Krzysiu, I am very impressed with ur skills more and more with each job you post. You show what a true machinist does on a daily basis. No fluff no fancy editing just real machining. I'm a big fan.
For jobs like this, you'd probably have a machine that does it. Think lathe, but welds instead. At least for the OD, for some of the detailing and touchups you'd have some hands on of course.
@@orangedream267 the only welds done by hand would be the very first pass and then the last pass. the rest of it would be done on a rotator that spins the piece and the welding gun is just attached to a holder. ever full rotation the welder just spins a dial and the gun moves a bit.
@@alexnorth757 Not necessarily. I used to have to restore the wheels on cold war era hanger doors. They were bigger, nearly 3 feet across (imagine train wheels but with two flanges) and had to be built up in the same way before re machining. All done by hand rolling them on a piece of pipe suspended on two trestles. Did dozens of them.
I can't say I've ever seen digital calipers that large before. All our larger calipers are vernier. Great video though as always, I enjoyed the time lapse of you switching the jaws around and the slow motion chips flying off.
In my workplace, we are using a 600mm (24") Mitutoyo digital caliper for daily measuring. As inspected with our CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine) it has a +-0,02..0,03mm (around 0.001") accuracy through the whole scale. However we have a 1000mm (40") long too, but it is only vernier, with a resolution of 0.05mm (0.002"), but we barely using it as our works rarely have dimensions larger than 600mm.
I learned to drive on vernier’s, and regardless of what others have opined, with the right operator they are very accurate... my eyesight is now fuked and I have to rely on digitals.
7:14 I think it is absolutely fascinating the 'blue spirals of steel' that peel off of turning work. Fluffy silver haired angel hair that will cut your fingers off in a turn. I like chips especially big drill ones look like the "flowers of Avatar".
I think the thing that impressed me the most was how the cutters sounded while going through that weld. Ours tend to make so much chatter and noise while I couldn't even hear anything other than chips falling
Aqui no Brazil o ofício de torneiro mecânico ser vê.para deichar patrão rico ....o torneiro só ganha 2 por cento.do serviço realizado .sempre.trabalhei para os outros nunca tive.nada.e os.patroes.para os.quais trabalhei enriqueceram as minhas custas ..
Sudden flashback of getting feed-rate or speed wrong on big items and swarf chips transform into blue-hot wires that loop everywhere and had to be pulled off with a big hook (After stopping it, obviously...)
Na spawaniu to ja się nie bardzo znam. Co dokładne to poprawione najważniejszy był otwór ale na szczęście się skurczył tak że było z czeg poprawić. Środek nie spawali żeby było się od czego ustawić. Jak to mówią "stary a nowiusieńki". Pozdrawiam.
Nie wiem co ale czasem twoje komentarze nie pokazuje na youtube. Rurki dosyć dużej średnicy to raczej za proste to nie były. Bardziej mi chodziło o to żeby nie zrobić z nich kwadratu a utrzymać jakiś wymiar. Wesołych Świąt.
@@ChrisMaj odnośnie komentarzy tak to prawda nie są wyświetlane ,nikogo nie chejtuje ani nie obrażam piszę to na czym się znam i to co robię dzięki za odpowiedź 😁😁😁😁😁
G'day! Chris 'ere and welcome back to Clickspring on Steroids.... Today we're going to make the mainspring arbor for a new clock I'm building from this pile of welding rod. :)
I saw a setup just like that destroy a brand new CNC boring mill. Don't mistake luck for skill.. hold the part properly in the machine chuck. Very very very dangerous to use that wimpy 3 jaw chuck in the 4 jaw machine chuck. Chuck jaws do break.....
@@ChrisMaj Yes and the torque that part can generate will snap those little jaws clean off. You can take the risk. It's not my shop. It's not my machine. But I would not recommend this practice. Like I said I saw a boring mill destroyed using chuck in chuck because the small chuck was just too light for the crash. The part was tossed and got pinned between the table and the overhead rail cracking the casting. The machine was finished... That's not speculation, just a fact of more than 30 years doing this stuff. I've seen some ugly stuff that "ooops" just don't cover.
est-ce vraiment rentable de rajouter des couches de soudure (je sais pas combien de temps ça a pris pour faire ce rajout de matière avec de la soudure mais ce doit être énorme) et ensuite usiner la pièce comme tu le fais dans cette vidéo? Surtout que l'on peut voir un manque de matière sur le Ø intérieur de la pièce par manque de soudure. Du coup es-tu obligé de rajouter cette soudure et donc refaire ton montage pour ré-usiner? Je pense que ça ne vaut vraiment pas le coup de faire comme tu le fais. C'est beaucoup prise de tête et risqué comme procédé de réparation.
They all have their purpose. I like WNMG for general light turning, CNMG for heavy cuts, DCMT for finishing, CCMT for boring. WNMG are, in my books, the most cost effective general purpose insert. CNMG can do anything a WNMG can do and more, but they’re around 20% less cost effective for general light turning.
@@user-vy2jr4kp4k same angle as CMNG, same cutting force, but CNMG has a longer edge to IC ratio so when you take really deep heavy cuts it doesn’t point load the little point between the two cutting points, and it doesn’t undercut the material as far, giving more even force. I generally used WNMG for any cut up to about 4mm DOC, anything over that I use CNMG. A trigon tip is around 10-20% more expensive, but you get 50% more cutting edges so they are certainly more cost effective, but I still prefer CNMG for heavy cutting. I use both, I like them both, they just have different purposes for me. If I’m turning long thin stuff, I will generally use a positive insert like a CCMT but if it’s nice and thick and solid, tear in with CNMG’s
Krzysiu, I am very impressed with ur skills more and more with each job you post. You show what a true machinist does on a daily basis. No fluff no fancy editing just real machining. I'm a big fan.
Thanks man I appreciate it.
Whoever did the welding, did an exceptional job. This part could not have been rebuilt without a very patient and very experienced welder.
Yeah he did alright 😉
For jobs like this, you'd probably have a machine that does it. Think lathe, but welds instead. At least for the OD, for some of the detailing and touchups you'd have some hands on of course.
@@orangedream267 the only welds done by hand would be the very first pass and then the last pass. the rest of it would be done on a rotator that spins the piece and the welding gun is just attached to a holder. ever full rotation the welder just spins a dial and the gun moves a bit.
@@alexnorth757 Not necessarily. I used to have to restore the wheels on cold war era hanger doors. They were bigger, nearly 3 feet across (imagine train wheels but with two flanges) and had to be built up in the same way before re machining. All done by hand rolling them on a piece of pipe suspended on two trestles. Did dozens of them.
I have no idea what this piece of steel is used for nor am I involved in any way in this industry but I can’t stop watching these videos!!
Most of my work is steel mill industry.
Appreciate this one as i am a welder and have done similar repairs myself, but seeing the finished article is really the best part.
I can't say I've ever seen digital calipers that large before. All our larger calipers are vernier. Great video though as always, I enjoyed the time lapse of you switching the jaws around and the slow motion chips flying off.
In my workplace, we are using a 600mm (24") Mitutoyo digital caliper for daily measuring. As inspected with our CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine) it has a +-0,02..0,03mm (around 0.001") accuracy through the whole scale. However we have a 1000mm (40") long too, but it is only vernier, with a resolution of 0.05mm (0.002"), but we barely using it as our works rarely have dimensions larger than 600mm.
I learned to drive on vernier’s, and regardless of what others have opined, with the right operator they are very accurate... my eyesight is now fuked and I have to rely on digitals.
we are using a 1500mm caliper :D
7:14 I think it is absolutely fascinating the 'blue spirals of steel' that peel off of turning work. Fluffy silver haired angel hair that will cut your fingers off in a turn. I like chips especially big drill ones look like the "flowers of Avatar".
I've done so many jobs like this for paper mills.Great video
I am in awe of that chuck size though
You had to put a smaller chuck in your normal chuck to fit this thing
Loved watching the weld change into flat and nice ! Well done !
I think the thing that impressed me the most was how the cutters sounded while going through that weld. Ours tend to make so much chatter and noise while I couldn't even hear anything other than chips falling
There are a lot of steps that aren't shown that would be very interesting to know. Great stuff as usual.
Yeah I know, but I'm trying to record and work at the same time.
Trabalho perfeito, parabéns, ficou muito bom.
Great work as always, thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Cheers!
"Hey remember that payoff reel nosepiece we did six months ago?" "Yeah, rings a bell..."
We did basically the same process on train car wheels for the mines around here when I was growing up .
That's a hell of a lot of weld.
Looks even enough to be CNC welding.
Butt there's No wonder it had a shrinking effect.
Nice work.
Great point!
That’s the reason I love being a machinist.
Those have to be some crazy hard cutters.
Nice work 💪🏼
What I don't understand, is your water on off strategy. In all of your videos.
It helps with finish and tool life, but it's easier to get cameras in with it off.
I know it's not recommended for tool life, but I just don't want to get my camera wet.
nice job as allways. thanks for sharing your videos
You bet
Those cnmg’s are awesome inserts hey !
Yes they are!
Came out well great job 👍 thanks for posting
Thank you! Cheers!
stage one:- Trashed
stage two:- Can of worms
stage three:- fresh from factory look :D
Nicely done :D
Pretty much 👍
Aqui no Brazil o ofício de torneiro mecânico ser vê.para deichar patrão rico ....o torneiro só ganha 2 por cento.do serviço realizado .sempre.trabalhei para os outros nunca tive.nada.e os.patroes.para os.quais trabalhei enriqueceram as minhas custas ..
FANTASTIC..
Beutifull work ! 😎👍
Ładne wiórki na zwolnionym tempie 😁
No już robię co mogę żeby się jakoś przebić do tego YouTuba😆
Sudden flashback of getting feed-rate or speed wrong on big items and swarf chips transform into blue-hot wires that loop everywhere and had to be pulled off with a big hook (After stopping it, obviously...)
Never try to remove stringy chips while its running, i saw a hook flying through the shop.
@@hansdorfer3371 i do it on my 1920 lathe with 1,5kw and with glooves on, i remove the swarf by hand while its running
@@yak-machining 1.5Kw is like nothing, this thing is going to be stalled by our smallest roughing insert.
@@hansdorfer3371 😂
Nice!!!!
Nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
Great job!
Thanks!
Appreciate
Este torneamento que está sendo realizado no vídeo custa 120 dólares o ganho do torneiro 40.reais.so.isto ????????.
what happened to that thing that it made it to your shop that way?
mill guy here, forgive my ignorance. Why do you not use a quick change toolpost? Are they less rigid, or do you just prefer the older style?
That's what came with the machine.
Czym było to napawane miętkawy materiał po wiurach słychać i dziwne że detalu nie zwichrowało
Na spawaniu to ja się nie bardzo znam. Co dokładne to poprawione najważniejszy był otwór ale na szczęście się skurczył tak że było z czeg poprawić. Środek nie spawali żeby było się od czego ustawić. Jak to mówią "stary a nowiusieńki". Pozdrawiam.
Nie wiem co ale czasem twoje komentarze nie pokazuje na youtube. Rurki dosyć dużej średnicy to raczej za proste to nie były. Bardziej mi chodziło o to żeby nie zrobić z nich kwadratu a utrzymać jakiś wymiar. Wesołych Świąt.
@@ChrisMaj odnośnie komentarzy tak to prawda nie są wyświetlane ,nikogo nie chejtuje ani nie obrażam piszę to na czym się znam i to co robię dzięki za odpowiedź 😁😁😁😁😁
@@michajasina7418 musiałeś coś gdzieś przeskrobać. Dostałem tylko na email i dlatego wiem że pisałeś.
@@ChrisMaj skoro tak uważasz to znaczy że coś takiego miało miejsce niewiem nic na ten temat 😁😁😁
Amazing, thanks
Glad you liked it!
I never realized how much a dial indicator looks like the Opeth logo. My yt suggestions are getting me all mixed up.
Опасно. Я бы не рискнул делать без поджима центром.
_Chris, did you lay the weld beads? Looks great!_
No ,I don't do welding.
G'day! Chris 'ere and welcome back to Clickspring on Steroids.... Today we're going to make the mainspring arbor for a new clock I'm building from this pile of welding rod. :)
Haha, that's a good one 👍
😂
Cadê.a refrigeração ainda mais.material.soldado.0leo soluvel.ja..
Should have used a center. Could have competed this is a fraction of the time!
nice welding
nice edits..
Haha, thanks. Filming and editing is not really my thing especially when you have to work and record at the same time.
I saw a setup just like that destroy a brand new CNC boring mill. Don't mistake luck for skill.. hold the part properly in the machine chuck. Very very very dangerous to use that wimpy 3 jaw chuck in the 4 jaw machine chuck. Chuck jaws do break.....
That 3-jaw chuck it is held by three inches. It would take a mega crash to rip that out.
@@ChrisMaj Yes and the torque that part can generate will snap those little jaws clean off. You can take the risk. It's not my shop. It's not my machine. But I would not recommend this practice. Like I said I saw a boring mill destroyed using chuck in chuck because the small chuck was just too light for the crash. The part was tossed and got pinned between the table and the overhead rail cracking the casting. The machine was finished... That's not speculation, just a fact of more than 30 years doing this stuff. I've seen some ugly stuff that "ooops" just don't cover.
Pozdrowienia z Polski 🖖!!!!
wzajemnie 👍
Czy pochodzisz z Polski?
@@pawelbukowczan1979 urodzony i wychowany.
Aktualnie pewnie herbata u babci Elżbiety?😉
@@pawelbukowczan1979 Aktualnie za dużą wodą.
直接用四爪卡盘夹持不行吗？ 我感觉这样有点危险啊啊😂😂
钳口长约50毫米，没关系。 除了我握住的孔以外，整个零件都被焊接了。 没有办法表明它，所以我不得不相信自定心卡盘。
Was the weld put on to recover lost material for for hardfacing?
The face was in really bad shape and the cone was worned out. Customer wanted to repair this part, so we did.
Is that a Poreba?? Big CNC lathe. The man has to know his "G" codes! Lol!
Looks alot like the head and trunion from a big paper roller...like a suction roll or dryer can. Same premise.
It's a Hankook PROTEC-9NC.
est-ce vraiment rentable de rajouter des couches de soudure (je sais pas combien de temps ça a pris pour faire ce rajout de matière avec de la soudure mais ce doit être énorme) et ensuite usiner la pièce comme tu le fais dans cette vidéo? Surtout que l'on peut voir un manque de matière sur le Ø intérieur de la pièce par manque de soudure. Du coup es-tu obligé de rajouter cette soudure et donc refaire ton montage pour ré-usiner?
Je pense que ça ne vaut vraiment pas le coup de faire comme tu le fais. C'est beaucoup prise de tête et risqué comme procédé de réparation.
ya built a scud missile????
Overlay welding
The material must be hard ..?
Blow molding pin
Hi men, what grade you choose for finish insert?
It depends on material that I'm working with. Most of the time it's Korloy NC3030, MITSUBISHI DNMG432MA UE611 or SECO CNMG432 MF2 TH1000.
Thank you men. I really appreciate your commentary, I will you have a nice day.
Почти как наш ДИП-400.
Top chips
0.55 большая точность
Good jop
Q gambeta!!
нихуясе какое биение.... даааа , нашим далеко до таких сверхтехнологий.....
Maestro!
всегда с таким вылетом детали очковал обрабатывать)) фобия какая та была
👍
i wouldnt trust that worn out nylon strap to hold anything
Ok now someone explain me what the hell is the huge part
8:15 have you ever seen this big coils of sheet metal? That's what they use to roll them.
New video
Insert WNMG are best!
Not in my book.
DCMT, beautiful finish
They all have their purpose. I like WNMG for general light turning, CNMG for heavy cuts, DCMT for finishing, CCMT for boring. WNMG are, in my books, the most cost effective general purpose insert. CNMG can do anything a WNMG can do and more, but they’re around 20% less cost effective for general light turning.
@@madaxe79 WNМG - has less cutting force and has six faces. WNMG for heavy cuts - best! S=104-125, f=0,25mm, ap=5mm. ( I'm Russian :))) )
@@user-vy2jr4kp4k same angle as CMNG, same cutting force, but CNMG has a longer edge to IC ratio so when you take really deep heavy cuts it doesn’t point load the little point between the two cutting points, and it doesn’t undercut the material as far, giving more even force. I generally used WNMG for any cut up to about 4mm DOC, anything over that I use CNMG. A trigon tip is around 10-20% more expensive, but you get 50% more cutting edges so they are certainly more cost effective, but I still prefer CNMG for heavy cutting. I use both, I like them both, they just have different purposes for me. If I’m turning long thin stuff, I will generally use a positive insert like a CCMT but if it’s nice and thick and solid, tear in with CNMG’s
👍👍👍👍👍
Nice work