Thanks for making a great video. Nice to see someone doing things the right way. It's exhausting when more parts keep getting added in as you go along, but when it's finished you know you did it right
I’m here coz I found a sienna for sale going for cheap, with “only knock sensor need replacement”. Looks like you just changed my mind 😂. Thanks for all the mechanics posting such videos. Helps a lot of people like me.
Ended up being a mini overhaul of the whole engine not just knock sensors. Great tips on those cracked, brittle and warped hoses and connectors. How much does it it make you mad that manufacturers (including Toyota) insist on using plastic parts and sealant substituting for gaskets? Great job as always, Jack. Good for another 200,000 miles.
Excellent video, especially on the cowling removal needed if the back support bars are still attached. It is possible to do this job without intake removal but you'll probably run into trouble attempting to undo the coil retainer bolts or the connectors. Neither will come out easily if it was untouched for over 100k miles. For the folks suggesting the wiring mod to feed both inputs off of one good sensor, modify the wiring harness going to the knock sensors instead of the main harness behind the glove box. Removing the lower air box makes easy enough to access and put in a pair of vampire taps.
Thank you. This is a extremely helpful video.... I have a 2006 Toyota Solara with 3MZ-FE engine with exact same issues. I changed the knock sensors on bank 1 and 2 with valley plate leaking fix. It was very long and tedious job but with the help of your video, I was able to pull it off. Thank you!
I got the P0328 engine code. Your video was the most helpful. Yes all my connectors were dried and cracked and guess what? I had the same coolant crystals. THANK YOU!
thank you so much! by far the best video i've seen related to this repair, your work and craftsmaship is flawless, i think is worth mentioning that the lower air plenum gasket to be replaced as well.
Wow never knew about that bottom plate below the knock sensors. Thanks great vid. I’ve gotta replace mine out just picked up a 04 with 205,600 miles. I will be using this vid lol
Very nice video and very comprehensive on steps, torque value, etc. I have ES330 w/ 3MZFE. I found it surprising that Lexus ES330 Thermostat housing pipe is made of aluminum instead of plastic. For now, I am just doing the spark plugs and VCG at 248k miles and will wait until the valley plate is actually leaking before I mess with them :P
For the broken ignition coil connectors, just run a medium-sized zip tie through gap between the connector and coil with the nub facing up, press the connector firmly into position, then pull the zip tie until the flat side of the nub is over the locking ridge on the coil. When the tie is locked in place, just trim the tail and you're good to go!
This video was top notch. I had to get this done about 3 years ago. I can't remember which sensor it was, but I bought the "OEM" sensor on ebay. I'm now learning that alot of those, even though they say denso on them, are fakes. I'll get my next one from rock auto Anyway I had a coolant leak from the radiator hose at that time. What's the name of the hose that sits on top of the knock sensors? I'm trying to find it on rock auto and can't figure out what it is called. Probably the best how to video I've ever seen. 5 stars
It’s called a water bypass hose. I don’t think Rock Auto has it. I would just get it from the Toyota dealership. It’s only about $25. But if you Google “2006 Toyota Sienna water bypass hose” you’ll find it online. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I’m glad you liked the video!
Hi Jack the video is very helpful... Are you planning do 3MZ-FE timing belt change video in the future? There are couple videos out there in youtube are pretty good but there is no torque spec, tools and replacement parts # as this video. Thanks.
I ended up overhaul the knock sensors (Rock Auto as Jack recommended), sensors connectors, intake gasket, fuel nozzle O-rings, thermostat. It gets expensive but they are maintenance items you have to do it. All the OEM parts came out about $500. Hopefully this helps... currently I have 232K miles on my car.
Thanks for posting this. Exactly what I needed to see. This is beyond my skills unfortunately, and I’m thinking that the cost on this job with all the recommended work you did as well, basically mechanically totals the vehicle. I’m guessing this is going to be $4-5k, and the car probably isn’t worth that. Tough decision time.
Most shops in my area (Houston, TX) are charging around $150 per labor hour. My shop is $135 per hour. We would normally charge around 6 hours to replace the knock sensors. If you tackle everything you saw me do in the video (valley plate, valve covers, spark plugs, etc) it could easily reach 10 hours. The trick is finding someone who will actually take his time and do a good job. For example, a lot of guys don’t properly clean the valley plate, etc.
Someone called, no power. Ran codes, #PO325 K.S. bank 1. I'm thinking an hour. The first telltale sign? The side of the block, facing forward? Bare, no sensors, no wires. Next thought, "Where are those LiL suckers hiding"? 🤣 Well it's gonna be, much bigger job. For owner, an after watching your vid. Not sure if I even want to do the job. tsk, tsk btw, good vid, good job. Thanks
I've been so scared of doing this for a long time now. Mine is around 200k miles now and it's getting worse and worse by the day. It started around 160k.
No, no, NO. If you do the wiring bypass, you're better off removing the air filter housing and it's not too hard to get to the knock sensor harness so you can crimp in a pair of vampire taps and cut the wires going to the bad sensor. That way you're only touching the sub harness that will be replaced anyway whenever the other good sensor gives out.
Thanks for making a great video. Nice to see someone doing things the right way. It's exhausting when more parts keep getting added in as you go along, but when it's finished you know you did it right
Probably the best, most thorough & helpful instructional video ever!! Thank You!
I’m here coz I found a sienna for sale going for cheap, with “only knock sensor need replacement”. Looks like you just changed my mind 😂. Thanks for all the mechanics posting such videos. Helps a lot of people like me.
Haha yeah… there’s a reason it’s selling for cheap. And I guarantee you it’s more than “only knock sensors.” It’s gonna need more work.
Ended up being a mini overhaul of the whole engine not just knock sensors. Great tips on those cracked, brittle and warped hoses and connectors. How much does it it make you mad that manufacturers (including Toyota) insist on using plastic parts and sealant substituting for gaskets? Great job as always, Jack. Good for another 200,000 miles.
One of the best video I seen regarding this engine, appreciate making the video , learning a lot for my 2004 Highlander thank you
Excellent video, especially on the cowling removal needed if the back support bars are still attached. It is possible to do this job without intake removal but you'll probably run into trouble attempting to undo the coil retainer bolts or the connectors. Neither will come out easily if it was untouched for over 100k miles.
For the folks suggesting the wiring mod to feed both inputs off of one good sensor, modify the wiring harness going to the knock sensors instead of the main harness behind the glove box. Removing the lower air box makes easy enough to access and put in a pair of vampire taps.
This is the best KS video out there. Excellent Excellent Jack.
Thank you. This is a extremely helpful video.... I have a 2006 Toyota Solara with 3MZ-FE engine with exact same issues. I changed the knock sensors on bank 1 and 2 with valley plate leaking fix. It was very long and tedious job but with the help of your video, I was able to pull it off. Thank you!
This is by far the best video detailing knock sensor replacement. Thank you.😀
Absolutely first class video. Legend for taking the time to show us all. Thank you for this 🙌
Thanks for the comment! I’m glad you liked the video!
@@jackhfletcher having to do this whole job on mine soon...i will come back to this video for sure..cheers fella
I got the P0328 engine code. Your video was the most helpful. Yes all my connectors were dried and cracked and guess what? I had the same coolant crystals. THANK YOU!
thank you so much! by far the best video i've seen related to this repair, your work and craftsmaship is flawless, i think is worth mentioning that the lower air plenum gasket to be replaced as well.
Wow never knew about that bottom plate below the knock sensors. Thanks great vid. I’ve gotta replace mine out just picked up a 04 with 205,600 miles. I will be using this vid lol
Very nice video and very comprehensive on steps, torque value, etc. I have ES330 w/ 3MZFE. I found it surprising that Lexus ES330 Thermostat housing pipe is made of aluminum instead of plastic. For now, I am just doing the spark plugs and VCG at 248k miles and will wait until the valley plate is actually leaking before I mess with them :P
For the broken ignition coil connectors, just run a medium-sized zip tie through gap between the connector and coil with the nub facing up, press the connector firmly into position, then pull the zip tie until the flat side of the nub is over the locking ridge on the coil. When the tie is locked in place, just trim the tail and you're good to go!
Those engine covers speed up the process of making all those hoses brittle. I thru mine away when I first got my van at 51k
really interesting and detailed information in this video about KS. Thanks a lot for this video.
Best KS video out there
Thanks.
This video was top notch. I had to get this done about 3 years ago. I can't remember which sensor it was, but I bought the "OEM" sensor on ebay. I'm now learning that alot of those, even though they say denso on them, are fakes. I'll get my next one from rock auto Anyway I had a coolant leak from the radiator hose at that time. What's the name of the hose that sits on top of the knock sensors? I'm trying to find it on rock auto and can't figure out what it is called. Probably the best how to video I've ever seen. 5 stars
It’s called a water bypass hose. I don’t think Rock Auto has it. I would just get it from the Toyota dealership. It’s only about $25. But if you Google “2006 Toyota Sienna water bypass hose” you’ll find it online.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I’m glad you liked the video!
Thank you, Sir. Extremely Helpful!
Excellent video. Well done.
Thank you!
Very professionally done, how much difference when dealing with the same engine in a Lexus RX 330 ?
Basically no difference at all.
Hi Jack the video is very helpful... Are you planning do 3MZ-FE timing belt change video in the future? There are couple videos out there in youtube are pretty good but there is no torque spec, tools and replacement parts # as this video. Thanks.
It’s funny you mention that because I’m about to post that video! I’m still working on editing the video but I hope to have it posted by next weekend.
@@jackhfletcher I will second that request
I just posted the timing belt video if you guys want to go check it out!
I ended up overhaul the knock sensors (Rock Auto as Jack recommended), sensors connectors, intake gasket, fuel nozzle O-rings, thermostat. It gets expensive but they are maintenance items you have to do it. All the OEM parts came out about $500. Hopefully this helps... currently I have 232K miles on my car.
What knock sensor harness did you order ? Im about to do the same job
Great job, nice and clean work.
Very valuable video. Thanks.
Excellent Job
Thanks for posting this. Exactly what I needed to see. This is beyond my skills unfortunately, and I’m thinking that the cost on this job with all the recommended work you did as well, basically mechanically totals the vehicle. I’m guessing this is going to be $4-5k, and the car probably isn’t worth that. Tough decision time.
Most shops in my area (Houston, TX) are charging around $150 per labor hour. My shop is $135 per hour. We would normally charge around 6 hours to replace the knock sensors. If you tackle everything you saw me do in the video (valley plate, valve covers, spark plugs, etc) it could easily reach 10 hours. The trick is finding someone who will actually take his time and do a good job. For example, a lot of guys don’t properly clean the valley plate, etc.
You are the Man thanks so much
Great video. thank you
Someone called, no power. Ran codes, #PO325 K.S. bank 1. I'm thinking an hour. The first telltale sign? The side of the block, facing forward? Bare, no sensors, no wires. Next thought, "Where are those LiL suckers hiding"? 🤣 Well it's gonna be, much bigger job. For owner, an after watching your vid. Not sure if I even want to do the job. tsk, tsk btw, good vid, good job. Thanks
I have the same van same year 3.3 can what are the codes or code for that repair?
mine is 2005 sienna LE, should go through the same process.??
It has apparently KS P0328 code active. That
노크센서 교환하기보다는 먼저 냉각수 비중조절부터 하세요. 냉각수 비중이 영하20도인지 체크해보세요.
Awesome job
Thank you!
I had to do the timing cover on a 2013 ford explorer. Talk about not trying to smear the silly cone 😒
Did the fill neck piece need silicone as well?
I've been so scared of doing this for a long time now. Mine is around 200k miles now and it's getting worse and worse by the day. It started around 160k.
It’s a lot of work, but you’ll be happy once it’s done! I hope you find everything you need here.
What was the lubricant you use for the hose? 38:35
Sea Foam Deep Creep. You could also use soapy water.
Thanks@@jackhfletcher
Quick question anyone...What is the I.D of that Bypass Hose above the Sensors in the gully??
.95
Where’s your shop located brother?
Katy, TX
Might be a good time to replace your 4 oxygen sensors too..lol
Go through the glove box and cut the wires
No, no, NO. If you do the wiring bypass, you're better off removing the air filter housing and it's not too hard to get to the knock sensor harness so you can crimp in a pair of vampire taps and cut the wires going to the bad sensor. That way you're only touching the sub harness that will be replaced anyway whenever the other good sensor gives out.
Why the fuck would they put that sensor there beyond me
*Promo SM*
No way that car is a Toyota
Because…?