RV Fridge Not Working on Propane - 10 Tips to Troubleshoot & Repair

How to troubleshoot & fix propane/electric RV fridge problems, especially if the refrigerator works on 120 volts AC, but is not cooling on propane, as the flame won't ignite or stay lit, and your Check light may be on. Tips for Norcold or Dometic RV refrigerator troubleshooting.
Plus how absorption fridges work, how to adjust the temperature in the fridge if it is not cooling enough or is freezing your food, by adjusting the thermistor, and how to adjust the gas pressure with a DIY manometer.
How to check the solenoid, thermocouple, spark gap and voltage, clean the gas burner, and replace the thermistor or circuit board. How to repair the problem if your Norcold or Dometic RV fridge is not getting cold, plus maintenance tips.
Applies to both 2 way and 3 way fridges, which run either on propane, 120 volt AC or 12 volt DC.
I recommend a fridge thermometer outside with a sensor inside, like this one: amzn.to/3WKZIj0
Deoxit spray works great for cleaning electrical contacts: amzn.to/3AmU2E9
A simple 12 volt battery meter, to keep an eye on your voltage: amzn.to/46Libk4
This battery meter also tells you amps and watt hours used, especially good with Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries: amzn.to/3YLjuNP
This rv fridge fan helps circulate the cold inside the fridge: amzn.to/4cpbXYd
A low cost electrical tester if you don't have one: amzn.to/4dJPgPv
As an Amazon associate, I may earn a commission on purchases you make within 24 hours of following one of these links. This is one way you can support me if you appreciate the video.
0:56 Check DC voltage
1:24 Gas to appliance
1:42 Level within 2 degrees
1:55 Switch Electric to Propane
2:52 Igniter Spark Gap
3:03 Clean Electrical Connections
3:47 Test Thermocouple
4:09 Clean Burner Tube
4:46 Clean Jet, Test Solenoid
5:12 DIY Manometer Gas Pressure Test
5:43 Replacing Circuit Board
6:28 Cold or Hot Weather Operation
6:41 Circulation Fan Inside Fridge
6:55 Hi Lo Thermometer w/Probe
7:02 Adjust or Replace Thermistor
7:57 Drain Reservoir
8:04 Clean Fridge Bay
The fridge in our 28 year old camper worked fine plugged into 120 volts AC, but when we tried to run it on propane, the flame would not light. I fixed it by cleaning all the electrical contacts, but it died again, this time I replaced the circuit board. Then it worked too good and froze everything, so I replaced the thermistor. It has worked fine ever since.

[@turbo3089]

Thank you I had no idea what I was doing ....

[@HartzHomestead]

Glad I could help!

[@homesteadfromscratch]

Super clear and comprehensive. Thank you.

[@HartzHomestead]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ArtofSilkPainting]

Wow!!! So much good information. Thanks. Love the subtitles. They make it really easy to follow.

[@travelgeorge]

Great stuff. I just got my dometic fridge to lite on propane but the flame is low and my ignition is constantly clicking. This looks very helpful to disassemble and clean the burner tube.

[@HartzHomestead]

If cleaning the burner tube doesn't fix it, other causes of the flame being low might be the brass jet could need cleaning (my manual says to gently clean it with alcohol and compressed air so as not to damage it), or your gas pressure might be low (see the video section on DIY manometer to test gas pressure). Hope this helps.

[@travelgeorge]

@@HartzHomestead Thanks, I seem to have it somewhat fixed.I cleaned the burner tube and burner jet as suggested.
I now have a strong flame at start-up/cool down for the fridge and its working well BUT when the fridge is at temperature and the flame drops my ignition wants to constantly work.. clicking no stop. I've adjusted the electrode to what seems like an appropriate gap but no luck. What drive the electrode to want to work? Appreciate anymore tips.

[@HartzHomestead]

Are you saying the flame drops to a lower flame? On mine the flame is either on or off. The electrode should only spark when there's no flame and the fridge is warm enough to re-light. You may need a new thermocouple. If it is not detecting the flame when there actually is, it may think the flame has gone out and needs re-lighting. Or you may need a new circuit board, which tells the electrode when to spark, and then there's a black box that creates the spark. You could do a search for "igniter keeps sparking when there is a flame" or something like that and see if someone has a better answer.

[@travelgeorge]

@@HartzHomestead Yes, the flame remains low and then the electrode starts. It never completely shuts off as far as I can tell, when the fridge reaches a certain temperature my flame drops and the ignition starts clicking. I have RM2454.
I've found a couple of dormant forum discussions on the topic I've tried to revive to see if someone has a clear conclusion.

[@HartzHomestead]

It sounds like the solenoid is not closing completely. If you turn the fridge completely off, does the flame still stay lit? Or if you disconnect the wires to the solenoid, it should close and the flame would go out. Or do you have to close the gas valve to get it to go out?
You can test the solenoid by applying 12 volts, then no voltage, and it should open and close. If it's not, I'd replace it.
Possibly when the flame drops low like that the thermocouple no longer senses the flame, but if the solenoid won't close, it tries to re-ignite.
Do you have a manual or can you find one online? That may give troubleshooting tips.

[@dianebindl7057]

Easy to follow suggestions. Thanks.