Man. Just keep going on.. I live in Turkey and I understand the economic conditions of the country very well. It's great that you're trying so hard in a country where even living is difficult. If you spend enough time and continue to improve yourself, you will get closer to where you want to be in not too long.
*Wow, this DIY filament dryer is an absolute game-changer! 💡 The ingenuity and creativity behind this build are truly inspiring. Plus, the fact that it's under $40 makes it even more incredible. Thanks a ton for sharing this innovation with us! Can't wait to try it out myself. 🚀*
Defiantly not under $40, but still looks great. You can make this even cheaper. You can find digital temp controllers for about $5, a 50w PTC heater with fan for $15, 60w 24v PSU for under $10, and a humidity reader for about $5 (5 or 6 packs are ~$10). I would recommend putting silica gel near the heater. And TPU printed gaskets would be nice As for the filament used to print this, change the infill to 5-10% depending on the infill type and single walls to all the areas that don't need structural support. Pro tip; you need a little bit of air to get out on top so the humidity has somewhere to go Last thing, I've been using storage containers and silica gel for the longest (i started 3D printing back around 2012) and i also have a Filament Dryer i picked up for $5 because it was missing the PSU. I found the filament dryer isn't any better UNLESS you have a large silica container in in and NEED to dry your filament fast.
I think the design is a good "first go" at it. Since you're printing your own "box", you might consider a double wall design with some air space between them to help insulate the dryer from the surrounding air to keep the heat in, instead of the walls conducting the heat to the surrounding room air. Even a 4mm or 5mm gap would make a significant difference in the amount of heat required to run the dryer, dramatically reducing the energy needs. Probably take more time, but if you swing back to a smaller nozzle, probably won't take much more material. Again, nice job! 👍
You are taking the moisture from the filament and putting it into the air. If you don't let the hot moist air out and let some fresh air in, the filament will just be sitting in warm moist air. You don't actually want the box to be totally air-tight. Hot air can hold more water than cold air.
this is the best idea in the net , the heat matt. the circulating air fan and the silica gel , basically the best of both world, I can get the petg filament locally and cheaper than pla, thank for this eye opener video.
Подобные сушилки не новость, но правильнее было бы использовать листы дерева (фанеру) для корпуса, чтобы можно было греть до температуры сушки ABS, Nylon, а эту можно только с осушающим гелем использовать.
And I'd drop those 2 standard controller modules for an ESP8266 or ESP32 with a humidity and temperature sensor (no need to go for a module there either, just the much cheaper one-wire 3-pin component), a cheap OLED display, some buttons to control it (in addition to the WIFI control the ESP would give), a simple 5V power supply for the ESP and a dual-relay to turn on/off both Live and Neutral of AC going to the heater and some mosfets to control the fans. Then the software you write for the ESP allows it to keep things below a certain humidity and the control can be much more simple than the 2-module approach shown in the video. All of the above might even be cheaper than the components shown in the video (as you won't need a 24V supply), but of course will be more work.
a thermistor would help regulate the heat better. i made a heated drybox using an arduino nano + power mosfet. read the temps using the thermistor and then i used a PID lib to control the bed. I used the same pid params that i use in my printer (it has the same bed so the same params fit well)
Be careful at 80ºC, PLA starts to soften at 55º and PETG about 65ºC they will not melt at 80º but will soften and on a tight wound spool if soft may deform and sort of squish and no longer be properly round to 1.75mm so give you feed problems. Most all of the professional dryers don't go above 55ºC because of this.
How did this cost only 36 dollars to make, just the filament will cost you at least 30 dollars, then 15 dollars for the stl files, another 20 dollars for the controllers, then you still need the power supply, wire, the humidity display, the power cord connector, the heater element, two 5015 fans and the silica beads
What are you talking about you can get filament for at least $9.99 nowadays. Now for the other components I would suggest sourcing them from Ali Express to keep the build cost down.
Not sure where the idea of the stl files costing 15 dollars if he's done the design himself, comes from. You regullarly pay someone $15 to take your design and turn it into stl files? That seems strange. The power supply and wire are likely things he has lying around from working on 3d printers. I have 3 or four myself of the power supplies, and spools of various color wire from working on electronics projects. I'll acknowledge that a year ago you might have had to pay $30 for 2 kg of Creality PETG, I don't remember what it was going for then. It shouldn't cost more than $5, as the raw PETG pellets are pennies on the kilogram. so you're paying for the process of extruding and spooling filament, along with a small price, again pennies, for pigment to color the filament. Handling is going to be the biggest expense. It's not the design I would go for, but it probably would be more cost effective than my design idea. Those silica beads packets he used are the variety shipped with every spool of filament I've ever gotten. As a note, include the beads in the dryer when you're drying the filament, as that will release the water the beads have accumulated. Don't use the beads or packets immediately after opening a spool of filament, the clear plastic will let water through, and if your filament came from overseas, it's likely to have been in a high humidity environment for at least some time on it's way to your place. Over all it's a nice project.
Leaving a comment to feed the algorithm, this looks like a fun build and a solid alternative if you cant (or don't want to) adapt a used food dehydrator or go for something like the Sunlu S4
Hi, really cool project. Do you know what the current draw of the heated bed is? I have an extra as well but can't find any info on my specific model I want to use a esp8266 to control the relay so I can turn it on wirelessly. So I'll need a buck convertor to step down the 12v to the 8266 and then maybe another to step back up. I am just planning on using a normal 5v relay, not the one you used. Thanks!
You could make a small version of this that uses the printer as the heat source make a small single roll version that slides over your heatbed and then just use usb to power the 2 fans thanks for the proof of concept ill be trying my own design and ill be uploading it
@@Creative3DP it's called hdpe welding rod or pp welding rod , single roll of filament cost about 750 but in bulk it cost around 250 . If you are able to produce prints from these filament it will be a great success in 3d printing 👍
Hello, thank you for your video. Please don't add subtitles because when you don't speak English and you're using RUclips's translator, the subtitles in your video interfere with subtitles in other languages, so please let those who need subtitles activate them in RUclips ;o)
I wish you would have used one of those apps to generate an AI voice to read your script. I mean no offense by this but your accent is a little difficult to understand sometimes when you're talking fast. Anyways cool idea thanks for sharing.🙂👍✌️
"Hahaha. I know sometimes i speak fast but voice in this video is distorted because I used an AI noise reducer to remove the background noise, which unfortunately also distorted the voice. By the way, thank you!
Man. Just keep going on.. I live in Turkey and I understand the economic conditions of the country very well. It's great that you're trying so hard in a country where even living is difficult. If you spend enough time and continue to improve yourself, you will get closer to where you want to be in not too long.
Thanks mate, I will
Oh my gosh, finally someone is showing wiring the human way
Thanks
*Wow, this DIY filament dryer is an absolute game-changer! 💡 The ingenuity and creativity behind this build are truly inspiring. Plus, the fact that it's under $40 makes it even more incredible. Thanks a ton for sharing this innovation with us! Can't wait to try it out myself. 🚀*
Thank you so much
Defiantly not under $40, but still looks great. You can make this even cheaper. You can find digital temp controllers for about $5, a 50w PTC heater with fan for $15, 60w 24v PSU for under $10, and a humidity reader for about $5 (5 or 6 packs are ~$10). I would recommend putting silica gel near the heater. And TPU printed gaskets would be nice
As for the filament used to print this, change the infill to 5-10% depending on the infill type and single walls to all the areas that don't need structural support.
Pro tip; you need a little bit of air to get out on top so the humidity has somewhere to go
Last thing, I've been using storage containers and silica gel for the longest (i started 3D printing back around 2012) and i also have a Filament Dryer i picked up for $5 because it was missing the PSU. I found the filament dryer isn't any better UNLESS you have a large silica container in in and NEED to dry your filament fast.
I think the design is a good "first go" at it. Since you're printing your own "box", you might consider a double wall design with some air space between them to help insulate the dryer from the surrounding air to keep the heat in, instead of the walls conducting the heat to the surrounding room air. Even a 4mm or 5mm gap would make a significant difference in the amount of heat required to run the dryer, dramatically reducing the energy needs. Probably take more time, but if you swing back to a smaller nozzle, probably won't take much more material.
Again, nice job! 👍
You are taking the moisture from the filament and putting it into the air. If you don't let the hot moist air out and let some fresh air in, the filament will just be sitting in warm moist air. You don't actually want the box to be totally air-tight. Hot air can hold more water than cold air.
aaah, de DIY spirit, Prevents me from buying many things as well😂😂
link doesnt work
SUBSCRIBED!!! You inspired and encouraged me to make a custom dry box for the Bamboo Lab AMS Lite! 👍👍👍
Thats great!!!
this is the best idea in the net , the heat matt. the circulating air fan and the silica gel , basically the best of both world, I can get the petg filament locally and cheaper than pla, thank for this eye opener video.
Thanks
Amazing video and so clearly explained, really enjoyed watching it. 👍🏼
Thank You
love yout DIY spirit nice video keep up the good work and i might gif this a try even to i already have a filament dryer ;)
great
Подобные сушилки не новость, но правильнее было бы использовать листы дерева (фанеру) для корпуса, чтобы можно было греть до температуры сушки ABS, Nylon, а эту можно только с осушающим гелем использовать.
i love the idea, i would recommend swapping out the heatbed with a PTC heater for safety reasons :)
And I'd drop those 2 standard controller modules for an ESP8266 or ESP32 with a humidity and temperature sensor (no need to go for a module there either, just the much cheaper one-wire 3-pin component), a cheap OLED display, some buttons to control it (in addition to the WIFI control the ESP would give), a simple 5V power supply for the ESP and a dual-relay to turn on/off both Live and Neutral of AC going to the heater and some mosfets to control the fans. Then the software you write for the ESP allows it to keep things below a certain humidity and the control can be much more simple than the 2-module approach shown in the video. All of the above might even be cheaper than the components shown in the video (as you won't need a 24V supply), but of course will be more work.
a thermistor would help regulate the heat better. i made a heated drybox using an arduino nano + power mosfet. read the temps using the thermistor and then i used a PID lib to control the bed. I used the same pid params that i use in my printer (it has the same bed so the same params fit well)
I was sure someone tried to make a filament dryer! bro i will try it now thx for proof of concept
Great, best of luck
Be careful at 80ºC, PLA starts to soften at 55º and PETG about 65ºC they will not melt at 80º but will soften and on a tight wound spool if soft may deform and sort of squish and no longer be properly round to 1.75mm so give you feed problems. Most all of the professional dryers don't go above 55ºC because of this.
This video is going to take off I’m calling it now
Thanks I hope so, may God make words true
It definitely should
How did this cost only 36 dollars to make, just the filament will cost you at least 30 dollars, then 15 dollars for the stl files, another 20 dollars for the controllers, then you still need the power supply, wire, the humidity display, the power cord connector, the heater element, two 5015 fans and the silica beads
What are you talking about you can get filament for at least $9.99 nowadays. Now for the other components I would suggest sourcing them from Ali Express to keep the build cost down.
Exactly I can get rolls of really good abs for 9.99 a roll I'm pri ting this def
Not sure where the idea of the stl files costing 15 dollars if he's done the design himself, comes from. You regullarly pay someone $15 to take your design and turn it into stl files? That seems strange. The power supply and wire are likely things he has lying around from working on 3d printers. I have 3 or four myself of the power supplies, and spools of various color wire from working on electronics projects. I'll acknowledge that a year ago you might have had to pay $30 for 2 kg of Creality PETG, I don't remember what it was going for then. It shouldn't cost more than $5, as the raw PETG pellets are pennies on the kilogram. so you're paying for the process of extruding and spooling filament, along with a small price, again pennies, for pigment to color the filament. Handling is going to be the biggest expense. It's not the design I would go for, but it probably would be more cost effective than my design idea. Those silica beads packets he used are the variety shipped with every spool of filament I've ever gotten.
As a note, include the beads in the dryer when you're drying the filament, as that will release the water the beads have accumulated. Don't use the beads or packets immediately after opening a spool of filament, the clear plastic will let water through, and if your filament came from overseas, it's likely to have been in a high humidity environment for at least some time on it's way to your place.
Over all it's a nice project.
Great Video! have you considered printing the feet (or part of) out of TPU?
I haven't but seems like a good to have proper grip
Leaving a comment to feed the algorithm, this looks like a fun build and a solid alternative if you cant (or don't want to) adapt a used food dehydrator or go for something like the Sunlu S4
Thanks, yeah surely yes food dehydrator is also a good option
Hi, really cool project. Do you know what the current draw of the heated bed is? I have an extra as well but can't find any info on my specific model I want to use a esp8266 to control the relay so I can turn it on wirelessly. So I'll need a buck convertor to step down the 12v to the 8266 and then maybe another to step back up. I am just planning on using a normal 5v relay, not the one you used. Thanks!
its a 12v heatbed and it consumes around 144w of electricity to heat this thing up
It would be interesting to add a dessicant pool and test if it makes it dry the filament faster
It would be interesting to test since, I have included two large pockets/slots inside for desiccant packs.
You could make a small version of this that uses the printer as the heat source make a small single roll version that slides over your heatbed and then just use usb to power the 2 fans thanks for the proof of concept ill be trying my own design and ill be uploading it
That's amazing, do share the STL files link with me when its done. I'd love to see it
How about saving time and money, build a dryer around a one dollar plastic bucket with a lid!
becasue youtube. and he wants to sell plans.
What! 1 dollar bucket? I paid $3:00, I feel ripped off now.😂
Very good sir!
So nice of you
good video, very nice editing aswell! mustve taken a long time of painful editing haha
Designing and building is fun but man editing is really really painful. Thanks you for recognized that
@@Creative3DP of course! i know the pain lol
I use a free filament dryer, my stove
Imagine buying 3d printer and NOT printing your own dryer :D
I would like to dry Nylon and PC, something like 90c is needed
sure, Probably you can use for that as you can heat the heat bed upto 110 degree celcius
Good luck buddy, thank you
Nice video bro , very informative, I found some hdpe and pp filament online would you want to test it ?
Thanks, sure I'll look into it
@@Creative3DP it's called hdpe welding rod or pp welding rod , single roll of filament cost about 750 but in bulk it cost around 250 . If you are able to produce prints from these filament it will be a great success in 3d printing 👍
sure, Let me Look into this, they seems very new to me but the main problem which these wires are tangle and inconsistent diameter
@@Creative3DP I don't think this will be a problem as the , these welding rods are of 3 mm
are they not available in 1.7mm diameter
Wish i would have grabbed files as now they on Kickstarter and took files down
I would recommend get the kickstarter one as it's much more refined version of this.
Yea free always beats paid. Great idea though,
link does not work oh wells
Hello, thank you for your video. Please don't add subtitles because when you don't speak English and you're using RUclips's translator, the subtitles in your video interfere with subtitles in other languages, so please let those who need subtitles activate them in RUclips ;o)
Thanks for pointing it out. I'll keep it in mind.
I wish you would have used one of those apps to generate an AI voice to read your script. I mean no offense by this but your accent is a little difficult to understand sometimes when you're talking fast. Anyways cool idea thanks for sharing.🙂👍✌️
"Hahaha. I know sometimes i speak fast but voice in this video is distorted because I used an AI noise reducer to remove the background noise, which unfortunately also distorted the voice. By the way, thank you!
Bro i want to make toy and sall but i want a guide
What a terrible design... Nice try though. Give you that.
Persistance is key buddy! A failure is not a fail...it's an opportunity to learn what NOT to do next try.
Much needed! Thanks 👍