You have the best links to tools than any other videos. Most reviewers in all videos say the cheap tool that was recommended did not work, but this seems worth the extra money and is great quality. Sorry that your truck had the ports in difficult to see places, the Japanese cars have much easier access. Also thank you for pointing out that there are two common sizes, standard and JRA...not easy to figure out which type a certain car has. Thank you ! thank you. You do the job right!
Thanks. I thought I was out of luck, I hate the thought of losing the refrigerant as I replace the stuck Schrader value. Then, I took a chance on finding the solution on RUclips. Just purchased a removal tool on eBay. Again, thanks
Except that your system will be low now,due to the leaking valve, and the only way to recharge it is by removing the rest because you don’t know how much leaked out
Thanks man for this video as I need to change out a leaking valve on my high pressure port on my ac and I don't want to drain the entire system of refrigerant and I just bought the tool with a box new schrader valves. 👍🏻🇦🇺
The price of the tool kit is way higher then renting the vacuum pump and gauges from autozone(they let you buy it and return it with no extra charge as a rental deal). All you need to do is evacuate the system the way 99procent of dyi does ;) replace the valve(4- 12$) recharge the system 20-50$. The knowledge is on youtube. This video is probably good for the mechanic shop.
If you have refrigerant in the system already it will need recovered. This kit prevents the need to recover the system. Service ports tend to leak after a connecting gauges as will. So if you just charged the system and removed the gauges and then service ports are leaking you can replace the valve cores without recovering and recharging
Good stuff. Good luck to your channel. Last charge on '05 Toyota I added dye and it seems to be on the valves. Not sure what type it takes but I'll try to find out. Thanks again.
Nice job... and helpful video.... right tools always come in handy, but I wonder if most people have all ready lost their refrigerant and can just either tighten their Schrader valves or replace them and recharge ?
Jon Randall if you have 0 pressure in the system them you would replace the Schrader valve but you would have to re evacuate the system (pull under vaccumm). This tool is for when you still have some pressure. Even if it's only 10psi you won't have to recover what's left and then evacuate the system before recharging. With this tool you replace the valve then simply top off the charge and your ready to go
No sir. Those require the use of a special socket. You can try quickly depressing the ball. Sometimes you can get them to reseal when they snap back into place
@@kdautomotive1165 Thanks, good to know. I was hoping not to drain the system of freon. Mine blew the top of the rubber ball off and I lost most pressure after releasing the high side adapter on my manifold gauges. The only thing holding pressure is the cap at this point. This was right after I recharged the system as well, talk about a bummer.
@@atola5349 another tip is when you attach your gauges dont run them all the way in. As soon as you see pressure 3your gauge go 1/4 turn more and stop. Running them all the way in can damage the valve
My 1998 Chevy high side ball valve also leaks. My solution was to get a metric metal plug with the same thread as the plastic cap and seal the leak by installing the plug with teflon tape. The plug had a female hex drive.
@@kdautomotive1165 Not sure about your answer. Does the Cap hold the pressure? Or leaking Valve may completely empty the system even if Cap seals a Valve? thanks ...
@@panamerykan9262 the cap is a back up for small slow leaks. If the oring on the valve is bad or the needle is bent the cap will not be able to seal full system pressure and it will empty
@@panamerykan9262 I can tell you how my old valve core (a JRA High Flow one) failed. The little spring on the top lost tension (likely from heat cycling, because it was mounted on a suction line, and it's subject to both the engine bay heat and the suction line cold). I screwed it on a piece of plastic tubing and blowed through it, and noticed that the valve core opened as soon as you wiggled it around. While it's supposed to stay closed all the time (have a lot of bicycle Schrader cores laying about, and the spring feels rock hard). They eventually go bad, your best bet is to get new ones and replace them IMHO
Their are different size valves. This set covers them all. You have to make sure the adapter you are using is larger enough for the valve you are servicing
Thank you for responding ... got it removed but it wouldn't slide out. it is a 1996 F150. Is there an application chart somewhere about size tool/replacement valve?
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Excellent video, great job of describing the steps and demonstration without wasting time on stupid long introduction video / music.
You have the best links to tools than any other videos. Most reviewers in all videos say the cheap tool that was recommended did not work, but this seems worth the extra money and is great quality. Sorry that your truck had the ports in difficult to see places, the Japanese cars have much easier access. Also thank you for pointing out that there are two common sizes, standard and JRA...not easy to figure out which type a certain car has. Thank you ! thank you. You do the job right!
This is awesome! Thanks for making this video. I had no clue this tool was even a thing until seeing this video.
this just saved me over $200 from what the shop wanted to charge me ! Great channel !
Now you can take the $200 and buy the tools
Thanks. I thought I was out of luck, I hate the thought of losing the refrigerant as I replace the stuck Schrader value. Then, I took a chance on finding the solution on RUclips. Just purchased a removal tool on eBay. Again, thanks
Except that your system will be low now,due to the leaking valve, and the only way to recharge it is by removing the rest because you don’t know how much leaked out
Thanks man for this video as I need to change out a leaking valve on my high pressure port on my ac and I don't want to drain the entire system of refrigerant and I just bought the tool with a box new schrader valves. 👍🏻🇦🇺
The price of the tool kit is way higher then renting the vacuum pump and gauges from autozone(they let you buy it and return it with no extra charge as a rental deal). All you need to do is evacuate the system the way 99procent of dyi does ;) replace the valve(4- 12$) recharge the system 20-50$. The knowledge is on youtube. This video is probably good for the mechanic shop.
If you have refrigerant in the system already it will need recovered. This kit prevents the need to recover the system. Service ports tend to leak after a connecting gauges as will. So if you just charged the system and removed the gauges and then service ports are leaking you can replace the valve cores without recovering and recharging
Nice Job my friend. Thanks for the lesson.
Good stuff. Good luck to your channel. Last charge on '05 Toyota I added dye and it seems to be on the valves. Not sure what type it takes but I'll try to find out. Thanks again.
Thank you for posting this, you helped me out big time
What holds the valve to the tool. Is there a magnet?
Learn something new everyday Awesome Video
You are a life saver!! Thank you!
Thank you so much. I did not know that was possible.
Nice job... and helpful video.... right tools always come in handy, but I wonder if most people have all ready lost their refrigerant and can just either tighten their Schrader valves or replace them and recharge ?
Jon Randall if you have 0 pressure in the system them you would replace the Schrader valve but you would have to re evacuate the system (pull under vaccumm). This tool is for when you still have some pressure. Even if it's only 10psi you won't have to recover what's left and then evacuate the system before recharging. With this tool you replace the valve then simply top off the charge and your ready to go
Only question I have is this an option for the GM ball style valves on the high side ports? Knowledge is power, great video.
No sir. Those require the use of a special socket. You can try quickly depressing the ball. Sometimes you can get them to reseal when they snap back into place
@@kdautomotive1165 Thanks, good to know. I was hoping not to drain the system of freon. Mine blew the top of the rubber ball off and I lost most pressure after releasing the high side adapter on my manifold gauges. The only thing holding pressure is the cap at this point. This was right after I recharged the system as well, talk about a bummer.
@@atola5349 another tip is when you attach your gauges dont run them all the way in. As soon as you see pressure 3your gauge go 1/4 turn more and stop. Running them all the way in can damage the valve
My 1998 Chevy high side ball valve also leaks. My solution was to get a metric metal plug with the same thread as the plastic cap and seal the leak by installing the plug with teflon tape. The plug had a female hex drive.
Can you do one on adding dye and what tools to check for leaks
Don’t use the dye, get a cheap sniffer
Nice job great video👍👍👍👍👏🏻
Thanks for the video. Didn't know this was possible.
D Cloes it's the best way to fix the leak. Any time you can avoid opening the system to atmospheric air is the best route to take
Great demo and job !
How do you know what type value your truck uses?
Goes by thr refrigerant so r134a has 2sizes (one of each) and r12 a different size and so on
The valves on my car refuse to come out I broke two snap on valve core removal tool I'm starting to wonder if this will fare any better
biofall38 they may be reverse thread
KD Automotive I didn't even know they did that on Schrader valves but it's worth a shot
any luck? Were they reversed?
after braking more tools i dident get it to budge so i wound up buying a new hose
@@biofall38 Very weird, there's a small rubber washer on the core and the refrigerant oil keeps everything lubed up
Out of curiosity, can a leaking valve core completely empty a system even when the gasketed cap is tightly fitted on the port with the leaking core?
Yes. That cap is a secondary seal but can always hold the pressure
@@kdautomotive1165 Not sure about your answer. Does the Cap hold the pressure? Or leaking Valve may completely empty the system even if Cap seals a Valve? thanks ...
@@panamerykan9262 the cap is a back up for small slow leaks. If the oring on the valve is bad or the needle is bent the cap will not be able to seal full system pressure and it will empty
@@kdautomotive1165 I appreciate your prompt clarification! as NOW I am trying to fix a small leak (my finger on the top of the Valve can stop it).
@@panamerykan9262 I can tell you how my old valve core (a JRA High Flow one) failed. The little spring on the top lost tension (likely from heat cycling, because it was mounted on a suction line, and it's subject to both the engine bay heat and the suction line cold). I screwed it on a piece of plastic tubing and blowed through it, and noticed that the valve core opened as soon as you wiggled it around. While it's supposed to stay closed all the time (have a lot of bicycle Schrader cores laying about, and the spring feels rock hard). They eventually go bad, your best bet is to get new ones and replace them IMHO
Good demonstration. Thanks.
Liked and subscribed, good luck with your channel and thanks!
Cool so it's like one of those submarine hatches!
Do valves leak on there own or is a indicator of a more significant issue causing them to leak?
They can leak on their own but they usually leak after someone has hooked up gauges
Is it possible to do this when there is a piece of shit GM ball valve on the line that is bad?
It is not
I believe you can ultimately replace it with a Schrader valve, look into it
If my valve is leaking, should I just try to tighten it or replace it?
You can try to tighten it. If that doesn't work you will need to replace it
Well done. Thank you
I can’t get mine to come loose, can I spray wd40 in there?
Yeah try using compressed air to blow any dirt out aswell
Great video !
well done and thank you!
That’s a cool tool
Genius
Thanks you 🤙
I tried a tool like that ... the valve would not come out after I unscrewed it.
Their are different size valves. This set covers them all. You have to make sure the adapter you are using is larger enough for the valve you are servicing
Thank you for responding ... got it removed but it wouldn't slide out. it is a 1996 F150. Is there an application chart somewhere about size tool/replacement valve?
@@garypatton9720 not that I know of. You can look on rockauto or other parts website and see what size valve core is listed.
Ford says a YF2198 is correct for the low side. I just don't want to buy the tool again and have the valve not come out.
@@garypatton9720 this kit shown covers all styles of valves. The smaller 2 pc set only works on standard style valves
Just do it really fast
And get serious frost burn
Ya and hope your eyes don’ get sprayed - that is a bad idea