I would like to add a suggestion for a more accurate valve adjustment on this 4 wheeler. Being that the both valves are actuated by a single, forked rocker arm, you should use a feeler gauge under both sides at the same time. That will keep the rocker arm from "rocking" from one side to the other, making the valve that you just adjusted change clearance. You should at least go back and check the first one that you adjusted to confirm that the first side did not change. I am referring to both intakes OR exhaust at the same time. Very good video. Precise and right to the point. Keep up the good work. You are doing the 4 wheeler community a good service. Regards
I'm rebuilding top end for the first time. I adjusted all the valves like book said. Then decided to turn crank around and test to see if it took. Sure enough it didn't. Turned to tf again and all still to tight. I like the advice on doing intake and equast at same time to keep from rocking.... But I'd like to know if the valve goes up and down twice before piston does one rev? Also based off that would the valve have to be in the highest position and on correct tf tr for cylinder working on? I know this is long shot since an old post, but hope someone can clarify a little more to me. 🥺
pro tip, when adjusting leave lock nut just loose enough to be able to turn adjustment screw , this will make it much easier to maintain the clearance , if you completely loosen the nut the adjustment will change when you lock it down requiring several attempts.
I hope I just need a valve adjustment and not replaced rings. Will try this while waiting for a compression tester, Dad's old one won't fit down these narrow plug holes.
Difficulty rating 7.5 out of 10 (the feeler gage was a bit hard to get in the tight spots). Warning the repair manual doesn't even explain the fact that the camshaft rotates 180 degrees for every turn of the cranshaft (fundamental principle of any 4-stroke). So, the engine is only on TDC firing at every other turn of the crank. The exhaust valves are not closed all the way at TDC intake. This is why you must be sure the engine is on TDC firing, not TDC intake. If you adjust the valves when the engine is not on TDC firing, your valve adjustment will be way off and it will not run well and wear out your valvetrain. -You need a feeler gage, flathead screwdriver, and a box end metric wrench (10mm). Check when engine is at room temperature (68F of so) otherwise the different expansion coefficients of the different types of metal involved will completely invalidate your valve adjustment. 1. Remove front plastic (includes top rack), battery case, right water pipe bolt if necessary, valve adjustment caps, recoil starter (or alternator cover, in the case of the 2008 BF). 2. Remove timing inspection plug (slotted plug, left side of crankcase near recoil starter). It may be too tight for a big screwdriver. If it is too tight, you might try a vise grip on the outside edge of it. 3. Turn crank counter-clockwise using a wrench on the crank bolt (under the recoil). Turn it counterclockwise until the TF mark shows up (the top part of the T lines up with a notch in the hole). Note that if the cylinder is at the end of the compression stroke all four valves will be closed (you can feel clearance in the rocker when the valves are closed). If the engine is at the end of the exhaust stroke, some of the valves will be partway open (the exhaust I think), and you need to turn it counterclockwise one full revolution until it is at the end of the compression stroke (back to same mark). 4. Check and if needed adjust all four valves on front cylinder to: Intake 0.10-0.15mm (.0039"-.0059") cold Exhaust 0.20-0.25mm (.0079"-.0098") cold * To adjust a valve, loosen locknut, turn center screw left for looser, right for tigher. Proper clearance is achieved when feeler gage can slide between valve and adjusting screw with slight resistance (not loose, not tight). I like to use a go-nogo gage made for motorcycles. 5. Turn the crank counter-clockwise until the TR lines up in the timing hole and check/adjust the valves in rear cylinder. Make sure all valves are closed, because this it is 270 degrees CCW from TF. If some of the rear cylinder's valves are open (rocker is pushing them open), you may have turned the crank an extra 360 degrees after you adjusted the front valves or maybe you didn't do the front cylinder on TDC firing. 6. Put stuff back together
hi..I have 2- 650 Kawasaki paraie 4x4..just bought them so I figured I'll do oil change spark plug and air filter and now it pops from carb..is it because I need to adjust the valve clearance???
My book says Valve Clearance (when cold) Exhaust: 0.20 ∼ 0.25 mm (0.0079 ∼ 0.0098 in.) Inlet: 0.10 ∼ 0.15 mm (0.0039 ∼ 0.0059 in.) your valves are super tight 😳😳😳😳 well ima try it on mine and lean toward the tight side
Love your videos,very informative. I have a 2002 Kawasaki prairie 650 runs good and idols but it won’t decelerate above 15mph....any ideas would be appreciated, thanks
Gus, this "could" be your issue. It's a good place to start as it will only cost you some time to check. Kaw's make incredible power, but are notorious for valves tightening up.
I would like to add a suggestion for a more accurate valve adjustment on this 4 wheeler. Being that the both valves are actuated by a single, forked rocker arm, you should use a feeler gauge under both sides at the same time. That will keep the rocker arm from "rocking" from one side to the other, making the valve that you just adjusted change clearance. You should at least go back and check the first one that you adjusted to confirm that the first side did not change. I am referring to both intakes OR exhaust at the same time. Very good video. Precise and right to the point. Keep up the good work. You are doing the 4 wheeler community a good service. Regards
Thanks for your input on the adjustment, appreciate the comment!
@@atvdirt1 I didn't check to see who posted this video. I should have known who it was when I saw how good it was.
I'm rebuilding top end for the first time. I adjusted all the valves like book said. Then decided to turn crank around and test to see if it took. Sure enough it didn't. Turned to tf again and all still to tight. I like the advice on doing intake and equast at same time to keep from rocking.... But I'd like to know if the valve goes up and down twice before piston does one rev? Also based off that would the valve have to be in the highest position and on correct tf tr for cylinder working on? I know this is long shot since an old post, but hope someone can clarify a little more to me. 🥺
Thank you for this , I just did mine for the first time, what a pain in the ass to get to ! Thanks again for this video
Great video dude! You saved my quad from the scrap yard. She runs great now! Thanks
Awesome! Thanks for the comment and many more miles on your Brute Force!
pro tip, when adjusting leave lock nut just loose enough to be able to turn adjustment screw , this will make it much easier to maintain the clearance , if you completely loosen the nut the adjustment will change when you lock it down requiring several attempts.
Thanks for the video, this is on my weekend to-do list, along with the carb cleaning.
Thanks for the comment! Subscribe to our channel for more tech tips and reviews. ruclips.net/channel/UCArRwA4SAnCqF6NsuPayhEA
I hope I just need a valve adjustment and not replaced rings. Will try this while waiting for a compression tester, Dad's old one won't fit down these narrow plug holes.
It also works on arctic cats like mine that has the kawasaki 650cc V-twin motor
Fantastic video!! Great walk through and you're a great communicator. Thank you.
Dennis JJ thanks for your comments!
WRONG he teaches WRONG way to do it. doesnt use a tool to hold the jack screw while tightens jack nut.
I am going to start doing it today but would this work for my 2007 kawasaki brute force 650cc v-twin
Is it worth having a twin, well-engineered but there are so many parts?
Can you upload that 5 step process? The link in the description does not work
Difficulty rating 7.5 out of 10 (the feeler gage was a bit hard to get in the tight spots).
Warning the repair manual doesn't even explain the fact that the
camshaft rotates 180 degrees for every turn of the cranshaft
(fundamental principle of any 4-stroke). So, the engine is only on TDC
firing at every other turn of the crank. The exhaust valves are not
closed all the way at TDC intake. This is why you must be sure the
engine is on TDC firing, not TDC intake. If you adjust the valves when
the engine is not on TDC firing, your valve adjustment will be way off
and it will not run well and wear out your valvetrain.
-You need a feeler gage, flathead screwdriver, and a box end metric
wrench (10mm). Check when engine is at room temperature (68F of so)
otherwise the different expansion coefficients of the different types of
metal involved will completely invalidate your valve adjustment.
1. Remove front plastic (includes top rack), battery case, right water
pipe bolt if necessary, valve adjustment caps, recoil starter (or
alternator cover, in the case of the 2008 BF).
2. Remove timing inspection plug (slotted plug, left side of crankcase
near recoil starter). It may be too tight for a big screwdriver. If it
is too tight, you might try a vise grip on the outside edge of it.
3. Turn crank counter-clockwise using a wrench on the crank bolt (under
the recoil). Turn it counterclockwise until the TF mark shows up (the
top part of the T lines up with a notch in the hole). Note that if the
cylinder is at the end of the compression stroke all four valves will be
closed (you can feel clearance in the rocker when the valves are
closed). If the engine is at the end of the exhaust stroke, some of the
valves will be partway open (the exhaust I think), and you need to turn
it counterclockwise one full revolution until it is at the end of the
compression stroke (back to same mark).
4. Check and if needed adjust all four valves on front cylinder to:
Intake 0.10-0.15mm (.0039"-.0059") cold
Exhaust 0.20-0.25mm (.0079"-.0098") cold
* To adjust a valve, loosen locknut, turn center screw left for looser,
right for tigher. Proper clearance is achieved when feeler gage can
slide between valve and adjusting screw with slight resistance (not
loose, not tight). I like to use a go-nogo gage made for motorcycles.
5. Turn the crank counter-clockwise until the TR lines up in the timing
hole and check/adjust the valves in rear cylinder. Make sure all valves
are closed, because this it is 270 degrees CCW from TF. If some of the
rear cylinder's valves are open (rocker is pushing them open), you may
have turned the crank an extra 360 degrees after you adjusted the front
valves or maybe you didn't do the front cylinder on TDC firing.
6. Put stuff back together
Thank you
Everything ATV-UTV-Reviews j
Great video!!! Was very helpful
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment!
hi..I have 2- 650 Kawasaki paraie 4x4..just bought them so I figured I'll do oil change spark plug and air filter and now it pops from carb..is it because I need to adjust the valve clearance???
would you have any idea what size the kawasaki kvf 750i 2008 adjustment is made of ?? Exaus and intake? Please help me . I have problems with backfire
What year model is the 4 wheeler your working on, tks
My book says
Valve Clearance (when cold)
Exhaust: 0.20 ∼ 0.25 mm (0.0079 ∼ 0.0098 in.)
Inlet: 0.10 ∼ 0.15 mm (0.0039 ∼ 0.0059 in.) your valves are super tight 😳😳😳😳 well ima try it on mine and lean toward the tight side
Hello. 0.05 and 0.08 is in inch or in metric?
Anyone know where the Serial number/VIN # is located on the Brute Force 750 (2005-2007)?
My 750 has a small intermittent backfire. Could this be the issue?
Yes
Love your videos,very informative. I have a 2002 Kawasaki prairie 650 runs good and idols but it won’t decelerate above 15mph....any ideas would be appreciated, thanks
Sorry about the late response, did you find out the issue?
@@atvdirt1 No worries life is hectic, it was the throttle cable and carb.adjustment....thanks. N.J.
Is it the same adjustment for a 750
The process should be the same, although check the valve clearance settings for the 750, not sure if they are the same. Thanks for the comment!
have an 06 Prarie 360 that will foul out a plug in an hour of riding. been doing this for 2 years. could this be the problem?
Michael, has your Prarie been jetted, any other mods or completely stock?
Too tight or No Valve clearence gives that symptom. Could also be other things. Check your compression.
even on the hottest days my 650 has to warm up atleast 20 mins before i even touch the throttle or it dies. any info on why?
Is the 650 set on ON or RES fuel tank setting?
@@atvdirt1 on.
I must have done it wrong, it wasn’t ticking before but now it’s ticking really
Bad
I have same problem
@@speakable5733 i ended up re doing it and now it ticks just not as bad. some ticking is normal.
I mean a small backfire through the air cleaner.
Gus, this "could" be your issue. It's a good place to start as it will only cost you some time to check. Kaw's make incredible power, but are notorious for valves tightening up.
+Everything ATV-UTV-Reviews there is none further than a mechanic than I but a great vid to follow. Thank you.
im sure ya found out. and i bet was the accel pump in the carb.
Me interesa el tiempo
L
My book says .20exhast .10 intake