Kawasaki Brute force motor reassembly
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- This is the reassembly video of a Kawasaki brute force. This bike has a 650cc bottom end and 750 cc cylinders so this video is the same process for both the 650 and 750 size IRS bikes. The motor is also the same as the solid rear axle bikes with exception to the way the coolant fittings are attached. Links for the parts used are below. #ad
Engine Removal video
• Kawasaki Brute force 6...
Engine Disassembly Video
• Kawasaki Brute Force m...
Crankshaft (For 750CC)
alnk.to/dLe56XD
Rods (Need 2)
alnk.to/3ndneQ7
Rod bearings (need 4)
alnk.to/4BCG6yK
Intermediate Cam Chain
alnk.to/clU1guc
Overhead cam chain (Need 2)
alnk.to/7qgNNF9
Left Crank bushing
ebay.us/ZFecIK
Base Gaskets (Need 2)
alnk.to/hsrZIdC
Shifter link Gasket
alnk.to/60WJXlV
Water pump Gasket
alnk.to/biptnRp
Stator cover gasket
alnk.to/3TXEbxG
Head Gaskets
alnk.to/3J2TcGx
Valve Spring Compressor
alnk.to/biptnRp
Valve Seals (Need 8)
alnk.to/7M6jLwK
Pistons (Need 2)
alnk.to/4qHV7T4
Piston Pins (Need 2)
alnk.to/fwnEViO
Piston Pin Clips (Need 4)
alnk.to/9ml8ALJ
Piston Rings (Need 2)
alnk.to/gVHILOT
This guy right here is a legend this video is life saving thank you so much for taking the time to do this video and help so many people awesome work well done
Thank you so much for posting these videos . You have helped me build a few motors already, don’t know what I would do without ya! Thanks 🙏
I'm in the middle of this project right now, waiting for a new crank after a spun rod bearing. I've got the manual but watching you do it is SO HELPFUL!!! Thanks for the video and for explaining everything you're doing. Cheers from Vancouver Island BC Canada 👍👍🍻
Thanks and thanks for watching. I hope my southern accent isn't a struggle for you or maybe it's entertaining...lol
I cant thank you enough. I would have never been able to rebuild this engine without you.....
Glad I could help.
I got mine rebuilt it wasn't the trans. Still haven't honestly figured out why it locked up on my wheels. Already checked back wet brake. Haven't checked the front diff. But motor runs great thanks to you man!
Can't get mine to crank. Not sure if I'm a 180 degrees out. I'm at a loss for knowing what I did wrong. It backfired when I tried to crank it but its in time from what I can tell
Thanks for making this video. I'm currently rebuilding a Kawasaki tyrex 750 and this video has been a life saver.
Thank you. I just finished my 2011 750 thanks to your video 📹.
Thanks for watching.
A little aid I have discovered for installing stator covers or any cover really (engine cases)is using a couple pieces of 6mm threaded rod about 6-8 inches long and threading them into a couple of bolt holes by hand , this eliminates any alignment or gasket issues as you slide them on. Long bolts with the heads cut off work even better because of their smooth shank , you can make some with various lengths to suite any job .
Thanks for that info. I haven't thought about that but it would work great. I'll cut some bolts off tonight.
Thanks for the info. I'm planning a big bore kit this winter. This sure helped me out.
Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to put this video together.
You are amazing! This has helped so much!
Thanks for the video. Really useful saved myself a few quid
I never leave comments but,... you are the man bro!! you did that shit... Thanks for the video!!
Thanks man and thanks for watching!
@@FourwheelerDoctor I just bought a 2020 brute with a motor was told is good started but only went up to about 15MPH. After watching your videos I saw that the heads and cams are bad, with that said what year cams can i use is it 2015 and up? it gets better,.. Flywheel chewed up my stator and there are pieces of magnets all in the motor.,, What do you think would be the cause of that and what should I look for? on top of that it also has a spun bearing. I ordered new rods and the yellow snap in bearing like you use in this video. Im just about to split the case. So far I have ordered new rings, Stator, flywheel, new heads used 2015s,... Do I need sent these to a shop to be worked?, 3 chains, complete engine gaskets and seals kit and inner rotor pump it was split. with Said,.. What should I look for from here? Thanks for your time and the most educational videos on the tube!!!!
Great video awesome work 👍
Good video. If you put the crank in the freezer and heat the bearing with a heat gun, she will drop right in. :)
Solid Video. Appreciate your content.
I took a 04 motor out, and because of circumstances iys been mouths and forgot where the ground cable grounds to the engine, on this motor was it in the side if the head or somewhere else if you can remember , thanks for the vid and your time, God bless
It bolts to the right side of the rear cylinder.
I need your knowledge on my 750 bf. Im in the rebuild and i got a new crank. I put the cases together but the crank is really hard to turn. Is it binded somewhere?
Sounds like it may not be pressed all the way into the right crankcase bearing.
What will happen if I forgot to put 1 of the 2 dowels in for the cylinder?
Thank you for making your videos. I am in the reassembly phase of my 2012 Kawasaki Teryx 750 FI and completely opened up the engine case, replaced the crank(spun bearing) with a new Kawasaki crank, rods, bearings, totally washed/cleaned the cases, I put the new crank in using the freeze heat method, installed the trans, same method. When I put the cases back together it took quite a but of effort to get the left side case onto the crank. Once torqued down the crank will not move. I once again split them but am unsure what to do......HELP! I feel as though the left crank bushing(original) still looked good but the tolerance between that and the new crand are way too tight. Thoughts and thank you.
Hello , I was wondering what was your reasoning behind the copper seal on the head gasket , what exactly is it ??? Can't say I have seen this before,is the head gasket new ? Thanks
Disculpa me podrias ayudar a decir cuantas libras van los tornillos de la cabeza del cilindro
Big help 👍🏻
Thanks!!
Engine/trans only holds around 2 qtrs of oil, but You run a little low and ride it like we do (Wheelies & WFO) & starve the oil pump and spin a rod bearing. I Built a oil tank with 2x more qrts oil capacity problem eliminated. FYI: Can-Am uses 1.9 qrts oil but has a separate trans&oil so it lives.
It probably helps keep the oil temp down too which is also a problem with theses bike. How did you plumb the extra tank in? Oil filter adapter?
Thx u for making vid
I have a 09 650 sra im needing to know what hose hooks to the front intake? the back one is the vaccum for the fuel pump. Thanks for any help.
What will happen if u forget to put the black hose back in
After assembly all components i when ahead and install the motor on the bike and shift shaft is stock on a gear,I can’t get it loose.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Great Video
Great video for us DIY engine rebuilders on a budget, but where do you get your parts? Kawasaki takes forever to order.
Thanks man that's what I was shooting for. I'm on the east coast so I order my parts from a dealership called mrcycles.com. They have good prices and can get my parts in usually less than a week. I also use motosport.com which can also get me parts quick if they have the parts in stock.
U have to calibrate valve when u opem the engine or u not have to do it?(
are these the original pistons that come with the brute force or are they aftermarket, how many mph or hours has the engine run? Very good video👍👌
I am watching your video and learning a lot. Currently repairing a 650 V2 in a 2005 Arctic cat. Long story but if a rear cam sprocket is in the wrong position, how is it put back in proper position. Without removing front head and flywheel cover.
You should be able to rotate the cam by removing the cam cover and the tensioner and the chain have enough slack to get the cam to rotate.
@@FourwheelerDoctorI have been trying to get the rear in sync, last question I hope, if I am sure of the cam position in the front, then how do I align rear, been setting flywheel at tdc R and putting cam arrow up?
@@FourwheelerDoctor went ahead and removed front head and got arrow up for tdc F and arrow up for rear at tdc R. This my first on a motorcycle engine, if it works I got a good deal at 600 bucks.
@@pauli8413 just to make sure they shouldn't be put both pointing upwards at the same time. There should be a mark for the front cylinder that you set to top dead center on the flywheel then you rotate the flywheel to the mark for the rear cylinder where it would be set to top
Is it normal that my crankshaft is really hard to spin? so i could get the timing correctly
Thanks for tha help man😊
Thanks and thanks for watching
@@FourwheelerDoctor you remind me of myself man. Hey… and our shops resemble each other lol
Hey doc, i have 2 of these kawasaki 750 motors that need some love and I was gonna take care of it myself but I'm thinking bout sending them to you, if possible, please Holler back
How you doing , great I hope ! Question, I have a 2005 artic cat with the Kawasaki engine... I get spark, fuel, and compression but no start just one tiny carb back fire ! I threw the timing chains per your video instructions & adjusted valves and all! Any idea or pointers that you could bless me with?
Check to make sure your timing is correct as well as your valve lash. If I had to guess I would say timing was the culprit.
Hi, would you worry about cutting the valve seats or are you confident the .045 as stock is fine?
Thanks for the video!
I very seldom have problems on the bikes with the valve seats. Most of the time it's the actual valves that are worn out.
@@FourwheelerDoctor thank you man. Il continue with the rebuild
What's the part number for the bearing after the flywheel and before the stator cover
92045-1403
Hello, good evening, I follow you in all your videos. You know, I have a problem with a Brute Force 750 from 2006. It leaks oil through the vent. I've poured everything into it and it keeps doing it. What could it be? I'm from Mexico
if everyone did how to videos like you!!! im going to attempt my first rebuild of top end for now. question about the head gasket. in video i think you said you put copper sealer on then the metal gasket. did you put sealant on both sides of the gasket?
Thanks for watching. Yes I put a light coat on both sides.
do you recommend putting that on the cylinder gasket too?
Should the crank turn freely by hand? I just assembled both halves and had my crank professionaly rebuilt but now with the 2 halves assembled i can only turn the crank with the crank bolt and a ratchet. It does turn easily with the ratchet with no bimding in any spot is this how it should be?
More than likely your crank is not pressed all the way into the right crank bearing. Not sure if you can put it back into the press at this point or I have taken a handle of the sledgehammer and hit the end of the crank with the handle to move it ever so slightly and make it spin freely.
Thanks I was thinking after I was done for the day. I'll take a look in a few hrs after work. Thanks for the fast response!
Do you usually charged to rebuild a motor on a 750?
I have an 06 complete rebuild runs strong but still. Getting valve noise back cylinder I did put high compressor pistons in it valves are beating me
Are you sure you are adjusting them with the rear cylinder at TDC?
How would I go about getting you to fix one of my 750 engines
My son has a 2013 Kawasaki Teryx 750 with blown motor. Would a Kawasaki quad brute force 650 engine transplant into it?
so thats a new factory crank? Im going to have my crank turned at the shop and will have to figure out what size bearings to use.
Yes it is a factory crank.
When I pulled the transmission shafts out everything came out pretty easy. The bearing on the secondary clutch shaft came out of the case with the shaft. Now that I'm reassembling it, the bearing and shaft will not go back into the case. Any clue why it's so much more difficult to install than to pull out?
I've tried to hammer the shaft back in, but it barely goes, and it doesn't want to stay square with the case, and it also feels more difficult to spin the shaft in the bearing.
I'm thinking I need to pull the bearing off the shaft first and install it in the case, then drive the shaft into the bearing to prevent damaging the bearing, but was wondering if you had any better ideas first.
Where you from, you sound like your from my neck of the woods, NC, great video, hate we missed those few parts from the recorder but for most part excellent video, God bless
Is there a reason you don’t use loctite on rod bolts?
I have never had one of the nuts back off and the manual doesn't call for it. On these motors it seems like it'll spin a rod bearing again before any bolts every back out.
How did you press the crank in without a press? I got it in a majority of the way with the rubber mallet and it won’t go in past this point - any help with this or ideas?
Mine with the t mark and the f as a notch in the case hole around a 1/8th to 3/16 and the mark on the flywheel is 2 marks about a 1/4 apart. I tried to space it even. Is that right or should the mark at the F line up with the case gap. Should the F mark be in the center of that gap on the case hole, or should I center, I wish the camera wouldve focused and I could see how you positioned the flywheel marks comepared to the gap on the case hole. Tks for your time
The line above the t mark is the one you need to line up with the nitch in the case. The notch is usually in the center of the hole. If you are rotating it in the correct direction you will come to the two marks close together first, the the f mark ( when it fires) then the t mark ( when it's at top dead center)
That’s good man
By how much would cost to do one of this to rebuild??? On a 2012 teryx mule , remove rebuild and install , parts and labor
I have a question for you. I am getting water pouting in my oil and I am wondering is something broke in the water passage way or is it the head gaskets?
In my experience the only ones I've ever had get water in the oil was from a cracked head or the seals going bad in the water pump
I hope I can get a response to my question, I have a 05 brute force 750, the question is have you ever seen a flywheel that when you look down in the timing hole the edge of the flywheel is so far back you can't see, plus it's not covering the stator, if so what is that of not what do you think the reason might be, thanks for your time, Mike
I've never seen that happen before. The flywheel is somewhat of a press fit on the end of the crankshaft and it will only go so deep in there. I don't have a clue what may be wrong with yours.
@@FourwheelerDoctor I watched the part of the vid when you was getting ready to time up the 750 reassemble video and my fly wheel looks the same, you can see the end of the stator as well just like mine, my worry is because I don't have any fire at the plug and was hoping that's what it was but I guess not know, going to have to look somewhere else, cause it fired when it came in, but new rings and cleaned the heads up and no fire, weird, didn't touch any wires, there is one thing, at the back of the plastic cdi holder and all the relays, there's a little square relay that's gray, maybe a 1/2 inch thick with 2 wire, someone said it might be a roll over relay or something, you hear about a roll over relay, I might have to reset, thanks for your time, Mike
Hello , have you ever replaced the left side crankshaft bushing in the the case? I have a teryx 800 I'm rebuilding and notice the crank has some play up and down were it rides in that bushing. Kawasaki wants you to replace both cases. Thanks
Yes I have replaced a few of them. If you have any play it will be best to replace it. you can press the old one out and press a new one in. Only thing is like you said you can't buy one from kawasak separatei. There are some listed on eBay and I have used and had success with before. But you do not have to replace the cases.
@@FourwheelerDoctor thanks for the reply. I have one I purchased of ebay I think ill press it in give it a try
would you have any idea what size the kawasaki kvf 750injection 2008(700 km) adjustment is made of ?? Please help me !i heave problems with backfire...
I would check the valve clearance first. These bikes normally not have man problems with the injection but I have cleaned the injectors on a few.
Have you ever seen a brute lose power but not be blown up is there anything outside the engine that would go bad and make you think that the motor was blown like lose of fuel pressure I know you said they spin rod barring and won't make noise
Make sure it is getting spark to both spark plugs. I assume it's a carb bike so pull the off and clean the carburetor. Before you take them off look down in the carbs with it running and make sure both slides move when you give it some throttle.
Thanks so much ill let you know how it goes
And yes it has a carb
Have a quick question but after the rebuild trying to get it to start its turning over very slowly and has a brand new battery. Any thoughts on what to check?
Timings off
what area you located in?
2009 650 rebuild. Putting the cases back together and after I torquing the bolts I want to turn the crankshaft but it is impossible to turn. I have the rods lined up and nothing hitting them. What could be the problem?
Did you put a new crank in it?
More than likely the cranks not pressed deep enough into the bearing on the right side sometimes if you tap the end of the left side of it with a rubber hammer it will seat it deep enough and allow it to rotate
Yes sir I did put a new crank. I did what you said and it turns easier with a wrench but there is no way you can turn this by hand. The more I think about it if you have to tap it in with a mallet then it’s going to be pretty snug. Appreciate your videos couldn’t have got this far without it.
Four wheeler Dr all I can say is…..YOU ARE THE MAN!!! I took the bolts out of the case and to see if it would turn and it was free as a bird. Put the number 1 bolt in and just snugged it down and it was hard to turn again. So I took a piece of 2x4 wood and just a firm tap with a hammer against the wood and that was it! Torqued all the bolts down and she is smooth as butter! Thank you again. Ever need any cerakote or powder coat look me up. Outlaws custom coatings. Westminster SC
I lost one of my washers for the head bolts. The ones inside the head that take 14mm socket. Do you think I could use a washer same size from autoparts store in its place or would you wait and get oem washer from atv dealer? I was not sure if not being blued it would cause a problem
You can use any washer of similar size. I think the reason in the washer is to keep the acorn nut from digging into the aluminum as it is tightened so any washer will serve this purpose.
@@FourwheelerDoctor Thank you again. And again great videos. I'm following your video putting my motor back together after a full rebuild. Going to pick up a washer today and continue putting it back together.
Hey I could just use a little help.so I got my brute force motor back installed and out the carb back on.I’ve been trying to start it but I can’t.I got fuel coming to the end do the line and the vent lines connected and verified bit plugs have spark. Looking down into the carbs they seem dry.please any ideal what it could be.thank you!!
I did get it to start momentarily with some starter fluid but that’s about it
Pull the bowls off the carbs and make sure your floats in the bowls aren't stuck. I have a video for a carb clean on one of these bikes.
Have quick question ..after I did this build I can’t seem to get to shift into any gear? Have any idea what it could be?
did the shift forks feel like they're moving or are they stuck. Also have you tried rotating the shaft that the secondary clutch goes on while you shift gears
@@FourwheelerDoctor I don’t know w it feels as I didn’t put the motor back on the bike and try it. He rocked it back and forth and said it still would go in gear. The secondary shaft spins freely .. so I’m guessing the forks are stuck. Could that little ball be bolted down to tight ?
@@sheriffwoody5888 it's probably not the little ball. The way the dents are in that shift shaft the ball will roll up and down pretty easy because of the spring. I'm not real sure what it may be
@@FourwheelerDoctor alrighty thanks I’ll have to get to the bike and check out it myself and see what I notice
@@FourwheelerDoctor just talked to the guy said he can go through the gears by his hand but not with his shifter lever. Also once it shows it’s in gear it still rolls like it’s in neutral
Who does your cranks and do they supply the bearings?
I have a local guy that does them for me and we use an automotive bearing for the replacement.
@@FourwheelerDoctor i know its a lot to ask but can i get the info for the bearings and possibly your guy?
You say that starter gear is expensive at $200, I called for a new starter motor and almost passed out when they told me $650.
Good lord. Did you tell them you didn't want the gold plated one..lol
@@FourwheelerDoctor I told them I only wanted a starter, not the whole bikes electrical system.
When you reinstall the crank do you use the jig to install. I found a manual for my 07 and it shows a jig. I dont really want to buy a tool to use 1 time.
@@JB_Machine lol noni don't use a jig. I usually stick a socket opposite the big ends of the rods to keep the crankshaft from pushing together then I just press it in. I think I have a video that shows what I am talking about. I will look around and see if I can find it.
@@FourwheelerDoctor appreciate it👌
Hey Doc, I'm about to replace piston rings on one of these motors. I was thinking of going ahead and getting the bottom too. Did you buy rebuild kit or just order what you need?
I just order the parts individually.
How did you spin the crank to set up the time?
Most of the time I'll just install the pull start bolt back in the crank and turn it with it. Sometimes you can grab both ends of the crankshaft and get it turned over with your hands if you have the spark plugs out.
@@FourwheelerDoctor in the process of putting one back together just got case back together like in video. Just put that bolt back in and rotate it to line it with mark on case correct
@@sheriffwoody5888 yes that is correct
@@FourwheelerDoctor Thanks!
I’m building the same engine and just put the cases back together. I wanted to turn the crank to see how it would turn. It is tight. No heads or cylinders on either. Should it be that hard to turn?
Where are you located?
South Carolina
@@FourwheelerDoctor
If all possible please send me an email tomorrow sometime. txmadeelectric@gmail.com
Man I need help, I think you could help me out
I can try what do you need?
Just put my case back together, and now I can’t move my shifter
And when I torque the case down I can turn my crank
@@aatrix9751 have you tried to spend the shaft that the secondary clutch goes on while you shift it?
@@aatrix9751 just put my case back together with new bearing and bushing ---hot rods crank ----after i torque the case bolts my crank is locked solid ----any ideas???
Hello mate , fully rebuilt my 2014 from this video !
I've got a couple of little issues and struggling to find the solutions...
Have u got Facebook or insta atall so I can fire a few questions at you? Thanks 👍👍
I check this pretty regularly. Send me a message on here or you can email me at fourwheelerdoctor@gmail.com
@@FourwheelerDoctor I'm.all sorted now thanks again motor fully successfully built but a complete master ( me) thanks to ur video
When i took the heads off my 04 prairie 700 motor, this 10mm nut fell out of the top of the front head and i have no idea where it goes as it doesn’t look like anything’s missing. Any ideas?
Is it one of the lock nuts off the valve adjusters is it?
@@FourwheelerDoctor Nope there all there