1 of the best videos I've seen for the dreaded Dometic frig. Your beeping really revealed the frustration level that we all encounter. Thanks for the info.
James, Thank you for that compliment ! Absolutely the worst thing we had ever experienced with the exception of the CO alarm. Our Fridge has been rock solid ever since. I hope that helped video has helped you in some way.
Wow great video and explanation! We were camping at 8,000 ft and fridge stopped working. That annoying beep! Everything you said makes sense. Thank you!
Great honest description of the many frustrations of RV ownership, thanks! It helps to know that we are not alone. You must have the patience of a nun to go through all the trials and tribulations that you did to finally come to a solution. You get the Blue Ribbon for perseverance and investigative savvy. It seems that new RVs are all switching to compressor fridges, but I'm holding out with my 17-year-old Dometic 3-way. I have a warning for readers: Remember that RV manufacturers are driven by money, as are most businesses, but some businesses are more deceptive than others. Compressor fridges are much much cheaper than absorption fridges, and both types have their pros and cons, so don't automatically believe that compressor fridges are better for your particular situation just because that's what RV manufacturers are now pushing. Same goes for all the tech, like touch-screen controls, instant hot water/furnace combo units, cassette toilets, and so on. The RV manufacturers will go for what makes them the most profit, and they'll sell you ocean-front property in Arizona. I have seen more reports of RV'ers without functioning appliances, lights, heaters, awnings, and A/Cs simply because their touch-screen panel has failed or gone black. There was a lot of quality built into many older RVs, especially pre-2008 recession. I'd like to see an RV built today last for the next 17 years. I also appreciate the absence of constant music and over-editing of your video, very refreshing over the "look at ME!" style that has taken over.
That process of elimination...boy, do we learn a lot! Thank you for sharing yours. Very helpful. I'll be replacing the eyebrow board of my old Servel [Dometic] 3-way fridge soon - with a Dinosaur part.
If you have an RV Refrigerator that is not operating the way it should, this video is for you, I go through the troubleshooting process that was needed to get our Dometic 2652 RV refrigerator working properly again. I include valuable RV refrigerator service information in this video that could help get your refrigerator working the way it should. *** The information in this video is provided for entertainment purposes. *** YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CONSULT A PROFESSIONAL WHEN WORKING WITH PROPANE, 12V POWER and ELECTRICAL ISSUES. Thank You for Watching and supporting this Channel
Great talk, Had the the same problems over many years and like you found ways around it, In the end I was lucky to be reading a forum in France where I live about a few tech/RV guys here in France who designed a new control board for my model (which domestic don't make anymore) No relays just computer chips so much more superior. As you say for your system it gives better ignition so works great, I have just done a full upgrade (as my fridge is now 20 years old) and added a new burner, gas valve and heat sensor, I hope I can now enjoy it for another 20 years if I live that long ;-), Thanks again from Europe.
Yes, I hope that fridge lasts you 20 yes as well. It is amazing how much can fail in a camper. I appreciate you sharing your experience, it may help another person who visits the channel. Thank you for Watching
Just know that it may only be the beginning of fixes to come. This is part of owning an RV. try to look past the bad stuff and enjoy the camping and adventure.
Awesome and well told story,I’ve been through the same frustrations with my never cold unit in my motorhome and struggled for some time until I found the Ford videos,over the years their virtues have helped me through thermistors,thermal breakers,heating elements and power boards,helped me get many extra years out of my rv refrigerators instead of the dreaded whole unit replacement.
David, Thank you for that Feedback, yes, fridge problems seems to be everywhere, and with a little time and patience they get fixed. Thank you for watching
My RV Works is another RUclips to check out. Go to his playlists on refrigerator’s,furnaces, anything rv’s. Lots of different problems are diagnosed and dealt with. Thanks for the video.
I love your videos! This one hit a cord with me - “you gotta learn to do it yourself.” Now, for a quick and maybe insane question: how do you remove the lower power module cover? 🙃
Great video man. I was having a hell of a time with my dometic fridge as well. Brand new camper though. I was told the fridge had to be level and the app on my phone was telling me it was level. I got my hands on my actual small level put it in there and it was off and I just adjusted it today hopefully this thing stays cold tomorrow.
Hank, I hope to get better at making these type of videos with more information and better filming. Your not alone, I have had leveled my travel trail at least 50 times because of the fridge problem. That was before the fix. Now i realize the board was my problem. Level is important, but ... level is not the guarantee. A little education, a dinosaur electronics board, and some obsession to resolve the problem made it happen. I hope you are successful in getting the fridge to work.
I have often had this told to me about been level and for me I have never had an issue with this. Ok we do the chock the wheels for personal comfort but many times it's been learning forward or back or to one side, but in my experience it's never effected the fridge. Just my view.
Dinosaur fixed my furnace like that plus it also has LED lights that sequence with the different cycles so it allows you to troubleshoot Basically self diagnostic.........great products and cheap
Well explained. I was expecting to hear that after all this work, you found it was the most common fix... a new control board. But at 12:44 you said, "it still struggles to light and stay lit". So the board was a work around but not the real problem. You seem to have low pressure or volume of propane at the frig or it wouldn't "struggle to light and stay lit". Most likely it is your pressure regulator that is at fault, or you have something restricting the flow of propane to the frig (auto switching valve perhaps). Since a regulator is cheap, I would suggest replacing it. Also, if your batteries run low during the night due to the furnace drawing them down (or perhaps a CPAP), it may get voltage below the threshold necessary to keep the frig electronics working properly. That might explain the evening cycle. It takes 12v electric power to open and close valves and run the control board etc. when boon docking. Just some thoughts if you want to pursue further.
Thank you for these great troubleshooting ideas. Since the fix, the Fridge has never failed and I am happy about that. Unless it fails again I probably wont dig into the issue further. A few things i did check, I had a local propane distribution shop test my regulators and I even replaced them to compare operation. I also built a manometer to validate the gas pressure levels while different draws were active throughout the camper. I also thoroughly cleaned all the fittings at the fridge and I monitor the Power levels with a device that records 24/7 the voltage and other reading in the camper. You are right, SO many things could effect the operation. I am hopeful that some of my discovery is able to help other campers to solve a problem like this if they have. It is the pits not being able to rely on the fridge. I can tell you are far more knowledgeable than I in this area and I appreciate you sharing your troubleshoot ideas. This is very helpful. Kevin
I have a 2012 PW Excel with a Dometic RM8505 fridge. post struck a cord as I have issue with elevation over 3,120 ft according to the fridge manual. A new control panel was installed by previous owner, but don't have details of which one. I have owned since 12/22. Did your new control panel fix your issue with going up in the mountains?
I just bought a 2000 Newmar class A with the same type older Refrigerator. Same/similar computer as yours. I didn't think it was running at all. I took off the burner cover and noticed the pipe was warm (it's not hooked up to shore power now). It makes no noise. Do you have any idea how much gas it uses while un-plugged?
Just to make sure I understand correctly, at 12:19 the sequence is better than the stock one, you are talking about the Dinausor board? Yesterday I get into my trailer, fridge is at 10C, the flame was on ( when I looked) the freezer seem to still work well I run it without the thermistor -3 years now like this-I have an extra board, maybe I will switch it?! I can’t see what else. I’m on the road Boondocking no AC. Fridge is full of meat 🙆🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️. Thank you for this excellent video and all the links. 🎉
Yes the Dinosaur boards are Fantastic. The one I replaced changed everything for us. and it never failed after the board replacement. Your welcome, I hope this helps you.
Question ole'son we had our water heater switch to tankless and now when it rains water is coming through the water heater door from outside like it is going right through the exhaust. Anyway on fixing that
Great Stuff, I love Dinosaur electronics. They make a board for water heaters that works for both Atwood and Suburban water heaters. Like you said with the fridge, they have a great way of sparking the ignition. (It fires 5 times a second, wait 2 seconds and 5 time a second again - at least for the water heater boards.). Great company.
Thanks Peter for your comment i hope to help others with this type of information. So many new RVers. I appreciate the support from a fellow RV pro like yourself 🤠
Christopher, if you mean the valve at the burner, I can share that I took my valve apart and carefully cleaned each component and put it back together and that helped. If you are not going to pay for the repair, I highly recommend the video series listed in video description and/ or the fridge book listed. These were absolutely a big help for me.
I need to buy a new fridge for the rv (original died after 18 years, and Magic Chef 10.1 cu just died when it got hot out). So, is it better to spend the extra $1,000 to buy a New dometic rv fridge, 120v, 12v, propane...as it may survive Arizona heat better, last long, and travel easier OR buy the $350 Magic Chef that fits like a glove in the space. (I think the Magic chef died because the fridge was too crowded and then on 1st hot day compressor went out. Also, I leaned that I need refrigerator fans and will do that this time). Thanks for your time. I appreciate the help. /// Also, do u have an opinion on Everchill products?
Thanks K for the comment. You have some big upgrades coming it sounds like. Iam a fan of the new Dometic but it is hard to beat that $350 deal that fits so good. I don't know much about the Everchill products so I can't tell you much about that product line
Sounds good as all electronics are not 100% even new for some readon. We are having cooling issues on our new camper and the RV dealer cannot do anything as they have made our camper worse instead of fixing some of issues during the 1st year they made them worse and now they want to replace cooling unit on the fridge under warranty but I guess I need to see if a new board will come with it or is it the board shutting off before it gets to temp? I do not have time to check all of this on the weekend and that is what they should have done. I think they just want to replace parts instead of figuring out what is wrong with it. So this is an aftermarket board not from Dometic?
MCMUSICH, IF this is the standard absorption Fridge, generally there is no problem with the coils and basic system. In fact the control board does all the work of keeping the pilot light or electric element on. There can be a list of things to go through to verify the unit was installed properly. For our Unit, the GAS pilot light would fail to restart too often and the "Dinosaur" control board was the answer. They make good electronics with lots of reviews similar to mine. I sure hope they can help you too. ** it is an easy replacement and worth it just from the upgrade perspective.
I have the same model I live in Colorado Springs above 5000 ft . I am experiancing the same problem. I am experimenting by removing the protection cover and schematic cover and the igniter works consistantly. I then re installed the protection cover , that brought back the problem. Next i removed the the protection cover and reinstalled the schematic cover, now the igniter works. What kind of problem will I have not using that protection cover. I am thinking about gluing on some thermal protection material on that schematic cover
Gerardo, I did all the same tests that you have described. In the end The tests for me were just too inconsistent. After I replaced the main board. The fridge has been flawless at every temperature and elevation. I am not sure exactly what cover you are describing, I hope your testing goes good. I hope this helps.
John, glad you liked it. I am working on a followup video. The repair has worked so well that I want to show how reliable the fridge has become. camping has been worry free now. Thanks for watching
Our refrigerator works great on AC, but when on LP it isn't cooling. The freezer is nice and cold, but the refrigerator is around 72 degrees. We have tried everything you showed up to the replacing of the control board. We have noticed that we don't hear the fan working on LP, but we do hear it on AC. Is that normal? Our refrigerator is a Dometic refrigerator. We purchased our trailer new in February 2020.
Cheryl, There is a lot to unpack in your comment. first thing is check to make sure the LP gas is actually turning on. put your ear near the fridge out side and listen for the sound of a burning flame. like you hear when using your gas stove in the RV. Start there first. tech support will really tough on RUclips there is no way i could cover all you need to know. if you do Instagram, send me a DM "thervaddict" and i will try to guide you. 👍
@@cbjbjbMom , i feel your pain on the fridge. While i am not a Certified fridge tech i can be handy fixing stuff in front of me. My best advice is to order that fridge book or even better watch a few of those videos i listed in the description as Mr. Ford does a Fantastic job explaining what to look for. It really is remarkable how simple the fridges are.. that being said, we only know what we know. I would also thaw out the freezer completely to ensure you really are making cooling with propane. If the fridge and freezer work on AC, then you will only need to troubleshoot the heating on propane process. This may sound worse than it really is.
Found your video today as I trouble shoot my atwood he-0601 unit acting up just prior to leaving 24hrs out. Fired the unit up on ac yesterday and this morning it had cooled down nicely. Checked this afternoon and notice the ac had gotten accidently unpluged and so the unit had switched over to gas but temp was rising. Switched back to AC and temp still rising. I've unplugged everything in an attempt to reset and no luck, checked all breakers and ac lights up and temp gauges are maxed out. If it was the compressor wouldn't the propane run it or does that still use the compressor? Just trying to narrow down why this will not work with either method. Appreciate any advice.
Mike, i hear you about the frustration with the fridge problem. I am not sure about your specific fridge. My fridge is an absorption fridge and has no compressor. Having a propane option would lead me to think you also have an absorption fridge. Meaning it boils the mixture to create cold.
@@RVKevin apologies sir, it is also absorption no compressor. Do you think the circuit could be the culprit here also? What was the cost of your board? With both the ac side and propane not cooling it down it leads me to think that is something they both have in common and perhaps that is it. My flame is working and in East Tn at only 1000 ft so no altitude issue for me to deal with like in your case.
@@mikegreene9215 , if you have never dealt with an RV fridge before, it can be allot to take in. the technology is pretty simple but only once you get an idea of what is happening to cool the fridge down. I can give you a direction to look, just keep in mind that I am not a certified refrigerator tech. 1- check your fuses at the converter panel. 2- check the fuses at the control board at the fridge. 3-check for heat buildup at the rear of the fridge outside. (heat makes it work) 4- make sure your freezer compartment or the cooling fins in your fridge are not frozen. ** ice buildup will prevent or reduce cooling. Here are a few links to checkout. I hope this information helps you, 👍 happy camping. www.amazon.com/gp/product/1450001483/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1&geniuslink=true ----------------- rvrefrigeration.com/diy-rv-refrig-videos --------------- www.dinosaurelectronics.com/index.htm
@@RVKevin Already have the first step complete and sent an email to the dinosaur last night. Very much appreciate your help and quick attention to my questions sir!
I have been off & on working on my camper fridge for the last 7 years or so ....It beeps and won't start up with a new circuit board I installed years ago even ....Today Im at it again tinkering away at it . so far it was working for a couple hours then shut off and started beeping . so the struggle continues .....
Hey Hobo ! Thats a bummer, is your fridge also electric ? Try running it both ways. Also try the video training links in the description of my video about the fridge repair ? i learned a ton from that guy and it really helped me to understand what actually happens with absorption fridge operation.
@@RVKevin Yea It does the same thing on elec. also .....but just turned it off and back on 1 hour ago and its working again ....( I hate that beeping too ) ....So hopefully it will stay on this time . Im off grid at home so I have to run it on propane only out here ....I will check the videos out ...thanks
@@Sirskibumsalot , not sure what the beeping is from, never had that experience. Man i hope you figure it out. When you figure out the issue, leave another comment. I would love to know and to share your win 😎👍
@@RVKevin ....Ok the Beeping is the alarm on my fridge that starts beeping when my fridge shuts down - fails etc. ...So any ways today I blew out all the gas lines on the fridge in the exterior hatch , back at the burner assembly . And now I have a way way better , stronger and louder pilot light flaming on !! and every thing is working like brand new , freezer is freezing and the fridge is very cold !! So I'm happy about it . tired of throwing away spoiled food . Ok thats my story . have a good weekend
There should be a way to completely eliminate the integrated RV refrigerator (typically a Dometic), and replace it with a CORDED refrigerator you get in a department store. When I plug my RV in, even with everything turned off, it still draws over 200 watts of power! I have no idea what is using that power. It's NOT the stove, lights, microwave, oven, air conditioner, refrigerator, TV, stereo, nor water heater. The problem is, I can only power the Dometic integrated refrigerator when the entire RV is plugged in. Turning the refrigerator off still draws over 200 watts, so I am stuck using an external refrigerator! Very annoying.
The control board of the Fridge, still draw 12v power.even if you do not have a battery, the "converter" or power center creates the 12v needed to run the control board. Yes it is annoying, completely agree
@@RVKevin wow.. I think this is the first time I have gotten useful, intelligent information in a RUclips message! It also astounds me at how much power the RV's microwave draws. // is there some way to bypass the RV's control board so I don't have to power the RV... and power the Dometic with an extention cord for power? It also runs on gas, but I bet running on gas is more expensive than anything else.
I have had it happened to me to, so I understand. Really appreciate that you took the time to watch, i hope it helps you. If you have fridge issues, i have acouple more videos about making it work better.
@@RVKevin yes, much better 2nd time around... I'm stumped w/ this fridge, my 12 volts is there, my 120AC is there, the pipings hot....but nothing from fridge... Here's the weird part, when I first got it here, connected to the house, I coulda swore the freezer part was getting cold, then I noticed the light was missing, so I put one in and it came on (the light) for a brief second, then poof nothing, light ohmed out still good, went ACROSS the 2 light contacts with light pulled out, measured about 6 volts, Don't find an inside area where I could check with a ground reference, tis why I measured across the contacts. I know mechanics and electronics, but with heating/refrigeration (especially this weird ammonia chemical method) I'm a total newbie Much Thanks my friend...
There is a lot that you have described. I am not expert, the first thing i isolated was to make certain that the fridge does not have any yellow chemical leaking from the pipe at any location. Then ensure you get heating with AC. Next ensure heating with propane. ** ensure the rig is level. If you purchased used and it was operated long term not being level that could have damaged the pipes that let the gas flow. I hope that helps you
1 of the best videos I've seen for the dreaded Dometic frig.
Your beeping really revealed the frustration level that we all encounter.
Thanks for the info.
James,
Thank you for that compliment ! Absolutely the worst thing we had ever experienced with the exception of the CO alarm.
Our Fridge has been rock solid ever since. I hope that helped video has helped you in some way.
I am now CONVINCED the Problem is the circuit board!! I REALLY Appreciate your help and THANK YOU for this video!!!
I hope this helps you, it took months for me to find an answer. Since the repair, the Fridge has worked flawlessly.
@@RVKevin, I’m am sure of it!! Thank You for your Caring Heart to so many!! Your research is Priceless!! May God Richly Bless you for your efforts!!
Wow great video and explanation! We were camping at 8,000 ft and fridge stopped working. That annoying beep! Everything you said makes sense. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
what fridge model do you have, and does your manual address elevation?
Great vidio!! I have been a refer tech for over 40 years and your steps to find the problem were right on. Also enjoy your ham radio videos Joe WX7XX
Great honest description of the many frustrations of RV ownership, thanks! It helps to know that we are not alone. You must have the patience of a nun to go through all the trials and tribulations that you did to finally come to a solution. You get the Blue Ribbon for perseverance and investigative savvy. It seems that new RVs are all switching to compressor fridges, but I'm holding out with my 17-year-old Dometic 3-way. I have a warning for readers: Remember that RV manufacturers are driven by money, as are most businesses, but some businesses are more deceptive than others. Compressor fridges are much much cheaper than absorption fridges, and both types have their pros and cons, so don't automatically believe that compressor fridges are better for your particular situation just because that's what RV manufacturers are now pushing. Same goes for all the tech, like touch-screen controls, instant hot water/furnace combo units, cassette toilets, and so on. The RV manufacturers will go for what makes them the most profit, and they'll sell you ocean-front property in Arizona. I have seen more reports of RV'ers without functioning appliances, lights, heaters, awnings, and A/Cs simply because their touch-screen panel has failed or gone black. There was a lot of quality built into many older RVs, especially pre-2008 recession. I'd like to see an RV built today last for the next 17 years. I also appreciate the absence of constant music and over-editing of your video, very refreshing over the "look at ME!" style that has taken over.
That process of elimination...boy, do we learn a lot! Thank you for sharing yours. Very helpful. I'll be replacing the eyebrow board of my old Servel [Dometic] 3-way fridge soon - with a Dinosaur part.
If you have an RV Refrigerator that is not operating the way it should, this video is for you,
I go through the troubleshooting process that was needed to get our Dometic 2652 RV refrigerator working properly again.
I include valuable RV refrigerator service information in this video that could help get your refrigerator working the way it should.
*** The information in this video is provided for entertainment purposes.
*** YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CONSULT A PROFESSIONAL WHEN WORKING WITH PROPANE, 12V POWER and ELECTRICAL ISSUES.
Thank You for Watching and supporting this Channel
Wow - great explanation and diagnosis! Thank you.
Great talk, Had the the same problems over many years and like you found ways around it, In the end I was lucky to be reading a forum in France where I live about a few tech/RV guys here in France who designed a new control board for my model (which domestic don't make anymore) No relays just computer chips so much more superior. As you say for your system it gives better ignition so works great, I have just done a full upgrade (as my fridge is now 20 years old) and added a new burner, gas valve and heat sensor, I hope I can now enjoy it for another 20 years if I live that long ;-), Thanks again from Europe.
Yes, I hope that fridge lasts you 20 yes as well. It is amazing how much can fail in a camper. I appreciate you sharing your experience, it may help another person who visits the channel. Thank you for Watching
Awesome video, I just bought a RV it came with a 60 day warranty, And it is taking more than 2 weeks for the part. So Iratating
Just know that it may only be the beginning of fixes to come. This is part of owning an RV. try to look past the bad stuff and enjoy the camping and adventure.
Let’s have coffee sometime! Enjoyed your presentation very much.
I love coffee , thanks for the complement John
Awesome and well told story,I’ve been through the same frustrations with my never cold unit in my motorhome and struggled for some time until I found the Ford videos,over the years their virtues have helped me through thermistors,thermal breakers,heating elements and power boards,helped me get many extra years out of my rv refrigerators instead of the dreaded whole unit replacement.
David, Thank you for that Feedback, yes, fridge problems seems to be everywhere, and with a little time and patience they get fixed. Thank you for watching
Awesome Video!!! Not to sound weird but soothing voice!!
Hey, thanks!
My RV Works is another RUclips to check out. Go to his playlists on refrigerator’s,furnaces, anything rv’s. Lots of different problems are diagnosed and dealt with. Thanks for the video.
Man..great. have older model but you were so through..i had to watch!
Thank you for checking out my video. 👍
I love your videos! This one hit a cord with me - “you gotta learn to do it yourself.” Now, for a quick and maybe insane question: how do you remove the lower power module cover? 🙃
Thanks, usually a snap and click fitting. Might have to unscrew it from the mounting board
Excellent informational video
Wow thank you for all the info
I WILL HAVE TO CHECK INTO THIS! THANKS!
Unfortunately we started with a problematic refrigerator. This fix Changed everything for us. Thanks for checking the video out.
Great video man. I was having a hell of a time with my dometic fridge as well. Brand new camper though. I was told the fridge had to be level and the app on my phone was telling me it was level. I got my hands on my actual small level put it in there and it was off and I just adjusted it today hopefully this thing stays cold tomorrow.
Hank, I hope to get better at making these type of videos with more information and better filming. Your not alone, I have had leveled my travel trail at least 50 times because of the fridge problem. That was before the fix. Now i realize the board was my problem. Level is important, but ... level is not the guarantee. A little education, a dinosaur electronics board, and some obsession to resolve the problem made it happen. I hope you are successful in getting the fridge to work.
I have often had this told to me about been level and for me I have never had an issue with this. Ok we do the chock the wheels for personal comfort but many times it's been learning forward or back or to one side, but in my experience it's never effected the fridge. Just my view.
Dinosaur fixed my furnace like that plus it also has LED lights that sequence with the different cycles so it allows you to troubleshoot
Basically self diagnostic.........great products and cheap
thanks for sharing
Well explained. I was expecting to hear that after all this work, you found it was the most common fix... a new control board. But at 12:44 you said, "it still struggles to light and stay lit". So the board was a work around but not the real problem. You seem to have low pressure or volume of propane at the frig or it wouldn't "struggle to light and stay lit". Most likely it is your pressure regulator that is at fault, or you have something restricting the flow of propane to the frig (auto switching valve perhaps). Since a regulator is cheap, I would suggest replacing it. Also, if your batteries run low during the night due to the furnace drawing them down (or perhaps a CPAP), it may get voltage below the threshold necessary to keep the frig electronics working properly. That might explain the evening cycle. It takes 12v electric power to open and close valves and run the control board etc. when boon docking. Just some thoughts if you want to pursue further.
Thank you for these great troubleshooting ideas. Since the fix, the Fridge has never failed and I am happy about that. Unless it fails
again I probably wont dig into the issue further. A few things i did check, I had a local propane distribution shop test my regulators and I even replaced them to compare operation. I also built a manometer to validate the gas pressure levels while different draws were active throughout the camper.
I also thoroughly cleaned all the fittings at the fridge and I monitor the Power levels with a device that records 24/7 the voltage and other reading in the camper.
You are right, SO many things could effect the operation. I am hopeful that some of my discovery is able to help other campers to solve a problem like this if they have. It is the pits not being able to rely on the fridge.
I can tell you are far more knowledgeable than I in this area and I appreciate you sharing your troubleshoot ideas. This is very helpful.
Kevin
I have a 2012 PW Excel with a Dometic RM8505 fridge. post struck a cord as I have issue with elevation over 3,120 ft according to the fridge manual. A new control panel was installed by
previous owner, but don't have details of which one. I have owned since 12/22. Did your new control panel fix your issue with going up in the mountains?
It never was an elevation issue after replacing the controller. Highly recommend doing that upgrade
I just bought a 2000 Newmar class A with the same type older Refrigerator. Same/similar computer as yours. I didn't think it was running at all. I took off the burner cover and noticed the pipe was warm (it's not hooked up to shore power now). It makes no noise. Do you have any idea how much gas it uses while un-plugged?
In the past I would go through 10 lb tank in 9 days.
@@RVKevin Thanks
Thanks for the great information
You bet! I hope it helped you. I will have a followup video on this video in the next day or so. Thank you for watching
Just to make sure I understand correctly, at 12:19 the sequence is better than the stock one, you are talking about the Dinausor board? Yesterday I get into my trailer, fridge is at 10C, the flame was on ( when I looked) the freezer seem to still work well I run it without the thermistor -3 years now like this-I have an extra board, maybe I will switch it?! I can’t see what else. I’m on the road Boondocking no AC. Fridge is full of meat 🙆🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️. Thank you for this excellent video and all the links. 🎉
Yes the Dinosaur boards are Fantastic. The one I replaced changed everything for us. and it never failed after the board replacement. Your welcome, I hope this helps you.
@@RVKevin Yes Thank You!
Question ole'son we had our water heater switch to tankless and now when it rains water is coming through the water heater door from outside like it is going right through the exhaust. Anyway on fixing that
You absolutely need to contact the installer.they should have fixed it
Great Stuff, I love Dinosaur electronics. They make a board for water heaters that works for both Atwood and Suburban water heaters. Like you said with the fridge, they have a great way of sparking the ignition. (It fires 5 times a second, wait 2 seconds and 5 time a second again - at least for the water heater boards.). Great company.
Thanks Peter for your comment i hope to help others with this type of information. So many new RVers.
I appreciate the support from a fellow RV pro like yourself 🤠
You also have to make sure your RV is balanced. The refrigerator needs to be balanced. So you need balance you RV on the area your at.
Not Balanced, it's called LEVEL within 3% as the system works on gravity.
Thanks. My issue is no gas. I checked the solenoid and it appears to be good. The unit was full of desert dust. Is there a way to check the valve?
Christopher, if you mean the valve at the burner, I can share that I took my valve apart and carefully cleaned each component and put it back together and that helped.
If you are not going to pay for the repair, I highly recommend the video series listed in video description and/ or the fridge book listed. These were absolutely a big help for me.
I need to buy a new fridge for the rv (original died after 18 years, and Magic Chef 10.1 cu just died when it got hot out). So, is it better to spend the extra $1,000 to buy a New dometic rv fridge, 120v, 12v, propane...as it may survive Arizona heat better, last long, and travel easier OR buy the $350 Magic Chef that fits like a glove in the space. (I think the Magic chef died because the fridge was too crowded and then on 1st hot day compressor went out. Also, I leaned that I need refrigerator fans and will do that this time). Thanks for your time. I appreciate the help. /// Also, do u have an opinion on Everchill products?
Thanks K for the comment. You have some big upgrades coming it sounds like. Iam a fan of the new Dometic but it is hard to beat that $350 deal that fits so good. I don't know much about the Everchill products so I can't tell you much about that product line
Right on.
Thank you Matt !
Sounds good as all electronics are not 100% even new for some readon. We are having cooling issues on our new camper and the RV dealer cannot do anything as they have made our camper worse instead of fixing some of issues during the 1st year they made them worse and now they want to replace cooling unit on the fridge under warranty but I guess I need to see if a new board will come with it or is it the board shutting off before it gets to temp? I do not have time to check all of this on the weekend and that is what they should have done. I think they just want to replace parts instead of figuring out what is wrong with it. So this is an aftermarket board not from Dometic?
MCMUSICH, IF this is the standard absorption Fridge, generally there is no problem with the coils and basic system. In fact the control board does all the work of keeping the pilot light or electric element on. There can be a list of things to go through to verify the unit was installed properly.
For our Unit, the GAS pilot light would fail to restart too often and the "Dinosaur" control board was the answer. They make good electronics with lots of reviews similar to mine. I sure hope they can help you too.
** it is an easy replacement and worth it just from the upgrade perspective.
I have the same model I live in Colorado Springs above 5000 ft . I am experiancing the same problem. I am experimenting by removing the protection cover and schematic cover and the igniter works consistantly. I then re installed the protection cover , that brought back the problem. Next i removed the the protection cover and reinstalled the schematic cover, now the igniter works. What kind of problem will I have not using that protection cover. I am thinking about gluing on some thermal protection material on that schematic cover
Gerardo, I did all the same tests that you have described. In the end The tests for me were just too inconsistent.
After I replaced the main board. The fridge has been flawless at every temperature and elevation. I am not sure exactly what cover you are describing, I hope your testing goes good.
I hope this helps.
thank you, i will order new board before the next season. i need to do this while the evening are cold thanks again
Thanks man
John, glad you liked it. I am working on a followup video. The repair has worked so well that I want to show how reliable the fridge has become. camping has been worry free now. Thanks for watching
Nice,Thanks.
Thank you for Watching !
Nice!! 👍👍
i am really glad that you liked it !
thank you for watching 🤩
Our refrigerator works great on AC, but when on LP it isn't cooling. The freezer is nice and cold, but the refrigerator is around 72 degrees. We have tried everything you showed up to the replacing of the control board. We have noticed that we don't hear the fan working on LP, but we do hear it on AC. Is that normal? Our refrigerator is a Dometic refrigerator. We purchased our trailer new in February 2020.
Cheryl, There is a lot to unpack in your comment. first thing is check to make sure the LP gas is actually turning on. put your ear near the fridge out side and listen for the sound of a burning flame. like you hear when using your gas stove in the RV. Start there first. tech support will really tough on RUclips there is no way i could cover all you need to know. if you do Instagram, send me a DM "thervaddict" and i will try to guide you. 👍
@@RVKevin The flame is definitely staying lit and it's a nice blue color.
@@cbjbjbMom , i feel your pain on the fridge. While i am not a Certified fridge tech i can be handy fixing stuff in front of me. My best advice is to order that fridge book or even better watch a few of those videos i listed in the description as Mr. Ford does a Fantastic job explaining what to look for. It really is remarkable how simple the fridges are.. that being said, we only know what we know.
I would also thaw out the freezer completely to ensure you really are making cooling with propane. If the fridge and freezer work on AC, then you will only need to troubleshoot the heating on propane process. This may sound worse than it really is.
Found your video today as I trouble shoot my atwood he-0601 unit acting up just prior to leaving 24hrs out. Fired the unit up on ac yesterday and this morning it had cooled down nicely. Checked this afternoon and notice the ac had gotten accidently unpluged and so the unit had switched over to gas but temp was rising. Switched back to AC and temp still rising. I've unplugged everything in an attempt to reset and no luck, checked all breakers and ac lights up and temp gauges are maxed out. If it was the compressor wouldn't the propane run it or does that still use the compressor? Just trying to narrow down why this will not work with either method. Appreciate any advice.
Mike, i hear you about the frustration with the fridge problem. I am not sure about your specific fridge. My fridge is an absorption fridge and has no compressor. Having a propane option would lead me to think you also have an absorption fridge. Meaning it boils the mixture to create cold.
@@RVKevin apologies sir, it is also absorption no compressor. Do you think the circuit could be the culprit here also? What was the cost of your board? With both the ac side and propane not cooling it down it leads me to think that is something they both have in common and perhaps that is it. My flame is working and in East Tn at only 1000 ft so no altitude issue for me to deal with like in your case.
@@mikegreene9215 , if you have never dealt with an RV fridge before, it can be allot to take in. the technology is pretty simple but only once you get an idea of what is happening to cool the fridge down. I can give you a direction to look, just keep in mind that I am not a certified refrigerator tech.
1- check your fuses at the converter panel.
2- check the fuses at the control board at the fridge.
3-check for heat buildup at the rear of the fridge outside. (heat makes it work)
4- make sure your freezer compartment or the cooling fins in your fridge are not frozen.
** ice buildup will prevent or reduce cooling.
Here are a few links to checkout. I hope this information helps you, 👍 happy camping.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/1450001483/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1&geniuslink=true
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rvrefrigeration.com/diy-rv-refrig-videos
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www.dinosaurelectronics.com/index.htm
@@RVKevin Already have the first step complete and sent an email to the dinosaur last night. Very much appreciate your help and quick attention to my questions sir!
@@mikegreene9215 , happy to help. I hope you get it fixed.
I have been off & on working on my camper fridge for the last 7 years or so ....It beeps and won't start up with a new circuit board I installed years ago even ....Today Im at it again tinkering away at it . so far it was working for a couple hours then shut off and started beeping . so the struggle continues .....
Hey Hobo ! Thats a bummer, is your fridge also electric ? Try running it both ways. Also try the video training links in the description of my video about the fridge repair ? i learned a ton from that guy and it really helped me to understand what actually happens with absorption fridge operation.
@@RVKevin Yea It does the same thing on elec. also .....but just turned it off and back on 1 hour ago and its working again ....( I hate that beeping too ) ....So hopefully it will stay on this time . Im off grid at home so I have to run it on propane only out here ....I will check the videos out ...thanks
@@Sirskibumsalot , not sure what the beeping is from, never had that experience. Man i hope you figure it out. When you figure out the issue, leave another comment. I would love to know and to share your win 😎👍
@@RVKevin ....Ok the Beeping is the alarm on my fridge that starts beeping when my fridge shuts down - fails etc. ...So any ways today I blew out all the gas lines on the fridge in the exterior hatch , back at the burner assembly . And now I have a way way better , stronger and louder pilot light flaming on !! and every thing is working like brand new , freezer is freezing and the fridge is very cold !! So I'm happy about it . tired of throwing away spoiled food . Ok thats my story . have a good weekend
@@Sirskibumsalot , that was allot of work ! It sounds like it was worth it too. Thanks for sharing and congrats to you 👍
Where do you get the aftermarket control boards I have a 3150 Dominic
Allen, Check this link, it should get you in the right location. And thanks for watching 😀
Replacement Dometic Board geni.us/3TBaESw
@@RVKevin the power board number 3851331011 can't find this number
I hope they can help you find the exact model you need 😎
There should be a way to completely eliminate the integrated RV refrigerator (typically a Dometic), and replace it with a CORDED refrigerator you get in a department store. When I plug my RV in, even with everything turned off, it still draws over 200 watts of power! I have no idea what is using that power. It's NOT the stove, lights, microwave, oven, air conditioner, refrigerator, TV, stereo, nor water heater. The problem is, I can only power the Dometic integrated refrigerator when the entire RV is plugged in. Turning the refrigerator off still draws over 200 watts, so I am stuck using an external refrigerator! Very annoying.
The control board of the Fridge, still draw 12v power.even if you do not have a battery, the "converter" or power center creates the 12v needed to run the control board. Yes it is annoying, completely agree
@@RVKevin wow.. I think this is the first time I have gotten useful, intelligent information in a RUclips message! It also astounds me at how much power the RV's microwave draws. // is there some way to bypass the RV's control board so I don't have to power the RV... and power the Dometic with an extention cord for power? It also runs on gas, but I bet running on gas is more expensive than anything else.
terribly mis-aligned audio...or different audio with a different video???...too confusing
You might try reloading.
RUclips does strange things sometimes. I hope it plays better for you the second time
@@RVKevin Appreciate the advice friend, Thanks
I have had it happened to me to, so I understand. Really appreciate that you took the time to watch, i hope it helps you. If you have fridge issues, i have acouple more videos about making it work better.
@@RVKevin yes, much better 2nd time around... I'm stumped w/ this fridge, my 12 volts is there, my 120AC is there, the pipings hot....but nothing from fridge... Here's the weird part, when I first got it here, connected to the house, I coulda swore the freezer part was getting cold, then I noticed the light was missing, so I put one in and it came on (the light) for a brief second, then poof nothing, light ohmed out still good, went ACROSS the 2 light contacts with light pulled out, measured about 6 volts, Don't find an inside area where I could check with a ground reference, tis why I measured across the contacts. I know mechanics and electronics, but with heating/refrigeration (especially this weird ammonia chemical method) I'm a total newbie
Much Thanks my friend...
There is a lot that you have described. I am not expert, the first thing i isolated was to make certain that the fridge does not have any yellow chemical leaking from the pipe at any location.
Then ensure you get heating with AC. Next ensure heating with propane.
** ensure the rig is level.
If you purchased used and it was operated long term not being level that could have damaged the pipes that let the gas flow.
I hope that helps you