SNK Neo Geo Arcade Stick Build (Segasocks Flavour)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- If you would like to support the channel via Patreon (keep the channel running) - / gadgetuk164
Alternatively you could buy me a coffee or donate via Ko-fi - much appreciated! ko-fi.com/gadg...
A short video showing how not to build an arcade stick ;) Thanks to Segasocks for the fantastic wooden case.
Darrens channel:- / darrenwalshsock
Stigsworld Arcade Stick (using the same case):- • Update on the arcade s...
StRoRo Arcade Stick (using the same case):- • Mr Stella Boxhead's jo...
#arcade #joystick #diy #controller
Massive respect to you, Stuart and John for completing the sticks! It has been absolutely fascinating for me seeing how differently everybody has tackled the project!! I almost feel guilty for charging!! :)
You probably would have been better off with a round hole cutting saw over a spade and half drilling each side but it doesn't matter anyway as you sorted it out! I do work with wood so of course I talk like its easy much like when your soldering millions of tiny points together! :D
Thanks, and right back at you with regards to the box - some nice craftmenship went into them! I love the weight of it as well - best choice for the case I think. Thanks for the tip there on using a round hole cutting saw - I didn't know they even exist lol. I need to spend more time at B&Q I think lol.
Another great project. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks =D
That's really cool dude. I always find it fascinating when people make their own joysticks. The good thing is you can make it to meet your comfort level with where everything is positioned. Interesting video! :)
Thanks =D
It's more unique making it by eye. Who needs templates. Functional and looks great.
Thanks =D
Darrens (Segasocks) channel:- ruclips.net/user/darrenwalshsock
Stigsworld Arcade Stick (using the same case):- ruclips.net/video/U5yLoR0Nxbw/видео.html
StRoRo Arcade Stick (using the same case):- ruclips.net/video/SrVD8mLVfMw/видео.html
Rather use happ screw switches, not much more and a lot easier to install and rely on, though longer. Use bigger success and plane some angles for a better look. Or just use a couple of wooden bread boards, drill the holes for the kit and use corner blocks with screws to hold the bottom on. I'm just looking for a seemless way to get the joysticks mounted without being visible so I might need to add some depth.
Well Done! Wood as a material, adds a lot to the nostalgia / arcade feel ;-)
Thanks =D Yes, the weight really makes it feel great to use too!
Cool to see the box again after seeing stigworlds joystick projects. That stick assembly looks solid. Cant help thinking a bluetooth lowpower mod would be cool, but i guess its a bit harde than it sounds.
Bluetooth would be nice, but tbh I prefer wired connections (or more battery problems lol).
Great project Gadget! That wooden box would be nice n solid/heavy for stable play. Your woodwork and power tools skills need some work though :p You've given me inspiration to make a MVS wooden box for the board. I'll get onto that and make a new vid
Yeah, it came out fine all things considered lol. I've tidied up some of the wiring and stuff today, and added one of those clip on ferrite beads just before the connector (just like on the original Neo CD controller). Later I will add support for the PC Engine I think - it might just be easier to have a convertor box, I need to have a think.
Interesting that you put the buttons on the same face I did I think Darren mounted everything on the removable face.
I used a template as a guide which made the buttons more even, but I was still lucky they fit. I made sure the button holes where spaced enough to take in to account the button lip, but the screws under them which keep them in place are slightly larger. Where button A and B have about 2-3mm space between them in the top of the joystick, inside the screws holding them are only just touching.
Thanks for reminding me!!! I knew there was someone else had done a build using Darrens box! I've added your video to the links below and in the vid description =D
Spade bits are crap for large holes. I'd suggest getting a Forstner bit. For this cheap kind of button forget about the tang that's supposed to grab the CPO, just concentrate on the plastic body bore. So long as the button fits really snug don't worry about it. Grab a scrap bit of ply or MDF to check the fit after drilling out the hole, once satisfied, crack on. .
All you have to consider is rotation from hammering the button, I'd suggest a spot of 2 part epoxy, and only just a dot, don't go all around the seam between the wood and the button, you aren't doing any favours for yourself. All you need to prevent is the button body rotating as you pound on it, eventually you'll twist the wires round and potentially add more and more stress on them leading to breakages thanks to fatigue - and you won't be able to visually diagnose this.
For the joystick plate, look for a door hinge drilling bit, these guys are awesome for centering a drill bit in the middle of a hole, it self centres and drills a small pilot hole for your screw / bolt.
Thanks for the great suggestions there =D I hadn't considered the buttons rotating from usage!
No probs at all. I have the same set of buttons in a box ready for a stick / Retropie build and am still mentally planning stuff including what could potentially go wrong!
Edit, the reason for suggesting epoxy and not hot glue is that it hot snot doesn't bond well to plastics, it will for a while but it'll pop off with fierce hammering of a button.
I always use a much smaller drill bit, then you can get in there with a rounded file and make the button placement really precise, and with the stick skateboard truck bolts are ideal, and then if you wanted you could add some laminated artwork, anyway great job, just some tips from making so many replacement cabinet parts.
Yeah - problem here is that Oak (I think its Oak) is really really hard!!! Using a file on it is like trying to cut a piece of wood with a sausage lol. Thanks for the tips though - skateboard truck bolts sound like a great idea =D I am thinking about some laminated artwork! I haven't finished modding it yet though - I think I might add Megadrive or PC Engine support, and tidy up the wiring whilst I am there.
Cool man, I look forward to seeing what you do, wood filler and a range of sand paper strengths are also useful for chips and surface damage if you damage anything, I use them as polish before sticking a design down, oh, and have a great 2017.
That turned out alright didn't it. Those control panel boxes sound like they were a bargain! :)
Yeah - I tidied it up a little today, sorted out my ground wires, added back the ground wire I cut out from the stick connector (god knows why I did that at the time). Shortened some of the wires inside, added strain reflief, and also one of those ferrite chokes just near the connector that goes to the MVS / AES. The boxes from Segasocks are really nice - they have a great weight to them!
A tip for using a spade bit is to always make a pilot hole to get the position spot on and use it both sides of the plywood to minimise any breaking away on the opposite side. Perhaps a hole saw bit would have been better suited for the plywood?
Also, you should have used some short chipboard screws on the inside for an invisible fixing for the joystick - if you used 4 or even 6 screws they'd hold the metal plate extremely securely and you'd have nothing showing on the front.
Wow, that's a really good point - I hadn't considered just supporting the metal bracket on from the underside using shorter screws. Although knowing my luck I would probably break it off lol. That said I think with 4 or 6 screws I am sure you're right and it would be supported perfectly. If I could do it over again I would certainly do that I think! That said, it came out OK and the screws don't get in the way at all - but they would have done if I had put 4 in the corners from the top side.
Neo Geo MVS/AES don't require a PCB of any description to enable the joysticks to work?
No, nothing! No logic or mutliplexing or anything! Just the buttons (A,B,C,D, SELECT, START), and directions, +5, GND, all go on individual wires to the 15 pin D-Type.
hahah you can tell your an electronics guy and not a woodwork dude. if you Google Slagcoin, you can download A4 templates for the buttons, print em out and drill through the paper. I also use a cable tie on the inside of the cable so when you pull the cable it stops at the cable tie. Also as you mentioned I would used a very large drill bit and slightly drill the top of the screw holes, sink em and use some wood filler over the top and sand. Still interesting vid as always bro
Probably better to use a counter sink bit over a drill bit as one wrong move and you have a big hole for the screw to fall through! Lol
Segasocks Yer true if your not used to doing it, good point.
Haha =D Yes, I was aware of templates but I got lazy and thought I could do it by eye (mistake really i think). Great idea on a cable tie as strain relief - I will do that as well tomorrow!
Yep, that would be me lol. Just a little bit more.... ooops, what can I filll that hole with now?
Hi ! Great job here ! Do you have the plan of Neo Geo DB15 please ?
This might help:- www.mmmonkey.co.uk/snk-neo-geo-diy-db15-controller-plug/
I don't quite get how you determined which pins led to which of these 15 wires for attaching the correct buttons. As I want to build a stick myself I would greatly appreciate it if you could explain this.
Sorry, you're right - if you start by taking a look at the pinouts (eg. old.pinouts.ru/Game/NeoGeoJoystick_pinout.shtml). I then cut the male part of the connector off the extension cable I bought, and measured continuity with my multimeter betwee the exposed wires and the connections in the plug, and made a note which colour related to which pin. Then its a case of looking at the pinout table to connect up the correct switch to the correct coloured wire.
Thank you for your answer! Now I understand the procedure :)
I bought the same cord you have and I can't figure out where each wire goes?
You need to test on contuity test on your multimeter (if you dont have one, get one - around £10 on eBay). Beeb out each connection on the connector to the wire and note it down on a piece of paper.
So the ground starts from the controller wire and ends at the joystick?
Yes, ground from the cable just goes to one connection on each switch, to one connection on each direction switch and over to the ground connection on the stick. The direction and button wires then just each connect to one of the switches.
Always wanted to make a stick like this for my AES but just don't have the balls! I just no Id cock it up! Well done though! MJ
Yeah, me too lol. It didn't come out perfect and was a nightmare to do, but it does work really well and is my main stick now. Thanks =D
Thanks for the video! Can I ask you if it is possible to do an arcade stick like this for NeoGeo but with light buttons? If so, can we use the 5v pinout to turn them on since 5v is not used? Thank you
I think if there's a 5v connection on the cable, then yes - totally possible! I would probably do it with low power LEDs (dropped by resistors) I think.
@@GadgetUK164 Thank you so much for your reply. Well, all extension cables like the one you used have the 5V cable, that is not used for the arcade sticks, right? So if instead of not connecting the 5v cable at all, connect it to a led putting a 320 Ohm resistor for example, do you think it will work? Or it would "load" too much the MVS board?
Hi,how many wires do you need?
If you are building a Neo Geo stick you need a wire for each of these:-
Ground
Select
Start
A
B
C
D
UP
DOWN
LEFT
RIGHT
I count 11. If you want to pass 5v you will need 12 wires.
@@GadgetUK164 Thanks!
Great video! It's work with Neo Geo CD or AES?
Thanks =D Yes, working with Neo Geo CD, AES and MVS.
hey man very good video!
i just bought consolized mvs and im looking to build a joystick for it will it be really hard?
or fairly simply? what parts are needed
It's pretty easy to build an arcade stick - basically you need a box or some other case to mount your stick and buttons. Then either buy a Joystick and buttons from eBay or AliExpress, or maybe just do what I did and buy a cheap arcade stick kit (£20 ish). Finally you need an extension cable for the Neo Geo controller, or you could just buy the correct wire (with enough cores for the Neo Geo controller), and a 15 pin D type female connector.
ok thank you :)
Nice, What I did when I built my super-gun was I gutted a faulty Tatsunoko vs. Capcom arcade stick for the Wii and just rewired it. Works great and less time drilling holes, I also hacked a couple of Sega Saturn pads as well.
Here's a link to my super-gun video if you haven't already seen it.
ruclips.net/video/Dn2zEyjnbA0/видео.html
That's also a great idea! If you can find a faulty arcade stick - they are bloody hard to find though =/ I've been searching for faulty arcade sticks for the last 2 years lol. Thanks for the link - I've not seen that video yet - I will watch it later though =D
Hello Chris,
Another superb video as usual kind sir. Glad that your friends with Segasocks (Daz) doing this great project and the pair of you were able to make something excellent like this arcade stick.
Well done. Maybe we can see a collaboration video with both of you doing a project together at the sometime!
Daz is a true gentleman and he also helps contribute to the Neo-Geo thread. Amazing guitar playing he does too.
I posted this on the Neo-Geo thread on Atariage.com for you as usual.
Its on page 250, post #6231for you to view.
atariage.com/forums/topic/223548-the-official-neo-geo-thread/page-250
Thank you as always kind sir. I'll let Darren know that this's up on the Neo-Geo thread as well.
Anthony...
Thanks! It came out well in the end I think - despite my lack of skill when it comes to wood work =D
hey mate, here are some layout you can use in case you decide to make another one. I personally recommend the Astro city one. Is the one i used for mine, but i tweaked it a bit before printing my final design before cutting.
www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html
Thanks =D It's definitely a good idea to use a template like those.