How To Check Your Charging System On A Riding Lawn Mower
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- Опубликовано: 23 апр 2024
- Maintaining a properly charged battery is essential to ensure that a riding lawn mower starts and operates efficiently. The charging system comprises of various components such as the alternator, voltage regulator, and battery. To check the charging system, you should first inspect the battery terminals and cables for any damage, corrosion or loose connections. Use a wire brush to clean any corrosion and ensure all connections are tight and secure.
After inspecting the battery, start the engine and measure the voltage across the battery terminals using a multimeter. With the engine running at full throttle, the voltage reading should range between 13 and 14 volts, indicating that the charging system is functioning correctly. If the voltage falls below this range, it could be due to a problem with the alternator, voltage regulator, or wiring. Further diagnostic testing may be necessary to identify the issue accurately.
In addition to this, check the wiring harness and connections associated with the charging system for any wear, damage, or fraying. Any damaged wiring should be repaired or replaced to ensure proper electrical conductivity and to prevent potential issues. Regularly checking the charging system and addressing any issues promptly is crucial to keep your riding lawn mower running smoothly and avoid unexpected breakdowns or starting problems. 
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Another good video for a Home DIY guy like me. Broken down in terms I can understand. I have the battery testing tool Eric used and I better understand how to use it. Flywheel removal also is now easy to understand. One of my riders had running issues that after much trial and error (and parts) I took the flywheel off with a hammer and pry bar. The issue was clay dirt built up under the flywheel. After cleaning this out of the flywheel, and reassembling it worked flawlessly. Using the tool Eric used would have made removing the flywheel easier and probably safer without damaging the flywheel.
Great add Randy with crap getting built up under the flywheel causing the issues. Thanks for the kind words on my video.
Even if the battery is dead, if the stator is charging it should be in the 14 volt range at the battery while running at full throttle. I always spray PB Blaster on everything it helps especially with flywheels. You should try the air hammer with a pointed chisel and prybar sometime it is way faster and easier. The whole bottom drawer of my toolbox is specialty tools and pullers and I haven't hardly been in that drawer in years.
There are a number of ways to remove the flywheel to expose the stator. I have always used a puller with the 20 volt dewalt to get the job done. I also have a draw full of tools that we had to buy to get a job done. There they sit until we see it again, which sometimes is never lol thanks
I started at the battery, took my engine out, sprayed the stater with pb blaster, but it still don't charge, and now it don't run, grass is growing good though.
You lost me, George. Did you clean battery posts and connections? Were you getting 14 volts at the battery when the mower was running? If not, did you check for a blown fuse? If so, did you check the wiring harness for any signs of damage or wear? Within the charging system, you have the battery, regulator, and the stator. Now if it is putting out around 14 volts and drops way down when you engage the electric PTO, it could be a sign of a bad PTO.
mr e get yourself a coupl of driver drills so u dont have 2 change sockeits a lot plus u could get air tools
I don't mind changing sockets James. I could have used my impact driver with a socket end on it as well. thanks
I know I am gonna break a nail or two on this job…..😮
But the satisfaction of knowing you can do it Christine is worth it, thanks
Your stator should be producing 14.2 volts in order to keep that battery fully charged
Your correct Doug and thanks. I have always looked for 14 or above until the battery was fully charged.
@@northernnewyorkparts Reason I knew that is Im an 80 year old RETIRED automobile mechanic and I studied that in School about alternators generators and charging systems. The OLD 6Volt Generator systems must Produce AT LEAST 8 volts in order to maintain a complete charge on the battery. We used to have an old school way of hooking a positive 6 volt lead to the positive terminal on the generator and a negative lead to any ground surface on the generator and if the generator began to turn on its own then except for checking the brushes to make sure they wernt worn too far we could count the generator as good and go directly to the regulator if there was a problem
@@douglasmorrison9098 that is old school and we still use that idea when working on 6 volt farm tractors. Claude is 72 and that is how he was taught many a moons ago lol thanks