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Printed R2-D2 DOME Finish Silver Painting R2 (Build Part 3)
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- Опубликовано: 16 май 2024
- 3D Printed plastic to shiny dome! That's the plan on this video. Let's do the steps and see how it turns out.
These files are from MrBaddeley Printed Droids. You can find him on facebook and even join his patreon group for the files to print a full size R2 unit and many other droids! Coz3D does not sell these files. You must be a patreon of the MrBaddeley Printed Droids group to access them.
Mr. Baddeley Patreon -www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley
Mr. Baddeley Facebook Group - groups/mrbaddeley
Dupli-Color BTY1613 Silver Met (You'll have to check your auto parts store)
Dupli-Color Sonic Blue Pearl amzn.to/4ap6Sye
Flat Black amzn.to/3UXNGD7
Upol Expert Sandable Primer 2 Gray
Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome amzn.to/4aK3Apa
Plastic Welder amzn.to/4bePFZs
Sandpaper amzn.to/4dDFL5b
![EST Gee - NEVER NEED (Feat. Selfpaid Savage) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f2cRtr52HXI/mqdefault.jpg)
Great, now I have the impulse to start a r2 project 😂, you already made me want to do a C-3PO head, just finished btw
That's what I'm here for!!! Hopefully the 3PO came out good?
@@coz3d sure did
@@papahamdrew9962 Awesome!!
You should, there’s nothing like having your own life size r2 👍
@@zombiehunter1152 unfortunately my printer is broken and might need to be replaced, I’m also in a position where I’m going to have to break from the hobby for a few months (work), and the amount of filament would be insane 😂
What a good video, I'm gonna watch other videos you have made, thanks
Awesome, thank you!
Just found your channel, glad I did. Your work looks very good, and it’s presented well in your video. Great job all around! I’ve never used spaz stix paint, just Alclad and some others. How does it hold up to being handled? Alclad needs aqua gloss or it’ll wear off, but it tones down the metallic look a bit. Ever consider doing a Vader helmet? Hint hint….. 😎
Alclad is a great product for sure! So far my spaz stix projects haven't shown any major signs of wear yet even my thermal detonator that I have handled over and over. It's surprisingly durable without a clear coat at this point.
We just built a Vader helmet about 4 months ago but didn't film it. Maybe it's time to do another and film?
Use a pliable rubber backing for your wet sanding. Your fingers press harder in some areas creating high and low areas .By using a backer you only hit the high ridges. Btw I’ve never seen wet dry 500 grit, only 400 and 600 no 500. Good video!
Good point, I actually do use a 3M backer pad most of the time but didn't in this video. Good catch.
Try gloss black before silver, skip the clear.
I have never cared for the cure time of gloss black. You're right though, but I prefer being able to spray on flat black and the gloss coat in the same day and having it fully cured by the next morning at most. The problem with gloss black is that I have never found a good gloss that cures fully in 24 hours.
Recommendations?
as far as comparing the rub n buff look and the silver metallic on it's own... do you think that it look roughly the same? As far as i can tell after your silver metallic part it seems pretty metallic to me....
There is a difference. It probably doesn’t show on camera. The metallic paint does look like paint and does the job but the rub n buff really does step it up a notch. I’m a huge fan of the rub n buff. Try it on a test piece and see what you think.
@@coz3d i am not a fan of rub n buff because it tends to "rub off" > I haave said many times over that R2's dome should not look like chrome paint but seeing that it is almost impossible to replicate the "proper" polished aluminium look, then i was thinking of going chrome and then tone it down with weathering... i have been looking at some chome rattle can tests and the duplicolor chrome high gloss looks very promising in many respects and i think you might be able to clear coat that one.
i have tried some alclad paints, the airbrushing kind and at least for me the results were awful, hard to put on with an airbrush and not durable at all and it would cost a fortune to do a dome... maybe duralumen but then again, not sure....
Would you be willing to share what size compressor are you using with that gun. It looks like the small one at Harbor Freight.
Actually it's a Dewalt 30 gallon compressor but I use a regulator to drop the pressure for the gun to around 15 to 20 PSI
Thank you for taking the time to reply 👍🏼
With all due respect.
Acetone is extremely dangerous to your lungs so that whole glazing putty mixed with acetone is kind of not the best way to go about this, unless you have the place to do it and safety equipment to do this and i have been told that the stuff can crack over time as it is made to fix small imperfections and not full repair jobs which is the job of Bondo. I think and i could be wrong that Bondo contains some fiberous material which helps adhere to a ton of surfaces and is durable.. Not sure if glazing putty is done in the same way. Only time will tell if this acetone method holds up. Personally i would not do it. I'd rather bondo and sand down and know that i would be completely safe for a loooong time.
Rub n buff is the go to for most people doing their dome but they are forgetting that it is a metal wax that can "rub off" especially if you go to cons. You cannot clear coat rub n buff. It looks awesome but yes it does also show the imperfections so it's not forgiving in that aspect.
I was thinking of going with a paint on solution like you did or the graphite powder solution which apparently you can coat. Graphite powder produces results even better than rub n buff but a lot of people do not know about this process. They use it for helmets and mando armor but strangely not that much for artoo's parts.
Painting the silver on the dome could be the way to go, but then you have to buy model kit paints and there is a vast amount of paints that will give you different results. You are not looking for a chrome effect you are looking more at a used Stainless steel effect. Paint on aluminum is a hit or miss it looks great but is always missing that little shine that it needs. Barbatos rex has good videos on paints that can be used on this project.
But to each his own... if you achieve the results you need, then this is all that counts.
Yes, you are exactly right, acetone can be bad on your lungs. I always recommend a well ventilated area when using it and even a mask if you're in a smaller space. Bondo can also be bad if not in a well ventilated area as well. Always protect those lungs!
The Bondo glazing is not meant to re-build parts by any means. The best way to to use it is to do a thin coat to simply smooth away those print lines after you have already sanded an item and eliminated most of the print lines to begin with. I have used it on many many projects at this point and have never had a cracking issue yet over the course of almost 20 years unless you damage a part by dropping it or something catastrophic.
Rub n buff is great, but you're right, it can dull over time and has be re-applied. My rub n buff dome was finished in 2020 and at the last con in 2024 it does show signs of wear but is still is in good shape even after all the hands that touch it surprisingly.
The only problem I have with normal chrome spray paints is that it still looks like paint. Alumiluster is a great product to use in place of spaz stix but I wanted to test spaz on this project.
@@brunobernier8870 I have not tested many of the alclads. I might be ordering some this week now though. I'll have to check out Barbatos and see what he's doing too. Thanks for the info!
@@coz3d search for those:
Barbatos Rex ( his channel name)
Testing 6 Different Alclad Metal Colors
Testing 2 More ALCLAD Colors - Stainless Steel & High Speed Silver
How enormously important for the planet and the future of mankind.
3D printing next years landfill, while children starve.
I have made many of my projects in the last 5+ years and consider them some of the treasures of my collection. I'm sorry you haven't had the same experience.
@@coz3d Yes. You are indeed sorry.
Share what you have done to fix the problem or STFU.