Craftsman Riding Mower Battery Keeps Dying Won't Stay Charged Diagnosis and Repair With Tips
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2023
- Thank you for watching!! If we helped you out and you want to show your support - LIKE, SUBSCRIBE or give us a shout out below. If you saw something you didn't like leave your comment below as well, these things help us get better!
To see our recommended tools and products visit our Amazon shop at www.amazon.com/shop/individua...
We check out a Craftsman T110 riding mower that the batter keeps dying and the battery won't stay charged. We check out the system to figure out what the problem is.
This is probably the most common issue we see along with the others we go over in the video.
We go over many of the other things that can also be wrong and how to do diagnostic testing to find the issue and fix it easily
This is a Craftsman 13AN77XS093 riding mower but is similar to many of the others MTD makes for Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt and Murray
We give a full diagnostic and repair of the issue with tips and Information.
When the charging system has been charging the battery at full rpm for a couple of minutes your battery should be reading 13.5 to 14.3 volts DC
Like and subscribe to see more helpful videos like this one! Save some money by doing it yourself!
#craftsman #briggsandstratton #smallenginerepair #individualizedrepair #smallbusiness #diymaintenance
About Us:
My name is Martin. I have been repairing tools and small engines for almost 20 years. We operate a small engine repair shop in Illinois. We service / repair Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki, John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro Tecumseh, Loncin, Honda, Craftsman, Husqvarna, MTD, Troy Bilt, Simplicity, John Deere, Exmark, LCT, Generac and many more brands. We work on riding mowers, walk behind mowers, snow blowers, zero turns, generators, pressure washers and much more. We normally repair about 3,000 pieces of equipment every year and look at many more that are beyond an affordable repair. Hopefully our videos will save you some money and give you the information you need to work on your own equipment or figure out the issue at hand.
Disclaimer: Links included in the description are affiliate links. As an Amazon associate we earn from qualifying purchases. There will be no additional charge to you for purchasing here. We appreciate your support, which allows us to continue to provide original content!
Please be careful when repairing any piece of equipment and follow all possible safety measures. This video is for entertainment purposes only. 
Хобби
![Eminem - The Death of Slim Shady [Album Trailer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/X0HIrS6kUYI/mqdefault.jpg)
You should be a teacher because you are really really good
Awesome video
I appreciate your kind words. Thanks also for watching!
Ty for your info good video keep up the good work people like you helping people like us diagnose. I hate electrical, but you made it better to understand.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
I try to separate out comments/questions so I stand a better chance of not having a question overlooked in long comments.
I appreciate that you’ve stuck with the more simple channel layout, especially not even doing shorts, for which I have no use whatsoever. I really appreciate that you’ve created a good set of folders for each subject so it’s easy to zero in on specific subjects. 👍 I guess you’ll need a couple more for your two latest videos. 😉
Yeah, just started doing a little more with the videos and channel. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Constructive feedback: You didn’t really say what the first test was for, right at the beginning, so a viewer would understand what they were watching. I know it’s easy to overlook that kind of detail, but for total novices, explaining the stuff you take for granted goes a long way in helping them grasp what is going on. Along that same line, you somewhat glossed over the stator diode versus regulator difference - what the diode actually looks and feels like in the wire, how to find it, etc. You did mention it and point it out, but I think going into a bit more detail about that would have been helpful.
Overall, though, a great video, so thanks! I’ll be checking out more of your videos as I get time (subbed to dozens at this point). Subbed and getting notifications! 🔧👍
Good tips! I make plenty of mistakes or misspeak in many of them but do appreciate the feedback. I enjoy helping people and continue to try and improve. Thanks for watching!
I believe this is the first video I’ve watched on your channel and you did a great job. I appreciate the tip about using the 1/4x20 SS bolts on the battery connections. Makes perfect sense!
Appreciate that! Welcome!
Great on Time. 😊
Thanks for watching!
I noticed Walmart battery are not as good as they once were, short life and lower cca than stated on labels
I see them (die hard) and the evertstarts test a lot lower than labeled straight from the store. We use Die Hard 340CCA batteri3s and very rarely have any issue with them
Great info. Do you prefer the analog over the digital because of the needle? Still have a couple. Take care.
I do, just makes a draw really easy to see because of the needle. I usually start on highest amperage setting and work my way down to most sensitive to check for parasitic draw but this one was pretty straightforward
@@IndRepair thought of something you could share with everyone. Couldn’t find the slow leak in three tires. Zero turn and snow blower. It was the seal on the valve needle. I also make sure they have good caps on them. Thanks for what you share and have a great holiday.
Your talking valve core that unscrews from the middle?
@@IndRepair lol, sorry early and couldn’t remember. Learned about that when I was a kid riding my bike all over.
Nice! I do see the issue quite a bit
150 CCA is ridiculous. Lawdy they building them cheap these days. Good video on diagnosing a parasitic draw. Cheers.
They sure do!! Thanks for watching!
Hey how do you tap spindles ?
Usually use a tap set but you can also use a self tapping bolt and impact
@@IndRepair thanks for the help
I'm so ticked. I've got a two year old Craftsman t210 as well I think with a Kohler engine. Hasn't been used 15 hours total in two/three years mainly because I have to fight to get it going. Battery keeps showing low though charged completely. I bought this investment because I could not afford having someone come out but now looks like a myriad of issues could be causing this and I may have to spend $ to have a mechanic pick it up.
I absolutely understand your frustration there!
I was expecting to see at least 13.8V at the battery when running. Was less than 13V really normal? (I’m more familiar with automotive systems.)
13.8-14.3 will be the normal charge voltage after running for a bit. I did not wait to show it come all the way up because with this dirty DC charging system it takes forever to charge the battery completely. I was just checking that the voltage was going up at that point. It showed fully charged when doing our final test before sending it out
@@IndRepair gotcha. Thanks!
My badboy zero turn puts out 12.40 volts from the voltage regulator. Is this low?
Yes, this is definitely low. You should normally get 13.8 to 14.3 volts on a 12V charging system
You obviously have no clue what you are talking about.
same issue
Hope you got it taken care of
I have over 400 crank its brand new started 3 times .then i had to boost it twice from my car then it waz dead
Indont have a meter .do i need a new alternator ? Alread changed the solnoid and coils
Possible the stator is bad not charging it
I would get s meter and see if the voltage clips then trace it down
A bad battery can overheat the charging system including the alternator or stator
It sure can!
One other thing - you didn’t specify switching the multimeter lead over to amps to test for parasitic draw. The devil is in the details! 😉🔧👍
I talked about this at about 3:00 before doing the test and showed a couple different meter selections
@@IndRepair You misunderstood my remark. You didn’t talk about plugging the positive lead into the amps port.
@@Rein_Ciarfella Ahh I gotcha!
That charging system is pooched... Should see about 13.5vdc when charging.
It takes a while for the battery to charge on these mowers, they very slowly come up on voltage as was shown when running it was just slowly charging. These mowers without a regulator will not instantly jump to 13 plus volts, you will have to wait a couple minutes for them to charge as they only put out 3 amps. You can test the DC output voltage at the stator pins as described for correct operation but this one was definitely not bad. For more information on stators visit www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_specifications.pdf Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair That may be true but your video implies that the 12.6 volts charging is O.K.. Showing the charging system working correctly when "warmed up" would have been the correct way to make the video. It would have only taken a few minutes to add that to the video. I see this way to often in other videos where they just skip thru things and make a quick comment at the end saying this is what it really should be doing.
@@jimscott8482 I never implied this, in the video I explain how it is continuing to climb and should top off at around 13.8 volts in most cases otherwise you have an issue
@@IndRepair If your serious about making these videos then you need to do it right. Otherwise just do a web page and write down the procedure.
Good lord..all the meters..I'm just gonna buy new battery...
Just showing different ones, all you need is one for testing
If there's a battery drain or a problem with the charging system a new battery isn't going to fix your problem.
@@LampkinC Definitely. May help for a short time until it goes dead again
I just got new battery 2 weeks ago n still have to jump start
Check charging system and connections?