REVIEW: Mr. Hobby Procon Boy PS290 0.5mm Trigger Airbrush
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- Опубликовано: 23 окт 2016
- Hey ho! Here is the first in hopefully a long line of product and kit reviews. This time, I'm taking a look at the Procon Boy 0.5mm PS290 Trigger Airbrush from Mr. Hobby/GSI Creos. Allthough I am reviewing the 0.5mm brush, other sizes in this range are available from 0.18mm to 0.5mm. And YES I am aware that I cept calling the caps "nozzles" by mistake - filming reviews is hard and it was too late to re-record that part ^_^
The airbrush was loaned by my good friends at www.japan-cool.co.uk. This review is impartial and I have not received payment nor product in return.
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All music used herein unless otherwise credited in the titles is by Foxx Wolf / dogsounds and used with permission - from me, because I composed, arranged and recorded it, and it is all original work ^_^
All other music and sound effects used provided by freesfx.co.uk www.freesfx.co.uk 
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I bought this airbrush for clear/primer/large coats, and it take about 28-35 psi for various primers, and just like you stated, the fan cap distributes the air down from the pressure of the main siphon of the paint, and that causes the pressure to go down on the gravity feed. For the price, this brush is awesome. Made in the same factory that makes Iwata, airbrushes and its really well made. I would recommend this for any serious model makers. The round cap helps to get into cracks and detailed areas before the fan goes on, and I can blast the rest without any worries about thin coverage in the recesses.
The price point on this is well under what I could get for a nice mini HPLV, which would be the absolute best choise in the way of large coverage, because both the fan air pressure and the siphon pressure are separately adjustable. (But for that, you will need to maintain least 38-50 psi.)
This helped me out A LOT. Going to Japan from Sweden on Wednesday and was thinking of looking for an airbrush for heavier stuff like primers and for larger pieces. This seems perfect! I have an Iwata Eclipse 0.35 that I love, but it's struggling with the primers and top coats, so a bigger needle it is. And this airbrush looks like a great alternative for me.
Love the channel, looking forward to see you finishing up the Char Zaku II! Got the Grunt version sitting in a box next to me and gonna get started on him during the summer.
Cool, thanks! I will get back to the Zaku soon, just taking a little break from it to avoid burning out. :)
No worries, I recently finished a very involved HG Sinanju build that I fully detailed and painted, so I'd imainge the same work on a PG would be tiresome after a bit.
Yep! It's always best to take a break when you get fatigued, rather than ploug on regardless, or your work will suffer.
This airbrush is a beast. I bought one after watch this video and it's amazing.
The wide spray cap needs at least 35psi
Great review Mr Foxx. As Brett stated not showing on there site...
Should be next week ^_^
I'd like to start off by saying thank you for all these great videos, super informative and rather entertaining too!
I'm just getting into model building and recently decided to give airbrushing a go. I purchased a decent brush (iwata eclipse) but I wanted to know if you had any suggestions for what brands of paints to steer clear of. Have you run across any brands that are just total crap and not worth the plastic they came in? Also, do you think I can get away with using thinned down artists acrylics from a tube if they're of a decent quality?
My pleasure! Thank you ^_^
I would steer away from artist's acrylics ^_^
IIRC correctly the Eclipse is solvent proof so you can use pretty much any paints through it. YOu might want to double check that first though. If it is, then you can use acrylics, enamels and lacquers through it no problem. I haven't come across any terrible paints so far, but keep in mind that Tamiya acrylics need about a 50:50 thinner to paint mix as they are quite thick, and Ammo by Mig paints MUST be built up slowly in thin misty coats on the model otherwise you'll get a lumpy,. orangepeel surface. Most other acrylics are fine.
Also keep in mind that many acrylic metallic paints contain metal flakes so if you are using a .35 or less needle, you might get blockage issues as you spray. Sometimes really thinning the paint helps, but you would have to build up the colour slowly in thin coats.
Lastly, ALWAYS wear a respirator that protects from particulates AND vapours (NOT just a dust mask) and if you are using lacquer paints like Alclad, Mr Metal Colour, or any other lacuer paints, make sure to work in a really well ventilated room as lacquers STINK.
Great review Thanks a lot.
Great review Foxx :D :D
Thanks Lynn!
Nice review my friend.
Thanks :)
4:43 best part
Thanks for the great reviews. I’m thinking of grabbing this gun for doing nice even candy on my models. I understand it’s a pig on air. Do you think my 23L/min tanked compressor will survive? Lol. thanks
Ha ha I'm sure it will be fine :)
I have the 0.3 version and while I have no problem with how it sprays, Gunze's trigger type airbrushes, like Iwata's, are very uncomfortable to hold on their own. Iwata makes plastic grips which they sell separately that slot on to their trigger types and they fit perfectly on these Gunze brushes as well.
Noted, interesting. My .35 trigger neo already has a grip. I didn't have any issues with this one I tested, but then again I haven't sat there for several hours using it non-stop ^_^
I do find using the middle finger and not the index finger feels on the trigger more comfortable and natural though, the index finger can rest on the side of the brush and keep it balanced.
The iwatas pistol grip cant be used with gsi creos models, the trigger cant move all way back, thats why gsi creos plastic pistol grip is slim compared with the iwata one
Great review! I got a sparmax trigger airbrush but I'm having issues that paint comes on much more suddenly than when I use a conventional dual action airbrush. It does not do a good job of fading in so to speak. Do these suffer the same way or can you get more precision? Thanks :)
Different brushes can have different sensitivities and some can be a bit hair-triggery. It could also be that you have the pressure too high (15-20psi is fine for most paints) OR it could be a big bore brush (as in a large .5 nozzle which are intended for fast coverage of large areas). Or it may actually be a single-action brush where there is no air without paint - just pull the trigger and everything comes out at the same time. A good dual action trigger brush will have a detent point where before that all you get is air, and then after that you get a tiny amount of paint which increases as you pull the trigger back further. THIS brush in the video was .5 nozzle so has good sensitiviy but is designed to blap out a lot of paint anyway and is more suited for painting big things and priming. If you are looking for more precision and flow control and less "paint massive things quickly" then I can strongly recommend the Neo for Iwata .35 brush - it is my daily workhorse :)
@@gurufoxx Thanks for the response. To clarify, it was a .35 Sparmax dual action trigger airbrush, very similar in appearance to the Procon Boy. I've had cheap £20 airbrushes from ebay which have performed with more sensitivity than the Sparmax. I've tried varying pressures and consistency of paint but still, there is a point in the trigger where the paint just goes 'on!' With other airbrushes I can ramp up the paint so slowly that you can get your bearings on the surface with a barely perceptible line and then slowly fade the line in. So for me, the Sparmax doesn't perform well in this respect. Should I expect this from a .35 trigger action airbrush, or have I been unlucky?
Lastly, the Neo - is that the standard or the trigger action brush? Andddd....... are there any trigger actions you have used which perform this fairly simple task excellently?
Thanks again for your reply, very kind of you to take the time to respond.
@@chrisjhart I;m not sure then if it is that brush that is a bit pants or if you have just somehow gotten a shonky one (I have not used that brush myself so I have no way to say for sure). SPARMAX are manufactured by the same company that makes Iwata brushes so are usually pretty good budget brushes.
The Neo I use is the TRN-1 trigger brush (although it is available as a regular button brush as well). I use it all the time so I can say yes, it will perform as you expect, very well - I love mine :)The Procon Boy also worked well but I only tried the .5 Procon so I have no idea about the smaller size brush or how that would perform.
This is an older video so i may not get a response but would a .3 or .5 airbrush be better for painting master grade gunpla. I mainly plan on using an air brush for preshading and general painting with occasional use of metallics
A .5 nozzle is really for covering large areas quickly, and most useful for priming or painting larger objects - it's not really designed for small jobs or detail work. For painting fine lines (such as pre-shading) or just painting many small parts, a .3 or .35 would be more practical as it will give you a nice balance between fine work and large area coverage without using a tone of paint. If a .5 is a hosepipe, a .3 or .35 is more like a tap (faucet). I have both, but tend to only use the .5 for priming and painting big-ass things. If you can only have one, and are mostly building gunpla, then I would say go for the .3 or .35, you will be fine :)
And I ALWAYS answer comments ;)
@@gurufoxx thank you! I really appreciate the reply. Im new to airbrushing and wasnt really sure which size to get.
@@thatoneasshat No worries! make sure to join the Modelmaker's Boomhut, there's an endless supply of advice and guidance in there too: facebook.com/groups/modelboomhut
I wanted to buy an ab and a mini gun (1.2mm & 0.5mm) for custom painting motorcycles and cars. Already have a nice Devilbiss spray gun but was looking for something smaller for the custom striping etc. After seeing this review I'm confident this ab would be perfect for the custom painting and also could do some other ab painting. I'm going to use acrylic and try Plasti dip in this ab as I normally use this for cars and motorcycles. Do you know if they use PTFE seals for solvent base paint?
I am afraid I have no idea as this was a few years ago so I can't remember much about it, and I did not get to keep the airbrush, sadly ^_^ However most manufacturers will state if a brush is solvent safe or not, so it's worth checking the relevant manufacturer websites.
Modelmaking Guru thanks for the reply. May I ask why you didn’t keep the ab? I’m really doubting if I’m gonna to buy this ab or a mini spray gun with a 0.5mm nozzle
@@PascalCrypto The retailer sent it to me and had asked me to do some test with it to check some things, after which it went back to them (I did not ask to borrow it). I would say unless you are in the habit on painting VERY big models, a spray gun is not really relevant for typical modelling needs. Even 0.5 airbrushes are really not suited to small or detailed paint jobs; they are designed for covering big things, fast. I have a .5 Revolution that I very rarely use because I don't often paint huge models :)
@@gurufoxx okay. I'm not going to do any modelling, only custom paint jobs. I ordered the infinity cr plus 0.2mm and 0.4mm today at first. So I will see how much I can get done with the 0.4mm before buying a 0.5mm ab or mini gun.
What brand of primer are you using?
I used Ultimate Modelling Products Ultimate Primer, unthinned ^_^
Hi would a compressor with a tank on do the job many thanks
Yep, any compressor will be fine, and a tank-fed compressor is even better as the tank helps give a steady air flow :)
Modelmaking Guru many thanks bought it yesterday from emodels and it works great
^_^
I would add that if your going to use a normal shop compressor be sure to get a moisture trap adapter. You can get them in line or add them to the compressor itself.
^^^ what he said :)
So you can't switch out the needle and use a .02 just .05?
I am afraid I don't remember the specifics about this brush as it was not mine and only loaned, but airbrushes always need the the relevant nozzle for a needle, i.e. a .5 needle would only work with a .5 nozzle, and a .2 needle would only work in a .2 nozzle, and so on. Usually on many brushes you can just swap out the nozzle and needle for different sizes but it is not always the case (for example, airbrushes designed to work best a low pressures will be fine with .2 or .35 nozzle/needles, but might struggle with a .5 as they can't generate the pressure needed).
@@gurufoxx thank you
Inbound along with a Tooty from Santa!👍🏻😎
Quick question what pressure should we use?
That varies constantly depending on what you are spraying, how much it is thinned, how long your hose, your specific compressor and more. YOu will need to experiment a little based on what you want to spray, but a ROUGH guide is 15-20psi for most regular paints, 12-15psi for thin lacquers and enamels, 25-30psi for thick primers. But again, it depends 100% on your specific setup and may vary wildly.
Hi Abimanyu Boentatan. I’m using a 0.4 needle in my brush & I have found spraying at 35-40 psi works well with primer & for my normal paint which is already thinned 20 psi works well.
@@craigwise1041 Thanks Craig!
Very good review, however a major point is the air supply required when using the fan pattern, Fan pattern requires minimum 35 L/Min (1.2cfm) airflow, most hobby compressors won't run that high. Check your output before purchasing .
Absolutely correct, which is what gave me issues, and it does mention it in the instructions :)
pete howard hi Pete. I'm not sure what this means and how can I check my compressor? Thanks
I've had a PS290 for a while now, spraying UMP/Stynylrez primer, not thinned, at 25-35 psi fed by a SparMax compressor rated at 0.81 cfm (23 lpm) up to 60psi with no problems whatsoever. If you are using thinned paints then the pressure could certainly be a heck of a lot lower and you'll still get a great spray pattern.
Man... I gotta say... I really wish you gave us an apples to apples comparison....
You did great with showing the conical cap on plain white paper...
But then you demo'd the fan cap on a model....
WHAT?! There's no way of practically comparing the characteristics of the two caps...
I really would have liked to have seen the fan cap on the white paper, then you would easily be able to see the spray pattern and difference in coverage properties...
Anyway... next time?
Thanks for making this content anyway 👌
Have you tried the ps-770?
I have not, this is the only brush from that range I have used.
Modelmaking Guru I see thanks man :)
@@gurufoxx I've used the .2 and it's wonderful
Funny that i can't find it on their website though...
They will have it in stock from next week ^_^
Aha! Sneaky buggers lol
Why doesn’t Hobby Boss just include English Bi-lingual translation like everyone else selling to English speaking countries.
Most likely they have some products that are not intended for export outside of Japan and so there is no reason to translate them (or there are separate Japan-only and export versions) - and these only end up in English-speaking markets through various third party exporters/importers. That's my guess anyway.
They want you tro send it back? aww man. I am a tech reviewer and companies asking for items back is an unwritten no no, that's our "pay"
Ha ha, from these guys whom I know anyway I don't mind, it gives me something to film which = RUclips traffic and stuff for you guys to watch. Besides, there are other things planned with Japan Cool ^_^
If it was A. N. Other company I normally had no dealings with then yeah, I would want something.
I woudl love a brush like this with a .2 or .15
There is a (I THINK) .18 and a.3 also ^_^
They should have them in stock next week.
Technical reviewer? Let’s be real, more like paid advertiser.
For this kind of money I think they should at least translate the manual, Come on
It may be that the retailer got hold of stock that was not intended for export.