Thanks so much. Did the hack yesterday on a 2002 corolla with 230,000 miles and passed inspection today. In the past, a tank of premium gas worked. but this time ng. also tried Scotty Kilmer's suggestion to add one gallon of lacquer solvent and it helped but not enough. engine light did not come on for 60 miles vs. 40 prior to. also attempted the spark plug non fouler fix but could not budge the sensor with special sockets borrowed from advance auto, breaker bar with extension, and propane. 15 years of exhaust heat and salt air at the jersey shore! just as well - i'm sure the threads on the sensor and bung hole are shot. the hack was the last shot before donating the car. And it worked! Your science info. was excellent. Googled rc circuit and capacitor and learned more. You should get an award! but don't put in for it on earth (you may end up in the pokey)- wait for heaven. oh - got 5 resistors and a capacitor for 40 cents - 90% sale at a radio shack going out of business - it just keeps getting better!!
+JOHN HIGGINS Man I am really glad to hear it worked out for you and on a Corolla. Good to hear you tried the other methods. What resistor and capacitor values did you end up using?
1.0uF(50V, 20%) capacitor and 1Megaohm (1/2 watt, 5% tolerance) resistor. Basically the same values mentioned in your vid. I didn't have choice regarding values in parantheses as I was limited to what was in stock at the store which was closing. not that it mattered because I don't know enough to know the best values.
Wow! Man you've try everything on RUclips. Scotty Kilmer, non fouler fix and now this. I got a 2003 Corolla with 223000 miles and same issue so maybe I should just take this approach. Was going to do the gallon of lacquer solvent the if it don work then the non fouler fix but I had the same concern not being able to take the 02 sensor off and retro fit it. Car ran fine just the annoying check engine light and we don't do inspection in Minnesota.
I was pleasantly surprised that it worked and passed inspection. it has not yet been a week. i will update if light comes back on or goes 1,000 miles without coming back on. this may take a while as i have returned the car to my daughter who is currently doing limited driving. Like yours, the car runs fine but it does burn a quart of oil/month when driven ~ 1,000 miles. this may be connected to the catalytic converter malfuction/error code. so if you are considering the hack just to get rid of the light you may want to wait for my updates. if you do go ahead with it anyway, if a newbie, you should practice soldering first. it is easy but you need to take some precautions: sand the wires, use flux, and separate pieces to be soldered with pieces of sheet metal (so the solder on one connection doesn't inadvertently drip to another), and wrap with electrical tape to make sure the soldered connections do not touch each other and short. as your corolla is the next generation from my 2002 i think you may have easier access to the oxygen sensor connection by the passenger seat. once accessed, you should disconnect at the connector and strip and cut wires as shown in speedkar99's vid. there is no need to remove the oxygen sensor. all the work is can be completed in the car. i had to remove the front passenger seat and the shifter harness to get to the connector. but it seems access is easier for the 2003 model. came across this website for sensor access/removal which may prove useful to you: www.toyotanation.com/forum/132-corolla-9th-gen-1st-gen-matrix-2003-2008/1354081-diy-downstream-oxygen-sensor-replacement-2003-2008-corolla-lots-photos.html Good luck!
Update - Light came back on somewhere between 200-500 miles. but at least i passed inspection. So, Tous, I can't vouch for the hack to be effective on your 2003 corolla and your goal to eliminate the light, as inspection for emissions is not a consideration in your state.
The catalyst will have a lot of difficulty setting the monitor, due to not responding to the computer's intentional lean/rich commands.The computer will push these limits to TEST for an appropriate response from the catalytic converter. It looks for voltages ranging from 0.10 volts, to 0,90 volts. Outside these limits indicated a failed sensor. While a "steady reading" may be desired, the computer will force the system lean and look to see that it gets the expected response. It will do the same for the rich. The bypass will prevent these results from matching what is expected, and not let the catalytic monitor to set, OR will throw catalytic converter codes or REAR oxygen sensor codes. (Hope this clarifies a bit)
This is a great alternative to using a non-fouler with the O2 sensor and is even cheaper! You bought all the parts with the change you found on the carpet! I'll consider this fix for my '05 Element which has the same engine. Thanks!
it's an Electrolytic Capacitor before anyone comments.. the reason the signal is so smooth is the resistor limits the current for starters. and the capacitor acts like a controlled power source only allowing a limited current each time, by changing the capacitor you can alter the 'wave form' basic electronics.
Thanks for the video! My code reader isn't as advanced as yours, and neither is my grasp on your method. After trying and failing at putting the O2 sensor in a coupling (sensor was too big) I ended up changing the spark plugs, putting in high octane gasoline and seafoam additive, erasing the 420 code and driving until all 8 monitors cleared(about 75 miles). Then I headed right to the inspection station, passed inspection, and 10 miles later the 420 code came back on. At least I got a legit inspection sticker, so I can troubleshoot further without getting a ticket. Thanks again for the video, I was intimidated until I watched you at work.
i got this code from a bosch o2 sensor for my toyota. i bought a denso o2 sensor and the code went away. sometimes the brand does make the difference even though it shouldn't. great video!!!
Hello, which bank o2 sensor did you put fouler on? I added it to bank 1 on my 2006 toy sienna n it varies from 30 miles to about 300 miles before lights come back on. Will it work better on bank 2? Or should I have it on both banks?
@@kellismith4329 i have P0420 on my honda fit 2015 . Will adding fouler on secondary o2 sensor will turn off the engine check light . Or will the light come after a period of time
@@manuvaldavis1048 if there is an issue with your converter, you may have to remove it and put pipe instead - at that point your car will show a p0420 in it’s absence, then you install the antifouler to trick it into thinking the converter is still there. Driving with a messed up converter will only get worse and can mess up the engine
Finally, your Smoke Checked showed that "Catalyst Not Ready" and the "Catalyst Not Ready" is "Failure" of the Smoke Check in Van Nuys, California (Feb. 10, 2023) !
I would modify the harness on the O2 side instead of the factory harness. It is much easier to do also since you can do the work on the bench then do the install. I hope this helps and thanks for providing the great tip on fixing this annoying check engine light.
But then your fix is easily visible to anyone. If you have a commercial vehicle and get stuck in one of those DOT roadside inspections , you are looking at a major fine and even jail depending what State you are in.
The real fix is a new cat convertor. This is somewhat of a "band aid". But I am certainly willing to use it on my 2005 Accord with 320,000 miles. This seems to be the electronic equivalent of using a spark plug de-fouler. It's better though, because it might not be as visible when getting an inspection :) Thanks for the video.
I fixed the P0138 high voltage code that came on after this mod by using 1M and a 4.7uF along with another 1M resistor across the 4.7uF cap (signal to ground in the same spot as the cap). I now have a nice smooth line at about .8V and a happy ECM.
Thanks man. After I read about how O2 sensors output data I figured that you could make a circuit board, resistor, capacitor, and power source that would mimic the sensor output. This is way easier then what I was trying to do.
I did the mod but I have a problem now... we don't use kilometers in USA , I'll have to drive to Canada to drive a few kilometers and finalize my work .... ; )
1M Ohm + 1uF is way too high for the modern ECUs. This is technically an open circuit, you get a new P0138 DTC, and fix 1,28V. I tried with 330K + 1uF too, didnt worked.. Somebody wrote the correct values, but his comment has been deleted! I dont know why. 4,6K + 100uF, works like charm since 5000 miles. Many thanks for your recommendation.
i just done this on a 2003 toyota seinna. first attempt hooked up wrong. check engine light came on right away. redid it. but it took so long to go into readyness mode. but it worked. thanks
Just another person recommending this. 2013 Outback with too many km's to justify the $2000 catalytic converter replacement. This RC circuit has me seeing .52v steady when looking at an OBD scanning app on my phone. Here's hoping it works in the long term.
@@lostconciousness4255 Sadly no. For two days no CEL, then it popped up again, this time p2096 (I believe) for lean mixture. Fiddled and fiddled, finally no go. So I recently bought a new O2 sensor, currently waiting for the CEL to pop again. If it does, new cat for me.
If you modify the vehicle side of the harness, if that sensor ever fails, you won’t have to rebuild the RC circuit… good explanation of how a filter circuit works…
Awesome video! It looks like in this case you would have passed the emissions test even without the fix, since the catalyst monitor still was not ready at the time of the test. I've eliminated a p0420 in a couple vehicles by putting a couple of spark plug non-foulers between the sensor and the exhaust as a spacer (it doesn't seem like it would work but it does). It's important to point out that any work-around like this is only a temporary fix; the catalytic converter should be replaced to avoid increased emissions, exhaust restriction and eventual performance issues
I agree. The only thing is cars here in Canada (mine included) are very rusty so adding the anti-foulers or replacing the catalytic converter is a bit more challenging. Eventually when the cat fails pretty badly it will produce an O2 signal that the filter can't correct and throw a code.
Ah true, didn't even consider that fact. I'm spoiled since my cars are relatively rust-free (live in the Washington D.C. area). Is there an effective undercoating available, or is just a lost cause trying to fight the rust?
Its mostly a lost cause because of the amount of salt they use on the roads here in winter. The most you can do is rust proof annually and keep washing the car after snowstorms. It also depends on the vehicle manufacturer.
Joe Milton yes, I'd like to know if the vehicle was able to pass the catalyst monitor or not, since resetting the code is separate from the addition of the RC filter. without seeing that monitor pass, it's inconclusive whether the ECU screening parameters were changed sufficiently to enable it to pass. a diode in line for a peak hold may be better if the catalyst is in worse condition than just marginal.
0:29 Would you mind clarifying what 'orderly' means? Are we trying to limit the sensor amplitude readings, or enforce a more consistent time between peaks/troughs? I see you did both after the RC circuit was applied, but which of those effects was triggering the P0420 code? Also, any advice on how to find the Time constant for our specific vehicle, so that we can correctly choose the RC for our circuit? Or do your Resistor/Cap values work for anyone?
Man ... you are on another level, I bet you're an engineer, my fancy college Control proff doesn't know shit about these wiring stuff :( brilliant job bro, with some good marketing descriptions at the beginning/ending of your videos you should have at least a million subscriber in less than 6 months, you're simply incomparable with these clowns youtubers out there
Mr ravetti, your a failure at being any kind of mechanic. Each system takes a certain amount of learn time to be considered ready from the ecu standpoint. There are things like short term and long term fuel trim, evap , ac, purge, oxygen heated air effic. And could go on.. some systems require a specific milage to be driven at exactly 30mph without decel below that speed which may take a while before a car can be driven the dustance set by mfg to do in order to ready that particular system for a self diagnosis which some systems will even say not ready or even not available. If you remove a certain component or it has a defect ive seen the system completely not recognize its installed and the system still work such as ac... if your car smokes when you drive, it doesnt always mean its burning oil. There could be a neighbors cat stuck on your tailpipe..
Does this work on Chrysler Town and country, I have a 2011 with p0420 bank 1 , I was thinking of trying a spacer and came across this video, any advice is appreciated
Does using this fix negatively effect anything mileage/performance/reliability/longevity? I’m just saying, it’s tricking the vehicle to think everything is perfect when it really isn’t. I had MIL eliminators on my mustangs because they had no cats but they also had custom tunes installed instead of the factory programming. So with this fix you don’t need a custom tune? Thank you for your time. Great video as usual!
If you don't want to hack into the existing wiring harness you can just buy a replacement harness and modify it, then plug it into the existing connectors as an extra bit of cable to tuck away under the seat. Then it can be removed once you are through testing.
I got a p0420 message brought to shop to find out what needs to be fixed and they say I need to replace both cats and all oxygen sensors. Sounds like a massive scam.
So I used a 1mF capacitor and a 1 M ohm resistor and my signal has a low peak and stays very close to 0.4V. I am now getting a code of 'No activity' on bank 1 and 2. Should I use a different capacitor? Thoughts?
you are getting far too low of voltage you need to lower the resistance to allow more volts to flow through, the optimum voltage is lower than 0.7 and above 0.4 volts so 0.5 or 0.6 volts is perfect
Your pass with ONE "not ready" monitor caught my attention. However, some bad news: Ontario, Canada, Readiness Changes As of October 3, 2016, readiness conditional passes will no longer be issued.
+TheAnalogKid2 thank you for letting me know. You made me dig into this further and I found out they're changing the law April 1 so you don't need emissions to register a car anymore too. More time to get this fixed!
Question.....to keep the car original, for whatever reason, even to go back to stock at some later date....instead of cutting wires..... can you buy a pair of male-female connectors....to capture the "mods" here you wish to make....with the resister and capacitor captured between the new connectors to make an "assembly"....and then plug this "assembly" to the original car's wiring harness connector on one end..... and ( on the other side of the "Assembly")....to the sensor plug?
+Killya529 oh yes, that seems to be my luck with this Honda. So I cleaned the seat belt switch and the airbag light went out, then the CEL came back on for P1009 so I cleaned the VTC, and then now my washer fluid light is stuck on despite there being a jug of fluid in there, and of course my abs light is on because I broke the sensor when doing the ball joints...
A few have mentioned this, but you are missing some specification on your parts. Resistors will need a wattage and tolerance. Capacitor needs a type, tolerance and a voltage. Based on the video, one might assume you are using a standard electrolytic capacitor at 25 volts with maybe a 1/2 watt metal resistor (1%)? I believe that this is important to specify as many do not know much, if anything, about electronic components, so when they go to acquire them, they will need to know what they are asking for. I would not think any specification beyond the above is needed.
Very good points. This video was meant to show the theory behind an RC circuit and how it smoothenes the wave pattern. The actual values are going to vary per each vehicle and thus I'm not recommending a particular value.
@@speedkar99 Well, the only values that should need to change are the value of the resistor and capacitor. The missing data above should all basically remain the same. For example, whether you need a 1uF as described here or a 4.7uF as described by some others, the remaining specification should need not change. Regardless, to your point, it does a great job at describing the RC circuit.
I deleted my catalytic converter on my stock 2003 honda s2000. keep getting p0133 bank 1o2 sensor mostly every day within 50 - 100 miles after I erase it.. And every now and then I get a p0420 on my bank 2 o2 sensor. I'm using ram air intake. When you have time. Can you please let me know if I can try to fix my problem with your resistor/compacitor method on this video or do I need a hondata version 4 ecu and tune?if yes please tell me what size on bank1 and what size on bank 2.i really would appreciate it
Without a cat you'll always throw p0420 and you'll need a full simulator (and not just modify the existing one) As for the AF sensor that means there's an issue with your engines combustion, either a vacuum leak or busted injector.
I thought of doing this (electrical engineer), but I didn't want to risk using the wrong values and killing my computer. I think I'll try your values and see what I get. Thanks!
I ve replaced my O2 sensor "1" correctly with brand new oem parts. After few week , the warning light comes back again for the same problem. Is it something to do with a dirty mass air flow sensor ? i need advice to correct the problem. thank you !
@@speedkar99 i ve hacked bank 1 sensor , i m waiting for the result, no warning light at the moment. The last owner also hacked the bank 2 sensor for some reason(i don't know why). Unfortunately he did the resister on the -ve wire ,now i recorrect all his mistake.. ..Wait & see ! hope the warning lights don't come back
I don’t know if u still read this but just in case, I have a 2006 Toyota Highlander code 430 420 I did what u said with the com pastor and 1ohm r drove it 40 miles and the light came back on with the same code. What would u suggest I do?
I tried this on my ‘05 Subaru. I now have code P2096 - Post catalyst fuel trim system too lean. Should I vary the value of the capacitor or resistor? Sounds like I over corrected?
Thank you for a great in depth video, I have a V6 accord and I'll be trying this fix tomorrow for the bank 1 sensor, same code p0420. Two questions, in your diagram you showed the capacitor wired in series AFTER the resistor has been wired onto the blue wire (in parallel), where as in your actual wiring set up you have the cap wired before the resistor, does it make a difference? Secondly, my local radioshack has 1M-Ohm 1/2-Watt 5% resistors and 1.0uF 50V 20% Radial Bi-Polarized Electrolytic Capacitor, would these two work? Thank you in advance for any help.
+JnC445 thanks Yes wiring it backward makes a difference. With the values you'd have to try a few different ones to get the optimal RC constant for your ECU. Check digikey for a better selection of components.
+JnC445 thanks Yes wiring it backward makes a difference. With the values you'd have to try a few different ones to get the optimal RC constant for your ECU. Check digikey for a better selection of components.
+JnC445 thanks Yes wiring it backward makes a difference. With the values you'd have to try a few different ones to get the optimal RC constant for your ECU. Check digikey for a better selection of components.
+JnC445 thanks Yes wiring it backward makes a difference. With the values you'd have to try a few different ones to get the optimal RC constant for your ECU. Check digikey for a better selection of components.
I'm an emissions inspector, I'm calling the FBI, CIA, DIA, DoD, DHS, and the CBP to boot! You're screwed now buddy! Haha jk that's really genius but now I know what to look for! 😉
Hi, electrolytic capacitors have polarity, with one end marked negative and the other positive. How did you connect the cap in the circuit you built...? Thanks!
What about the o2 heater circuit? If the car requires heat from the cat to reach the correct temp, wouldn't the monitor hang up on the heater? Then the o2 sensor test would never run, unless your car requires a lower temp to run the heater test. In the case where the monitor hangs up on the o2 heater, what would you do?
I was referring to his mod specifically. I wasn't sure if the heaters would reach the correct temp without the cats installed. I'm guessing the heaters get hot enough for this mod to work on most vehicles, I was just throwing out the possibility of one not working without the additional heat from the cats. As for my issue (I still have cats, but this topic intrigues me anyway), I had a blown fuse that was causing all 4 o2 sensors to show a heater code, so the monitor wouldn't run.
Thanks for posting this. Should the specs of the capacitor change depending on the car brand or application? There is another video recommending a 4.7 uF capacitor. Also, do you know of this having worked on a Mercedes? The Mercedes ECM sends a number of tests to the sensor to check for integrity. I wonder whether this mod would trigger new CEL or faults.
The computer is looking for a voltage that doesn't fluctuate very much from the oxygen sensor. The larger capacitor value of 4.7uf should accomplish that as well as the 1uf recommended here.
Where do you buy those parts?Can I find those in any devices around the house like a broken Microwave or Old solid state devices?Is that more effective than the defouler that is all over Yutube?Is that legal to do in California?Thank you.
@@speedkar99 Will this work on 2009 Acura Tsx with po 420?But which converter there are two in TSX though.One in the exhaust Manifold and before the muffler.Thank you.$3,000 is the stealerships price on the one under the hood.
There is another hack for this. I wish I remembered what the part is called. You put an adapter in the hole behind the cat where the o2 sensor goes, the the sensor into that. All it does is pulls the sensor out of the exhaust flow so that it isn't able to get a good reading.
@@lostconciousness4255 no doubt. It'll work where they just plug in with no inspection. Hard to spend 2k on a vehicle that's worth 1k or less. Just gets you by to get the last year or two out of a car.
Is this mod better than the spacer? or the spacer with the mini catalytic converter? will it work on something like a new BMW or Audi, ? bu new I mean like 2010 to 2015 somewhat recent.
Do you think this will fix my 08 subaru tribeca p0420 fault code.Is there any other hack that would allow my cruise & traction control to work again? Thanks, Mark
The lengths people will go to just to avoid getting a proper repair... I get that money is sometimes the issue, but fix the car properly whenever possible. The type of person to do this bypass would be the same person who wouldn't tell a buyer about it if the car gets sold.
@speedkar99 I've been told to use anywhere from 1-500k ohm resistors and 10-20uf resistor. I dont know if it matters all that much, but in my Lexus IS300(Toyota) the ecus can be tricky to fool. Do you have any input on this?
I have a 2018 Malibu I had code p0420 only so I switched sensors downstream to up and 3 codes came up on top. So I thought ok maybe it’s sensor Now I put new sensor on top and stupid code came back p0420 so what can it be
So, before you did all this with the wiring, did you test the cat to know for sure the cat wasnt just bad? If you wanted to just fool the ecu, why not just use one of those rear o2 extenders and leave the wiring alone?
The ECU does it's self test and that's how it throws this code. The spark plug anti-fouler may work as well....but I don't want to deal with a Rusty exhaust
When checked with a special Emission OBD2 tool, my 2002 Sienna show Evap and Cat Not Ready . Many hours of youtube on this P0420, I about to run out of options. Before I build the RC filter, before I replace the Cat, I did this. 1) Added CataClean to 1/4 tank of 93 octane - TWICE; Cleared the code if it come up; Drove it and keep log of the millage. P0420 came up at 133 miles; I cleared the code again; fill up with 93 octane and drove it about 120 miles (purposely less than 133); go to the inspection center ; Ask the guy to use his special tool to check. The Evap showed it is ready and the Cat still Not Ready. But as long as you have only 1 condition, this model is allowed for inspection. My car passed. So I still use 93 octane; p0420 came up at 170 miles (wow 170 miles - 40 miles more than last time - but it is already passed the inspection); I cleared the code. And at this time, i have been driving 350 miles (with 93 octane and after 2 cataclean bottles) and no check engine code come up...yet. my next plan is to replace all spark plugs (recommend at 110K- the van has 182K miles. Conclusion - my CAT is OK ..not great but OK...It dont need to be replaced....I think because the spark plugs are old which unable to burn all fuel effectively, extra and dirty unburned fuel send down to the CAT/EVAP and messed it up, and the code come up. So if you get new plugs, then less crap going to the CAT/EVAP, it wont throw the code. An analogy to this is like your kitchen sink garbage disposal. If you let food get thru the sink, - even if you grind all the foods, your drainage will clogged up one day.
Hi, my check engine light on today . It say catalytic converter defect . But I have change it one month ago . Anyway I erase the code and check engine light gone . So my question is will it come back again. If so how long it will take to come back. Thanks Golf 5 ( 2008 ) 1.4 patrol engine I drove with bad kat about a week but no engine light on and after I drove another week without Kat no engine light on . When I change my both Kat and drove 500km not engine light. Then I put fuel injector cleaner and drove another 150 km . And after engine light on and it says on my obd2 Kat defect.
You failed to mention what size capacitor you used with the 1.0 megaohm resistor. Did you solder the negative side of the capacitor to the white wire? Did you use silver solder?
speedkar99 I have tried this on my 2004 Accord LX (a California vehicle) with SULEV & PZEV emissions. This only delayed the Catalyst Monitor. All monitors cleared except for the Catalyst. This stayed incomplete. After 3 drive cycles I received a CEL for Delayed 02 sensor function Bank 2. So this didn't work to clear the P420 code. In states where the Catalyst Monitor can remain incomplete this may work fine. Unfortunately in California completing this monitor is a requirement.
I learnt more in this one video than the last six months of trying sort out issues with my Audi S 5 👍
Did it fix your issue?
Thanks so much. Did the hack yesterday on a 2002 corolla with 230,000 miles and passed inspection today. In the past, a tank of premium gas worked. but this time ng. also tried Scotty Kilmer's suggestion to add one gallon of lacquer solvent and it helped but not enough. engine light did not come on for 60 miles vs. 40 prior to. also attempted the spark plug non fouler fix but could not budge the sensor with special sockets borrowed from advance auto, breaker bar with extension, and propane. 15 years of exhaust heat and salt air at the jersey shore! just as well - i'm sure the threads on the sensor and bung hole are shot. the hack was the last shot before donating the car. And it worked! Your science info. was excellent. Googled rc circuit and capacitor and learned more. You should get an award! but don't put in for it on earth (you may end up in the pokey)- wait for heaven. oh - got 5 resistors and a capacitor for 40 cents - 90% sale at a radio shack going out of business - it just keeps getting better!!
+JOHN HIGGINS Man I am really glad to hear it worked out for you and on a Corolla. Good to hear you tried the other methods. What resistor and capacitor values did you end up using?
1.0uF(50V, 20%) capacitor and 1Megaohm (1/2 watt, 5% tolerance) resistor. Basically the same values mentioned in your vid. I didn't have choice regarding values in parantheses as I was limited to what was in stock at the store which was closing. not that it mattered because I don't know enough to know the best values.
Wow! Man you've try everything on RUclips. Scotty Kilmer, non fouler fix and now this. I got a 2003 Corolla with 223000 miles and same issue so maybe I should just take this approach. Was going to do the gallon of lacquer solvent the if it don work then the non fouler fix but I had the same concern not being able to take the 02 sensor off and retro fit it. Car ran fine just the annoying check engine light and we don't do inspection in Minnesota.
I was pleasantly surprised that it worked and passed inspection. it has not yet been a week. i will update if light comes back on or goes 1,000 miles without coming back on. this may take a while as i have returned the car to my daughter who is currently doing limited driving. Like yours, the car runs fine but it does burn a quart of oil/month when driven ~ 1,000 miles. this may be connected to the catalytic converter malfuction/error code.
so if you are considering the hack just to get rid of the light you may want to wait for my updates. if you do go ahead with it anyway, if a newbie, you should practice soldering first. it is easy but you need to take some precautions: sand the wires, use flux, and separate pieces to be soldered with pieces of sheet metal (so the solder on one connection doesn't inadvertently drip to another), and wrap with electrical tape to make sure the soldered connections do not touch each other and short.
as your corolla is the next generation from my 2002 i think you may have easier access to the oxygen sensor connection by the passenger seat.
once accessed, you should disconnect at the connector and strip and cut wires as shown in speedkar99's vid. there is no need to remove the oxygen sensor. all the work is can be completed in the car. i had to remove the front passenger seat and the shifter harness to get to the connector. but it seems access is easier for the 2003 model.
came across this website for sensor access/removal which may prove useful to you:
www.toyotanation.com/forum/132-corolla-9th-gen-1st-gen-matrix-2003-2008/1354081-diy-downstream-oxygen-sensor-replacement-2003-2008-corolla-lots-photos.html
Good luck!
Update - Light came back on somewhere between 200-500 miles. but at least i passed inspection. So, Tous, I can't vouch for the hack to be effective on your 2003 corolla and your goal to eliminate the light, as inspection for emissions is not a consideration in your state.
I would have blacked out VIN data on your report, never know about the government. Great video BTW.
The catalyst will have a lot of difficulty setting the monitor, due to not responding to the computer's intentional lean/rich commands.The computer will push these limits to TEST for an appropriate response from the catalytic converter. It looks for voltages ranging from 0.10 volts, to 0,90 volts. Outside these limits indicated a failed sensor.
While a "steady reading" may be desired, the computer will force the system lean and look to see that it gets the expected response. It will do the same for the rich. The bypass will prevent these results from matching what is expected, and not let the catalytic monitor to set, OR will throw catalytic converter codes or REAR oxygen sensor codes. (Hope this clarifies a bit)
I bought a kit online for $20. It helped me connect to my ECU. I switched off all catalytic converter monitoring. Easy. No hardware.
source>?
This is a great alternative to using a non-fouler with the O2 sensor and is even cheaper! You bought all the parts with the change you found on the carpet! I'll consider this fix for my '05 Element which has the same engine. Thanks!
Non-fouler with the O2 sensor or 02 Sensor Spacer is not allowed to buy from California !
@@criticman5221 Didn't work for me at all. Had to buy a new downstream HO2 sensor. At least I didn't have to replace the cat!😆
Downstream sensor has to work in order for this to bypass the converter
Brilliant explanation on how the O2 sensor works bro you need to do more videos like this helped me understand a lot!
Most direct mater of fact tutorial with actual examples on the subject
Awesome tutorial
Thanks glad you learned from it
I'm an engineer and I FOUND THIS IMPRESSIVE SIR
Thanks
Now you try 😎
I was just about to say the same thing its rare to find videos like this
it's an Electrolytic Capacitor before anyone comments..
the reason the signal is so smooth is the resistor limits the current for starters.
and the capacitor acts like a controlled power source only allowing a limited current each time,
by changing the capacitor you can alter the 'wave form'
basic electronics.
I agree it it basic, yet some of the writings i have seen make this complicated
This is a really usefull tutorial
Thanks for the video! My code reader isn't as advanced as yours, and neither is my grasp on your method. After trying and failing at putting the O2 sensor in a coupling (sensor was too big) I ended up changing the spark plugs, putting in high octane gasoline and seafoam additive, erasing the 420 code and driving until all 8 monitors cleared(about 75 miles). Then I headed right to the inspection station, passed inspection, and 10 miles later the 420 code came back on. At least I got a legit inspection sticker, so I can troubleshoot further without getting a ticket. Thanks again for the video, I was intimidated until I watched you at work.
DEQs are bullshit any way, way to go for beating the system!
i got this code from a bosch o2 sensor for my toyota. i bought a denso o2 sensor and the code went away. sometimes the brand does make the difference even though it shouldn't. great video!!!
I couldn't get this to work after too many attempts with different values, so I made a spacer out of non-foulers and that worked wonderfully.
Hello, which bank o2 sensor did you put fouler on? I added it to bank 1 on my 2006 toy sienna n it varies from 30 miles to about 300 miles before lights come back on. Will it work better on bank 2? Or should I have it on both banks?
@@tomgaffney740 both banks, rear sensors only, and only if you have p0420 and/or p0430
@@kellismith4329 i have P0420 on my honda fit 2015 . Will adding fouler on secondary o2 sensor will turn off the engine check light . Or will the light come after a period of time
@@manuvaldavis1048 if there is an issue with your converter, you may have to remove it and put pipe instead - at that point your car will show a p0420 in it’s absence, then you install the antifouler to trick it into thinking the converter is still there. Driving with a messed up converter will only get worse and can mess up the engine
@@kellismith4329 if the problem is with o2 sensor, can we use fouler. Will it remove the error
Finally, your Smoke Checked showed that "Catalyst Not Ready" and the "Catalyst Not Ready" is "Failure" of the Smoke Check in Van Nuys, California (Feb. 10, 2023) !
I would modify the harness on the O2 side instead of the factory harness. It is much easier to do also since you can do the work on the bench then do the install. I hope this helps and thanks for providing the great tip on fixing this annoying check engine light.
Yeah good luck trying to remove the Rusty sensor
But then your fix is easily visible to anyone. If you have a commercial vehicle and get stuck in one of those DOT roadside inspections , you are looking at a major fine and even jail depending what State you are in.
Ya your repair won’t last long hanging under your car though
The real fix is a new cat convertor. This is somewhat of a "band aid". But I am certainly willing to use it on my 2005 Accord with 320,000 miles. This seems to be the electronic equivalent of using a spark plug de-fouler. It's better though, because it might not be as visible when getting an inspection :) Thanks for the video.
I fixed the P0138 high voltage code that came on after this mod by using 1M and a 4.7uF along with another 1M resistor across the 4.7uF cap (signal to ground in the same spot as the cap). I now have a nice smooth line at about .8V and a happy ECM.
You are welcome
Make and model?
Can you show diagram for your job
Thanks man. After I read about how O2 sensors output data I figured that you could make a circuit board, resistor, capacitor, and power source that would mimic the sensor output. This is way easier then what I was trying to do.
+daniel evans This is if your cat is still half working (below 90% efficient)
@@speedkar99 what if i don't have a cat?
I did the mod but I have a problem now... we don't use kilometers in USA , I'll have to drive to Canada to drive a few kilometers and finalize my work .... ; )
+tiz tiz haha good one.
50miles is the written word on them in the freedom land
asshole
You will one day. Just like you are usning kilograms in Hospitals.🤣🤣🤣
@ferkemall Citroën or Renault? Or Peugeot
You are my hero! Honda Civic Ej9 2000 fixed!
Good to know
Terrific Video... Thank you. Many things in it are way beyond my understanding, But i may muster up the nerve to try this!
Glad it helped
1M Ohm + 1uF is way too high for the modern ECUs. This is technically an open circuit, you get a new P0138 DTC, and fix 1,28V. I tried with 330K + 1uF too, didnt worked..
Somebody wrote the correct values, but his comment has been deleted! I dont know why.
4,6K + 100uF, works like charm since 5000 miles. Many thanks for your recommendation.
Thanks for your input, hope it helps those in the future looking to do this mod.
100uF isn't to high? or maybe you had in mind 1uF?
@@lukaszperski9370 No! 4,6K + 100uF 5V electrolyte. I use this setup since wrote the first comment. Works like a charm, no MIL.
i just done this on a 2003 toyota seinna. first attempt hooked up wrong. check engine light came on right away. redid it. but it took so long to go into readyness mode. but it worked. thanks
Do you recall if you used the 1M resistor and 1 microfarad capacitor?
@@bradleysmith1064 its been awhile buy yes with a 3 watt resistor i think i used a 6.3uf capacitor 16volt
great work i also have a solara. yours is so nice. mine is supercharged and it makes a big difference in acceleration
+jay7264 Sweet. Yea my solara can feel sluggish at times, you really have to give it throttle before it can pull.
Just another person recommending this. 2013 Outback with too many km's to justify the $2000 catalytic converter replacement. This RC circuit has me seeing .52v steady when looking at an OBD scanning app on my phone. Here's hoping it works in the long term.
@@lostconciousness4255 Sadly no. For two days no CEL, then it popped up again, this time p2096 (I believe) for lean mixture. Fiddled and fiddled, finally no go.
So I recently bought a new O2 sensor, currently waiting for the CEL to pop again. If it does, new cat for me.
If you modify the vehicle side of the harness, if that sensor ever fails, you won’t have to rebuild the RC circuit… good explanation of how a filter circuit works…
Awesome video! It looks like in this case you would have passed the emissions test even without the fix, since the catalyst monitor still was not ready at the time of the test. I've eliminated a p0420 in a couple vehicles by putting a couple of spark plug non-foulers between the sensor and the exhaust as a spacer (it doesn't seem like it would work but it does). It's important to point out that any work-around like this is only a temporary fix; the catalytic converter should be replaced to avoid increased emissions, exhaust restriction and eventual performance issues
I agree. The only thing is cars here in Canada (mine included) are very rusty so adding the anti-foulers or replacing the catalytic converter is a bit more challenging.
Eventually when the cat fails pretty badly it will produce an O2 signal that the filter can't correct and throw a code.
Ah true, didn't even consider that fact. I'm spoiled since my cars are relatively rust-free (live in the Washington D.C. area). Is there an effective undercoating available, or is just a lost cause trying to fight the rust?
Its mostly a lost cause because of the amount of salt they use on the roads here in winter.
The most you can do is rust proof annually and keep washing the car after snowstorms.
It also depends on the vehicle manufacturer.
Joe Milton
yes, I'd like to know if the vehicle was able to pass the catalyst monitor or not, since resetting the code is separate from the addition of the RC filter. without seeing that monitor pass, it's inconclusive whether the ECU screening parameters were changed sufficiently to enable it to pass. a diode in line for a peak hold may be better if the catalyst is in worse condition than just marginal.
double posted
Your videos are fantastic man. Learning a ton off your videos. Keep up the good work! By the way what kind of scan tool is that?
You are a genius bro this is awesome
Thanks. Did it work for you?
0:29 Would you mind clarifying what 'orderly' means?
Are we trying to limit the sensor amplitude readings, or enforce a more consistent time between peaks/troughs? I see you did both after the RC circuit was applied, but which of those effects was triggering the P0420 code?
Also, any advice on how to find the Time constant for our specific vehicle, so that we can correctly choose the RC for our circuit? Or do your Resistor/Cap values work for anyone?
Hi i bought a Toyota celica, the last owner has done both sensors with the same trick as you. Should i remove the tricker on the sensors number two. ?
What kind of code reader scanner is that I'd like to know I'd like to get one seems like a good one
Yeah
Man ... you are on another level, I bet you're an engineer, my fancy college Control proff doesn't know shit about these wiring stuff :( brilliant job bro, with some good marketing descriptions at the beginning/ending of your videos you should have at least a million subscriber in less than 6 months, you're simply incomparable with these clowns youtubers out there
+moe raw thanks I'm glad you appreciate the effort I put into my videos. I'm a mechanical engineer with not much knowledge of electronics.
He's not an engineer, he's just not American that's why he's smart
Putting an O2 sensor spacer on the #2 sensor is much easier and works just as well.
Tried that on several occasions, it didn't work, check light luminates after few kilometers drives
I thought the "catalyst" was the catalytic converter, the one you spoofed, so wouldn't that not be ready for emissions testing?
This.
With catalytic not ready... this fix is a failure
Mr ravetti, your a failure at being any kind of mechanic. Each system takes a certain amount of learn time to be considered ready from the ecu standpoint. There are things like short term and long term fuel trim, evap , ac, purge, oxygen heated air effic. And could go on.. some systems require a specific milage to be driven at exactly 30mph without decel below that speed which may take a while before a car can be driven the dustance set by mfg to do in order to ready that particular system for a self diagnosis which some systems will even say not ready or even not available. If you remove a certain component or it has a defect ive seen the system completely not recognize its installed and the system still work such as ac... if your car smokes when you drive, it doesnt always mean its burning oil. There could be a neighbors cat stuck on your tailpipe..
one not ready monitor is allowed; at least the MIL is off
Does this work on Chrysler Town and country, I have a 2011 with p0420 bank 1 , I was thinking of trying a spacer and came across this video, any advice is appreciated
yeahhh, it worked!!! i tried on my Civic 1.7 2004 and no more check engine light..
Jijie Ko haha... civic...
Does this save you from replacing the cat or sensor ?
Does using this fix negatively effect anything mileage/performance/reliability/longevity? I’m just saying, it’s tricking the vehicle to think everything is perfect when it really isn’t. I had MIL eliminators on my mustangs because they had no cats but they also had custom tunes installed instead of the factory programming. So with this fix you don’t need a custom tune? Thank you for your time. Great video as usual!
Eventually you'll need a new catalytic converter
@@speedkar99and what if you don't have a cat there
I have a 92 3.1 rodeo with one oxygen sensor that only has one wire how do I bypass that to eliminate the code.?
If you don't want to hack into the existing wiring harness you can just buy a replacement harness and modify it, then plug it into the existing connectors as an extra bit of cable to tuck away under the seat. Then it can be removed once you are through testing.
i also found Japanese coins from my car during interior wash :)
That's cool! Was your car a JDM import?
Great video! Will this enable the catalyst monitor to go into complete/ready status?
I got a p0420 message brought to shop to find out what needs to be fixed and they say I need to replace both cats and all oxygen sensors. Sounds like a massive scam.
Try this and the spacer first
So I used a 1mF capacitor and a 1 M ohm resistor and my signal has a low peak and stays very close to 0.4V. I am now getting a code of 'No activity' on bank 1 and 2. Should I use a different capacitor? Thoughts?
Yes
Johnathan Reid i used a 4.7 capicitator. Got the same errorcode p0140. Which capicitator do you advice? (Mazda 6 4 wires o2 sensor?
you are getting far too low of voltage you need to lower the resistance to allow more volts to flow through, the optimum voltage is lower than 0.7 and above 0.4 volts so 0.5 or 0.6 volts is perfect
VileStorms when i try this I’m getting error code p2271( signal stuck rich) any ideas???
bro you are a genius much love from Boston!!!
Your pass with ONE "not ready" monitor caught my attention. However, some bad news:
Ontario, Canada, Readiness Changes
As of October 3, 2016, readiness conditional passes will no longer be issued.
+TheAnalogKid2 thank you for letting me know. You made me dig into this further and I found out they're changing the law April 1 so you don't need emissions to register a car anymore too. More time to get this fixed!
Depending on year of vehicle, you dont need all monitors to be "ready"
Hopefully this all gets scrapped now anyways...
speedkar99 does this mod prevent the cat monitor from completing?
Also which side is the mod dobe on ecm if harnes or o2 side
Wow you are a fu$#ing genius lol well done!
+johngamache7 thanks
+johngamache7 thanks
2:43 --> LOL!!!!
Question.....to keep the car original, for whatever reason, even to go back to stock at some later date....instead of cutting wires..... can you buy a pair of male-female connectors....to capture the "mods" here you wish to make....with the resister and capacitor captured between the new connectors to make an "assembly"....and then plug this "assembly" to the original car's wiring harness connector on one end..... and ( on the other side of the "Assembly")....to the sensor plug?
"Got rid of one idiot light and this other one shows up" lmao, they'll keep you busy
+Killya529 oh yes, that seems to be my luck with this Honda. So I cleaned the seat belt switch and the airbag light went out, then the CEL came back on for P1009 so I cleaned the VTC, and then now my washer fluid light is stuck on despite there being a jug of fluid in there, and of course my abs light is on because I broke the sensor when doing the ball joints...
good
Exactly what I was looking for
Lol!!!! U get rid of on check engine light and another light pops up!! So true!!!
Always
A few have mentioned this, but you are missing some specification on your parts. Resistors will need a wattage and tolerance. Capacitor needs a type, tolerance and a voltage. Based on the video, one might assume you are using a standard electrolytic capacitor at 25 volts with maybe a 1/2 watt metal resistor (1%)? I believe that this is important to specify as many do not know much, if anything, about electronic components, so when they go to acquire them, they will need to know what they are asking for. I would not think any specification beyond the above is needed.
Very good points. This video was meant to show the theory behind an RC circuit and how it smoothenes the wave pattern. The actual values are going to vary per each vehicle and thus I'm not recommending a particular value.
@@speedkar99 Well, the only values that should need to change are the value of the resistor and capacitor. The missing data above should all basically remain the same. For example, whether you need a 1uF as described here or a 4.7uF as described by some others, the remaining specification should need not change. Regardless, to your point, it does a great job at describing the RC circuit.
Badass! I love it. good work again :) Also, yay! Canada ;)
+Ali Shaarawi Happy Canada day
I deleted my catalytic converter on my stock 2003 honda s2000. keep getting p0133 bank 1o2 sensor mostly every day within 50 - 100 miles after I erase it.. And every now and then I get a p0420 on my bank 2 o2 sensor. I'm using ram air intake. When you have time. Can you please let me know if I can try to fix my problem with your resistor/compacitor method on this video or do I need a hondata version 4 ecu and tune?if yes please tell me what size on bank1 and what size on bank 2.i really would appreciate it
Without a cat you'll always throw p0420 and you'll need a full simulator (and not just modify the existing one)
As for the AF sensor that means there's an issue with your engines combustion, either a vacuum leak or busted injector.
I thought of doing this (electrical engineer), but I didn't want to risk using the wrong values and killing my computer. I think I'll try your values and see what I get. Thanks!
Cool! It's a good start , hopefully you get it tuned for the right frequency
@@speedkar99 where do I buy a capacitor and a rc circuit?
Hi, on my Lexus 3.3 v6 it has a 3 oxygen sensors. Which one I have to solder this elements ? The last one (third) sensor I guess, right?
Dam iam trying this hats off to you bro.
+Worm Mongoose thanks
I ve replaced my O2 sensor "1" correctly with brand new oem parts. After few week , the warning light comes back again for the same problem. Is it something to do with a dirty mass air flow sensor ? i need advice to correct the problem. thank you !
The catalytic converter is probably below efficiency and needs to be hacked or replaced
@@speedkar99 yes, it is the cat . i will hack it as yr method
@@speedkar99 i ve hacked bank 1 sensor , i m waiting for the result, no warning light at the moment. The last owner also hacked the bank 2 sensor for some reason(i don't know why). Unfortunately he did the resister on the -ve wire ,now i recorrect all his mistake.. ..Wait & see ! hope the warning lights don't come back
Check your wiring
Can something be done like this with the evap system? Specifically to bypass p0456 small leak code?
Not as easily. Better to have your ECU programmed
You forgot to mention that the capacitor is directional AND which way to install it.
True
@@speedkar99 will this work on a bmw 750? 2006 model?
I've got an 01 Lexus is300. Should I use a 1 or 4.7 uf capacitor?
the mod paid for itself....lol
It sure did!
I don’t know if u still read this but just in case, I have a 2006 Toyota Highlander code 430 420 I did what u said with the com pastor and 1ohm r drove it 40 miles and the light came back on with the same code. What would u suggest I do?
Use an oxygen sensor scanner, graph outputs and see the difference. If you have the V6 you've got two banks to compare it against
I tried this on my ‘05 Subaru. I now have code P2096 - Post catalyst fuel trim system too lean. Should I vary the value of the capacitor or resistor? Sounds like I over corrected?
Yes
Speed kar did you ever have any issues out of this mod ..im about ri try it on a 2006 lexus gs300
Not for a while. It was enough to pass the emissions we had at the time.
I have a 08 GMC Yukon and have changed out the catalytic converter and oxygen sensors and still getting a P0430 and P0420 codes.
Sure you have enough solder on the wires . Could perhaps I should add a bit more ?
Thank you for a great in depth video, I have a V6 accord and I'll be trying this fix tomorrow for the bank 1 sensor, same code p0420. Two questions, in your diagram you showed the capacitor wired in series AFTER the resistor has been wired onto the blue wire (in parallel), where as in your actual wiring set up you have the cap wired before the resistor, does it make a difference?
Secondly, my local radioshack has 1M-Ohm 1/2-Watt 5% resistors and 1.0uF 50V 20% Radial Bi-Polarized Electrolytic Capacitor, would these two work? Thank you in advance for any help.
+JnC445 thanks
Yes wiring it backward makes a difference.
With the values you'd have to try a few different ones to get the optimal RC constant for your ECU. Check digikey for a better selection of components.
+JnC445 thanks
Yes wiring it backward makes a difference.
With the values you'd have to try a few different ones to get the optimal RC constant for your ECU. Check digikey for a better selection of components.
+JnC445 thanks
Yes wiring it backward makes a difference.
With the values you'd have to try a few different ones to get the optimal RC constant for your ECU. Check digikey for a better selection of components.
+JnC445 thanks
Yes wiring it backward makes a difference.
With the values you'd have to try a few different ones to get the optimal RC constant for your ECU. Check digikey for a better selection of components.
bruh bruh bruh bruh
I'm an emissions inspector, I'm calling the FBI, CIA, DIA, DoD, DHS, and the CBP to boot! You're screwed now buddy!
Haha jk that's really genius but now I know what to look for! 😉
Cool
Critical Inception Or you can just make your $10 an hour and let people slide on through like the cool guy you are right?
Hi, electrolytic capacitors have polarity, with one end marked negative and the other positive. How did you connect the cap in the circuit you built...? Thanks!
Check the circuit diagram
Did the catalyist monitor ever get ready?? Or does this keep it incomplete forever?
I don't recall
What are the specs. for the capacitor and the resistor? uF and Wats. Great Video.
I used a 1M ohm resistor and 4.7 micro farad capacitor. Worked great on an E46 BMW
I did this years ago and it worked for a 98 Corolla but not for a 02 Pathfinder.
Ok good to know
What about the o2 heater circuit? If the car requires heat from the cat to reach the correct temp, wouldn't the monitor hang up on the heater? Then the o2 sensor test would never run, unless your car requires a lower temp to run the heater test. In the case where the monitor hangs up on the o2 heater, what would you do?
+Captain heater is a separate circuit
If thats broken you need a new sensor
I was referring to his mod specifically. I wasn't sure if the heaters would reach the correct temp without the cats installed. I'm guessing the heaters get hot enough for this mod to work on most vehicles, I was just throwing out the possibility of one not working without the additional heat from the cats. As for my issue (I still have cats, but this topic intrigues me anyway), I had a blown fuse that was causing all 4 o2 sensors to show a heater code, so the monitor wouldn't run.
Captain he never messed with the heated shit at all... heat makes the sensors work instantly and give accurate readings faster ya goob
You have a bad o2 sensor ( o2 sensor heater circuit is bad) change 02 sensor
The heater purpose is so the computer will go into closed loop fuel control faster. O2 sensors need to be at operating temp to generate a signal
Good vid my fellow Ontarian thank goodness they have done away with tht stupid e test!
Yes they are finally done with that test! Now I can fearlessly buy old clunkers again
Thanks for posting this. Should the specs of the capacitor change depending on the car brand or application? There is another video recommending a 4.7 uF capacitor. Also, do you know of this having worked on a Mercedes? The Mercedes ECM sends a number of tests to the sensor to check for integrity. I wonder whether this mod would trigger new CEL or faults.
The computer is looking for a voltage that doesn't fluctuate very much from the oxygen sensor. The larger capacitor value of 4.7uf should accomplish that as well as the 1uf recommended here.
Where do you buy those parts?Can I find those in any devices around the house like a broken Microwave or Old solid state devices?Is that more effective than the defouler that is all over Yutube?Is that legal to do in California?Thank you.
Rockauto
@@speedkar99 Will this work on 2009 Acura Tsx with po 420?But which converter there are two in TSX though.One in the exhaust Manifold and before the muffler.Thank you.$3,000 is the stealerships price on the one under the hood.
@@efrensaclolo7021 did it work for you?
There is another hack for this.
I wish I remembered what the part is called.
You put an adapter in the hole behind the cat where the o2 sensor goes, the the sensor into that. All it does is pulls the sensor out of the exhaust flow so that it isn't able to get a good reading.
That's using a sparkplug nonfouler with the bottom drilled out of it.
@@codybess74 yup, that was it. Long time ago a couple of years, and still working.
@@markchidester6239 this is a good method but smog shops know to check for this and it's an insta-fail
@@lostconciousness4255 no doubt. It'll work where they just plug in with no inspection.
Hard to spend 2k on a vehicle that's worth 1k or less. Just gets you by to get the last year or two out of a car.
Is this mod better than the spacer? or the spacer with the mini catalytic converter?
will it work on something like a new BMW or Audi, ? bu new I mean like 2010 to 2015 somewhat recent.
Do you think this will fix my 08 subaru tribeca p0420 fault code.Is there any other hack that would allow my cruise & traction control to work again? Thanks, Mark
That is very clever, just make sure they don't come after you.
+mrjost55 thanks
Excuse me sir, what time does the 9 o:clock bus arrive? I need to go to town to buy these parts to put in my 2025 Ford Futura.
Ok
The lengths people will go to just to avoid getting a proper repair... I get that money is sometimes the issue, but fix the car properly whenever possible. The type of person to do this bypass would be the same person who wouldn't tell a buyer about it if the car gets sold.
Thankfully we don't have emissions testing anymore.
is it ok if i use 1/8 watt 1M ohm resistor? or does it need a bigger watt resistor thanks in advance
It's trial and error. See what RC value works for you
Hello, thx for video, but how can I solve this problem on a titanium oxygen sensor? It has a different measurement procedure .. THX!
Not sure.
Same thing
@speedkar99 I've been told to use anywhere from 1-500k ohm resistors and 10-20uf resistor. I dont know if it matters all that much, but in my Lexus IS300(Toyota) the ecus can be tricky to fool. Do you have any input on this?
your the man
I have a 2018 Malibu
I had code p0420 only so I switched sensors downstream to up and 3 codes came up on top. So I thought ok maybe it’s sensor
Now I put new sensor on top and stupid code came back p0420 so what can it be
You always kick ass man! Thanks.
Because the Catalyst test was not complete, we don't know if this fixed the P0420 code and it could pop on in the middle of the smog test.
Most states can’t pass you if the Catylist is inc, any other category you are allowed one
So, before you did all this with the wiring, did you test the cat to know for sure the cat wasnt just bad?
If you wanted to just fool the ecu, why not just use one of those rear o2 extenders and leave the wiring alone?
The ECU does it's self test and that's how it throws this code.
The spark plug anti-fouler may work as well....but I don't want to deal with a Rusty exhaust
ok makes sense; but since your giving the ecu false data, does this screw with the cars air fuel ratio?
i dont know if this will work but man good vid.
When checked with a special Emission OBD2 tool, my 2002 Sienna show Evap and Cat Not Ready . Many hours of youtube on this P0420, I about to run out of options. Before I build the RC filter, before I replace the Cat, I did this. 1) Added CataClean to 1/4 tank of 93 octane - TWICE; Cleared the code if it come up; Drove it and keep log of the millage. P0420 came up at 133 miles; I cleared the code again; fill up with 93 octane and drove it about 120 miles (purposely less than 133); go to the inspection center ; Ask the guy to use his special tool to check. The Evap showed it is ready and the Cat still Not Ready. But as long as you have only 1 condition, this model is allowed for inspection. My car passed.
So I still use 93 octane; p0420 came up at 170 miles (wow 170 miles - 40 miles more than last time - but it is already passed the inspection); I cleared the code. And at this time, i have been driving 350 miles (with 93 octane and after 2 cataclean bottles) and no check engine code come up...yet. my next plan is to replace all spark plugs (recommend at 110K- the van has 182K miles.
Conclusion - my CAT is OK ..not great but OK...It dont need to be replaced....I think because the spark plugs are old which unable to burn all fuel effectively, extra and dirty unburned fuel send down to the CAT/EVAP and messed it up, and the code come up. So if you get new plugs, then less crap going to the CAT/EVAP, it wont throw the code. An analogy to this is like your kitchen sink garbage disposal. If you let food get thru the sink, - even if you grind all the foods, your drainage will clogged up one day.
+Thien Nguyen glad it worked
Hi, my check engine light on today . It say catalytic converter defect . But I have change it one month ago . Anyway I erase the code and check engine light gone . So my question is will it come back again. If so how long it will take to come back. Thanks
Golf 5 ( 2008 )
1.4 patrol engine
I drove with bad kat about a week but no engine light on and after I drove another week without Kat no engine light on . When I change my both Kat and drove 500km not engine light. Then I put fuel injector cleaner and drove another 150 km . And after engine light on and it says on my obd2 Kat defect.
You failed to mention what size capacitor you used with the 1.0 megaohm resistor. Did you solder the negative side of the capacitor to the white wire? Did you use silver solder?
Regular tin solder
Does this work to clear the Catalyst Monitor? As of last year 2016-In California-were allowed one "not ready" monitor excluding the Catalyst Monitor.
+James Lancaster last I checked it was not ready, I didn't check after driving a few more thousand kms though. We are allowed one not ready here.
speedkar99 I have tried this on my 2004 Accord LX (a California vehicle) with SULEV & PZEV emissions. This only delayed the Catalyst Monitor. All monitors cleared except for the Catalyst. This stayed incomplete. After 3 drive cycles I received a CEL for Delayed 02 sensor function Bank 2. So this didn't work to clear the P420 code. In states where the Catalyst Monitor can remain incomplete this may work fine. Unfortunately in California completing this monitor is a requirement.
James Lancaster so this mod will cause the cat monitor to stay in the not ready state? Or you just need to drive till that monitor is complete?
plz.... Kindly ,,,, I have four different colors ,,,,, gray ,,,, black .... and two white
Does your method work for me?
I have a 2006 suzuki forenza will this work on this car?