Good news. My Sons just used the truck to tow a 2 ton boat from Mass. To South Caroline in June. No problems with knock sensor or engine performance. Transmission crapped out, but thats a different issue entirely. I stand behind this solution 100% at this point. Truck now has 157k mile on it. At least 10k miles since I did this.
First off, thank you!! I was concerned that bringing the two knock sensor circuits from the ECM together could damage the ECM but after seeing you had long term success with this I bit the bullet and did mine today. Cleared the code and so far it hasn't returned and all is working well. Update: I've been thinking about why bringing the two wires together does no harm, it finally sunk in I think, I believe there is no output from the ECM on these circuits at all, they are simply listening for an output from the knock sensors. The knock sensors being a "piezo" device need no input, they generate an output from the vibrations (noise) that they pick up. Now I can sleep easier, lol. Thanks again, I owe you a beer! :) (2007 Gmc 2500HD Classic 6.0L Gas)
Fantastic video. I 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8. Threw a 0332 Code which was Bank 2 knock sensor. Watched other videos and was sweating removing the top of my engine to get to this. Came across your video because I just knew somebody was smart enough to troubleshoot and do a DIY fix. You did it. I tested both and bank 1 was 99,000 ohms and bank 2 was round 1000. Stripped the insulation, cut the greenish wire (bank 2) and spliced as you described. Retested and both sides of the plug is 99,000 ohms. Cleared the code. I have now driven about 100 miles after this fix and no pending codes and no engine light. You sir are a genius. Thank you for sharing your fix.
Haven't done the fix yet but I've been doing some research for some time now trying to avoid changing them because I knew my engine wasn't the problem. About to start a new job and need my truck to go from Bama to Rhode Island, 350k miles on it.... I do not want my cel on when I leave here..!!!! I leave in less than a week. My hats off to you sir 🙌 great job I like others believed in you even though we didnt know who you were yet lol don't let that go to your head..
BTW here is my 5 year report after doing this fix. I have had 2 California mandated smog checks and both pass with flying colors. Have had no issues whatsoever after applying this DIY fix to my pickup.
Sir you are a genius.. rewired sensor just as you instructed truck is running wonderful no more spark knock and no more trouble code. Have driven 150 MI so far. Thank you so much
Good news. I just completed a midsummer trip to western Colorado. Over 4K miles of hot weather driving. Engine ran perfectly. No knocking and no engine codes. I used 87 octane gas for the whole trip. Drove her up to 10,000 feet of altitude.
I just changed mine before I discovered this video. It REALLY wasn't hard to change them out if you're considering doing it. All you need is an 8 mm, 10mm, and a 22 mm socket plus a few extensions. It's time consuming (about 2 hours if you take your time) but its pretty straightforward. That being said if these sensors mess up I will do this fix! This code will cause a significant loss of power and horrible gas mileage from the computer being confused. Thanks for the vid!
Good luck, sounds crazy but over 50% of these new knock sensors are bad from factory. This is a good method but if u don’t want to cut your wiring, unplug from knock sensor, plug in wiring harness, buy the knock sensors and wiring kit, plug new knock sensor harness into knock sensor lug in harness that your originals were plugged in and run one knock sensor or left head and one to right head, or bank one, bank two, screw knock sensors into bolt holes anywhere on head you can get it easily., clear codes and drive. If it happens again it’s a 15 min fix without any cutting or splicing, and dang sure without having to take intake off.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video, had this happen on my 2007 6.0 yesterday morning, came home watched this video, went outside cut the wires, took it for a drive and after about 15 miles or so the light went off and everybody is happy, you saved me a bunch of time and money whole process took 5 minutes maybe
You're the answer to my problems. I have an '01 Chevy 1500 Z71 and an '06 Chevy 2500 4x4 and BOTH of them have the exact same issue!! I'm sick and tired of clearing that darned DTC code!! Thank you for your clear and explicit instructions without all the extra BS alot of these other DIY RUclips videos have!!
lol yup my 2002 escalade after briefly over taking a car or just doing a brief spirited shot on the road makes my p0332 pop up. then i gotta pull over somewhere and reset it with my scan tool too.. lol glad i wasnt the only one doing this. Im gonna try this method. I love my escalade!
When reading those codes it's important to differentiate a knock sensor fault from a knock sensor circuit fault. Circuit is an important word because it's telling you the fault can be anywhere in the entire circuit including the wires the connectors or the knock sensors. This is true on other codes as well. It's easy to focus on the component but it's necessary to troubleshoot the entire circuit.
If you get these codes it's more than likely going to be the sensor. The rubber gaskets harden up and shrink allowing moisture to get in and corrode the piss out of the sensor. There's a gm bulletin out for these sensors, the solution is RTV the hell out of it. Also, the job is not that hard to do at home. Very simple, the only special tools you will need is the tool to disconnect the fuel lines and an inch pound torque wrench to torque the intake manifold back on.
@@shadowopsairman1583 I seriously doubt it. TSB 02-06-04-023A was released in 2002 yet the same knock sensors are interchangeable between an array of different makes and models and engines between 1999-2007. It doesn't matter if they improved water intrusion around the valley plate, that knock sensor gasket will still shrink up over time. Humid air can corrode the sensor, it doesn't necessarily need to be water.
I have a 2001 Yukon XL. From the day a bought it, I have had an intermittent check engine light. Sometimes it would go off for a long time, sometimes I would cancel. One thing I did notice is that everytime I installed a new battery, the light would go off, leading me to believe there was some kind of a low voltage issue with the sensors. Anyways, I was getting ready to install new knock sensors, which I wasn't all that keen on doing. I did one last Google search and saw your solution. Bingo!! I knew that was my answer. Being a retired electrician, I realized that it was an excellent and simple solution. It's been 3 days now and no check light. I know it saved me $200 if I replaced the sensors or @$800 if my mechanic did it. Thanks Sam, very much Tom
@@SoaringMech Had a code 332, I've already read your tips on making sure the engine doesn't knock. I'm right on top of that, as the Yukon only is used about 3 months a year, but important 3 months. It brings us from snowy NH before it get real bad (snow) to coastal GA in shorts. The last thing I want is issues. Where are you from Sam? When you're outside in your video, it looks like the northeast? Great money saving tip and I love saving money! Tom
@samwashburn Thank you very much for posting this video. I did NOT want to remove the intake manifold, etc. as I simply don't have the time right now. I completed this operation on my 2001 Tahoe (5.3L) last night, and have not had the check engine light since come on since I got done. I got the P0327 code, so I operated under the assumption that my bank #1 sensor was out. I re-routed the blue wire (coming from the female "connection clip" to the green one. This is the opposite of what you did (bank #2 code), but it still worked like a charm. I cut both the green and blue wires about 1.5" from the beginning of the female connector, combined both wires into a 2-to-1 pre-soldered wire connector, then connected the green wire which lead from the sensor. I crimped all my connections, and wrapped everything up in electrical tape for additional stability. I did a minimal amount of heat on the connector (pre-soldered) after crimping, and am hoping the heat from the engine will finish the soldering that came in the wire connectors.
Working just as you said. I checked bank two for resistance,it was 300 ohms. Bank one was 100,000 ohms👍💯 wired them as you instructed. No more PO332 knock sensor code! Thanks a million! This is on my 2005 2500 HD 6.0 ltr. Chevy LS.
Thank you very much. I did this fix this morning. Unbelievable the loss of power I was experiencing over the last 2 days. I would clear the codes and keep my truck under 2500rpms. The minute I had to accelerate any faster it would throw the codes again. I confirmed resistance (35ohms)on bank 2 sensor. And spliced it into bank 1 (104kohms) sensor. I will repair these correctly soon. But this buys me time to get the parts and do it myself. The ECM should have a electronic filter to electronically recognize this. I pulled spark plugs to make sure everything looked great.
Thank you for the video! I was planning on changing mine out this weekend and was on here looking for a how-to video when I ran across yours! Figured it couldn’t hurt to try before taking the intake off. Worked like a charm!
@@pacificxnative8818 worked for about 2 weeks then it quit. Ended up having to change them. It did buy me some time though. It’s actually pretty easy too.
This really works, i have a 04 ls extended cab 2wd and just did this a week ago. There are no knock sensor codes since. if you're on the fence, do it. It works.
The fix worked on my 02 Chevy 2500 hd 6.0. I did use the ohm meter to verify that the 332 code so that I connected the wires to the good sensor and not the bad. I also used a two wire crimp connector (Available at any auto parts store and it is "on the shelf" in the electrical aisle . Box of 4 was $2.49) instead of the wire nut. Took me almost 10 mins. to do it and it saved me hundreds in repairs!
Hi Johnny I was confused on his drawling, because he has bank two in the front and bank one in the back and I thought it was the other way around could you clarify? And I don’t use an ohm meter very much, is there a way you can tell me where to set the dial. Thanks. 🤝
Man O man you rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My truck is burning rubber and even better is actually wanting to haul my trailer!! 😀 we need this man for president!
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!! I've been dreading doing the sensor replacement. Been driving with check engine light on for a year. Emissions inspection is this month. You just saved me from an awful expense. Thank you again. Mike
@@88chargerI too live in commiefornia and need to smog it in a few weeks but being in a cast from recent tfcc repair and wrist surgery I can't replace the parts as I did before. What made it fail? Did the smog machine label it "tampered" or did the smog tech see the bypass and not pass it?
After a day and a half of no luck removing bank 2’s frozen knock sensor, I think you’ve saved me! Of course I’ve got to reinstall the intake and all wire harness’s etc etc. I’ll get back to you on the results
Thank you Mr. Washburn for a terrific solution to a time and money heavy problem. I had a stroke a while back and can no longer do a lot of things I used to, but can swing messing with a few wires. And being on disability, certainly cannot afford a shop, so your solution knocks both of these out of the park so thanks again! Hit a curious bit though- am showing the good ol' 332 code, but in checking the resistance, one shows 99k and the other 104k, well within range for each, so I thought I'd see what your thoughts were.
The 332 code is saying that the ECM does not like one of the sensors. I believe it want to see the resistance varying as the sensor heats up. Just follow the steps in my video and the code should disappear. Your one working knock sensor will do the work of both without a problem. Let me know how it goes. Sorry to hear about the stroke, but glad ur able to stay active.
Thank you for the simple, easy to understand, reasoning and fix. When my knock sensor (bank 2) failed the first time, local dealer wanted $1,200 to fix. That's understandable (but not acceptable) considering location of sensor and common dealer hourly shop rates. They quoted 4 hours to fix. I took 12 hours but cleaned all removed parts (intake, injectors, fuel rail, etc). The problem as you mentioned, was a bad hood weatherstripping causing rain or washing water to run down back side of engine, fill the knock sensor well and short out the sensor (or break the circuit if you will). I just got a fault reading again on the same sensor and was not looking forward to another top end redo.
Glad it worked. Just keep the engine tuned and clean and you’ll be fine with one or zero knock sensors. I’ve been putting a lot of miles on my Silverado this year. Running like new.
@@SoaringMech I did this fix exactly how you described and wife just texted me saying the light is back on! Super bummed because this has been a nightmare dealing with the shop I bought my truck from. I haven't double checked my wire connections but I soldered them so I doubt they're bad. My question is, is there anything else that can cause this code to come back on??
@@SoaringMech Sam, thank you for your reply. This is what I get for watching the video at different times. Bank 1 has failed on my truck and I just rewatched this and realized your truck was bank 2! Just switched the wires and I should be good now I'm hoping 😂. Now I wonder if the light will turn itself off or if I should just reset it anyway..
Thank you very much sir, I've done this before on a different vehicle but didn't know exactly how the knock sensors communicate with the ECU. After seeing your video and reading a few comments I now know, same type of crystal that's in a clicker lighter, smack it with an out of tune frequency and it's gonna spark that check engine light.
Worked like a charM!! Only modification I made was to the small replaceable knock sensor harness itself. Just chopped it in 2 a couple of inches from the single connector, tied green and blue together in one end of a butt slice connector and the bank one Blue wire to the opposite end. abandoning the green Bank 2 ks wire( my code called no.2 bad) so its easily done and undone if needed. Glad I found your video and thanks!
Thank you Mr. Sam! You sure made my day and made it possible for my family to take a vacation. Your modification got me running without worry! Will look at the system when I get home!
Thanks Sam. It worked as it should. Tricked the computer fair and square. LOL I also made a video and referenced your videos as well. I have all new parts coming. Going to replace everything I can while I have the intake manifold off. But in the meantime, truck is running without the engine light coming on. Thanks again.
Great video it showed me how to save a ton of money i took my trailblazer to get a inspection and it failed the inspection so i did the bypass like you said and no more problems and it passed inspection thanks for this great video...
You’re the best, just got new manifold gaskets 2 days before knock sensor code came up (didn’t replace them at the same time like an idiot) and this bypass took 10 min and solved my P0332
So glad too hear it worked for you. Mine is still going strong after more than two years and 20k miles. Running like new. We have verified that the knock sensors are redundant so you only need one working one.
This is a 45min job. I did one yesterday, and 2 weeks ago. One fuel line, i vacuum hose, unplug all the injectors, remove intake, the rest is fairly self explanatory. 2hrs at most if u have to watch or read instructions while doing it. I did it in 45min while having full blown conversation with the owner of the vehicle.
This worked great, I actually got 2 connectors w wire on each end from the junkyard . Took a Female socket w wires attached , taped off the blue and attached the green to both green and blue wires attached to a male socket then just added added it to existing , Factory wires are uncut and new piece is less than 6" and tucks out of the way
See my response to other comments about how to make sure your engine doesn’t knock. cheap to do. With just one sensor working now you want be sure she does not knock.
this video couldn't of come at a better time. I'm getting a p0332 code usually in the mornings when i accelerate spiritedly for a brief moment it pops up, then i just reset it with my scan tool and everything is fine. I think I'm gonna do this too. On my 2002 Escalade AWD 6.0.. cause man some days my truck drives fast then a bout 2 months later the p0332 code comes back. lol ill deff try this out
I'm going to try this u just paid a lot of money to have both knock sensors replaced and a few months later code came back . And it was fun at a GM dealership
Thanks so much!! I did this after replacing both knock sensors, 2 months later P0327 came back. I sure didnt want to have to pay a mechanic to do this again so I took this short cut, problem solved. 2004, 4.8 has power again and the wife is happy once more!
Michael Smith when you say you tried everything did you actually replace the bad knock sensor and harness? I’m just wondering...not trying to be a smart ass 😁
Unfortunately this bypass didn't work me. I replaced both sensors and the harness with RTV in my driveway. Took about 3 hours. I had the rear sensor (p0327) fail and the forward sensor as a pending fault. I appreciate you taking the time to post a temporary solution to this all too common issue.
Very clever and for all u saying it’s bad come on now if u can’t tell a difference in ur engine when it comes to knocking and YIUR counting on a sensor to inform you go trade in for a Prius
Sam...thank you, thank you. I've been staring at the engine for almost a week now hoping it would simply fix itself. The thought of pulling the intake off sends shivers up my spine, not that I couldn't do it but rather I simply don't want to. Mechanic quoted $1200 and I figure it this way; if I can fix it for say $100 I will use the remaining $1100 on fishing lures. 😋 on the serious side, I purchased the parts and noticed the new wiring harness is the opposite of what you showed. The harness is the female side and had that little metal clip to mount it like the old one. The male side runs over the top of the manifold and is included in a large bundle if wires down the firewall. I'm pretty sure I know the answer but was hoping you had received other inquiries regarding the same, or other viewers would chime in if they had the same setup. I figure I'll hold onto the new parts in the case I have to go all the way to replace them but sure like your method. Again I'm 99% sure but like my dad always told me "measure twice and cut once."
What your describing is the same as on my truck and the same as shown in the diagram in my video. My solution should work for you. Sorry for the late reply.
Thank You Sir.Need to get truck inspected and wont have time to replace knock sensors for a few weeks.Your bypass option is real straight forward and very doable.Than You very very much for you time and tutorial.
So it all makes sense and no more codes - great idea. I found you because I ran a search, "can u run the engine without working knock sensors". So it begs the question, should you run your engine with only one knock sensor? Can u damage your engine.
Nevermind I read your other responses. I treat this engine with sever care. It runs better now then it did when I bought it 200k miles ago. I tow nothing with it and not worried about knocking at all. Seafoam in the oil from time to time, sprayed into throttle body as well and in the gas tank. Plugs and wires are done every 50k miles. They are perfect. No issues. Runs perfect. Will be doing this fix in short order. Thanks again. Will follow through with your fix and move on with life.
@@2009adtommydon't run seafoam IN your oil. Seafoam is a proprietary blend of many things, a few of them being very efficient detergents. Great for removing varnish and carbon on your fuel delivery and combustion chambers, also really good at cleaning buildup and gunk off the walls and sump bottom and bottom end of piston heads, rods, and all the other components down in the lower end of the engine of buildup and muck left by years of heated and taxed motor oils. But it shouldn't be left in and run for extensive amounts of time. Add it in right before an oil change, to where you drive about 30-40 miles with it mixed in with your oil. You should NOT run it over 70-80 in any case though. 30-40 miles with it mixed is ideal, that can be had over multiple short trips or one longer one. Once you've crested that 30-40 then change your oil. The added seafoam, after working its magic of "scrubbing"all the moving and non moving parts and portions of the engines oil lubricated parts and partitions is then drained out along with all the contained used oil. This is how its meant to be used, and is how its most efficiently, used. It is NOT meant to be an additive to add to your new oil and then LEAVE in your crankcase mixed in with the oil. The reason being is that old, vintage oil did not have all the additives and detergents that modern engine oil does. It was actually quite filthy stuff and tended to gum up and clog up ports and pass through and filtering screens as well as pumps and left plenty of build up on the interior working parts. Seafoam was invented and utilized to combat this back in the day, most especially in marine applications, hence the name. But adding it and leaving it in to run with MODERN Engine oil sees that there is TOO much detergent in the oil percentage wise per volume and actually images it to a level that the detergents become problematic by stripping the effectiveness of the oil to cling to and coat all the mechanisms and moving parts, seeing to it that they are actually receiving LESS lubrication overall as its stripping the oils ability to coat and cling to these said parts leading to premature failure and excessive wear from friction due to the inability of the oil to do its function of clinging to and coating moving parts and those which have minute clearances between each other. Where it DOES perform as an additive though, is in your fuel tank. Add about a half a can of it to a 25+ gallon tank and run the WHOLE tank till you just nudge the "E" hash and then fill up. Does wonders on the fuel delivery system.
What a great tip, although after paying local tech $800 to replace the sensors (along with replacing plugs and wires) on my 2012 GMC. Took my truck back twice after the fix and the light still returns. He's stated that he will use more expensive OEM parts if the problem returns. However, the inconvenience is tempting me to do this fix myself. I assume that if both knock sensors are bad, this fix won't work. Thank You.
Game brother. That's so simple. I have been struggling with how to fix this problem for two years. Thank you. Yes it would be better to replace the sensor but now at least if the light comes on I'll know something else is wrong as before as before I just ignored the light so this is better than that. Thanks again. Good through video.
See my response to other comments about how to make sure your engine doesn’t knock. cheap to do. With just one sensor working now you want be sure she does not knock.
Another thing the water will do once in the knock well, is allow an easier path to ground. It fills up the well to its capacity, and inevitably makes its way to the metal in the single wire connection. Then when the PCM checks the resistance it sees that different path with its 5vdc / 2.5vdc probe signal. I actually just got done doing this job (on my own truck, done lots on other) and the code came back for the same damn bank 2 sensor after a week and a half. I did the silicone dam and seal TSB trick, as usual. But I did, in my haste, forget to silicone where the wire goes through the rubber grommet. I'm quite sure that's where the mystery water (no clue where enough came from at this point) made its way in. Honestly, I always assumed the ECM, PCM, ECU... whatever you want to call it, would be happy with running these in parallel, but no search criteria could find anyone talking about it... until you, right now, in this video. I'm so happy to have this confirmed for me, thank you very much for the video! I'll be modding the harness to make bank one stand in for one and two tomorrow morning. Dumbest freaking design ever. . . And I can't believe that after that whole days work, all the cleaning, all the sealing, all the redoing of every damn thing from the airbox to tubing to manifold to heads to valley to all of it... all of that work for a week and a half, then back to BS. I probably won't even bother fixing it the right way, unless bank one poops out. Because you FOR SURE don't want to run without knock detection with these engines. But until then, Imma just call this fix pure gold, and keep it going with that alone.
It’s been over two years now and the engine is running as good as ever. The only thing I changed is I never let water get under the hood anymore. In the old days I used to rinse the road salt off the engine in the spring and that’s what queered the first knock sensor. The second sensor is continue to work fine after 15 years. You’ll be fine running on one sensor.
Very helpful thank you I have a 2005 6.0 it is doing the exact thing you are talking about I will try this today It will save me $2000 from the dealer thank you
I finally got around and bypass my knock sensor on my Chevy truck as of today seems to be working perfectly fine I do appreciate your knowledge And you sharing it with people thank you again
Responding to highlighter: yes if money is no object, have a dealer replace the bad sensor for $500-1000. That’s not an option for most of us. The fact is you can hear a knocking engine yourself and fix the problem: replace plugs, clean cylinders, increase octane of the fuel. If the sensor detects knock and changes the timing to avoid it, you will lose power and fuel mileage. Better to know it’s happening and and fix the root cause imho. Also, I’m guessing that in the vortex with two sensors, the working sensor will detect most knocking that occurs, and adjust the timing. So bypassing the dead sensor is probably not risking anything. I could be wrong on that. In any case my Silverado is running great 3 months later with no check engine light and no knocking. Plenty of power on 87 octane fuel.
theirs not always somethin wrong, the knock sensors literally Are one of the parts used to adjust timing, its in case somethin elses wrong, so their crimpling their engine from the start but if u can hear it for urself then yea theirs definitely something wrong
Travis Miller that assumption that you can hear all the things that the computer is tuned to listen for with the knock sensor implies you can do the job of the computer better than the computer can. I still say the several times more replacement engine is a huge gamble to bypass a knock sensor.
Monte Walsh please provide your electrical engineering background! You pretend ti know more than the GM engineers and perhaps you do, but please when you give an opinion that differs, please provide where you went to school for your engineering degree and your work experience to support your opinion!
@@coypatton3160 you obviously have never worked on a car pre computer age. Got to remember motors used to not use computers for timing and fuel back when i use to run cars with carbs the compression ratio of the motor and jet size holes with fuel metering rods and special type of springs in my edelbrock 4barrel carb would give my sbc all the right fuel they need and never pinged or knocked what u would have to do is turn distributer to point of pinged then back off a little bit tighted the hold down screw and ur done and of course drive the shit out the car at wide open throttle park it pull out plugs and see if motor is being lean or plugs to hot or to cold and etc if the motor is built right and ur using the right octane for that compression ratio there should be absolutely no knocking 👍
Danny Morales how all knowing you think you are! You know nothing about me but know everything about me!How can this be? Only 1 way I know of! You got on the key board and removed all doubt! You imply that today’s motors are the equivalent of motors from from the 70’ and before! Proof of your foolishness! Too believe that you can hear and issue, properly interpret that issue and respond to that issue as quickly as a computer (such as adjusting timing) is the ultimate in ...... Enjoy ruining that modern largely aluminum engine! It is not near as forgiving as the old all case iron one you claim I never worked on, FOOL!
I’m going to give this a shot in the morning. I’ve had mine replaced about a year ago and once again Bank 2 screwed up. It’s getting g harder and harder to find competent mechanics where I live so I’m gonna have to take matters into my own hands from here in out. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thank you sir for this video.
Great video! My brother and I planing on replacing them on his truck this weekend. I'm going to suggest, we bypass them. It will saved us a lot of time and a little bit of money too. We can definitely use that money to buy beer instead. Lol! Thank you sir.
The video shows you how to bypass a bad knock sensor for bank 2 (code p0332). If bank 1 sensor is bad (code p0327), connect both wires from the female connector to the green wire coming from the knock sensors under the intake manifold.
Can I do this BEFORE it goes to the connector, meaning coming from the sensors to the connector? (opposite of what is displayed here, the other side of the connector) I hate to hack on the wires that come up from the computer to connect to the harness for the sensors. You can always replace the sensor harness but I am not sure about the other side going to the computer.
Sam nice work. I have already changed mine twice and still get code returning. I understand the jumper between the 2 wires coming from the knock sensors...but what do you do with the long end of the wire severed to make the short jumper? A cut wire creates 2 separate ends, right? Unclear to me, thanks.
@@ole5539 the cut wire that goes to the dead knock sensor doesn’t matter. Just secure to something out of the way so it doesn’t interfere with anything. Good luck
Love your idea only problem ive already replaced knock sensors and harness reset pcm but when i pull a heavy load with tow package mode on it flips code p0332 or itll flip bank 2 catalist system inefficient code so question is do i need to change out my new knock sensor or could my catalytic converter be the issue as in fouled or honeycomb blown out either way causing improper back pressure just asking cause i hate to replace new parts if it may not solve the problem
The first thing I would try is use 93 octane gas when pulling a heavy load. Also make sure you spark plugs aren’t worn out and use product to flush the carbon out of the heads. In other words make sure the engine is clean and well tuned. Won’t cost you much. Clean your mass airflow sensor and replace air filter if it’s old too. Good luck
2001 Sierra 4.8 I disconnected my wire connector and with ohm meter found the front ( lt blue) was bad, rear ( drk blue) was 100.7 Kohms. Temove the clip from the rear of the connector for the wires going to the sensors. insert a pin above the male connector and it is easily pulled back & out. I used a scotchlock connector to splice the wires together- I removed the plastic block from the connector so the "bad" wire would go right through as i want to leave the pin on - in case I have to go in later i will replace the sensor and then i can restore the wiring to stock. the pin I covered with a piece of tubing and sealed- thanks for the video! Test driving coming up...
Would it be possible to make a small copper pin shaped like a staple and place it into the female connector to join the two sides together inside when its plugged together? Ima experiment with that! Whether it works or not thanks for the info that inspired my mod!!!
I replaced the two sensors'wire harnesse and intake gaskets for around $200 and about three hours not a bad job if you watch a few how to videos on RUclips
Unfortionatly i did the same on a 99 silverado replaced both knock sensors and the wiring. That was not bad of a job true but still have the code for it so ima try this method
Sam- I worked this from the male end of connector on my 2004 5.3 Avalanche. I have a 332 code, bank 2 rear. Ohmed both to ground, got 100k ohm on blue wire, 15k ohms on green wire. Pulled back some insulation on the blue wire (male side of plug going back to the ECM). Cut the green wire and spliced it into the blue wire on the male side of the plug. Left the cut green wire going back to the ECM hanging. Green wire from male plug is now spliced into blue wire that goes back to ECM. Sound right?
Clint Williams . No. Bank 1 is good so you leave the blue wire intact. Take the cut green wire from the ecm and splice it into the intact blue wire and you should be good to go. Let me know if it works. Mine has been fine for 6 months with this solution. No codes.
I wonder if putting new sensors on side of block or head and running a new wire harness ( which they recommend anyway)from the sensor back to the ecm connector
I hope someone will answer. Isn't this just a band-aid to get your through emissions? Doesnt the second knock sensor problem need to be addressed? I mean, there are two knock sensors for a reason, right? Now you only have one functional one. Sooner rather than later, shouldn't you be replacing the bad knock sensor? And wiring it back correctly?
Mr. Washburn, I know you have had much praise over this ingenious method, and so far, I want to add my praise as well. I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500, and had recently replaced the knock sensors due to the same code, only to have it return just a few months later. I also did the RTV around the cups, to no avail. I just did this today, and drove to test, and no codes to report so far, so thank you. I am experiencing a very slight rough idle. Plugs have been changed, as well as oil, and I can't quite figure it out. I was thinking perhaps O2 sensors, since I have no clue how old the current ones are, but would that not throw its own code? At any rate, many thanks.
The slightly rough idle wouldn’t be related to the knock sensors or knocking. How old are the spark plug wires? That could be it. Or possibly a valve that isn’t seating properly in one cylinder at low rpm. Or a slightly clogged fuel injector. (Run injector cleaner through the gas). There is also a separate path for the intake air at idle that passes through the idle control valve. Those can get dirty and sticky and would affect the idle. Those are easy to remove and clean.
Thank you for showing this video I have a 2001 chevy tahoe 5.3 I had water in bank 2 and I change both sensors and harness the first time with Dorman part from O'reilly 2 months later light cam back for the bank 2 again. And never would stay off but was a time or so that the light would go off one's a while. So I did it again recently and put ACDELCO sensors and the harness again. Clear the light and bam back on for 3rd time bank 2 I will try this out. One's again thank for this .
Sorry you had to do so much work and expense. My solution will work because your Bank 1 sensor is working. Your bank two socket threads are probably rusted and preventing good ground for the new sensors you installed there. You’ll be fine with one working sensor. MY truck is still running fine.
@@SoaringMech I know Sam this is driving me crazy lol did the bypass but then they both came on . And I take the main Harness apart were the Harness plugs into the harness for the sensors all the way back to the PCM/ECM. And tested with my continuity tester and I was getting good signal through both wires through the pigtail connector on the plug end going to the ECM/PCM . So then after I was thinking maybe the connector that connects the Sensors Was getting bad connection when plugged together so I cut it off and did a hardwire through both .But once again now both come back on for the check engine light could it be the PCM/ECM going bad?. Or also maybe the sensors I ordered both packaged with the right part number AC Delco where off of eBay maybe they're not good quality ?. Do you think I need to buy from the dealership?. I think you might be right about bank 2 having rust in the threads for the water sitting in at the longest. Any ideas? I live in California so smog is very high over here and I have one more year before I have to smog it but I still would like to see the check engine light off .I have no other codes ever come up on this truck it's been a good truck One thing I did notice after doing the hardwire the truck light stayed off longer and there was no pending codes. but after Stepping on the throttle hard last night then I noticed that both came But both say low voltage . so I'm not sure if I got A knock in the engine but it runs too darn good sitting at a 134000 miles .And no noises clicking or knocking sounds.
@@michaelsturm2828 after you did the bypass since codes came on for both sensors, I’m guessing that you spliced both wires to the bad sensor. All you need to do is go back and splice both wires to the good sensor (Bank 1). Let me know how it goes.
@@SoaringMech The bad sensor was the green wire I cut the greenwire . And the plug that plugs into the sensors I connect to the greenwire to the blue one left the greenwire unconnected going to the sensor Bank 2
Well explained sir. My question is: The green and blue wires , do they supply voltage from the ECM to the sensors or the ground is supplied from the sensors to the ECM ?
Ecm supplies voltage and the circuit connects to ground via the pisoelectric component in the knock sensor which alters the resistance of the circuit when the engine knocks. The ECM senses that alteration and concludes it must adjust spark timing because the cylinder is knocking. Hope this is helpful.
After replacing knock censors you must reset code. Turn off vehicle. Start it up and rev the engine over 5,000 RPMs for computer to register knock sensors new harmonic frequency. Or knock codes will keep coming back. Hope this helps.
If I may , a couple of questions: Have I understood correctly that there is no signal sent to the ECM that adjusts the ignition timing other than it generates a signal that is converted to a code and nothing more?? I hear nothing abnormal , I have normal acceleration and have not had any reduction of MPG going on about 6 weeks now. I suspect I did have water seep into the sensor area during a power wash. Have you altered your concerns about engine damage since this video? Thank you
Good Questions. I made another video about engine damage and stand by what’s in that video. regarding your question: The ECM monitors the knock sensors. When one of them signals a knock, the ECM figures out which cylinder knocked and then it adjusts the spark timing for that cylinder to try and eliminate or reduce the knocking to prevent damage to that cylinder. I am quite sure at this point that one working knock sensor will get the job done. The second one is for redundancy.
temporary fix. i wondered if this would work when the code came up. honestly spending the money to fix it is my biggest deal. putting good parts in isn't cheap. i'm scared of the cheap stuff online. pulling the intake isn't a big deal on these trucks. i've already replaced gaskets on that truck. it of course threw the code after lol. i'll probably do this to get by for awhile but i'd like both to be working. if 1 was fine, i'm sure 1 would have been used. then again, knock sensors weren't commonly used until fairly recently. we got by without them for many years and i drive one without them every day to work.
Ok. P0327 means your bank 1 sensor is bad. The blue wire goes to bank 1. So cut the blue wire and splice it into the green wire which goes to your bank 2 sensor which is good. Do NOT cut the green wire. It needs to go all the way back to the computer. Good luck. Let me know how it goes.
@@demarcocb4240 do the opposite for bank 2 do not cut the blue wire cut the green, in other words leave the good bank/wire intact and splice the bad one to it.
I have a question. When you are testing to see which nox is working is the engine running or the key switch on to get the ohms? Will it give a ohms reading with the battery disconnected? Thank you for making this
Good news. My Sons just used the truck to tow a 2 ton boat from Mass. To South Caroline in June. No problems with knock sensor or engine performance. Transmission crapped out, but thats a different issue entirely. I stand behind this solution 100% at this point. Truck now has 157k mile on it. At least 10k miles since I did this.
The transmission failing on a Chevy certainly does NOT surprise me, the fact it even made it to 157k miles DOES! 😳😂
First off, thank you!! I was concerned that bringing the two knock sensor circuits from the ECM together could damage the ECM but after seeing you had long term success with this I bit the bullet and did mine today. Cleared the code and so far it hasn't returned and all is working well. Update: I've been thinking about why bringing the two wires together does no harm, it finally sunk in I think, I believe there is no output from the ECM on these circuits at all, they are simply listening for an output from the knock sensors. The knock sensors being a "piezo" device need no input, they generate an output from the vibrations (noise) that they pick up. Now I can sleep easier, lol. Thanks again, I owe you a beer! :)
(2007 Gmc 2500HD Classic 6.0L Gas)
Awesome response. I was thinking the same thing about the voltage or feedback, but that makes perfect sense..
That or else there always sending the proper amount of ohms and when that ohm load goes out of range it fires the check engine light
I'm about to try it
I had the same concern, so thank you for making it clear so as not to worry .👍
Fantastic video. I 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8. Threw a 0332 Code which was Bank 2 knock sensor. Watched other videos and was sweating removing the top of my engine to get to this. Came across your video because I just knew somebody was smart enough to troubleshoot and do a DIY fix. You did it. I tested both and bank 1 was 99,000 ohms and bank 2 was round 1000. Stripped the insulation, cut the greenish wire (bank 2) and spliced as you described. Retested and both sides of the plug is 99,000 ohms. Cleared the code. I have now driven about 100 miles after this fix and no pending codes and no engine light. You sir are a genius. Thank you for sharing your fix.
Haven't done the fix yet but I've been doing some research for some time now trying to avoid changing them because I knew my engine wasn't the problem. About to start a new job and need my truck to go from Bama to Rhode Island, 350k miles on it.... I do not want my cel on when I leave here..!!!! I leave in less than a week. My hats off to you sir 🙌 great job I like others believed in you even though we didnt know who you were yet lol don't let that go to your head..
BTW here is my 5 year report after doing this fix. I have had 2 California mandated smog checks and both pass with flying colors. Have had no issues whatsoever after applying this DIY fix to my pickup.
@@kevinliles9870 Kevin this fixed my issue and after driving and on it for 5 years - No issues what so ever and even passed our smog test 2 times.
Here's another "Thank YOU!", Sam. I hope you're doing well and seeing these from all the people you helped save so much money.
Glad it was helpful to you. Many people have sent me thoughtful messages.
Sir you are a genius.. rewired sensor just as you instructed truck is running wonderful no more spark knock and no more trouble code. Have driven 150 MI so far. Thank you so much
How yo did my light came back on
@@luiscortez1624 did you figure it out because my light came back on too
Good news. I just completed a midsummer trip to western Colorado. Over 4K miles of hot weather driving. Engine ran perfectly. No knocking and no engine codes. I used 87 octane gas for the whole trip. Drove her up to 10,000 feet of altitude.
Sam, you articulated the instructions clearly and concisely, and even I could understand them. Thank you for your guidance.
I just changed mine before I discovered this video. It REALLY wasn't hard to change them out if you're considering doing it. All you need is an 8 mm, 10mm, and a 22 mm socket plus a few extensions. It's time consuming (about 2 hours if you take your time) but its pretty straightforward. That being said if these sensors mess up I will do this fix! This code will cause a significant loss of power and horrible gas mileage from the computer being confused. Thanks for the vid!
Good luck, sounds crazy but over 50% of these new knock sensors are bad from factory.
This is a good method but if u don’t want to cut your wiring, unplug from knock sensor, plug in wiring harness, buy the knock sensors and wiring kit, plug new knock sensor harness into knock sensor lug in harness that your originals were plugged in and run one knock sensor or left head and one to right head, or bank one, bank two, screw knock sensors into bolt holes anywhere on head you can get it easily., clear codes and drive. If it happens again it’s a 15 min fix without any cutting or splicing, and dang sure without having to take intake off.
This works long term? Plugging knock sensors into the heads?
@@jacksonfev it does make sense because that's how other manufacturers do it.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video, had this happen on my 2007 6.0 yesterday morning, came home watched this video, went outside cut the wires, took it for a drive and after about 15 miles or so the light went off and everybody is happy, you saved me a bunch of time and money whole process took 5 minutes maybe
Let me tell you something Sir, you are a genius
You're the answer to my problems. I have an '01 Chevy 1500 Z71 and an '06 Chevy 2500 4x4 and BOTH of them have the exact same issue!! I'm sick and tired of clearing that darned DTC code!! Thank you for your clear and explicit instructions without all the extra BS alot of these other DIY RUclips videos have!!
lol yup my 2002 escalade after briefly over taking a car or just doing a brief spirited shot on the road makes my p0332 pop up. then i gotta pull over somewhere and reset it with my scan tool too.. lol glad i wasnt the only one doing this. Im gonna try this method. I love my escalade!
When reading those codes it's important to differentiate a knock sensor fault from a knock sensor circuit fault. Circuit is an important word because it's telling you the fault can be anywhere in the entire circuit including the wires the connectors or the knock sensors. This is true on other codes as well. It's easy to focus on the component but it's necessary to troubleshoot the entire circuit.
If you get these codes it's more than likely going to be the sensor. The rubber gaskets harden up and shrink allowing moisture to get in and corrode the piss out of the sensor.
There's a gm bulletin out for these sensors, the solution is RTV the hell out of it.
Also, the job is not that hard to do at home. Very simple, the only special tools you will need is the tool to disconnect the fuel lines and an inch pound torque wrench to torque the intake manifold back on.
@@idabomb00i wonder if they improved them after the tsb release
@@shadowopsairman1583 I seriously doubt it. TSB 02-06-04-023A was released in 2002 yet the same knock sensors are interchangeable between an array of different makes and models and engines between 1999-2007.
It doesn't matter if they improved water intrusion around the valley plate, that knock sensor gasket will still shrink up over time. Humid air can corrode the sensor, it doesn't necessarily need to be water.
I have a 2001 Yukon XL. From the day a bought it, I have had an intermittent check engine light. Sometimes it would go off for a long time, sometimes I would cancel. One thing I did notice is that everytime I installed a new battery, the light would go off, leading me to believe there was some kind of a low voltage issue with the sensors.
Anyways, I was getting ready to install new knock sensors, which I wasn't all that keen on doing. I did one last Google search and saw your solution. Bingo!! I knew that was my answer. Being a retired electrician, I realized that it was an excellent and simple solution. It's been 3 days now and no check light. I know it saved me $200 if I replaced the sensors or @$800 if my mechanic did it.
Thanks Sam, very much
Tom
Glad it worked for you. You had a 332 or 327 code. I just got back from a 4200 mile trip to colorarado. Engine ran flawlessly.
See my other comments about how to make sure your engine doesn’t knock
@@SoaringMech Had a code 332, I've already read your tips on making sure the engine doesn't knock. I'm right on top of that, as the Yukon only is used about 3 months a year, but important 3 months. It brings us from snowy NH before it get real bad (snow) to coastal GA in shorts. The last thing I want is issues. Where are you from Sam? When you're outside in your video, it looks like the northeast?
Great money saving tip and I love saving money!
Tom
Tom Cummings I live in northern massachusetts
@samwashburn Thank you very much for posting this video. I did NOT want to remove the intake manifold, etc. as I simply don't have the time right now. I completed this operation on my 2001 Tahoe (5.3L) last night, and have not had the check engine light since come on since I got done. I got the P0327 code, so I operated under the assumption that my bank #1 sensor was out. I re-routed the blue wire (coming from the female "connection clip" to the green one. This is the opposite of what you did (bank #2 code), but it still worked like a charm. I cut both the green and blue wires about 1.5" from the beginning of the female connector, combined both wires into a 2-to-1 pre-soldered wire connector, then connected the green wire which lead from the sensor. I crimped all my connections, and wrapped everything up in electrical tape for additional stability. I did a minimal amount of heat on the connector (pre-soldered) after crimping, and am hoping the heat from the engine will finish the soldering that came in the wire connectors.
Working just as you said. I checked bank two for resistance,it was 300 ohms. Bank one was 100,000 ohms👍💯 wired them as you instructed. No more PO332 knock sensor code! Thanks a million! This is on my 2005 2500 HD 6.0 ltr. Chevy LS.
@@socalives glad to hear it worked. Good luck
Thank you very much. I did this fix this morning. Unbelievable the loss of power I was experiencing over the last 2 days. I would clear the codes and keep my truck under 2500rpms. The minute I had to accelerate any faster it would throw the codes again. I confirmed resistance (35ohms)on bank 2 sensor. And spliced it into bank 1 (104kohms) sensor. I will repair these correctly soon. But this buys me time to get the parts and do it myself. The ECM should have a electronic filter to electronically recognize this. I pulled spark plugs to make sure everything looked great.
Excellent information thank you
Thank you for the video! I was planning on changing mine out this weekend and was on here looking for a how-to video when I ran across yours! Figured it couldn’t hurt to try before taking the intake off. Worked like a charm!
This really works?
@@pacificxnative8818 worked for about 2 weeks then it quit. Ended up having to change them. It did buy me some time though. It’s actually pretty easy too.
This really works, i have a 04 ls extended cab 2wd and just did this a week ago. There are no knock sensor codes since. if you're on the fence, do it. It works.
7:21 Bypass instructions start here, if you need to learn about knock sensors and their operation start the video from the beginning
Bless
The fix worked on my 02 Chevy 2500 hd 6.0. I did use the ohm meter to verify that the 332 code so that I connected the wires to the good sensor and not the bad. I also used a two wire crimp connector (Available at any auto parts store and it is "on the shelf" in the electrical aisle . Box of 4 was $2.49) instead of the wire nut. Took me almost 10 mins. to do it and it saved me hundreds in repairs!
Thank you sir! I rewired my 2004 Suburban 5.3, 250k miles as you showed and works perfectly!! Thank you again!
Hi Johnny I was confused on his drawling, because he has bank two in the front and bank one in the back and I thought it was the other way around could you clarify? And I don’t use an ohm meter very much, is there a way you can tell me where to set the dial. Thanks. 🤝
Man O man you rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My truck is burning rubber and even better is actually wanting to haul my trailer!! 😀 we need this man for president!
Glad it worked for you. Leaving on a road trip tomorrow and my truck is still running great.
sam washburn thank you so much. 👍👍
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!! I've been dreading doing the sensor replacement. Been driving with check engine light on for a year. Emissions inspection is this month. You just saved me from an awful expense. Thank you again. Mike
Your welcome. Let me know how it goes. My Silverado is still fine after 9 months. Leaving on road trip with it on Friday.
yes yes yes you saved me also thank you Sir do you think it will pass a state emissions test like this
if you live in California, it will fail. Mine did. Tampered.
@@88chargerI too live in commiefornia and need to smog it in a few weeks but being in a cast from recent tfcc repair and wrist surgery I can't replace the parts as I did before. What made it fail? Did the smog machine label it "tampered" or did the smog tech see the bypass and not pass it?
After a day and a half of no luck removing bank 2’s frozen knock sensor, I think you’ve saved me! Of course I’ve got to reinstall the intake and all wire harness’s etc etc. I’ll get back to you on the results
Update
I just did your little fix and works great. 02 Tahoe 4.8 engine.
Low voltage to bank 2.
Took about 10 minutes?
Thanks Sam!!!
I have the same engine and code, going to use this repair!
Hows your fuel mileage? Did it come back to normal after by-pass?
@@gregoneill1495how gas mileage?
Thank you Mr. Washburn for a terrific solution to a time and money heavy problem. I had a stroke a while back and can no longer do a lot of things I used to, but can swing messing with a few wires. And being on disability, certainly cannot afford a shop, so your solution knocks both of these out of the park so thanks again! Hit a curious bit though- am showing the good ol' 332 code, but in checking the resistance, one shows 99k and the other 104k, well within range for each, so I thought I'd see what your thoughts were.
The 332 code is saying that the ECM does not like one of the sensors. I believe it want to see the resistance varying as the sensor heats up. Just follow the steps in my video and the code should disappear. Your one working knock sensor will do the work of both without a problem. Let me know how it goes. Sorry to hear about the stroke, but glad ur able to stay active.
Thank you for the simple, easy to understand, reasoning and fix. When my knock sensor (bank 2) failed the first time, local dealer wanted $1,200 to fix. That's understandable (but not acceptable) considering location of sensor and common dealer hourly shop rates. They quoted 4 hours to fix. I took 12 hours but cleaned all removed parts (intake, injectors, fuel rail, etc). The problem as you mentioned, was a bad hood weatherstripping causing rain or washing water to run down back side of engine, fill the knock sensor well and short out the sensor (or break the circuit if you will). I just got a fault reading again on the same sensor and was not looking forward to another top end redo.
Glad it worked. Just keep the engine tuned and clean and you’ll be fine with one or zero knock sensors. I’ve been putting a lot of miles on my Silverado this year. Running like new.
I’m up to 20k miles now. Engine runs perfect
@@SoaringMech I did this fix exactly how you described and wife just texted me saying the light is back on! Super bummed because this has been a nightmare dealing with the shop I bought my truck from. I haven't double checked my wire connections but I soldered them so I doubt they're bad. My question is, is there anything else that can cause this code to come back on??
@@Primal_Dad_Truther which bank has failed this time?
@@SoaringMech Sam, thank you for your reply. This is what I get for watching the video at different times. Bank 1 has failed on my truck and I just rewatched this and realized your truck was bank 2! Just switched the wires and I should be good now I'm hoping 😂. Now I wonder if the light will turn itself off or if I should just reset it anyway..
Thank you very much sir, I've done this before on a different vehicle but didn't know exactly how the knock sensors communicate with the ECU. After seeing your video and reading a few comments I now know, same type of crystal that's in a clicker lighter, smack it with an out of tune frequency and it's gonna spark that check engine light.
Worked like a charM!! Only modification I made was to the small replaceable knock sensor harness itself. Just chopped it in 2 a couple of inches from the single connector, tied green and blue together in one end of a butt slice connector and the bank one Blue wire to the opposite end. abandoning the green Bank 2 ks wire( my code called no.2 bad) so its easily done and undone if needed. Glad I found your video and thanks!
How you did it so you dont plug back together the green wire
Thank you Mr. Sam! You sure made my day and made it possible for my family to take a vacation. Your modification got me running without worry! Will look at the system when I get home!
Glad it helped
Thanks Sam. It worked as it should. Tricked the computer fair and square. LOL I also made a video and referenced your videos as well. I have all new parts coming. Going to replace everything I can while I have the intake manifold off. But in the meantime, truck is running without the engine light coming on. Thanks again.
Great video it showed me how to save a ton of money i took my trailblazer to get a inspection and it failed the inspection so i did the bypass like you said and no more problems and it passed inspection thanks for this great video...
You’re the best, just got new manifold gaskets 2 days before knock sensor code came up (didn’t replace them at the same time like an idiot) and this bypass took 10 min and solved my P0332
So glad too hear it worked for you. Mine is still going strong after more than two years and 20k miles. Running like new. We have verified that the knock sensors are redundant so you only need one working one.
@@SoaringMechcan I drive with a bad knock sensor for 3 hours buying Silverado
This is a 45min job. I did one yesterday, and 2 weeks ago. One fuel line, i vacuum hose, unplug all the injectors, remove intake, the rest is fairly self explanatory. 2hrs at most if u have to watch or read instructions while doing it. I did it in 45min while having full blown conversation with the owner of the vehicle.
This worked great, I actually got 2 connectors w wire on each end from the junkyard . Took a Female socket w wires attached , taped off the blue and attached the green to both green and blue wires attached to a male socket then just added added it to existing , Factory wires are uncut and new piece is less than 6" and tucks out of the way
See my response to other comments about how to make sure your engine doesn’t knock. cheap to do. With just one sensor working now you want be sure she does not knock.
this video couldn't of come at a better time. I'm getting a p0332 code usually in the mornings when i accelerate spiritedly for a brief moment it pops up, then i just reset it with my scan tool and everything is fine. I think I'm gonna do this too. On my 2002 Escalade AWD 6.0.. cause man some days my truck drives fast then a bout 2 months later the p0332 code comes back. lol ill deff try this out
Good luck. Please post the results for others to see.
@@SoaringMech yessir
The definition of a true hero 👏knowledge is power.
Thank you sir 🙏
I'm going to try this u just paid a lot of money to have both knock sensors replaced and a few months later code came back . And it was fun at a GM dealership
If you paid a dealer to fix it, take it back to them. They should fix that for free after such a short time.
Wow. This completely fixed my issue. Light is staying off and it runs like a sewing machine.
Thanks so much!! I did this after replacing both knock sensors, 2 months later P0327 came back. I sure didnt want to have to pay a mechanic to do this again so I took this short cut, problem solved. 2004, 4.8 has power again and the wife is happy once more!
I couldnt get rid of P0327 for a year! Tried everything and this finally worked! THANK YOU
Congrats. Glad to hear it’s fixed. Mine is still code free after 18 months.
Michael Smith when you say you tried everything did you actually replace the bad knock sensor and harness? I’m just wondering...not trying to be a smart ass 😁
@@hectordeanda9133 yes and I replaced the bank 1 knock sensor twice.
Thank you for this video, I already purchased the new sensors and harness but just do not feel like doing the work.Going to try your fix first.
Thank you so much
Unfortunately this bypass didn't work me. I replaced both sensors and the harness with RTV in my driveway. Took about 3 hours. I had the rear sensor (p0327) fail and the forward sensor as a pending fault. I appreciate you taking the time to post a temporary solution to this all too common issue.
As I said in the video the solution won’t work if both sensors are bad
now that is very intelligent explanation of how to test... how to repair and .. and how to verify the fix is completed properly!!
Worked perfectly after a day engine light off runs better then before ready for state inspection
Thank you
Very clever and for all u saying it’s bad come on now if u can’t tell a difference in ur engine when it comes to knocking and YIUR counting on a sensor to inform you go trade in for a Prius
Sam...thank you, thank you. I've been staring at the engine for almost a week now hoping it would simply fix itself. The thought of pulling the intake off sends shivers up my spine, not that I couldn't do it but rather I simply don't want to. Mechanic quoted $1200 and I figure it this way; if I can fix it for say $100 I will use the remaining $1100 on fishing lures. 😋 on the serious side, I purchased the parts and noticed the new wiring harness is the opposite of what you showed. The harness is the female side and had that little metal clip to mount it like the old one.
The male side runs over the top of the manifold and is included in a large bundle if wires down the firewall.
I'm pretty sure I know the answer but was hoping you had received other inquiries regarding the same, or other viewers would chime in if they had the same setup.
I figure I'll hold onto the new parts in the case I have to go all the way to replace them but sure like your method.
Again I'm 99% sure but like my dad always told me "measure twice and cut once."
What your describing is the same as on my truck and the same as shown in the diagram in my video. My solution should work for you. Sorry for the late reply.
Thank you for us people that don't have the means this is not hurting anyting
Thank You Sir.Need to get truck inspected and wont have time to replace knock sensors for a few weeks.Your bypass option is real straight forward and very doable.Than You very very much for you time and tutorial.
So it all makes sense and no more codes - great idea. I found you because I ran a search, "can u run the engine without working knock sensors".
So it begs the question, should you run your engine with only one knock sensor? Can u damage your engine.
Nevermind I read your other responses. I treat this engine with sever care. It runs better now then it did when I bought it 200k miles ago. I tow nothing with it and not worried about knocking at all. Seafoam in the oil from time to time, sprayed into throttle body as well and in the gas tank.
Plugs and wires are done every 50k miles. They are perfect. No issues. Runs perfect. Will be doing this fix in short order. Thanks again.
Will follow through with your fix and move on with life.
@@2009adtommy a lot of people asked so i made a video on this question: ruclips.net/video/T-sIhRQBNgY/видео.html
@@2009adtommydon't run seafoam IN your oil. Seafoam is a proprietary blend of many things, a few of them being very efficient detergents. Great for removing varnish and carbon on your fuel delivery and combustion chambers, also really good at cleaning buildup and gunk off the walls and sump bottom and bottom end of piston heads, rods, and all the other components down in the lower end of the engine of buildup and muck left by years of heated and taxed motor oils. But it shouldn't be left in and run for extensive amounts of time. Add it in right before an oil change, to where you drive about 30-40 miles with it mixed in with your oil. You should NOT run it over 70-80 in any case though. 30-40 miles with it mixed is ideal, that can be had over multiple short trips or one longer one. Once you've crested that 30-40 then change your oil. The added seafoam, after working its magic of "scrubbing"all the moving and non moving parts and portions of the engines oil lubricated parts and partitions is then drained out along with all the contained used oil. This is how its meant to be used, and is how its most efficiently, used. It is NOT meant to be an additive to add to your new oil and then LEAVE in your crankcase mixed in with the oil. The reason being is that old, vintage oil did not have all the additives and detergents that modern engine oil does. It was actually quite filthy stuff and tended to gum up and clog up ports and pass through and filtering screens as well as pumps and left plenty of build up on the interior working parts. Seafoam was invented and utilized to combat this back in the day, most especially in marine applications, hence the name. But adding it and leaving it in to run with MODERN Engine oil sees that there is TOO much detergent in the oil percentage wise per volume and actually images it to a level that the detergents become problematic by stripping the effectiveness of the oil to cling to and coat all the mechanisms and moving parts, seeing to it that they are actually receiving LESS lubrication overall as its stripping the oils ability to coat and cling to these said parts leading to premature failure and excessive wear from friction due to the inability of the oil to do its function of clinging to and coating moving parts and those which have minute clearances between each other. Where it DOES perform as an additive though, is in your fuel tank. Add about a half a can of it to a 25+ gallon tank and run the WHOLE tank till you just nudge the "E" hash and then fill up. Does wonders on the fuel delivery system.
Bro thanks that actually pretty smart thanks we need more people like you
What a great tip, although after paying local tech $800 to replace the sensors (along with replacing plugs and wires) on my 2012 GMC. Took my truck back twice after the fix and the light still returns. He's stated that he will use more expensive OEM parts if the problem returns. However, the inconvenience is tempting me to do this fix myself. I assume that if both knock sensors are bad, this fix won't work. Thank You.
Correct. U need at least one working sensor.
Game brother. That's so simple. I have been struggling with how to fix this problem for two years. Thank you. Yes it would be better to replace the sensor but now at least if the light comes on I'll know something else is wrong as before as before I just ignored the light so this is better than that. Thanks again. Good through video.
See my response to other comments about how to make sure your engine doesn’t knock. cheap to do. With just one sensor working now you want be sure she does not knock.
Another thing the water will do once in the knock well, is allow an easier path to ground. It fills up the well to its capacity, and inevitably makes its way to the metal in the single wire connection. Then when the PCM checks the resistance it sees that different path with its 5vdc / 2.5vdc probe signal. I actually just got done doing this job (on my own truck, done lots on other) and the code came back for the same damn bank 2 sensor after a week and a half. I did the silicone dam and seal TSB trick, as usual. But I did, in my haste, forget to silicone where the wire goes through the rubber grommet. I'm quite sure that's where the mystery water (no clue where enough came from at this point) made its way in. Honestly, I always assumed the ECM, PCM, ECU... whatever you want to call it, would be happy with running these in parallel, but no search criteria could find anyone talking about it... until you, right now, in this video. I'm so happy to have this confirmed for me, thank you very much for the video! I'll be modding the harness to make bank one stand in for one and two tomorrow morning. Dumbest freaking design ever. . . And I can't believe that after that whole days work, all the cleaning, all the sealing, all the redoing of every damn thing from the airbox to tubing to manifold to heads to valley to all of it... all of that work for a week and a half, then back to BS. I probably won't even bother fixing it the right way, unless bank one poops out. Because you FOR SURE don't want to run without knock detection with these engines. But until then, Imma just call this fix pure gold, and keep it going with that alone.
It’s been over two years now and the engine is running as good as ever. The only thing I changed is I never let water get under the hood anymore. In the old days I used to rinse the road salt off the engine in the spring and that’s what queered the first knock sensor. The second sensor is continue to work fine after 15 years. You’ll be fine running on one sensor.
Had the exact same happen to me brother 🤦♂️ should have just bypassed to begin with
Very helpful thank you I have a 2005 6.0 it is doing the exact thing you are talking about I will try this today It will save me $2000 from the dealer thank you
Let me know how it goes
I finally got around and bypass my knock sensor on my Chevy truck as of today seems to be working perfectly fine I do appreciate your knowledge And you sharing it with people thank you again
@@bernardbolton2317 great. Mine is still running fine after 3 years. I just drove 2200 mile to Florida. She’s running perfectly.
Responding to highlighter: yes if money is no object, have a dealer replace the bad sensor for $500-1000. That’s not an option for most of us. The fact is you can hear a knocking engine yourself and fix the problem: replace plugs, clean cylinders, increase octane of the fuel. If the sensor detects knock and changes the timing to avoid it, you will lose power and fuel mileage. Better to know it’s happening and and fix the root cause imho. Also, I’m guessing that in the vortex with two sensors, the working sensor will detect most knocking that occurs, and adjust the timing. So bypassing the dead sensor is probably not risking anything. I could be wrong on that. In any case my Silverado is running great 3 months later with no check engine light and no knocking. Plenty of power on 87 octane fuel.
theirs not always somethin wrong, the knock sensors literally Are one of the parts used to adjust timing, its in case somethin elses wrong, so their crimpling their engine from the start but if u can hear it for urself then yea theirs definitely something wrong
Travis Miller that assumption that you can hear all the things that the computer is tuned to listen for with the knock sensor implies you can do the job of the computer better than the computer can.
I still say the several times more replacement engine is a huge gamble to bypass a knock sensor.
Monte Walsh please provide your electrical engineering background! You pretend ti know more than the GM engineers and perhaps you do, but please when you give an opinion that differs, please provide where you went to school for your engineering degree and your work experience to support your opinion!
@@coypatton3160 you obviously have never worked on a car pre computer age. Got to remember motors used to not use computers for timing and fuel back when i use to run cars with carbs the compression ratio of the motor and jet size holes with fuel metering rods and special type of springs in my edelbrock 4barrel carb would give my sbc all the right fuel they need and never pinged or knocked what u would have to do is turn distributer to point of pinged then back off a little bit tighted the hold down screw and ur done and of course drive the shit out the car at wide open throttle park it pull out plugs and see if motor is being lean or plugs to hot or to cold and etc if the motor is built right and ur using the right octane for that compression ratio there should be absolutely no knocking 👍
Danny Morales how all knowing you think you are! You know nothing about me but know everything about me!How can this be? Only 1 way I know of! You got on the key board and removed all doubt!
You imply that today’s motors are the equivalent of motors from from the 70’ and before! Proof of your foolishness!
Too believe that you can hear and issue, properly interpret that issue and respond to that issue as quickly as a computer (such as adjusting timing) is the ultimate in ......
Enjoy ruining that modern largely aluminum engine! It is not near as forgiving as the old all case iron one you claim I never worked on, FOOL!
OMG!You safe my life,time ,nerves!!!!God Bless You Man!!!!
I’m going to give this a shot in the morning. I’ve had mine replaced about a year ago and once again Bank 2 screwed up. It’s getting g harder and harder to find competent mechanics where I live so I’m gonna have to take matters into my own hands from here in out. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thank you sir for this video.
Hi Bud, how did it go? I was also wondering on his drawing he has Bank2 in the front… I thought Bank1 was. Am I wrong? Thanks.
Wow a great video! Thanks for the correct amount of details and solutions. What a gift!
Very informative video. It definitely repaired my knock sensor issue
i wish i would have done this before replacing the knock sensors. Thanks for the upload.
Great video! My brother and I planing on replacing them on his truck this weekend. I'm going to suggest, we bypass them. It will saved us a lot of time and a little bit of money too. We can definitely use that money to buy beer instead. Lol! Thank you sir.
Thank you very much followed your instructions went to emissions and truck passed with flying colors again thanks.
Great video... Everything someone would need to know..
thanks for the tip,this worked well. checking if I could relocate them
Thank you. It worked. Saved me lots of time and money. Very excellent solution.
I was thinking that could be done... thanks for the confirmation!
I'm gonna try this this weekend, thank you so much!! I got the same truck and color too lol
The video shows you how to bypass a bad knock sensor for bank 2 (code p0332). If bank 1 sensor is bad (code p0327), connect both wires from the female connector to the green wire coming from the knock sensors under the intake manifold.
Thank you for the video! I'll be trying this tomorrow
Can I do this BEFORE it goes to the connector, meaning coming from the sensors to the connector? (opposite of what is displayed here, the other side of the connector) I hate to hack on the wires that come up from the computer to connect to the harness for the sensors. You can always replace the sensor harness but I am not sure about the other side going to the computer.
Yes
Thank You, great information. Tired of seeing check engine light.
Great Vid going to do my suburban this weekend 👍🏻👍🏻👀
Theyre actually pretty easy to replace.
you just saved alot of people money !!!!!
Sam nice work. I have already changed mine twice and still get code returning. I understand the jumper between the 2 wires coming from the knock sensors...but what do you do with the long end of the wire severed to make the short jumper? A cut wire creates 2 separate ends, right? Unclear to me, thanks.
@@ole5539 the cut wire that goes to the dead knock sensor doesn’t matter. Just secure to something out of the way so it doesn’t interfere with anything. Good luck
@@SoaringMech Thanks you sir.
I've been looking for this solution for some time, thanks!!
Very impressed with your style and lecture
Thanks. Nice kids😊😊
Love your idea only problem ive already replaced knock sensors and harness reset pcm but when i pull a heavy load with tow package mode on it flips code p0332 or itll flip bank 2 catalist system inefficient code so question is do i need to change out my new knock sensor or could my catalytic converter be the issue as in fouled or honeycomb blown out either way causing improper back pressure just asking cause i hate to replace new parts if it may not solve the problem
The first thing I would try is use 93 octane gas when pulling a heavy load. Also make sure you spark plugs aren’t worn out and use product to flush the carbon out of the heads. In other words make sure the engine is clean and well tuned. Won’t cost you much. Clean your mass airflow sensor and replace air filter if it’s old too. Good luck
2001 Sierra 4.8
I disconnected my wire connector and with ohm meter found the front ( lt blue) was bad, rear ( drk blue) was 100.7 Kohms. Temove the clip from the rear of the connector for the wires going to the sensors. insert a pin above the male connector and it is easily pulled back & out. I used a scotchlock connector to splice the wires together- I removed the plastic block from the connector so the "bad" wire would go right through as i want to leave the pin on - in case I have to go in later i will replace the sensor and then i can restore the wiring to stock. the pin I covered with a piece of tubing and sealed- thanks for the video! Test driving coming up...
Would it be possible to make a small copper pin shaped like a staple and place it into the female connector to join the two sides together inside when its plugged together? Ima experiment with that! Whether it works or not thanks for the info that inspired my mod!!!
It probably will work as long as the the bad sensor is totally dead. If it is partially alive, it will probably make both sensors look bad to the ecm.
hello sweet video!!! what should the resistance be from the ecm harness?? thank you
About 100ohms
This worked great I pass the smog the next day😁
I replaced the two sensors'wire harnesse and intake gaskets for around $200 and about three hours not a bad job if you watch a few how to videos on RUclips
Unfortionatly i did the same on a 99 silverado replaced both knock sensors and the wiring. That was not bad of a job true but still have the code for it so ima try this method
@@C.O.SBurpees that means either both sensors are bad, or that you really have knock in your motor or your pcm is bad
Thanks...also, look up relocating the sensors to teh Cyl head .. I just did that and its working great
Sam- I worked this from the male end of connector on my 2004 5.3 Avalanche. I have a 332 code, bank 2 rear. Ohmed both to ground, got 100k ohm on blue wire, 15k ohms on green wire. Pulled back some insulation on the blue wire (male side of plug going back to the ECM). Cut the green wire and spliced it into the blue wire on the male side of the plug. Left the cut green wire going back to the ECM hanging. Green wire from male plug is now spliced into blue wire that goes back to ECM. Sound right?
Clint Williams . No. Bank 1 is good so you leave the blue wire intact. Take the cut green wire from the ecm and splice it into the intact blue wire and you should be good to go. Let me know if it works. Mine has been fine for 6 months with this solution. No codes.
I wonder if putting new sensors on side of block or head and running a new wire harness ( which they recommend anyway)from the sensor back to the ecm connector
@@jeffharvey9811 people have done that. It satisfies the ecm and turns off the check engine light. But I don’t think they detect all the knocks.
I hope someone will answer. Isn't this just a band-aid to get your through emissions? Doesnt the second knock sensor problem need to be addressed? I mean, there are two knock sensors for a reason, right? Now you only have one functional one. Sooner rather than later, shouldn't you be replacing the bad knock sensor? And wiring it back correctly?
Just tried it...so far so good 👍thanks man
that's an awesome fix if you have a sensor still reading right thanks a lot
Mr. Washburn, I know you have had much praise over this ingenious method, and so far, I want to add my praise as well. I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500, and had recently replaced the knock sensors due to the same code, only to have it return just a few months later. I also did the RTV around the cups, to no avail. I just did this today, and drove to test, and no codes to report so far, so thank you. I am experiencing a very slight rough idle. Plugs have been changed, as well as oil, and I can't quite figure it out. I was thinking perhaps O2 sensors, since I have no clue how old the current ones are, but would that not throw its own code? At any rate, many thanks.
The slightly rough idle wouldn’t be related to the knock sensors or knocking. How old are the spark plug wires? That could be it. Or possibly a valve that isn’t seating properly in one cylinder at low rpm. Or a slightly clogged fuel injector. (Run injector cleaner through the gas). There is also a separate path for the intake air at idle that passes through the idle control valve. Those can get dirty and sticky and would affect the idle. Those are easy to remove and clean.
Hey Doug, not sure if you fixed the rough idle or not, but try cleaning your mass airflow sensor. Those are known to cause a rough idle when dirty.
Thank you for showing this video I have a 2001 chevy tahoe 5.3 I had water in bank 2 and I change both sensors and harness the first time with Dorman part from O'reilly 2 months later light cam back for the bank 2 again. And never would stay off but was a time or so that the light would go off one's a while. So I did it again recently and put ACDELCO sensors and the harness again. Clear the light and bam back on for 3rd time bank 2 I will try this out. One's again thank for this .
Sorry you had to do so much work and expense. My solution will work because your Bank 1 sensor is working. Your bank two socket threads are probably rusted and preventing good ground for the new sensors you installed there. You’ll be fine with one working sensor. MY truck is still running fine.
@@SoaringMech I know Sam this is driving me crazy lol did the bypass but then they both came on . And I take the main Harness apart were the Harness plugs into the harness for the sensors all the way back to the PCM/ECM. And tested with my continuity tester and I was getting good signal through both wires through the pigtail connector on the plug end going to the ECM/PCM . So then after I was thinking maybe the connector that connects the Sensors Was getting bad connection when plugged together so I cut it off and did a hardwire through both .But once again now both come back on for the check engine light could it be the PCM/ECM going bad?. Or also maybe the sensors I ordered both packaged with the right part number AC Delco where off of eBay maybe they're not good quality ?. Do you think I need to buy from the dealership?. I think you might be right about bank 2 having rust in the threads for the water sitting in at the longest. Any ideas? I live in California so smog is very high over here and I have one more year before I have to smog it but I still would like to see the check engine light off .I have no other codes ever come up on this truck it's been a good truck One thing I did notice after doing the hardwire the truck light stayed off longer and there was no pending codes. but after Stepping on the throttle hard last night then I noticed that both came But both say low voltage . so I'm not sure if I got A knock in the engine but it runs too darn good sitting at a 134000 miles .And no noises clicking or knocking sounds.
@@michaelsturm2828 after you did the bypass since codes came on for both sensors, I’m guessing that you spliced both wires to the bad sensor. All you need to do is go back and splice both wires to the good sensor (Bank 1). Let me know how it goes.
@@SoaringMech The bad sensor was the green wire I cut the greenwire . And the plug that plugs into the sensors I connect to the greenwire to the blue one left the greenwire unconnected going to the sensor Bank 2
@@michaelsturm2828 does the blue wire still connect to the good sensor?
Well explained sir.
My question is: The green and blue wires , do they supply voltage from the ECM to the sensors or the ground is supplied from the sensors to the ECM ?
Ecm supplies voltage and the circuit connects to ground via the pisoelectric component in the knock sensor which alters the resistance of the circuit when the engine knocks. The ECM senses that alteration and concludes it must adjust spark timing because the cylinder is knocking. Hope this is helpful.
After replacing knock censors you must reset code. Turn off vehicle. Start it up and rev the engine over 5,000 RPMs for computer to register knock sensors new harmonic frequency. Or knock codes will keep coming back. Hope this helps.
You are awsome man thankyou for this easy by pass 👍👍
Brilliant. I have that same problem, and I'll give this a try!
If I may , a couple of questions:
Have I understood correctly that there is no signal sent to the ECM that adjusts the ignition timing other than it generates a signal that is converted to a code and nothing more??
I hear nothing abnormal , I have normal acceleration and have not had any reduction of MPG going on about 6 weeks now.
I suspect I did have water seep into the sensor area during a power wash.
Have you altered your concerns about engine damage since this video?
Thank you
Good Questions. I made another video about engine damage and stand by what’s in that video. regarding your question: The ECM monitors the knock sensors. When one of them signals a knock, the ECM figures out which cylinder knocked and then it adjusts the spark timing for that cylinder to try and eliminate or reduce the knocking to prevent damage to that cylinder. I am quite sure at this point that one working knock sensor will get the job done. The second one is for redundancy.
temporary fix. i wondered if this would work when the code came up. honestly spending the money to fix it is my biggest deal. putting good parts in isn't cheap. i'm scared of the cheap stuff online. pulling the intake isn't a big deal on these trucks. i've already replaced gaskets on that truck. it of course threw the code after lol. i'll probably do this to get by for awhile but i'd like both to be working. if 1 was fine, i'm sure 1 would have been used. then again, knock sensors weren't commonly used until fairly recently. we got by without them for many years and i drive one without them every day to work.
Ok. P0327 means your bank 1 sensor is bad. The blue wire goes to bank 1. So cut the blue wire and splice it into the green wire which goes to your bank 2 sensor which is good. Do NOT cut the green wire. It needs to go all the way back to the computer. Good luck. Let me know how it goes.
Okay so we can’t cut the green wire because that goes to the computer but what if we got bank 2 that’s bad ?
@@demarcocb4240 do the opposite for bank 2 do not cut the blue wire cut the green, in other words leave the good bank/wire intact and splice the bad one to it.
@@tategoins5 correct
I have a question. When you are testing to see which nox is working is the engine running or the key switch on to get the ohms? Will it give a ohms reading with the battery disconnected? Thank you for making this
Leave engine off and disconnect the wiring harness that goes to the nox when you check the resistance.