given subject. The problem is most people want to hear themselves talk. I like when they get down to business. That is EXACTLY what you did here. All great info. No fluff No nonsense. I have been troubleshooting machines for 43 years. You did this exactly as I would have. But I had no idea how to remove and replace the element. You made this so a pro or a novice could do it. Hats off to you! I will be following you from now on in my RV adventures. Well done.
Thank you!!! This video was a step by step fix. Greatly appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience. This improved the camping trip immensely!!!
Thank your for this to the point instructional video. I quickly diagnosed that my heating element was bad and replaced it to repair my old refer. I had a hard time getting the old one out, it was seized like yours but once it started moving it did not come out easy. Multiple applications of WD40 and persistence did the trick. By the way, WD40 is flammable, keep a close eye on things when you turn the refer back on!
Hello Darren. Thanks for your time and effort for doing these videos. I’m fresh out of college completing my level 1 RV tech and your videos are excellent for me continuing learning.
F.
Nice job explaining, as you always do! I replaced ine due to a leak, but started gutting the old one for future spare parts. My 120V came out pretty easy, but had to blast, wiggle, blast, hammer tap etc, to get the 12V out.
After watching this like 5 times while waiting for our 325w 120v heating element to come AND the clamp meter (we had the Regular Multi-Meter) we did THIS job today.
The ONLY problem we had that yours DIDN’T have was it had a piece of aluminum square around the elbow to seal the part better that came out to the wire connections that wouldn’t let you slid the element all the way up.
So we slid it back down, cut it to the inner circle, opened it up, slid it off, Then lifted it out (installed it on the New one after sliding it all the way down… 👨🔧 Other than that, it was the Same Simple process that You showed us…!!! ✅👍👏👌😎🥳
As others have said your lessons are great. But what I REALLY appreciate is the video production value. You use tripods, good lighting and even where a microphone for great and clear sound. End the editing is great too. I am in the broadcast TV field and these really stand out above the crowd. Keep it up!
Just getting into the business and it’s helpful to see what I’m up against! Great videos with good tech details, thanks!
Well Done! The presenter is knowledgable and thorough.
Awesome video, my fridge is working again! The new heating element is smoking a little bit, I see on forums other people have experienced this as well. Keeping a close eye on it to see if its stuff from the factory burning off. (Or the small amount of wd40 i had to use to get the old element out)
Thanks, very helpful as I am trying to resolve an issue with my Dometic RMS8550 that is not working on either 230v or 12v.
Just replaced my heating element. My fridge was only working on propane. This was the solution! Thank you so much for this!
Excellent work! You are now my go to channel for all RV related repair issues…which can be A LOT!! thanks for your care for the RV community!
Thanks! We hope our videos will help! We also go live the first Friday of every month at 4:30 PM PST to answer viewer questions!
A stellar video, especially compared to so many out there. I've been building and fixing things all my life, and spent my career doing design and build electrical construction - so I get it - you cover all the bases of the subject AND manage to do it with clear camera work that doesn't need a barf bag. =}) I only wish that your business and I lived closer together !! Please keep up the great work.
I just discovered a trick to help get mine element loose I slid a box end wrench over the wires and used it for leverage to rock it back and forth! Worked like a charm!!
Thanks for the tip.
Darren, you do such a great job with your videos. Clear, quick, concise, easy to follow. Nice job! For my Dometic fridge, it seems to work on both gas and electric but it just doesn't get as cold as it should. Any recommendations? I have already replaced the thermistor (bought a brand new one and fished the cable through the grommet down to the motherboard) and moved it to the top of the fin thinking that might help but no luck. I know they sell those variable thermistors/thermostats but not sure if that would help or not. I have a little USB fan inside the fridge but for whatever reason, I just can't get the temperature down to where it needs to be. It's cool, just not cold. Thoughts? Recommendations? Thanks!
I want to add my thanks. You have helped so many of us who are on a fixed income and have to watch every penny. I joined your Patreon at the 15.00 level I will not be able to stay with it but want to repay you something.
Thank you very much for this video! I was able to replace my heating element myself! I had to use a rubber mallet after speaking almost while bottle of on, but I got it! Do you have a video on gas valve solenoid replacement on Dominic fridge?
You are so helpful. Your explanations along with the great camera angles really show how to do this. Thank you.
Great Vid...I had already removed and changed the element but the wires were coloured on the replacement...The original one I took off had the same coloured wires so I was looking for info to give me peace of mind about polarity of the cables not making any difference...Thank you for confirming what I wanted to check....Works a treat now!
You sir, are absolutely a ROCK STAR!! Not only have you given me the confidence to repair my own fridge, but you have saved me so much money on labor, that I can actually afford to fix it! Thank you, a million times, thank you!
So true
Surprisingly, My element checked right at 44 ohms, but wasn't heating. I checked the controller heating element terminals and they were putting out 120 VAC. I hooked up the element and it immediately started heating up. I have worked with electrical circuits since 1980 and it never ceases to amaze me how often a poor electrical connection can be fixed by merely unplugging and re-seating connectors. Once the element started heating again, the fridge started cooling again. Lucky me! I think that I would have cleaned that rust off the element with a scratch pad before reinstalling it.
We’re you getting 120 from both heating element terminals or just one
@@bigdogrobbiet Reading across both terminals was 120 VAC.
Thanks Darrin. Great vids, very helpful. And easy to follow.
Best instructor I have seen
I found your page and was able to diagnose and fix my fridge! Thank you so much!!
I just took an electric pencil soldering iron and jammed it in the hole that I took the heater out of and plugged it in 120 V and it works beautifully.
From one Darren to another Darren,thank you.
Great video! Super helpful! I also found the service manuals on your website super handy too! Thank you!
Great video that helped me determine the ac heating element was open. I purchased a new one that looks to be an exact match. Although the bad one was a little difficult to remove, the new one is extremely difficult to install. After about 2 hours of wiggling back and forth and applying downward pressure, I was only able to get it about half way inserted. Any tips on freeing it up to get it the rest. Of the way installed?
Thank you for your excellent videos! I followed the steps in your diagnosing lower control board video on 2862 fridge that was working on lp only then stopped working altogether. Replaced the lower control board and we're back to working on lp only. Have 120V AC on the board, fuse is good but nothing on the leads to the heating element. Checked the heating element per this video and get 48ohms (It's a 325W element). Very frustrated - what else should be checked?
Can’t see where you plugged into the board! Never mind I will know from the old ones! Thank you so much
Darren
Thank you for the video. You covered every step to diagnosis and replace electric heating element. Please if you can answer my question. Is it possible to change the housing tube of electric heating element of Dometic refrigerator. My housing is melted through 1” from the bottom. What would cause the element to overheat and damage the tube it is housed in?
Thank you
Thanks great job. I wish I had the room you do to remove the heating element when I needed to on my 1999 Kountry Komfprt TT a few years back.
I agree, I use this as my stunt refrigerator. It's in one of my older RVs that we own. It's great for making videos. You'll notice it in an upcoming video on very detailed LP inspection. Most times, to pull the heating element, I do need to move the refrigerator forward about 6" just to gain access. Not too big of a deal but it is a hassle. Thanks for watching, happy camping.
Thank you! Your videos have help me a lot
Great vid., easy to follow. Keeping item in discussion in full view with camera. So visual good, & audio loud & clear as well. thanx.
great. you explain the little things that everyone else in trouble. keep doing it that explain the simple obvious things, I like how you pretend it was bad heating element and showed hw the multimeter read it that way.
FYI! Make sure it’s completely cooled off before you used PB Blast or any petroleum or flammable oil, I got the “steam “ also and it’s not steam, it’s burning oil and caused a small fire.
Very helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for the video, helped me diagnose my issue that I couldn't figure out.
This is a very helpful video tutorial. Thanks. I ran on ohms test on our. Everything pointed to the heating element. The heating element in our Dometic 2510 came out easily. I ordered a replacement yet noticed the new part was much longer and was stamped 325 watts whereas the original is stamped 185 watts. I'm ready to send the replacement element back. Would it be prudent and safe to use this longer and higher wattage element? Finding the exact 185 watt replacement is double the cost of the 325 watt model. Thanks for your response.
1st off I'm not Darren but I'm just a technician according to the dometic part manual that heater for your unit is 120 volt 185 watt part #3850644505 for the RM2510.I would definitely not recommend using the higher wattage unit you have that could lead to some serious problems down the road. Please refer to the tech manual for the RM2510 if you have any further questions and suggest again that you get the right unit and not trying use the incorrect higher wattage unit. If you're not sure what you're doing contact a mobile tech.
pilot nelson could you help me with a question? My 5A fuse keeps blowing. My heating element has 44 ohm spec and I’m getting a reading of 37.4. Does it seem like that’s the problem? Trying to determine if it’s the heating element or the circuit board. Gas works fine by the way 🤷🏻♂️
@@jrmcginl Others (especially Darren, please chime in with your thoughts...) The Dometic 44 ohm 120v heater has a range of +/- 10% off the top of my head... 44 - 10% is 39.6 ohms. At 37.4 ohms the element is -15%. That's out of range. The amp draw (this is a guesstimate because I'm not looking at metered results) may be getting close to the limitation of the fuse when other loads are being placed on the unit. At approximately 120v / 37.4 ohms, the element is drawing 3.2 amps. That fuse is designed to protect the rest of the circuit it is on from high loads. Also, remove all voltage *turn off the power AC and DC, then carefully clean the board and ensure that there are no signs of a resistor being overheated or a crack in the board. Loose terminals on the board to element spades can also cause undo amps and heat resulting in popping that fuse. Hope to hear back from you and others on what it is/might be. ON a side note, I'd like to thank Darren and his family for this excellent website on RV service and maintenance!
Awesome dude, awesome vid. Thanks very much!
Hi Darren thanks for that Brest video my question is what about if the ohms reading is out of Spec does IT mean the element is send a message ton the board that something wrong so switch to lp Hi change the board but still no ac
There is no 'communication' between the heating elements and the board. The board has a relay that closes and sends line voltage to the heating element. How much current passes through the heating element is a function of resistance in the heating element. The relay is either open or closed and the heating element is either on or off there is no high temp low temp. The purpose of the heating element is to create a set amount of heat in the boiler to start The Distillery process. Think of it as your toaster oven. The heating element in your toaster oven glows red hot. What determines warm bread from burned bread is the amount of time that heating element is on.
Thanks for your videos, my question If the resistance reading is much lower, say 38 and should be 44, should you replace the unit
I did a reading on mine and it was 37.8 ohms. Did you ever end up replacing it or resolve your issue?
I am going to replace it tomorrow
Very informative,Thanks
Thank you! Excellent video. So hard to find good content like this. All the other content creators end up having a blown AC fuse and their video ends there.
Great video
Darren thank you for your informative videos, Question for you, I have a 2015 Navion with Norcold N3150 Refridgerator, what are your thoughts on installing an ARP control on the boiler tube? going through your videos I don't see anywhere you talk about that protection, is it even necessary on my refrigerator? i can't find any info on what my particular refrigerator has for boiler protection......... appreciate any advice
Thank you so much! That fixed it and saved a big headache
Thank you for this video, I have been trying to figure out how to replace my heating element since it's bad and now I can tomorrow when the new one arrives. :-)
Very helpful video thank you.
thank you very informative
Great job!
Hi C Butler,
We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
Ty for actually showing me
Great stuff!
Great video. I tried all the tests. My heating element is working, and the gas units also works. No leaks or signs of leaks. Did the disconnect on the thermistor, but the unit on runs for 20 seconds or so, then turns off for a minute, then the repeats. (I can hear the fan). Thoughts?
perfect it helped a lot to repair mine thanks
You're the reason I do this. Thanks for watching and glad I was able to help you. Happy camping!
Thank you so much, this really helped !!!
Glad to find your videos. Very informative. Wish you were close to the RV I’m working on.
Maybe one day! We've got this crazy idea of offering an augmented reality (AR) repair experience. 🤓
You seem to be one of the smartest Fellers on here about the Dometic refrigerator. I followed your advice and check things. And I think I figured out that I have a bad computer board in the refrigerator. But as I was doing so I noticed one thing that I don't understand I can't find a thermal coupler anywhere for the gas ignition setup a change the igniter thinking there might be one in there did not see it I'm guessing that's normal because if it works fine now that I put in a new ignitor. My electric still don't work because I haven't bought a board yet do all frigerators have to have a thermal coupler on them to work parently not my don't
Should the heating element be dry or wet at all once you get it out?
Excellent. Thanks! 😀
Thank you!!
So what are the symptoms of a failed heating element? Is it just that the fridge won't get cold?
Would you know which heater a dometic ndr1062 uses. I looked on your web site and didn't see that one listed.
Hi Rick,
Here is one on Amazon: amzn.to/2WG2sND
Cheers,
Darren
I accessed the board and the fuse was blown. I replaced that, and the refer still would not work on electric. When I tested the post that the heating element wires plug into, one read 65 and the other read 120, when I switched the probes side to side. Is that normal? I also tested the heating element wires and am getting 0 ohms. Thoughts?
I had to replace my thermfuse. Can you do a video on that? Plus replace the reset button. Can't remember how to install. Greatly appreciated. I live in the middle of nowhere and trying to get some one is like pulling teeth
I have a dometic rv frig.. The thermo fuze (reset-able) on the side of the boiler shielding keeps kicking out.. What temp is it suppose to kick out at? Mine keeps kicking out after it runs about 30 minutes and reaches a temp of 420 F.. Would this indicate that the flue is plugged or?? Thanks..
Thank You
Thank you
On my Lance camper refrigerator I had the screen fail. As a result mice got in. So I pulled the cap and the screen flange. The chimney was intentionally obstructed by a factory installed sheet sheet metal panel. I removed it and used it to cover the gap between the refrigerator and the cabinet as you showed in one of your videos. Was this a mistake?
Could you make a vid on why I need a heating element on my refridge ..? Or how the propane part makes cold air thanks..!
I understand your question, when I first started working on these things I never understood how heat was going to make things cold. Since I've studied these systems in depth it all makes sense to me now. I try to cover a lot of that in my other videos. Basically you're making a Distillery and the relationship between the ammonia and hydrogen creates rapid evaporation which is where you get the cooling from. Specifically the heat is used to create steam from the water ammonia mixture and then the ammonia is distilled out of the water. Here's a link to my refrigerator playlist, you can watch a few of those and learn more about how the process works. Happy camping thanks for watching. ruclips.net/p/PLk44vSl27TRBtE1CmMkPb02ayS5H1sKbB
Ok thanks !
I was using your playlist , then refridges , only 5 or 6vids there ..
Darren, is there insulation between the heating element and the safety’s with in the boiler? Mine is tripping the reset button on gas or 120v. It just started doing this.
Using an IR thermometer it’s getting to about 310°f right at the base of the switch but only an inch away the temp is only 160°f. If there is insulation inside is it possible it degraded and is causing that one spot to get too hot?
It’s a Dometic RM2852.
I have a heating element in a Norcold that also needs to be replaced but, I couldn’t remove it. It seems as though mine is probably rusted in place, too. I tried different penetrants as you have to free it up but no luck. Any other tricks up your sleeves? Surely, you have a special tool of some sort !!!
Hi Robb,
These heating elements are a Pain some times. I have always had good success with PB Blaster and time. Saturate the sleeve and let it sit for a while and keep spraying it. Wiggle,wiggle, wiggle the probe and it usually works free, gotta hold your mouth just right too, LOL.
Good luck!
Cheers,
Darren Koepp
My RV Works, Inc. Darren, thank you for the encouragement to not give up. While the RV is in another state, I was thinking about pulling the unit out to get more leverage on the heating element. But now, I will really soak it and see if I can get it to move. Thank you for your professional guidance in helping me to get the RV refrigerator working again. I’ll try changing the position of my mouth, too !!!
@@hatteraslabuf There have been some refrigerators I have had to scooch the frig forward a bit to gain access to the heating elements. Usually two screws in the back and on the inside there will be a few along the top and bottom. That is it. The LP line usually has a bit of slack to allow a few inches of forward movement so you do not need to mess with that but you will know when you get there if it will.
I talk a bit about heating elements on this video too: ruclips.net/video/MWss-_ksh78/видео.html
Good luck!
I am in the same boat; I have been spraying Liquid Wrench penetrating oil for a few days, it still won't budge. I have enough leverage on it to bend the tube that the element sits inside of, if I bend hard enough it would probably break off, so leverage is not a problem. I can't think of any way to get it out without cutting or otherwise damaging that tube, which I am guessing would make electric operation not work no matter what.
How difficult is it to replace that entire tube assembly that the heating element is inside of? I suppose that would require removing the refrigerator from the RV.
Any ideas or tips would be appreciated.
@@markmazzitello4491 I had the same problem on my norcold, its probably 25 years old and was stuck tight. If you can rock the heater back and forth at the bend and I sprayed WD40 in the tube when installing the new one
I tested my heating element and it read 44 ohms, which is correct. Still not getting any heat though... I have power to the front and I hear the relay in the back kick flip when I power on/off. Where should I check next?
Everyone else gets to just replace the element, but mine was rusted and seized near the bottom. When working it free, the bottom inch or so of the tube that holds the rod disintegrated. When I started it back up, I could see red hot glowing element at the bottom. Then the thermofuse tripped.
Is there a way to somehow put a deflector or some other fix that will allow me to not replace the whole unit over an inch of missing tube?
Thank you.
Help! When doing this testing do you have the Fridge on or off from the inside of the RV. I unplugged AC from the back, and it is running on LF. So not sure if I should test it like that, or turn the Fridge off - Thanks!!!
Ok, I realize this is an old video, but I'm hoping Darren or another informed person can help on a dumb question - aside from pulling the wires and verifying the ohms reading, what symptom would be displayed as a result of a bad/failed burner that would have you think to check the burner's resistance? I.e. the burner does not stay lit or cannot fire at all or lights but overheats and trips, or all/any of the above? Currently, my Dometic fridge works on the 110 power but when switched to LP, the burner will fire for about 1-2 seconds and then shut off, not being able to stay lit. The burner replacement suggests that maybe this is the problem. Any thoughts?
What happens if the new heating element begins heating up, but ends up tripping the gfci on the camper or the breaker if plugged into another outlet? Is that a bad heating element: ground issue or drawing too much current?
I have the same issue, did you end up finding a solution?
@@juliefaro6027 Yes, I returned the heating element and they sent me a new one and it worked perfectly. It was a faulty element.
It would be good to know if this is the 12 volt heating element or if this is the 120 volt heating element
Mine has a 44 ohm spec. Is 37.4 too far out of spec? My 5A fuse keeps blowing and I’m trying to figure out if it’s the circuit board or the heating element. Thanks in advance!!
Disconnect 1 lead of the heating element, and plug in the fuse. If it doesn't blow after a while, connect the other wire and see if it blows. If it does, the element has shorted to the point to where it is drawing excessive current.
I have an 2003 Dometic AC, DC, Propane refrigerator. It doesn't work on AC or DC but on Propane works fine. I've tested both heating elements and they both pass the Ohms test. What else can I do to diagnose no AC or DC refrigeration?
mine shows 0.03. I replaced it with a new one as the specs are 40.3
The new one also shows 0.03
Thoughts?
Perhaps the VOM was set to the wrong scale?
Than’ you.
Does a 12 volt battery have to be hooked up in the system for dometic refrigerator to work. I know it uses 12 volts but does the battery have to be hooked up? I can't find the answer anywhere.
So if you leave heater element in place, will that effect ohm reading, i will try.
I realize good to examine corrosion
Fantastic video, Darren!
I have a Dometic RM2862 that stopped getting cold about a week ago. My heating element tests good with 42 ohms across it, and it is getting 120VAC from the control board, and it heats up like it should. My gas burner also makes heat when I shift over to Gas mode. In neither mode, however, will my refrigerator get even the least bit cold... My wife and I live in our 5th wheel on our land while we are working on building our home, and being in South Dakota during the winter, I have insulated skirting all the way around- which is to say that I cannot take it to a service tech. Our camper (and fridge) are level, both the electrical and gas modes make heat, j, I have no blockages in the vent path behind the fridge, and I see/smell no evidence of an amonia leak... Can you suggest anything else that I can check for that might check? We're pinching pennies here, so the thought of an unplanned expense of several hundred dollars (on the low end!) is not pleasant. Thank you!
If the ambient temperature being drawn into that lower vent is below freezing, the issue may be you just need to block off 90% of that vent to trap more heat in that chimney ( a piece of cardboard works great taped to the inside of the vent). The refrigerator may be able to generate heat at the boiler, but it's so cold that the heat is not being delivered where it needs to be and that freezing temperature just ruins everything. So, try blocking some of that freezing air at that lower vent and see if that doesn't get your refrigerator working again.
Does the heating element have to be working when propane is in use? Can you put a bypass on it to save your battery when not plugged in.
I'm not sure if this answers your question in any way but my element is bad, so my fridge is only running on propane right now. It works just fine on propane without a working element
I guess my real question is can you run your refrigerator without electric or battery power. I had a 73 Airstream and if there was no power it would run off of propane. Now they have put something in there that drains your battery in two days. I could boondock 2 weeks and a little more just off a M24 battery without having to charge my battery.
So my wires are burnt and I have a bunch of yellow around the bottom of the heat stack. Is that even repairable or just start over and replace? It’s 2 years old
That's an indication your cooling unit has failed. Head to my playlist and under refrigerator playlist you will find one on replacing a cooling unit for refrigerator. Watch that see if you feel like tackling it.
So would you happen to know what that temperature (325 watts) would be
I really don’t. I use ohm’s and watts law to make sure the ohms, watts, amps and volts are within spec and go with that. A safe guesstimate on temperature would be around 360°F but I have never recorded it.
Thanks for the question though!
Cheers,
Darren
@@MyRVWorks Thank you for making an attempt to answer the question. Have a great Memorial Day!
I have a 1976 dometic rm66E model RV refrigerator that I want to run off of my RV 12volt house battery. Do you know what power consumption this model uses? Amp hours? How can I figure this out?
Professional video, just guys make sure that yours rig is leveled as happen to me- I was looking for answer why my Dometic gas/electric medium size fridge is not working properly until I check manual which said about leveling, and bum, my rv trailer was not on even driveway and after 30 minutes after leveling the fridge had cold freezer on electric and no problem switching to gas :)
Is it possible for the heating element to have an internal short, where it trips the AC breaker after turning on? I'm noticing this where I've tracked down a tripped breaker to the heating element. As soon as I remove the leads from the circuit board, the breaker is fine, but as soon as I connect them back, the element turns hot/red and then trips the AC. I've even tried it with the element suspended in the air, so I doubt it's grounding to the chassis. It would almost seem like there's an internal short from positive to neutral. Any ideas?
I think you nailed it. Yes it is very possible for the heating element to have an internal short.
They short from the heater to the tube the heaters contained in
@@MyRVWorks I think that is my problem.
I changed the heating element. My over temp switch keeps tripping. Also after changing the element will it smoke for a while? I noticed mine smoking a little.
Okay, the smoke is kind of scary. Did you use some kind of a spray lubricant to help work out the old element? That may be all that is as that product burns off. If not, and it still smoking then we've got bigger issues there. Perhaps you have a leak at the boiler? Perhaps that's steam escaping?
Is the AC element the same as the DC element? I am trying to find out if I have a 2 or 3 mode Dometic fridge what is the difference?
So on my trailer I have a kitchen outlet, bathroom, my converter, and my refrigerator are all on the same circuit. I’ve narrowed it down but whenever my refrigerator is plugged in it trips my gfi outlet in the kitchen. If I un plug it everything works perfect and the fridge automatically switches to propane. Does my heating element possibly have a short?
does this have any affect on lp operation?
Hi Darren, our refrigerator works on a(n) LP great, but not on electricity. I checked the power, there was power, the fuses are okay, and there was power I the heating element, heating element's oms was reading 42.2 and it is warm, but the fridge won't work. Any advice? Thanks.
My brand new 2019 model Dometic just decided to stop working on any setting. Propane or electric. I have checked everything I can think of and all seems to be in order. Does this heating element being out work for both ways?
If nothing is working at all, verify you are getting 12 volts to the control board. There's also fuses on the control board. You need to remove the cover of the control board to get to those fuses.
@@MyRVWorks I checked the heating element. Mine is identical to yours and I get a reading of 4.2 I assume that means it's bad?