My dream is to have a local shop throw the 2.8 in to a 60 series Land Cruiser. They sell and install a swap kit that includes everything that’s needed but the engine for 5k. The very small prepper in me wants that and a 1000 gallon diesel tank with a diesel backup generator. Great video. I’m glad you lay out everything that actually has to be done to do a swap like this.
Compared to a new vehicle it’s not as expensive. There are ways to do a cheaper swap if you take your time. I think a TDI swap could be a very good option too. All my vehicles are so high mileage and I wanted a relatively “new” drivetrain that was relatively easy to maintain. Rebuilding the 4.0 would be a great move too. The 4.0 is a probably top 10 engines imo. I love an in-line 6.
After swapping one in an IH scout 800, I was curious if you were ever able to delete the egr. Is it as simple as fabbing up 2 block off plates or will the ECM flip out?
I have not done a delete yet. I keep my EGR unplugged and I haven't heard of any issues besides a light that comes on. I'd love to actually get the parts from abroad so everything is factory deleted, but it's basically just block the port and the coolant lines too.
I think Jeeps would be great for off-grid. We've gotta move so much equipment that my Jeeps are mostly for fun and IMO more convenient than all of the 4wheelers, everyone rides around. However I've used mine to move equipment many times especially during recovery stuff. I certainly dream of going off-grid, but it's complicated if I want to do all of the things I do now. I'd love to hear about your off-grid setup. Have you been doing anymore YJ swaps?
That is the right response and your wallet will thank you. I don't regret doing a swap AT ALL, but there's stuff I would have done differently. It just depends on what you want though. If you do a swap, you're the engineer and mechanic until you sell your project. If you just want what you want and can't find it anywhere else and you like fabricating and doing some mechanic work and projects, then just find the right swap or build for you. The 4.0 is an amazing engine. Most Jeep Wranglers and CJs are some of the best vehicles for reliability and when you need to work on them, they don't need too many special tools or even a place to work on them. The parts are plentiful and usually reasonably priced. I can work on my TJ almost anywhere, but I can't fit my truck into my garage very well, so I'm limited on what I can do on it. IMO the biggest thing the 4.0 equipped engines need is torque which is a gearing issue. 3.07s should have been illegal. If you want power though or you want an engine with low-end torque then you can make a case for a different engine. For power I think the LS engines are no-brainers. For torque, I'd say gear change and LS swap. If you just don't want to compromise and you want to be a bit unique in the US, diesel is fun and it's even a bit rebellious. I wish we had more options. I really would like a more compact (compared to say a 6BT or Duramax or whatever) 300+hp diesel engine, but they are almost non-existent in the US and getting that from a smaller displacement engine is going to limit the life of those engines (the R2.8's max hp is probably low 200s and I would doubt the block would ever be able to handle 300 hp for more than a couple runs even with a built motor), though a 4BT and a few others are capable, you're gonna be rolling coal all the time and they're just not well mannered engines in a lighter chassis.
I just ran some (2) 3/8 rubber fuel lines to the tank from the Cummins supplied pump, 1 for fuel and 1 for return fuel. The return just empties in a different location and I used the factory fuel pump/level sender, but removed the actual fuel pump and screen and ran the line down to near the bottom of the tank. I think there's a regulator or check valve (I can't remember the correct name) between the fuel pickup line and the fuel going into the pump. I did not use my factory fuel tank, but it's still basically the same procedure. On newer tanks there might be more valves to deal with gasoline vapors, but those are not needed for diesel. Unless Cummins has changed their recommendations, you don't even need a lift pump for their fuel pump. I removed the flap in the fill port as well, because it isn't necessary and some diesel filling stations and some off-road fueling options have larger spouts that will be impacted by that flap. I showed some of the fuel setup here ruclips.net/video/QP7nGwv71rQ/видео.html
There's EGR and DOC. EGR can just be unplugged, but then your Murphy gauge always shows a fault code which would need to have a programmer deal with, which I personally would suggest if you can find someone you trust and that will also open you up to the more standard 360 ft lb tuning used around the world. I also think the engine would look much "cleaner" without that big EGR on top, so for off-road only applications I would remove it and plate it off just like all modern day US diesel engines should be. DOC doesn't seem to do much unless it gets clogged which I don't love the location of it in a TJ, but am afraid if it's relocated further back in the exhaust that maybe there won't be enough heat under light driving to keep it from staying free flowing, but this is complete guessing and probably a call to Cummins could clarify. Considering I want a muffler too, I'll probably relocate mine to an area that's further back, but easy to remove if I start having some issues. Sorry for the late response, I haven't been getting notifications of comments.
I’m sorry this comment has a lot of questions but I’m waiting for my r2.8 to get in and just trying to compare everyones set ups and personal opinions. What was the cooling package kit you chose for this? What tranny are you rocking? Having all parts needed how long was your install? After completion what are your thoughts on the Cummins.
I bought the whole install kit from axis to install in my TJ with the ax-15. The kit has been great. It took me about 3 months but I was waiting for parts too. IMO I should have gone slower and pulled the tub and spent more time refreshing the chassis. I did replace a few worn components and replaced all of the brake lines. I absolutely love the r2.8, though part of me wishes I'd put this in a longer wheelbase vehicle that was more capable of towing and a stronger transmission behind the engine so I could tune the r2.8 and do some additional towing, because I need to tow fairly often and I'd love to see what this little engine could do. However the stock tune is great for the TJ but I'll still probably get a tune just cuz the torque really makes a Jeep feel the way a Jeep should have been powered and torque is simply fun. The thing I never anticipated before my build was the fear of having my Jeep stolen or wrecked since it has to be built and not really be bought.
Also I've kept this Jeep mostly stock besides the r2.8 and peripherals. I currently have a 2.5in lift and 1in body lift. With currie front and rear track bars and an anti rock front sway bar. I have arb lockers front and rear with 3.73s with Dana 30/Dana super 35. Still haven't installed an exhaust and my skid plate and transfer case are stock though I'd like to do a tummy tuck and run an Atlas 2 5:1 with Tom woods driveshafts.
I have a built 97 TJ and I would really like to do a 2.8 cumins swap. One of my concerns is I would really like to keep the transmission in its current location due to already having an atlas and a klune vee doubler. Will the axis adapter allow this? I already have an aftermarket aluminum fuel tank and currie high pinion axles with air lockers and 4.56 gears. My biggest complaint with the 4.0 is fuel economy and it isnt the cost, just how much fuel I need to have and add. Great build!
My Axis adapter keeps my ax-15 exactly at the OEM location. QuickDraw has some different adapters to look at too. Your build sounds awesome already. I agree that mpg has more to do with all the additional volume and fill ups required. The low end torque is really nice with the 2.8 though I wouldn't overlook the VW TDI if you don't need the 306 ft lbs (360 with the non EPA tune). However the easiest and cheapest path is to stick with 4.0, but that diesel grunt just brings a smile to my face. And the torque on the road is just incredible. I wouldn't expect 30mpg with your setup but you'll likely be around 20mpg highway or off road. I was at 11 mpg before so that's a massive improvement for be especially with more gear, higher suspension and roof rack I didn't have before my build.
@@bugoutjeep8065 thanks for the reply, my jeep is fairly heavy tipping the scales at about 5200 lbs and the 4.0 just doesn't seem to have the power to pull hills on the Wyoming roads. I am still pondering this swap.
With the 4.56 ratio, you shouldn't have too much trouble moving that much weight around with the 2.8, but you will likely need the Axis Cooling Package. I towed a 2k lb when empty trailer and about 1k lbs of stuff on that trailer with 3.07s for a week or so and it pulled pretty well in the Jeep, but the Jeep couldn't brake quickly at all. Of course most V8 swaps would move you around too, but the MPG is still going to be rather low. I'd imagine 13 mpg with a V8 vs 20ish with the R2.8. The V8 would be more fun when you want to accelerate quickly, but the 2.8 does not accelerate very quickly, but it'll hold highway speeds pretty easily.
@@davidcamilleridfs690 if I change from the ax15 I’m going to try and go 6 speed auto (even if I manually shift it) and there’s a rear cover/adapter that can save an inch or so from QuickDraw I think. I would definitely go gps speedometer it really simplifies stuff and it gives you some shorter transfer case options. There is a tach wire but often you’ll need some kind of signal adapter. I think eliminating the OEM pcm is the way to go. Also that’s mounted in an area where you need a bigger/dual battery and the pcm takes up space right there at the battery. I got the Dakota digital because my wife liked the look. Some other TJ guys didn’t care for the auto meter but imo it looks good. There’s a repowerowners forum and there’s a couple of really awesome gauge sets I’ve seen used with the r2.8. I didn’t know what I was doing at all with my gauges when I was first trying to get gauges and was trying to utilize the j1939, but that was the wrong path and there’s some awesome options out there including different Murphy gauges though I think those are really limited. I do not have AC, but almost everything I have heard suggests you have to relocate the compressor in the TJ frame. I only know of the $1500 bracket from axis that works, but I could be wrong. I try to pull my doors as soon as it looks warm and I didn’t know my ac worked for over a year since I owned the Jeep and I daily drove it and it was not incredibly cold inside and I feel like a slouch cuz my grandfather didn’t get AC in his Jeep until he was 97.
@@bugoutjeep8065 It seems quick draw has some more reasonable options than axis. They have a mid mount a/c kit for 695.00. I have a black soft top and it gets very hot in the summer where I live. My wife and I took a ride in the badlands last sunday and I had the a/c on because my window sliders don't let a lot of air in. I am still on the fence about spending the money for the conversion, I would love the better fuel economy and increased low end torque, I think I could re-use my new aluminum radiator, my biggest concern is that my wife is having a hard time getting in and out of my jeep as her health degrades, on the other hand I like hard core off road and really want to build a set of snow tracks for the jeep and with a diesel engine it would be much more practical.
I'm getting low 20s. Before the roof rack I was getting mid to high 20s even with mud tires. I'm lifted too and I've regeared and rebuilt the axles so everything is new and tight. It's still better than the 11mpg I was getting with the 4.0L. I'm not tuned either so remember these engines are not tuned for economy but will likely see a 10% increase in economy tuned properly. Typically you're gonna see 40% better fuel economy with a diesel if the gas powertrain was properly setup. In my case the 4 L had to be setup for performance to handle highway and off-road.
How much did you put into your build? I am curious to the cost because I am just considering purchasing the conversion kit that Axis offers on their website. It seems kind of outlandishly priced but after taking into consideration everything you mentioned it may be worth while to purchase that kit and have most everything you need.
The kit was cheaper when I got it, but it's quality stuff that saved A BUNCH of time. I don't have my spreadsheet in front of me, but I think with the engine and kit it was in the vicinity of $16k. I didn't go with AC either. Of course that didn't include gauges, exhaust, considerations for dual battery or large single battery and several other items you'll likely want to add or need to repair. I have been driving my setup for over 3 years I think, though I've had the Jeep down for various maintenance and other builds, but the kit has been pretty much trouble free, besides where I rushed things too much. Also I probably did a few things wrong, because there just were fewer examples to go off of and I made a bunch of assumptions as a novice and in one instance installed some stuff in the wrong order and ended up messing up fairly substantially.
@@dmb1881 yeah definitely. Ask anything, I've looked at so many different options for this build before I settled on this and I'm still looking at new options.
It is a lot of work and it never fully ends either. I even did a simple version of this build. Some guys machine and/or search junkyards for every single piece of this puzzle and their results are AMAZING, but the work is also AMAZING to get to that point, though some guys actually do some of this or stuff that's similar to this for a living and that obviously puts them in a different playing field. At the end of the day it's incredibly satisfying being on trails with something you can't easily buy, but it also sucks when you breakdown as well, because you messed up something. However if I can find the time and money to do a project, I still love doing various DIY projects. However there have been many moments I didn't want to be in my garage working on something and wanted to be out camping or just having fun.
I wouldn't say "from scratch", but I think the details will really make a difference longer term. I would probably start with something, at least a frame, but that's just because I'm not a good enough mechanic and fabricator to go too far from a working vehicle. I would try to build off something that's close to your final goal. On a caveat I love the longevity you're going to get from a new car, but I don't love the repairs in 10 years nor the price. On these 20+ year old vehicles, most of the repairs are simple and cheap. Modern cars are so much more complex, they just aren't great platforms to start, but an older, simple framed vehicle is usually a good starting point. However for a Jeep TJ, you already have one of the best vehicle from OEM EVER made from a reliability and ease and cost of working on stand point, except most Jeep drivers need low end torque for their desired applications and your torque starts being useful around 3,500 rpms. Re-gearing and completely restoring an OEM Jeep TJ, IMO is the BEST choice for the average driver, but driving around at 4k RPMS all the time has drawbacks too, but the 4.0 is a really good engine and those Jeeps are very simple and fairly robust. New Jeeps are better in most ways, but they are more complex and they are very pricey. However for some they are the appropriate starting point. I would actually suggest a frame off full rebuild of a stock TJ if you kind of like Jeeps. I mean full too, because I'd even give the wiring attention too because of the age of these vehicles, the wiring is a problem too. If you are wanting something easy to build from scratch, there's A LOT of super cool buggy type builds out there that would be crazy fun and depending on where you live, can be made street legal.
SUCH A CITY BOY GET REAL I JUST DID A 351 AND AAUTO TRANS AND DRIVE SHAFTS ALL IN 3 DAYS FOR A YJ AND FOR LESS THAN 1000 BUCKS I PUT A GM 2.8 IN A YJ IN 1 WEEK FOR $3200
Good job. The Duramax 2.8? That would be very cool. But here it's WAY more expensive than $3200 where I'm at in KY. I've got very little interest in V8s for the Jeeps because I've got a ZJ with a V8 already and it's a great for what it is, but I wanted something different in a TJ. My YJ truck I'm planning a 6BT with Allison. It's likely not gonna be cheap, but it'll easily pull most of my farm equipment once I swap in axles and brakes from a 1 ton and stretch it.
@@bugoutjeep8065 That YJ project sounds sick, would love to see some content on it. I'm dreaming stretching my old ranger and doing an r2.8 and SAS swap. Thanks for the video.
Whenever I get a chance I'll start going over it, but right now that project is so far on the backburner, though I'm going to try and acquire some parts. I can buy an international 7.3 V8 diesel pretty cheap from a buddy, but I think ultimately I want to get a 6BT in there with an automatic. I may possibly even pull my 5.9 from my Dodge 2500 one day, if I find an acceptable replacement truck. Send me a link if you do your ranger, it would be a fun swap. When I drive my wife's Tacoma, I dream of swapping in a tuned R2.8 instead of the 4.0 in that truck. I think a 200 hp R2.8 with say a 6 speed auto would be AMAZING in a small truck. It wouldn't be fast, but the transmission wouldn't be constantly shifting. Now a 300+hp diesel in almost any truck would just simply be AWESOME. I keep hoping for a R3.8 one day, but I'm doubting those will ever be allowed in the US.
20 mpg to 30+ mpg depending on the setup and tuning. You can get over 40 if you want. I don't suggest doing this swap solely for mpg since fuel might be cheaper than the swap.
Dam, that was too honest, wasnt ready for this 😢
My dream is to have a local shop throw the 2.8 in to a 60 series Land Cruiser. They sell and install a swap kit that includes everything that’s needed but the engine for 5k.
The very small prepper in me wants that and a 1000 gallon diesel tank with a diesel backup generator.
Great video. I’m glad you lay out everything that actually has to be done to do a swap like this.
I'm wanting to do this to my xj, your videos made me more exited for a swap!
I hope you do some videos when you do the swap. I love seeing diesel swaps
I hope you do some videos when you do the swap. I love seeing diesel swaps
Great video, wish I could do it to my TJ. Maybe one day when the money tree grows haha
Compared to a new vehicle it’s not as expensive. There are ways to do a cheaper swap if you take your time. I think a TDI swap could be a very good option too. All my vehicles are so high mileage and I wanted a relatively “new” drivetrain that was relatively easy to maintain.
Rebuilding the 4.0 would be a great move too. The 4.0 is a probably top 10 engines imo. I love an in-line 6.
After swapping one in an IH scout 800, I was curious if you were ever able to delete the egr. Is it as simple as fabbing up 2 block off plates or will the ECM flip out?
I have not done a delete yet. I keep my EGR unplugged and I haven't heard of any issues besides a light that comes on. I'd love to actually get the parts from abroad so everything is factory deleted, but it's basically just block the port and the coolant lines too.
This is a great video!!
AS I NEED MY JEEP TO GET TO TOWN, I BIN OFF GRID OVER 35 YEARS
I think Jeeps would be great for off-grid. We've gotta move so much equipment that my Jeeps are mostly for fun and IMO more convenient than all of the 4wheelers, everyone rides around. However I've used mine to move equipment many times especially during recovery stuff.
I certainly dream of going off-grid, but it's complicated if I want to do all of the things I do now.
I'd love to hear about your off-grid setup.
Have you been doing anymore YJ swaps?
Thanks 😂 I m going with the 4.0 , still nice to dream 😅
That is the right response and your wallet will thank you. I don't regret doing a swap AT ALL, but there's stuff I would have done differently.
It just depends on what you want though. If you do a swap, you're the engineer and mechanic until you sell your project. If you just want what you want and can't find it anywhere else and you like fabricating and doing some mechanic work and projects, then just find the right swap or build for you.
The 4.0 is an amazing engine. Most Jeep Wranglers and CJs are some of the best vehicles for reliability and when you need to work on them, they don't need too many special tools or even a place to work on them. The parts are plentiful and usually reasonably priced. I can work on my TJ almost anywhere, but I can't fit my truck into my garage very well, so I'm limited on what I can do on it.
IMO the biggest thing the 4.0 equipped engines need is torque which is a gearing issue. 3.07s should have been illegal. If you want power though or you want an engine with low-end torque then you can make a case for a different engine. For power I think the LS engines are no-brainers. For torque, I'd say gear change and LS swap. If you just don't want to compromise and you want to be a bit unique in the US, diesel is fun and it's even a bit rebellious. I wish we had more options. I really would like a more compact (compared to say a 6BT or Duramax or whatever) 300+hp diesel engine, but they are almost non-existent in the US and getting that from a smaller displacement engine is going to limit the life of those engines (the R2.8's max hp is probably low 200s and I would doubt the block would ever be able to handle 300 hp for more than a couple runs even with a built motor), though a 4BT and a few others are capable, you're gonna be rolling coal all the time and they're just not well mannered engines in a lighter chassis.
Lookin to swap my '98 6 cyl k1500
That'll be a cool swap. What transmission and drivetrain are you planning?
Quick question, for a Wrangler TJ what did you have to do to modify the fuel system for the R2.8 swap.
I just ran some (2) 3/8 rubber fuel lines to the tank from the Cummins supplied pump, 1 for fuel and 1 for return fuel. The return just empties in a different location and I used the factory fuel pump/level sender, but removed the actual fuel pump and screen and ran the line down to near the bottom of the tank. I think there's a regulator or check valve (I can't remember the correct name) between the fuel pickup line and the fuel going into the pump.
I did not use my factory fuel tank, but it's still basically the same procedure. On newer tanks there might be more valves to deal with gasoline vapors, but those are not needed for diesel.
Unless Cummins has changed their recommendations, you don't even need a lift pump for their fuel pump.
I removed the flap in the fill port as well, because it isn't necessary and some diesel filling stations and some off-road fueling options have larger spouts that will be impacted by that flap.
I showed some of the fuel setup here
ruclips.net/video/QP7nGwv71rQ/видео.html
what emissions systems come on it? do you have to deal with an egr and a doc?
There's EGR and DOC. EGR can just be unplugged, but then your Murphy gauge always shows a fault code which would need to have a programmer deal with, which I personally would suggest if you can find someone you trust and that will also open you up to the more standard 360 ft lb tuning used around the world. I also think the engine would look much "cleaner" without that big EGR on top, so for off-road only applications I would remove it and plate it off just like all modern day US diesel engines should be.
DOC doesn't seem to do much unless it gets clogged which I don't love the location of it in a TJ, but am afraid if it's relocated further back in the exhaust that maybe there won't be enough heat under light driving to keep it from staying free flowing, but this is complete guessing and probably a call to Cummins could clarify. Considering I want a muffler too, I'll probably relocate mine to an area that's further back, but easy to remove if I start having some issues.
Sorry for the late response, I haven't been getting notifications of comments.
I’m sorry this comment has a lot of questions but I’m waiting for my r2.8 to get in and just trying to compare everyones set ups and personal opinions. What was the cooling package kit you chose for this? What tranny are you rocking? Having all parts needed how long was your install? After completion what are your thoughts on the Cummins.
Also what of your undercarriage is original parts or done prior to planning on the Cummins swap??
I bought the whole install kit from axis to install in my TJ with the ax-15. The kit has been great. It took me about 3 months but I was waiting for parts too. IMO I should have gone slower and pulled the tub and spent more time refreshing the chassis. I did replace a few worn components and replaced all of the brake lines.
I absolutely love the r2.8, though part of me wishes I'd put this in a longer wheelbase vehicle that was more capable of towing and a stronger transmission behind the engine so I could tune the r2.8 and do some additional towing, because I need to tow fairly often and I'd love to see what this little engine could do. However the stock tune is great for the TJ but I'll still probably get a tune just cuz the torque really makes a Jeep feel the way a Jeep should have been powered and torque is simply fun.
The thing I never anticipated before my build was the fear of having my Jeep stolen or wrecked since it has to be built and not really be bought.
Also I've kept this Jeep mostly stock besides the r2.8 and peripherals. I currently have a 2.5in lift and 1in body lift. With currie front and rear track bars and an anti rock front sway bar. I have arb lockers front and rear with 3.73s with Dana 30/Dana super 35. Still haven't installed an exhaust and my skid plate and transfer case are stock though I'd like to do a tummy tuck and run an Atlas 2 5:1 with Tom woods driveshafts.
Where can you buy the R2.8? Everywhere I look it says out of stock.
I got mine from quick draw brand, it took 7 months to get it and I think it’s a little longer now
2 weeks done!
I have a built 97 TJ and I would really like to do a 2.8 cumins swap. One of my concerns is I would really like to keep the transmission in its current location due to already having an atlas and a klune vee doubler. Will the axis adapter allow this? I already have an aftermarket aluminum fuel tank and currie high pinion axles with air lockers and 4.56 gears. My biggest complaint with the 4.0 is fuel economy and it isnt the cost, just how much fuel I need to have and add. Great build!
My Axis adapter keeps my ax-15 exactly at the OEM location. QuickDraw has some different adapters to look at too.
Your build sounds awesome already. I agree that mpg has more to do with all the additional volume and fill ups required. The low end torque is really nice with the 2.8 though I wouldn't overlook the VW TDI if you don't need the 306 ft lbs (360 with the non EPA tune).
However the easiest and cheapest path is to stick with 4.0, but that diesel grunt just brings a smile to my face. And the torque on the road is just incredible. I wouldn't expect 30mpg with your setup but you'll likely be around 20mpg highway or off road. I was at 11 mpg before so that's a massive improvement for be especially with more gear, higher suspension and roof rack I didn't have before my build.
@@bugoutjeep8065 thanks for the reply, my jeep is fairly heavy tipping the scales at about 5200 lbs and the 4.0 just doesn't seem to have the power to pull hills on the Wyoming roads. I am still pondering this swap.
With the 4.56 ratio, you shouldn't have too much trouble moving that much weight around with the 2.8, but you will likely need the Axis Cooling Package. I towed a 2k lb when empty trailer and about 1k lbs of stuff on that trailer with 3.07s for a week or so and it pulled pretty well in the Jeep, but the Jeep couldn't brake quickly at all.
Of course most V8 swaps would move you around too, but the MPG is still going to be rather low. I'd imagine 13 mpg with a V8 vs 20ish with the R2.8. The V8 would be more fun when you want to accelerate quickly, but the 2.8 does not accelerate very quickly, but it'll hold highway speeds pretty easily.
@@davidcamilleridfs690 if I change from the ax15 I’m going to try and go 6 speed auto (even if I manually shift it) and there’s a rear cover/adapter that can save an inch or so from QuickDraw I think. I would definitely go gps speedometer it really simplifies stuff and it gives you some shorter transfer case options. There is a tach wire but often you’ll need some kind of signal adapter.
I think eliminating the OEM pcm is the way to go. Also that’s mounted in an area where you need a bigger/dual battery and the pcm takes up space right there at the battery. I got the Dakota digital because my wife liked the look. Some other TJ guys didn’t care for the auto meter but imo it looks good. There’s a repowerowners forum and there’s a couple of really awesome gauge sets I’ve seen used with the r2.8. I didn’t know what I was doing at all with my gauges when I was first trying to get gauges and was trying to utilize the j1939, but that was the wrong path and there’s some awesome options out there including different Murphy gauges though I think those are really limited.
I do not have AC, but almost everything I have heard suggests you have to relocate the compressor in the TJ frame. I only know of the $1500 bracket from axis that works, but I could be wrong. I try to pull my doors as soon as it looks warm and I didn’t know my ac worked for over a year since I owned the Jeep and I daily drove it and it was not incredibly cold inside and I feel like a slouch cuz my grandfather didn’t get AC in his Jeep until he was 97.
@@bugoutjeep8065 It seems quick draw has some more reasonable options than axis. They have a mid mount a/c kit for 695.00. I have a black soft top and it gets very hot in the summer where I live. My wife and I took a ride in the badlands last sunday and I had the a/c on because my window sliders don't let a lot of air in. I am still on the fence about spending the money for the conversion, I would love the better fuel economy and increased low end torque, I think I could re-use my new aluminum radiator, my biggest concern is that my wife is having a hard time getting in and out of my jeep as her health degrades, on the other hand I like hard core off road and really want to build a set of snow tracks for the jeep and with a diesel engine it would be much more practical.
What kind of gas mileage are you getting with the swap?
I'm getting low 20s. Before the roof rack I was getting mid to high 20s even with mud tires. I'm lifted too and I've regeared and rebuilt the axles so everything is new and tight.
It's still better than the 11mpg I was getting with the 4.0L.
I'm not tuned either so remember these engines are not tuned for economy but will likely see a 10% increase in economy tuned properly.
Typically you're gonna see 40% better fuel economy with a diesel if the gas powertrain was properly setup. In my case the 4 L had to be setup for performance to handle highway and off-road.
Did you use the axis stuff?
Yes I did.
How much did you put into your build? I am curious to the cost because I am just considering purchasing the conversion kit that Axis offers on their website. It seems kind of outlandishly priced but after taking into consideration everything you mentioned it may be worth while to purchase that kit and have most everything you need.
The kit was cheaper when I got it, but it's quality stuff that saved A BUNCH of time. I don't have my spreadsheet in front of me, but I think with the engine and kit it was in the vicinity of $16k. I didn't go with AC either. Of course that didn't include gauges, exhaust, considerations for dual battery or large single battery and several other items you'll likely want to add or need to repair.
I have been driving my setup for over 3 years I think, though I've had the Jeep down for various maintenance and other builds, but the kit has been pretty much trouble free, besides where I rushed things too much. Also I probably did a few things wrong, because there just were fewer examples to go off of and I made a bunch of assumptions as a novice and in one instance installed some stuff in the wrong order and ended up messing up fairly substantially.
@@bugoutjeep8065 ah OK. That will probably be the route then. Thanks for the input it was extremely helpful. I'll hyu if I got any more questions.
@@dmb1881 yeah definitely. Ask anything, I've looked at so many different options for this build before I settled on this and I'm still looking at new options.
The conversions are a drug ! Just as gear heads do plus its safe as long its not drug money
Wow, this video has deflated me. Now. I don't want to do a damn thing. At all.
It is a lot of work and it never fully ends either. I even did a simple version of this build. Some guys machine and/or search junkyards for every single piece of this puzzle and their results are AMAZING, but the work is also AMAZING to get to that point, though some guys actually do some of this or stuff that's similar to this for a living and that obviously puts them in a different playing field.
At the end of the day it's incredibly satisfying being on trails with something you can't easily buy, but it also sucks when you breakdown as well, because you messed up something. However if I can find the time and money to do a project, I still love doing various DIY projects. However there have been many moments I didn't want to be in my garage working on something and wanted to be out camping or just having fun.
I want to put one in a bmw m3 now
That would be cool. I saw someone put these in an older Volvo and with a few mods the thing could really move and get like 40mpg.
Guys hear me out,
Im thinking of putting on of these engines in a 2006 mx5
Do it. It would be very cool and you'd get 40 mpg and it would scoot, especially with a tune.
If i had sum up this video after fully watching it, it seem your better off buildinh a car from scratch
I wouldn't say "from scratch", but I think the details will really make a difference longer term.
I would probably start with something, at least a frame, but that's just because I'm not a good enough mechanic and fabricator to go too far from a working vehicle. I would try to build off something that's close to your final goal. On a caveat I love the longevity you're going to get from a new car, but I don't love the repairs in 10 years nor the price. On these 20+ year old vehicles, most of the repairs are simple and cheap. Modern cars are so much more complex, they just aren't great platforms to start, but an older, simple framed vehicle is usually a good starting point.
However for a Jeep TJ, you already have one of the best vehicle from OEM EVER made from a reliability and ease and cost of working on stand point, except most Jeep drivers need low end torque for their desired applications and your torque starts being useful around 3,500 rpms. Re-gearing and completely restoring an OEM Jeep TJ, IMO is the BEST choice for the average driver, but driving around at 4k RPMS all the time has drawbacks too, but the 4.0 is a really good engine and those Jeeps are very simple and fairly robust. New Jeeps are better in most ways, but they are more complex and they are very pricey. However for some they are the appropriate starting point.
I would actually suggest a frame off full rebuild of a stock TJ if you kind of like Jeeps. I mean full too, because I'd even give the wiring attention too because of the age of these vehicles, the wiring is a problem too. If you are wanting something easy to build from scratch, there's A LOT of super cool buggy type builds out there that would be crazy fun and depending on where you live, can be made street legal.
SUCH A CITY BOY GET REAL I JUST DID A 351 AND AAUTO TRANS AND DRIVE SHAFTS ALL IN 3 DAYS FOR A YJ AND FOR LESS THAN 1000 BUCKS I PUT A GM 2.8 IN A YJ IN 1 WEEK FOR $3200
Good job. The Duramax 2.8? That would be very cool. But here it's WAY more expensive than $3200 where I'm at in KY.
I've got very little interest in V8s for the Jeeps because I've got a ZJ with a V8 already and it's a great for what it is, but I wanted something different in a TJ. My YJ truck I'm planning a 6BT with Allison. It's likely not gonna be cheap, but it'll easily pull most of my farm equipment once I swap in axles and brakes from a 1 ton and stretch it.
@@bugoutjeep8065 That YJ project sounds sick, would love to see some content on it. I'm dreaming stretching my old ranger and doing an r2.8 and SAS swap. Thanks for the video.
Whenever I get a chance I'll start going over it, but right now that project is so far on the backburner, though I'm going to try and acquire some parts. I can buy an international 7.3 V8 diesel pretty cheap from a buddy, but I think ultimately I want to get a 6BT in there with an automatic. I may possibly even pull my 5.9 from my Dodge 2500 one day, if I find an acceptable replacement truck.
Send me a link if you do your ranger, it would be a fun swap. When I drive my wife's Tacoma, I dream of swapping in a tuned R2.8 instead of the 4.0 in that truck. I think a 200 hp R2.8 with say a 6 speed auto would be AMAZING in a small truck. It wouldn't be fast, but the transmission wouldn't be constantly shifting. Now a 300+hp diesel in almost any truck would just simply be AWESOME. I keep hoping for a R3.8 one day, but I'm doubting those will ever be allowed in the US.
You’re so cute 😘
This video is 30 mins of rambling! MPG?
20 mpg to 30+ mpg depending on the setup and tuning. You can get over 40 if you want. I don't suggest doing this swap solely for mpg since fuel might be cheaper than the swap.
How are you going to have 3 min of you not being able to get up a hill 🤣
It's a Jeep thing...
10k for that 2.8? LOL. Way too rich for my blood