@@SteveRoney-rz8yg Yo, dawg, I heard you like making comments... I'm gonna comment your comment so I can comment on your comment while commenting about your comments.
Agreed. 100%. A while back, total rookie season, down at the Wedge in Newport, I got held down by a large set of three waves. Probably holding my breath 15-20 seconds in literal panic mode (heart racing) for three waves in a row. And having literally 2 seconds to surface, exhale and inhale before he next wave crushed me. Almost died. As Laird said, it’s about being as relaxed as possible given the circumstances. But that’s another story when you’re getting ragdolled under the waves and don’t know which way is up and which way is down. Brutal.
@@mirzapalmao that’s why people don’t body surf the wedge unless bro really knows what’s up. I used to go to the wedge just to watch people eat shit dude it’s brutal right there. Lots of people have hit that jetty and died or got stuck because of how quick those waves come in
The wedge is brutal getting slamed right on the shore when i was there, but the waves were so big you wanted to keep going even though i was getting thrashed @@mirzapa
My 7 year old got rolled by a huge set of waves this summer. I grabbed the back of his wetsuit and pulled him up and he was still fighting to stand up. He was struggling so hard, with his eyes closed and breath held, that it took him a couple of seconds to realize I had lifted him up out of the water. When he finally took a breath it was a panicked, desperate gasp that was more like an agonized, inhaled scream. He started to cry. That sound and the look on his face were so alarming to me I made him take a break with me to go get ice cream. After I had a chance to think about what I had learned as a kid that might help him, I told him this same piece of advice: once the waves have got you is not the time to be scared. That’s the time to relax so you don’t burn up all your air and can figure out when to stand up. He never takes what I say without question - ever - and was really dubious about that whole idea. So, we went back in and practiced getting rolled by the biggest waves until he was comfortable with reading the pattern of incoming waves, curling into a ball, rolling in the tumble and waiting for the right moment to take a breath or stand up. I kept him at it for a while until he came up whining that he wanted to go back home because he’d gotten too much sand in his suit, which was true for me as well. I think he told me my strategy was stupid. The next morning my wife and I were watching him in the water. It was not quite as rough, but he tried to catch a good sized wave with his boogie board and went under. You could see him get caught and rolled and he didn’t come up right away. My wife, who grew up lifeguarding, started trying to hand me her cellphone so she could go in and get him, but we saw his little head pop up, take a breath, and duck into the next wave. Then he came up, got feet under him and struggled out of the water. We were walking toward him to see if he was ok but he grabbed the board, turned around and ran back into the waves whooping like an idiot. He never even looked in our direction. When I listened to this clip it hit me that much of my life could have been easier and perhaps more fun if I had adopted the same sort of approach I was trying to teach my kid for dealing with getting tumbled by the ocean.
Linking this to not fighting life when things get hard but to relax and wait for a time to breathe is absolutely beautiful. As I’m going through a divorce right now this is what I needed in my head today. Thank you
I cannot stress enough, especially after reading these comments. Laird is a legend with tons of passion but the feelings and understanding he has for water is beautiful and his relationship seems different because of how he respects it. He listens and feels in a meditative state. He even says with no ego if the ocean has you that’s not the time to fight. It can hold you calmly for 5-6 minutes or can hold you down and thrash you where it’s heroic at max heart rate for 20 seconds because he respects it.
I guess it’s hard if you’ve never been trained or told. Most people don’t know anything so they do the opposite of what is correct. It was one of the first lessons we ever got in surfing and in kayaking. Then, they put us in that exact situation so we could feel it.
Exactly, sad about your friends. I’ve been in it and had to tell myself relax or you’re going to die. Like he said in a big set more is coming. Alooooha
Being thrashed underwater for 30 seconds and mantaining composure is something to be confident of. Losing all spacial awareness and just enduring the beating.
@@dwmueller76I was underwater for about 15 seconds one time at Huntington Beach on a Saturday morning and I was VERY concerned at approximately the 10 seconds mark. It definitely got my attention.
I'm a smoker and I can hold my breath for close to 2 mins at rest, easy 1 minute no bullshit. If I was under a big wave panicking, especially if I had no chance to take a big breath before I went under it's death all day. My hat goes off to these guys surfing that scale of wave 👏👏👏👏
Laird Hamilton should be 8x as famous as joe rogan. A 6 ft 4 alpha male.who climbs trees to eat coconuts and could survive on an island alone for an decade. Dude is the exact definition of lengthy strength and flexibility. And one of the 2 or 3 greatest surfers ever. Laird f in hamilton
I grew up in Texas. Moved to socal in 91.i was 12, 90 lbs maybe. And getting Churned by the Huntington waves was an eye opener. Thank god i had learned how to relax in that specific situation.
@@CountMeOut33 I live next to the Susquehanna River up in PA and I'm telling you there was a 5-6 year stretch where someone died every summer in that river. A current got them and they never came back up.
As someone born and raised in the rough NorCal ocean, it comes second nature to me, a playground. But I respect your attitude about it 🫡 I’ve seen way too many who have no business getting in.
There’s tribe of nomadic people that live on the water. They literally survived on water for thousands of years. They evolved bigger spleens and other body parts and can walk on the ocean floor for 15 min
I got rag dolled last summer while boogie boarding and according to friends on the beach I was under for about 30 seconds. I ALMOST drowned in that 30 seconds and I'm a very good swimmer. I was getting slammed against the ocean floor over an over which was knocking the wind out of me causing me to suck for air. I swallowed so much salt water I ended up in the hospital for a couple days.
Dry drowning is no joke and that's beautiful that you spent that time in hospital being watched.....breathing water is dangerous, but people think if you're alive after the 'event' you'll stay alive and that's simply not true. Same as surviving smoke inhalation after a fire - go to the hospital regardless. Thank you for your comment. Glad you're still here!
Remember the exercises we had to do when we were to be trained as amphibious riflemen in Sweden. No one understood what holding the breath meant until we had to go through the exercises there.. Absolutely crazy how we can push our bodies beyond our own limits
Surfing just before Hurricane Andrew at Franklin Street in lauderdale I was held down about a minute or 3 waves. I remember making a weird noise in my chest and starting to get tunnel vision. Shit freaked me out. Didn't surf for almost a year after, and these waves were nothing compared to what Laird surfs. Hats off to these guys.
The last part of his statement says it all. I freedive now and surfed good waves when I was younger. I would never try to stay under long enough to take the next wave on my head. I have had to stay under long enough for the next wave to pass, but that 20 seconds feels like a lifetime compared to the 3min I can stay under today while freediving.
3-5 minute breath hold for the average person is really optimistic. I'd say the average person has maybe 1-2 minutes in them after teaching them to relax and do a proper "breath up". Needing to breath is one of the hardest feelings to learn to fight.
When he said holding your breath under a big wave is a problem. I had it hapoen to me. I was young and swam out into the ocean a little further than i should've done. And then i started to swim back in. And with no warning i was pushed around ten feet under the water like i was inside of a washing machine tumbling me around. I stuggled to get back up to the top and when i was totally out of breath my head popped above the water and i took a big breath gasping for air. And as soon as i got the one breath in i was knocked ten feet under again. This happened to me three times in a row and it took everything i had in me not to drown and get back to the shore. And i litterally collapsed when i got on the sand with my feet still in the water. And i just lyed there catching my breath for a few minutes feeling happy to be alive. I never swam out past the first waves ever again in my life.
1997 big point break 10 ft heavy 12 ft sets ..didnt make bottom turn first of set Held down scratch for surface hit with second ...then a third washing machined out of air looked up saw light dont remember anything after that pulled out by 2 others resuscitated on beach out for 3 minutes ...still here ....usually take last wave of big sets now when i can .No one like Laird .
It’s true you can, I’m 270 smoke and drink the whole nine. But I always practiced holding my breath for fun under the water. All about keeping calm I can easily get into 3 but not much further
Timing I can only do 30 seconds but one time while surfing in Hawaii (I was 13) my leash caught on the reef. I could get my hands out of the water I was so close to the surface... I was under for 3 waves and about to pass out when the fourth one undid the Velcro the rest of the way (from me trying to undo it on my ankle while getting slammed in 7' of water) another time I went over the falls and hit the reef hard making me release all my air. I rushed to the surface and got half a breath before getting hit by the next wave throwing me into the washing machine... I breathed in water and my lungs were burning, I got up and took a whole breathe but immediately puked up saltwater and got hit by another wave, and out of breath but having my bearings I held the reef with my lungs burning until the wave passed. I came to the surface one more time and took a full breath and I passed out as the wave went over me and I felt myself go limp as I entered the washing machine again and everything went black... I literally woke up on the Beach and unable to breathe I threw my stomach on a big rock and puked up sea water, I did it one more time before waking up again in a circle of people with two paramedics saying I'm fine... You really never know how long you can hold out until you have to ❤
Ive been held down by waves before while surfing. I was pushed onto my back all the way down to the ocean floor about 15 feet. It was absolutely terrifying. The power of the wave freezes you in place, your ears pop, cant do a thing until it releases you and you get the chance to scramble to the surface. Better do it quick because the next one is 15-20 seconds behind that one. Laird is a true Waterman. Hes garnered the respect of Hawaiians despite being an haole from the mainland.
The amount of times as a kid.. when you duck dive a bit too late and a bit too shallow and you get sucked back into the washing machine. I swear by the age of 15 I had thought I was going to die at least 20 times 😂😂
I’ve been shot at , I’ve beeeen in insane car wrecks , I’ve done deals in very very bad areas with very crazy people .. iiiive been to prison and jail many times . On big waves in the ocean. Hurricane Sandy , was the closest to death I’ve ever been and probably the only time I’ve truly been scared as an adult . :)
My favorite is when it slabs you into the sand hard enough to dislocate your shoulder and you have to dodge the incoming ones trying to make it to shore with one arm. Good times
He's right. Paddling is full on cardio. Your oxygen is spent even before the wave takes you with it. Some people panic, and lose direction. You're swimming down instead of up. Finally surfaced for air. Oh, shit! Here comes another wave.
Can confirm. I wiped out on a pretty gnarly wave and was under for a while. Felt like forever. My lungs were burning. I was worried i was gonna inhale water. Thought I was gonna drown. Luckily i also freedive and was able to fight through it and relax. I reviewed the go pro footage........ it was 12 seconds.
I was 14 years old in Dominican Republic. Beach had a black flags flying meaning no swimming. But as two family tourists oblivious, didn't mean much and no swim guards near to set us straight. Me and friend ran into the 15 ft swells and massive undertow. After playing with first two waves....The ocean HAD US. We both barely survived ending up on the sand choking up water a half mile down the beach. And we were trained swimmers. Getting tossed into corral reef and sea floor over and over...Most won't survive.
When I was doing my swim lessons when I was like 12 or 13 we used to see how long we can hold our breath and I think the longest I ever held my breath was 45 seconds at the bottom of the pool now I’m asthmatic so it could be better but I mean it was still the best in the group and I was happy
Been held under with my leash wrapped around a reef head in 12’ surf. Felt like forever and almost gave up. Never considered my life choices as much as in that moment.
It’s a bad feeling coming up from being held down only to barely have enough time to suck in a second breath before the second wave comes down on you. Especially if you hit the reef and bruise yourself up
“So far long enough…” That’s one of the best answers I’ve heard to any question. 🤣🤣🤣
Truth Is king. And the king overruns all.
It's the answer of a seasoned professional. Showed a lot of knowledge, skill, and humility through that short response.
All the comments are the same. The same comment I was gonna make to comment on his comments.
@@SteveRoney-rz8yg Yo, dawg, I heard you like making comments...
I'm gonna comment your comment so I can comment on your comment while commenting about your comments.
Anybody’s answer
Context is so important. He gave two situations on each end of the holding breath spectrum. Beautiful answer ❤️
Laird is a legend. So far long enough 😂.
Yeah I remember watching him ski into first giant wave unbelievable water man
My man
Bodysurfing in big waves, being down for 8 seconds feels like an eternity. Quite literally feels like you're pinned by the water
Agreed. 100%. A while back, total rookie season, down at the Wedge in Newport, I got held down by a large set of three waves. Probably holding my breath 15-20 seconds in literal panic mode (heart racing) for three waves in a row. And having literally 2 seconds to surface, exhale and inhale before he next wave crushed me. Almost died. As Laird said, it’s about being as relaxed as possible given the circumstances. But that’s another story when you’re getting ragdolled under the waves and don’t know which way is up and which way is down. Brutal.
@@mirzapalmao that’s why people don’t body surf the wedge unless bro really knows what’s up. I used to go to the wedge just to watch people eat shit dude it’s brutal right there. Lots of people have hit that jetty and died or got stuck because of how quick those waves come in
@@BigPerc17 #BenDidGo
The wedge is brutal getting slamed right on the shore when i was there, but the waves were so big you wanted to keep going even though i was getting thrashed @@mirzapa
You are pinned by the water. I don't want nothing to do with it, but I tip my cap to you sir 😅
What a brilliant answer to provide the perspective and how humble and thoughtful his answer is…amazing…
My 7 year old got rolled by a huge set of waves this summer. I grabbed the back of his wetsuit and pulled him up and he was still fighting to stand up. He was struggling so hard, with his eyes closed and breath held, that it took him a couple of seconds to realize I had lifted him up out of the water. When he finally took a breath it was a panicked, desperate gasp that was more like an agonized, inhaled scream. He started to cry. That sound and the look on his face were so alarming to me I made him take a break with me to go get ice cream.
After I had a chance to think about what I had learned as a kid that might help him, I told him this same piece of advice: once the waves have got you is not the time to be scared. That’s the time to relax so you don’t burn up all your air and can figure out when to stand up. He never takes what I say without question - ever - and was really dubious about that whole idea. So, we went back in and practiced getting rolled by the biggest waves until he was comfortable with reading the pattern of incoming waves, curling into a ball, rolling in the tumble and waiting for the right moment to take a breath or stand up. I kept him at it for a while until he came up whining that he wanted to go back home because he’d gotten too much sand in his suit, which was true for me as well. I think he told me my strategy was stupid.
The next morning my wife and I were watching him in the water. It was not quite as rough, but he tried to catch a good sized wave with his boogie board and went under. You could see him get caught and rolled and he didn’t come up right away. My wife, who grew up lifeguarding, started trying to hand me her cellphone so she could go in and get him, but we saw his little head pop up, take a breath, and duck into the next wave. Then he came up, got feet under him and struggled out of the water. We were walking toward him to see if he was ok but he grabbed the board, turned around and ran back into the waves whooping like an idiot. He never even looked in our direction.
When I listened to this clip it hit me that much of my life could have been easier and perhaps more fun if I had adopted the same sort of approach I was trying to teach my kid for dealing with getting tumbled by the ocean.
Beautiful, Thank you for sharing .
I really love that you gave him advice on how to handle the danger instead of feeling that he was too young to be out there
Linking this to not fighting life when things get hard but to relax and wait for a time to breathe is absolutely beautiful. As I’m going through a divorce right now this is what I needed in my head today. Thank you
Im not reading that
@@bootleggmexican582😂
Dude is all business. No words wasted. Love dudes like this.. i just shut up and learn.
Dude always reminds me of Macgruber.
Team America 🇺🇸
Nah man, Macgruber reminds me of Laird.
CALL 911! CALL 911!!!
"Ill do it I'll fkin do it just join my team!"
Looks way more like MacGyver way more than Macgruber to me.
Hamilton is a living legend , we dont appreciate surfers enough
Beautiful way of explaining it
The way this guy thinks about the human relationship with water is brilliant. Laird just gets it in a different way.
Sometimes men just look like they’re from different era’s. This man should be this same age in 1975.
This dude looks 25 for 1975
Not true. But keep yammerin'.
@@4orrcountry pack it in snowflake
In 1975, he was 10 years old... He's 60 now... I have no idea what you're even trying to communicate.
Salt and sun
I cannot stress enough, especially after reading these comments. Laird is a legend with tons of passion but the feelings and understanding he has for water is beautiful and his relationship seems different because of how he respects it. He listens and feels in a meditative state. He even says with no ego if the ocean has you that’s not the time to fight. It can hold you calmly for 5-6 minutes or can hold you down and thrash you where it’s heroic at max heart rate for 20 seconds because he respects it.
Trying not to panic in a washing machine is hard. I hard a lot of good friends that lost their lives in water it’s not to be played with
Yup, mother earth will kill you.
I guess it’s hard if you’ve never been trained or told. Most people don’t know anything so they do the opposite of what is correct. It was one of the first lessons we ever got in surfing and in kayaking. Then, they put us in that exact situation so we could feel it.
Exactly, sad about your friends. I’ve been in it and had to tell myself relax or you’re going to die. Like he said in a big set more is coming. Alooooha
He basically said "I ain't dead yet bro, so I'm doin something right" 😂😂
That’s some REAL perspective for you!
If you paddle hard for the first wave in a big set and you miss it make sure your good at holding your breath, simple advice
Been there and I still remember the 5 or 6 worst double wave hold downs and the were all more than 25 years ago
So far long enough.Damn that's real talk!
Laird is different too say the least , much respect big wave OG
Truth! Got to be at peace but find yourself and act.
Being thrashed underwater for 30 seconds and mantaining composure is something to be confident of. Losing all spacial awareness and just enduring the beating.
I have surfed most of my life and have never been held down for 30 seconds. 15 maybe and that’s enough to start getting very concerned.
@@dwmueller76I was underwater for about 15 seconds one time at Huntington Beach on a Saturday morning and I was VERY concerned at approximately the 10 seconds mark. It definitely got my attention.
Very well thought out answers coming from direct experience
I'm a smoker and I can hold my breath for close to 2 mins at rest, easy 1 minute no bullshit. If I was under a big wave panicking, especially if I had no chance to take a big breath before I went under it's death all day. My hat goes off to these guys surfing that scale of wave 👏👏👏👏
Good job getting the point accross in this 1 short video . Thank you
Laird & Gabrielle are absolute units
Laird Hamilton should be 8x as famous as joe rogan.
A 6 ft 4 alpha male.who climbs trees to eat coconuts and could survive on an island alone for an decade. Dude is the exact definition of lengthy strength and flexibility. And one of the 2 or 3 greatest surfers ever.
Laird f in hamilton
Hard to be famous...when you hide out in Hawaii.
wouah didn't know LGBT could be so romantique ❤🫶🏼❤️
He's an absolute unit of a dude. Love that guy
I grew up in Texas. Moved to socal in 91.i was 12, 90 lbs maybe. And getting Churned by the Huntington waves was an eye opener. Thank god i had learned how to relax in that specific situation.
I was always a good swimmer my whole life. I dont fuck with rivers or the oceans. I just wont go in them.
Agreed. I'm a very competent swimmer and I dont fuck with the ocean and I only go in smaller rivers when I'm wading and fishing nowadays.
So you prefer the sea then 😅
Don’t blame you: it can get wild real quick.
@@CountMeOut33 I live next to the Susquehanna River up in PA and I'm telling you there was a 5-6 year stretch where someone died every summer in that river. A current got them and they never came back up.
As someone born and raised in the rough NorCal ocean, it comes second nature to me, a playground. But I respect your attitude about it 🫡
I’ve seen way too many who have no business getting in.
There’s tribe of nomadic people that live on the water. They literally survived on water for thousands of years. They evolved bigger spleens and other body parts and can walk on the ocean floor for 15 min
I got rag dolled last summer while boogie boarding and according to friends on the beach I was under for about 30 seconds. I ALMOST drowned in that 30 seconds and I'm a very good swimmer. I was getting slammed against the ocean floor over an over which was knocking the wind out of me causing me to suck for air. I swallowed so much salt water I ended up in the hospital for a couple days.
Dry drowning is no joke and that's beautiful that you spent that time in hospital being watched.....breathing water is dangerous, but people think if you're alive after the 'event' you'll stay alive and that's simply not true. Same as surviving smoke inhalation after a fire - go to the hospital regardless. Thank you for your comment. Glad you're still here!
I love this guy. An absolute living, legend, carries an amazing amount of humbleness and respect.
Laird Hamilton and Julian Edelman makes for some great conversations. I surf and play football. Two good dudes!
Holy neck muscles batman
He just has a small skull his neck ain't big
I only noticed because you commented, wow that’s amazing,
This guy has been a top waterman and world class athlete for 40 years
If anyone hasn’t watched Laird’s documentary, I highly suggest it on RUclips. The last scene is just pure bliss.
Remember the exercises we had to do when we were to be trained as amphibious riflemen in Sweden. No one understood what holding the breath meant until we had to go through the exercises there.. Absolutely crazy how we can push our bodies beyond our own limits
Dude...20 seconds at max heart rate is 🤯.
🌹🙌🌹📯🌹
❤❤❤❤ he’s a FOKING Legend!!!!
“So far, long enough” 😂
Same here buddy
Listening to him could make me stay away from the ocean for the rest of my life
I don't surf, but Riding Giants is one of my favorite films
Great answer dude .
Your neck though, killa streanth. Respect from Maui hi
I like how his neck and his hair are both superb waves
I met him a few times in my hometown (Lacanau-Ocean France) what a man.
That was a complete answer.
Best answer
I love how genuine he is here, just the truth, no bs, no pretending. ❤
Makes sense I can’t lie. Can tell he knows his stuff
Smartest answer to that question
Surfing just before Hurricane Andrew at Franklin Street in lauderdale I was held down about a minute or 3 waves. I remember making a weird noise in my chest and starting to get tunnel vision. Shit freaked me out. Didn't surf for almost a year after, and these waves were nothing compared to what Laird surfs. Hats off to these guys.
He's absolutely right 🫡💪🏾🧠✊🏾💯
The last part of his statement says it all. I freedive now and surfed good waves when I was younger. I would never try to stay under long enough to take the next wave on my head. I have had to stay under long enough for the next wave to pass, but that 20 seconds feels like a lifetime compared to the 3min I can stay under today while freediving.
3-5 minute breath hold for the average person is really optimistic. I'd say the average person has maybe 1-2 minutes in them after teaching them to relax and do a proper "breath up". Needing to breath is one of the hardest feelings to learn to fight.
Mr. Reese.😂 🤙🏿
Guy looks like a 80's action figure on the shelf at Zellers
What a great answer.
When he said holding your breath under a big wave is a problem. I had it hapoen to me. I was young and swam out into the ocean a little further than i should've done. And then i started to swim back in. And with no warning i was pushed around ten feet under the water like i was inside of a washing machine tumbling me around. I stuggled to get back up to the top and when i was totally out of breath my head popped above the water and i took a big breath gasping for air. And as soon as i got the one breath in i was knocked ten feet under again. This happened to me three times in a row and it took everything i had in me not to drown and get back to the shore. And i litterally collapsed when i got on the sand with my feet still in the water. And i just lyed there catching my breath for a few minutes feeling happy to be alive. I never swam out past the first waves ever again in my life.
1997 big point break 10 ft heavy 12 ft sets ..didnt make bottom turn first of set
Held down scratch for surface hit with second ...then a third washing machined out of air looked up saw light dont remember anything after that pulled out by 2 others resuscitated on beach out for 3 minutes ...still here ....usually take last wave of big sets now when i can .No one like Laird .
It’s true you can, I’m 270 smoke and drink the whole nine. But I always practiced holding my breath for fun under the water. All about keeping calm I can easily get into 3 but not much further
This dude is JACKED
Laird is the water hero.
"Long enough"
The no pun answer
Legend right there. Said fuck competition surfing and just proceeded to pioneer the art
Timing I can only do 30 seconds but one time while surfing in Hawaii (I was 13) my leash caught on the reef. I could get my hands out of the water I was so close to the surface... I was under for 3 waves and about to pass out when the fourth one undid the Velcro the rest of the way (from me trying to undo it on my ankle while getting slammed in 7' of water) another time I went over the falls and hit the reef hard making me release all my air. I rushed to the surface and got half a breath before getting hit by the next wave throwing me into the washing machine... I breathed in water and my lungs were burning, I got up and took a whole breathe but immediately puked up saltwater and got hit by another wave, and out of breath but having my bearings I held the reef with my lungs burning until the wave passed. I came to the surface one more time and took a full breath and I passed out as the wave went over me and I felt myself go limp as I entered the washing machine again and everything went black...
I literally woke up on the Beach and unable to breathe I threw my stomach on a big rock and puked up sea water, I did it one more time before waking up again in a circle of people with two paramedics saying I'm fine... You really never know how long you can hold out until you have to ❤
He's right, in a meditative state I have done 5+, but if i have to think it's waay different
When I did big wave surfing. I could in a relaxed state, hold my breath for 5min 40sec, in the breaking zone, 20 seconds feels like a life sentence.
“Burkhart, you bastard!!!”
Ive been held down by waves before while surfing. I was pushed onto my back all the way down to the ocean floor about 15 feet. It was absolutely terrifying. The power of the wave freezes you in place, your ears pop, cant do a thing until it releases you and you get the chance to scramble to the surface. Better do it quick because the next one is 15-20 seconds behind that one.
Laird is a true Waterman. Hes garnered the respect of Hawaiians despite being an haole from the mainland.
The amount of times as a kid.. when you duck dive a bit too late and a bit too shallow and you get sucked back into the washing machine. I swear by the age of 15 I had thought I was going to die at least 20 times 😂😂
I’ve been shot at , I’ve beeeen in insane car wrecks , I’ve done deals in very very bad areas with very crazy people .. iiiive been to prison and jail many times . On big waves in the ocean. Hurricane Sandy , was the closest to death I’ve ever been and probably the only time I’ve truly been scared as an adult . :)
Oh my god that’s the best answer I’ve ever heard
The ads for this pod comes from a DARK place.
My favorite is when it slabs you into the sand hard enough to dislocate your shoulder and you have to dodge the incoming ones trying to make it to shore with one arm. Good times
I started getting anxious just listening to Laird talk about this.
THE MAN IS A BEAST 👀👍🇺🇸
So far
long enough is by far the most underrated statement ever because he's still here to make that comment!!!
Im very interested in free diving for spearfishing purposes. How long can you hold your breathe while exerting yourself seems very interesting.
I remember my first proper wipe out, legit thought I was going to die, maybe 4 foot. This guys on waves 10x that.
The first big wave I ever caught surfing tumbled me, and being under the mercy of the wave truly is a humbling experience. Mother nature is scurry. 😂
Yeah he’s for real! I like him 👍
Laird is a superhuman beast!
One of my favorite Laird Hamilton answers:
Interviewer: Which on of your wife’s bikini’s is your favorite?
Laird: The one on the ground.
He's right. Paddling is full on cardio. Your oxygen is spent even before the wave takes you with it. Some people panic, and lose direction. You're swimming down instead of up. Finally surfaced for air. Oh, shit! Here comes another wave.
Can confirm. I wiped out on a pretty gnarly wave and was under for a while. Felt like forever. My lungs were burning. I was worried i was gonna inhale water. Thought I was gonna drown. Luckily i also freedive and was able to fight through it and relax. I reviewed the go pro footage........ it was 12 seconds.
This guy is legendary
He's not wrong, I've been caught on the inside on some heavy surf and I thought it was the end of me!!!!
That’s very similar to whitewater kayaking. In a combat situation divided your breath by 4
I was 14 years old in Dominican Republic. Beach had a black flags flying meaning no swimming. But as two family tourists oblivious, didn't mean much and no swim guards near to set us straight. Me and friend ran into the 15 ft swells and massive undertow. After playing with first two waves....The ocean HAD US. We both barely survived ending up on the sand choking up water a half mile down the beach. And we were trained swimmers. Getting tossed into corral reef and sea floor over and over...Most won't survive.
That’s what cool looks like dude
Long enough is the best answer
When I was doing my swim lessons when I was like 12 or 13 we used to see how long we can hold our breath and I think the longest I ever held my breath was 45 seconds at the bottom of the pool now I’m asthmatic so it could be better but I mean it was still the best in the group and I was happy
The legend Laird north shore was the best surfing movie ever
Been held under with my leash wrapped around a reef head in 12’ surf. Felt like forever and almost gave up. Never considered my life choices as much as in that moment.
Dude's got the jowls of a kimono dragon
"That's my secret Cap, I'm always holding my breath."
It’s a bad feeling coming up from being held down only to barely have enough time to suck in a second breath before the second wave comes down on you. Especially if you hit the reef and bruise yourself up
If you feel it has you - I’ve been there - relax even if you have to hear the second wave pass over you…
Look like he’s holding his breath as we speak
Nice answer
Nearly drowned in the Atlantic, it was impossible to hold my breath fighting the waves, just by luck I survived after inhaling a lot of seawater.