RV Refrigerator - Bad Heating Element
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- In this exciting RV Refrigerator Repair video, We tackle a common issue with an RV fridge - a bad heating element. Carol Howard is a Master Technician and is the owner of RV Inspection Specialists. Follow along as she replaces the faulty part, and uncovers an unexpected problem.
"RV Refrigerator Repair," "Bad Heating Element," "Surprising Discovery," "DIY Repair," "RV Fridge Troubleshooting," and "Fixing Cooling Issues." Subscribe and join me as I perform RV Inspections, repairs, and video other technicians to learn from!
Awesome job. Love watching you and other RV techs working in the field. To bad Carol doesn't have a Channel. Thanks Don
Yes she should but she is so busy she doesn’t have time for that. I will go back and visit her again when I can. Hoping to get more techs that allow me to film. I learn and I get to share it with others.
Deb - Another great video. Rarely is their a job that simply goes as planned! I look forward to working with you and helping share content from the technician side with you and your subscribers! Bubblehead RV is here to help!
Thanks Joe! Looking forward to it as well. I love learning from great technicians.
Y’all did a great job, real life challenges, professional done. Keep it up!
Thank you Brian!!
Good 👍🏻, makes me think about the problem solving.
Same with comments.
Bit stunned owner isn’t checking on their fridge vent every now n then and keeping it free of bugs nests. 🍻
I find that frequently people aren’t checking their appliances for nests and webs etc. thanks for watching!
Morning Deb, seems that not only do RV tech's have to deal with Mud Dobber nests, but also birds nests of excess wiring that the installers just stuff into the appliance compartments,,,,,
Kudo's to Carol, she knows her stuff! Wish she was on the west coast.
I have a simple tech to tech tip for her, I use a small magnet from Harbor Freight to hold my screws that I take off, just a simple little 1in. round earth magnet, helps keep them from rolling around while you're working.
I'm having a bit of a conundrum of my own with my absorption fridge, a Dometic 2652 in a '96 class C, it's getting to cold, both freezer and fridge, fridge will get down to 28dgr and the freezer will get to -18dgr.
I've moved the thermistor all the way down on the fin, If I move the thermistor up on the fin the fridge will drop to further in temp and the freezer froze the batteries in my temp sensor to -20dgr then quit working,,,,,, lithium batteries are recommended for the freezer temp sensor so true to fact, alkaline batteries don't work in the freezer temp sensor,,,,
Today I'm going to remove the control units cover and just check the connections.
I'm on road trip right now so the fridge isn't critical in that I have a home and going to return to in the next day or two so I do have time to diagnose my issue but would sure like some experienced advice/help if Carol would know what's wrong by just the symptoms I've tried to explain.
It's weird because at home for a week without moving the rig, the fridge worked perfectly, but once on the road is when it started it's issue.
Keeping food onboard isn't an issue either, I'm on a road trip it's just that I seem to find the restaurants that have the not so good chef's,,,,,,,,
Good morning Mike! Thanks for the comment and I do know what you mean by the magnet for holding screws. I have several of them and you know what happens? I will get somewhere and forget to bring one. Haha! I passed on your question to Carol and will get back to you with feedback.
@@debsrvservices Thanks Deb, I'll keep an eye for the reply.
Mike, Carol’s response was to test the thermistor itself. It may need replacement. Sometimes it can cause it to act wonky. Hope this helps! Thank you!
@@debsrvservices Morning Deb, to keep you in the loop.
I discovered that the Dometic fridge has a "Limp Mode", the control unit senses a failed component so it goes into a constant cool mode where it just keeps on cooling that you can control by turning the fridge on & off to help save your food.
The thermistor was part of the problem for sure, I tested the new one and it responded quicker and at 9,5K ohms in ice water.
It helped but still too cold so I replaced the control unit with an up-graded unit from Dinosaur Electronics' in Oregon, they make replacement control units for lot's of older RV appliances, the difference is they designed in a temp control adjustment inside the unit that helps way more than sliding the thermistor up or down on the fin in the fridge.
I'm now to the point of making a small adjustment in the control unit to get the fridge into an acceptable working range.
got to remember these fridge's aren't quick to respond and cool in cycles so you want to get it between 36dgr's to 40dgr's in the fridge and accept what you get in the freezer, it will be between 2dgr's to 6dgr's, plenty cold enough to freeze things and keep them frozen.
Oh wow! I will have to remember that! You are teaching me😊 The dinosaur control board sounds great and a good option. Glad you found some answers.
I’ve replaced mine due to no continuity but found that the old one is working when I connect it direct? So presumably, even with no contnuity, it can still be good?
The heating element is only 175w I think, therefore only 1.5 amps on 110v?
How much resistance should the heating element measure?
Great question!! So it does depend on the watts etc and should be in the service manual of the refrigerator. Typically for a 6-10 cubic ft refrigerator it is 44 ohms. What I would do is find out the model and serial number then go on line and get those specs just to be sure. Sometimes the refrigerators can have the incorrect heating element in it and that is part of the problem. Thank you!
@@debsrvservices Thank you so much for your reply.