V6s have 2 sensors 1 in each cyl head. Black wire is bank 1 Grey wire is bank 2. For P0330 bank 2 is malfunctioning. So bank 1 is good ergo cut the grey wire bank 2 signal and tie it into the black wire bank 1. Making a Y connection.
It only takes like 20 mins to take the whole intake manifold off... just a few hoses and 14 mil bolts/nuts... can leave the throttle body on the upper and all hoses will stay bent so u know where they go plus all the bolts just need the goodentite torque spec.. like an hour or two and done deal.. nothing special or gaskets needing replaced unless you fuck one up or something...
@@xxtoadboyxx Pinging, loud tinging sound, some might say Knocking but that's not how it sounds. It's a fast pinging sound. Have a 330 code. One of the results of a bad knock sensor is the EMC messes up the detonation timing in the affected bank.
@@mynameisgladiator1933 That's right. That's why doing this little hack might seem like a great idea but if the engine is detonating and the computer doesn't know about it and it doesn't retard the timing properly to eliminate the pinging the engine can suffer severe internal damage. The manufacturer put two sensors in there for a reason. If you change the design to save a few bucks like this it could cost you the entire engine.
The problem with doing this type of thing is that if the engine is experiencing detonation or preignition (often called engine knock) the computer won't know about it so it can't retard the timing to eliminate the detonation. Over time continuous undetected engine knock can do major damage inside the engine. This might be okay on a high mileage vehicle when you're just trying to squeeze a few more miles out of it. But on a vehicle you want to keep for a while its very risky.
Do you know if the 'outboard' knock sensors are the correct replacement part? We only need one working sensor to supply the signal, which is why your current wire twist mod works. The remaining functional sensor under the intake of your engine is providing the correct signal now. Both of my knock sensors are bad, so I either do the 7 hours of labor to take the top of the engine apart or try your outboard mod. What I'm wondering is if you know for fact if the two you ordered to make your outboard kit were the correct ones? I *think* yours should work - if they are the correct sensors. I also think they will not work by just connecting one to the harness and letting it hang. The sensor case must have firm contact with the block to complete the electrical circuit and measure vibration. As long as the sensor can do that, my theory is that the sensor doesn't care where it is mounted, so long as it's on the block. Your bracket probably supplies the electrical connection, but maybe not. If the sensor is mounted outboard, it probably won't do its intended job, but I don't care because I can control the timing and knock with a piggyback unit on the ECU that I already have.
WrxRunner !*} Engine knock is caused by premature ignition caused by high heat and pressure in the engine. The senora feel the explosions and adjust ignition timing to stop this problem.
@@jhayward1940 uhhhhh no. pulling timing and adding fuel will reduce knock, thats why there is a sensor called " knock sensor". maybe do some DD before you go spew garbage on the internet.
@@161995alex I did too but po330 came on again,idk if it’s because I dropped one maybe that’s the bad one ,I heard wouldn’t do nothing but dammm ,yeah not to hard just time consuming work is work ha
@@gio1971oldschooo Did you use original OEM sensors or aftermarket ones? Also, did you replace the short wiring harness that goes from the sensors to the main wiring harness? This problem is usually caused by the wiring harness and not the sensors. Also, you should only use OEM sensors and harness that were made by the manufacturer. Aftermarket parts that you get from the auto parts store frequently don't work correctly in this application and the codes will just come back.
This worked for me for about a year….and I’m getting the code again (no perceivable detonation). My connection may have come loose. I’ll check this weekend and perhaps try wiring them all together like @Jayden did.
hey Shawn, have a nice friday, bro, does P0325 feels like hesitation? can be repair by your method? does this fix brings back hp? i thought bank 1 could control retarding timing, and bank 2 gives advance to the engine, any advice? can be bolted on another part direct to the engine block?
Hey how did it turn out after you did all that to your Toyota 4Runner so how is it been running since you did all that till this day... Having the same problems on my Toyota 4Runner ... Thinking of doing the same thing you did on your 4Runner...
The reason you had to wire them together was because every knock sensor is located in different parts ok the engine, you placed them all on one beaker.
Most of the time it's not the sensors. Instead its the short wiring harness going from the sensors to the main wiring harness. Sorry but the intake manifold has to come off. Then you have to replace both sensors and the short wiring harness. You should also replace the bypass hose while you have the manifold off. And use original OEM parts and not aftermarket parts from the auto parts store. Otherwise the problem might not go away or it will come back again soon after.
I did it to my rx300 lexus. Locate the computer under the glove compartment and a bunch of wires will be expose. find a black and gray wire on the bottom on the third compartment the lowest end and pull out the wires. Rotate the wires and isolate the black and gray wires and splice the wires in half. The code on my lexus was p0330 knock sensor bank 2 sensor 2. I joint the black and gray wires together close to the ECU computer and the cut gray wire from the other all together leaving the other black wire isolated or not connected. This fixed my problem no more CEL code.
@@artistdukes1 I have a 2000 Avalon with 200K. The right repair is a 20 dollar fix that makes the car work fine for another 200K miles without spending 800 dollars to "do the right repair."
@@mikeingraham611 The downside is that the engine could be experiencing undetected engine knock because both knock sensors aren't working like they should. It might seem fine for a while but there could be pre-ignition occurring inside the combustion chambers that could eventually cause major damage inside the engine.
This actually worked for me! Thanks legend.
Thanks for the tip. It’s works been 100 miles no check engine and all the hp back!!!!!
Does your car still work?
V6s have 2 sensors 1 in each cyl head. Black wire is bank 1 Grey wire is bank 2. For P0330 bank 2 is malfunctioning. So bank 1 is good ergo cut the grey wire bank 2 signal and tie it into the black wire bank 1. Making a Y connection.
Which side is bank 1 versus bank 2? (drivers side versus passenger side) Thanks
@@jdsmaintenance bank1 is drivers bank 2 is passengers
It only takes like 20 mins to take the whole intake manifold off... just a few hoses and 14 mil bolts/nuts... can leave the throttle body on the upper and all hoses will stay bent so u know where they go plus all the bolts just need the goodentite torque spec.. like an hour or two and done deal.. nothing special or gaskets needing replaced unless you fuck one up or something...
Worked great! Thanks for showing the trick
So will this stop my engine from pinging and losing power?
@@mynameisgladiator1933what do you mean by pinging? This trick is used when one knock sensor goes bad so you splice it to another one.
@@xxtoadboyxx Pinging, loud tinging sound, some might say Knocking but that's not how it sounds. It's a fast pinging sound. Have a 330 code. One of the results of a bad knock sensor is the EMC messes up the detonation timing in the affected bank.
@@mynameisgladiator1933 That's right. That's why doing this little hack might seem like a great idea but if the engine is detonating and the computer doesn't know about it and it doesn't retard the timing properly to eliminate the pinging the engine can suffer severe internal damage. The manufacturer put two sensors in there for a reason. If you change the design to save a few bucks like this it could cost you the entire engine.
The problem with doing this type of thing is that if the engine is experiencing detonation or preignition (often called engine knock) the computer won't know about it so it can't retard the timing to eliminate the detonation. Over time continuous undetected engine knock can do major damage inside the engine. This might be okay on a high mileage vehicle when you're just trying to squeeze a few more miles out of it. But on a vehicle you want to keep for a while its very risky.
Just start using 89 octane instead of 87....the payout is slower..
The black wire is sensor 1, the grey is sensor 2.
Also you can cross the two wires to the one working sensor.
What year did Toyota 4Runner I have a 1999
2-wheel drive and trying to look for the knock sensor location
Do you know if the 'outboard' knock sensors are the correct replacement part?
We only need one working sensor to supply the signal, which is why your current wire twist mod works. The remaining functional sensor under the intake of your engine is providing the correct signal now. Both of my knock sensors are bad, so I either do the 7 hours of labor to take the top of the engine apart or try your outboard mod.
What I'm wondering is if you know for fact if the two you ordered to make your outboard kit were the correct ones?
I *think* yours should work - if they are the correct sensors. I also think they will not work by just connecting one to the harness and letting it hang. The sensor case must have firm contact with the block to complete the electrical circuit and measure vibration. As long as the sensor can do that, my theory is that the sensor doesn't care where it is mounted, so long as it's on the block. Your bracket probably supplies the electrical connection, but maybe not.
If the sensor is mounted outboard, it probably won't do its intended job, but I don't care because I can control the timing and knock with a piggyback unit on the ECU that I already have.
do you get all the power back after doing this rewire? curious nobody on youtube shows end results of how the vehicles drive after doing these tricks
this may fix the check engine light but will NOT reduce knock when it occurs
J cook
What causes knock in the first place, I agree this is just masking the problem!
But it does clear the code👍🏼
WrxRunner !*} Engine knock is caused by premature ignition caused by high heat and pressure in the engine. The senora feel the explosions and adjust ignition timing to stop this problem.
@@ericwho7032 So are you saying this will fix engine knock?
nothing will
@@jhayward1940 uhhhhh no. pulling timing and adding fuel will reduce knock, thats why there is a sensor called " knock sensor". maybe do some DD before you go spew garbage on the internet.
Has this worked well for you so far, With no issues? I am almost willing to do this with mine.
Aaron Hicks this has worked well the check engine light is still 9ff and the truck passed emmision test
Does your car still work ?
@@gio1971oldschooo I went ahead and just replaced the knock sensors. It wasn't too hard
@@161995alex I did too but po330 came on again,idk if it’s because I dropped one maybe that’s the bad one ,I heard wouldn’t do nothing but dammm ,yeah not to hard just time consuming work is work ha
@@gio1971oldschooo Did you use original OEM sensors or aftermarket ones? Also, did you replace the short wiring harness that goes from the sensors to the main wiring harness? This problem is usually caused by the wiring harness and not the sensors. Also, you should only use OEM sensors and harness that were made by the manufacturer. Aftermarket parts that you get from the auto parts store frequently don't work correctly in this application and the codes will just come back.
I have the same engine with just the code p0330 and about to splice the wires together.did your reloction idea just not work at all?
Jared Rosenberger I think the relocation kit would work as long as you have a quality sensor
This can be pain to replace I have 2000 rx300 I was getting code for Knock sensor I clean my Harness and works good now
What code were u getting ?
I'm pretty sure that's a V6
Between this video and Jayden's post, I'm going to try to wire my "sensor 1" to both harness wires (I keep getting the P0330 code).
How’d it go?
2000 toyota avalon p03030 code
This worked for me for about a year….and I’m getting the code again (no perceivable detonation). My connection may have come loose. I’ll check this weekend and perhaps try wiring them all together like @Jayden did.
hey Shawn, have a nice friday, bro, does P0325 feels like hesitation? can be repair by your method? does this fix brings back hp? i thought bank 1 could control retarding timing, and bank 2 gives advance to the engine, any advice? can be bolted on another part direct to the engine block?
How is it working as year 2020
Was your car not starting before you did the mod
This trick only works for approx 4months until the ecu gets confused basically then shuts of power to bank 1
Hey how did it turn out after you did all that to your Toyota 4Runner
so how is it been running since you did all that till this day...
Having the same problems on my Toyota 4Runner ... Thinking of doing the same thing you did on your 4Runner...
still working good
The reason you had to wire them together was because every knock sensor is located in different parts ok the engine, you placed them all on one beaker.
Hey man I did this in my 2001 and now I’m having a misfire somewhere without a code
*v6
I have tried this. Didn’t work. Maybe both my sensor is broken
Most of the time it's not the sensors. Instead its the short wiring harness going from the sensors to the main wiring harness. Sorry but the intake manifold has to come off. Then you have to replace both sensors and the short wiring harness. You should also replace the bypass hose while you have the manifold off. And use original OEM parts and not aftermarket parts from the auto parts store. Otherwise the problem might not go away or it will come back again soon after.
So will this stop my engine from pinging and losing power?
It a V6 bro!! Wtf
Класс
I wish I can do something like this with my rx300 Lexus .
I would never like that kind of work done on my car. Do the right repair people
I did it to my rx300 lexus. Locate the computer under the glove compartment and a bunch of wires will be expose. find a black and gray wire on the bottom on the third compartment the lowest end and pull out the wires. Rotate the wires and isolate the black and gray wires and splice the wires in half. The code on my lexus was p0330 knock sensor bank 2 sensor 2. I joint the black and gray wires together close to the ECU computer and the cut gray wire from the other all together leaving the other black wire isolated or not connected. This fixed my problem no more CEL code.
@@artistdukes1 I have a 2000 Avalon with 200K. The right repair is a 20 dollar fix that makes the car work fine for another 200K miles without spending 800 dollars to "do the right repair."
@@cobana6490 - I’m about to try this on my RX300 as well. How is the repair holding up? Does it pass emissions? Any downsides? Thanks!
@@mikeingraham611 The downside is that the engine could be experiencing undetected engine knock because both knock sensors aren't working like they should. It might seem fine for a while but there could be pre-ignition occurring inside the combustion chambers that could eventually cause major damage inside the engine.
That 3.4 engine IS NOT a V8.
Who cares about that part? This guy is giving terrible advice to ignorant people on RUclips.
@@tbagwell wtf are u here. That’s how stupid u are
@@tbagwell Correct. This is a modification to the engine's control system that could eventually destroy the engine.