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Nice video man. I appreciate you taking your time out to show everyone whom wants and needs to know

This actually worked for me! Thanks legend.

Spoiler: He never lets us know how it goes

It a V6 bro!! Wtf

Why wont the inserts pull out of the threads like the bolts did? Bolt threads are steel. Inserts are steel. If the bolts pulled out of the threads, good chance the inserts will pull out too. Itd be nice if the threads started right at the top of the block so that way itll grab ALL the threads on the bolts. Or make threads in the existing holes and then get bolts that size.

Was your car not starting before you did the mod

Send it! Lol.

Hey man I did this in my 2001 and now I’m having a misfire somewhere without a code

Good idea not using the Allen bolts...mine were in 4 years and couldn't get the allen bolts out...filled with dirt etc but were stuck in the spacer...had to cut them off and not use the leveling kit unfortunately

do you get all the power back after doing this rewire? curious nobody on youtube shows end results of how the vehicles drive after doing these tricks

Did it help removing those butterfly blades in the throttle body. I have this exact bike with 9000 miles on it I've replaced plugs fuel pump an so many other things an it cranks but WILL NOT BUST OFF IT SET FOR 3 YEARS BY THE WAY

Thanks!

Jack stands everyone.

How is it without the butterflies, i want to remove them to?

Right on bro!! Thanks. That certainly simplified things. Great video.

It only takes like 20 mins to take the whole intake manifold off... just a few hoses and 14 mil bolts/nuts... can leave the throttle body on the upper and all hoses will stay bent so u know where they go plus all the bolts just need the goodentite torque spec.. like an hour or two and done deal.. nothing special or gaskets needing replaced unless you fuck one up or something...

Are your nylon lines connected to the rubber lines by clamps?

The problem with doing this type of thing is that if the engine is experiencing detonation or preignition (often called engine knock) the computer won't know about it so it can't retard the timing to eliminate the detonation. Over time continuous undetected engine knock can do major damage inside the engine. This might be okay on a high mileage vehicle when you're just trying to squeeze a few more miles out of it. But on a vehicle you want to keep for a while its very risky.

Shawn...that worked. I put my pressure plate on the floor under a doorway, put a 2" plumbing fitting on it, bottle jack on that, and a board reaching from the bottle jack to the top of the door opening. An assistant would have helped but all my friends are preoccupied. Future videos: 1st, rehearse and review. 2nd, get someone to run the camera while you do the work. Very helpful video nonetheless.

Thanks a million bro, wonderful information. Your first video but great one.

Man you just don't give a f*** lol You did this job with no caution , I guess if it works ,it's whatever?

This trick only works for approx 4months until the ecu gets confused basically then shuts of power to bank 1

I tried paying attention, but i got dizzy just from trying to watch this video.

hey Shawn, have a nice friday, bro, does P0325 feels like hesitation? can be repair by your method? does this fix brings back hp? i thought bank 1 could control retarding timing, and bank 2 gives advance to the engine, any advice? can be bolted on another part direct to the engine block?

I like this guy's ingenuity, but I don't think they make Grade 8 all-thread (or any grade all-thread). Don't think I would trust that. All-thread is typically pretty weak grade steel, with the amount of vibration in the suspension, I bet these break. Maybe just get a kit with good bolts that work correctly.

This is the exact problem I have with my 2002 f-350 7.3 dually. Thank you for doing this video. Do you have part # and or website where I can purchase these speedy sleeve?

So this helped! Thanks but! The orange wire is front tank and green with red is back tank! Only one of my tanks has gas so it was easy to figure it out. Thanks this was a great help

If you don't have the $$ for this repair (2AZFE, 2.4L Toyota Rav4/Scion/Camry ). Symptoms: blown radiator/ blown heater core, heat indicator on dash above normal. Remove the thermostat. Leave the reservoir cap-straw loose ( so boiling gases can escape ). Top off your coolant every week. Change your oil every 3000 miles. You will have a CEL on and will lose MPG. However, the overheating will stop. Save up $$ to get a proper repair. Peace.

Thank you brother

Dude ur my hero

Had you not done this, what would the symptoms had been?

That 3.4 engine IS NOT a V8.

let me know if you took the butterflys off and started that bike it should ha e tried to run wide open

I'm pretty sure that's a V6

And after this, how it goes? My vulcan 900 makes a sound in the servo from the throttle body, i think should replace, but think could be repair

Do you know if the 'outboard' knock sensors are the correct replacement part? We only need one working sensor to supply the signal, which is why your current wire twist mod works. The remaining functional sensor under the intake of your engine is providing the correct signal now. Both of my knock sensors are bad, so I either do the 7 hours of labor to take the top of the engine apart or try your outboard mod. What I'm wondering is if you know for fact if the two you ordered to make your outboard kit were the correct ones? I *think* yours should work - if they are the correct sensors. I also think they will not work by just connecting one to the harness and letting it hang. The sensor case must have firm contact with the block to complete the electrical circuit and measure vibration. As long as the sensor can do that, my theory is that the sensor doesn't care where it is mounted, so long as it's on the block. Your bracket probably supplies the electrical connection, but maybe not. If the sensor is mounted outboard, it probably won't do its intended job, but I don't care because I can control the timing and knock with a piggyback unit on the ECU that I already have.

Great video thanks. I saw that the fuel tanks switched on the D & E terminals of the valve, could you then just bypass the fuel valve connection and run the sending unit wires straight to the dash selector switch leaving out the guage wire? Or, why are these required to be wired through the valve? Nice work! Thanks.

This can be pain to replace I have 2000 rx300 I was getting code for Knock sensor I clean my Harness and works good now

No jack stands 😮

Yep, I have an 85 E350 diesel that needs one. I figured out the wires for the stock harness already and write them down on a piece of paper for later reference. I didn't notice that the ports face wrong, good thing to know. I have an electric fuel pump mounted where the FSV was, so I'll have to mount it somewhere else nearby.

At 0:38 I didn’t know it was self adjusting I looked in the service hole of transmission on mine an the springs on my pressure plate looks the same my clutch must be worn out but doesn’t feel like it tho trucks got 164k on it now

Tried this, no dice. At all. Don’t know what was done differently

You sir, are the real MVP. I was wondering how I was gonna do this without a press and I think this will work as well. Hopefully, I won’t bend any pressure plate fingers. Is the clutch still functioning well with the method used?

I have tried this. Didn’t work. Maybe both my sensor is broken

I'm horrible im working on a infiniti

Класс

It's my truck it's a 16 RAM 😁👌

Thanks for the tip. It’s works been 100 miles no check engine and all the hp back!!!!!

How is it working as year 2020

Can someone tell me if I can do 3.5" without getting any control arms etc? All I have are the raisers for the strutt.