Awesome videos, much appreciated! Funny situation I find myself in...I'm currently starting to put my Highlander back together and now have to wait a week or 2 for the exciting finally of Part 3, lol. I know editing takes up A LOT of time in between all the life stuff, you do great work!
When I counted the videos over the weekend, I realized I had closed to 200 video clips. So it takes time to pluck out just small key portions and then assemble them into under 30 minute storyline. Man, this is hard work. It's almost like making a short movie. LOL I'm about 25% done so I might be able to complete it this weekend.
Great job. I just bought a 04 es330 has 205,000 miles. I’m needing to do the knock sensors and the valve covers. With the miles on yours has your knock sensors gone bad yet. I’m putting new reman injectors on , new ignition coils and spark plugs. New intake manifold gaskets and plenum gskt
@@damienbell3155 I didn’t have to replace the knock sensor but the engine ran so smoothly. Just the massive valve gasket oil leak is the only weakness on this engine.
I had to call several Toyota dealers and one claimed to have it but was wrong bolt so I had to drive another 30 miles to find one. I think they were like $12 each. The problem is aluminum block engine can get damaged if it’s tightened too hard so looks like they intentionally made the bolt to be weaker so you couldn’t possibly tighten it hard. Let me list all the torque specs in part 4 videos once I find my notes but I recall it was lower than I expected…like 14 to 18 ft pounds. I’ll confirm in next video.
@3:00 when you are trying to remove the spark plug tube seals, the best way to remove them is to use a flat head screwdriver and insert it NOT on the round side/walls because you risk damaging the metal. Instead, use the flat head screwdriver and insert it on the inner opening (get under the old tube seal) and simply pull up/towards you (or you can twist the flat head screwdriver once it is under the tube seal and the base of the valve cover opening). They will pry up easily. Once the old tube seals are removed, you'll have more space to pry up the metal tabs before seating the new tube seals.
@9:44, you can partly clean this area of carbon deposits by removing the lower intake manifold (which is just underneath the fuel rails). Removing the lower intake manifold serves four main purposes. (1) it exposes the underlying water transfer hose (Hose, Water By-Pass, No. 1 - Toyota 16261-20010), which should be replaced per Haynes Manual if you've come this far; (2) you can replace the old lower intake manifold gaskets which are now exposed; (3) it allows you to easily clean the six ports of the lower intake manifold without risking dropping the carbon deposits (or anything else) falling further to the valves and the cylinders. Note: I would not recommend cleaning the valves unless they are SUPER dirty (not likely because these are cleaned constantly with port injection of the fuel). The risks outweigh the benefits IMHO; and (4) removing the lower intake manifold (and plugging the ports with paper towels) allows you MUCH added comfort/space when attempting to remove/reseat the rear valve cover.
For the spark plug tube seals, some of these valve covers (toyota) do have that metal tab you need to bend first (gently) and some of these plug tube seals come out from the top, some from the bottom. Any chance you know if a 2014 Rav4 2.4L has valve cover tube seals that come out from the top? Thanks! Ive done this job too on my highlander, did the rear bank o2 sensor, water bypass hose in the middle (was in great condition), and the knock sensor harness! (Known to get brittle & throw codes on 1mz)
I have a 2004 RX330. While it has the same engine as its Highlander counterpart, it appears that there may be more disassembly required for the RX330 to allow for clearance to the lower valve cover/throttle body assemblies. For instance, the Highlander has a clearly visible strut bar. On the RX330, it appears that the strut bar is hidden under a cover that can only be removed by undoing the wiper assemblies. Did you experience this on the Highlander?
Yeah, RX330 you probably have to remove the cowl to create more space, but that's not difficult as you have lots of space to work with and none are hard to remove parts. Here is a Camry video, but the concept should be same for RX330. ruclips.net/video/iz3k1oZ6Yjg/видео.html
@@DIYLifeSkills thank you so much! I have watched so many videos on this and yours is by far the most complete. I hadn't found a video that talks about removing the part you just referred to, the cowl! Man, I am so glad I found your video God bless!
@9:45, you clean the walls leading to the intake valves using carburetor cleaner and a brush. My only issue is that I've been reading that not all of the intake valves are closed at the same time. So my question to you is: how did you ensure that all the carbon deposit grime/sediment doesn't fall through one of the open intake valves? Also, and excuse my inexperience, but is it safe to use carburetor cleaner if the engine has a port fuel injection system and not a carburetor? Thanks again.
I replied to your other message on how to clean the intake valves for cleaning. As for cleaning chemical, yeah it’s safe to use carburetor cleaner for this aluminum engine.
When you were cleaning the intake valves with the brush was there any chance that carbon would go past the intake valve and into the cylinder heads or were they all cleaned up using the paper towel and also helped that the intake valve position covered the hole? Also, you actually scrubbed the intake valve itself right? Can I use any pressure when using the wire brush or should I treat it with care?
@@DIYLifeSkillsdoes the carb cleaner and carbon sludge that falls through the open valve indeed burn off over time? Is it safe for the engine to have this stuff in the cylinder? Why do so many folks insist that the intake valves be closed if they are not closed?
@@carlosamorin7989 Dropping cleaning sludge/carbon to piston chamber will foul up catalytic converter and make it fail prematurely. And OEM quality catalytic converter is very expensive because they contain precious metals, and that’s why thieves are stealing them. Avoid dropping carbon residue into piston by ensuring that intake valves are fully closed.
@@DIYLifeSkills thank you. Could you point me to a video that teaches us how to ensure that our type of engine is allowed to close its intake valves? I couldn't find a video for our engine.
@@carlosamorin7989 For Highlander, I could’ve made into more than 10 videos for all the work I’ve done, but I was too busy with my full time job, so I shrunk it to 3 videos only. However, you can what I’ve done for my 2006 Lexus GS300 in these two video as concepts are identical. ruclips.net/video/SS8vFbBLIG0/видео.htmlsi=ydYNeve349a0ud8k
Part 1 Video is here:
ruclips.net/video/8RXQpL0ADyE/видео.html
Part 3 video is here:
ruclips.net/video/Hs-NWLuZXYc/видео.html
Awesome videos, much appreciated! Funny situation I find myself in...I'm currently starting to put my Highlander back together and now have to wait a week or 2 for the exciting finally of Part 3, lol. I know editing takes up A LOT of time in between all the life stuff, you do great work!
When I counted the videos over the weekend, I realized I had closed to 200 video clips. So it takes time to pluck out just small key portions and then assemble them into under 30 minute storyline. Man, this is hard work. It's almost like making a short movie. LOL
I'm about 25% done so I might be able to complete it this weekend.
Finally posted part 3 video. Thanks
ruclips.net/video/Hs-NWLuZXYc/видео.html
Great job. I just bought a 04 es330 has 205,000 miles. I’m needing to do the knock sensors and the valve covers. With the miles on yours has your knock sensors gone bad yet. I’m putting new reman injectors on , new ignition coils and spark plugs. New intake manifold gaskets and plenum gskt
@@damienbell3155 I didn’t have to replace the knock sensor but the engine ran so smoothly. Just the massive valve gasket oil leak is the only weakness on this engine.
I ordered a set of those valve cover bolts as well. They look like a one-time use item.
I had to call several Toyota dealers and one claimed to have it but was wrong bolt so I had to drive another 30 miles to find one. I think they were like $12 each.
The problem is aluminum block engine can get damaged if it’s tightened too hard so looks like they intentionally made the bolt to be weaker so you couldn’t possibly tighten it hard. Let me list all the torque specs in part 4 videos once I find my notes but I recall it was lower than I expected…like 14 to 18 ft pounds. I’ll confirm in next video.
Best one on you tube...Bravo
Thanks for the compliment.
Very good video, appreciate the effort to make it.
Thanks for the feedback.
@3:00 when you are trying to remove the spark plug tube seals, the best way to remove them is to use a flat head screwdriver and insert it NOT on the round side/walls because you risk damaging the metal. Instead, use the flat head screwdriver and insert it on the inner opening (get under the old tube seal) and simply pull up/towards you (or you can twist the flat head screwdriver once it is under the tube seal and the base of the valve cover opening). They will pry up easily. Once the old tube seals are removed, you'll have more space to pry up the metal tabs before seating the new tube seals.
You videos are very good.
Here it is. ruclips.net/video/0C1k8CWmcro/видео.htmlsi=7JE4Skawm5OapV2e
nice work!
@9:44, you can partly clean this area of carbon deposits by removing the lower intake manifold (which is just underneath the fuel rails). Removing the lower intake manifold serves four main purposes. (1) it exposes the underlying water transfer hose (Hose, Water By-Pass, No. 1 - Toyota 16261-20010), which should be replaced per Haynes Manual if you've come this far; (2) you can replace the old lower intake manifold gaskets which are now exposed; (3) it allows you to easily clean the six ports of the lower intake manifold without risking dropping the carbon deposits (or anything else) falling further to the valves and the cylinders. Note: I would not recommend cleaning the valves unless they are SUPER dirty (not likely because these are cleaned constantly with port injection of the fuel). The risks outweigh the benefits IMHO; and (4) removing the lower intake manifold (and plugging the ports with paper towels) allows you MUCH added comfort/space when attempting to remove/reseat the rear valve cover.
For the spark plug tube seals, some of these valve covers (toyota) do have that metal tab you need to bend first (gently) and some of these plug tube seals come out from the top, some from the bottom. Any chance you know if a 2014 Rav4 2.4L has valve cover tube seals that come out from the top? Thanks! Ive done this job too on my highlander, did the rear bank o2 sensor, water bypass hose in the middle (was in great condition), and the knock sensor harness! (Known to get brittle & throw codes on 1mz)
I have a 2004 RX330. While it has the same engine as its Highlander counterpart, it appears that there may be more disassembly required for the RX330 to allow for clearance to the lower valve cover/throttle body assemblies. For instance, the Highlander has a clearly visible strut bar. On the RX330, it appears that the strut bar is hidden under a cover that can only be removed by undoing the wiper assemblies. Did you experience this on the Highlander?
Yeah, RX330 you probably have to remove the cowl to create more space, but that's not difficult as you have lots of space to work with and none are hard to remove parts. Here is a Camry video, but the concept should be same for RX330. ruclips.net/video/iz3k1oZ6Yjg/видео.html
@@DIYLifeSkills thank you so much! I have watched so many videos on this and yours is by far the most complete. I hadn't found a video that talks about removing the part you just referred to, the cowl! Man, I am so glad I found your video God bless!
@9:45, you clean the walls leading to the intake valves using carburetor cleaner and a brush. My only issue is that I've been reading that not all of the intake valves are closed at the same time. So my question to you is: how did you ensure that all the carbon deposit grime/sediment doesn't fall through one of the open intake valves? Also, and excuse my inexperience, but is it safe to use carburetor cleaner if the engine has a port fuel injection system and not a carburetor? Thanks again.
I replied to your other message on how to clean the intake valves for cleaning. As for cleaning chemical, yeah it’s safe to use carburetor cleaner for this aluminum engine.
When you were cleaning the intake valves with the brush was there any chance that carbon would go past the intake valve and into the cylinder heads or were they all cleaned up using the paper towel and also helped that the intake valve position covered the hole?
Also, you actually scrubbed the intake valve itself right? Can I use any pressure when using the wire brush or should I treat it with care?
Some but they'll be burned off.
This is why I usually drive the car for 30-60 minutes on highway after carbon cleaning, and then change oil.
@@DIYLifeSkillsdoes the carb cleaner and carbon sludge that falls through the open valve indeed burn off over time? Is it safe for the engine to have this stuff in the cylinder? Why do so many folks insist that the intake valves be closed if they are not closed?
@@carlosamorin7989 Dropping cleaning sludge/carbon to piston chamber will foul up catalytic converter and make it fail prematurely. And OEM quality catalytic converter is very expensive because they contain precious metals, and that’s why thieves are stealing them. Avoid dropping carbon residue into piston by ensuring that intake valves are fully closed.
@@DIYLifeSkills thank you. Could you point me to a video that teaches us how to ensure that our type of engine is allowed to close its intake valves? I couldn't find a video for our engine.
@@carlosamorin7989 For Highlander, I could’ve made into more than 10 videos for all the work I’ve done, but I was too busy with my full time job, so I shrunk it to 3 videos only. However, you can what I’ve done for my 2006 Lexus GS300 in these two video as concepts are identical.
ruclips.net/video/SS8vFbBLIG0/видео.htmlsi=ydYNeve349a0ud8k
Hy, Thanks for this good vidéo ;)
Thank you. I may part 3 video done this weekend.