Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
Building R2-D2 - Part 5: Body Assembly including dome drive.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2024
- Welcome to Part 5 of my Building R2-D2 series. Today we are building the main body, fitting the utility arms and getting the dome drive working.
I'll give a few tips along the way that will hopefully save you from making some of the mistakes I've made (so far).
I'm using the Mr. Baddeley MK 3 cut version files for the body. My little Sovol SV01 with a build plate size of 280x240 was just large enough for some of these larger body files which are the biggest in this entire project. A few used up the full diagonal space on the build plate and almost all the gantry height of this printer. (300mm).
Video Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:19 Printed R2-D2 main body parts overview
2:47 Gluing the body together
5:15 Sanding R2's body
5:50 MK 3 threaded body rods
8:38 R2D2 body greebles overview
9:57 Fitting the utility arms
13:53 Fitting upper ring & drive motor
16:59 Fitting dome ring gear & lazy susan
19:09 Dome drive working
21:50 Conclusion
Links:
37mm 24Vdc 300 RPM high torque motor I used for the dome drive:
amzn.to/3A2O6fo
SyRen 10A dome motor controller I'm using:
amzn.to/3FAVKPk
2A 12 Conductor Slip Ring:
amzn.to/3fwAY8P
Crepe Natural Rubber sandpaper cleaning block:
amzn.to/3tBRcG2
3D Printer used in this R2-D2 build - Sovol SV01:
amzn.to/3dk9C4U
Making R2-D2 Video Series:
- Introduction to a DIY R2-D2 Build: • R2-D2 Build Your Own -...
- Part 1 Making the dome: • Make Your Own R2-D2 - ...
- Part 2 Painting the dome: • Painting R2-D2 - Dome ...
- Part 3 Dome lights & holoprojectors: • R2-D2 Dome Lights - Te...
- Part 4 Dome Completion: • Making R2-D2 Part 4 - ...
- Part 5 Mark 3 Body Assembly: • Building R2-D2 - Part ...
- Part 6 R2 Sound System Basics: • R2-D2 Sound System - E...
- Part 7 R2 Electronic Basics: • The Basics of R2-D2 El...
- Part 8 R2 Legs & Foot Drives: • Building R2-D2 Part 8 ...
- Part 9 Painting R2-D2: • Painting R2-D2 - Plus ...
- Part 10 Installing Electronics: • R2-D2 Build Part 10 - ...
- Conclusion to a DIY R2-D2 Build: • Making R2-D2 - Finishi...
Astromech R2 Builders Club Forum:
astromech.net/
Mr. Baddeley's Patreon Page (source for Astromech Droid 3D print files, instructions & more):
/ mrbaddeley
Hardware needed for the Baddeley MK3 3D printed R2 body (will obviously vary slightly feature & mounting methods dependent):
- 4x 5/32nd rod (threaded on ends) or (M4 threaded rod) 500mm long
- 4x 5/32nd rod (threaded on ends) or (M4 threaded rod) 370mm long
- 2.5mm steel or brass rod for making the door hinge pins (I just used some plain smooth finishing nails of the correct diameter I had in my nail bin)
- M2 (2.2mm) self tapping counter sunk screws (for doors/hinges). I used assorted set - lengths from 5mm to 8mm)
- 12x M6x35mm button head hex bolts for skirt
- 12x M6 hex nuts
- 12x M6 washers
- 4x M4x30 button head hex bolts
- 8x M4x12 button head hex bolts
- 20x M4x10 button head hex bolts
- 30x M4 square nuts
- 10x M4 hex nuts
- 3x M4 x30 counter sunk hex bolts for lazy suzan to dome fitment
- 6x M4x15 hex bolts for attaching lazy suzan to body ring
- 4x 606 ball bearings for utility arms (your call if want to use RS/sealed, or ZZ cover types)
- 2x 5mmx5mm magnets for doors if you want magnetic door catch (instructions call for one 5mm and one 3mm. I found the 3mm magnet too weak so used both 5mm (drilled 3mm door magnet hole out larger).
- magnets of your choice (if any) to secure dome to lazy susan.
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you!
Thank you for supporting RC Helicopter Fun.com & my channel which helps me keep creating content & fun projects like this. Please consider giving a thumbs up & subscribe if you enjoy the content - thank you & thanks for watching :)
Making R2-D2 Video Series:
- Introduction to a DIY R2-D2 Build: ruclips.net/video/hkkSagTsLXY/видео.html
- Part 1 Making the dome: ruclips.net/video/HaZ7ABkhwn8/видео.html
- Part 2 Painting the dome: ruclips.net/video/inoqE19ODUQ/видео.html
- Part 3 Dome lights & holoprojectors: ruclips.net/video/hDR9z1PAJSA/видео.html
- Part 4 Dome Completion: ruclips.net/video/PnjCrLlJtig/видео.html
- Part 5 Mark 3 Body Assembly: ruclips.net/video/m6VXt6VGZ3c/видео.html
- Part 6 R2 Sound System Basics: ruclips.net/video/cZ3sVYs7T9I/видео.html
- Part 7 R2 Electronic Basics: ruclips.net/video/AmUuZH3UHXg/видео.html
- Part 8 R2 Legs & Foot Drives: ruclips.net/video/PLyOKD5oAyM/видео.html
- Part 9 Painting R2-D2: ruclips.net/video/E8h0l4rHvC4/видео.html
- Part 10 Installing Electronics: ruclips.net/video/bg_tN6HCYN4/видео.html
- Conclusion to a DIY R2-D2 Build: ruclips.net/video/sIpBA6UigTQ/видео.html
John you are an extremely clever and highly knowledgeable man.
I love it!!!!
You are a boy at heart and all this shines through.
What a bloke!!!
Thanks for ALL your vids.
Pete
🙂👍
You mention something I keep trying to educate people about. Print layers and print time. People insist on printing fast. As a result they deal with high layer heights and a ton of post processing to make it look better. Let the machine do the work! Print slow get those beautiful layers that take way less time to sand, fill, prime and paint!!
Well said 👍
@@Rchelicopterfunthanks! I completed my R2 in 2009 (aluminum). I’ve been tempted to print one in PETG
It used to be that way. But these new printers, like my Bambus and neptune 4 max are insane! Printing at .16 layer height with 4 walls and 15%gyroid with a .4 nozzle. Printing 3 times faster then a .6 nozzle at 2 walls 5%infil on my old printers. . Times have changed lol
Really enjoying this R2 build. Thanks for documenting it.
Glad you enjoy it
Sanding in the snow! Makes me ashamed that I stopped working on mine when the weather turned last fall. As a matter of fact, you pretty much built your entire droid while I was on a 'break' between last year and this year. Amazing job!
I've been putting off glueing parts because I'm so nervous! haha thanks for the videos - recently found them and it's been a great help! Thanks a bunch from Vancouver, BC!!
Hi Rob - Cool, a fellow BC'er R2 builder - nice 👍 🙂. More in the series on the way, but it's slow going. I was stupid & foolish enough to think I would be finished this thing and the last video in the series would be ready for May-4th. The question I now have 4 months in, is May 4th of what year. The dome build certainly gave me a false sense of time scale. The body, legs, and feet are kicking my butt. No complaints - it's been a fun project other than all the bloody sanding 😉
Brilliant...... Really looking forward to starting this project, it's amazing how much a 3D printer can open a world of projects and expanding the hobby world beyond the imagination. From the reading I understand you can print two different length legs, pending how you want it to work or retract, you are left to your own imagination to how much you want to spend, this is one project that has no ending from what I have read. Really like the finish you have achieved on yours John, loads of hours and swearing I should imagine
🙂👍
I can 3D print this? Awwww man, now I want to make one. Thanks for sharing!
John when I started this I watched your skill on stuff I'm doing version 2 body so much to say your paints and filler I've chosen and yes it's been a adventure but getting there
Wow! Great workmanship John, it looks Fantastic so far!
Many thanks 🙂
@John Salt My pleasure always, John!
Hey fellow Canadian here! I’m building an R6 unit! I can’t wait to see your mech at shows!
Have fun!
Really like when there is an update of your project 👍🏻 Like your style of presenting it and pointing out how to avoid some mistakes. Talking about that, how will you paint the arms? When you mentioned heating up the pins it sounds like they could potentially be hard to get out?
Many thanks for taking your time to document and share this 👍🏻
@Mickael Jansson - After it's all together to confirm proper function, I will taking it all apart for priming & painting (body & legs). I won't be putting any of the body or arm greebles on of course during this process as they are only for eye candy and will all be fit (they either bolt on or are held on magnetically) after all the body & arm painting is done and fully cured. At least that's the plan...🙂
I had pretty good success heating the arm pins just so they become a little pliable to allow slight bending alignment as the utility arms are tweaked into a centering position within the arm recess before the pins cooled. Both are still able to be pulled out afterward as the pin bending is very slight. 1/32" movement out at the tip of the arm to center it in the opening would account for perhaps a couple/few thousandths of an inch of pin reshape alignment.
From day one I've been using these videos as guide to building my R2. Using a Bambu P1P printer with PLA+ for the body and PETG for legs and anything structural. To fill gaps I prefer CA glue and baking soda. Quick setting and doesn't shrink. For smoothing layer lines.... Ive been printing at .2 layer height.... I use cabinet scrapers. They do a great job of removing layer lines and smoothing joints. You can get into areas sandpaper wont reach. Quicker too.
I’m thinking about buying a p1p for this project, is the 256mm^3 build volume enough for printing all these pieces? He mentioned the files saying it needs a 300x300 build volume
I've had absolutely no problems fitting any of the pieces. You can find files that are pre-cut for smaller printers. Also the quality of the parts are amazing on the P1P. Especially when using PETG which I used for all the structural parts. And the speed is so much faster.
Thanks for the response@@asennad! I'm pretty sold on getting a P1P and starting this project in the next few weeks. Is there a specific brand PETG you recommend?
This is by far the best R2 series I have seen ! Been part of the group for ages and you have given me the confidence to start my build.
Could you do a beginners electrics guide ?
@Mrt - Thanks for the feedback. Glad you are enjoying the series and even better you'll be taking on a rewarding R2 build yourself.
As I mentioned, I'll be covering my electronic components and the basics of how it works in another video, but won't be venturing down the deep rabbit hole of beginners or droid electronics. I'm simply not qualified since this is my very first droid build as well, not to mention it's a huge & endless topic with many paths to follow. There is already so much information available after all depending on what specific electronic info you are interested in.
You've likely already seen these two droid electronic publications if you are an Astromech member, but thought I would mention them again as they are the two best beginner guides I've found to date. Both are by Rob Howdle (R2 Builders club of UK). Just search for them with Rob's name in the forums or a Google search and both PDF's come up (free to download).
1. The World of Electronics - A New Builder Guide by Rob Howdle
2. Droid Control Systems - A Beginners Guide by Rob Howdle
My R2 electronic pairings are HEAVILY influenced by the information contained in both his guides. Both top notch & easy to understand resources if you haven't got them yet.
Have fun with your build 🙂
Incredible just incredible!
Now that you have gone through the full build using 3d printed materials, I'm curious if you would ever build another one using a combination of 3d printed materials and other materials (aluminium, wood, plastic, etc).
Looks great John! Excited to see the end result. Greetings from Toronto!
Considering it turned out better than I could have hoped and is working a treat; I would build another one exactly the same way. 100% 3D printed. Why mess with what works 🙂
Hi John,
I just subscribed to your channel as I am 80% though a V2 build to make R4-G9 (I have already built R2-D2, BB-8 and WAC-47) and like watching build logs to figure out things and occasionally notice something done differently that might make something I do a bit easier. I am really enjoying your video series on R2 and like how you talk everything through. I wish I had seen your videos 6 years ago when building my first R2-D2. I started a video series myself, but soon lost interest.
Something I noticed in this video is that you printed your center leg base plate upright. From experience it is better print this piece flat for strength. Think of it like the grain in wood. It will break with the grain, less likely across the grain. I am not sure if you have or plan to reinforce the baseplate, but it would be my recommendation. If that base plate breaks you will be reenacting the scene where R2 falls face first.
Keep the videos going man. They are great.
@MetalNerd - thanks for the comments & sub. Sounds like you have the Astromech building bug big time - awesome 👍Yes, the plate was printed in a somewhat compromised orientation. Unfortunately and as I explained in the video, that was the only way I could fit it on my printer with a bed size of 280x240. I also didn't want to split it. Thanks for the heads up on the potential face plant. Perhaps I'll put in an aluminum cross brace instead of the plastic one that is in there now, or laminate the plate it with a few layers of carbon. Cheers.
Great work!!!!!
And thanks for your tips so far
Nice video John, love it :-)
Hi Michael - Wow, coming from the Jedi Master himself, that means a lot mate! Just wanted to thank you again for all you do for the Droid building community. Your tireless work & time designing all these amazing prints for us to use has made many a childhood dream come true. Sincere appreciation! 👍👍🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun if you’re up for it, let’s do a recorded chat at the end of the series, love to talk through your experience and answer any questions you have.
Sounds good Michael - We might want to wait & see the finished build however. Johnny FUBAR still has many opportunities to turn this project into a train wreck 😄
Feel free to contact me on my website if/when you wish to discuss chat details: www.rchelicopterfun.com/contact.html
Cheers - john
Hey John, been following along with your build loosely and you've been a big help! I bought the same amp as you and was wondering where you got the data panel that matches up for it? Did you model that yourself?
Modded it slightly in Tinkercad from the one in the Baddely files.
Ah, awesome yeah I ended up bringing it into fusion 360 and just making it blank, going to start adding my own stuff as I plan what I'm going to be showing on my panel. Thanks!
Thanks for the information! excellent tutoring will help me a lot. I already want to make mine🙌🏽 where can I buy the files?
Hi John, love this series of videos. I have watched them all over and over I am now on to printing the body. Is this the Leon De Graaff cut?
I honestly don't remember what they were called? I just looked for the MKiii body cut version in file folder.
Love your videos! Your build has been a help along my path. However, watching your install of the utility arms, you completely gloss over the mating of the printed gear with the servo. How exactly did you do this and make it so it would last? Did you pare down a control horn hub and glue it into the center of the gear? Was epoxy used to cement it in place? Anyway, this step has me stymied.
That's because it's servo wheel/arm dependent what mounting method you use (as per the Baddeley instructions). The specific Futaba servo wheels I used glue excellent with CA as do the PLA+ gears so I glued my servo wheels into to the gears.
@@Rchelicopterfun I tried to go the glue route but it failed, so I just imported the gear I was using into tinkercad and added my own hub. Also made it a bit taller so it engages the utility arms a tad better. Thank you sir, for your brilliant build guides!
Can a builder put a camera in the radar eye and some sort of app to see where you are going? It would make for a more autonomous looking droid.
Sorry for all the questions....you say the dome motor is a 37mm 24vdc and link takes you to a 12 vdc...can't find a 300 mph 37mm 24vdc....or is this in fact a 12 v with your battery set up making it 24? Thanks John fantastic video and great build
Link is to both 12 and 24 volt options. Mine is 24v as stated.
Looking amazing, it’s Great point in your build when you see the dome on the body and moving, I’m looking to that myself. When you do a video on the electrics can you show a real in-depth look into it, as I have very little experience with electrics. what drives you going to use in the feet, I want to use a chain drive cos I’m not 100% confident about using a 3d printed drive. I love how you put all the things you use in the description too, great work 👍
@Zombiehunter115. I'll be using the 3D printed gear drives with the common E100 scooter motors (24V) - we will see if they hold up or not. The more I 3D print, the more I appreciate just how strong these parts are. Likely going with casters however over omni wheels as I hope to drive mine on rough pavement which would chew up an Omni - still deciding however - always easy to change or upgrade which is a never ending process by the sounds of it. 🙃
As for other electronic info. Have you downloaded Rob Howdle's two electronic droid guides?
1. The World of Electronics - A New Builder Guide by Rob Howdle
2. Droid Control Systems - A Beginners Guide by Rob Howdle
My R2 electronic pairings are HEAVILY influenced by the information contained in both his guides. Both top notch & easy to understand resources if you haven't got them yet.
@@Rchelicopterfun cheers yeah I’ve found the padwan 360 system when I was looking and have nearly all the parts for that, it’s just the servos I’m not sure on how they go together.
That dome looks fantastic! What blue did you use?
Sonic Blue Pearl. Exact application method, number of coats, base coat color & top coat are covered in the dome painting video: ruclips.net/video/inoqE19ODUQ/видео.html
Hello, good morning, I love your work on r2d2, it's amazing. I would like to make my own r2d2. Can you tell me where I can download the files to build it or if you could send it to me?
Link is in description
Which 606 bearings, steel or rubber bearing and any other size go with the 606?
Arms are sized for 606. 2RS or unsealed - your choice.
Hi John. You mentioned using lock nuts. Would you use them in dome not glue or does the glue weld the parts together as well?
Your Call - I used blue loctite on all my fasteners. I followed Michael's instructions pretty much to the letter.
Hey John....I love your tutorials. I have registered for the Astromech website....but my question is this....where can I find all of the files in one single package? Seems like there are hundreds of STL files and it's confusing knowing which ones to download. Can you provide me with some guidance?
All files are accessible through Michael Baddely's patron page. www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley
It's all laid out logically once you gain access to them by folder, sub folders, and sub-sub folders. Yes, there are LOTS of files and it does take time to find them and cross them off the printed droid list as you print each one; it's exactly why I like that printed droid guide so much that I mention in the very first video of this series. Even then it takes time and digging, but easy and fast compared to what is required if we had to CAD them ourselves 🙂
❤❤❤thanks just want to know what film it you use meaning to use PLA plus or what.. thank you for the videos it helps
PLA+. I cover resources & materials in the 1st video of the series: ruclips.net/video/hkkSagTsLXY/видео.html
Hey dude, love the build series! Quick question, I know you had mentioned how you had to scale the rings to fit the lazy Susan, and it was around 102% does that mean that the whole droid has to be printed at 102% or just that ring?
Only scale the gears (ring & pinion)
Awesome thank you!
Mr. John Salt where can I print off a copy of the instructions for R2D2? I will be making one for myself soon and I would love to print out an instruction packets. I absolutely love your videos and will be following your videos as I do mine.
I have links to all the print resources in the first "Getting Started" video in the series: ruclips.net/video/hkkSagTsLXY/видео.html
Hey John! I can only seem to find a 24v 200rpm gear motor or a 24v 500rpm gear motor...which one would make the most sense?
Hmm, I just searched on Amazon for "37mm 24V 300 RPM Gear Motor" and a couple came up; but I know search results will vary depending on location. Should be able to source a 300 RPM (if that's what you want) however, as they are common at robot shops and lots show up on eBay too.
Anyway, presuming for whatever reason, you are stuck with either 200 or 500, it comes down to how fast you want the dome to spin. The ring gear to pinion gear ratio is 8.2:1. So a 200RPM motor will turn the dome about 24 times per minute max. The 300 I'm using produces about 36 turns per minute. A 500RPM motor would spin that sucker around 60 turns per minute (once per second). That seems too fast IMO, but of course you wouldn't have to drive it at full power.
Happy Building 🙂
So I'm now getting my utility arms wired up and I was hoping to set them to the sliders on my transmitter, they close just fine but only open about halfway.. How did you get yours to open farther? I've tried adjusting the trim but that doesn't do it..
You need to use 180 degree sweep servos, not 90 degree sweep (what most are) as stated in the video @ time index 11:26
So in the build files does it list all the servos needed for the build and where to purchase them ?
There are of course the servo size recommendations in the Baddeley manuals, but as every build is unique, servo choice & type is up to the builder; in short research is required.
Did you use supports when printing body? If so, what overhang angle.
Very few. Recommended print orientation all all parts is thoroughly covered in the printed droid guide that I reference and link to in the introduction video and is also covered in all of Mr. Baddeley's instructions for each section of the build.
Did you print the entire droid with PLA+ or did you use some other types of filament?
PLA+ for everything (other than TPU for the tires).
Hey John....quick question. I have the dome motor (24V) High Torque with Electric Micro Speed Reduction. It's measures 37mm in diameter. I am going to print the motor bracket which supports 37mm. However, I am confused on which Motor Frame to print. There are multiple sizes (13 mm or 24mm) and there there is another Motor Frame, which looks like a small block....also in 13mm or 24mm. Which Frames to I print? The instructions are not clear. I appreciate your help.
With the hundreds of printed parts on this project and that being over two years ago now, I honestly have no idea. I can barely remember what I did last week 🙃
As with a good number of the 3D files I was unsure about, I opened them in my slicer or in Tinkercad to examine them before printing to see if they were the right ones/size. That worked for me fairly well when in doubt.
awesome job just awesome john im not to this part yet but is your printer the same size as a eneder 3 pro thats what i have
Sorry, no idea what size the Ender's built plate is or gantry height. I mentioned in the video, the build plate on the SV01 is 280x240 with a 300mm max gantry height so if you have an Ender 3, you'll know if it's the same size. 🙂
looking great , which cut did you use for the mak3 body. there is the Prusa cut or the cut body leon de graaff
Leon
What did you do to make your back panel removeable?
The back panel is a single separate printed part, so to make it removable, I simply didn't glue it in place.
Did you have an issue where the sonic blue pearl paint caused the 3d printed objects to shrink?
Nope. No reaction whatsoever with PLA+ (applied over primer of course so the sonic blue never actually makes contact with the PLA+). But even on test parts with direct exposure, no problems.
Hello, wow it looks good. I love it. your doing a very good job on it. I wish i had one. I gave you a thumb's up. AAAAAAAAAA++++++++++ Fmom Robert in Texas wow wow wow love it.
@Robert Wioch - Thanks mate 👍
How many spools/rolls of filament did you go through ?
Covered at the beginning of part 9: ruclips.net/video/E8h0l4rHvC4/видео.html
Hi John
Could you tell me what the slip ring wires are connected too and is there a wiring diagram somewhere. I have the same slip ring as you but I don’t know how to wire it.
Please help me.
I am wiring R2 the same as you built yours.
Well you can pretty much wire them anyway you want - there is no diagram since it's totally up to the individual what wire colors they assign to any particular power or signal input/output. Each wire as you know is a different color so make up your schematic for what each wire color does and follow that schematic it on both sides of the slip ring.
For example, if you want the red wire in the slip ring to be your main +VDC power wire, then you would make sure you feed you +VDC into red on the one end of the slip ring, and then pull the +VDC power out of the red on the other that rotates.
Thanks John again for responding.
I understand that each colour of wire corresponds to each other ie red short to red long etc .
Using the DuPont connectors what do you plug it in to and what does the short plug in to., as I said I am building my electrics the same as your build, i found it cheaper and easy to get the components.
I’m in my 70s now and I am really enjoying building R2.
Thanks again John
Love your videos thank you for them . I am almost done printing my dome and have a question about body assembly i do not have a 500x500 print bed either( i have a 400x400) , everyone has said not to use CA glue and use epoxy, how has yours held up with the CA glue and would you recommend it after using it on yours ? also might you have a link on the - 30x M4 square nuts you used ?
@FIERCE WOLF There is an MK3 Cut version body file for smaller printers - it's what I used.
Without knowing what type of plastic you are using in your build, I'm totally in dark. With that said, epoxy doesn't bond well to most plastics (PLA, PETG, or ABS) unless you take the time to aggressively scarify the mating surfaces and even then, unless the surface area is large (like the ankle to leg bonding), I found it's not nearly as strong as good quality CA on PLA. Won't hurt to scarify mating surfaces when using CA either of course and I made sure to do that for every part I glued while I was sanding them. CA won't bond well to PETG regardless of surface prep. If printing with ABS, use solvent based adhesive for best results. In short, experiment with scrap prints to come to your own conclusions of best bonding methods for your particular plastic and don't listen to "everyone".
Nuts - amzn.to/3xLlFC7 (need more than 100 so get two packs or at least 150).
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you soo much for responding your feedback is greatly appreciated. The plastic i am using is PLA +/Max by CC3D ( i was very impressed by the strength of this filament) I would prefer to use the ca glue but I wanted opinions before i made a mistake in the middle of the build. thank you for the link to square nuts BTW.
@@Rchelicopterfun did you ever go over how you attached the dome or maybe i missed it you mentioned rare earth magnets?
Perfect!!!
Do u have any mods to your SV01? I have one but haven’t even used it yet. I have installed the CR touch with silicon bed spacers. And I have the glass bed as well.
Just the touch and silent board (think those come standard on the SV01 now?)
@@Rchelicopterfun yeah the SV01 pro has those standard. I’m thinking about the new SV06 plus. Bigger build plate size and it comes with a lot of upgrades
Hey what 3D printer are you using,, I'm new to 3d printing,, please let know, thanks
Stated within the first minute of the video 0:46.
Good afternoon did you use an 18 in lazy susan?
Hi James - I ordered 450mm, which some sellers reference as 18", but susan sizes regardless of what they are sold as will vary a bit. I cover this with susan sizing in part 1: ruclips.net/video/HaZ7ABkhwn8/видео.html
do you recommend splitting the body into pieces
Not sure what you're asking? If you're wondering what print file versions to choose from (200 small cut, vs. normal, vs. 500x500 large cut), I think most would recommend choosing the appropriate size files for your print bed.
@@Rchelicopterfun i saw ur body was in alot of pieces. i have a large machine. do u think it would be better to print the body in one piece
@paul viana - Yes, I would think you should print in as few pieces as your printer size allows.
John could someone commission you to build one for them?
Considering the hundreds of hours it takes to build one of these, it would be less expensive to purchase the $25K Galaxy's Edge R2. But if some one wants to pay me $30K for my labor and another 3K or so for materials; I'll give up what little free time I have for the next 6-8 months and get right into it. 😄
I don't have a 3d printer is there anyone that sells a kit that I can assemble..
The Astromech forums will answer all questions like this as I mentioned in the first video of this series. There are many build options & materials other than 3D printed.
Mate are goggles expensive over there??
Specify... Ski, VR, Welding, FPV, Other...
@@Rchelicopterfun I’m just being a smart arse and at the same time worrying about you getting that dust in your eyes.. pla in the eye is no joke man!
@Harry Bomes - I see... literally. As is always the case, it's a risk/benefit call. Guess you've never had the pleasure of attempting to wear safety glasses/goggles during a cold Canadian winter day with a dust mask on as well. Two breaths and you can't see bugger all because the googles or glasses fog up instantaneously. As I was sanding all the body filler during that shot sequence and I actually wanted to see what I was doing, the mask won out. 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun Ah good point.. I have a similar problem but it’s heat causing the steam.
Anyway, loving this series- I’m stealing a whole heap of your ideas!